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title: 'The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, May 19, 1895, Page 19, Image 19',
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Gown of very handsome black silk crepon,
with dark green satin bows and rosettes. The
uoiit it of the richest combination of twisted
cords of green and black silk. The effect is
Odd, is it not, how some women will
send back a bodice half a dozen times to
their dressmakers on account of a slight
imperfection, and yet will wear false fronts
three shades lighter than their own hair,
and yet appear totally oblivious of the
ridiculous appearance they present ? False
fronts are doubtless blessines when the
hair becomes too thin, but look to it that
that they do not remain yonthful in ap
pearance while the growing hair shows un
mistakable traces of age.
All fashion notes nowadays allude to
the constant use of laces, and assuredly
nothing is more effective for adornment
Gown of black crepon, combined with chine silk.
than lace or fur, but some people will in
sist on using very cheap productions with
handsome materials. Now, lam thinking
of a really handsome gown of peau de soie
worn by a matron here. Her bonnet has
Paris stamped on it, her gloves are fault
less, but this entire costume is spoiled by
a cape-like arrangement of common orient
al lace which naturally looks 50 per cent
ruore ordinary, because everything else is
in such good taste. I would" rather have
one or two yards of really appropriate lace
than a dozen of ordinary stuff.
[ have seen many of the white pique
dresses for summer wear, and tney are in
deed dainty ana pretty when worn with a
white sailor, which should have a wide
white band, and white ties and a white
sunshade. Long gloves of white chamois
are in keeping. "We all know that white
pujue was worn all last summer East, and
this year it is predicted that tailor gowns
of white flannel will be the swellest seen,
but as for that a eown of white cloth,
tailor made, will be the swellest possible
seaside costwne for some time to come as
such costumes can be afforded by com-
Stylish Day Goun.—Th* skirt is made in
the new faun crepon, fastening over the bodice
only at the buck, mid having a black satin
waistband and a diglu indication of a basque
shaped to the hips. The bodice is made of a
new crepe printed in a Cashmerian design of
many charmivy colorings, in which red,
mauve, light green and several other tones
combine. It has a lace jabot, and the cut of
the sleeve is quite new. The capes that fall
over it soften the, fullness of Oie puff, caught
up in unexpected placets, thus giving addi
tional grace. The front of the bodice is spe
cially noticeable with the pointed jacket piece
falling over the waistband.
A Page For Women.
paratively few, such a gown being a costly
affair, The very best of white cloth or
flannel must be used over glace or taffeta
silk, and a first-class tailor must handle it.
With care this toilet may be worn a
dozen times, then its beauty is gone for
ever, as after being cleansed it never has
the same appearance, so I shall advocate
perfectly made pique dresses, for they do
up most beautifully and suit the average
Have you seen the contrivances for the
sleeves of wash waists ? If you have not let
me advise you to invest at once, as they
are on sale here, cost $1, and look like lit
tle bustles. Having tried them myself I
do not hesitate to say they are a boon and
The corrert canary and maize colored
gloves, bound with black kid and button
ing witli from three to four good sized but
tons, are also on the counters.
Much is thought about gown 9 for the
sweet girl graduates, and the best authori
ties advocate dainty crepons, muslins or
organdies, of course, but dainty silks
with a white ground, covered with
choice blossoms, are being much used for
college graduates as presumably they are
about to make their debuts and such
gowns are more useful than muslins,
etc., under the circumstances. Muslins,
organdies and lawns are charmingly pretty,
made up with the wide godeted skirts and
round waists and appropriate ribbons,
when worn over colored "silks. Two or
three silk skirts or waists will make the
foundation for many changes. The silk
skirt should be godeted and almost if not
quite as wide as the muslin one.
Pretty gown of fine flannel, relieved with
bows of currant-red velvet at the neck, waist
A dear little blonde has one of
pale blue, another of lavender, over
wl , I 'ch she will wear half a dozen
white dresses. It is not absolutely neces
sary to have the skirt of silk as cambric
will do, but the waist lining must be of
silk or the effect is lost. Very yellow Va
lenceinnos lace is the race; it is to figure on
dead white, a chic combination.
Lay in a supply of prcttv crush collars
and waistbands. They will be welcome
additions this "white summer" to almost
If you are going to a warm place a pair
or so of summer corsets are indispensable;
especially if you are at all stout and intend
to go in for bathing they are most useful.
A much-sought-for fabric this summer is
ecru batiste, which, while light and trans
parent, is made heavier by the cordlike
stripes which form the patterns. These
are in groups of tiny lines in dark blue or
red, edged with white. Other patterns
have dark blue or scarlet lines alternated
with white less than half an inch apart
Others have single lines of red edged on
each side with white. The shoes for
summer wear are mostly of black and col
ored undressed kid, sometimes with pat
ent leather fixings, but more frequently
self-trimmed. The toes are not quite so
pointed and the Louis Quinze heel has
given way to the more comfortable
broader and much lower heel, which wili
give the wearer a far better carriage if long
walks are to be indulged in. Black, russet,
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 19, 1895.
Tan cloth costume, with closely braided
vest and cuffs, Zouave bodice and folded vel
vet waistbelt. Tan straw hat, with velvet
trimmings and argus quilL
gray and tan are the usual colors for walk
ing ties. Those of gray (suede kid with
toes and heels of patent leather are very
handsome. A dark russet-colored Blucher
tie looks exceedingly well on the street.
As russet harmonizes with most gowns
it is a good color for a summer shoe for
out-of-door wear. Gray suede is pretty,
but too easily soiled. "Patent-leather ties
for street wear are always in excellent
style and give a dainty finish to a pretty
toilet. Much in vogue are black kid,
with fixings of patent-leather. White doe
skin, with patent-leather fixings, are
shown for country wear with light sum
mer dresses. They are novelties, and, as
you nan imagine, rather striking.
Silk stockings are considerably reduced
in price, so will be very generally worn.
They are shown in all colors, ahd any
gown can be readily matched. For $2 50
per pair may be had "stockings of the finest
silk, in black and colors, with vertical
stripes of white. While others are em
broidered with tiny white dots, so even
our stockings must have the prevailing
touch of white.
Beautiful silken stockings, with inser
tions of point and Brussels lace set in on
the instep and front, readily bring from $15
to $40 per pair, so one can understand eas
ily why the stockings of a recent bride,
the daughter of a capitalist, came to only
$325 50. I only hope she has a pretty foot,
as such lovely hosiery would only call at
tention to a ugly flat"foot.
Opal tints in satin are in high favor at
present. One gown lately worn by an
American beauty in Paris at the opera was
of this hue, simply trimmed with very
beautifully embroidered chiffon, whicL
French Tailor Gown.— The full skirt is
trimmed with parallel strips of the same cloth
that composes the costume, which is in this
case a beautiful shade of fawn. The skirt is
very full. Two haiuhome'brcnze buttons add
much to the effect. The collar is of a rich
shade of brown velvet.
Toilet of mousscline de sow. Pale mauve in color. Accordion-pleated over glace silk.
Very fine lace appears on the bottom of the skirt and the graceful sleeves have two lines of in
sertion. A long tash of green ribbon has long ends and two rosettes in front.
Second costume is of black faille. The skirl perfectly plaiu. The skeves are large and
balloon-like. The waist has trimmings of wide white lace insertion and a very handsome
fringe of black cut jet.
was a changeable opera color; the only or
naments were the fateful stones. Skirts,
unless embroidered, remain untrimmed,
with but few exceptions. White moire
striped makes a handsome gown. One
gown, much commented on, of tnis silk,
had the skirt surrounded, at the waist, by
tabs of black lace, worked in steel, with an
applique of white lace flowers, laid on a
flame-colored silk sash uniting the skirt
over the bodice, which was of the moire,
covered with the black lace, a touch of the
flame color appearing in front, and, being
a French gown, a description does not do
Tulle is again to the front. One of the
latest ball dresses of pale-green satin has a
triple frill of it, ed^ed with saAin rouleaux
as high aa the knee on each side and a
waterfall at the back. The bodice is
tiimmed with the same and a bunch of
greenish-white lilac. The bodice ends at
the waist and fastens, as so many of the
new models do, at the back.
A dinner toilet from one of New
York's cleverest designers is very charm
ing — the waist of white satin, covered with
white tulle, the sleeves enormous, opening
outside to show the wearer's beautiful
arms from the shoulder. The full pouch
front is of the satin. The skirt is of the
tulle accordion pleated over the satin.
This will be worn by one of our buds dur
ing the summer.
Another gown deserves mention, being a
white Grismonda, veiled with pink tulle,
the skirt trimmed with large rosettes of
tulle at the sides. The bodice is covered
with tulle, worked in pearls; the sleeve 3
are like a ballet-girl's skirt, frill upon
frill. Duchess de Brabant roses are to be
worn to complete this fetching costume.
1 am very weary of writing aboutcrepons.
Tea gown of pale heliotrope ondine silk, trimmed with deep cream guipure, and rosettes and
streamers of satin ribbon to match.
However, they continue such favorites and
are indeed so appropriate for summer wear
that one cannot wonder. East, black and
cedar colors are said to be the favorites,
but navy-blue takes a front rank, asmade
up with shot silk it is effective.
Sets of collar and cuffs, made in fine
white muslin edged with a narrow row of
white lace, are called the "Puritan."
A very useful dress is made of black and
green taffeta — skirt and sleeves of the black,
bodice of pale green stripped with bands
of jet. A girdle and "tab' r also of jet com
A simple gown for a young girl is of
cardinal crepon. Well litted bodice, with
pouch front of muslin trimmed with very
yellow Valenciennes lace, roll-collarjof the
same combination, full godeted skirt, large
white straw hat trimmed with mossgreen
watered ribbon and two large bunches of
either cherries or currants complete a very
The New Princess Robe. — Havana veiling,
bound and trimTned with applique in Emi
nence velvet, studded and outlined with jet
picturesque gown. Ecru gloves and
black patent-leather ties and black silk
stockings should be worn. It is a mistake
to purchase bright-colored gloves, which
are nightmares to people of taste.
I have just read a description of a gown
which is so excellent that I shall quote :
"It is of gray waved silk crepon, with skirt
of generous amplitude and simplicity as
well as perfect hanging;. Corsage of a bro
cade where green, mulberry-red and white
were woven into odd quaintness and
beauty. The back was a smooth fit and
the fronts had little fullness. A broad,
white satin ribbon design, worked in
white pearls and Hzard-green spangles, or
namented the center from collar-band to
waist, where it was finished by a tied bow
and short embroidered ends" The skirt
girdle was of blacK satin with bow at back.
The sleeves were the great feature and gave
a cachet view to the gown quite original.
They were cut in part circiilar, extremely
flowing, fullness drawn up tight on shoul
ders, so that they hung like a mantle to
tne elbow. A stole of the same brocade,
falling to the knees, was fitted to the neck
and shoulders and trimmed with a broad
black lace niching edged with yellow lace
beading. The ends of the stole had a
plaited fall of lace, with same beading
finish. Yellow primroses in bunches were
on either side of the ruche, fastening in,
In Paris the hair is worn very fluffy,
much curled and puffed, while the New
York tendency is to have the hair glossy,
the result of much brushing, and coiled
smoothly, while the front only is most be
comingly curled or waved, when the
severely simple style is too trying, but the
old style of leaving a small roll of hair in
front is coming back again. The New
York girl is a very healthy looking young
woman, with her bright, natural color and
her face free from all traces of cosmetics,
but her skin does not rival that of her
California sister in beauty. Marcella.
REASON, FOLLY AND BEAUTY.
Reason and Folly and Beanty, they say,
Went on a party of pleasure one day.
Arountl the maid.
The bells of his cap rung merrily ont,
• While Reason took
To his sermon- book—
Oh, which was the plcasanter no one need doubt,
Which was the pleasanter no one need doubt.
Beauty, who likes to be thought very sage,
Turned for a momeut to Reason's dull page;
Till Folly said,
"Look here, sweet maid."
The sight of his cap brought her back to herself,
While Reason read
His leaves of lead.
With no one to mind him, poor, sensible elf 1
No; no one to mind him, poor, sensible elf!
When Reason grew jealous of Folly's gay cap —
Had he that on he her heart might entrap—
"There it is,"
Quoth Folly, "Old Quiz."
(Folly was always good-natured, 'tis said.)
"Under the sun
There's no such fun
As Reason with my cap and bells on his head ;
Reason with my cap and bells on his bead."
But Reason the headdress so awkwardly wore
That Beauty now liked him still less than before,
While Folly took
Old Reason's book
And twisted tho leaves in a cap of such ton
That Beauty vowed
(Though no: aloud)
She liked him still better in that than his own.
Yes; liked him still better in that than his own.
Will A.D. 1900 Be a Leap Year?
As this question is already buzzing about
it may satisfy a very reasonable curiosity
if a few particulars are given. That 1896
will be a leap year is an admitted fact, but
that 1900 will not be a leap year was set
tled long ago. By an act passed in 1751 it
was settled that the calendar should be
reformed in a number of particulars.
From January 1, 1752. the civil year was
fixed to commence on that date, and not
on March 25, as many had it. In the
same year — 1752 — eleven days were to fall
| out, from the 3d to the 13th, inclusive, so
■ that what would have been the 14th was
made the 3d. after which the reckoning
proceeded as if nothing had happened.
Thence it followed that what would have
been December 25 became January 5, and
was called old Christmas day. The new
style so introduced went on regu
larly after that, but in 1800 no leap year
was recorded, and in 1801 old Christmas
day fell on January 6, as it does now.
There will be another like change at the
fin de siecle, or end of the century, for 1900
is not to be a leap year, and 1901 is to be
"the fifth after bissextile, or leap year, and
the first year of the twentieth century."
Anyhow, this was the form adopted in
"Rider's British Merlin" for 1801.
The first leap year of this century was in
1804, and is so described in the almanacks
of the time. Moore's Almanack for 1800
calls the year the fourth after bissextile or
leap year, and gives to February twenty
eight days only. In like manner 1802 "is
called the sixth and 1803 the seventh after
leap year. Odd as this may seem, we are
going to do the same thing after next year,
so that for seven years there will be no
February 29 for any anniversaries. It will
be rather hard on some people who have
been born or married on that eccentric
date. The original edition of tlie act of
Parliament which settled these things
looked forward a long way. It now lies
before us, and it says that" the years 1800,
1900, 2100, 2200, 2300, or any other hun
dredth years of our Lord in time to come
(except every fourth hundredth year be
ginning with A. D. 2000), shall consist of
365 days only. The world is kindly re
minded that the years 2000, 2400, etc.,
will be leap years; but we say nothing
about them, because they will not affect
us, however it may happen with posterity.
PLAYIXG AT PASSION.
Fling down the cards! I can play no more;
The game we began in fun
In the summer, is lost and won;
And we have but to count the score.
'Twas a noble game, for we knew each rule
Of whisper and glance and Bigh,
No novices, you and I,
Trained students in Love's sweet school.
What are my spoils? A scrap of your robe,
A programme, a shattered fan,
A glove of a dainty tan;
•And— a wound that I dare not probe.
Now for your score. What, you will not tell?
Perchance that, your spoils amid,
A golden heart lies hid.
Only sham? Have you scanned it well?
Yours Is the game: naught remains to say;
Yet, now it is time to part,
I am tempted to usk, sweetheart,
Are you sure It was only play?
M Its. (iKBAI.D KICABDO.
Mr. Gladstone on Women.
A week or two ago Mr. Gladstone, in a
very short speech, delivered an important
forecast about women. He remarked that
woiuen showed such a power of making
speeches, so much readiness, so much
eloquence, that if they went on as they
had begun they would soon get the better
of men. And he threw out a sly hint that
he, for one, should not be sorry if they did.
How exultant the women speakers of the
day must feel. For Mr. Gladstone is
probably the greatest authority on oratory
now living, as well as one of the greatest
orators. Many men, perhaps the majority
of men, object to women speaking in pub
lic. Tney seem to have a vague idea that
it unsexes them to appear upon a platform,
that it is degrading for them to proclaim
their opinions, and that in a discreet and
everlasting silence lies their salvation.
This view of the case has been rudely
shaken by the ex-Premier.
In my opinion if a woman can speak
there is no harm in her doing so, provided
that she selects her subjects carefully. It
does not unsex anybody to appear upon a
platform. We cannot keep our women
wrapped up in cotton wool, nor is it de
sirable that we should do so. And women
speakers can do an enormous amount of
good. Considering that women have had
so far comparatively little chance of exer
cising their oratorical powers, it must be
admitted that they have done well and
fully justified Mr. Gladstone's encomiums.
Will they go farther and fullfil his proph
ecy concerning them ?
Doubtless they will. Nothing helps Us
so much in the proper development of the
powers within us as a word of encourage
ment spoken with authority. It gives us
courage, self-respect, self-confidence, and,
although self-confidence may become a
fault if it runs forward into self-conceit, in
moderation it makes for virtue and for
great deeds. — Gentlewoman.
• -♦- —
THE RETKOGADE MOVEMENT.
I loved Ireue,
Though she, I knew, was 32;
I courted Kate,
Who was not more than 24 ;
I sighed for Sue,
Who could not boast 18 at most;
It is Marie,
Just sweet 16, who is my queen !
Priscilla Leonard in Vogue.
The mother of the famous Constable
Bourbon learned to fence in order to assist
in the military training of her son.
Odor of Almonds
Clean, pure and pungent, pleases the nos-
trils as the cork comes from a jar of Mine.
Yale's celebrated Almond Blossom Com-
plexion Cream. For years and ages women
have sought a safe and certain preservative
of the complexion. The sun in summer
and the heat of stoves and steam in winter
make Nature's work too hard for her. The
dust that is always in the air grinds itself
into the sensitive skin. Soap and water
are not enough to get it out and to soothe
and soften the dry, chapped skin.
Will do it. It cleanses the skin and its
pores, softens the foreign matter within
and without, soothes all irritation, cools
the heat of chapping and fever blisters and
gives a satin surface to the suffering skin.
It is good for burns and for any abrasion.
A single application is effective. Put it on
at night and rub it briskly into the skin
and you will be pleasantly astonished in
the morning. There have been imitatious
of this wonderful beautifier. Look ont for
them. Accept nothing but the real.
If your druggist will not supply you send the
price, $1. to MME. M. YALE, Health and
Complexion Specialist, 146 State St., Chicago.
Beauty Guide mailed free.
The Largest Assortment of the Newest
CREPONS (shirred effects), at JniC
DUCK SUITINGS (light and i AC iniC jrc
dark), at.. lU i *02 i 10
LAWNS (choice designs), at „19 t C iRC
"""""""" a 'Yard
DIMITIES fnovel). at ARC OAC
ly | Lv
FRENCH SATINE3 (varied assort- one ORC
inent),at uU , in)
FRENCH BATISTES (elegant), at. . . OAC ORC
"""""""""** Ov 'Yard
SCOTCH ZEPHYRS (stripes ARC OAC ORC
and plaids), at 10 , m , ZO
A big lot of GINGHAMS to be closed
10 CENTS A YARD.
RANGING FROM I7RC
LATEST NOVELTIES, from 7BC
. FULL ASSORTMENT OF
GJERDIER 4 CO.,
S. E. Cor. Geary St and Grant Aye., S. F.
223 SOUTH BROADWAY,
Parlor— Silk BrocateUe, 6-ptece suit, plash
Bedroom— T-piecc Solid Oak Suit, French Bevel-
plate Glass, bed, bureau, washstand. two chairs.
rocker and table; pillows, woven-wlre and top
Dining- — 6-foot Extension Table, four
Solid Oak Chairs.
Kitchen— No. 7 Range, Patent Kitchen Table
' and two chairs.
Houses • furnished complete, city or country, any-
where on the coast. Open evenings.
M. FRIEDMAN & CO.,
224 to 230 and 306 Stockton
and 237 Post Street.
Free packing and delivery across the bay.
PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S
Genuine Shell Whalebone "Orea Brand."
Specially Prepared and Selected for the
DRESS GOODS AM) CORSET TRADE.
All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed.
One trial will convince you of its merits and
superiority over all other brands^ in the market.
T A "P\T"I?Q See that your dressmakers do
JU r\ 1 /XJliO not use Inferior grades or substi
ME EQUAL TO OUR "ORCA BRAND."
* Never breaks, most elastic, lasts longest, cheap- ■
est and best.
For sale by all the leading dry-goods booses
Office and Factory, 30 California Street,
, SAN FRANCISCO .
y — v LI PO TAI JR.'S
cLI PO Sanitarium,
tNo. 727 ' Washington St,
Jj^l^yMi Cor. Brenham Place, above
C --^V^^/J^^^S. the plaza, San Francisco, CaL
Office hours 11 A.M. to
. 9 P. M.
;' V-\ \<l: ,'-^ : , 1443 Linden Street, Oakland.
Dear Sir: It Is now about four months since I
was recommended by friends to attend your sani- 1
tarium. I had for a loan time been afflicted with
epilepsy and was under the care of skilled doctors,
but obtained no permanent relief until after I bad
consulted you. The herb teas procured at your
sanitarium had the magical effect cf bringing about
a complete cure. I shall most earnestly recommend
you to all who are afflicted. Yours respectfully. .
PChlchertert En«lliih Diamond Bran*. "
_/rr-v • Original and Only Genuine A
j- V^TV «»«. *lw»J» reliable, ladies aik «A
f' i\ C&CA Dru*?irt for Chiche'tert F.nfuH. Dii-X[\\
fctfy^vSKSmoni Eran.lin Ked and aUmfU!ic\VQ'
IC"**'T^SiWhni«i. sealed will) bloc ribbon. Take VS"
« iS.^Jno other. Beflue dange'oui ruttitw ■ ™ ".
' ■-■ I^l "=•"" . /*» liimj ami imitation. A-. Draggi««, or tad 4c
I A -. ■ 2jf In itamps far particulars, tsatimonlali aa<t
1-. |£ « Belief for Ladles." in Utter, by retnrm .
V* fy Moll. H».OO» J>«timoDi»li. Kane Paper.
-rCh!<-hci<trr Chemical Co.,ilmll*oa Squu.
Sold by til Local Drusslit*. - ■■■ .. - . i*liUiid«., Pa.
; NEW WESTERN HOTEL.
KEABNY AND WASHINGTON STS.— RE-
. modeled and renovated. KING, WAKD <fe CO. ,
European I plan. • Kooms sOc to $1 50 per day, $3
to $8 per week, $8 to 930 per. mouth; free baths;
' hot and cold water every room; fire grates in every
room; elevator runs all night.