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The Evening standard. (Ogden City, Utah) 1910-1913, October 05, 1912, Image 9

Image and text provided by University of Utah, Marriott Library

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058397/1912-10-05/ed-1/seq-9/

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I J JL jTL 1 jU vJ A 1 JTjL Iv i u .A .X vJ III V' J il J H
Xnw York, Saturday.
2S&CST lns becD c,carly iDd
' fcr$ cated at the dressraal.en
iflgQ I rjy and S1,0P openings I
' H(Lfnokr-J' 4 01iV 0lk at urnPCl
tisro of tlic winter drcssc
nd elaborate coats. Outside of the classii
t Mailor made suit for morning wear ft 5s t
bc found in some fornv In overy model o:
fashionable pretensions. Sometimes il
takes a second glance to discover the folds,
1 io cunningly urc they disposed, placed to
. i.wk,
1 jshu cachet to the gown lather than to
emphasize the drapery.
' I An cquallv strong fashion trend is to be
J"1 Snotod in the color schemes- Ued has.
"J Iconic out in the coldr gamut ns a domi-j
lunnt note; not the classic cciise and
' American Beauty loncs of the- preceding
season, but wonderful new reds from a
J) ffashion point of view reds that arci
found In India, Persia an- Jjp.in, and
, Shave not been worn In Europe and
j America for vcars.
1 J For the ouugor stt of women audi
j girls they are used boldly for daytime
fdressos, suits and coats, In elaborate!
fftcrnoon and evening gowns; discreetly
combined with softening colors beautiful
i- models have been designed for the older
f woman.
n Color contrasts in gowns and even in
v tailored suits aic the rule for the season.
t Tim contrast may be of equal or nf dis
sf similar proportions. et It will lend a de
c.lightftil note of gaiety to winter clothes.
D Tt means the return of the three color
' harmony for which French designers have
L always been famous. Take, for instance,
one of the prettiest of the imported au
' tunin models seen In New York, a dress
that was both discreet and charming. It
was of navy blue chiffon draped over a
white cliarmcusc slip. Stock, surplice,
rrvcrs and cuff extensions were of Per
sian red chiffon, with a plcot edge, and
the third color was a pale putty gray that
made a sash of taffeta, high on one side,
low on the other, where it lied into a
sngb bow with rather short cnd3.
"laupe cnamicuse wa3 anollur gown, on
I very simple lines, the drapery being a
.separate breadth of the goods starting
from the belt at one side and draped so
that it fell obliquely ncioss the skirt,
catching it in by ts folds at the knee and
pissing up across the fron. to a little one
side of the centre, vhere it tucked under
the belt only to fall in a long tassellcd end.
l-n cmeiald green vest and a black velvet
belt made (he thicc color combination re
quired. I
Peau do souiis and drap velours are the
two ttool materials used, and come In all
'the brilliant colors: but velvet icmains a
fuvoiitc (heps faluic, though the real nov
elty is clours cpingle. This httcr mate
rial is an ottomau v.eac that has the
bheen of vehet Striped velvets, not too
strongly contrasting in color, are usedi
both for gowns and wraps.
One of the Paris models shown on this
page is of this striped velvet, a pietty
soft combination stripe of pastel gray
and black, Itcers and cuffs arc of white
moire; the joke and ruffles of -wmtc tulle.
The apron panel in front extends up onto
the blouse in a belt at the sides and back.i
and a row of ball buttons follows this on-'
tire edge: at tlo apron edge it may be
unbuttoned, as it is fastened to the skirt!
by cord loops. The ikut shows a simple
i draping the apron edge a fold of satin
iThe other velvet fioek is on much more
'simple lines of black velvet with the
- W'-'ht 11
; i ; imwm 'fed
J.f Velvet, Flowers and Lace Cover the Velvet Train.
Maison Jenny,
i. Photo Cop right, 1012. by Reutliugor
1 I Erclnnive Ccrpyrichr. 1012. New York Herald Cwiip,my
'' " ' '
"OB c-1-1
-31''
if ? -"Kyi St
Several Materials Combined Trim This Train.
Pliolo Copjrljjht, lUU:, ny HentliORvr
Krdnnlfrc Orjjnclit, JQW, Ncv Xaii. Hcrakl Company
overskirt drawn up into a few folds in
front. "White moire is fashioned into
ideeply pointed collar and cuffs, and the
'jabot of Mnlincss is In the new two
pointed form.
J In models without drnperj there arc well
placed pleats in front, and between then. Is
placed the esl of color, so smart this sea
son Plained models like this one seem to
hae the long fitted sleeve with a wrist
l utile, while the draped dresjes retain the
elbow or three-quarter length These ests,
I of bright red or green satin, aic placed
igcnprall.N between faring pleats, and often
.serve as tho dress opening, being but
toned thiough the centre. It U quite cer
tain that this vest will be the stjle note
of the simple ouq piece dresses. Tt is
often crossed by a matching sash belt,
sometimes wide, sometimes narrow, viith
Mali ends
Under the fur pud vehct coats the silk
cashmere frocks vill be worn throughout
the wiuter. This material is heavier than
channelise but ory much like it, and
has a new buede finish. Ilerr the new,
Cue, flat mechanical plcatings may be
used, hung fioui skirt yokes, as founda
tion skirts for overdraper.. which is
inclined to onesidedness In many models:
these pleats make a better balance than
would plain material. Materials already
pleated maybe bought in the Xew York
shops, both the accordiou and the me
chanical variety. Very often the ac
cordion Is used only on tho skirt, In the
manner spoken of.
In many of the one piece frocks the
waist line is noticeably lougci, whether
tho trinsitlon is by a -wide belt or one of
the extension blouse effects. This in
stinctively lengthens the skirt, which
clears the ground only by an inch or two.
Another way that the dropping of the
waist line is disguised Is by the slight
blouslng of the material oor the helt.
This oecuis in many of the mont recent
designs, perhaps suggested by drapery. In
the tailored snltT the long waist line Is
even more markeefby traversing ceams
and strappings, even by r slight Mousing
of certain panels, like the back or the
front. One of the most successful models
has this blouslng In a wide back panel,
and It gives a wonderfully good blouse
line to 6omc figures, Cbpeclally those that
are short waist cd.
There are two rarher distinct novelties
in the cut of :4drls One gives a very
curved outliut nt the Bides by folding the
material so as to cut a deep V in it, seam
5ng up this V, which extenda half way
down the skirt length, and leaving in the
baggy fulness, which falls Into shallow
folds ard ghes a cuivlng outline to tbe
silhouette. Otherwise tho skirt is plain.
The other, also from one of the best
Paris houses, Is fluted to knee depth, and
a aslilike drapery, pleated into the waist
line in the back. Is dravn forward Into a
drapery that is held by the scant. This is
drapery as applied to cloth. Nothing yet
has been found to replace tho Robespierre
collar as a dress finish, unless it is the
tulle ruche with a strip of fur through
'the centre. For those who cannot stnnd
the thickness this gives in spite of the
diaphanousncss of the tulle, this ruche
sometimes starts from the sides of the
neck, only the stock part, exteuding en
tirely around made of a folded band of
satin, being ribbon that ties in three loops
and two ends at the back, the ends
shoulder depth.
Trimmed Trains for Evening
Gowns.
With the leturning trains on elaborate
afternoon and cening gowns has reap
peared one of the fmolous fashions of tho
seventies, the trimmed train Styles this
autumn have been In a most transitional
stage and ore yet borrowing details from
manj historical eras, and while tending
toward the classic Greek, the real puritj
of line, fashion Is modernized by many de
tails taken at random from different
epochs.
Among tlicac style details, many of which
arc culled from the dress fashions that
followed the civil war, is the trimmed
liain revived b. two authoritative de
signers. And chairalnglj novel it is, as will
be seen in two of the models gnen here
in the eveniDg gown, of which two views
arc given, old rose clvet and tiny flower
wreaths arc used for its decoration, match-!
ing in color the figure in the brocade, the
groundwork of which is white. The
foundation skirt I of black crCpc chiffon
over white charraeuse satin. Orcr one
shoulder passes draped while net, trans
plant over a chiffon lining; this appar
ently emerges below the brocade oversklrt,
following one edge of it and continuing
the line made by tie dull gold galloon and
artistic East Indian tawelg.
Pink, white and hlack as a color scheme,
rightly arranged, is one of the most effec
tive evening color combinations that could
bo desired when the stronger contrasts are
to be aoidcd.
The other evening gown has thl; same
blending of thiec colors, black, white and
0 mm? - Hi PMm h I
8fets? ' WMf m "-: --sii I
S iff -"'V - --mWt w dh A I
A View Showing the Complete Train Trimming., I
liaison Jenny. H
TPhoto Copyright. 1512. by Reutlingor I
12.clusue Cop.Migbt. 1012. New York Herald Company
green thgbcautiful Empire tone. The
green is used transparently as an over
drapery a triangular back panel,
weighted by siher fringe, brought for
waid and caught to an Oriental square of
embroidery placed low in the front The
GOWNS SCANT AT HEM, WIDER ABOVE
GONE arc the tube shaped fashionable
gowns of la6t season. They arc re
placed this autumn by dresses that
give graceful, vnselile curves to the femi
nine figure. Draperies arc the cause of the
vanishing, as they bring more ruateiial
into the skirt, break severe outlines and
give a fulness that Is accented by the way
the gown is caught in more closely about
the knees or ankles ' So tigbtlj, in fact,
i
is this done that the wearer would be un
able to take a step were it not for slashed
hems or cunningly added trains.
Though the waist hoc is far from being
long, still it is descending slowly and uu
oitcntatiously. Its desccut is covered by
tlic blousiug of the waist or a whb belt
The short slccc dies hard and is used in
ccn the lattst Paiisiun models whuie
the frock is elaborate enough to warrant
it or the owner has a pretty forearm.
In fact, ncTcr buo fashions been so
pronouncedly feminine. A cuiious rever
sion toward frholous prettincss they arc
lu this day of common sense, yet France
his proved that pielly women can be
brainy, .vet charmiugly feminine in their
dress. Tlicic is no leason to suppose this
may not be equully tiuc of American wom
en. Certainly for social occasions a wom
an cunnot bu too nttractiiely gowned, just
as ehc cannot be too conservatively dressed
for certain workaday pursuits.
The gowns bkctchid here are up to dale
models suited to tho new velvets, bro
cades and crepe chilfous. One especial
1, of velvet, has its long iimplc drapery
hues caught II at ankle depth Ly a
buckle of metal damask; auothcr like
buckle is iiaed as a slide on tho wide
wrinkled belt. The skirt Is slit up at the
bem and has also a uanow train, giving
more freedom to take a long, though not
' rapid, step; however, quick mo-veinoutw
would hardly harmonize with this, typo of
dress. A filmy matching ruche of pleated
net is worn as a neck finish when a low
collar is unbecoming.
Brocade is fashionable in dark as well
as light colors, particularly taupe, Bur
gundy and chestnut brown.
In tho lighter tones there are pearl
gray, Gobelin blue and King Charles pink,.
A very new color combination Li brown
brocade, with shamrock green chiffon
sash, cufts and sleeves ; blonde lace
jabots and ruffles, crystal buttons. The
soft coided silk toque introduces atbird
color in an Indian red wing ornament,
brightening up the bombrones of the
brown and green w ith its crisp color note.
Striking lines for 11 dinner gow;u, Intro
ducing Chantllly lace and the new ambei
embroidery, Ls shown in the amber ci3po
jown sketched. Fioui the fiout view
the wearer seems to be swathed about the
feet by a satin band, but it is both slashed
and trained at the back. The chiffon tui
bun, matching, is caught by a satin buckle
and a black aigiettc gives the neceasarj
contrast.
A velvet overdress and a chiffon bkirt,
both black, the hitter posed over white, is
de&jgued on divcigiug jet fa.shionable
lines. V'a of Persian embroidery arc in
set on tho waist and a tiny veot matches"
one of the bright Eastern colors. The
new poke hh iped hat in velvet and chif
fon with "fantaisie" feulhcr is prettily in
keeping with the style of the gown.
The last and the most quaintly lovely
Is of white silk voilo with a mauve .bro
caded figure, caught in en the skirt by a
wide velvet ribbon wound about the fig
ure. A eallor collar of the velvet and the
elbow sleeves are edged with fine chiffon
pleating. .Mauve velvet and chiffon
composes the original bonnet, tiimmed
with one of the new long slender feather
quill. " i
gown Itself, of accordion plaited black H
tulle over a while satin slip, is banded
with plaited ruffles of the net. The
Oriental ornament and hands arc close em-
bro'derj in brilliant tones of worsted.
('ovcring the end of tho train completely
,is a large bow-shaped ornament, made of
the ."cvcral different materials used in the
gown the green and the black tulle
plaited, a bit of passementric ornament
and a fold of greenish metallic cloth M
all caught together through the centre
with a satin ribbon. lengthening the
waist line surreptitiously, the wide satin
bnlt shows a fold of black velvet ribbon
above, with a large velvet flower cover-
in the ends at one side of the frc- l
Some of the other new models hare H
more conservative train trimming, as in II
a dianer gown with a white accordion H
plaited chiffon foundation. Over black H
lace is placed a white lace, both Chantilly, II
the white showing beyond the edges oC H
tho black, and both with surplice waist H
lines above and diverging polonaise lines H
below the bolt. At the back a white vcl- II
vet sash is draped from woist to almost H
knee depth, catching up the laces into u H
drapery, then passing under the whito H
lace and down to the train end. II
V's of lace arc placed in triangular and H
dfauond shape on trains when lace is a H
feature of the evening gown, and In the II
oblong trains, made by a separate panel
extending over the skirt, a straight band
of fur trims the nanow edge. H
Trains themselves drog from twelve io H
twenty-four Inches on the ground. In IH
fact, often the gown trains a bit all H
oroond, unlev? it is cnt In the peculiar
curved slash in front. As the trains are I
often composed of several layers of ma- H
tcrlal not caught together, they soon roll I
into a lopeliLe strand, artiBtic yet licrlsh- H
able.
All evening gowns, with few exceptions,
whether of transpaient or non-trans- H
parent material, aro transjiarent about H
the shoulder. The gowns themselves are I
not cut very low, but have a cuilously I
undressed effect. I
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m Mi I
W- &K'"M I
iPi KZt'ifr-VX- JT ii!l H
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