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I Trousers for . Women Will Never
Be a Fixture They're Too Ugly
I Feminine Demand for Beauty, Not
Dread of Immodesty, Insures
Permanence of Frills.
CLOTHES, TOO, ARE WORLD'S
BULWARK OF COMMERCE.
By ANNETTE DUMONT.
A few years ago a lengthy discussion re
garding whether woman would over adopt
trousers closed with the decision that never
would woman consent to abandon the skirt.
Eo sm-e was this well known author of his
ground that ho declared woman's entrance
tnto certain kinds of work would depend
largely upon the answer to the question,
"Can Bho do It in skirts?" Of course, it
Isn't nice to poke in any one's face thoso
three most annoying words in the lan
guage. "But you said." Still we're only
human, and it's rather Interesting- to Imag
ine this clothes prophet's bewilderment as
ho sees woman, under tho stress of war,
hastening into all kinds of occupations
with no more thought of her skirts than
tho rescuer gives to his clothes when he
I plunges into tho water after a drowning
In dealing with tho clothes question the
Romans seem to havo displayed moro in
telligence than has ever been displayed
since. The Roman men wore quite well
Katfsficd with their long skirted togas
tmtil tho trousered barbarians from the
north came down upon them. They soon
saw the military advantage In a garb that
gave the legs full play. So in their mili
tary expeditions Into Gaul they donned the
trousers. When they returned to the social
life of Rome they resumed the toga.
Why should not tho character of a man's
or woman s work determine what he or
she shall wear? Clothes were made for
man, and not man for clothes. We have
truly drifted far from this common sonse
view, however, when we declare that a
woman-an active, intelligent human
bclng-must be guided In what she doos by
whether she can do It in skirts or not.
Not Immodent, Merely Sensible.
Trousers immodest? How can any gar
ment be Immodest If chosen as a badge of
the kind of work you are doing? If women
arc making ammunition, guiding ploughs
and driving ambulances, surely there is no
question of immodesty In their donning
the garment best fitted to do that work
On tho other hand, what could be more
Immodest than to wear a particular gar
ment merely as a badge of sex? Shall a
woman wrap herself In swaddling clothes,,
llko an infant, to advertise that she is a
woman, and therefore a helpless creature,
fit only to be coddled and petted and
taken care of and hung as a millstone
around some man's neck? 'Perhaps this is
modest, but only In tho sense in .which a
petition in bankruptcy is modtst.
A short time ago, from the top of a
mountain. I watched a man and woman
picking their way up a narrow trail. The
woman fell so often she might almost as
well have climbed that steep ascent on her
hands and knees. When she reached the
I top ner rencn neois wore iwisiea ai ngnt
angles to her pumps. Her silk stockings
were torn. Her hands wore bleeding, and
her chic little hat was sltting,awry on her
head. Even ber face was twisted in a
painful attempt to look pleasant and to
enjoy these stretches of mountain, sky and
lake for which she had done all this climb
ing. As a matter of fact, at that particu-
IOne woman stated that her large con
tribution to war relief recently had been
made possible by the wearing of her old
clothes, all money which would ordinarily
have gone to tho dressmakers and millin
ers having been put into Red Cross work.
This is not intended as a plea, for all
women to give in this way, for were wo to
pursue such a practice without discrimina
tion, this country would face such a panic
as it has probably never before known.
The spirit that she displayed was ad
mirable, and In her caso it was the only
solution of the problem so many of us aro
facing how to carry our necessary ex
penses and yet do our part for the govern
ment. She had no great wealth to draw on, so
she did the only thing which seemed pos
sible to her. She wore her old clothes and
look tho money she otherwise would have
ncnt In th shons and with mantua mak-
Itrs and used It for her country.
Here and now it is not necessary to go
Into the economic problem which we arc
constantly facing and having to decide for
ourselves whether it is beat to savo money
or to spend money. Circumstances decide
this in a very large measure.
But one of the interesting things about
this woman is tho fact that never before
in all her life, according to her own testi
mony, had she folt so well dressed or been
so often congratulated on tho good appear
ance she made.
"I had never been a very careful person
about my dress," oho said. "Having al
ways had many duties that demanded time
and attention, I dressed, as I do most
things, In a semi-mechanical way.
"I put aside a certain amount each sea
Bon for clothes, and a certain amount of
timo was spent at tho milliner's and the
dressmaker's time that I begrudged, but
that I felt I must givo to making myself
presentable, Just a3 I must give a certain
amount of my time to my church duties
and to the routine of my household.
"Not being a beauty and nover having
WHEN CLOTHES CAW 6HELL NEVER. BE SATISFIED
MAK-" WF? "nOKL LIKE THi - vlTH A. PLAIM GAE LIKF THI?
Iar moment she would gladly havo ex
changed all these beauties of nature for a
good sized looking glass. Still, If virtue
Is Its own reward what a glow of solf
satlsfaction this woman must have been
experiencing, for she had, even to tho
point of martyrdom, upheld the honor of
our sex sho was wearing skirts!
Out They're Too Usrly, Entirely.
But, even If trousers should bo tried be
fore the bar of public opinion and ac
quitted of the charge of Immodesty, they
would still have another Indictment stand
ing against them they arc ugly, just plain
ugly. They are an offence to the eye.
Thev have no form or comeliness, and
when we see them there is no beauty to
cause U3 to desire them. They are awk
ward and 111 fitting. Thoy -do not look
well standing up, and they look worse sit
No, when it comes to beauty . trousers
haven't a leg to stand on. They may bo
tolerated as a garment of utility and ac
tivity, and in proportion as women are re
quired to become useful and active they
should not bo debarred from their use, but
if women do not koop the fires burning on
tho altar of beauty who will? Now that
nations have been forced to revert to the
pioneer stage of existence and fight the
battles of civilization all over again it is
but natural that .beauty and art should bo
lost sight of temporarily.. Beauty, like
truth, may bo crushed to earth, but it will
rise again, and when It docs it will bring
with it a vast array of beautiful silks and
satins, velvets, brocades and broadcloths,
organdie, cashmere, chiffon, lace, crepe
a t a, 1 A Tnv tvVi n t VmVO
unu luuitiu luwu.
trousers to do with these? Imagino a
Gainsborough, a Reynolds or a Romney
wasting hlB art in portraying all the
shlramerl.ig possibilities of the wonderful
satins if they were mado to stand up in
straight, cylindrical, stovo-pipo fashion in
the form of a pair of trousers.
But it is not only beauty that win pr-
I Home Renovation of Winter Wardrobe
cared much for tho moro frivolous side of
social life. I had never given a great deal
of thought to dress, other than always In
sisting upon having the best for my money.
I went to persons who wero recognized ao
at the head of the industries which they
represented, and the money I paW them
was not only for fabric and line, but for
their having mado a study of the things
which I had neglected.
"When, for the first tlrao in my life, I
turned my attention to economy in dress I
realized that I was totally Ignorant of
many things which I now know aro second
nature to most women.
"I had never cleaned or pressed a suit in
my life. I had never given any attention
to my wardrobe after It was once pur
chased, thinking these things beneath one
whose mind should c occupied with other
and more Important matters.
"Having decided to renovate my ward
robe, as I have always been thorough In
whatever I do, I went to an extreme, per-
Unrxr. In -Inn T V J
merly in the other.
"Hats were taken, out and freshened by
brushing, by placing a flower hero, putting
a band there, bending a shape or taking
off one trimming from one hat and shar
ing it with another.
"My shirtwaists and small accessories,
my gloves and boots and evening slippers
went through tho same process. As I
worked a great sonse of shame came over
me that I, who am supposed to bo a most
intelligent woman and one given to good
works, Bhould over havo allowed ao many X
useful things to accumulate, with no rec
ognition of their real value.
"That siege of renovation was one of the
mo3t fascinating and most useful periods
of my life. I learned many things besides
tho renovation of clothes, but this I did
learn with thoroughness.
"And, strango to ssy, never In my Ufo
had I over felt such a senso of being woll
dressed as when I put on one of my fur
bished up gowns and my mado over hat.
And one reason for tnm, of course, was the
senso that comes to us when wc havo ac
complished what we set out to do."
vent trousers from permanently usurping
the placo of evening gowns and daintj
negligees. Women are after all only the
pawns In the great chess game of clothes.
Tnolr demands for clothes and moro
clothes aro bulwarks In the commercial
world. It has said that the greatest
calamity which could bo conceived of at
befalling great populations would bo not
a sanguinary war, a desolating famine
or a deadly epidemic, but a revolution ir
fashion under which women should dress,
as men practically do, in one color of one
material. Many flourishing cities In
Europe, America, China, Japan and Indlo
would bo condemned by It to bankrupts
and starvation. It is not a question ol
.vhat women want to wear, but of what
manufacturers and tradespeople want
them to want. It is said the glove-fitting,
hobbled skirt, by its scantiness of material,
was responsible for one and a quarter
million of unemployed men and women
in American textile trades, and the stag
nation In French loom towns assumed tho
proportions of a panic.
So there is probably no cause for alarm
In the sudden craze for trousered effects
in the styles of women. The pendulum
will undoubtedly swing back again to o
happy medium, but It would seem as If
women could not do better than to Imi
tate the Romans In choosing clothes fit
tod to the kind of life thoy are leading,
to wear trousers while they do the work
that calls for trousers, but to return to
tho toga and tho skirt when they take
up the peculiar work of woman again
that of upholding tho beauty, grace and
charm of the world.
If you are not sure how to mako any
part of a garment you will savo time,
not by experimenting, but by looking at a
similar old garment. This applies partlcu
, larly to plackets, cuffs, collars and sim
Savo and uso leftover odd colors of scw-
Ing silk for basting ollk fabrics, satin, chif
fon, crepe, velvet and materials of that
sort. Sowing silk will not mark tho ma
terial, as will cotton thread.
Cut the basting threads In garments at
rather short Intervals boforo you attempt
to remove them. To pull the length of a
long basting thread from a garmont is
to risk tearing tho fabric or at least sep
arating the war and woof fibres. The
difference of time botween the two meth
ods is negligible.
When you hem uso a very fine needle
and thread appropriately flue ror tho ma
terial. The right side stitches will bo much
smaller than when the hemming is done
with a medium coarso needle, and the
norvous effort to keep tho stitches small
on the right side will bo greatly reduced.
When you basto use a long milliner's
needle. It Is a habit hard to acquire, but
one that will be very holpful when once
When you arc dressmnklng have plenty
of pins at hand. Dressmakers' slender
steel pins aro excellent for the purpose.
At any rate, buy pins so fine that they
will bo virtually useless . for other pur
poses. By using slender, extra sharp pins
you mark the fabric less.
When you work on black or dark fabrics
wear a white apron. Tho reflected light
will be of material help.
Save all selvages of Georgette crepe,
chiffon or fancy fine weaves. Tou can
make a novel and attractlvo finish by '
applying thorn as a tiny ruffle or by
leaving on the material in tho original
WAYS TO SAVE COAL.
Coal may be saved, says an expert, by
keeping an even fire so the rooms will not
At times when tho rooms are not oc
cupied, the heat should be shut off from
them, in case you use a furnace. Fires
should bo carefully banked at night, so
that they will not allow tho house to be
Coal should be put In often and In not
too large quantities at a time. Keep a
full bed of live coals constantly, but be
aroful not to overload the flro with too
nuch coal. If the furnace has an open,
coarso grate, use coarse coal. If It has
a fine grate, use fine coal.
It Is wasteful to throw largo, heavy
chunks of coal Into the furnace. The
lumps should not be larger than three or
four Inches in diameter. All largo pieces
should be broken. Frequent stirring, of
the fire is wasteful, as pieces only par
tially burned fall through the gratel
USE OF COLOR. -
Tho world Is wiser and better dressed
when tho great artists produce glorious
colors as accessories to gowns of sombre
tones. Even then there are a thousand
women who. go astray to a dozen who go
Tho holpful artists In dress will explain
to women with intelligent patience that
any kind of color can be managed In a
costume if It Is not placed next tb the
It Is for this reason, and this alone, that
thoso who deal In evening gowns have
made an artistic success In choosing the
most difficult color for the skin, if thoy so
wish, and then building a bodice of tulle
or crystals that rests against the skin of
the neck without doing it any harm.
Capable Women .and Their Doings I
The average pay of women typists in
England io $10 a week.
St. Paul cafes are prohibited from serv
ing liquor to womon.
Chineso brido always dresses in red.
England Is sending from 8,000 to 10.000
women workers to France every month.
Tacoma nurses, through their associa
tion, havo raised their rates $5 per week.
The Brooklyn Rapid
Transit Company .
now employs over fx , :. . "
fifty women a sub- . y- Mpe
way guards. . , '.
Girl bus drivers In' .' '' -Wft
London receive J2 por . ' d&ffif&P
day, with an addi- , M- 'S'il
tional war bonus of W'si, cSSs-'
$1.25 weekly. fflfc Wm.
Ruth Law, ihedar- ViMtf'
ing a'lu ik. is sock- itTifi,
Jng a commission as , 6k,rK jlv&W
a flyor in tho United '-3rfHM
Over 22.000 women IPM
in Delawaro have al- (fSwlg;
ready signed a petl- ai-.-kwg
tlon which opposes' eT TZr H
woman suffrage TH LAW
Women aro being suggested to take the
place of male agents who are called away
It took over fifty-three years for tho
womon of New York to secure tho right
Over soventy-fivo per cent of the schpol
teachers In the United States are womon.
The old time custom of binding tho feet
of Chineso women Is still practised In
some parts of China.
Thirty womon, wearing khaki trousers,
aro working as pipe fitters in a large New
Jersey chemical plant
1 The Women's Club in Wheeling, W. Va..
voted against tho holding of a Wagnorian
oftcra In that city.
Automobile factories In tho United States
are training women to take the places of
men who are called away to war.
Miss Gcnoviovc Ward, an English ac
tress, Is still appearing beforo tho public
at the ago of eighty.
Several Fronch girls are now In this
country Instructing our girls how to cut,
sow and gluo balloon cloth.
Out of the 120 girls who took examina
tions for messengers in the government
scrvico at Washington, ninety-seven quali
fied. For the first time since its organization,
tho National Security Lcaguo has elected
two women to Its membership,
Mrs. Maurice Hcwlitt, wife of the novel
ist. Is the first woman to become head of
an aeroplane factory In Great Britain.
Under the provisions of the War Times
Election net, over 1.000.000 Canadian women
will bo entitled to vote in tho coming elec
tions. Lady Byng. wife of the famous British
General who battered down a strong sec
tion of the Hlndenburg line, Is a well
known writer of fiction.
The womon of Grand Rapids, Mich.,
havo served daily 1.300 meals, Including
breakfasts, dinners and suppers, to the
soldiors camped near them.
The overseas relief division of the Na
tional League for Women's Service will
I SUFFRACE 1 SUFFRACE VyysUFFliAGE 'A'WSSF miScWSURsaFFRACE
The Legislature of Ohio gave Pres
idential suffrage to women, but the
male voters took it away at the polls
on November 6, 1917.
The Legislature of Indiana gave
nine-tenths full suffrage to women.
The Supreme Court took away mu
nicipal and special suffrage. Among
conflicting reports it seems as if
Presidential suffrage .also is lost.
Wherever a State has more than
one kind of suffrage that of the
highest denomination only is re
corded. States where women may vote on
school questions: Connecticut, Del
aware, Kentucky, Massachusetts,
Minnesota, Mississippi, New Hamp
shire, New J crsey, New Mexico, Ok
lahoma, South Dakota, "Wisconsin.
Where women may vote on bond
issues or taxation and library trus
tees: Iowa, Louisiana and Minne
sota. Whero the municipal suffrage
Florida Aurantia and Cocoa, in
Brevard county; Orange City and
Delnnd, in Volusio county; West
Palm Beach, in Palm Beach county;
Fellsmere, in St. Lucie county; Flor
ence Villa, Polk county; Moore Ha
ven, De Soto county; Clearwater,
Ohio Lakewood, East Cleveland,
North Carolina Wrightsville.
Delaware Milford, Newark.
Tennessee Lookout Mountain,
havo charge of the task of roplanting tho WM
ruined orchards In France. jB
Mrs. J. Borden Harriman, of Now York. MM
has started on a special tour of British B
munition factories to see how the British H
women are "doing their bit." Mg
Miss J"lla Rtcketts, who is running for MF
tho presidency of the senior class of tho ML
University of Chicago, Is the first girl M
to bo a candidate for that office. v
Tho womon of the State of Guanana- B
Juato, Mexico, havo been given the. prlv- K
liege of voting on all municipal matters. JwJS
tho only restriction being that they must AM
bo of good character. Jm
Simmons College, B
one of the first
jjKgSOggpTCgl women's colleges in
HmySM as head of tho New
teKA"P!ERlNE6.DAVl!j York Parole Board H
to become general
secretary of the Rockefellor Bureau of
Under the recent decision of tho British
House of Commons, only married women
whoso husbands are also entitled to muni- Bk
clpal franchise, are entitled to tho right Hv
to vote in municipal matters, BS
The Banana's Place on the Table K
Uso bananas to cuj? the high cost of
living ! There was a time when the
banana was considered 'a luxury and
something to be locked in the cupboard.
That time has passed.
It is one of the most nutritious foods,
and can be used in many ways.. If wo
come to bread tickets the banana may
very largely satisfy our craving for
It Is one of the few fruits that con
tain distinctive nutritive qualities. It is
really a "food fruit" and, from the stand
point of its food value, can bo placed in
the samo class with potatoes, rice and
Bananas aro rich In nutriment, and be
cause of their little cost may be used ex
tensively by the poor. They would also
be more generally consumed if house
wives recognized how very much "meat"
Is contained In them.
In the Jungles of Africa whole tribes
subsist principally on bananas as their
staple food; their bread, in fact.
A savago will carry seventy-five pounds'
'.eight on his head, marching from sun
rise to sundown on a diet of six bananas
a day to sustain a man doing the hardest
kind of work head portage over the one
man wide paths of the almost inaccessible
jungles. And the mon arc the hardiest
creatures you can imagine.
The banana Is ono of the great curios
ities of the vcgotablc kingdom. One can
not call It a tree, a bush, a shrub, an
horb or a vegetable, but a herbaceous
plant with the status of a tree.
Though there is no woody fibre In any
part of its structure, it sometimes grows
as tall as thirty feet, and the bunches of
fruit arc so prolific that they are oftenor
heavier than the stalks that support them.
Of all fruits, the banana yields most
food per acre. It yields forty times more
by weight than tho potato, and as much
as 133 times more than wheat
It is immune from disease of any sort,
and no Insect will attack it.
Nervous people often reject bananas that
have become brown and mushy, fearing
microbes; but such fear Is needless.
Tho banana is fit to eat as soon as it
has lost all the green color, and remains
fit, no matter how black It may be. so long
as the akin Is unbroken, for until the
latter occurs there can be no admission
of air and no decomposition.
Bananas may be prepared In various
ways. Thoy can be fried and baked, and
those not yet quite ripe are in this way
rendered more digestible. Cut In slices,
they may be baked In pastry and also be
used in omelets.
They are likewise very useful In the form
of flour. This is also easily digested, al
though it is made from the unripe fruit.
When a very ripe banana is laid upon a
hot stove In the skin It develops a won-
derful aroma and tho fruit becomes par-
tlally dissolved. Such a remarkably useful m-
fruit is surely deserving of great atten-
It Is often used for medicinal purposes.
In the French colonies in Cochln-China It
is prepared in the form of a purfeo for this m:
use. It is endowed with a remedial action
which Is not only beneficial in intestinal
affections but In a healthy person as well.
In much tho same way as a rice diet,
and tho use of much sugar In general.
bananas have an antiseptic action upon B
the decomposition products In tho intes- B
tine, and may also prevent their develop.
But simply on account of Its dlgestl- fmW
billty and great nutritive value the banana lB.
is a very healthful food. BE
One of the most popular, nutrltltous, B
toothsome ar.d widely used food staples Bf
in our national dietary is this humble (
Hecipes for War Time Sweets V
Behold one of our war time problems
has been solved ! Wo housewives need not
hear our families' cries for "cake" in vain.
Through necessity some of our women, as
well as some of our Allies, have invented
these war time recipes. Try some of
- Camp Cake.
Boat to a cream half a cupful of buttor
substitute-with three-quarters of a cupful,
of brpwn sugar; add two cupfuls of self-
raising flour, two eggs well beaten, half a
cupful of milk and half a cupful of Sul- A
tana raisins. J
-r'el I '
oreasoa paper and'hak i
oven for fifty mmutK a moderat I
Bed Cross War Cake. , I
M . together two cupfuls of brown su- I
,ar' two cuP'"Is of hot water two I
spoonfuls of lard nn , tabIe" 1
and one M . "e tcsPnful of salt I
Boil t0 - mT," "flded ra,ans. -
Sin to bubble. When ' they be- h ;
spoonful or ound'dovone'to116
tH of ground cinnamon . teaspoon- .
f'ur and one teasnonVS" cupful 1 '
solved in onr til spoonf"l of soda di?- '
Bake for for?y.f : ,
This cako was lTtCS, ln a slow ovon
recipe-by a NelSkS tho
the benefit of i f ddsCroBS ChaPter
Cream onT'J' I '
.-ith one cupful of broL UUer SUbst,tut -
esss. well beaten th Qdd two & i
?l milk, two cunfu,sUoTer! f Q CUP"
Jour, oMeupiulo?ttSnrSt0lfwb I
teaapoonfuls of bakw ed wlth' fo"r -
floured oak, ti d"'hV , and S
This bread does n BS t
sary it wJ1, kc es "ot so moldv if K
of tho breads Lnf,no mn' It N' B
Prisoners abroad"1 aad'tS the' B s
Cream haluTof K I
with three-quarters of a SUbItute B h
Jjr; add one teaspoonfu, f brown B t(
tract and throeuartS U0r Van,,,a " B S
"ofMr B P
cuPtu, or add olh0 .
-lohKrsrf - : ft f
wel on the ton nd.Ied orange O"',pjaco M tc
ovon for oneotfr? bake odo?atS B
This cako i3 nft "rate MB; u.
parties given to th" at fnrcvvpll ., Be:
they leave for the TrUT' bS cl
Chinese 'Mats B fj
For your flower pots wh B
nese mats? They Why nt use Chi '4 B a'
f cs and m lovely Tolor0lJnd' ov2 B "
beautifully embroidered . - ' B !
ncse mat. standing upon a Chj- E en