Newspaper Page Text
A PAGE FOR WOMEN
LATEST NOVELTIES FROM PARIS.
OF INTEREST TO
The trousseaux of the Easter brides is
one of the principal topics of conversation
at present, so the modistes are designing
tome of the loveliest gowns imaginable for
their benefit, and never have the brides
maids worn more charming toilettes. 4
One wedding-dress, just completed, is of
the richest white satin, trimmed with point
lace and strings of the bridal flower. It
has a full court train of brocaded white
satin. Another wedding gown will be of
ivory-white satin adorned with very ex
quisite pearl embroidery on the bodice,
while rich old Spanish lace will appear on
the waist and skirt.
At a swell wedding just before Lent the
bridesmaids' costumes were very much ad
mired. They consisted of plain, rich white
satin skirts and Louis XV coats of heavy
■white brocade, trimmed with antique
rhine-stone buttons ana pendants set in
in gold. The hats were of white velvet
trimmed with white ostrich feathers and
pink roses. The bouquets were of pink
roses. The coats showed a lining of rose
A bride who will be married very quietly
intends to wear a gray crepon made in a
strictly simple style, with a crush collar of
violet velvet. The hat to be worn with
this costume is a French creation in tones
of gray and violet. The dress is lined
throughout with a very handsome taffeta
Violet is so becoming to this little woman
that she has ordered a gown in a violet
shade of face cloth. The yoke and waist
•will be trimmed with an applique of jet
passementerie, the overbodice being of
velvet and edged with mink tail. The
fckirt is full and absolutely plain.
She has a charming French cape of gray
velvet with an applique of white satin, on
which the velvet is laid in a design ; the
satin is covered all over with jet. There
are large arm holes, and the arm is cov
ered with a new-fashioned sleeve, appar
ently a cape.
Another bride has a pretty cape of black
satin lined with ermine, the ermine show
ing itself in a high collar as a lining. The
shoulders are outlined with very handsome
A very youthful bride has just received a
little gown in green satin with pink rib
bons. The skirt is cut in the newest styie,
and its only trimming is a great bow of
the ribbon at the side of the front. The
bodice is arranged with chiffon and the
sleeves have a cape-like epaulette of lace.
She also has a bodice of white chiffon em
broidered in silver sequins. A crescent of
wild roses is arranged as an epaulette over
each shoulder, and the balloon sleeves
have, nestling in their snowy billows, a
few roses with their foliage. The soft
One of the gown* worn at the last drauing.rooin. ond wax designed and made by a London houte. Black satin petticoat, with a jeweled
butterfly evtbroidrrcd at the foot in ro*c and copper sequin.'. The bodice has a similar butterfly, which reappears on the black satin sleeves.
The train is cut en priuceme of English brocade. Lining of ,shot roue, and copper.
whiteness of the bodice vanishes into a sort
of sheath of pink satin, cut in V form back
and front and outlined with silver em
broidery. The skirt is of pink satin ex
actly matching the shade of the roses. It
is lined with white silk.
Underwear trimmed with quantities of
dainty lure are great temptations to the
maiden in search of her trousseau, but
take my advice, and unless you are going
to have a vrry comfortable yearly income
avoid garments which will require always
to be sent to the best French laundries, for
lace requires delicate handling to look
well. A friend of mine who was married a
few months ago suggested this remark of
mine, for when she married Bhe had sets of
the daintiest underwear you can conceive
of, for although she knew, when she se
lected her things, that her future husband
had only a small salary it never occurred
to her that such elaborately trimmed gar-
WEDDING, TRAVELING AND BRIDESMAIDS' COSTI'VES.
ments would be inappropriate; however
you can imagine her consternation at re
ceiving a bill for over $20 for one month's !
wash from the French laundry for her j
husband and herself, but she is a most !
sensible woman, so she at once purchased \
some more useful articles.
Fashions change so frequently that the
wise parents will simply give what they
consider right to their "daughter for the
bridal outfit, allowing her to either spend
it all at once, or to purchase what is need
ful for immediate use, laying aside the j
remainder, as it is wiser to nave four or five i
very stylish gowns at once, and add to the j
wardrobe as the dress styles change.
A few days ago I saw for one of the sea- j
son's debutantes a striped white crepon with
a full-blouse effect bodice. The lining is of |
glace silk and a great sash of white moire, j
and a bunch of the palest pink ro.ses com
plete a charming oostume, and one far i
from inexpensive in spite^of its simplicity.
Ribbons will be greatly used this year if
one can judge from the immense varieties
of^ new styles now shown. Chine ribbons
with shadowy flowers, which appear to be i
gradually fading into the background and j
edged with a border of satin in a contrasting
hhade, are among the newest seen. A
cream-white ribbon, with a pattern of pale
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH S4, 1895,
pink roses edged with a border of sky blue,
is very pretty. Dark red roses on a white
ground with a dark blue border is an odd
ribbon. Brocaded ribbons appear in many
colors, some in contrasting shades. Dres
den bouquets on grounds of pale blue or
white are very chic, and will ue used with
good effect on summer gowns.
Ribbons in rich dark colors, striped,
plaited and striped, are to be had in such
great varieties that almost any of the
spring dress materials can easily be
matched. Kibbons in plain colors will be
still used, especially moire ribbon. In
place of the much-used stock collar broad
four-inch ribbon with very narrow stripes,
on a white or colored ground, can be sub
stituted. It is fastened on the under side
in front, is passed around the throat and
tied in a wide bow at the back, arranging
itself naturally in folds by the process.
This sort of collar takes from one yard to a
yard and a quarter.
At the Comedy Theater, London, some
beautiful gowns* have lately been worn in
"A Leader of Men." Miss Marion Terry
wore in the second act a gown of silver
gray silk crepon, made en princesse, fas
tened on the left side with two large but
tons of rhine-stones. Empire scarf of am
ber silk. Fall of Tosca beads in the bodice.
Large niched sleeves, draped and slashed
with cream-embroidered chiffon. The
sleeves are somewhat elaborate but very
becoming to the wearer, who also appeared
in the same play in a costume of rich white
satin. The bodice with shoulder Btraps
and sprays of jeweled steel embroidery,
fastened with paste buttons over a soft full
vest of white chiffon. The large satin
sleeves were slashed with turned-back
pieces of embroidery and chiffon flounces.
A long fringe of steel and jewels adorned
the left side.
In the third act her cloak of electric blue
fancy satin cloth, finely pleated and
trimmed with cut jet, was admired by
We are dividing our affections between
the cape and the pelisse style. Unques
tionably, though, the former is the easiest
to adjust. The latter carries more ele
gance in its train, and the sleeves of these
latter cloaks are made so enormous that
the difficulties of getting into them may
be minimized. The one I give a sketch of
is of a light pearl tinted brocade, with a
design of lilac and roses upon its surface.
It is lined with pale yellow satin, and
| trimmed down one side with sable, while
j sable also edges the hem, and forms the
! cuffs, conveniently cut in an open, gaunt
j let shape, to the "full sleeves. This is as
simple to put on as any long cloak with
sleeves can be, but yet I doubt the wearer
I will require considerable assistance to get
into it with any degree of comfort. i?o
after all 1 must acknowledge that the cape
shapes should reign prime favorites
for ail occasions which demand a
1 wrap, but those for evening should, when
j possible, be lined with fur, as it is unques
] tionablv desirable. A white satin or bro
caded lining may bo permitted to take its
place, being, of course, duly provided witli
an interlining of dornette.
A black satin cloak, with colored fiowers
upon it, lined with pale pink silk, trimmed
'• around the neck with a ruche of chiffon,
which falls with long ends to the hem, and
. i 3 decorated on either side of the throat
with bunches of pink roses, is a very pleas
The late cool weather does not dispose
i one to think much of the dainty gowns
which so soon must be fashioned "for the
; summer months. Our shops are exhibit
ing nainsooks, mulls, Trish linens, pique,
duck, dimity and lawns, from which will
be evolved most captivating dresses, which
will be further beautified with laces and
ribbons. The sleeves will, 1 many of them,
be made en gigot, with great ingenuity in
i letting in lace entre-deux, managing the
! fullness in one great puff, or in two wings,
|or in odd draperies. The bodices all have
j the blouse effect, the same as the winter
| one. and the white laces and passemen
' terios come to replace those jetted and
■ spangled. The transparent materials are
marvels of loveliness. The white skirts are
like sunset cloudy and light as air, for the
j linings are separate, and the silk petticoat
over which they are to float is an elaborate
affair of laces,"flounces and choux of rib
bon built up into stiffness. The corsage
! and sleeves are specimens of the lace
i maker's art.
There will be seen sashes of all widths,
bows or rosettes. Tablier effects on sides
of front breadth made by keys of ribbons
in long scarf ends. Contrasts of color will
be the rule, and combinations of three and
four colors the rage, but these ventures
need a true eye for colors, and no small
amount of taste must be exercised, other
wise the effect will be something too dread
ful for words. There has just arrived from
Paris what is spoken of as "a delightful
stuff," a mohair with a slight white ligure
interwoven all over like watering, but shot
in what without doul't. is the newest color
of the day, a firelike effect resembling
flame, produced by a combination of red
and tawney yellow. This mohair wears
well, was worn some thirty years ago, and
looks so silky that it is difficult to believe
it to be composed entirely oi goat's hair.
It will make up, if placed in the hands of
a skillful modiste, into beautiful dresses.
Anexqusite new trimming for evening
cloaks and gowns is a sort of lace lappeting
with both sides alike; it is composed of a
lace insertion with straight edges, an ap
plique ot beautiful embroidery in the form
of corn flowers on either side to be sewu
lightly down on any material; the effect is
Another lovely trimming consists of lace
leaflets, like those employed for Honiton,
starting from a center line of peach-colored
metal paillettes. This particular design
was used on a green striped silk, which
shaded into peach color.
We hear that the fashion of the imme
diate future is beetle-wing effect, which we
shall see in millinery embroideries of all
kinds and dress trimmings'.
For skirts there are also some narrow
panels prepared of jet and various colored
beads, iridescent or otherwise. The design
of many of these is of some trailing flower
with its foliage. For a white satin evening
dress there is a stole of gold and crystal
beads, intermixed with large pearl drops
and small groupings of tiny amethyst
cabochons. Chains of crystal, held in
place by medallions of pearl and fold,
simulate epaulettes. Another of pearls
and steel lits around the armholes by
means of a narrow creseut. For half
mourning this device is most effectively
carried out in jet and steel. The blouse
effects so much used to-day give ample
opportunity to the skillful dressmaker lor
Cycling Among Society Women.
Only to read the chronicles of the daily
press one gathers how much the pastime
of cycling has drifted into vogue during
the last twelve months. There is con
stantly an allusion to some well-known
dame dv monde having made such :i jour
ney on the stfel which neither eats nor
sleeps, or some remark anent the purchase
of a bicycle de luxe by Lady . Time
was when wheeling fell under the con
demning ringer of Mrs. Grundy. When
Bodice of chiffon in green, worn above skirt of pale pink striped with green.
men first rode velocipedes women would
have been thought outrageous had they
attempted to mount them. Then came the
bicycle for the male sex, and a concession
to the ladies in the form of the tricycle.
Perhaps the next step toward feminine in
dependence in the wheeling world was the
"bicycle made for two," and apres cela
woman took the reins, or", rather, the brake,
into* her own hands, and rode an individ
ual machine. Ladies' cycling clubs and
schools of instruction have sprung up in
various parts of the kingdom, and at the
latter, in some af the smart quarters of the
metropolis, over 150 members of the aris
tocracy take lessons weekly; and now, in
addition to the many papers devoted to
sport, and to cycling in particular, there is
to be one entirely for the wheeling mem
bers of the fair sex, entitled The Lady Cy
Of royal ladies we have some notabia
examples in Queen Margherita of Italy
This cape is of a soft shade of gray velvet,
with a cape-let of white cloth richly embroid
ered in gray, black and silver threads. It is
edged with cut jet, and each randy ke is tipped
with a jet tassel. Tlie high collar has an edge
of jet. Rose or green silk fir lining.
who herself is an enthusiastic wheel
woman, indulging often in the pastime
and giving it in every way so much of her
regal patrouage that the cycling club
Veloce of Milan recently presented her
with a golden bicj'cle, which is said to be
the first in existence. The Duchess d' Aosta
should rank as a pioneer among women
bicyclists, as .she was one of the first to
persuade the Italian nobility to adopt this
One of the latest bridal co-Humes designed by a famous house.
means of locomotion. The young Queen
of Holland finds pleasure and relaxation
in rides on her tricycle in the grounds of
the palace at Het-Loo, while our own Prin
cesses of Wales frequently ride theirs at
Randringhani. When the J'rincess anil her
daughters Vere last in Denmark they rode
tandem tricycles in the parks of Bernstoff
and Charlottenberg, and they evince as
much pleasure in the exercise as they do in
angling, skating and boating, for all of
which they have much enthusiasm.
Many of our society women have pro
vided themselves with tricycles de luxe,
some being made of ivory, with polished
Theater Cape. Black satin, lined with ermine.
steel, others of silver plate and oxidized
Lady Dudley's is particularly beautiful,
being enameled with white and lined
with blue and gold, the handles being ni
real ivory. As a rule, Lady Dudley uses a
Raglan fadies' safety. Queen Margherita,
as do her husband and son, exercises on an
English-made machine, the Quinton being
the one thus favored by the Italian roy
alties. Almost every county, and a great
number of towns, have now their estab
lished ladies' cycling club ; one of the best
of these is the Coventry, captained by Miss
i E. H. Thomas, the daughter of Captain
Thomas, J. P. This lady brings both ex
perience and enthusiasm to bear on her
I riding; she was one of the founders and
I chief organizers of her club, and has gained
many members by her persistent eulogiz
ing of the art of cycling. Lady Margaret
Spicer, the Duchess of Westmoreland, and
Miss Musgrave always use the Rover.
Bantam is also a great favorite with the
ladies, who are adopting it very freely;
but perhaps the most popular "steel steed"
with them is the Beeston Humber, which
is ridden by most of our aristocratic
cyclistes. The Duchess of Portland, the
Duchess of Westmoreland, the Duchess of
Sutherland, Lady de Grey, Lady Wolver
ton, Lady Ashburton, Lady Paget, Lady
Edward Somerset, Lady de Trafford, Lady
Young, Lady Mabel Howard, Lady Lamp
son and the Baroness de Tnyll are all
patronesses of this tricycle. Miss Mabel
Besant, the popular author's sister, is an
inveterate cyclist, thinking nothing of
enjoying a thirty or even forty miles' spin.
Lady Jeune is a very practical wheel
woman, doing much of her shopping on
her machine, and advising every one to
become amateurs of this mode of loco-
At one of the schools where ladies are
taught tne professor has instituted a
musical bicycle ride, which includes some
very charming movements, such as cir
cling, crossing and fancy figuring. At
another establishment the pupils are al
lowed to use up-to-date pneumatic-tired
machines, each being so adjusted as to suit
the characteristics of the individual rider.
On the whole, ladies are very quick in
learning the exercise, oftentimes mastering
it in six lessons. In a school it is easier to
acquire the knack of balancing and of
turning quickly than out in the open.
Among the most recent recruits to the fas
cinating and fashionable pastime are Lady
Mills, Lady Colin Campbell, the Duchess
of Manchester, Lady Norreys, Lady Lur
gan,-the Countess of Rosslyn, Sir Gerald
Portal's widow, Lady Florence Bourjce,
Lady Fairburn, Lady George Hamilton,
Lady Emily Kingscote, Hon. Mrs. Ellis
and many others.
The Duchess of Portland rides very well
and takes great pleasure in the exercise.
Her preference is for a Rayleigh.
In France we found the wife and the
children of the late President Carnot cy
cling with much ease and grace, and many
of the foremost society women in Paris are
noted cyclists. In the Bois de Boulogne
daily there are dozens of fair exponents of
the art of wheeling to be seen ; and in
Brussels the scene of the same exercise is
the Bois de la Cambre, where we find
Mme. Lambert de Rothschild frequently
riding. At Biarritz several English ladies
are enjoying cycling, among them being
Miss Walpofe, Miss Matilda Daniell and
Miss MacNaugton. The Comtcsse de Lun
burg is another wheelwoman at this favor
ite resort. Mrs. Asquith and the Hon.
Mrs. Leslie (Lady Randolph Churchill's
sister) are other lady cyclist of note. Mrs.
Jay and Mrs. Vanderbilt are members of
the Michaux Cycling Club in New York,
which is one of "the smartest in existence.
— ■»• — ♦ — •
They Watch Royalty.
Empress Eugene is, of all the royal an/1
distinguished personages now assembled
in the south of France for the purpose of
escaping the rigors of a northern winter,
the only one whom the Government does
not deem it necessary to have watched
both by day and by night by detectives.
It affects to see in her nothing more than a
lady of rank, and recognizes in her no other
title or dignity than that which she has
assumed— that of Comtesse de Pierrefonds.
She is left free to come and <ro as she Hkcs,
and no police in and out of uniform are
assigned to the duty of keeping watch over
her villa at Cap Martin. But she is the
sole visitor of royal rank who enjoys this
immunity, and with her exception every
scion of a reigning house, from the very
movement of setting foot on French soil, is
shadowed by a perfect crowd .of members
of the secret police, who exercise a surveil
lance that only ceases with the departure
of the illustrious guest.
THE LAST SITTING.
Deep in the portrait's oaken frame
Is furven, "Amourette,"
The artist's fanciful, sneer name,
For this high-born coquette,
As fragile, pink and while a ilanie
As Dresden statuette.
The monarch of a gilded court
She swayed from youth to att«;
'Tis said, her witty, last retort
Has place in Confrere's page.
Her favor was of vast import
To soldier, priest and sage.
''This, my last sitting, fond upstart,"
(His check knows her caress.)
"iVlmt shapes do them the arras part?"
Love of a king, they press
The steel homo to thy painter's heart.
Quail, proud queen of finesse!
The tale of old; but mi\rk awhile,
The prophecy of pain
Writ on a. face horn to beguile,
Seductive, cold and v»ln,
But deep eyes mock her rose-leaf smile
And hint' a sad disdain.
Ah ! apple-blossom Amourette,
Tho records of thy fame,
Love of a kitiK, high-born coquette,
Live through an artist's name.
Notes About Women.
The late Lady Charlotte Schreiber of
London, of fan "and porcelain collecting
fame, was besides a great patroness of the
London cabmen. They were indebted to
her many years ago as the donor of the
cabman's shelters, outside the Langham
Hotel, of which there are forty. Her con
stant solicitude for the welfare of the cab
men who used that shelter took a practical
form in the knitting of and presenting to
hundreds of other "cabbies a thick, sub
stantial woolen muffler, a most comfort
able addition to their outfit. Once a year
she invited about 200 to a substantial tea
According to Mr. Cross, in his memoir
of his wife, the reason she took the name
of George Eliot was. as she explains it,
"because George was Mr. Lewes' Christian
name, and Eliot was a- good, mouth-filling,
easily pronounced word."
Tea jacket of dahlia-colored velvet, with the
revers turned back with pale blue satin, a
draper;/ of lace forming plaits at either cor
ner, while the lace is also joined together — to
make a shirt front. The sleeves are trans
parent from elbow to wrist, and made of the
Dinner dress for young matron. This gown
is composed of black velvet, with trimmings of
rich jet. A scarf of yellow crepe de Chine is
draped acroas the bodice and falls in !,,,,■/
ends at the side, yellow accord ion- plaited
crepe for sleeves, with cream lace fall inn <>rer
the bare shoulders.
What is more beautiful than
the soft, dimpled, rose-leaf cheeks
of a precious little baby ? Every
woman will gladly admit — noth-
ing. What would you give to
have just such a complexion ?
I can distinctly hear the echo of
every woman's answer — every-
thing I possess. Now, my dear
friend, let me tell you a little
secret that is not generally
known. Mme. Yale's Complex-
ion Cream will give you just
such a complexion as babies
have. Clear pink and white,
fine-grained and beautiful — just
such complexions as inspire the
divine feeling of love and make
sweethearts and husbands yearn
for the tempting kiss. Mme.
Yale attributes the beauty of
her complexion to the constant
use of this delicious cream. Her
fame has been heralded from
ocean to ocean by all the lead-
ing newspapers of the world,
who publicly declare her to be
the most beautiful woman on
Yale's Almond Blossom Cream
is pure. It is cleansing, heal-
ing and refreshing. Try a jar
and be convinced and beautified
at the same time. Price $1.
For sale by druggists and deal-
ers everywhere, or
MMX. 91. YALE, Temple of Beauty,
140 stiit*. St., Chicago.
KKDINCTON Si CO., Wholesale Drug-
gists, San Francisco, are supplying the
dealers of the Pacific Coast with all of
A Skin of Beauty Is a Joy Forever.
DR. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL
CREAM, or MAGICAL BEAHTIUKK.
3 ='— i^eSlS'fcw Removes Tan. Pimples, Freck-
-3" fcs2»?*2j_ ' Motn Patches. Hash and
iisj fsw^^sJir^ /ffS skin diseases, and
* £ S"" icS^f r^wk blemish on
5 -'•§ ftff§Fj& jejft Jfvj.'jbpniuy, arm detit i
aj)S_ t|[C (** Bf-ij detection. On its
„.£« KM "*7 \.^/ virtues it has
(jjo> XS «y (~< stood the test of
3 = o 1 "^"^^ 44 years, no other
s*fc ,_^/\ *"^^^+. ¥71 hr.s, and is so '•
-I.'-i r' TiL W ( harmless we taste
/CW " £r\ ' \r'nt\ \ '* to be * ure '' '■
/tv _^J'-fv' i ' 4 \ properly made.
fr^SWf*^ \>^l T< I \ Accept no coun-
/'J'udS^r Mi 'a \t erteit of similar
Ar jfevlfi^ /AY Jname. The (iiv
( ■ - S^Z'^TA 1 *^*-' tinpuished Dr. L.
i / ' --6%. »**. A. . vi ' >> said to
k. <S- _f*\ %^r >w a lady of the haut-
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recommend •Uniirautl'* Cream' at the Itait harmful
of all Skin preparations." One bottle will last six
months, using it every day. Also Poudre Subtlls
removes superfluous hair without injury to the
KERDT.HOPKIXS, Prop 37 Great Jones st.,N.Y.
For sale by all Druggists and Fancy Goods Deal-
ers throughout the U. s., Canadas and Europe:
tSf Beware of Base imitations. $1000 Reward
for arrest and proof of any one selling the same.
BY A THOROUGH KNOWLEDGE OF THE
Xj natural laws which govern the operations of
digestion and nutrition, and by a careful applica-
tion of the tine properties of well-selected Cocoa.
Mr Epps has provided for our breakfast and supper
a delicately flavored beverage, which may save us
many heavy doctors' bills. It is by the judicious
use of such articles of diet that a constitution may
be gradually built up until strong enough to resist
every tendency to disease. Hundreds of subtle
maladies are Moating around us, ready to attack
wherever there is a weak point. We may escape
many a fatal shaft by keeping ourselves well forti-
fied with pure blood and a properly nourished
frame."— Civil Service Gaiette.
Made slmplp with boiling water or milk. Sold
only in half-pound tins, by grocers, labeled thus:
JAMES KPPS & CO., Ltd., Homoeopathic
Chemists, London, England. .<
Weekly Call, $1.50 per Tear