Newspaper Page Text
A PAGE FOR WOMEN
Odd desiens in jewelry are derigueur this
season. For instance, a cat with its back
humped up in the very act of fighting is
described as quaint and curious. It is a
combination of emeralds and gold. A
poodle of oxidized silver set in diamonds
is also in favor. Both of these are worn as
brooches. Opal pins with oval head and
pear-shaped opal, applied to the same pur
pose of a beautiful quality, full of chang
ing lights, are great favorites and make
very lovely presents for bridesmaids. The
old superstitions concerning these fateful
stones will never be forgotten. Quite re
cently a friend of mine was sent a most
lovely lacerjin set with opals. She quickly
replaced it in its case and returned it to
the donor with the explanation that her
birth month was not October.
A good deal of attention has lately been
devoted to turquoises, some beautiful
Bpeciinens having been made ud by Tiffiny.
Arrows for brooches and for the hair in
diamonds and sapphires meet fashion's
One of the newest stars in diamonds has
flames introduced between each point,
which gives it much additional fare.
Now you might guess all day and never
find out what are the very latest of the de
signs, so I shall tell you at once that they
are the hansom cab and the coach in four.
What next I wonder? Perhaps sleighs
■will be i lie favorite winter brooch and a
pair of skates entwined the latest in scarf
pins. This is really not a bad idea of
mine, as opals would represent the snow
The revival of all colonial things makes
the demand for great tortoise-shell combs
very evident, indeed I have been admiring
some to-day in the window of one of our
With the white kid belts now so much
in vogue are shown large mother-of-pearl
buckles— and speaking of belts reminds
me that some wide belts of black silk elastic,
a great improvement on any hitherto
made, are being eagerly bought up.
White serge costumes for boating and
yachting are made in large numbers. These
are faced with ; ilk of the same hue.
A dress of cliina blue duct, adorned
with white duck cuffs and collar, is an ex
ceedingly pretty frock and is one worn by
• young girl just sweet 16 at her country
home ; but this combination is suitable for
any young woman. White embroidery
over the blue is also effective.
Daring the last month a skirt newer in
shape than any I Dave described this sea
son has made its appearance in Paris. It
measures round about nine yards, and
though this does seem to me too volumin
ous, although I know it to be correct, 1 am
assured that this particular style is very
chic, as the cut employed insures an abso
lutely perfect hang of* the folds, so we will
doubtless hear mure about it shortly.
Sleeves seem to be trying to emulate the
skirts in size, and now from six to eight
yard> is the quantity ured for a pair; it is
necessary, perhaps, for me to repeat that
stiffen ing i^ not employed in these sleeves,
but the modistes continue to concentrate
their attention on our bodices, and every
design, si4>[»Jo or complicated, every fold
or ioose plait, every trimming of jewel or
lace, rvery chiffon "or gauze, each and all
are used r.. iarry out some idea which
madame considers necessary for our latest
"<; rt .tin of a dress."
Now that bo many cheap and reiuark
abJy pretty fabrics are to be seen on our
counters do not make the mistake of pur
chasing too small a quantity of material.
From eighteen to twenty-two yards are
necessary for a gown, and" remember that
to have a correct skirt it is absolutely
A tea gown made of black crepon, with a tabbed cape outlined with an infinitesimal ecru
insertion and edged xvilh lace; this is lined throughout tvith black silk.
necessary to befurbelow the inside about
half a yard up, and this means that rem
nants of silk are not to be despised. The
petticoats are more beautiful and elegant
than ever, the up-to-date woman having
hers not only made of silks and laces but
also of rirh brocades, with a few more
flounces than ever before. Chiffon, as well |
as laces, appears on them.
Appropriate petticoats for morning wear
are composed of substantial batiste having
silk flounces f-dgeJ with lace and a bead- I
ing of baby ribbon. These appear in many
colors, rioaever, we may expect the old
white affairs to be "the thing" before long. |
Every kind of contrivance is resorted to
in order to make gowns stand out enough,
not too much. One of the most successful ■
arrangements is to have at the back of the |
waist a couple of box plaits of French can- I
Paris Cape for Summer Wear — This cape is
here represented in embroidered satin, but
would look equally well in brocade or chine.
The fronts open on each side, which preve,nts
the cape being creased by the arms. This is
an under-vest and collar of pl-eated chiffon.
The cape hangs very full and is gored.
Gray crepon dress, with white satin collar,
is made of light gray crepon, with a large
collar of white satin, trimmed with yellow
guipure and edged with tiny littl-e frills of
Brussels lace. The belt and buttons of this
are of steel and the collar is of a peculiar
shade of gray. By the way, gray is one of
the idols of the Parisian hour. It is the color,
or, at least, I suppose I should say the ivant
of color, quite a change from the eternal gor
geousness which has been decorating our
frocks for the last few weeks. The neuter
tints are, of course, paradoxically, used with
vas covered with the same material, the
two plaits side by side about four inches
deep and sewn into the waist band. This
prevents undue stiffness. A narrow steel
in the hem of certain skirts is still used.
The latest crepon news — we always
have to give a little bulletin about this im
portant stuff — is that the plain or shot
crepons are the latest only when the bil
lows or crinkles are of "gigantic size."
That is the exact expression used to
describe them. I am truly curious to see
Plain white capes having the seams em
broidered are stylish. As I said, the iong
clove is in style, as elbow sleeves are beinS
made so twenty-button lengths will be
worn, and to keep them in Dlace a garter
is worn around the top of "the arm and
these are composed of a tiny white ribbon
having jeweled studs and a" buckle.
They are delightfully pretty, as are also
the large twisted serpents used for belt
fastenings. Emeralds, sapphires and tur
quoise are much used for this purpose
with great success.
Especially pretty is a blouse lately made
of white moire and deep cream insertion
over heliotrope satin, the elbow sleeves of
heliotrope satin tied at the waist with a
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY. JUNE 16, 1895,
A lovely gmni of Duchess satin. Skirt full
and plain. Waist consists of lovely lace over
the tight-fitting bodice of satin. Ribbons of
Dresden China pattern pink roses on pale
green ground complete this costume.
satin ribbon belt. The usual large collar
finishes the neck.
Cornflower Tplue and magenta are quite
the most fashionable colors where a touch
of brightness is required — indeed, whole
gowns are made in these colors. For in
stance, the Comtesse de Galliffert, at the
opera in Paris, lately wore a gown con
sidered charming of cornflower blue crepe
and tulle, with many diamonds.
On the same occasion the yonng Com
tesse de Castellane wore a pretty pink
gauze dress striped with gold, over pink
Dainty figured organdy over glace silk. Three rows of ribbon trim the bottom of the skirt.
satin. The low bodice seemed a mass of
gauze, the sleeves were short and low,
quite below the shoulder, and then there
was a shoulderstrap of jewels going over
the shoulder, appearing to hold the bodice
up. These epaulieres can be made of vel
vet or satin and the jewels placed on them.
Now, on full-dress occasions, the coiffures
are varied, a few still wearing bandeaux,
but most prefer to have their hair slightiy
waved and made into a small chignon
rather high, a la Grecque, making the
head look small, showing the neck, the
nape and ears. Few ornaments are worn
in the hair, excepting an aigrette fast
ened with a jeweled clasp or a dia
mond aigrette. Young girls we ar a
simple flower or a pointed bow. Many
wear nothing whatever, but in all cases
the style of the matron or girl must be
carefully considered, as the French cor
rectly say that the becoming arrangement
of the hair is of the first importance; next
of course, comes the shade, style and ma
terial of the gown.
Different colored straws are fashionable.
Blue, green and rose- pink are most in de
Hats are increasing in size. The pictur
esque Louis XVI shape are most in vogue.
These are worn well over the face, no front
hair showing. Many Princess de Lamballe
hats are to be seen, and are exact reoro
ductions of those worn by the beautiful
Princess before the Reign of Terror, and are
like large mushrooms, with bunches of
flowers or rosettes of ribbon under the
brim, ana great upstanding plumes in
front, with quaint broad taffeta ribbon
drawn plainly round into a bow with ends
at the back.
The styles of the time of Louis XVI
were the most beautiful and luxurious, 1
\ Gray Alpaca Costume — This gown is made
in gray alpaca, with the coat double-breasted
in the front, ivith a full short basque at the
back, the revers being faced with white silk,
hemmed with blark satin. Very effective in
deed are these revers.
consider, that ever were seen, and nowa
days the reproduction of some of those
charming gowns at the leading theaters
has been received with marked approval
by the leaders of fashion all over the world,
and what variety we have. Beautiful
Mrs. X. will order a Marie Antoinette
fichu and a "Puritan" set of cuffs and
collar almost in the Fame breath, and the
next moment will warn madame that her
next tea gown must have a real Japanese air
about it, and I can assure you not one of
us can decide in which gown Mrs. X. looks
the most charming.
Many of us expect to spend a few weeks
at a number of summer resorts, and as
nothing injures delicate summer gowns so
much as constantly being packed and re-
packed, and as there are some slight
changes in fashions every few weeks, even
if only in the way of tying a bow or drap
ing a bit of lace, let me advise you who
are so fortunate as to have numerous
toilettes to take with you at the start only
what you need at once, leaving with your
modiste your all but completed gowns, so
that as you desire them they can be ex
pressed to you. You will be delighted
with this arrangement, as it will insure
the latest touches and the most exquisite
The Yogi Breathing.
The newest idea in physical-culture cir
cles has been revealed to several women by
a high-caste Indian in the country. It is
called Yogi breathing, and it is intended
to create an internal poetry of motion that
is supposed to give women such control
of themselves that when they attain per
fection in the art they may all but stop
breathing and live. To breathe ala Yogis,
as the Yogis themselves do, close one nos
tril and breathe in with the other during
eieht seconds. Then open the closed
nostril and close that one which
was first used for inhaling and exhale the
breath in two seconds through the nostril
first closed. Then inhale through the one
last used and exhale with the other. The
motion should be, inhale eight seconds
left, exhale two seconds right, inhale eight
seconds right, exhale two seconds left, in
hale eight seconds left, exhale two seconds
right. This should be continually prac
ticed, as it produces the poetry of breath
ing, the disciples of this Yogi idea aver,
and in time becomes second nature. It
really produces a regularity of breathing
that is beneficial.
DAUGHTERS OF CINCINNATI
A New Patriotic Organization
Recently Founded In
SOCIAL SIDE OF THE ORDER.
Only Lineal Descendants of Officers
Who Fought In the War
NEW YORK, N. V., June 10, 1895.— The
patriotic fire which has glowed with such
fervor of late among the fair descendants
of colonial and revolutionary sires is hav
ing new fuel added to the flames in the
form of just one more organization whose
aim is to inspire love of home and country.
This is the Society of the Daughters of the
Cincinnati, corresponding in requirement
to that of the masculine Society of the
Cincinnati, the country's first patriotic
order. It has lately been founded in New
York City, and a movement is already on
foot to form like societies in the remaining
twelve States which, with New York, com
pose the thirteen original colonies. Each
State society is to be governed by its own
board of officers, but all will be subservi
ent to the general society, just as the Na
tional society of the Daughters of the
American Revolution is the parent asso
ciation of all the local chapters through
out the Union.
There is more of a flurry than ever
among the patriotic all over the land, and
the search for an ancestor is being pursued
in hot haste while the revolutionary tea
kettle and Priscilla's distaff are restored
alone the way. But the enthusiastic
searcher has an even more difficult task be
fore her than of yore, for this time her pro
genitor cannot have been a dame, nor of
the common herd, as allowable by the sis
ter revolutionary societies, but in accord
ance with the constitution he must be one
of the masculine persuasion and a gentle
man of high degree.
In plain English, any woman eligible to
the new order must be the lineal descend
ant of an army or navy officer, no matter
of what nationality, who fought in the war
She must also be very nice and very
well behaved, in addition, or she will not
prove acceptable to this dignified and ele
gant body of women.
In the tirst place she must be invited to
join their ranks. She must not offer her
self as a possible candidate for admission
nor allow it to be supposed for a moment
that such a condition of affairs would be
agreeable to her. She must then be pro
posed by one "daughter" already within
the charmed circle, seconded by another
and recommended by a third, then run
the gauntlet of the executive board.
The Society of the Cincinnati was
founded after the close of the revolution
by French and American officers, and this
society to-day, through the New York State
branch, has acted as patron to its young
sister associations. An advisory board, con
sisting of a number of the leading mem
bers, with John Schuyler, treasurer-gen
eral of the entire society, acting as chair
man, has been formed, and already lent
most efficient aid to the ladies in organiz
ing their association.
This new order has a social side, too, and
one of its chief objects is to renew, foster
and develop among its devotees the friend
ships formed and cemented amid the try
ing experiences of tne great struggle. As
soon as it is in thorough working order
there are to be frequent and delightful re
unions at the homes of the different mem
bers, when patriotism, tea and talk will
commingle and promote a lively esprit de
corps among the fair dames in whose deli
cate veins flows such very azure blood.
They are a charming coterie of dames,
earnest, intelligent and attractive, and
they mean to do some good work in arous
ing and perpetuating a love and respect for
the land freed at such a cost by their
The incorporators are Mrs. Howard
Townsend, who is also president of the
National Society of the Colonial Dames of
America, and of one of its constituents, the
Society of the Colonial Dames of the State
of New York.
The society's president" is Mrs. James
M. Lawton, who is also the only woman
associated on the executive committee of
the Huguenots Society, with all its mascu
line representatives; the vice-president is
Mrs. Howard Townsend.
The insignia decided upon displays the
head of the father of his country and the
American eagle in all his glory. "The colors
are white and pale blue.
The ladies are blessed with a goodly
number of distinguished sires. It is re
corded of a colonial dame that she entered
her association with thirty-five noted pro
genitors to back her. She might well share
a few with her unfortunate sisters pining
for one only.
There is already a long waiting list of
women, the lineal offspring of revolution
ary official ancestry, and tne Daughters of
the Cincinnati have before them a future of
usefulness and influence sharing in charac
ter and scope that of the like organizations,
but unique of its kind. Corolyn Halsted.
CLEVER GOTTINGEN GIRLS
The Position of Woman at the
Prussian University Is
Aspiring Students Must Come Well
Grounded and Prepared for
Miss Isabel Maddison, B.Sc, writes to
us from Gottingen as follows: The circum
stance that an English woman — Miss Chis
holm—has taken the degree of doctor of
philosophy at Gottingen University is ex
citing general attention among all who are
interested in the opening of universities
of women; but the facts concerning the
real position of women at Gottingen Uni
versity and the conditions on which the
degree is granted to them are as yet not
very generally known. The movement is
at present in its infancy. It is only within
the last two years that women have been
allowed to attend the university lectures;
and this innovation, great as it is when the
dearth of colleges for girls in Germany is
considered, has come about so quietly and
naturally that even in Gottingen "itself
it lias hardly excited much remark, says
Another cause leading to the same result
ia that the number of women students at
Gottingen is small, and made np for the
most part of specialists, who have already
taken their degrees elsewhere, and have
come to hear some particular lecturer and
really to attend the more advanced and
less crowded classes. It is a dangerous
thing to prophesy, but it seems highly
probable that if the German universities
are to be freely opened to women in the
future, it must be to this type of student
mainly ; at any rate, this certainly applies
to the immediate future.
The course of events has been as follows:
In the autumn of 1893 three women inde
pendently applied to be allowed to attend
some of the mathematical and physical
lectures at the University of Gottingen.
Two were graduates of American colleges,
and had been doing teaching and special
work ; the third was a student of Girton
College, Cambridge, who had passed both
parts of the mathematical tripos. Pro
fessor Klein and the other professors
whose lectures these women were anxious
to attend very kindly gave them all possi
ble help, and personally sent the applica
tion for admission to the university lec
tures to the Prussian Minister of Educa
tion. With each application was sent a
detailed account of the work the student
had done, and letters of recommendation
from the professors under whom she had
The reply was favorable and the women
were at ouce allowed to register— not as
students, for that involved "immatricula
tion" and other technical difficulties — but
as "hospitants," i. c., guests or hearers.
In the following year twelve women pre
sented themselves for admission and wers
also admitted as hospitants, so that in the
winter semester of 1894 fifteen women were
attending the course of the philosophical
faculty at the university. Seven of these
studied mathematics, astronomy and
physics, while others heard lectures on
chemistry, philosophy, history and politi
cal economy. Of these women three were
English, one German and eleven American.
It must not, however, be concluded from
this rapid advance in numbers, that Got
tingen is opening wide its doors and wel
coming all comers. This is far from being
the case. By no means are all the profes
sors in favor of the admittance of women;
some utterly refuse to lecture to women ;
others take up a neutral position, and those
who are most willing to extend the privi
leges of a university training to women
are most anxious that it shall be done with
discrimination, that the women students
shall come well grounded and prepared for
hard work and that no element of dilet
tantism shall appear.
With this object in view, no general
rules have been framed with regard to ad
mitting women, but each case is con
sidered separately. The candidate for ad
mission must make herself known by
means of testimonials, certificates, and an
account of the nature and extent of the
work she has already done, to a member
of the faculty or professorial board. If
he is willing to support her application,
the testimonials, etc., together with the
professor's recommendation, are laid be
fore the curator, who is the official repre
sentative of the Ministry at the university,
and are forwarded by him to the Prussian
Minister of Education. If a favorable
answer is received the curator instructs
the pro-rector— i.e., the president of the
professorial board— and he gives the official
permission, which is, however, subject to
the wishes of the individual lecturers. The
permission of the lecturer must, lastly, be
asked for and obtained before his lectures
can be attended. The woman students at
Gottingen are now enjoying all the privi
leges of the library and reading-rooms.
They attend certain of the seminaries, the
physical and chemical laboratories and the
observatory. They pay the ordinary uni
The next question which presented it
self was: Shall these women, if capable
and anxious to offer themselves, be ad
mitted to the degree? The faculty care
fully considered the question, and their
decision was as follows: The faculty does
not refuse to women, as such, permission
to take the doctor's examination, but re
serves to itself the right of presenting or
refusing to present to the Minister any
particular request for such permission.
It is understood that the candidate must
have fulfilled the usual requirements be
fore being granted the degree. She mii6t
have studied three years at a German uni
versity, or a university adjudged by the
faculty to be of equal standard, the last
year at least to be spent in Goettingen ;
she must present an original dissertation
which possesses in the judgment of the
faculty scientific value and have this after
ward printed ; she must pass an oral ex
amination in the subject with which her
thesis deals and in two related subjects.
The matter stands so at present. One
lady (Miss Chisholm) has already fiulfilled
the requirements and obtained the degree.
One or two more will shortly give in their
theses to the examiners. The Minister of
Education has given his consent, but par
ticularly remarks that it applies to these
exceptional cases only.
If the restrictions appear at first sight
irksome we must remember that the ques
tion at issue is a very large one. Anything
that has so far been done is in the "nature
of an experiment, and it is most desirable
that the trial should be made with the best
material, that only a few women should
present themselves, and that those should
be thoroughly qualified to make the best
of their opportunities.
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.AT- ■ tr MalL l»,OOOTc«UmonlaU. .Varna paper.
v rChl.'UcMfr CkcjalciU Co., M»dl««m -quura.
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