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THE LAEST FASHION GOSSIP
\m —^ VKKY one is now on the wing,
an unusual number having al
==^ ready flown toward Europe. All
the fashionable resorts will be
well patronized and from indica
tions I should say that we may anticipate
a gay summer, and certainly I hope for
one on account of the number of pretty
girls, who so enjoy having a good time.
And what trunks full of lovely gowns will
accompany many of them, but few are
provided with less than a dozen fetching
toilettes for the summer's campaign.
Many of these are simple and inexpensive
enough, but very charming, bearing wit
ness to the fact that our women have more
than their snare of taste and a very cor-
rect eye for the beautiful.
Polo at Burlingame? Well, I do not
know whether I will see that game on Sat
urday or not, but it will be a good gamo
and well played, I am quite certain, and
ths gowns of many Df the women will be
smart enough to warrant more than a
passing glance, provided frequent showers
are not predicted.
On Tuesday next one of the fairest and
sweetest maidens in California will be
come a bride. Much will probably be
written about the quiet home weading,
which will be witnessed by but twenty-five
in all, and the beauty and number of the
wedding gifts will form the principal topic
for many a chat, but for my part I have
nntliin-; to say excepting that all who
know both bride and groom consider that
they should be equally congratulated.
There is to be a pretty wedding here in
June, and still luncheons continue to be
be given of an elaborate nature, but by
t tie end of this month most of us will be
off in search of sunshine and freckles, i
Some will don bloomers and go on bicy
cling tours, and others will examine their
guns and fishing tackle, as not a few of
our women are excellent shots and expert
anglers. In fact, I must myself confess
that a fishing-rod has a great fascination
for me, so you may in the near future hear
from me something about sporting cos
tumes.
A fetching bicycle suit has just been de
signed by Falk. it is a very coarse weave
of brown, linen duck. The short skirt is j
very plain only having six lines of stitch- !
ing round the* bottom. The pretty little I
coat is fancifully cut and has a broad col
lar, revers, and cuff points of ecru linen j
duck. The coat is adorned with brown I
braiding and dark brownish pearl buttons, j
A shirt waist is, of course, worn, a smart
belt and tie, but in conclusion I must not
forget to tell you that "the special feature ;
of the skirt is the shaping of the under- j
neath back breadths to fit the saddle and I
wheel frame in such a manner as to allow |
the overlaying plaits to hang straight from
the skirt belt without a break at the sad
dle."
The fad of having the bicycle and cos
tume all match is increasing in favor, and
cine especially stylish one is in hunters'
green picked out with ecru; the fair rider
wore a tailor-made costameof dark green
cloth and an ecru linen shirt.
A correspondent writes to Vogue asking
for information concerning the number I
and material of gowns necessary- for a I
summer at a seaside hotel, and in reply is
told to have a tailor-made gown of "serge,
homespun or tweed, with a plain skirt and
a jacket bodice, which can be worr over
shirt waists. A mohair dress, in a becom
ing dark shade, also tailor ma.de, is almost
a necessity, as it is cool and sheds the
dust." For afternoon wear a giace taffeta
is suggested, the bodice to be elaborately
trimmed, and for the same purpose is ab
solutely required a grenadine creation,
which can be worn as a general visiting
gown, in afternoon teas and for church.
Several fancy silk bodices, some cut
hiefa and others low, will do to wear, some
of them with the grenadine skirt, others !
with the well-made black or light silk
skirts, which every woman who goes out
at all is supposed to own. A dozen per
fectly fitted shirt waists are necessities,
and they can be worn with a white mohair
or pique skirts on bright days, and on dull
ones a dark skirt is preferable.
A useful dress is of "white or colored
duck cress, barred and tailor-made, with a
skirt and blazer."
"A flowered batiste with a lace stripe
made over Bilk. with lace and ribbons," I
cannot well be dispensed with, and if a
satin gingham and a dainty dimity is
added one can manage, provided one does •
not indulge in yachting, coifing, tennis, j
etc., as in such cases suitable costumes
must be worn.
As far as wraps are concerned Vogue '
says that only a "mackintosh, a covert j
jacket, a golf cape and a fancy cape will be !
needed." Then my lady must have for 1
A LOVELY TEA GOWN.
traveling a toque, a black picture hat and
a very dressy one especially designed to be
worn with the grenadine, '"one or two
bonnets and a earden hat (a Leghorn.)"
In conclusion she is ' advised to have a
black silk petticoat much frilled and wired,
as well as one of white silk. Of course
morreen can be substituted. Such petti
coats are absolute necessities as our skirts
should bt»ve a certain flare. An abundant
supply of slippers, boots, .shoes, gloves and
lingerie will take one comfortably through
a season. , . ,
The echoes of the wedding balls an
nouncing the marriage of the i'rincess
Alexandra have scarcely died away, and
already we have full descriptions of her
charming gowns. The evening toilets are
the most interesting; an exquisite one of
light blue has a skirt of moired aurore,
and, as tbe name implies, it is of a pale
blue, which is shot with a tender rosy
pink, in some lights, and in others with a
golden hue. The body of the same silk is
veiled with lipht blue chiffon, which is
carried up to a yoke made of blue chiffon
puffs divided by little oars of ecru inser
tion. The sleeves are each formed of four
blue chiffon puffs. Another costume of
pale blue satin is a la Louis Seize, with
small bunches of roses over it, as it were,
interrupting gleaming lines of silver pail
lettes that diversify the skirt. More of
these delicate silver lines are seen on tbe
bodice, and each of them terminates at the
berthe, with a small embroidered rose
that is almost imbedded in the puffs of
blue chiffon, of which the sleeves are also
made, with little satin turrets worked
with silver and roses over the tops of them.
A rose-tinted satin has silvery stripes of
moire woven into it, which is a chic nov
elty, and a pink corded silk, shot with
white and pale green has a graceful floral
design all over it. Yet another pink con
fection is of a shot chine silk, and has a
sort of F.ton coat bodice, with a white
chiffon furet, over which is some filmy
beurre lace. A wnite velours soie (a beau
tiful fabric) has interwoven pale gray
green velvet stripes.
At the Coburg fetes the bride wore
a dress described as truly picturesque.
The skirl is of a rich rose glace sick, all
over flowers of a chine description, with a
full but narrow ruche of tb#sameall round
the bottom.
So greatly does the Princess prefer abso
lutely plain skirts that this is the onlvone
of her sKirts so adorned. The bodice is of
the Louis Quinze style, and it is of rich
silk of the old Fragonard iose tint, with
the loveliest white lace appliqued upon it,
not in the usual way. hut the lace flowers
and foliage are unconnected by any mesh
and made for the exact places they occupy
on both sides of the revers, the deep cuffs,
pockets and the basque, which like the
entire coat is lined with pale canary satin.
The front is of the same satin, and there
is a little lace cravat. What a lucky
Princess, to have so many beautiful
frocks. She has dozens of them, but not
one black dress: a very pale green is her
favorite color, which is seen in several of
her tea gowns, one of maize and white is
said to be "indescribably dainty."
Alexandra has an abundance of every
day frocks for all seasons and ail occa
sions. Numerous are the mohair and
clotn dresses, all of which are lined with
shot silks in contrasting colors. Her gowns
of" grass linen are all silk-lined, the linini:
matching either the figures or stripes em
broidered on the linen or are of tbe same
tone as the linen. The Princess' mother
has wisely seen that her daughter
is also provided with every comfort loving
foresight can provide, as numerous are
also her robes de chambre and petticoats
of the delightful Zenana fabric, which is
crinkled silk above and the softest of wool
beneath. There are also silk, woolen and
cambric neglicees galore.
Her mantles and cloaks are not numer
ous, but show much sense in the selection.
A military-looking coat is of fawn cloth,
trimmed with silk soutache of the same
shade, and an ecra lace shoulder-cape is
over pink accordion-pleated chiffon and
has a pink chiffon ruche round the neck.
The lingerie is exquisitely fine, real torchon
and Valenciennes lace trimming predomi
nating.
Boots, shoes and slippers of every de
scription (quite numerous enough to stock
a small store) will accompany the Princess
to her new home. There are riding boots
of the newest cut and strong leathern
waiting boots. Besides there are red kid
shoes with gold studs and bronze shoes
with studs to match. Cromwell shoes in
tan with large bronze buckles and stylish
kid shoes for practical wear. All these
boots, etc., have round toes and moderate
heels.
A chic froc for Monterey is of a willow
green taffeta embroidered with flowers of
a lighter shade. The bodice is covered
with the sheerest crass linen embroidered
in tiny pinfc rose buds; bands of insertion
allow "pale green silk to show.
Another lovely confection is also of grass
linen of the finest quality. It is entirely
lined, with a silk which changes from mauve
,to crimson. The bodice is a work of art,
being covered with embroidery of a cash
aierian desien, in which several colors
. blend beautifully. A hat of green straw,
i trimmed with California violets and green
I tulle is most becoming.
| Then if you want one of the dearest
| little frocks of this same popular fabric
purchase thirteen yards from one of our
leading stores of the semi-transparont
grass linen embroidered all over with
siljeen violets and long green stems. You
can bave either very pale violets or those
• of a dark hue, according as you desire to
i have the lining of mauve or violet Bilk.
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 10, 1896.
! Such a dress will be very expensive, but
j equally lovely.
In Paris large quantities of a snow-white
■ grass linen is being used with much suc
j cess. For instance, from a celebrated
I house comes a gown of white glace,
! sprigged with black. The skirt is entirely
j composed of this silk and the bodice of
i white glace, over which is the white linen
I with bands of tambour embroidery run
with tiny black velvet baby ribbon. The
sleeves are of the same and the bodice and
sleeves are finished with a roll of black
velvet.
A fascinating costume, suitable for many
functions, is of a pinkish chine silk, cov
j ered with a small blurred figure. The very
I ample sKirt is composed entirely of the
j silk, and the bodice of creamy wnite lawn
over a pale-pink glace. There is a lovely
I yoke, composed of tucks and fine inser
tion. Then there is a novel arrangement
of two pairs of pink silken scarfs. These
start from the waist in front and behind,
and are drawn up to the arm hole, leaving
a free end to fall graceful!}- over the pretty
sleeves. These scarfs are edged on both
sides with three thread-like lines of black
velvet ribbon. An extravagant concep
tion, which should not be given much
thought except by those who can have
A> AFTERNOON TOILET OF BLUE CANVAS
numerous toilette?. With it goes a true
j picture hat of pink shirred tulle, veiled
! with white. Pink roses form a cache
peigne, and there are three choux of black
and pink tulle.
Can you imagine, for a fair-haired
beauty, a creation of pale-green moire shot
with a golden shade and adorned with
creamy lace which covers the bodice? A
dress of blue moire has the water mark
followed out with small black spangles.
This idea of tracing the water mark on
moires with sequins or spangles is a de
cided novelty, and a very effective one.
The bodice matches, and* is draped with
blue tulle, scattered with diamonds.
Sleeves have vanished from all French
evening gowns which emanate from the
best houses. Little puffs of tulle or lace
have taken their place, and a bow of rib
bon or a small bunch of flowers is usually
added. Light gloves almost reaching the
shoulder are worn.
Numerous are the demands for Louis
Seize gowns, so you can appreciate one of
chine silk, which has a white ground cov
ered with red flowers. The bodice is of
black satin, the basque is full, and with it
is worn an ample fichu of white chiffon,
which ia bordered with three full frills, and
they drape the arm from the elbow of the
close-fitting sleeve. A bunch of crimson
flowers appears at one side of the bodice,
and the lining of this effective gown is of
black glace taffeta.
A very beautiful Parisian gown is of
white moire embroidered with seed pearls
on the pattern of the water mark. The
low bodice is of white gauze covered with
spangles and diamonds. One from the
same source for a matron is of black and
pink Pekin satin. The bodice is of pink
satin veiled with black gauze and finished
with black velvet bows.
Some of the gowns now being worn in
Paris on the boards of the Francais must
be truly charming. Mme. Brandes appears
in one scene in a gown of yellow cloth
over which is a scroll-like design in yellow ;
silk. A ruche and frill of chiffon com
plete the skirt. The ample sleeves of
chiffon are built up on. a foundation of
yellow silk. On the bodice there is a deep
frill of the chiffon. It is further beautified '
with a triangular-shaped trimming of in- I
sertion, through which run tiny ribbons of
black velvet. These are tied in choux on
both sides.
A little bonnet of green straw is worn
with this, and it is trimmed with two
bunches of yellow roses. Diadem-like in
front lay a broad cold band caught down
by cabocbons in jet. At tne sanoe time
Mme. Barlet appeared in a silk-lined
crepe costume. In front the skirt was
arranged in panels, between which ap
peared pleated gauze. The short, full
sleeves were of orange velvet covered
with an artistic pattern. Down the front
of the bodice was a plat of fine lace, and at
the neck and sleeves appeared black
rushes of chiffon. In most Parisian
dresses this touch of black is noticeable.
In the third act Mme. Barlet was ex
quisitely robed in a tea eown which I bave
Dad sketched for your benefit, as it is such I
a youthful and beautiful gown, and re- j
member how it is arranged. Over an un
dress of blue chiffon, flashing with many
silver spangles, fell a robe of yellow satin.
Garlands of roses, painted with true ar
tistic sense, adorned tbe rich material;
long branches were trailing all round the
edge of the skirt, while single flowers
or small bunches peeped forth among the
folds. The satin was in front cut short,
and gave the appearance of a high be.lt,
encircling filmy folds of chiffon. It was
edged with ruchings of black tulle, a black
velvet ribbon round the throat striking
the corresponding note. A pointed waist
coat of guipure, epaulettes of spangles,
cloud-like chiffon sleeves, and some roses
tucked in the corsage gave the finishing
touches to this beautiful gown.
But the most fascinating costume worn
was donned by Mme. Brandes in the first
act. It was composed of unbleached lawn
over silk of the same tint, The gown was
cut to perfection, and the skirt was
absolutely plain. The bodice had a
boxpleat down the front and her
waist was encircled with a belt
of leather, which exactly matched
the lawn, as did also her shoes — sun
shade, and at her throat was a most
becoming touch of color, the ruche being
of rose pink, which appeared at the throat
and cuff*. Her large straw hat was cov
ered with roses, and the satin ribbon in it
matched the ruche exactly. Almost as
charming was her evening toilette of
mignonette green shaded satin, ronnd the
low neck of which was arranged a fichu of
mousseline de soie, lace edged. On the
shoulders it was fastened with tufts of
rose-pink velvet and bunches of violets.
Here and there on the bodice flashed
beautiful rhinestone buttons mounted in
copper.
In "Les Danichefs," another French play
now running in Paris, some notable toil
ettes are seen. Madame Tessandier wore,
in the Parisian scene, a superb lavender
colored of velvet cut a ia princess. The
large collar with stole-like ends was of
velvet and exquisitely embroidered in em
eralds, gold and silver, edged by a tiny frill
of lavender chiffon, but at the throat and
sleeves was some rare old lace. The lin
ing was of emerald green satin. Another
gorgeous robe was of lemon colored velvet.
The back of the body was absolutely plain.
The front was composed of a loose coat
made entirely of chinchilla. It opened on
a waistcoat of the velvet richly covered
with go!d and jewels. The narrow jeweled
belt, which kept it in place, appeared also
at the back. On the left side of the skirt
was fastened a huge bouquet of Parma
violets. Though the dress was decollete
the sleeves were long and tightly stretched
over the arm.
Among some truly lovely trousseau
gowns, just completed, 1 have selected a
few to describe. A gown of black and
white striped silk is finished round the
bottom by a narrow band of black satin,
caught at intervals with turquoises and
gold buttons. The bodice io made of the
silk, with box pleats; these are veiled in
creamy lace, which is arranged a la jabot
over them. Tbe vest is of accordion
kilted chiffon. The lace collar is orna
mented with trimmings of gold and tur
quoises.
A lovely gown of crepe de chine has its
skirt edged with ttiree tiny rows of
Valenciennes, the sleeves and bodice oe
inc of the same crepe and ornamented
with deep corselet and revers of pale blue
silk covered with guipure and a full vest
of creme crepe. A bow of blue ribbon and
a dainty bunch of violets complete a gown
well worthy of our consideration.
A plain skirt of blue satin draped with
net embroidered in silver and pearls goes
with a bodice covered with the same net,
which ia completed by a waistband and
shoulder straps of pale blue velvet. A
small flounce of the lace forms the sleeves.
Another simple but smart gown is
of a plain blue canvas, the skirt of
which is a broad band of folded silk.
Vest and collar are of a blue-and-white
striped velvet. With this gown is worn
a blue satin chip hat, lined with white;
whit- tulle surrounds tne crown in a full
ruche. Three blue quills stand erect at
the left side.
The first hats in which tulle figured
were charming, but now it bids fair to be
come common, so generally is it used. In
shades, one veiling the other should never
be indulged in on amateurish hats, as only
the French imported hats have the proper
air and style to make such a chapeau a
success. So foolishly have most hats been
overloaded with trimmings of all descrip
tions that it is with relief one reads of the
Princess Alexandra's simple hats. One is
composed of shaded pink roses, veiled
with tulle, at the right side of which are
three blacK ostrich plumes and a black
aigrette. A hat of black satin straw is
turned up at the back and is adorned with
black chiffon and deep rink azaleas. A
chip hat of a delicate pink shade
has a dented crown, straw bows
are in front, and clusters of wild roses on
either side, and an aigrette is formed of a
single white rosebud. It would certainly
be well if some women would learn a les
son from thedescription o! these chapeaux,
all of which are free of all oddities and ex
aggerations.
Grass lawn, although a simple, inexpen
sive looking fabric, has proved itself
capable oi any amount of elaboration, and
is to be seen plain, striped with lace and
sequin incrusted. embroidered and covered
with lace appliqne, and is used on woolen,
silk and alpaca dresses with excellent
results.
For the fourth season is blue and green
again fashionable.
At the last "drawing-room" many
nioire trains were interwoven with metal,
and numerous are the gowns of chiffon
and lace which are traced with silver
thread, gold tinsel or silver and studded
with pearls. The tulle gown, although
charming, is doomed, being a very expen
sive frocn and sadly perishable. A nov
elty is ihe application of heavy Bilk em
broidery, jet and paillettes upon such
ethereal fabrics as mou3seline de soie.
When jet as an embroidery is used mousse
line almost always forms the groundwork,
and beautiful is the result when gold or sil
ver are skillfully employed. Thedesiensof
each valuable laces as Brussels or antique
f»oint have been detached from the ground,
aid on silk or satin and allowed to form
part of the embroidery, often powdered
with paillettes. Expense certainly is sel
dom considered by the smart woman now
adays. Honiton lace is again in favor.
We will be glad to see it once more.
On the fronts of some of the newest
evening bodices are strings of pearls which
are caught up on the front with a hand
some ornament and jewel a la Tudor.
Satin is much used at present and many
of the latest gowns have thtir seams out
lined with steel and jet beads, the bodice
invariably showing a similar treatment.
The most fashionable of the moire vel
vaUnand moire moulle have a beautiful
silvary sheen, and numerous are the deli
cate shades in which tbev are to be had.
Many artificial flowers are used on ball
gowns; they are usually veiled in tulle.
Chatelaines of flowers are frequently
seen, and roses without foliage are a lad.
Never before has straw been so much
employed as an embroidery ; for instance, a
Paris dress, frotL one of "the most noted
houses is of black satin combined with
black velvet trimmed with straw, worked
with mother-of-pearl. The result may be
excellent, it certainly is novel if nothing
else. Shot and chameleon effects appear
in both materials and trimmings and now
form the groundwork of many floral
chines.
Purchase no red fabrics unless you must
have one luncheon gown, then have a ser^e
for the bouse, otherwise you will be the re
verse of smart, red having been completely
banished, and right glaa I am that it no
longer is worn in the evening, as delicate,
lovely gowns are faded looking affairs
when brought in contact with so strong a
hue. Crimson is used with good results
occasionally, as a cravat, and bunches of
red poppies are seen on numerous fans
and hats.
Now that tbe sleeves are decreasing in
size we may expect, by fall, to consider a
skirt four yards in circumference ample,
and as the sleeves diminish, so are the
revers shrinking and tbe collars are like
wise affected.
The principal difference between our
skirts this season and last is to be found
in the fronts, which are now plain and
tight over the hips, the fullness being all
at the back, a more becoming arrange
ment than formerly.
In Paris blue serge is being much used
and in England the light drab cloths so
much liked by French women is quite "the
thin*." I cannot understand tbe hold
alpaca and mohair has obtained on the
fashionable world, as for my part I would
prefer the simplest little cloth gown to the
handsomest mohair or alpaca one that
could be made. However, this season is
likely to see the last of these materials.
There has just been placed on the market
a delightful new weave of canvas of a crepe
like texture. It is extremely thin and
very expensive, so it will never become
common, a strong recommendation to
many.
For those who do not care for Tattcrsall
waistcoats, and yet do not wish to make
the extravagant outlay necessary for the
tulle and mousseline de soie ones, I would
suggest that they should have a waistcoat
made by a good woman of an excellent qual
ity of white silk or satin, for with this as
a foundation they can readily arrange
themselves ruffles of hemstitched or j
tucked muslin, which will wash perfectly
and c nable the economical to always be I
well supplied with effective and pretty
waistcoats. Pale blue, white, pink anil
lavender muslin can be used, and fre
quently the frills are edged with lace.
When a straight loose front is more be
coming the muslin can be tucked or in
crustea with lace, producing an excellent
effect. The foundation must, of course,
fasten down the back or at one side and
must be well boned.
The new shade of hyacinth blue is cer
tainly stylish, but becoming to but few.
Mauy shirt waists are being made up in '
silk and linen of this color, and with white
linen collars and cuffs, are great favorites.
Some manufacturers are trying to intro
duce rep, but I trust without success, as
it had never been a favorite of mine.
When mentioning my dislike to alpaca
and mohair I should have added that it
does make excellent petticoats for the
country and a good lining for skirts.
Fiom France have been sent out the
latest novelties in gloves. The backs are
elaborately sewn with a double twist of
purse silk^ intermixed with small beads.
In many cases these are gold, but some
times the three stripes each display a
different color — brown, blue and ruby,
tinted iridescent beads. They are to be
had in such a variety that one need never
have a pair that does not harmonize with '
their gowns in coloring. Highly colored
gloves in many of the so-called "latest
summer shades" should be let severely
alone.
Tnose who are about to furnish their
homes should remember that for a dining
room beautiful real old English oak is
never out ot style, and now antiquated
old oak Welsh "dressers," which take the
place of buffets or sideboards, are the rage
in London. They make admirable back
grounds for blue china, and old brass and
copper jugs and plates. Sometimes in
such rooms are placed "gate tables," which
are valued possessions. Rarely are more
t'-an two seen in such a room, as they are
of goodly size. Many halls also are fitted
in oak, and ereat is the variety to be
had in hall chairs and tables. The latest
tables are round, and have places for
china and books.
When oak is considered too dark aud
heavy, either Chippendale or Sherraton are
usually selected. Much bedroom furniture
is also made up in these styles. The toilet
tables having heart-shaped glasses are
much liked. Houses should be furnished
in harmony, but alas! how many are?
Avoid pretentious shams and purchase
good things when starting out to keep
house even if you can only have a few
handsome chairs and tables at first.
Those living in small houses are fre
quently at a loss to know how best to en
tertain their friends, so now East buffet
A PRINCESS GOWN.
luncheons are frequently given and are
fashionable functions. A large table in
the drawing-room is usually daintily
spread with snowy damask and adorned
with choice blossoms, bonbons, salted
almonds, etc., in cut glass or silver dishes.
On a side table may be arranged piles of
plates, knives, forks and spoons. The
guests are supposed to be seated at small
tables, but at many swell affairs they are
not. Then two of your friends can pour
chocolate and boullion at small tables.
Maids or waiters serve the lunch, which
usually does not consist of more than
eight courses. Such affairs are in great
vogue, being delightfully informal and
easily prepared, and as well-trained waiters
and waitresses can now be readily secured
here make entertaining a pleasure.
An English magazine has been asked to
start a competition and ask "What are the
first essentials of a gentlewoman?" A
number of bright women lately discussed
the question and one replieo* "By her
boots and gloves," and another said, "By
her skirt-binding." Well, a great deal can
be said on the subject as most of us have
certain very positive ideas.
Martyrs to seasickness will hear with
pleasure that the channel has been twice
crossed in rough weather by a wretched
sailor without unpleasant results after
taking "Yanatas." I should think it well
worth a tr.al, although constitutions are
variously affected.
Women who rely on their "cup of tea"
will be wise if they ever visit Venezuela to
take tea with them, as the natives regard
it with disfavor, and send to a drugstore
for it if one insists on having it, and the
quality obtainable is said by one who has
experimented to be "simply abominable
and like a dose of senna."
"Makcella."
FOR MEN.
There is a prediction that the vivid
greens of springtime, which have been re
produced for us in shirts and ties, are to be
displaced by an absurdly brilliant shade of '
violet. Truly, if ail predictions were veri- i
fied, we would be gorgeous to behold, but
violet will never enjoy great favor, as it is
very trying to the complexion.
A London tailor insists that knickers for
cycling should be made to taper, as he in
forms us that fullness just above the knee
ia clumsy.
No longer will a fashionable man be i
seen In a Norfolk jacket. It is a thing of
the past, and the loose rough sack coat is j
considered smart.
Him writes: '"Plain stockings with a !
tartan.' says an English contemporary, j
'have taken the place of the loud-pat- '
terned stockings, the tartan with a gaudy !
pattern on the part turned down.' Also,
The most fashionable shirts this season
wiil be soft-fronted, in pink and blue, and
the tie a plain sailor's knot.' All tnrs may
be the latest from 'Lunnon,' but for its
correctness I will not vouch."'
Polo seems to have more votaries here
than golf, however, such excellent courses !
can be had not only in this City, but
across the bay as well.
In good time it will become popular. It
should be noted that the golf held suit is
of tweed. In America sack coats are worn
in preference to the Norfolk jacket. A
recent English authority suggests a tweed
jacket, with two gussets in the back to al
iow easy and free play to the arm when
tbe wearer is driving; and this also does
away with the band at the bottom of the
knickers, there being in its place a single !
cloti strap. The cap is of tweed, the same ;
material as the suit. The shirt is of
Madras or cheviot. The hose have long- !
ribbed tops turned over, making a'■
sort of heavy band just over the j
calf of the leg. They are of heavy I
worsted, in brown, or tans, or dark '■
mixtures, either plain or ribbed. The golf ,
chibs have special uniforms for receptions,
briirht red coats with gold buttons and
other insignia being the rule among the !
English and Scotch links. These uniforms j
should, of course, be worn on all formal i
occasions in the clubhouse or on match
days. And this rule is the general one for
meets — golfers and other oreanizations of
sporting men. The club dress uniform is
full dress. The club uniform is, therefore,
NEW TO-DAT.
THAT HAIR 0W
1 YOUR FACE,
Arms or Keck can be removed permanently-
only by the Electric Needle. When you have
tried in vain powders or lotions, making the
growth thicker thau ever, you will come to me
and say, "iou told th- truth.'" Performed
by me, hair is removed perfectly, painlessiv
and permanently. .No other one am.
4% THAT
gray
.'IIfHAIR .
does not become yon, but
makes you look older than you should. It can
be easily restored to original color at my par-
lors, or you can buy my
4-DAY HAIR RESTORER, IL^!*
Not sticky or greasy. Best on earth.
PERFECT COMPLEXIONS
can be kept so only by the use of a good Skin
tood to keep the skin healthy, clear and
smooth. My '
LOLA MONTEZ CREME
is the best; <oc a jar. Lasts three months. !
Only way you can keep from getting tan, |
freckles or sunburn is by using this creme
Good for burns and insect bites.
TKI II, KftY Ladiesou t of city sending this |
1 111 11/ DVA. ad with 10c in stamps will re-
ceive a book of instructions and a box of
LOLA MONTEZ CREME
And Face Powder free.
MKS. NETTIE HARRISON, Dermatologist,
40-42 Geary street, San Francisco,
perfect full dress for golf dinners, dances,
etc., just as the limit uniform is for limit
balls.
Blue serge is always worn in preference
to anything else for yachting suits. For
this purpose they are made with a reefer
for peajacket, in case the weather is bad.
Colored shirts are worn.
Duck trousers and black sack coats wiil
be the costumes seen on the tennis ground.
Another attempt is being made to intro
duce braid on evening trousers, a hideous
fashion which should not be tolerated.
The dress or evening coat in vogue ia of a
soft fine vicuna, smooth and with a tine
twill, or of soft fine corkscrew. It is freed
with silk.
A frock coat and gray trousers, top hat
and gloves of the new shade of tan are
worn to garden parties and informal re
ceptions during the summer. Last sum
mer on such occasions many gray cloth
frocks were seen. Patent leather shoes
are, of course, worn wheu so garbed.
On the seashore a morning lounge suit
should be worn, with a colored linen shirt
with a white collar and cuffs matching
the shirt. A straw hat is the only correct
chapeau.
An indigo blue serge suit of fine texture
is a very necessary and acceptable adai
tion to any man's wardrobe at this season
Bathing robes are still being made of
crasn or Turkish toweling. The slippers
match. Light colors are preferable, for
instance, those having a white ground,
with stripes of pale blue, pink and ecru
are becoming, or those in a solid color are
liked. The color should be delicate, and
it is well to remember that blue and ecru
retain their color better than pink.
When entering any such public place a3
a theater or restaurant a man must always
precede the gentlewoman whom he es
corts, as he thus clears a passage for her
if there is anytning of a crowd, but on en
tering a church the lady precedes her
escort. c. C.
He Stood Corrected.
"Johnny, I want you to run a message
for me."
"Shan't."
"Johnny, is that the way to speak to
your father?"
"If you please, I shan't!!'
NEW TO-DAY.
i Special Saving Sale }
♦ *
.cms.... *
' * IMITATION CUT GLASS—*
* Almost as bright and clear as *
T the genuine— at these SPE- ♦
j || CIAL prices until Wednesday i
#, night : Fruit or Salad Bowls, 5.
» '2.=> c and 35c ; Large Cake «
* Dishes, 30c; .Water Pitchers, ♦
* 45c ; Cream Pitchers, 15c ; Pre- ♦
♦ serve or Icecream Saucers, 50c *
T and 60c. per dozen, etc. See 2J
£ them in the window. |j
' * THAT BIG CHINA STORE- «
* THAT BIG CHINA STORE- <
* A Quarter of a Block' Below Shr eve's.
, > WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO., *
| * 528 and 530 Market St., *
'{ 27 and 29 Sutter St., *
, ♦ BELOW MONTGOMERY. ♦
i ♦ «
13PP c>///\//// %/nr/iCO
22 Geary St., Near Kearny. I
A CHOICE I
COLLECTION! j
. Fancy Weaves— 7sc per Yard |
Fancy Weaves— sl.oo per lard i
Fancy Weaves— sl.2s per Yard I
Fancy Weaves— per Yard |
Fancy Weaves— sl.7s per Yard I
Fancy Weaves— per Yard I
Fancy Weaves— s2.2s per Yard I
Fancy Weaves— per Yard |
Fancy Weaves— sB.so per Yard |
The largest collections and of the H
most recent styles. si
SAMPLES FORWARDED.
GOODS SENT C. O. D.
R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY.
FREUDS CORSET HOUSE.
SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS
200 Dozen Ladies'
Black and Drab Corsets,
Reduced From $1.75 to $1.00.
ft £*A~ J • — . ,
CAUTION — Havlnjr no agoncJes or branch
sze c r s can p-cha 3 ed s o n r y b a roS
Mail orders receive prompt attention.
Illustrated Catalogue mailed free.
MAKE NO 3HSTAKE IX OUR ADDRESS
3VE. PHEUD t&s SOIST,
74a-744 narket St. and 10-12 Grant Aye.
' .
IT r Hi i tfim nflf lEP H
nny«o y «l ectr , J ty at *} a BitUn first sitting
■ ■ '■■■'.. ' === .
