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H THE STANDARD MAGAZINE SECTION OGDEN, UTAH, DECEMBER 13. 1913.
I! Pmisnd Hair
I What woman has not at Home
time In hc-r life whether as a small
maid at school, as a voting woman
at college, or as a member of a
choral or dramntJc club during
married life taken part In some
thing that required she be dressed
r in the style of Marie Antoinette !
"With her skin tinted pink. hr
eyelashes and brows daintily pen
ciled and with patches at corner
or rosy Hps, or languid eyes, she
has admired herself, and gradual
ly has adopted the style.
It is no unusual thing to meet a
girl or woman on .1 downtown
street these days with all these ap
purtenances of the coquette plas
tered on her countenance.
But the white wig or th pow
' dercd hair never' As much as
the admired herself with her face
crowned with the snowy white
hair. she could not bring herself
to adopt the fad.
This means the American girl
or woman who, after all. lacks
courage to take the initiative in
sponsoring a style failed to adopt
It remained then, for the French
Tom'n to adopt the white hair and
' call it the Marie Antoinette style
while we on this side of the Atlan
tic might as well have seized the
chance and called it the return of
It has become very much the
fashion, then, to appear in the
rvening, or the afternoon, with a
high coiffure, with the puffs and
rolls and queer Mttle ringlets of
our great-grandmothers' days all
powdered white, and making a
HAVE NEITHER TIMF
NOR THE INCLINATION.
Many women who have not the
time nor Inclination nor more im
portant still, the hair have wigs
whlh they doff and don. not In
publl.. of course, as one doe a hat,
arms, not to mention the resem
blance of an inverted flour barrel It
would give to one's own gown.
There is where the wig makes felt
Its supremacy to mere natural
things. A "Is mglht get awry at a
tango party probably would. In
fact but it at least being naturally
white would not commit the
solecism of pretending to bo a tal
cum powder box.
One thing the fad for white head
dress has done la make women and
girls whose hair Is prematurely
gray, reallez the beauty of it. It is
sad to note the number of women
who have dyed their hair for ifiany
years, and bavin abandoned the
habit, are going through the trying
ordeal of having hair of every color
of the rainbow
How can a woman who has ever
noticed the effect of dye on an
other woman's hair, be led Into this
The writer was at a Symphony
Orchestra concert the other even
ing. The affair was attended al
most solely by women and girls.
Such head dresses!
It was an education to study the
had and remark how fw of their
owners studied this all Important
feature of dressing the hair.
Just two women there could be
said to have cared for their hair
and to have adopted style they
know suited their beauty and con
tinued to use It.
One great fault Is that a style be
coming to one woman Will be
adopted by many of her friends to
whom it is whollv unbecoming.
One of these women had an
abundance of dull blonde hair. It
had no luster, hut was beautiful,
nevertheless. She wore it In the
living in an age of hurry and bustle.
Women seem to have very little
time, comparatively, for the study
FRAGILE LACES WORN
WITH SATINS AND PI RS.
They are very much less Indi
vidual than was Mario Antoinette
or the lovely Princess Do Lamballe.
Modern women lovo dress quit
as much a) did the beoutles of days
gone by, but they love it In a dif
ferent way. They have neither time
nor inclination for an exhaustive
study of their own possibilities, and
that Is a pity.
Nevertheless, the Influence of as
sociation makes Itself felt. Fow
dercd hair alwajs has been worn
with masses of fragile laces and
with magnificent wraps of satin and
fur; to le convinced of this fact we
have only to study the master
pieces of famous artists.
The fur wrap of today Is quite
as magnificent as any of those de
pleted In old paintings. A really
superb mantle was worn at the
opera a few nights ago over a
modern gown, composed of tango
The mantle WU made of ermine,
and it was bordered with white
fox. It was long and wide, volum
inous enough to cover two women.
But that Is the latest Idea.
All ihe new mantles appear to
be several sizes too large for the
women who wear them. They aro
drawn round the figuro and draped
0 ''- ' '
I but in private, and no one Is sup
posed to be any the wiser.
The wigs are lovely, of course,
and then. too. there is something
about the hair in a wig that makes
It always stay put a very hard
thing to train one's own hair to do
The powdered head dress really is
only practical for the theater, a din
ner or a reception or tea where one
does little moving about.
But Imagine a powdered head
dress at a tango party! Powder fly
ing In every direction, over the es
cort's shoulders, shirt bosom and
pompadour fashion, with a heavy
bang In front.
At the top of her head she wore
an Inch wide amber comb. Her
knot was divided Into two parts
and eaeh was rolled Into a figure
eight. The tops of the eights were
hltrh. resembling a psyche knot,
and extended down the head. An
amber barrette confined the wispy
locks at the nape of her neck.
The other woman, a bride of
several weeks, has very glossy
black hair. She wore It parted In
the center and rolled at each side,
evidently over a small roll, and the
back of It was done In a wonder of
small strands resembling a plait.
WEAR COLONIAL EFFECT.
Rtcentl) at a tea several debu
tantes appeared with the colonial
head drosses. but the costumes
being of the ultra French mode,
tight skirted and with practically
no waists at all. the effect was ren
Now that powdered hair has be
come so fashionable, even for street
wear, we dud very picturesque fash
ions gliding into prominence.
This s only what might have been
expected, for there Is something
about powdered hair which demands
the grande dame stylo of toilet.
It would not bo possible in any
ordinary Ircumstances to wear
powdered hair with an Inartistic or
That this fashion of a rtlflclally
whitening the hair Is finding gen
eral favor with women Is unde
niable; the most unexpected people
are adopting It, and with good re
sults. In a circle of fashionable society
leaders it Is th exception to find
hair of any ordinary hue; nine-
T 1 PES of powdered coif-
fures that are popular
among new faddists.
tenths of the women are exploiting
powders, and probably patches, too.
The average woman Is not aware
she is returning to the picturesque
Styles of Marie Antoinette ani Prin
cess Dc Lamballe, but p&J is doing
We see this in the world of head
dresses and of turban toques; w c
see it even more plainly In the
world of furs and evening gowns.
There is a distinct tendency to
adopt robes of "le grand style "
This return to the old style dress
of these beautiful French women
frequently has been urged. It often
has been said that "le grand style"
Is specially suitable for showing off
I woman's beauty and grace.
But, on the other hand, we are
up at one side, the fold being held
in place by one hand.
There is great art In wearing
' and It Is an art which can be made
these splendid-- mantles correctly,
and It Is ?.n art which can be made
very expressive when exploited by
a really clever woman.
A few seasons ago smart gowns
were hobbled at the nnkles; now
the Parisian dressmakers have
moved the hobble higher up. and
though the outline so obtained Is
peculiar, It 6 not unattractive.
It is well to notice that almost all
the newest models produced by the
most exclusive Paris dressmakers
show considerable fulness at the
feet. These gown are frequently
banded In at the knees, but at the
hem plenty "of material Is shown.
CORSAGE IS FOLDED
WITH FRILLED HAsyli:
Another Important point about
the costume Is the folded corsage
with a frilled basque. This also
Is a distinct novelty, and It is one
which will become exceedingly
popular. Basques of different de
sign are appearing on some of the
latest and most costly models and
as the season advances this fashion
will take an Important place.
Here Is a dress which the writer
saw recently, and which Is of a
style distinctly not to be worn with
powdered hair, but it was so beau
tiful and extraordinary that the de
sire to describe It here cannot be
This dress was designed by a
Hungarian portrait painter for a
Hungarian beauty. The arti9t has
called his design "Le Leopard."
and the corsage, or. rather, half of
It, was made of real leopard skin
which had been specially prepared
so It might be supple as chiffon.
The remainder of the dress was
made of an exquisite gauze covered
with leopard-skin spots.
The tawny tints were perfectly
reproduced, and strings of amber
leads appeared at the waist and
Colonial Dame Had No 5
Whiter Coiffure Than
Many ot Our Modern
Belles Who Bow the Head
to Fashion's Latest Dictate
in riair Dressing.
also at the knees, whore the gown
was caught In tightly
The outline of this original robe
suggests the pannier period. The
material was gathered at the waist
and again at the knees, the slight
balloon effect being obtained by
the Introduction of an Interlining of
lightly stiffened chiffon.
The amber beads were genuine
Turkish and were strung on dull
silver threads, the beads being sep
arated by little knobs of silver.
The scalloped hem of the skirt
also was edged with amber, and
cn the right shoulder a lovely orna
ment composed of amber and bril
liants held the leopard skin in
POWDERED HAIR MOT
TO BE WORN ON STREET.
This gown was designed for a
woman who has red brown ey3, ghg p,
red gold hulr and a dead white
skin. She is prominent in society , tj
and it is whispered that Bhe Is Cond lookcii
of amazing her intimate friends by 'rhlteT
performing feats of horsemanship
i Iculated to dh:n iv 1 pro ional
circus rider. 1W
But to return to the powdered "Slflli c
hair fad. It is one that bids fair to ''-possess
get a firm hold on femininity, and ,ttv th
the Styles that It will bring with it !A5
tie day b
are among the prettiest that worn- qfl .
cn ever have worn. Santa ?
Whether powdered locks ever n '
will bo worn extensively on the ne'"y'
street seems doubtful. But its j
popularity for the theater and oth- Ifj 4 (
er Indoor affairals assured. fd me th
I STUDY THE BUMPS ON YOUR BEST GIRL'S HEAD BEFORE YOU MARRY HER. ADVISES PROMINENT PHRENOLOGIST S
S If you are one of the great army
'ja of single men but have been think-
jtflj Ing of getting married sine cu
jjjj read that statistics show marrd
I jM men live longer. It would be a
.! splendid Idea to have your fiancee's
$M head carefully gone over by a
':M Of course she may be very angry
:A when you suggest it, so von had
vjl better hasten tu explain that you
$M don't want her to have it exam-
JM Ined because you fear anything
'jB. wrong with her crowning glory, but
J9I because you wish to know what
kind of a disposition she has.
9 At any rate, this Is the advice
of Dr. William Windsor, now of
Boston, who is a phrenologist and
gives lectures on eugenics an
character study, and on personal
Two people with acid dispositions
I ousht not to marry, he savs, and
I Jf they do woll they are certain to
I fifl have more or less unhapplness.
9 And he would not confine this
I jS study to maidens who are about to
I ''''l3 establish homes of their own, but
s-S' believes that it Is Just as Important
SB for the disposition and character
of the men to be known to the girls.
&B "The time has come to revolu-
Bj 38 tlonlzo our ideas of marriage, and
;'-H the sooner It Is done the better."
B said Dr. Windsor. "We are con-
fl afl ducting a twentieth century lnstltu-
BJ ,vfl tlon upon lines Imposed upon so-
i. ' BJ clety centuries ago by men who
never heard a steamboat whistle
-Jl ar"3 who would have regarded the
achievements of chemistry as the
machinations of Satan.
&jjH "Men and women can be an-
$?'nH slyxed and classified as well as
fe-B minerals. plants and animals,"
njSfcBB continued the doctor, "and the name
ftj3fll rules of affinity and antagonism
RjBB apply to each.
HH "It Is n fact that every man and
BBBfl every woman resembles first a min-
BhBB era!, second a plant and third an
BH animal, and fourth a typo of hu-
Kflflj manity in which the analogy Is
HK "Some characters are as sharp as
BHBfljj "teel. olhtrs as pliable as lead, and
some Intellects ring as clear as sil-
ver while others are more like
brass," he says.
But he never uses the word
bumps. Speaking of "bumps" to a
phrenologist is like waving a red
flag before a bull, he declared.
"It la easier to demonstrate the
rescmblace of people to animals
than their likeness to plants, bu'.
both are possible," he continued.
"You cannot walk a block with
out seeing faces that remind you of
horses, dogs and hogs and occa
sionally you meet a woman who Is
There is also a human chemistry
that is interesting. In nature every
fruit that Is sweet comes to us In
concave form like the banana, the
pea and the bean. Every fruit that
is sharp Is also sour, as the lemon,
strawberry, gooseberry and others.
"The same principal Is expressed
In human faces, and even.' variety
of fruit can be seen, yes and even
tasted in human faces."
Dr Windsor then threw aside two
largo plush portieres and exposed
a cabinet In Which vvore a number
of portraits mounted on rollers.
"Here Is the type of women that
resemble a grape, this one a lemon
and will set your teeth on edjre, this
man resembles a strawberry and
this one a tv plcal banana.
He slated It was only necessary
to look at the pictures' to see the
Here is what Dr. Windsor has to
say on the subject of the flavor of
"The philosophy of the various
forms of greeting practiced by all
nations and races of people bears
testimony to this fact, that human
beings develop marked Individual
flavors, as different and as marked
as any of the fruits. Some persons
enjoy kissing. others rub noaea;
many forms of caressing and hand
shaking abound, all based upon the
senations of temperature and
"We speak of 'warm affection,
'sweet' kisses, "sour looks, and use
other expressions, all testifying to
the genera) belief In this doctrine.
' But I am the first to have the
temerity to claim that and the au
dacity to prove that the actual fla
vor of the kiss can be determined
by electromagnetic and chemical
observation, and that by analogy
we can claaslfy the persons we love
Into their proper resemblances to
metals and gems, and to fruits and
But any person of refined sensi
bilities who will control his aston
ishment at the novelty of the prop
osition, and sober down to the ac
tual experiment and observation,
will be convinced of the truth of
"When one is willing to make
the test, many a man wno speaks
of his sweetheart as a 'peach' may
bo astonished to find that she Is
really a strawberry.' and that his
use of the term peach waa really a
contribution of enthusiasm to popu
lar slang. Of course he things the
prirl is delightful, her kisses thrill
him with delicious sensations, and
for want of a scientific knowledge
and proper vocabulary he tells her
she is a 'peach.'
He marries her. and later dis
covers that she has decldedlv acid
fiualitles. and he thinks that she
has soured. This leads to much
domestic misery, when, if the par
ties had been correctly informed
In the first place, a true apprecia
tion of the conditions of both would
undoubtedly have led to better re
sults. "The fact Is that there Is so little
actual information imparted to
young people regarding the true
nature and expression of lovo and
affection that most young men are
In no condition to exercise Judg
ment. "When a young man kisses his
sweetheart he is generally o ex
1 Ited that he could not tell a real
peach from a persimmon, and
young women In love are at a
greater disadvantage, because most
young men have so completely dln
gulsed their individual flavors with
stimulating alcoholic drinks, cigars
and cigarettes, not to mention
chewing tobacco, that the girl hae
no chance for discriminating judg
ment. "The time will come and Is near
ly here when the Individual flavors
of men and women will be as clear
ly discerned as the individual
flavors of the various fruits and
flowers and when (he same discrim
inating Judgment will bo used In
the rejection of the undesirable.
"When we have determined the
temperament of the individual, and
decide upon the typo which he re
sembles, it is an easy matter to
adjust him to a location or clininto
where he will thrive, to adjust him
to an education which will develop
his powers and to an occupation
where he will acquit himself with
"It remains to Instruct him In the
choice of a companion in marriage
and to create an ideal of congen
iality and mutual helpfulness.
"Now phrenology reveals the as
tounding fact that many persons
are unfit by nature for their so
cial compact. There are many
pcrson3 every day forced into mat
rimony by conventional pressure
who cannot meet Its responsibil
ities and who should not bo blamed
for failure to p rform them TI10
shape of a man's head often indi
cates that he will take absolutely
no Interest in his wife or children.
If he should have any
"For instance, in Austin Texas,
some years ago I examined a man
of largo Intellect and deep reIiglou
feeling who had been removed
from the ministry and excelled
from the church ifor neglect of his
wife and child
"The examination showed that
the ""brain centers In the occipital
region devoted to the lovo of wom
an and of children were almost
entirely wanting. In other words,
the wife an.) child were entirely
outside his Interests and could not
be Included In his thoughts. Ob
viously the man was not to blame
for conditions beyond his control."
The doctor declares that after
examining the heads of two oung
people proposing marriage, he can
tell If they will havo little money
and great happiness, or have a lot
of money, but make life moro spicy
by having a family row about every
second or third day.
If the husband or wife seems un
sociable, this Is the reason, Dr.
"Many persons who are intense
ly devoted as husbands and wives,
are also intensely disagreeable. This
Is because they lack development In
the region of Sympathy, which In
cludes the upper and frontal region
of the cranium. Persons who are
deficient in this part of the hrain
are tactless, abrupt, cross and ex
ceedingly hard to get along with.
"Of course every variation of the
form of the head gives a different
combination of mental faculties and
a different manifestation of char
acter. The fact Is that a happy
marriage relation Is only possible to
those who havo a fairly good nor
mal development of the entire
brain, and even then It Is not like
ly to be accomplished without a
.rtudj of eugenics, phrenology and
' The troublo with the whole sub
ject of marriage is that It has been
treated as a Joke Instead of as a
serious, scientific problem Involving
the highest interosts of the race
and requiring the deepest study and
best efforts of profound intellects.
"I have often told young people
the trouble they would encounter
If they should marry. And the truth
, rar wro,
of my predictions have later been ' rn
proved," said the doctor. ' To IU
And do most perple thinking of 1 r ; i; .
marriage follow your advice and . "Tejen
not marry when you sa they aro "1 have
' not adapted to each other?" asked at s.,n
the 1 eporti r. j on l0e
"No, very often they do not The t they
desire to marry Is inborn in the up there
human racu and young people usu- vjallov.- j
ally follow that Inclination In spite ; anv, m
of anything that may be said by
their parents or anybody else h n
agalrjst it," remarked Dr. Wind- ,,,r
sor . he had
But according to Dr. Windsors mo
way of thinking there L-t no reason
why you should ever "pick a lem- j ,, , '
on in the garden of love." v.. ''
LIBERTY IS AIM OF YANKEES, SAYS CRITIC !,
Aitnost a hundred years ago one
of the friendliest of our foreign
critics said of us "Liberty Is not
the -chief and constant object of
their desires. Equality Is their idol.
They make rapid and sudden efforts
to obtain liberty, and If they miss
their aim. resign themselves to
their disappointment, but nothing
can satisfy them without equality,
and they would rather perish than
Goethe said that good manners
could come only with equality The
two statements taken together give
the very essence of the American
attitude We-treat each other as
equals and this accounts at once
for the lack of deference in public
servants of which foreigners com
plain, and for tholr profound friend
liness, which foreigners do not
seem able to comprehend. "The
conductor on the railway." an ob
serving American has written, "will
not touch his hat to you, but then
he docs not expect a fee from you.
The workman In the street of whom
you ask a question will answer you
as an equal, but he will tell you
what you want to know," Mow
there are many people who cannot
stomach such Independence. who
can enjoy nothing but acknowl
edged superiority. They want to be
master, and delight socially
speaking In playing with loaded
dice. They expect their friends to
Show more affection than thoy do,
they wish their servants to be sor
rier to leave than they aro to have
them go, and they beileve that one
of the duties of those who serve
thein in any capacity is to esteem
that service a privilege.
Such people aro happiest In Eng
land, where anyone belonging ap
parently to the upper classes is cer
tainly supremely well taken caro of.
Such people do not realize that
there is something terribly precari
ous in being well treated only be
cause one Is supposed to be an
aristocrat, and that only a good
coat and plenty of loose change
float them over an abyss of inso
lence deeper by far than their own
countrymen threaten even at their
worst. There is a solid security in
being admitted as a fellow being
and an equal. Not all Americans,
of course, have a taate for oqualltv,
but without It no one can under
stand far less enjoy, the particular
brand of good manners that flour
ishes In this country. From "The
Point of View," in th December -j ".'
Scribncr's Magazine. , '
. fere a 1
The Good Farmer's Creed. N 05 1
I believe in a permanent agricul- f H si
lure, a soli that shall grow richer fn' ,yea
lather than poorer from year to an! ma
year. " I L d ar
I believe in 100-bushel corn and? . too Btr
in 50-bushel wheat, and r shall not iiL"1
be satisfied with anything Itfss. Wo
I believe that the oniy weed is
a dead weed, and that a clean farm Sir,' ; ,
Is aa Important as a clean con- uij, ,,Ur
science. d hoy -
I believe In the farm boy and in iat u
the farm girl, the farmer's best quiet
crops and the future's best hope. -j of n)s
I believe in the farm woman, and 0n
will do all in my power to make I ii'hlske,
her life easier and happier. chnin(
I believe in a country school that ; 0re e
prepares for country l!fe and a urne
country church that teaches its peo- e,j0 .
plo to love deeply and live honor- tlng (
I believe In community spirit, n v cjjn
pride in home and neighbors, and I
will do my part to make my com- )linj f
munlty the best In the State. &r WJ
I believe in the farmer, I believe mng w)
in farm life, I believe in the inspl- m. '
ration of the open country- he ir
I am proud to be a farmer, and 1 '
I will try earnestly to bo worthy of M ,g 1
tho name. Frank I. Mann. ijnibecll