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J I
lEi Of Interest to Maid and Matron I
f?rR- EDITED BY tfU JgSd
B I ST
when women arc making
m T reS a stir in tbe world with
lJ , ' ,iu i.. nun-
jET-c V .' 1 "ii-i'l'Tniii'ii in i
fails .1- ll
cludiug polities, they are
eatentd with the return of IOC bus;!.
wful analysis produces no reason why
! wearing "t" fin-ti-s ' y i" n.'...
flairs of moment should seem iocon-
unions, and yet it Is difficult to isualizc
S among tue posaibiliti -s if the future
i uatioD.il convention for the nomination
' Presidential candidate, for instance,
i which the delegates were attired in
bustles. Neither would a jury (.quipped
with these appendage scein altogether
tilted to interpret the majesty of the law,
and if the bustk- is accepted and incor
porated in th attire f.r next spring ear
uewt adTOCfltCS of the cause are already
remarking on what on eTfraordinary ap
pearanee the annual sulTrage-tt'- parade
will present. The suflraiettes as a party
resent the bUStlC, however, nnd they will
do all that they poibly can to prevent
its return to power
There can be no doubt that many of the
newest rrKtiiuirs are draped In a fashion
that i morfl menai inu t those who hops
higher and better thin? of their sister
women. In one of tin very latest of the
j Parisian designs the bustle is all hut pres
lent Only the material is used to create
'this effect, 'nit it Is so draped that were
'one to look at the cos hi DC without con
sidering its structure one would ho sure
that some artificial means to extend the
.costume in this direction had been used.
! In fact, the material, which is of thick
jsilk, is laid in heavy folds whi'h mish:
otherwise be accounted i-lumsy. with the
express object of creating the effect of
actual padding.
For weeks fashion experts who follow
: the lines of the new modes carefully have
bMn predicting what seems now to be
ion the very verge of happening-the re
turn of the hustle When the very first
, draped sash appeared, with the short
thick loops that somewhat distorted the j
line of the back, these experts smiled BDd
: shook their heads knowingly and mnt-
lereil. 'The bustle is coming back in1
: time."
Until then, for almost a year, the flat-'
Iter aud straighler the line of the back
jfrom the nock to the fool of the skirt the
j smarter the garment was considered and
th" more perfect the silhouette. Women
submitted to all sorts of uncomfortable!
corseting in order to attain this effect.
ami the dressmaker who could tit his
I client w ith a costume absolutely curvc
less iu the back was regarded as the prince
I of his profession
j After the sash with loops had inter
rupted this long drink of water kiud of
!an outline there appeared also a good deal
of back drapery, which wandered around
! in various places aud seemed to have an
increasing tendency to concentrate itself
j toward i he back.
Then came another era in fashion. The
pannier appeared!
It was startling, it was not always be
coming, but tt had to be. Every one was
j thoroughly tired of the old straight up,
land down frocks which had been fash
ionable for so long. They gasped at the
! pannier, but none the less they went se
cretly to their dressmakers and ordered
them and that. too. after they had in
formed all of their nearest friends that
I they con-sidered the fashion perfectly i
hideous and were sure that it never would
go in America.
hen the pannier arrived the fashion
experts were even more sure that the
bustle is something w: can't escape.
"It's got to come now." declared one
! such professor of the art of dress, "per-
I
America Adopts the "Cup That Cheers,"
England Forsakes It
BT'rr'v' niii:" Instill
paSs transplanted from the
i Hd World to the New .
; afternoon ten drinking
-Tf? promises to become all
pSySSfoSrts iic morc nourishing her
ss it loses prestige in the
d that has so Ion; cherished it as one
Its most distiii' live institutions,
fbe news that the King and Queen of
gland arc ouiitiiug afternoon tea Is
lost as much of a shock to the true
Worn -led IJrituii as arc Lloyd George's
u ranee projects. It is solemnly report
that when their Majesties recently
llted Wales tbey refused to accept the
i proffered them by the wife of a collier,
King remarking that he Idoiu look
j. Even more noteworthy was the iu
jent of the King, Queen and Princess
m- spending the time irotn half-past
tc iu the afternoon until five looking
the auiuials in the Zoological Garden;
Lfacui stopping for tea. t'ancj !
Pbemipou a well known ud evidently
I physician hastened to defend the
pi pusiliou, asserting that able-bodied
Sons did not need afternoon tea. Three
I meals- a In-arty breakfast, a light
eheoo nud u live or six course diuuer
j ample for the average niau or woman,
hoisted.
,f, however, one feels thai be cauuo
go the tea, says the same doctor, i:
tuhl be used onlj as a refresher a eup
lea, v. uli a biscuit or a piece of bread
9 hull' r.
Co Bit
nd aud butter, juin, cake au I pastry
I holds to be altogi ther wroug. To
le .i mtai of afternoon tea is excusable
j iu youug cuiidxiui and old pen at
I
I
who reriiire an extra amount of nutri
nent.
CUiienj of the T'nited States have the
advantage of having taken their afternoon
lea lightly. They have uot bowed down
I lK?forc it nor set it up as a thing of su
. preiue importance. Neither have tbey
j guunuandized nor made themselves de
pendent Upqo this meal. Yet they like it.
and as a pleasurable fuuetlou it is gaming
I ground.
j Ten years ugo there was not a tea room
in New lork. Now there are scores
'.Men were very shy about entering tbein'
.a Brst, but a man no longer apologises
I for his presence in the tea shop. Thill he i
j is not more frequently there is because,
lor the most part, he is loo busy for that:
lor any oilier daytime pleasure except Id'
portent events, like basc-bal. games.
The lea room has an air ol grace and
' Harmony, though, that appeals strongly to
WOnieO. Moreover ll generally has at
tractive adjuncts antiques, home made
!.ookcry or hand sewed articles for sale.
so thai uu" iuj combine a little shopping
with an hour's test aud a cup ut lea.
Such formal divisions as the "plain lea
snd the "complete tea' arc uoi known in j
tin. Lulled States. Tea has uot crystal-1
Luu d mto anything absolutely definite and
unchangeable- li abodes off irom teu into
d ixsjq diUcreut things, any oue of which
eousidc-ud appropriate to (be lea bom.
instead of lea itself, there may be coffee
r chocolate, and with these may be served
anything from a .lup sandwich to a
cream puff, ice cream and sundaes aye
favorite forms of afternoon lea.
Another i banjo Americana have made
is the serving ot lemon a a substitute for
the milk or cream winch is inevitable
with English tea. Also they like it weak,!
which is a far cry from the British taste.
The hot water pot is as important a pan
of the tea service as the teapot Itself, i
The 'eosey" which adorns the foreign tea
table is infrequently Used in America.'
Only extremists for afternoon tea as it al-
ivays has tx-i-n or persons who have a lik-;
ini for novelties add the '"eosey."
It is uot onlv In the city that the tea
room has eatabllabsq itself firmly iu the
United States Throughout the country
there are to be seen little cottages with
I rustic signs invitiug the traveller to stop'
lal "Ye Uoodg Tea Shop," aud hotel that
bear evidence that tea drinking has
spread to rural regions. Before u had
gained SUCh a foothold two city women
much addicted to lea, and lamenting tln-ir
inability to find it when they weut lor
pleasaul walks or drives, made ii vow to
ask for tea at every inn they came upon
in their wandering any time in the latci
afternoon. Tea, they found, meant ut
per to most country innkeepers and noth
ing else, nor could they be persuaded toj
g i cup of tea before supper time for
ihc uiosi importunate traveller,
The two women enlisted their frifnaV
endeavors in iheir crusade, and take credit'
to themselves for many a ti-.i room thai
has spuing up throughout the couutriside
ll i uoi only in the public lea rooms
and hotels that the growth iu populurity
of tbc leu hour is shown. It lH equally
welcomed iu the home No apartment i
o small but thai the lea table may have
B puce iu it and no house m large but that
lids cosey feature makes its appeal. It
lis a pleating adjunct to hospitality and
the tea cup saves uiuuj uu awkurd break.'
Over u copfidencea ai exchanged, its i
. OUteUtC stimulate to Jllat llie rigiil degree
tie .-pirils of those why quaff it
It is astonishing how largely the num-lo-r
ot men who are abli to find tmu. 0
drop rn for a ' up of tea in the afternoon
ihas increased Within u few years.
; The cup that cheers is loo well liked in
America to be given up. whatever Eng
land mar do.
; i
THREATENED RETURN OF I
THE BUSTLE
haps only as an at'erapt. to see how tbe
women will accept it But at least it
will have something of a try out. Some
times the French designer! have found
thai the American women would not ac
cepl what they had made up and couldn't
lx made to do so And if the French
V WWim VMUUVVVtSUMMM.
"Improve Your Waist Line," Says
the April Grandmother.
(VRACE and s nbort w aist never go
Jli iml in hand, observed the April
.Grandmother as her youngest
I granddaughter frowned it her own reflec
jtinn jn ;i pheval glass. "Von arc blaming
! our dressmaki r fi - i ! ; r fl PPSe r:i ih-f- i ii
I thai new froek, whereas she has done re
llnnrkably well for a 6gure which cau
never look prneeful long as its waist
line continues to be o short.
"No. my dear. I don't hint that you are
too plump." protested the April Grand
mother in soothing tones, "but your waist
Is square and stiff looking rather than
round and supple, and if you really are
uuxious to improve it you will do a few
of the things that you dou't like to do.
tor Instance, you will make a practice of
sitting iu uncomfortable chairs stiff, un
; cushioned seats are t i. rOIJU,j 0yry.
where ami are avoided by everybody, in-
eluding myself, but for some tjme to come
they will prove real benefactors to you
! because when resting upon one of them
your ba.-k must hold itself erectly and
your flabby, settled down waist muscles
be forced to do their just share of the
work of supporting the fipure.
' But. of course, you will practically
abandon the si g down habit." contin
ued the April Grandmother cheerfully re
gurdless of the blank expression of her
granddaughter's fuce. Schoolgirls who
are well a,,d str.-nj: should keep on their
feet two-thirds of Die time, and especially
if they are inclined to plumpness
"Instead of lounging in an easy chair
while learning the lessons to be recited
the following day and of .sprawlinjr lazily
over a low table while preparing exer
cises and essays, they should pace a room
while Studying from a book and do all of
their writing on desks as high as those
a sen by office bookkeepers Women ac
countants never have short, thick waists
or look clumsy. That is not became Na
ture has made all women bookkeepers af
ter one pattern, but because these youni;
Wag! earners are constantly Standing at
desks 4i high that when writing the rig
nr from above the hips is more or less
stretched, and that exen-ise makes the
waist line longer and more supple.
"Obviously you must nit down while
eating bre.ikfast and dinner." admitted
the April Grandmother, "but you need
hinch no more luxuriously than does the
busy bookkeeper, who sends out for a
Sandwich and an apple and munches them
while walking the length of her fenced in
enclosure and ker-ping one eye on the
face of the office c'ock The bookkeeper
osi jollsl does till- to .1VC Y tillable da -
light time and unconsciously is making r
keeping her waist long 'killing two birds
with one stone' precisely as you may do
iu regard to preparing jour lessons
"Io you ever (ry to kistrt your own
foot?" inquired the April Grandmother
suddenly, then laughed at her youngest
descendant's a niaz.-. I expression "I do
that every day not publicly, of course,
having a due regard for the proprieties
but In the privacy of my own roDi and
solely for the sake of keeping my waist
long aud ditn. First the right foot must
be rested across the left knee and then
the body must be bent straight over until
the lips touch the instep. You won't be
able to do ibi while wearing a corset, anil
it is not easy to do under any circum
stances bocntwtc the muscles thus brought
into service are seldoui used and are apt
to be stiff At tirt the exercise should
be gone through with only three tunes,
lewt the unacOUOtomed effort overstrain
the walal and hips and do more harm
than good, but each day the attempt to
touch the lips to the mslep will be easier
und after a time you will hnd yourself do
ing it :ls a matter of cour.se.
"Speaking of corsets reminds me that
there arc times and seasons for doing
without I be-m, particularly us your figure
litis been eorseted for a number ol ears
pa-t and hos depended upon au artificial
SUppOrt. The waist muscles, which have
been rendered Dabby from disuse, can only
lie toughened by being made to depend
utK.n themselves, and the time begin to
force them into activity is after they have'
bepu wearied by ihe foot kissing exer-j
cisc.
Instead of putting your corset beneath'
yuiir street costume, wear merely ii loose-j
I) tilting waist undtrr your wrap, und
tint, garbed take a long and very brisk
walk, meanwhile carry big not even thej
tiniest of purses. The hands of the girl!
Who is curing her. sell ot a hort waist
should be absolutely free, so that site may;
clasp them together or allow them to fallj
at In-r niO ll makes no diHerem,- in'
which posiliou the bunds are held so loug
as it is a uutural one that does not throw
the waist line out of plumb, but the real,
object iu walking unencumbered is toj
Force the walker to carry herself erectly
with her shoulders held squarely ami her
chest thrown forward. No form ol exer
cias Will do mors toward making the(
wnist allm, nnd as the flesh gradually
h aves the hips-as it i bound to do thej
Imj.1v from necktie to belt line Will look
many indies longer than formerly, and!
the entiie Bgore will surround itM-it ritli
thai atmosphere of nncoWioua, unstudied
grace which Is an acknowledged attribute
of the gentlewoman.
'dressmakers bring out hustle designs this
may happen to them again. But, on the i
other hand, the pannier has made a dif-1
fere nee In the attitude of everybody
toward the bustle Try thinkmj back to
the time before the appearance of the I
pnnnirr and you will remember that the
ini-i'le appeared a monstrosity, but be bon-
'ci about 't now and yon will see that
it does not seem sneh a monstrosity to
' you it seems more of a natural evolution
from the paunier "
1 When the pannier first was shown in
this country the effect was of a skirt very
wide across the hip and often rather flat
in the back; then the draperies gradually
moved further toward the hack, but they
were very low down on the skirt, and for
this reason the chance . rinsed no remark
I xeept amonz thoe who s-ni? the trend
of fashions very harply. The reason for
the change wa that as a general thing
the width aeross (he BgTirS sf.foi, uot to
I be becoming to the average t'zure. Only
a very tall woman looked well with these
wide panniers, or else a particularly slight
; figure, very delicate and doll-like.
, But when the drapery was pulled low
lard the back it proved to be infinitely
more fetehing for most of those who tried
on these panniered skirts. Instead of the
rather stately and matronly look which
I the simple panniers were apt to give, the
.pulling of the drapery toward the back
I made the garment seem chic, daring nnd
j youthful. It was natural that this effect
should be further exaggerated, and then
all that was necessary was to shorten
this back drapery a trifle, bunch it up
more and there yon have if. The bustle
is more than suggested. All that is need
ed is a half way warm welcome and it
will surely make its home among us oDce
again.
It used to bo that a slender waist ae
! companies the bustle, so that the wearer
presented a ewunfike appearance that
was extraordinary, but lo one catholic In
taste uot ungraceful. Women nowadays
have grown accustomed to be free of
I compressing bonds around the waist.
1 There is very little lacing nowadays and
the desired silhouette hHs favored this
Civing of free play to natural develop
ment, provided, of course, the woman is
slender. It is predicted that with the re
turn of the bustle, should that catastroph.
befall, there will also he a return to the
t'.rmer ideal, of a nineteen Inch waist.
"But then' suggested a fashionable
lr.ss10k,r w.,on thjs postji(jifv wm
called to her attention, ' you must remem
hef that a return to small waists was
"Jreotened two years ago. but the women
wouldn't submit toil. They have lea rue,)
that a. a whole their figures look more
I-"'I'T and stippl,, (hc w.aist u not
Unduly compressed and therefore they
rill not lace their wgjatg They do every
thing else in the world to get s'ieuder. but
"'' want it to I. rt.al sionderness. ac
companied w'"' grace. Thev an-n t
content any longer t0 be stiff. " stuffed
tooldllf objects with bulging hips. ,r
gioea waists nnd not a sinuous possibility
-jvwneri Sbont them. 8o dUmlsa the
Me. that they will have to go in for .ten
der waists if they arc- going to wear
0 bustle. They won't. What they'll
JO is simply to adapt the bustle to the
Ideua i of true sionderness and suppleness
WIIICU they have acquired.
"And don't." cautioned the modUte
condemn the bustle without a hearing.
I iBr aal
i I;
Kverybody makes a Joke of it as if there
wasn't a word to say for its attractive
ness. Yet great painters have painted the
bustle costume Whistler. Alfred Ste
vens and over so many others and any
one must admit that some of these pict
ures, painted by men who were learned in
'
the lines of beauty, are extremely attrac- H
tivc. Indeed, I regard the bustle cos
tunic, with that line of the back which is
so chic, so attractively artificial, as one
of the smartest and most taking that
women have ever worn. I think it has H
the piquant quality more than any other.'' H
Pure White Lights a Menace to Babies I
BY JAMES J WALSH. M. D.
ATTENTION has been called re
cently to the fact that while light
being decidedly Irritating in Its
effects on human beings the usual
custom of surrounding little chil
dren with surfaces that constantly
reflect white light cannot help but be a
source of peevishness and irritation. It
Is probable that there is much more In this
suggestion than there might seem to be
ut first thought, uud that an exaggerated
effort to produce and maintain a set of
conditions eminent lj faiorabie to the child
from one point of view has unfortunately
led to another extreme that is distinctly
unfavorable for it.
(Volte i thr symbol of cleanliness, which
i a most iuiporiaui factor in the preserva
tion of health for the child. This is
particularly true during the summer
time, and as tbe slightest spot can be
seea uu whits garments the uu of white
became a custom and now is a iraditiou.
rollowiuj; this idea there uaturally came
the us of while hangings arouud tbe crib
und white decorations iu the nursery.
Phs consequence is thai chiidreu uu
bavc their eyes assailed by the reflection
of white light at every point lo whuh
they mm. Uvea aduiis cau reeiiae how
. mating ibis may become after a Hue
Wbi-u the child goes out Ills pcrauibulalo.
often is while, he is covered by u white
parasol and everything near him is absti
lately white.
Some years ago it was the CUs'tOOD to in
sist ihui light was an sgtreiuely important
therapeutic measure aud that ihe more
iih-bi there was the beiier. Light i- prob
ably the best bactericide that we buve,
for there are practically no germs of dis
cuses, however xiruleut, thai will stand
exposure to sunlight for more ihau a few
hours. This power of the suu 10 brinj
about ihe destruction of liv.ug germ. hiut.-(
at the i-ossiijiiity, however, of its produc
ing deleterious effects upon living cells of
all kinds when they are continuously ex
posed to its influence. 'Die external cells
of the body arc rapidly killed by sunlight
unless there is a considerable pigmentary
deposit to protect them. Observation
shows, moreover, that the deleterious ef
fects of sunlight penetrate more deeply
and enn be noted particularly iu the
nerious system
When our I'niled States soldiers weui
to the Philippines expo ire to sunlight
was found to be an extremely importan.
fuctor in the production of ever so man.'
more cases of severe nervous and menta
troubles umong the ofllcers and men that,
had been the rule while they were here nt
home. Major Woodruff, of the Medical
Corps of the United States Army, called
particular attention to the s rious effects
of sunlight- He insisted that some of ihe
overstrenuous life of Americans, exhaust
ing our vitality prematurely. due to
the fact that a lurge part of the inhabi
tants of this country came from the blond
race of Northern Europe, unaccustomed
to llviug in ns much sunlight us are have
m this country and unprotected by the
deposit of pigment in the sain arnica iam
Inhubitanls of the southern countries of
BSurope possess n a consequence of many
generations of living iu sunlight.
D4Ually it is forgotlcu that New Vork
is iu the laiuude oi Naples, while Ite-j
land .aid Germany are more nearly on the
latitude of Labrador aud that the dif-'
fereuce in the amount of smilight in lhc(
two regions is very marked. Major
Wobdrufl goes as far a to prophecy Ihe
gradual disappearance of the blond
races from this country as a consequence
of the effect of sunlight
Anyone who Ims ever tried lo work'
silling Hi trout of a Wouduw tuto which
light is reflected from white waH knows
how tiresome it becomes, not alone for I in
cision but for the general uervous iyati in
There ure lired eyes, but also there is u
sense of irritability developed and a feel
ing of exhaustion thai makes long hours'
of work impossible. .Men who Ita've to,
vrow practicollx iiavaOt sahrCI perfectly
j w hile surroundings, even though there is
no absolute knowledge in the matter and H
instinct is the only guide. The neutral
greens and cer- H
tain of the drabs and grays, are least dis- H
It is probable, then, that In the extreme
solicitude for cleanliness there has beeu H
in unfortunate emphasis placed upon the H
while surroundings of the baby. This is
particularly true of starched materials,
bich not only reflect light but also heat, J
i ud absorb aluiost none of the irritating H
of sunlight. The recent insistence, H
, on soft colors in the baby's sur- H
inbdjoga has good reosjon behind it and H
rohably will mean the saving of much H
irritation to the child
This does not mean that children should
be pl.o Bd in dark rooma or surrounded B
! entirely by dark hangings, for these are
depreaeing, as all of us well know The
soft grceus arc very soothing, yet bright
and heerful; the soft grays are very rest
fill, yet not at all depressing. There also
are many neutral tints that are very
pleasing to the eye and to the mind that
hive ot the Irritating quality of
white The bright blues are probably not
advisable, for they reflect Ihe more rapid
rays of ihe spectrum, which produce H
chemical effects and probably also tend
to reflect some of the ultra-violet rays, )
which strongly actinic,
Ucd, at the other end of the spectrum,
also i- irritating, Its effect upou certain
animals, as the bull, is well known, while
there i no doubt that it has a somewhat H
similar influence upon many sensitive hu- H
man bcingm Tin- darker blues uud the H
darki r n ils not ojk.-ii to much ob
ultbough tbey are nut nearly so
likely to lie uiiirrilating as the ucutral
I he middle of the spectrum. The
old vegetable dyes. -ml. ar.- t.st-J in
and hallgings, are particu- H
larly free from irritating qualities. The
cheap hut i,-1 ri - li and H
my lints.' H
Cheapness works way. AI-. H
byi- H
as H
in surVoit:diiig4 f MhiaO 1
