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I Iff W ar Establishes aNew Code of Dress for Fash- I ionable Women - Furs and Fabrics Bespeak f Elegance, But Modes Suggest Simplicity All Adopt Subdued Colors. I", 77 1AR TIME has established a new if I standard of dress for women; ULI and has also afforded oppor tunlty for several styles of costume, new to the fashionables. ; which must after all be a pleasing relief from long-accustomed tradi tions. Every woman welcomes a new kind of garb, whether It be a fancy i dress costume that presents personal fl loveliness In a novel and piquant H frame, or some sort of uniform that iSHtr is different and therefore interesting. This season fripperies and frivolities of raiment have been laid aside: not kI because the average woman cannot f indulge In them If she chooses, but . because popular sentiment and also personal feeling are against display , or vanity In any form. : i Besides, the avcrago woman is too WM busy. She is occupied with bigger and graver affairs than supplying cos- tumes for matters of diversion, She ; 's aPt to be a very busy person, at- tending all sorts of things that relate to war-relief work; she must dress to 1 bo sure, but her dress must express ,, ' the earnestness of her thought and ,. the high purpose of her endeavor. So the war-time frocks are dark and un pretentious, the war-time tallleur Is as business like as tailored lines and lack of ornamentation can make It ; the general aspect of women Is dignified and earnest, as the outward jH ' expression of an Inner spirit of hclp : fulness always is; and not merely en gaging and arresting as clothes built : and worn to attract attention to self are apt to be. What They Wear At Charity Affairs. Tho woman who does any work at Sl all for war relief and who docs not, L these days? Is apt to do a good deal of work. Thero Is so much to be done something for every pair of hands that offer to help that before one knows It, one is "in deep" and eycry spare hour of one's day Is com mandeered. What with so many hours of work at Red Cross headquar ters, so many hours of knitting at home: so many hours spent at com mittee meetings, so many hours at one's desk sending out circulars, so many hours of visiting about, solicit ing subscriptions, so many hours do votcd to war-bazaars, either as a pur chaser or a salcsmaker, thero Is act ually scarcely time to sit down ten minutes at homo and rest! Then there arc the social-charity affairs, the sub scription brldgo parties where ono do nates a dollar for tho privilege of the game prizes eliminated the knlt-tlng-tcas, the dances given in aid of one or another war-rollof funds all these of course demand clothes. The woman who abides by certain tradi tions In dress, by long-established canons of correctness. In whom unlit or slovenly attire would attract more attention than utmost lavishncss of display, must have costumes for all these charity affairs. Not nccessarjly elaborate costumes, but something In tho way of clothes none-the-less; and clothes hacked about from place to place, their wearer alert and on busi ness bent, do not retain tholr fresh smartness very long. So the fashion able woman Is wearing about as many costumes as usual this year, though they arc not the kind of costumes her maid used to guard -with dainty care In the bygone days of luncheons, re ceptions and dinner parties. The Morning And Afternoon Taillcur. In tho morning tho busy woman of affairs war-relief affairs is as trim and practical in raiment as any alert j TKeWrap of Ses"teXvr ''A business woman; though to be sure the business woman rides downtown In the subway whilo tho woman pre siding over a relief commission Is like ly to make tho journey In her limou sine. Tailored clothes of dark or neu tral color aro the rule for both, with furs and a small tailored hat. At tho charity bazaar of an afternoon, tho woman who attends as a purchaser dresses a bit more luxuriously, but her velvet suit is apt to bo simple In style and her hoadgcar of tho small but select type (hat goes with a rich yet not dressy afternoon costume. "Dress iness," mind you. Is a thing to be sedulously avoided this year, If ono would have one's clothes express sym pathy and cooperation with high ideals of work and 'helpfulness. Two attractive suits of the kinds mentioned arc pictured. Each Is per fect in Its way, as typical of tho best in woman's dress this war-tlmo sea son. The broadcloth tailored suit Is a soft neutral green in color, botwecn sage and reseda, a shado that is most lovely with the beaver fur that forms a deep shawl collar. Note tho very narrow skirt, plain as a plpcstcm, the whole Interest of the suit centering In the graceful coat with Its pleated tunic, Its oddly buttoned belt and Its close sleeves extending Into buttoned tabs at the cuff. With this green and beaver costume Is worn a very business-like little hat of black velvet, sharply turned back in tho French fashion and trimmed with a smartly slanting fur aigrette. Tho only touch of gaiety In the costume is tho reticule of bright silk brocade and this much fashion permits femininity Just now Just as a beneficent custom pormits I: FEATHERS do not always 9 make fine blrdsA and by the same token, neither do elabor- ; Jf ate boxes, fine bon-bons. But : ' as a rule, the more distinguished tho receptacle In which you receive an offering of sweets, tho more arc they !T0S1 ; ' to be depended upon for excluslvo ffljj quality. For nobody puts cheap candy IjJJS in a costly box, the thing Is unheard of; and usually the moro exponsive )Sm the sweets, the more you pay for the J package In which thoy aro delivered to you by tho obliging salesperson. IjRlis There Is one exception to this rule mfSWr n Iannattan at least. ' At one of Vm the highest priced candy shops in 'jjjjjM 'tf town whoso chocolato goodIe3 have Sera , won a well deserved world-wldo repu- rS?S ; lotion, your candles are packed for Iji J you in an extremely distinguished but IJ j perfectly unobtrusive cardboard box fsljj I' stamped In ono corner with the name jago (, that Is a name to conjure with if "jjjjj I ' chocolates are under consideration. It wS is an inspiring experience to watch j the deft fingers of the saleswoman bjjg select with a pair of silver tongs and lyfi V incredlblo rapidity a pound of varl- H i : ous sorts of candies and pack them In 14 i( a tin-foil and lace-paper lined box for 2S2 j' which you pay well considerably! gdtf over a dollar. Buj: women who fancy JjK these bon-bons would rather havo a little fifty-cent box of them no bigger than a cigarette case than tho most elaborately decked and ribbon gar nished basket of less exclusive sweets. Candy receptacles have passed tho stage of mero ornamentalncss and havo become potential treasures of practical use. They masquerade as candy boxes but there is no doubt in tho mind of the gratified recipient that they are glove cases, sewing baskets or flower containers in dis guise. After tho pound or two of bon-bons have been consumed, tho box or basket remains a joy forever, or at least as long as Its attractive appearance lasts and sometimes much longer, if ono fancies its shape or some other quality pi Its conveni ence. It Is qulto the fad to tuck a little package of your friend's favorite sweeties Into the knitting bag or the theatro retlculo you send her as a gift by that much is tho thoughtful character of tho gift enhanced; and sometimes a touch of sontlment can be given to a very prosaic present by tho addition of candy. For lnstanco, this year of "practical presents" a woman 1 know has decided to glvo many of her feminine friends and rel atives covered glass baking dishes ' & SliiiiiiiiiiiimsawmiusaiiKiiimiiesg which aro rather now and a most delightful addition to a modern kit chen. And each of tho glass dishes will bo filled with a special sort of candy, the favorite kind of Its recipi ent of courso. A covered vcgetablo dish will look very attractive filled with vari-colored buttercups and tied about with pale pink and grcca and yellow ribbons matching the candles showing through the clear glass; a plo dish will have a slnglo layer of rich chocolato and pale yellow bon-bons arranged in a mosaic pattern, a cas scrolo will hold salted nuts, tho layers divided by thin sheets of oiled paper, and so on. Candy-filled receptacles that will later grace the china closet or tho dining room side table, should delight any housekeeper, and some of these useful and acceptable articles cost no more than the perfectly u.seloss but elaborate hand-painted boxes of satin or kid which used to bo considered' tho proper thing for bon-bon contain ers. Here aro some suggestions for gifts of this sort. A porcolaln or glass flower bowl and holder, tho candy to bo packed In tho low bowl, around tho flower holder. An earthenware bowl and holder of rich coloring can bo purchased for about a dollar, a '. - Jcied Lillle Hal. cf reaVher-s atid a BiKuf f ' man his gorgeous necktie, however J somber the rest of his clothes. Tho afternoon tallleur, for all Its rich ele gance of fabric Is extremely simple in line; Just a narrow skirt and a belted tunic, with a fow covered buttons of the material. The suit is mado of black velvet and the fur Is pointed fox altogether a combination of un surpassed distinction. The little hat gives tho practical note where a large, feathered hat would give this costumo a very dressy character. But; toned spats of pale gray cloth aro worn over light walking pumps of black kid. Indoor Costumes Of Busy Workers. At tho charity tea or brldgo game or at the war-relief bazaar if ono Is behind one of the booths a smart but not too smart frock Is called for and with this may be worn a picture hat if ono so chooses. Very charming frocks aro seen at these affairs, but always tho cqstumcs suggest dignity and restraint and not a desire to at tract attention. Two very engaging frocks aro pictured, just such dainty very smart cracklowarc bowl and holder for about three dollars, and a pound of candy will be ample- A covered bowl of Italian pottery in tho delicate latticed design Is so beau tiful for fruit. Such a bowl with brlght-hued parrots perched on tho cover costs fifteen dollars. Simple dishes of this pottery jnay bo had for a dollar. A pleco of Old English Reproduction silver; a bon-bon or cako plate reproducing somo Interest-, lng historical pattorn. Such a candy holder will provo a valuablo posses- but dignified frocks as one Is likely to seo on tho woll bred woman who pre sides at tho candy booth in a fashion able war-bazaar, or on tho protty maid who tags you for "cigarettes for tho soldiers." Ono frock Is of satin, tho other of velvoL The satin frock, very dark brown In shade is brightened by brown and dull gold embroidery. The small hat of brown volvot has a stun ning gold colored wing folded about It and a seai muff harmonizes perfect- , ly with the costume. The velvet frock, In dark green tono has a lace collar and narrow cuffs of Creamy Venlse. The hat and Its soft feather wreath aro creamy tan, tho tops of tho shoes, also. This Is ono of tho now button-In-back frock3 which suit youthful wom en admirably and the sash Is youthful and graceful too. Few "Light Frocks Seen. Dark, costumes aro tho rule this year except for the evening. Out of courtesy and sympathy for women who for patriotic reasons will not wear mourning oven when personal preference must bo put aside, all wom- slon and a continued joy to any wom an who receives it, filled with her favorito sweets. A compote or relish dish of engraved glass, with flvo com partments, each of which may be filled with a dlfforcnt sort of candy, tho , whole making an attractive color scheme. A cheese and cracker dish of glas3 with hammered silver trim ming, tho cheeso compoto in the centor of tho flat plato for crackers. In the elevated cheeso dish may bo palo yel low bon-bons whilo chocolate and palo green bon-rbons radiate in stripes from Place-Favor Bou-Bon Holders For The Christmas Board, All New Ideas-For Tills Season. w - Jim - 1 ASmarlly Tailo-eed fm "v, H ikrtt of GTfeeirLCJlOYeclcL II : il en aro keeping to dark or subdued dress these day3 and in any largo gathering of representative women the light frocks may be counted on tho angers of ono hand. In tho cloak room of the charity affair, however, you look for tho gorgcousness you miss this year in costume. Over some of the simplo and unpretentious little "war frocks" magnificent fur coats are wrapped.. Nobody has made any effort to conserve fur so there is plenty of it for cvorybody; and though, to be sure, ono observes less ermine, orange fox and palo fitch than in days of yore when afternoon costumes were gayer, there arc sets of rose and silver fox, of lynx, of pointed fox, of beaver that aro beautiful Indeed to look upon even If one may not own such lux- urics for horself. There are stunning fur coats too, of seal, of muskrat and soal, of seal and skunk, of seal and MM mole. Nobody dares to wear a single ffl fur in coat or wrap If she wishes to H express this year's style You may see a' costly seal wrap over a hand- H some frock or over a Red Cross unl- H form'. Piles of expensive fur coats . fill tho cloak room at Red Cross head- quarters in overy suburban town, and iJM Inside the work rooms will be found fm rows of women in tho plainest frock3 covered by whito cotton aprons. For WM this Is war-time and clothes do not countl PLANT THE GRAPEFRUIT SEEDS M WO you know what attractlvo little M plants for tho dining room tablo i (fl may be grown from grapefruit SL' seods? Save all tho seeds from tho breakfast and luncheon grapefruit you must havo plenty of seeds for tho HtUc plants must grow In a thick mass to give tho solid effect of green deslr'ablo in a tablo forn-dish. Sow the seeds thickly In a pot of rich soil which you can obtain from any florist, and set tho pot in a sunny window until tho plants aro well up, turning tho pot regularly so that all tho plants may develop alike. Thoy may bo transplanted In a fern dish, or may bo grown directly in . such a receptacle and thero will be enough dainty little plants about threo or four Inches high, and In a delicate, palo green color, to mako a very pleasing center- wM piece through the spring weeks when lt a bit of green a-growlng is so refresh lng to the eye. Lily of tho Valley can bo grown in a sunny window and then placed on the dining room tablo when the flow crs havo bloomed into beauty. Half a WM dozen lily-of-thc-vallcy pips, with moss flbro to aid them grow, may bo obtained for about fifty cents and In a little over two weeks there should be a ff pot of lovely bloom for tho dining tablo. Narcissus bulbs, placed in a ;H shallow bowl of water and propped up with pebbles, will grow Into grace ful. tall plants bearing feathery whlto blossoms in a fow weeks, and tho Japancsey centerpiece is most artlstlo in a dining room. 'H A Charming Sowing Basket, A Bou-Bon Box Which Holds A Cut Glass DLslvA jH Sweet Grass Basket And An Alluring Christmas JSag. Both Of Tho Ijattcr Servo "Further Than Mero Candy Holding. Sl tho-ccnterrinrtho larger-dish olow. Soveral modern receptacles for-" Christmas-candies aro illustrated. The sweet grass baskot speaks foritsel Tho bag In tho samo plcturo Is an ornato affair of gold lace, ovor warp prlntod ribbon with a gathered top of brocaded satin drawn up on' gold cords. Such a bag will hold -tho-do luxo-needlowork kept for tea-hour in the living room, or it may occupy a placo of honor in tho guest room. In another picture aro -shown two useful candy containers; ono a gay iittl o -cow- lng basket trimmed with gold laco and net frills, tho other a chintz- IH covered box in -which is a-cut glass bon-bon-dish.