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The Evening standard. (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, September 10, 1910, Part Two, Image 15

Image and text provided by University of Utah, Marriott Library

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058397/1910-09-10/ed-1/seq-15/

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I s
I I96 STANDARD 1 j t f
II
1 tl I gARI
I
r i BY MRS A T ASHMORE I
OTEL life has changed consider
l H ably of late > oars and with the
immense many storied hotels has i
come naturally a greater for
I mality which shows Its effect in I
a much increased elaboration of
3rc5s ns well ns a lack of the old sim
plicity of the life of the hotel eomlnuintv
i
< = f It was only n few years ago when in even
tho most fashionable hotel at n populai
I watering place n low nit evening gown j
t h made the wearer conspicuous but today
p reffulatjon evening dress Is worn nil 1
Kether
A
There is a difference in cut however be
e tween a ball gown a dinner frock and the
i style of costume that is in vojue for even
I ing wear at n hotel or restaurant Need
lcs to state there is a decidedly extensive
i wnrdrobo required in these days by the
s woman who cnrcs to be even suitably let
i i alone smartly gowned for evening gayety i
Nor is there the least use in attempting1 to
I
get through tho autumn with the evening
gowns of the previous summer or spring
1
Styles have in every way altered > com
pletely and hotel and restaurant life is 1
nowadays liO decided a feature of autumn
existence that any such economy is out
a
of the question
Nowhere perhaps are the same number
f
of cTcning gowns required as arc ncccs
Y
rCi nary for oven a short sojourn at a large
hotel There must be variety that
j S uo one of the costumes shall become I
I 4 marked There must bo one or more real
ball dresses for an occasional dance and
J it is always safest to have at baud one
gown somewhat sinVpler and perhaps high
1 at the throat should the convention of the
l community demand a less elaborate tos
tunic for Sunday evening wear
I
Exaggerated Dutch Yoke
1 r I The favorite cut of the simple dinner
dreSs for hotel or restaurant is an exaggerated
I S
I I 1 gerated Dutch yoke A sfjuarc joku is I
I t generally becoming while the U shape i
L I is somewhat smarter the V in front
1 r 1 JI l I Millets cut quite low and filled in with chif
fon being teldom worn nowadays A nar
r t i row U or siuure decolletege with a deep
i < but narrow V nt the back IS smart and
fIo I indeed the onjt slender V line at tho back I
s I j r is extremely pretty ram matter what the
11i1 I
1 t 1 exact cut of the dCcollctegc in front
It Tho chief difference perhaps between I
° the cut of n ball gown and of a dinner
drcds is that the shoulder line of the lat
St ter is borne inchps vidi r than of the con 1
ventional evening dress Even when the
bodice is cut quite low at the front and
1
r r I back the line will still be quite distinct
bet + eeuitbc two modes WL n It is iin
r I possible to put an oblonc yoke deep I
r j l I e I enough in front to give a good line then j
I I the dCcollctege can always bo tilled in I
I I with llcsh colored tulle which can he
I I
I J I used in combination with any shade and
T will make the gown mote becoming 1
i I The sleeves arejinlt length or KOUIC i
I 1 what shorter ill the majority of reitau
rant gowns Full length sleeves of trans
1 I t I I parent net or chiffon are more or less in
I fashion it all tImes < ln a simple evening
gown but the style ih never a really
I I I popular one because < o invariably unln1
coining The long sleeves 1 ccin specially j
il1 suiteil to the present style of evening
1 dress with tho skirt OBcapiin the ground
I I Although to be seen ill homo few modeIs
r I I I is not likely to be general adopted for
1 = evening wear
J Xot for ntauy n day has there been so
I ti Front likelihood nf Abu abort skirt euptur
iug the stronghold of K > pular approval ns
I I Js the cane al thy present moment Again
I Iud again tins it been tried to foist the
+ j short shirt evening gown under the guise
of novelty but always has it been de
I feated prlncipullyby the disapproval
t of the American Woman So close Ls the
i short skirt victory that already a train
I I gown looks strangely out of date almost
awkwnrjl in faci Imp even the most elab
I orate gown must show no real fall of ma
I turiil For a restaurant or simple dinner
I I gown the newest fashion dicla u that
I the texture hull escape the floor by at
i lunat an inch but the independent vouinii
t
who has the coinago to dUoard the fur
be oniiig will allow of nt least a two inch
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GIy trlt < t COSmryiL wliu t 311 ROIIlFItY
j
N 5 INEXQ U IS ITE
7 IT KT I 1J S
VENING GOWN
mOTEL and Restaurant Life Demands I
y Variety of Elaborate Costumes w I
afar
t
Gown of Shaded Rose Tulle
Pliotoby JLclii
Photo Copyright 1010 by Ronllinjcr
1 Exclusive CVinyrlsht 1110 Sur Took
llorild Compare
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S
vpnlf r jr > ti
Cream Liberty Costume + t
with Jet Embro i d e r e d
Tunic
Plioto Copvrlelil 1010 Dv ncutllnccr
Exclusive Oonyrlrht 1010 NOT fork
IJcrnJil Cnmrwny
train in buck For the tall and slender or
I for one of petite build a short round
narrow skirt may be quaint or pictur
esquu but for all others the round skirt
which touches 119 floor is infinitely boiler
Whereas most street costumes give a
distinctly straight up and down effect to
the wearer all evening gowns on the
contrary emphasize round lines mid 111
card the too straight and severe The
I
bolt is round and the waist linc is round
I ill contrast to time flat appearance lately
so much to be envied The skirt is dis i
I tinctly round in every line if this expres
sion is permissible The trimming may I
be laid from waist to hem but there is
always a band or many bands of lace or I
ribbon or some other trimming to give I
I the bolster picture The plain flat baud I
oC a heavy texture placed some six to I
I ten inches up the width of n skirt hub
been too much used to remain in vogue I
but the same effect is retained neverthe
less by different means of manipulating
tlip fabric and its trimming
I tr
OMT who rofiM to yield to the
WOMKX skirt craze are now to be con
Y gratulutcd on their discretion for
there seems to bo no doubt if one is to
judge from the Idlest models from the
best modistes that this eccentric fashion
will loon be mach modifier For those
who were not to wise however and who
I
I Skirts arc all very much trimmed jot
at present tthe style demands it and tin
I materials employed make it possible I
i Ribbon and bands of silk i ud > satin with I I
I falls and flounce of lice are all used I
but the plain rather full skirl lied inj
j by a lund or bands of satin is already i
out of dale the fusliun WIN ton mach j
copied as a method of trnnsfoitning a cos I
tunic of u former season into in up to date j
creation elaborate underskirt with II
an overskirt of plain lace net or chiffoiij
is still seen bit there is a return to thei
trimmed skirt rather than tin veiled J
effect so abnormally populir during the j
last seasoji
Chiffon embroidered net figured eiepe
softest brocade and the many two toned I
silks are 1111 in vogue for the ictauranl j
gown Xo stiff or unduly heavy tevuro8 I
nu employed for Iherc K considerable
draping in the newest models und 110 I
draped model is pnulfeabU ill a thick or
unwieldy material Shirring anal gather I
dog oC the inn terial about the waist audi
have indulged in hobble skirts to a degree
I that will make remodelling necessary
j there is no reason to feel lon nenst f pej
chilly if they belong to he happily eman
cipated class who are able to mnketheir
dii Hollies for there are innumerable
i ways in which the hobble skirt may bed
i freed from its disfiguring bonds and this
I
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I as t I II 1 l it ar 1
7
nriTF SILK VOIIK Cow
ihipjf are hlw js n on modelsfor shos
I of alufiilur tffth lint no mailer how
I Sliiider ihe vfSi Lr only a gauze or lX
I truincly soft fjJlI iiible fabric CIIJI
i sbii rednnd > teAtiurcil iifd still rniain bf
I coming i tt tl5 fiKiiiic The under 1In
inistat itll Jots bi perfeetly kilted no
I matter how fajiparentlv loose and carl
lessly full the chiffon dress appcip
Many a lOOS softly liapel gown forfeits
I all its charm because sulheient are has
not been Galen with the lining lor nil
mnteriuh and all styles of drcss tin
favorite lining is today an eceptionnll
soft pliablii satin Cream or pale ron
color is the liyorite one fur a gown that
is not of tnuiHiiciI texture but the
dolicjite pink lining is also fjfciuciHlv
ttsetj even with such colors as dark blue
or mauve chiffon
Soft and Thin Textures
The majoriti of evening gowns this
autumn are of lIch extremclv soft and
thin texture Hint the wearing of an 1111
den > in id oblisalory For this ieason r
most of the newer gowns show an nt
inched petlicpsit or lining perfectly
straight and plain and titling berle to I
the ligun than any sepirale start could j
be made to do j
I
In coluparisou with the ehibnrUu skirls
I
of the momuiHj the Inxlicos are all some
whit Dimple in cITLoctif not in detail
Often these will be but a wide belt or
half wnisi of the same material is the I I
without too much dilliculty
Overskirts appear on many of the new
models and the narrow skirt of satin
velvet or silk either to match the gown
or Us garniture may readily be substi
tuted The tijHil hand or scarf around
the iKjttom of tin skirl may be removed
and a series of lucks or narrow bands
which do not hold in time skirt Substituted
There are a few new designs for the
hobble skirt but these are so much modi
fied thai they are niilly not al all like
those which originally appeared in ef
fect and it is necessary to go to as batch
trouble to enlarge the skirt and the band
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titdlyTr QV CIty TrIllVr AND UII1KKON
I r V1Rlt II II l1 JIh J
I
Cream Colored Voile Gown with GtJIU
and Pearl Embroideries
Tlioto ConTDRht 1010 br ncutlinsor
Exclusive Or > vrebt 1010 New York
IlrrnlJ Company
skirl while the upper part will be of
quite foreign texture lace chiffon or for
e utple stain vvith a net skirt The
shouldor must be as flat us it can be
made to appear and the sleeve is never an
entire piece by itself Hither it conuxid
with the under part of the bodice forming
a mandarin arm hole or i1o the sKeve
is carried up over the shoulder to the col
lur band Ileac again the becoming must I
be carefully studied and the size of the 1I
sleeve and arm hole uioJilJoOor increased
according to time individual
At at restaurant dark colors predom
inate anting the womens gowns and of
them all it is the black gowns which are
j = 7 = = =
F ASH I 0 N D ETA I LS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
i around the bottom in order to bring them
up to date ib il would be to make an
underskirt or a series of tucks to lake
the place of the hobble
i The present lassie in skirts shows a
straight up and down effect and even in
Frame of the newest models n little Doping
I out tqwaid the fool this for everyday
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Gown of Rose Crepe
I I Photo Copyri
xclute Cup Uri
gowns while for more ilabornlo costumes
I the skirts are munch mor ample iu effect
AJI the nndvr kirL Aeries of tucks of other
substitution for the wind which hobbles
the skirt may be of eoiitmstiu material
to the relit of the skyt here i > no dltti
oiiliv on this score amid the home rqmu
mnker may proceed to the moth ntinn
of her gowns with 1 fair show pf succeo
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to 9
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I LR1IDnD TIWTIOllt COlCJlB
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Apricot Voile Gown with Gold
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Embroidery
Photo Cbpvrirfit Wit hr R ntllnrrr
sclosivo Onnyriclit 1010 New 1orJC
Ilcrild Company
l ty ratrn
Eicloslvc ropyrlclitiniO
ec york Herald f ompanr
usseline Gown0
by tiiirnrrr
111 =
with Tunique oF Black Voile
ght 010 by neulUtJ cr
nlllIl limb xc + r lorkl
mid Company
almost invariably sniartewt The black
dress iw0f course relieved by n touch ot
color in the embroideries or ill the girdle
or eluo is largely combined with white
hut It IS he black and white rather than
white with black which is in vogue All
bluek trimmed willl jet and costly whito
lace just near the throat Is umarl for
j older women while the npto of cense or
i vivid blue in the embroidery or chiffon
draping will keep a black gown sulll
really youthful for the youngest bride
I
Dark Hues Predominate
I Hotel life calls for light colors In the
eveuing and svinetliinlr more effective than
tin all black gown Electric blue Nome
few shades of green golden yellow Jill
the unusual tones of rod and pink ute all
seen but itjs the darker hue which pre
dominate although one all white gown is
included in every autumn outfit A white
gown how over not to be too youthful iu
effect require now to he most iIaliorate
ttlmotft uvurtrimmed Silver embroidery
relieves the too dull while and perhaps a
note of color may be introduced in the I
clrdle White chiffon combined will i
chub Ls at oncu given character for ex r
ample by a wide girdle of flowered chif
fon the girdle forming in fact half the 1
bodice The chiffon or silk belt should f4
show Color or coimiderablu depth of tour
blue purple mid rose with porhup u line
of black through tho desigu
Artificial llowura are used more tluiu
for eomu time put to give a touch of
SnSsh to an evening gown A cluster 01
orchids at the belt or n nosegay of gar
Ithnll or wnUe roles grwilly relieves ill
jbleninily of anrtll black gown and If
permissible even in tirst mourn D1 <
For nn all white gown jL nccet5 e1rJ
eharnctSr II dcrp ppL
ch will be glyen by a
rqI si lunch of pojiimii or tl cluster of
sweet peas fastened at the halt J U ft 11
the natural flowers would be worn
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