BRIGHT IDEAS
FOR
UP TO DATE WOMEN AND MEN
There is a woman in this City— perhaps
there are a score, but I only know of one —
who, when attired in a gown which she
feels suits her and is of the latest style, is
condescending in her manner, if you are
similarly garbed, but if you are not she is
positively aggressive. However, if things
are reversed she is not unpleasant to meet,
A pity, is it not, that she has never really
understood, if she has ever heard of, the
story about piggy's ear, otherwise she
would not, as the boys say, "give herself
away," for it is correctly supposed that
when one places such dependence on cloth
ing they have tut little else in their favor,
and then comes the embarrassing question,
"Who is she, anyway? '
I admit that the consciousness of being
well and suitably clad is conducive to a
feeling of placidity, which deepens into
one of pleasurable content when our gar
ments can be described as beautiful and
stylish. I coula right here preach such a
nice little sermon on, well, say "\ anities,
because I have heard so many of them, but
this I will not do, firstly because I have
not been asked to write seriously on this
subject, and secondly, you would probably
skip every word of it, having heard so
much on "this topic, so instead I shall be
frivolous feeling.
Certain You Will Bead and Criticize.
One of our pretty Californians, who has
lately returned from Europe, after an ab
sence of years, wears many dainty toilettes
which set off well her lovely complexion.
One waist from Paris is of a yellowish eilk.
The sleeves are immensely full, with no
traces of stiffening. The front is slightly
bloused and across it is draped some rare,
creamy Irish point lace, which is caught
up with two rosettes so cunningly devised
that they look like half-opened Marechal
Niel rosebuds. Each sleeve also has one of
these rosettes nestling among the ample
fullness about eight inches from the shoul
der and around the wrists are small
turned-over cuffs of the lace. A bias fold
of the silk, arranged with many wrinkles,
encircles a well-rounded waist.
Of course, this dainty woman has not a
few of the light gowns, covered with
masses of lace, which Iso love. It is hard
to decide whether she is prettiest in mus
lin batiste, chiffon, or mousseline de soie.
Lace is popular, but never has there been
a season known when ribbons were so uni
versally worn, and in consequence, every
possible sort and description of ribbon can
be found, and this fashion is a most
economical one, as we can refresh our
old gowns by their judicious use, and
crepon dresses of last summer which were
completed by black satin ribbon and belt,
and a large collarette of white lace, are
unpleasantly conspicuous this season, for
they are no longer new. To make them
stylish, replace the black satin by a draped
collar and narrow belt of green and blue
chameleon taffeta ribbon. A large aigrette
bow or one with broad loops completes
both belt and collar, and in place of the
white cillar a shallow yoke is added in
front of black net wrought with iridescent
green and blue spangles, and a very
effective bow of the bright ribbon is
Placed on each siae of the bust, close to
the armholes. The cuffs are of the ribbon
ami have a draped appearance.
These chameleon taffeta ribbons are the]
latest importations for dress trimming and |
millinery, and are from four to six inches
wide.
The empire sashes have been, and are
still, great favorites with our pretty girls,
and go well with the profusion of light
gowns seen everywhere, and it should be
recorded that ungainly figures can be im
proved, short waists made longer and ab
normally long waists shorter by bands and
belts. For a short-waisted woman a broad
belt, particularly of sash ribbon, is most
undesirable, but with a narrow, belt and
straps of ribbon put in from belt to shoul
der and ending on -the shoulders in a bow
there is a good long line effect gained
Long-waisted women should delight in the
mode wtiich allows them to wrap yards
and yards of ribbon around their waists,
but they certainly have the advantage over
their short-waisted sisters.
Surplice fronts, becoming to slender
figures and to the stout alike, are in many
new waists, the fullness being gathered on
the shoulders instead of below the throat
and it is lapped across the bust to fasten
on the left side under the belt.
A surplice waist is worn here by a pretty
young matron of black mousseline de soie,
over black taffeta, and is beautified with
bands of yellow Valenciennes lace. The
sleeves are voluminous, with horizontal in
sertions of the lace. The collar is a ruche
of creamy lace. With this is worn a plain
Bkirt of black silk. The toilette is excellent,
and I almost forgot to add that at the back
of her necK she wears, with this gown, a
bow of black satin, consisting of four or
Bix loops, some of them extending out at
the sides, and this is one of the latest things
which have reached us from Europe, and
we are informed that in exaggerated cases
the bow is set so high that it appears to
spring from the neck itself under the low
coiffure, for the coming fashion is to dress
the hair very low in the neck.
Long cloaks cut a la domino for evening
carriage wraps are very stylish; the fronts
can be left open or crossed over and
fastened. The armholes are immense and
the sleeves form very iarge puffs. These
cloaks are to be the favontes of fashion,
say our best modistes. I am glad of it, as
they are easily slipped on and off. Such
cloaks will, later in the season, be made
up in lightweight cloths for evening trips
across the bay, etc.
Most of us have seen the stylish matron,
who dresses in the extreme of fashion, in
a white alpaca skirt as early as April.
I heard and announced that such skirts,
with Louis XVI coats of shot silk, would
be one of the things for spring and sum
mer wear, and suchhas been the case, the
Bwellest women having regarded the com
binations with much favor. And now we
are to have a novel jacket called the
Kobespierre, which is cut with the short
waist, and with it is worn the deep sash of
that particular period, accompanied by a
long cravat of Mechlin lace, and fastened
witfi bronze buttons. This is tremendously
smart, and I wonder who will have the
first one here. I understand several are
ordered.
All who saw the beautiful, stately girl
recently at San Rafael, with eyes like
brown velvet, will remember now charm
ing was her white Leghorn hat, trimmed
with Dresden ribbons and great crush
roses, while snialler ones nestled under the
brim against her dusky hair.
Many married women here, although
still young, rind that the bodices that end
at the waist are not at all becoming to
their well-developed hips. A basque cut
so as to have sufficient fullness to flare
slightly around the hips overcomes the
difficulty, and dresses made entirely of one
niateriai are certainly more appropriate
than the bodices differing from the skirt?.
Many do not know that the new shot
linens will dry clean over and over again
and look perfectly new and fresh after
each visit to the cleaner's. They are ex
♦remely pretty and we have a large variety
to select from.
Next winter a real genuine blonde will
make her debut, having recently gradu
ated from the private school o"n Sutter
Btreet. She will be a success from the be
ginning, combining beauty with a bright,
happy disposition. Besides, I have never
seen her in an ugly gown : on the contrary,
she thoroughly understands what suits
her, and guided by a mother whose taste is
known to be excellent, every dress is a suc
cess, whether a simple duck, with its little
vest of dotted Swiss and frills, or a calling
costume of light color, trimmed with vel
vet just the shade of green to make her
eyes a trifle darker, and relieved with a
little old lace here and there. However, I
think she is at her best when in evening
toilet, for her arms and neck are so well
molded that I advise the girls who have
I made four or five debuts to look to their
; laurels and make the most of this summer's
flirtations.
An aristocratic blonde is now at Mon
terey, who looks exceedingly well in a pale
blue crepon. It enhances her fair beauty.
I believe every one is more or less weary
hearing discussions about bicycle cos
tumes, but I cannot resist describing one
lately shown in Altman's window in New
York. Of course it was for an actress, as a
bicycle is a necessary part of variety per
formances nowadays. This particular
model was on a dummy figure mounted on
a bicycle. The moderately full bloomers
were of black satin, the shoes of patent
leather. Now this sounds quite ordinary,
but let me conclude : The coat was of crim
son satin with large buttons and moder
ately long tails, the waistcoat of black
satin with buttons matching those on the
coat, but of a smaller size. Above the
waistcoat was a very cute little shirt of
white muslin with frills, and a stock of
muslin. On the head of Mme. Dummy
was perched a jaunty red hat which had a
band of black ribbon around it. The
r gloves were of black kid broadly stitched
with red. Quite a gay costume, was it
not, but effective, for the stage ?
In Paris so great is the rage for the
wheel that some one remarked that Paris
ians went to balls, marriages and even
funerals on their wheels, and I hear that
the costumes worn there are the greatest
conceivable absurdities. However, why
do we not have a swell bicycle club here?
I have just heard of a grand reception,
etc., given in Louisville by the crack club
there, which was a notable success, invita
tions being widely sought for. Now, here
j we have so much time when such exercise
j can be enjoyed that I am at a loss to un
. I derstand why some of our best set do not
] organize a club at once.
I hear from New York that a Mr. Van
, Allen contemplates giving a bicycle party
by moonlight with Japanese lantern at
, i tachments. Of course, a supper will fol
, I low. I consider this a bright idea, worthy
of imitation.
The event at Ludbrook Park on July 4
was a novel tournament, in which the men
, were attired in costumes of bygone days
', and mounted on bicycles. They rode in
I the tournament, under arches and took
rings, after which a Queen and her maids
, j of honor were crowned.
The late Ward McAllister used to give
an annual picnic at Newport, and it was con
sidered a picnic of picnics to which each
guest contributed some triumph of his or
her chef's art, to be eaten al fresco. The
f beautiful toilets worn on such occasions
made it quite like a fete champetre at the
Trianon when beautiful Marie Antionette
laid aside her queenly state and laughed
like an ordinary happy young woman.
What an idea for some of the owners of
lovely country places. They could make
a success of such a fete now that costumes
of that period are de riguenr.
I wonder what Oakland's broad-minded,
generous leader thinks about the latest
London sensation. It is an art gallery which
has been opened upon a new plan. The
proprietor is a woman, and she wishes to
sell pictures, so she gives afternoon teas
at which are present the artists whose
pictures are for sale, and of course, they
, being lions, attract the public, and ail
, London swarms to these functions, the
artists smile, tea flows, and I understand
, that the pictures sell with marvelous
rapidity. I wonder if such a tea would
, "go" here. I fear there are not enough
lions to smile or roar around.
The subject of table decoration is fre
quently under discussion, and nowadays
sweet peas are great favorites, as they are
to be had in every possible shade, and a
great thing in their favor is their delicate,
pure scent, some hostesses making great
mistakes in having flowers with heavy per
fumes. Lately a novel design for a lunch
table proved a success. The table was cov
ered with pale-green silk, and in the center
was a little pond surrounded with soft
green moss and ferns. In the pond were
ever so many little green frogs, and as a
souvenir each guest had a tiny green frog,
', with her name on his back, placed by her
napkin. The idea requires elaboration, but,
as unique effects are desired, this one may
be so classified. Fans are appropriate sub
j jects at this season, and one of the latest
| novelties for very expensive ones is to
have a design adapted irom some famous
, painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds, such as
"The Ladies Waldegrave," and the mate
rial for such a fan "is chicken skin, artists
declaring it to be an admirable medium
for showing the delicate painting.
Irish lace is now the rage, and on the
occasion of her wedding the Princess
Helene received from the Lord-Lieutenant
of Ireland as his gift a most beautiful fan,
mounted on light tortoise shell sticKs of
this fabric.
That reminds me. I cannot forbear re
marking on the excellent taste of the young
bride in having her bridal gown, which
was of pure white satin, made with the
utmost simplicity, as nothing could have
better suited her tall grace;" ll figure. The
bodice was high to the neck and with long
sleeves, had a deep folded belt of the satin
and a collar en suite, fastened in front
with a small spray of orange flowers and
myrtle. A ruche of these outlined the
skirt and train, the latter being very long
and square in form. The Princess did not
wear a single jewel. Her beautiful golden
hair was a suitable frame for her fair face.
FASHION PRODUCES A CERTAIN UNIFORMITY IN THE STREET THAT IS LESS NOTICEABLE
AT THE SEASHORE.
[Reproduced from an engraving in Life.]
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 21, 1895.
Her veil is of the finest Chantilly lace,
which was especially woven by the women
of Bayeaux, at the right hand corner of
which are represented the fleur.de ly» .of
France and the cross of Savoy beaded with
the crown. All lovers of lace have mani
fested interest in this real work of art.
The Mai&on Worth must feel slighted,
as not only did the Princess order her
wedding dress from the Maison Fromert,
but several others also.
I have mentioned the long cloaks which
will be greatly in vogue, so a description of
one of the most beautiful lately ordered
will be of interest, as it also figured in the
Princess' trousseau. It is cut after the
long princess redingote style, with full
sleeves, medieval cuffs and wing epaulettes.
It is of rich white velvet, and lined with
duchess satin — Medici collar with stole
ends in sable fur.
The formation of the societies of
Colonial Dames of America, and the
Daughters of Cincinnati, has given quite
an impetus to the engravers' business, as
crests and coats of arms now adorn not
only the family silver, as in days gone by,
but also large quantities of letter paper are
being stamped with heraldic devices. The
fashion reached here some time ago, and
as a result not a few of our blue-blooded
dames use their seats and point with pride
to pieces of silver that came from England
more than 200 years ago.
The most comfortable way to dress, as
far as underwear is concerned, is to have
union suits of silk; besides it is more
healthy than any other,' so at least most
physicians declare, and stout women find
them indispensable, as they do away with
bands and do not wrinkle uncomfortably
around the waist. It has been a matter of
no small surprise to me to see how readily
some women will spend on outside cloth
ing, and how they grudge money for ex
pensive underwear, although I do not
admit that silk union suits come under the
head of extravagances, as I consider that
they save many a doctor's bill. Wool and
silk, or wool and lisle thread, are also ex
cellent.
Lately one of our hostesses here, who is
always striving after original and artistic
effects for her table, decided to give a din
ner to some Eastern friends and use only
California poppies for decoration. At 4
o'clock the table was a harmonious dream,
but when at 6:30 madam tripped in to
give a last glance at everything, what was
her consternation at finding her poppies
looking like little yellow sticks, as they
had all rolled up, or, as the children say,
"gone to sleep."
At present but few bonnets are being
worn, even our middle-aged matrons show
an Inclination to wear the large hat over
which many ostrich feathers nod. One of
the latest hats I have seen is a black chip,
with eight black feathers on the crown,
while on the back are rosettes of black and
white silk-edaed chiffon. The silk-edged
chiffon in colors, as well as in black and
white, is being used on many hats. Ro
settes of shot silk are also popular, the silk
being first accordion-pleated, then gath
ered up into choux.
White veils are far from becoming to
some complexions, and although they look
cool are just as warm as black ones, and it
has at last been decided that the veil wtiich
has a white mesh and a black spot upon
it is worthy of the best attention, tor while
it gives the air of coolness, it by no means
exercises a bad influence upon the com
plexion. To my mind the real lace veils
have nothing to recommend them, being
hideously unbecoming, and the best of all
among white veilings is one of Russian
net, with a delightfully soft texture and a
very fine desien.
I have just heard a little secret about
how to make white veils more becoming,
so here it is: Line such veils with very
diaphanous pink gauze, being careful to
choose flesh and not a bluish or mauvish
pink, and you will have the appearance of
possessing, if you own it not already, a de
lightfully youthful complexion. How fre
quently 1 speak of well hung or perfectly
hung skirts, but how seldom do we see,
comparatively speaking, just such skirts.
Well, if you want to see a number of skirts
which merit these adjectives go to the
Baldwin during this week and you will see
them, if you have not already. lam in
formed positively that the gowns worn in
the "Amazons" are quite as excellent as
those to be seen in "Rebellious Susan."
Isabel Irving understands her own style
and coloring perfectly, for not once as
Susan did she wear an unbecoming gown,
in fact one and all were co charming that
I will describe a few for the benefit of
those who are out of town. In the first
scene her skirt was of a soft grayish shade,
absolutely plain, without a particle of ap
parent stiffness. The bodice was trimmed
with an odd pinkish salmon silk covered
with cut jet, which made a chic bloused
effect, and her odd Frenchy collar of lace
cut in deep points had the cutest sable
tails at the ends.
In the next act she wears a light 'silk
skirt, such as we should all possess, as it is
just the proper tint to harmonize with* the
moussehne tie soie and silk waist so greatly
in vogue. With it she combined the dainti
est of waists of the new shade of cerise
pink, over - which '■■ was fulled lace with a
small figure, while velvet of the cerise
shade encircled her waist and tied in just
the right place in a sprightly bow. Her
sleeves were to the elbow.
On her next appearance I wish you all
could have seen the gown ; the skirt of rich,
fawn-colored silk, the bodice had beautiful
sleeves of a new bluish green velvet, while
the slightly < bloused ■ front of i velvet i was
adorned with perfectly lovely cut jewels of
a bluish green tone. Her dinner dress was
very fetching with its ; brocaded skirt and
delicious waist," with just the -right touch
of pink. The little choux nestling at ; the
armholes are like those which f: I : nave de
scribed. r In the first act her cape of black
lace, with the points of Irish lace jeweled,
was awfully stylish, and the; long cloak of
brocaded' rose-pink i satin ' and the large
ermine collar made every of us almost
feel the ; ; ;j pangs t of <l envy.%, Madame
.would have held up her., hands and mur
mured, "It is a gem"-; '■. and it is just one of
the most lovely cloaks seen here for some
considerable space of time — and, oh, I
want a dear little black lace fan and a
~vhite one, such as she has. Her hat and
the toque were good.
The young widow dressed well, but was
at her handsomest in the exquisite dark
shade of cerise. The cape and hat worn
with this toilette were artistic in the high
est degree; and oh, the sleeves! They were
dreams— immense. But you never think
of them as such. They are simply in keep
ing with the "tout." She is so fetching
when arrayed for dinner that one feels cer
tain Sir Richard Kalo will again urge her
to take charge of his household gods,
Lady Darby, Susan's aunt, is most suit
ably and appropriately garbed on every
occasion, whether in her excellent calling
costume of rich plum velvet, with its fash
ionable redingote and its skirt edged with
ostrich plumes, or in the biscuit-colored
toilette, which is slashed with satin of a
lighter tone. I prefer the very handsome
dinner gown ot rich gray brocade and
chiffon. Her bonnets suit her perfectly.
, Elaine Shrimpton, who has "a message
to deliver," has stylish gowns. I have not
decided quite which I like best.
Taken as a whole the Lyceum Theater
company would be well worth going to see
if only on account of the gowns, but the
acting is excellent as well.
Mr. Frawley is to be congratulated on
having such* a talented company, the
members of which have shown to great
advantage in "One of Our Girls." Helen
Dauvray deserves great praise. Her per
sonation is finished, and in the second act
her rippling, happy laughter is charming,
for not one out of fifty women could laugh
as she does, so perfectly naturally, not a
trace of affectation, and her gowns are
good, but the one she first wears is not a
becoming shade. The pink satin em
broidered with gold sequins is handsome
and suits her to perfection, and the beauti
fully embroidered fur-edged cape, trimmed
with rose-pink satin, is pretty. Julie
wears when we first see her one of the
sweetest little white frocks to be found
anywhere, and her evening gown of pale
blue Bhows a pair of lovely shoulders and
is exceedingly becoming. Mine. Fon
blanque, accept my compliments. Your
toilets are so piciuresque, so absolutely
correct, that I am delighted with them,
but you are undoubtedly handsomest in
your exquisitely embroidered gown worn
in the second act when so horribly shocked
by "An International Kiss."
Speaking of theaters reminds me that to
most quickly reach our principal ones I
have to depend on the Devisadero-street
electric-car, which always starts before
allowing one to be seated. This Is, to say
the least, a slight inconven ence, so I in
quired the other day of one of the con
ductors the reason of this, and he replied
that they were not allowed time enough to
wait until the people were seated. I Tiave
seen several slip and narrowly escape
being hurt lately and some day some one
is going to be seriously injured if this is
not looked into, and then the owners of the
road will realize that it would have been
more profitable to have run a few extra
cars.
To conclude, those who are so soon to be
brides will be interested in knowing that
fashion has decreed that her flowers are to
be arranged in a singularly pretty sheaf
called "la gerbe Trianon." The blossoms
must be long stemmed and disposed in
such a way that th« flowers hang separately
without any crush, like a perfumed cas
cade, and another novelty is to have the
sheaf tied with pink velvet ribbon stream
ers, on the end of which have your future
monogram or crest in rubies or diamonds.
One bride has just carried such a bouquet,
and it created a sensation. It is a delight
ful idea. Mabcella.
FASHIONS TOR MEN.
Not very long ago I wa« considerably
amused at hearing a certain young man
announce that all his clothes came from
Poole, and his air and manner indicated
that we should be duly impressed; but his
clothes — well, no one "would want an Eng
lish outfit if his are correct over there. How
ever, perhaps his garments did come from
Poole, for the great original and "only"
Poole has been dead a considerable tim«»
and the establishment has gone to pieces,
none of tie swaeger set ever going there
now, as there are half a score of tailors far
more fashionable; so, my young friend,
when you cross the pond next time patron
j ize some one else if you want to appear to
have any shape or style to you.
The principal fault of the New York
tailor is his intense love of padding, and
only quite lately has he begun to discard
much of it, and the admission is generally
made, even by Britishers, that our best
! tailors finish clothes better than theirs do—
j and they certainly should when the im-
I mense difference in price is considered.
I But, again, the English tailor carefully
j studies the figures of his patrons, while
ours are frequently careless. For instance,
a rotund hgure is not improved when
j attired in a rough coat, and a short man in
! a long-skirted coat cuts an absurd figure,
I although many of them are evidently not
aware of this fact.
I have heard the remark that London
clothes are all loose and baggy, and have
huge checks. To be sure, many garments
come to this country that are correctly so
described, but where did they come from?
I mean who made them? Everything de
pends on this. Many Americans return
| from the English capital with hideous
garments because they went to the wrong
man.
We scarcely ever see in our streets the
patent-leather buttoned boots so generally
worn in Piccadilly and in New York, They
look well, but wring sensitive feet terri
bly.
Speaking about London at this season of
the year makes me think of the Thames,
ana'that reminds me of a fashion, in vogue
some ten years ago, of wearing, when boat
ing, white shirts, high collars, black and
satin ties. Now this style has lately been
revived in this country; indeed, it was
only a few days ago, while visiting Belve
dere, that I saw one of our rising young
electrical engineers so attired, and he
looked very fit indeed. He is one of the
numerous sons of a prominent banker and
capitalist who resides on First street in San
Jose.
Our clothes this season are all, as far as
styles and colors are concerned, very con
servative, as a natural result after the
many attempts to introduce outre dress.
I used to shudder when reading articles
which positively informed us that we must
at once decide as to whether we preferred
pink, green, blue or red cloth, or velvet
swallow-tails. Now, thank heavens, that
danger has been averted, and we are not
even to be forced into knee breeches, al
thoueh I never regarded them with horror,
as I would not have had to order a bale of
padding. Men who desire to have appro
priate clothes for every occasion which
may arise should always have a complete
suit of semi-mourning, as funerals are
among our small obligations, and stress is
laid on our attendance.
Speaking of our linen it is a matter of
surprise to me that men who spend lav
ishly in other directions will wear revers
ible cuffs. Such fearfully bad style, you
know. East even a bank clerk would hesi
tate to do such a thing, and in Europe
such cuffs are almost unknown. It an
nounces so loudly that the laundry bill is
a consideration.
How well our military chief dresses. His
clothes seem part of himself. Do you know
his tailor? Herbert Kelcey patronizes a
good tailor. Did you notice his excellent
lounge suit in the second act. The men in
the Lyceum are a well-groomed, well
turned-out set.
An Eastern friend wanted to know the
other day who is the man owning a mail
phaeton here who has his coachman drive
it while he sits beside him.
For outing the reefer is again the style,
but is double-breasted and quite short,
with a decided notch collar.
Englishmen are wearing the absurd
little bobtailed coat, cutaway in front and
sack behind. It has scarcely any outside
pockets, but this garment is worn by very
young men.
The cutaway, or morning, coat seems to
be gaining in favor, and is much worn.
Men's clothes are so much alike when one
attempts to describe them that we should
remember "it is only the minute accent
here and there which bring out the dis
tinct personalities," and even the "only"
Poole could not have imparted any style
to some figures. C. C.
BREAKFAST ON THE PIAZZA.
The popular summer home is the
kitchenless cottage, whose inmates take
their meals at an adjacent hotel. To be
entirely delightful the freedom from
kitchen responsibilities must be happily
combined with the possibilities of serving
piazza breakfasts. For these have, to be
i gin with, at one end of the piazza, away
I irom the wind, a place for the kerosene
stove. To be quite at ease, have two stoves,
on the smaller of which the coffee will be
making while the rest of the breakfast
cooks. Oatmeal in any of its up-to-date
forms is done in a jiffy. Just stir it into a
saucepan with milk, a little salt and some
| butter. While it cooks beat up the e>;gs
i with a little milk. Then off comes the
I oatmeal, to keep nice and hot under cover
while the eggs are scrambled. These
done, will keep hot also, covered and not
dished. Now, on the vacated stove mount
the oven and pop in the rolls bought of the
baker. In a minute they are hot. Mean
while the coffee has boiled up the required
five times, is now "settling" on the turned
down flame and breakfast is ready.
The porridge and eggs, each in its sauce
pan, goes into the oven with the rolls. All
this time — not so vary Jong either — the
I other folks have been eating their fruit and
I shouting directions at the cook, and now
i with the coffee-pot in one hand and the
' oven in the other, you bring the rest of thy
j breakfast. Hotplates? Of course, noth
ing easier. They were put in the oven for
just the last minute, or they have been
j balanced on top of the oven from the time
| it went on the flame.
Here are some more dishes that may be
j served for a piazza meal. Shave off little
I curls of breakfast bacon, fry them a golden
I brown and serve them heaped around the
I dish of scrambled eggs, because dishes can
I be served whenever the wind is not so
J fresh that it is wiser to keep the breakfast
lin the oven. Delicious toast is made by
laying slices of bread on an asbestos mat
over the oilstove. Fritters of all kinds are
easily prepared, and if one of the party is
willing to be cook, can be served delight
fully fresh from the kitchen end of the
piazza to the table end.
With some cold boiled potatoes from the
dining-room and a few slivers of fried
onion a delicious hash can be made with
canned corned beef and baked in the oven
j a few minutes. Canned boned chicken
; shredded or cut into cubes, with some
cubes of boiled potatoes and a cream of
milk and butter and a little bit of flour for
I thickening, is delicious all heated to
i nether. This may I c done in a chafing
dish right on the table, or if done in the
"kitchen" can be served in the chafing
dish to keep warm.
There are many ways to make coffee,
but they result in much that is hardly
j drinkable, so a method that never fails
I deserves attention. Take the very finest
grade of coffee to start with. Break a raw
egg and mix it, shell and all, with as much
coffee as it will take up, which is a little
more than a good-sized cupful. Put the
! mixture in an ordinary coffee pot, with
I five cups of cold water. Put on the fire
and stir every little while. It will soon
take spurts of boiling up, and after that it
will boil steadily. This latter condition
should come after about five "upboils" or
in from fifteen to twenty minutes from the
beginning. While it boils turn in half a
cup of cold water, turn down the lamp and
let the pot stand undisturbed for at least
ten minutes. So managed coffee should
I be invariably perfect.
TOE MAIDS THAT AEE OE
ONOE WEEE SHY.
Let no young woman be disturbed over
the fact that she is shy, for to be shy, if
one is shy prettily, is to be very charming.
Having become satisfied of the truth of
this, don't at once be overcome by it and
rush to the wrong extreme, for to be shy
prettily one must be shy guardedly, so the
following hints will, no doubt, be eagerly
seized by many a girl who, having got
over her shyness, wishes she hadn't, al
though they are directed to the girl who is
really shy— that is, the one who feels her
cheeks become scarlet if she even thinks
anybody is looking at her, whose heart
beats fast when she is spoken to and whose
limbs actually tremble so wnen she has to
come into a room where thera are stran
gers that she really is miserable instead of
happy at the party or "good time" she tries
to enjoy.
The pretty pink that comes into the
cheeks is very attractive. There i 8 no big
ger compliment in the world than that
same pink and a drooping of the eyes at
his regard. Don't try to face out such
shyness — let it have its own way. If the
eyelids just won't keep up let them stay
down till you are more at ease. Don't feel
that you "must force yourself to Dehave
like the girls who are quite at ease. That
will be to make yourself affected and
hysterical and to take the pretty tremble
out of the voice and put an ugly strained
giggle there instead. "Yes" and "No"
willdo very well if they are all you can
say; but be sure to say them as best you
can without letting yourself be sulky be
cause you can do no better. The person
you are talking to will see that genuine
shynesses the matter and will like you all
the better for it.
It is a great mistake to try to cover shy
ness by a kind of crossness that makes the
other person think himself to blame for
your silence. It is much better to look up
honestly at him, even if your eyes are "all
full of tears because you feel yourself so
awkward and stupid and confess tha*. you
are frightened. You may depend upon it
he will beat once so thoughtful, so kind
and so well pleased with you that you will
be at ease in less than no time. The shy
girl often finds herself left alone, and this,
making her feel she is not "a success,"
causes her to suffer the more. Then her
face takes on a look of sulky distress that
makes her noticeable and not attractive.
Don't let yourself feel that way. You are
fortunate to get a chance to be by yourself
a little while, and v you take it that way it
will probably be only for a little while.
Just sit with your hands clasped in your
lap; don't let them flutter about; jumpy
shyness is not pretty. Look at the others
having a good time, and think how nice it
is to get a chance to see it all without being
expected to do anything yourself. This is
sure to make you forget your own lack of
ease, and then half the battle is gamed —
gained very prettily, too.
MOMENTS WITH MELONS.
The woman who has a watermelon patch
in her back yard, or even a single example
of the seductive fruit in her refrigerator,
need not hesitate to em bark upon a summer
entertainment requiring "refreshments."
Of all delicacies specially adapted to the re
quirements of the lawn lunch the water
melon is supreme and the table upon
whose proud center rests the noble fruit,
its green and glossy side cleft to show the
rosy pulp within, is already decorated.
Upon the cutting of the melon depends
much of its success, and there are many
ways. A favorite and decorative fashion
is to divide it by cutting about the center
in points, separating the fruit into two
pieces with "vandyked" edges. What
could be more fashionable? If the fruit be
firm and pink the choicest pieces may be
cut into little cubes and these be piled on
a platter spread with a napkin. Such a
platter must stay in the icechest to the last
moment, that the edges of the rosy cubes
may not wilt. Folks there be who will in
sist on eating sugar with this fruit, and
others, more sensible, demand salt; so, to
please all, both may be at hand, but it
would be an insult to the melon to say that
either is essential. Jamaica ginger— well,
that isn't to be served, but it's well to
know what shelf the bottle's on, for like
other mediums of dissipation the melon
sometimes brings blue moments.
Every one knows that when the center
of the halves have thus been cut away the
hollow left may be tilled with wine, the
halves returned to trie icechest, reappear
ing with the rounded ends cut a little so
tne fruit will stand firm. A dainty dipper
and a scoop are uf=ed to serve this water
melon punch, and the delicious, almost
frappe liquid, with little scooped-up pieces
of the fruit afloat in it, is served in cut
gla^s, or just as well in the tall, thin
glasses that can be bought so cheaply and
are so pretty. A little slice of lemon, one
of orange and perhaps a tiny tuft of mint
will decorate tne top of the glass and coax
the vanquished participator to take a great
deal more than he should and so prove
the punch a success.
While no fruit is more decorative, every
care must be taken that the dishes upon
which it is served must not become sloppy,
nor the fruit saturated with a mess of
floating juice and seeds. Either the juice
and fruit, cut or scooped, must be regarded
as a dish in itself and be served as from the
hollow of the fruit itself, or else the meat
separated from the rinds must be kept dry
and be freed from seeds. The rind of the
melon cut in little new moons, the pink
pulp all smoothly removed, may be boiled
till it is a clear pulp, green and all, but not
long enough to let it begin to fall to pieces.
This allowed to cool in a punch of epiced
sherry and the whole brought to an almost
icy temperature will then separate, the
new moons, now delicious, quivering, half
transparent segments, to be eaten with
cake like an ice; the punch, so delicately
flavored that only a connoisseur will recog
nize the cause, to appear in cups.
THE MAN WHO PRESUMES.
Did he? Well, don't be so indignant
about it. A man. as a rule, is not aware
that he ip presuming, he thinks he is
merely taking advantage of an opportunity
given him, and, remember, how angry
girls are when a man does not take ad
vantage of an opportunity. Of course a
"nice girl" is not purposely giving men
opportunities to be impertinent or disre
spectful, but if he is that, it is more prob
able that he thought you gave such an
opportunity than that he did it with reck
less disregard of your disapproval. When
a man makes such a "mistake." he usually
feels as bad about it as you, if he realizes
it is a mistake, or else, serene in the belief
that you pave him the chance and gave it
ta him purposely, he wonders what you
are making such a fuss about. That's the
truth of the matter, and now about the
opportunities girls give.
The only wonder is that men behave as
well as they do. Girls seem to depend en
tirely upon men's good taste and self-con
trol and very little upon their own be
havior to insure them respectful treatment.
That's more truth of the matter. If a
young woman crosses her feet and tucks
one prettily shod toe high in the round of
the chair in front of her she must be clever
enough to do ii with a faultless air of un
consciousness or the man is quite justified
in taking the move as a challenge to his
attention to the pretty ankle. He may
feel justified in letting the offender see
that he takes advantage of the opportunity
given him, and he might, not knowing her
very well, or thinking the challenge war
ranted it, be unpleasant. Then she must
get out of it as best she can and afterward
leave such tricks alone. If she was really
just thoughtless she may be as distressed
as she likes. If he sees the distress is
genuine he will be very sorry, but all the
same he is not really to blame.
It is the same way when girls are alone,
traveling, perhaps, or through their own
carelessness or bravado do without escort
in a publ'c place. They imagine that men
must know by instinct that they are ladies.
Well, maybe if the girls are really be
having very carefully the men may know
by instinct, or the men may take the situa
tion as a challenge, and it really is, yon
know. If you get "spoken to." better take
it as if you are sure the intent was respect
ful. Be gentle, grave and quiet about it.
Ten to one the man will be jolly glad you
supposed he was behaving the gentleman
instead of the experimenter, and get out of
it promptly, with every effort to support
the mistake you seem to have made. As
for you, don't set him down as a "cad,"
but remember that you were taking
chances, and remember not to lead an
other man to join you in your mistake at
any another occasion.
Yale's
Skin
['\ ' ■-,'•-, ■..vv^mlm^ a jl jl * ?<;<
Food
Removes- wrinkles and all traces
of age. It feeds through the pores
and builds up the ,; fatty ■ mem-
branes and wasted tissues, nour-
ishes the shriveled and shrunken
skin, tones and invigorates the
nerves and muscles, enriches the
impoverished blood vessels, and
supplies ; youth and ' elasticity to
the action of the skin. It's perfect.
. Tale's Food, $1.60 and $ 3, at all drug-
stores. s MMX. M.YALE, Health and Beauty
Specialist, ) 46 State street, Chicago.* Beauty
- - <»i4We mailed lnt±. ...>., ■; •••-.. ;
NEW TO'PAT.
ifijlis
SEMIANNUAL
Clearance Sale
BEFORE STOCK-TAKING.
Curtain Dep't
UUrittlll •ylwjl %
BALANCE OF OUR
IRISH POINT CURTAISS.
; Regular price- $5, $5 50 and $8, to <3g/£.50
close oat at.. <Ip tr—
Per Pals
IRISH POINT CURTAINS.
Regular price $8 60, $9 and $9 60, to <fi* 17.50
close out at. :.. up I —
.. . . ■-■,_;.-- Per Pair
IRISH POINT CURTAINS.
Regular price 11 50, $12 60 <n»Q ©Q. 50
and $13 50, to close out at. ... ijv. tu)t7— -
:.j Per Pair
BROKEN LINES OF
Chenille and -Tapestry Portieres.
* Regular price $3 76, $4 60, $6 and 97 60,
to close out ■ <JUQ (J&Q.SO C»/J.50 ©X
at.i. ....:.... ; <JpO. <u>G • (ifl)tt . «H)U
Per Pair
Odd Pairs of Curtains,
IN IRISH POINT, BRUSSELS, MUSLIN,
GUIPURE AND NOTTINGHAM,
At Less Ml Price.
FALL JACKETS
JUST ARRIVED!
■•'*'■ Se HABLA ESPANOL.
G. VERDIER & CO.,
SB. Cor. Geary and Grant Aye.
VILLE DE PARIS.
BRANCH HOUSE.
/ • LOS ANGELES.
SCHOOLBOOKS
For 1895.
LOWESTPRICES!
1 - Primary, Grammar,
Commercial and
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NOTE — —^
All Books furnished with a
Strong: Cloth , Cover FREE
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(*?*} Slates ioc**-
■ Noiseless, cloth-bound, with free outfit of box
of 10 slate pencils, a patent slate eraser, a 12-
-: Inch rule and a lead-pencil sharpener. -
DOUBLE SLATES,' same sizes, with outfit 200
100 POINTED FLAG SLATE PENCILS..... 100
RUBBER TIP LEAD-PENCILS, with fine
1 pencil 5harpener. ............. ......5c a dozen
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WHALEBONE.
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superiority over all other brands In the market. ■ ■-
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15