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If Fashions Latest Decree In E&:
I Pretty Gowns And Suits
I
The United Stales is now flooded
with the Parisian stylos. Among
the new designs in trimming of
fered by the foreicn experts are
colored furs and metal lace. Green
and purple fox fur is popular and
much used on the new dresses.
The Turkish design Is the lat
est in skirts, and French designers
go so far as to carry out the effect
by trimming the garment with sil
ver moons and stars.
H The whole world knows that
Paris dictates the fashloQB, bul
Paris takes care that the world does
not too soon know what these fash
ins will be. Much difficulty Is
experienced in visiting the fashion
shops and obtaining a glimpse of
the original designs for duplication
Hl by American modistes
To prevent the furious from vli -
Iltlng Parisian fashion salons with
the intention of copying or throi;ch
curiosity, dealers are now requiring
prospective customers to slpn con
tracts to purchase at least ouo
I i f
I fcown, before thoy are granted acl-
fiftltfB mission. M. Winter one of the
jgHgH most famous designers In Paris,
hHk3B was the ono to originate this cus-
mffijn tom lie bana rich Americans
I I
who were Willing to purchase but
not without first obtaining a
glimpse of the goods they were to
buy.
M. PreiiK't. a rival, made no such
rule and 'welcomed all callers with
the result he made more than
000 In sales in a single day.
house of fmo f'allot is as
peremptory as thut of Premet, al
though ii has more cause, because it
Is older and has had a sad experi
ence with copyists of both countries.
This house delayed its opening until
all the other places had exhibited,
and then it could not seatlhe Amer
ican buyers the first or second day.
Such measures would not go if
it were not that this house "de
livers the goods," to indulge in a
street paying.
Verj Haughtj Ire
the (iimn Designers.
The buyers say that their firm
demand Callot gowns because
American women Insist upon them,
and although the manners of the
house arc notoriously haughtv, and
the prices are wicked, yet the re
sult is that Callot dears enough in
three wteks from the American
buyers to satisfy a group of cap
italists in Now York
Worth is more amenable, much
more kindly than most of the other
houses, and consistently produces
clothes that wear the ear marks of
courtesy, gentility and elegance.
The house of Paquln Is very dif
ficult to enter, and although one
docs not have to sign a contract to
buy a gown before having the front
door opened, still there are so
many detectives In women's ap
parel, and so much questioning and
obvious favoritism, that no oiih
dares to go in who is not ready t..
spend money.
Paul Polret," who, cue of the bu -era
of prominence says, is the only
genius Purls possesses in clothes, Is
exclusive, but never unpleasant.
The gowns he produces are not casl
lj copied and he does not make a
bid for popularity. He can dress
the Trench women better than the
Americans, and his place always
has the air of high artistic endeav
or rather thau commercialism,
PC . , r
AT FAMOUS-BARR STUDIO
The sensation at Callot's opening
was llrst the zouave skirt, and next
the green mole-skin coat. When
the manikin wore it overy one want
ed to know what kind of new fur It
was. and when the vendeuae said
that It was mole-skin dyed green,
the Amerlc.n fell back and sighed:
"What next will wo have to buy?"
This coat was moderately Ipns
and was worn over a green gown
made of duvetyn. This Is the new
material of the winter and. by the
way, here hangs a tale, for fashion,
you know, is as full of gossip is so
( leti and politic?. Mighty interest
ing gossip, too. although those who
look at the surface of clothes may
not consider it so.
The tale is this Rodler. the great
fabric designer, created duvetyn and
put it out to the famous dressmak
ers for their new gowns The secret
got out, the fabrlo was copied and
called by the same name, when,
much to the consternation of many,
it was found that Rodlei haJ rei
tered this name and taken out a pat
ent on it.
-reen, Blue and
Purple Fox Skins Used.
Hut back to dyed furs. Premet
puts green and purple fox on a host
of gowns, and women go about
wearing red foxejB dipped In bloc,
but it remained lo Callot to take a
' ' ' '
mole-skin coat and dye It green. The
blue fox i.s an eccentric idea, and
the only reason that one can give
for its popularity among some of
the dressmakers is that thoj had n
lot of red foxes left over and got out
the dye pot
callot also uses n new Kind of
Russian fur which. I think, Polret
uses, too. It Is called kolinsky unci
Is a queer yellow that is not alto
gether attractive.
Callot brought out her new skirt
In many guises, but the most sensa
tional costume that included It was
eminently Turkish. The tkirt was
or white satin laid in wide lapping
pleats at the waistline, and the full
ness from these was pulled straight
out at the knees to look like the
zouave trousers of the Turkish sol
diers The narrow lower part,
which was not separate and at
tached to the pleats, but was a
tightening of the drapery, was hard
ly wider than u pair of trousers (it
the hem.
The jacket worn wlih this skirt
was of bright Turkish blue velvet,
slashed at each side and ornamcnt
t il with braid.
Callot goes in decidedly for Turk
ish coloring and ideas She Is
Strangely under the Inlluence of Con
stantinople. si,,, even uses the star
and crescent a.n a decoration on In r
short Turkish Jackets, and sprinkle
heavy gold Turkish galloons and
braiding over the surface of coats
and SklrtS.
She ha simple downs that do noF
Miow any Oriental com binn t Ions.
Mieh as in alluring affi lr of white
satin and white tulle which hae a
bodice of the latter run over a shal
low band of flesh pink satin. Lher
one arm Is a sleeve of crystals aM M j
over the other shoulder is a strap j
ot pink roses without a sleeve. J
l or ii!) ill these the prices r'JB t
well up above two and three hun
dred dollars, and when one acbl- d (
per cent duly, one can sec "hat j I
our merchants and dressmakers cx
p nd lot Krench clothes In one j I
weak I
But the American women demand : j
them, and the Ideas Involved n l
them are adopted from Alaska ,0
Florida. They no through all the ;
tagea from i ostl - xhlbits in N 1
Yoik salons to 10-cent paper pat ,
terns by rural free delivery J
The novelty in the way of trim- j I
mlng, beyond question, is nu ;jl j
lai i So mm h of it Is used by the 1
-a i outurlers that I spent an ; i
ernoon where It is round before the j
dressmakers get hold of it j
I 'own there they told me it 11 i
called lame, (if there does not haP;
pen to be an accent on the
when you read it In the paper, re
member that the word Is divided
Into two svllables and there Is an
accent on the linal letter. slvmS
the sound of a"). I-et It D"t share j
the fate of ratine, which the ma
jority of Americans divided into
three svllables Instead of two.
There are many pleaslnc vartot,'J
of metal i n ei and only one la ca He
This la on i yons nel and n
a. loose kind of embroidery maae
.ih a flat thread of gold The worn
aignini b gold thai has been flatten
out bj a rolling mill: therefqre m
name. I
The metal thread la run In "
OUl Ol tho net in a careless way
lone tlti hea from one to tnr
inches. When It 1 not used In ue
sign. It is used as on edge to 1
I. .uid of net, and It makes an
mlrablc finish with which the dieM .
makers arc dellghtedt j
