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The Ogden standard. (Ogden City, Utah) 1913-1920, December 22, 1917, 4 P.M. CITY EDITION, MAGAZINE SECTION, Image 23

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058396/1917-12-22/ed-1/seq-23/

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Iff W ar Establishes aNew Code of Dress for Fash-
I ionable Women - Furs and Fabrics Bespeak
f Elegance, But Modes Suggest Simplicity
All Adopt Subdued Colors.
I", 77 1AR TIME has established a new
if I standard of dress for women;
ULI and has also afforded oppor
tunlty for several styles of
costume, new to the fashionables.
; which must after all be a pleasing
relief from long-accustomed tradi
tions. Every woman welcomes a new
kind of garb, whether It be a fancy
i dress costume that presents personal
fl loveliness In a novel and piquant
H frame, or some sort of uniform that
iSHtr is different and therefore interesting.
This season fripperies and frivolities
of raiment have been laid aside: not
kI because the average woman cannot
f indulge In them If she chooses, but
. because popular sentiment and also
personal feeling are against display
, or vanity In any form.
: i Besides, the avcrago woman is too
WM busy. She is occupied with bigger
and graver affairs than supplying cos-
tumes for matters of diversion, She
; 's aPt to be a very busy person, at-
tending all sorts of things that relate
to war-relief work; she must dress to
1 bo sure, but her dress must express
,, ' the earnestness of her thought and
,. the high purpose of her endeavor. So
the war-time frocks are dark and un
pretentious, the war-time tallleur Is
as business like as tailored lines and
lack of ornamentation can make It
; the general aspect of women Is
dignified and earnest, as the outward
jH ' expression of an Inner spirit of hclp
: fulness always is; and not merely en
gaging and arresting as clothes built
: and worn to attract attention to self
are apt to be.
What They Wear At Charity Affairs.
Tho woman who does any work at
Sl all for war relief and who docs not,
L these days? Is apt to do a good deal
of work. Thero Is so much to be
done something for every pair of
hands that offer to help that before
one knows It, one is "in deep" and
eycry spare hour of one's day Is com
mandeered. What with so many
hours of work at Red Cross headquar
ters, so many hours of knitting at
home: so many hours spent at com
mittee meetings, so many hours at
one's desk sending out circulars, so
many hours of visiting about, solicit
ing subscriptions, so many hours do
votcd to war-bazaars, either as a pur
chaser or a salcsmaker, thero Is act
ually scarcely time to sit down ten
minutes at homo and rest! Then there
arc the social-charity affairs, the sub
scription brldgo parties where ono do
nates a dollar for tho privilege of the
game prizes eliminated the knlt-tlng-tcas,
the dances given in aid of
one or another war-rollof funds all
these of course demand clothes. The
woman who abides by certain tradi
tions In dress, by long-established
canons of correctness. In whom unlit
or slovenly attire would attract more
attention than utmost lavishncss of
display, must have costumes for all
these charity affairs. Not nccessarjly
elaborate costumes, but something In
tho way of clothes none-the-less; and
clothes hacked about from place to
place, their wearer alert and on busi
ness bent, do not retain tholr fresh
smartness very long. So the fashion
able woman Is wearing about as many
costumes as usual this year, though
they arc not the kind of costumes her
maid used to guard -with dainty care
In the bygone days of luncheons, re
ceptions and dinner parties.
The Morning And Afternoon Taillcur.
In tho morning tho busy woman of
affairs war-relief affairs is as trim
and practical in raiment as any alert j
TKeWrap
of Ses"teXvr ''A
business woman; though to be sure
the business woman rides downtown
In the subway whilo tho woman pre
siding over a relief commission Is like
ly to make tho journey In her limou
sine. Tailored clothes of dark or neu
tral color aro the rule for both, with
furs and a small tailored hat. At tho
charity bazaar of an afternoon, tho
woman who attends as a purchaser
dresses a bit more luxuriously, but her
velvet suit is apt to bo simple In style
and her hoadgcar of tho small but
select type (hat goes with a rich yet
not dressy afternoon costume. "Dress
iness," mind you. Is a thing to be
sedulously avoided this year, If ono
would have one's clothes express sym
pathy and cooperation with high
ideals of work and 'helpfulness.
Two attractive suits of the kinds
mentioned arc pictured. Each Is per
fect in Its way, as typical of tho best
in woman's dress this war-tlmo sea
son. The broadcloth tailored suit Is
a soft neutral green in color, botwecn
sage and reseda, a shado that is most
lovely with the beaver fur that forms
a deep shawl collar. Note tho very
narrow skirt, plain as a plpcstcm, the
whole Interest of the suit centering In
the graceful coat with Its pleated
tunic, Its oddly buttoned belt and Its
close sleeves extending Into buttoned
tabs at the cuff. With this green and
beaver costume Is worn a very business-like
little hat of black velvet,
sharply turned back in tho French
fashion and trimmed with a smartly
slanting fur aigrette. Tho only touch
of gaiety In the costume is tho reticule
of bright silk brocade and this much
fashion permits femininity Just now
Just as a beneficent custom pormits
I: FEATHERS do not always
9 make fine blrdsA and by the
same token, neither do elabor-
; Jf ate boxes, fine bon-bons. But
: ' as a rule, the more distinguished tho
receptacle In which you receive an
offering of sweets, tho more arc they
!T0S1 ; ' to be depended upon for excluslvo
ffljj quality. For nobody puts cheap candy
IjJJS in a costly box, the thing Is unheard
of; and usually the moro exponsive
)Sm the sweets, the more you pay for the
J package In which thoy aro delivered
to you by tho obliging salesperson.
IjRlis There Is one exception to this rule
mfSWr n Iannattan at least. ' At one of
Vm the highest priced candy shops in
'jjjjjM 'tf town whoso chocolato goodIe3 have
Sera , won a well deserved world-wldo repu-
rS?S ; lotion, your candles are packed for
Iji J you in an extremely distinguished but
IJ j perfectly unobtrusive cardboard box
fsljj I' stamped In ono corner with the name
jago (, that Is a name to conjure with if
"jjjjj I ' chocolates are under consideration. It
wS is an inspiring experience to watch
j the deft fingers of the saleswoman
bjjg select with a pair of silver tongs and
lyfi V incredlblo rapidity a pound of varl-
H i : ous sorts of candies and pack them In
14 i( a tin-foil and lace-paper lined box for
2S2 j' which you pay well considerably!
gdtf over a dollar. Buj: women who fancy
JjK these bon-bons would rather havo a
little fifty-cent box of them no bigger
than a cigarette case than tho most
elaborately decked and ribbon gar
nished basket of less exclusive sweets.
Candy receptacles have passed tho
stage of mero ornamentalncss and
havo become potential treasures of
practical use. They masquerade as
candy boxes but there is no doubt in
tho mind of the gratified recipient
that they are glove cases, sewing
baskets or flower containers in dis
guise. After tho pound or two of
bon-bons have been consumed, tho
box or basket remains a joy forever,
or at least as long as Its attractive
appearance lasts and sometimes
much longer, if ono fancies its shape
or some other quality pi Its conveni
ence. It Is qulto the fad to tuck a little
package of your friend's favorite
sweeties Into the knitting bag or the
theatro retlculo you send her as a
gift by that much is tho thoughtful
character of tho gift enhanced; and
sometimes a touch of sontlment can
be given to a very prosaic present by
tho addition of candy. For lnstanco,
this year of "practical presents" a
woman 1 know has decided to glvo
many of her feminine friends and rel
atives covered glass baking dishes
' &
SliiiiiiiiiiiimsawmiusaiiKiiimiiesg
which aro rather now and a most
delightful addition to a modern kit
chen. And each of tho glass dishes
will bo filled with a special sort of
candy, the favorite kind of Its recipi
ent of courso. A covered vcgetablo
dish will look very attractive filled
with vari-colored buttercups and tied
about with pale pink and grcca and
yellow ribbons matching the candles
showing through the clear glass; a plo
dish will have a slnglo layer of rich
chocolato and pale yellow bon-bons
arranged in a mosaic pattern, a cas
scrolo will hold salted nuts, tho layers
divided by thin sheets of oiled paper,
and so on.
Candy-filled receptacles that will
later grace the china closet or tho
dining room side table, should delight
any housekeeper, and some of these
useful and acceptable articles cost no
more than the perfectly u.seloss but
elaborate hand-painted boxes of satin
or kid which used to bo considered'
tho proper thing for bon-bon contain
ers. Here aro some suggestions for
gifts of this sort. A porcolaln or glass
flower bowl and holder, tho candy to
bo packed In tho low bowl, around
tho flower holder. An earthenware
bowl and holder of rich coloring can
bo purchased for about a dollar, a
'. -
Jcied
Lillle Hal. cf reaVher-s atid a BiKuf f '
man his gorgeous necktie, however J
somber the rest of his clothes. Tho
afternoon tallleur, for all Its rich ele
gance of fabric Is extremely simple in
line; Just a narrow skirt and a belted
tunic, with a fow covered buttons of
the material. The suit is mado of
black velvet and the fur Is pointed
fox altogether a combination of un
surpassed distinction. The little hat
gives tho practical note where a
large, feathered hat would give this
costumo a very dressy character. But;
toned spats of pale gray cloth aro
worn over light walking pumps of
black kid.
Indoor Costumes Of Busy Workers.
At tho charity tea or brldgo game
or at the war-relief bazaar if ono Is
behind one of the booths a smart
but not too smart frock Is called for
and with this may be worn a picture
hat if ono so chooses. Very charming
frocks aro seen at these affairs, but
always tho cqstumcs suggest dignity
and restraint and not a desire to at
tract attention. Two very engaging
frocks aro pictured, just such dainty
very smart cracklowarc bowl and
holder for about three dollars, and a
pound of candy will be ample- A
covered bowl of Italian pottery in tho
delicate latticed design Is so beau
tiful for fruit. Such a bowl with
brlght-hued parrots perched on tho
cover costs fifteen dollars. Simple
dishes of this pottery jnay bo had for
a dollar. A pleco of Old English
Reproduction silver; a bon-bon or
cako plate reproducing somo Interest-,
lng historical pattorn. Such a candy
holder will provo a valuablo posses-
but dignified frocks as one Is likely to
seo on tho woll bred woman who pre
sides at tho candy booth in a fashion
able war-bazaar, or on tho protty maid
who tags you for "cigarettes for tho
soldiers." Ono frock Is of satin, tho
other of velvoL The satin frock, very
dark brown In shade is brightened by
brown and dull gold embroidery. The
small hat of brown volvot has a stun
ning gold colored wing folded about
It and a seai muff harmonizes perfect- ,
ly with the costume. The velvet frock,
In dark green tono has a lace collar
and narrow cuffs of Creamy Venlse.
The hat and Its soft feather wreath
aro creamy tan, tho tops of tho shoes,
also. This Is ono of tho now button-In-back
frock3 which suit youthful wom
en admirably and the sash Is youthful
and graceful too.
Few "Light Frocks Seen.
Dark, costumes aro tho rule this
year except for the evening. Out of
courtesy and sympathy for women
who for patriotic reasons will not
wear mourning oven when personal
preference must bo put aside, all wom-
slon and a continued joy to any wom
an who receives it, filled with her
favorito sweets. A compote or relish
dish of engraved glass, with flvo com
partments, each of which may be filled
with a dlfforcnt sort of candy, tho ,
whole making an attractive color
scheme. A cheese and cracker dish
of glas3 with hammered silver trim
ming, tho cheeso compoto in the centor
of tho flat plato for crackers. In the
elevated cheeso dish may bo palo yel
low bon-bons whilo chocolate and palo
green bon-rbons radiate in stripes from
Place-Favor Bou-Bon Holders For The Christmas Board, All New Ideas-For
Tills Season.
w - Jim - 1
ASmarlly Tailo-eed fm "v, H
ikrtt of GTfeeirLCJlOYeclcL II
: il
en aro keeping to dark or subdued
dress these day3 and in any largo
gathering of representative women
the light frocks may be counted on
tho angers of ono hand. In tho cloak
room of the charity affair, however,
you look for tho gorgcousness you
miss this year in costume. Over some
of the simplo and unpretentious little
"war frocks" magnificent fur coats
are wrapped.. Nobody has made any
effort to conserve fur so there is plenty
of it for cvorybody; and though, to be
sure, ono observes less ermine, orange
fox and palo fitch than in days of
yore when afternoon costumes were
gayer, there arc sets of rose and silver
fox, of lynx, of pointed fox, of beaver
that aro beautiful Indeed to look upon
even If one may not own such lux-
urics for horself. There are stunning
fur coats too, of seal, of muskrat and
soal, of seal and skunk, of seal and MM
mole. Nobody dares to wear a single ffl
fur in coat or wrap If she wishes to H
express this year's style You may
see a' costly seal wrap over a hand- H
some frock or over a Red Cross unl- H
form'. Piles of expensive fur coats .
fill tho cloak room at Red Cross head-
quarters in overy suburban town, and iJM
Inside the work rooms will be found fm
rows of women in tho plainest frock3
covered by whito cotton aprons. For WM
this Is war-time and clothes do not
countl
PLANT THE GRAPEFRUIT SEEDS M
WO you know what attractlvo little
M plants for tho dining room tablo
i (fl may be grown from grapefruit
SL' seods? Save all tho seeds from
tho breakfast and luncheon grapefruit
you must havo plenty of seeds for
tho HtUc plants must grow In a thick
mass to give tho solid effect of green
deslr'ablo in a tablo forn-dish. Sow
the seeds thickly In a pot of rich soil
which you can obtain from any florist,
and set tho pot in a sunny window
until tho plants aro well up, turning
tho pot regularly so that all tho plants
may develop alike. Thoy may bo
transplanted In a fern dish, or may bo
grown directly in . such a receptacle
and thero will be enough dainty little
plants about threo or four Inches
high, and In a delicate, palo green
color, to mako a very pleasing center- wM
piece through the spring weeks when lt
a bit of green a-growlng is so refresh
lng to the eye.
Lily of tho Valley can bo grown in
a sunny window and then placed on
the dining room tablo when the flow
crs havo bloomed into beauty. Half a WM
dozen lily-of-thc-vallcy pips, with
moss flbro to aid them grow, may bo
obtained for about fifty cents and In a
little over two weeks there should be a ff
pot of lovely bloom for tho dining
tablo. Narcissus bulbs, placed in a ;H
shallow bowl of water and propped
up with pebbles, will grow Into grace
ful. tall plants bearing feathery whlto
blossoms in a fow weeks, and tho
Japancsey centerpiece is most artlstlo
in a dining room. 'H
A Charming Sowing Basket, A Bou-Bon Box Which Holds A Cut Glass DLslvA jH
Sweet Grass Basket And An Alluring Christmas JSag. Both Of Tho
Ijattcr Servo "Further Than Mero Candy Holding. Sl
tho-ccnterrinrtho larger-dish olow.
Soveral modern receptacles for-"
Christmas-candies aro illustrated. The
sweet grass baskot speaks foritsel
Tho bag In tho samo plcturo Is an
ornato affair of gold lace, ovor warp
prlntod ribbon with a gathered top of
brocaded satin drawn up on' gold
cords. Such a bag will hold -tho-do
luxo-needlowork kept for tea-hour in
the living room, or it may occupy a
placo of honor in tho guest room. In
another picture aro -shown two useful
candy containers; ono a gay iittl o -cow-
lng basket trimmed with gold laco
and net frills, tho other a chintz- IH
covered box in -which is a-cut glass
bon-bon-dish.

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