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IF SHE WOULD CATCH A HUSBAND IN SAN FRANCISCO
Wkat Ske Must Be
ar\d Do to Please J~linr\
Since time immemorial the standard of
feminine loveliness has ever been— and, for
tuat matter, still is— a moot question.
The ancient poet sang in wild discordant
notes of coral lips, low overhanging brow
and distended nostrils.
The sweet singers of Greece tuned their
lyres to tell of Ion? supple limbs, a figure
like that of a godless and perfection of
The whole world then had but one ideal,
and it perpetuated her in song, in painting
and in sculpture.
Her influence was all permeating, and
so thoroughly was the time imoued with
her that it wns close to the end of the
seventeenth century before she ever began
to relax her hold.
The moderns, with the exception of the
painter and the sculptor, set up for wor
ship a bewildering array of idols. Milo's
Venus was relegated to obscurity and for
Tall ideals, short ideals, ideals with soft
rounded limbs and ideals whose paucity
of flesh scarcely concealed the angularity
of their bones were scattered broadcast.
The novelist then became the most pro
lific expounder of the ideal. He took
many liberties with the idol. He gave
her a mien severe anu then again a sunny,
dimpling smile. He added or subtracted
at will from the recognized classic length
of limb. He devoted mellifluous and
abundant phrase to the description ol her
eyes. He crowned her with a golden
mesh or an ebony coronet. With one ex
ception he took no liberties with her
classic features. Now and then he
chipped off the very tip of her inspiring
nose and coined the phrase retrousse to
explain his sin.
So long had the majority looked to the
romancer to explain his ideal that the
fin de siecle novelist, who indulges in no
descriptions and hints vaguely at soul in
fluence, left it with nary a leg to stand
Then, to add to the perplexities of the
day, there is that ambiguous expression
unmistakably of woman's coinage — the
This new idol is the most mystifying of
all. The woman explains her variously,
delightfully indefinitely, with ruoues and
shrugs that convey much but mean little.
With the men apparently lay the solu
tion, and being ever of an inquiring mind
I made my pilgrimage among the promi
nent men of the Ciiy, discovering little
that was new but eliciting mucd valuable
I know for a certainty that man's
beauty is in many cases much the same as
womnn's accepted standard; that there
is a Darby for every Joan. . I have per
force lost all faith in the much-vaunted
affinity of opposites. I have had proof
positive that all men do not marry their
ideals; that some men have not forgotten
the trick of bJush-ng, and that ail deep
down in their hearts have set up an idal,
which to them represents the acme of the
truly noble and beautiful, and at her
shrine all bow with devotion and rever
James Phelan was the first victim of my
inquisition and a graceful victim he was.
Smiling and serene he met the ail impor
tani question and answered wiih firmness
and precision. I listened attentively while
he explained the goddess of his dream. His
exposition was of more value than be ever
could imagine. I snew he was the presi
dent of the Art Association and a man of
rare intelligence, a pas-ionate admirer of
the beautiful. Further, 1 knew he is con
sidered the greatest matrimonial prize nf
the .'•eason and that when he wins the girl
A HUMAN EYE
JKe Gamera's Visior\
Photographs Jaken by the Cylin
drograph Exhibited at
The latest invention in field photography
is called the cylindrograph. This is an
improvement even upon the human eye,
and by its use a much wider range of al
most any given subject may be imprinted
on the negative than can be taken in by
the nafced eye.
Excellent specimens of this work may
be seen at the -outhwest corner of the
gallery in the Mechanics' Pavilion, where
there is an unoDtiusive group of photo
graphs, which is a sample of the photog
raphy done in connection with the field
work of the California State Mining Bu
reau during 1*95-96.
These pictures were, at the request of
the management committee of the Me
chanics' Fair, donated by Mr. Crawford,
the State Mineralogist, to the Mechanics'
Institute, and th-ey comprise excellent
specimens of the work of the field assist
ants of the California State Mining Bu
reau. These picture> illustrate chiefly the
topography and neology of the oil fields of
Southern California, and many of them
are remarkable for having been taken
v. ith the latest form of apparatus used in
field photography, the cyiindrograph.
This instrument has.a compass which is
even greater than the angle of vision, and
the pictures made with it give a more
comprehensive idea of the topography of
a locality than any picture which can be
made by other means. There are also
smaller pictures, which are well executed
and are very instructive, especially the
ones illustrating: the oil springs of Ventura
The "last-mentioned photographs show:
First, an oil spnne; second, a stream of
maltha or heavy viscous petroleum — this
picture demonstrating how the oil from
the spring, after losing its most volatile
constituents by exposure to the air, crawls
down the mountainside in a stream of
niineral tar or maltha, as ii is technically
tailed; third, se-pa. es of petroleum from
n-^ures in hard sandstone roc
The most striking ol the cyjindrotypea
of his c oice the teieeraph will flash the
news to all tho four corners of the globe
and in a six-head will the newspapers an
nounce the engagement to an admiring
and curious public.
He parried my first question, "Lay
bare my soul," and then he found a re
porter, who, in quest of news, knows no
mere}', and deciaed that he could do no
better than quote what Bancroft said his
ideal of California's effigy should be:
"She should be large and supple- limbed;
low-browed, with a flood of golden hair
veiling her exquisitely molded form;
deep-blue eyes, whose dreamy languor a
merry recklessness sadly should disturb;
nose and chin Grecian; ripe, luxurious
lips; while expression, voice and attitude
should all betoken an indolent, romantic
nature, overflowing with high, exultant
His quotations were interspersed with
telling asides. Mr. Bancroft's historical
statements have been questioned and
James .f helan reserved the right of differ
ing from his views.
"A flood of golden hair" came under
his displeasure. "Golden hair, no," and
there was the same repetition after "She
should be large * * * low-browed."
But one thing there is no mistaking, Mr.
Phelan's ideal is a California girl.
Major Rathbone was for a moment non
plused at what he considered the very
audacity of my question. Then a look of
fear came over the gallant Major's coun
tenance. "Tell my ideal?" he at last
found tongue to murmur. "I have too
many lady friends. Why, they would say,
'The old wretch! how dare he.' "
But he dared. To Major Rathbone all
I women are beautiful angels — minus the
: wings. And figuratively speaking, the
Major suggests the thought that his only
recret is that his good right arm is not
! long enough to encircle the entire feminine
population of the globe.
There io Southern biood in Allen St. J.
I Bowie's veins, and his tastes are those of
the South. First of all no woman is so
beautiful in Mr. Bowie's eyes as a South
ern woman. If he is fortunate enough to
realize his ideal, she will be a brunette,
tall and stately and Juno like. Her limbs
will be well rounded. Neither flashy nor
thin will she be, but of those proportions
the uninitated are wont to de cribe as just
right. Her eyes will be black as sloes, her
skin like cream. She must be fashionable,
• not necessarily fond of so. iety. Her voice
must, like Cordelia's, be soft and low and
her carriage queenly. She may have as
many fads as she likes so long as they do
not conflict. Above all she must be
I have concluded that the happiest solu
tion to the question, "Why are you a
bachelor?" is susceptibility. I bave found
a living example, and there is no refuting
Edward 8* eidon, who could be leaderof
ihe four hundred if he only said so,
trembled at my question. He is my liv
ing example. "1 have not one ideal. I
am too susceptible. And then at present
I am living in Sausalito, where there are
so many pretty girls. My head is all in a
whirl." Now, which is it? Happy Sau^a
lito or happy Mr. Sheldon?
A. H. Small prayed for time before he
answered the all-absorbing question. His
prayer was granted, and then, after
twenty-four hours for r> flection, Mr.
Small decided that I might just as well
ask him to paint a picture— an impossible
feat for him. Mr. Small acknowledged
himself swamped by the very immensity
of the problem.
I put the question to Mr. Bouvier dur
REMARKABLE CYLINDROGRAPHIC VIEW OF BITUMINOUS SLATES FORMATION ON SANTA PAULA CREEK, VENTURA COUNTY.
[From a photograph now on exhibition at the Mechanics' Institute Fair, taken by W. L. Walts,]
re two panoramic views, each of which
is formed by joining two cylindrograph |
picture*. One of these views shows the I
Santa Paula Canyon in Ventura County,
and the mountain ridge which has been
cut through by the Santa Paula Creek.
The other view, which is taken from a
point on the southwest slope of Mount
Cayetana, also in Ventura County, gives
an extensive view of the oil districts which
are situated ;o the north of the town 01
Santa Paula. It embraces several moun
tain ridges witli their valleys and foothills.
One of the cylindroeraph pictures shows
the Second-street Park oilfield in Los
An.eles City with its forest of derricks,
each of which indicates an oil well. This
picture gives a good idea of the way the
paraphernalia of the petroleum industry
are mixed up wiih the residences in the
part of Los Angeles which is shown.
Not the least instructive scene is one
which shows the way the tunnel- which
arc run for oil are ventilated by what is
known as a hydraulic air-compressor. This
view also shows the manner of illuminat
ing these tunnels by reflected sunlight.
These precautions are necessary on ac
couni of the inflammable eas which tills
these tunnela and which, in more than
one instance, has occasioned loss of life.
We are told that when the air-compressor
is not running some of these oil tunnels
become filled with the deadly gas in a few
hours, so that it would be impossible to
live in them for many minutes and that to
light a match therein would be certain
j death. These tunnels are run to cut through
the oil-yielding neks from which oil and
water flow and arr conducted by a gutter in
the floor of the tunnel to receiving tanks,
wherein the oil separates from the water
and is stored.
THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1896.
Mr. Phelan's heart under the
Major Rathbone's regret
that his arm is not big enough.
If shf would please Allen St.
J. Bowie she must be musically
Edward Sheldon's heart.
ing business hours, in the very midst of
letters, stenographers, statements, royal
ties, etc., and for a mom- nt 1 confused
him — but only for a moment. Here is a
stenographic report of Mr. Bouvier's an
"I suppose every man has some sort of an
ideal, in business hours and out of them
I very much fear that my own personal
ideas are not in accord with prevailing
modern sentiments. The whole world
must agree on the qualities of mind and
heart and possibly the matter of facial
Ar\ American May JRule Qreat Britain.
Translated tor The Call from the PkU Figaro, most fascinating among the eligible Araer- When that gentleman died— eight years
The Americans, who are always fond of icans in Europe. aeo — the Prince, it is said, was his debtor
astonishing the old country, have just The Princess Victoria of Wales, second for £1000,000, which the children of the
made a discovery which fills them with daughter of the Pr nee and Princess of defunct claimed,
joy and pride. Wales, is still unmarried, though her Every one must recall the famous bac
They start out upon a tragic hypo- eldest and youngest sisters have both gone carai game, when it was asserted that the
thesis. to the matrimonial altar. A number of Wilsons had lent the Prince a million
"Suppose, " they say, "the Duke of York indications point to the fact that Princess pounds. Baron Hirsch, too., was said to
should meet with a premature death and Victoria's family are not entirely In differ- have won royal favor by lending about the
the Duchess of File and their chi.dren— ent to the del.cate attentions ihat W. W. same amount. As ill luck would have it,
who would be called upon to ascend the Astor has been show ing her of late. She Baron Hirsch died, his heirs claimed the
j throne of England? The Princess Vie- is a bright, buxom girl, with a good deal money, and it is supposed the Prince,
toria of Wales. But this event would of her mother's winning personality, menaced by compromising lawsuits, was
bring something else in its suite — a thoupn she has inherited too much of the only too liappy to rind a savior in W. W.
Prince consort; an American, William heavy Guelph features to be the beauty Astor, who was charmed to attach him-
Waldorf Astor." that her mother was. self to the future King of England by ties
Wliat! Is there an engagement between Among the proofs brought forward of of gratitude.
the Princess «nd the money king? Per- her coming engagement to W. W. Astor Afterward came visits from the Prince
baps; at least, there are rumors ol it. the most significant fact, they say, to Clivedon. . followed by visits of other
This is how they reason. is that th>' Princess Maud, since her mar- members of the royal family. Astor's in-
Ever since the death of bis wife, which riage, has been permitted to accept from vitations to Sandringham became more
happened about two years ago, William him a marvelous diamond. The royal frequent, and from this growing intimacy
Waldorf Astor has transferred his domi- family does not accept presents from has arisen the supposiiion that he baa
cile to England, where he has purchased every hand and refuses point blank if asked for the hand of the Princess, and
the fine castle of Clivedon. Recently he the giver is not on terms of intimacy, that he will not be refused,
gave, in honor of the Prince of Wales, a Then W. W. Astor must be an intimate The barrier of birth?
fairy fete, which was considered a step friend. This obstacle did not arrest the royal
toward achieving an avowed ambition of It is well known that the Prince of family when it wanted to accept among
his— that of being created a Daronet. Ii Wales only has a revenue of £500,000, a its members the Marquis of Lome or the
was also considered a step toward higher slender income when one compares it with Duke of Fife. It is by pure courtesy that
aspirations. that of certain other subjects of the Queen, John Campbell Esq. is called Marquis of
This higher ambition is a matiimoniai who possess incomes that reach the mil- Lome, and in all official document- the
one. A few months ago W. W. Astor was lion mark. It is not a secret that on sev- husband of Princess Louise is not de
supposed to be a pretendent for the hand eral occasions the Prince has had to make nominated otherwise than "John Camp
of Lady Randolph ChurchiU, widow of the loans, and that his largest creditor was bell, commonly called Marquis of Lome."
late Lord Randolph Churchill, who is the Sir James Mackenzie. The Duke of Fife owes his title to the
The picture that A. H. Small
could not paint.
Alfred Bonnier 1 * ideal — bru
nette or blonde.
Claude Terry Hamilton
blushed and cried "Which!"
To please Mr. Costignn she
must say a good word for suf
frage and be a Republican.
beauty is only a question of taste, but I do
not see in the modern fashionable woman
any exemplification of the ideal human
form divine or female loveliness, as you
pu» it. My idea of loveliness in the female,
form is softness, grace, in both movement
and lines and strength all combined. This
i 3 simply what nature intended and tiiis is
what you cannot see in the modern corset
ed figure which destroys nature's curves,
weakens muscles where they should
be strong and otherwise shatters the
ideal. This is all the more strange to me,
Mr. Dohrmann hesitates —
there are so many.
" Just mind enough to read
the paper and catch the boat.'*
Rabbi Voorsanger regards
it as an ethical question.
Dr. Bizet fixes hisidral upon
no outward form, but on the
spark that ani)nales the soul.
as poets, painters and sculptors from time
immemorial to the very present moment
are perpetuating the true ideally beautiful
ligure which I refer to, the figure that is
inseparable from a large waist; I mean, of
course, the proportionately large waist of
th« Venus of Milo. In both the sa.ons
this year in Paris there are many nudes
both in the paintings and the sculptures,
and the deal figure can be found in al.
the works of the greater painters, but no
girl with a waf-pi^h waist ever posed as
model for any of those subjects.
Artist Joullin worships at the
tnrinc of innocence.
Frank Worthing finds his
ideal in Maxine Elliott.
} Manager Frawley draws the
line at women who read detec
Henry Stetson wants her
Various Ideals of
"As to an opinion about blondes or
brunettes, that is too dangerous a ques
tion for a man who has many friends. 1 '
Claude Terry Hamilton shrieked a dis
cordant "Which?" to my simple little
question as to his ide:;lof feminine loveli
ness. And then he blushed and he stam
mered and he laughed and then blushed
again. I wonder, oh I wonder who she is,
A. B. Costigan felt he needed time be
fore answering the all-important question.
He had an ideal, but bo prosaic a proceed
ing as picturing her in words had never
presented itself to Mr. Costigan. So he
went over to the quiet shades of Tiburon,
thought the matter over and here is a
copy of the description he mailed me:
"Her nair niusl be of a reddish hue, v.-ith
a disposition that is amiable at all times.
Not necessary be pretty, but with eyes
that speak at every glance. Musically in
clined and some thought given to society.
Fond of outtoor life and a, mind that is all
her own. Dwells very little on the subject |
of dress and occasionally speaks a good
word for woman suffrage, and if she were
a man, would be a rank Republican.
"Her general character should be inimi
President Dohrmann of the Merchants'
Association represents the concentrated
business ability of this City. His ideal,
on that account alone, is not one to be
sneezed at. When first questioned Mr.
Dohrmann pleaded his age as an excuse,
but after a little coaxing gracefully yielded
up his secret, and thus spoke ie: "My
father, who lived to the ripe old age of 83,
followed this motto through life, and I,
seeing the wisdom of his course, have
adopted it: 'All wine is good, but some is
better: all women are beautiful, but some
are handsomer.' "
His profession probably accounts for the
minuteness with which Cnarles Heggerty
entered into the description of his ideal,
one of those creations we feel sure inhabit
the skies, but disdain to visit this ter
This is ali that Lawyer Heggerty wants.
A brunette. Five feet six inches tall.
Her eyes are liquid brown. Her complex
ion clear and in her cheeks should glow
the clear bluish red, like the spark from a
live coal. Under no condition must her
nose be pointed sharply, nor retrousse. It
must be a nose Jik that which adorns the
features of Milo's Venus, and of course in
perfect keeping with the proportions of
her face. Her mouth must be small. The
lips bow shaped, not thin, not thick, and
the lower lip must protrud just the
veriest shadow of a bit. Her teeth must
be small, even and white. She should
run to fle^h rather than bones, and have
just mind enough to read a paper and to
enable her to catch the boat.
Iv her home polities! discussions must
|be tabooed. The learned barrister would
far ra her discuss with his idol her old
hat which she had spent the whole day in
"fixing over" than the solar or lunar
eclipse. Her figure must be trim, her
waist in healthful proportion. There
must be no padding, and, above all, she
dare not be pigeon-toed. She must carry
herself erect, and ncr body should 3wing
with an easy grace. Above all things she
must n t care for society. She must
grumble when she has to put on a street
dress, and it must be next to impossible
to induce her to go out.
Manager Frawley's ideal has no com
plexion. Neithei is she facially beauti
ful. She is a womanly woman, dainty
and petite — a woman that a man feels he
should like to tight for. She certainly has
a mind. But the less she reads editorials
Queen, who conferred it on him the day of
his marriage with Princess Louise Vic
toria, eldest daughter of the Prince and
Princess of Wales. The founder of the
family was Adam Duff, a Scotch peddler,
who lived at the beginning of the eight
Uncle Sam cannot get it into his head
that William Waldorf Astor, grandson of
John Jacob Astor, a German peddler,
should be any more incapable than the
Duke of Fife of cutting a good ti ure at
court with the title of Duke of Clivedon.
given by her gracious Majesty the day of
his marriage with her granddaughter.
When it comes to choosing between these
two descendants of peddlers Uncle Sam
naturally inclines toward hi 3 multi
millionaire nephew, who would, in his
eyes, add a considerable quantity of gild
ing to the Princess' escutcheon.
It is said that the English aristocracy
shares his ideas on this point. For ex
ample, the Duchess of Buccleuch, chief
lady in waiting to the Qiuen, who was
formerly very hostile to the invasion o:
Americans, has now accepted more than
one invitation to Clivedon; and there are
Couniess Cowper, the Marchioness of Lon
donderry and a number of other women of
the aristocracy, whose high influence has
contributed to Introduce the American
millionaire into intimacy with the Prince
of Wales, and who have enGed by regard
ing him as a possible pretendent to the
| hand of Princess Victoria.
The son of American democracy, on the
j steps of the British throne, seated one day
perhaps as Prince Consort beside the
Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, Em
press of India, etc. Nothing appears
more exciting to the Americans and noth
ing strikes them as being more natural.
the better is Mr. Frawley going to like
her. There is to be a lot of romance
mixed up in her composition. She will
enjoy a walk and w ar (poor benighted
m;«n in the days of numbers 5 and 6) a
3% or 4 shoe. She ia to enjoy exercise.
She is to be no Bociety lady. She is to
love horses and dogs and pretty gowns;
be musical; read the "Tale of Two Cities"
and "Night and Morning-," bat, oh, how
he should hate her to read detective
stories. The less she knows about house
hold duties the better. She is to De his
pal, his companion, and must not punch
Probably no man is more sought after in
social circles than Harry Stetson. He
shines especially as best man at swell
weddings. He nas had every opportunity
to meet the best the land affords, and con
sequently his ideal is of more than passing
It is a woman with olive skin and large
dark eyes that is especially attractive for
; Mr. Stetson. She is tall and slender and
carries herself well. She cares not for
politics. She is well versed in literature
and art. She is fond of society to a mod
erate extent. She is musically and gen
erally accomplished and athletic to a cer
Joullin, the artist, worships at the shrine
of Donatillo's famous statue, "La Femme
Inconnu." Looking at the cold marble
he feels she must have had a wonderful
mind. Physical beauty and mental at
tainments the artist contends are one and
In the flesh Joullin's ideal is the Eng
lish beauty. For him she more nearly
approaches the clastic. She has a fine fig
ure, a stately carriage.
It is many a day since there has been a
leading man in this City more beloved of
the matinee girl than Frank Worthing.
She hangs his picture in her blue or
white boudoir, and some, I am informed
on most reliable authority, burn inceuse
constantly before it. I do not know ex
actly what the actor thinks of newspaper
people, but I know my reportorial pres
ence succeeded in scaring him most to
death. His lips were blanched. The
veins stood out on his forehead like pieces
of whip-rord. My question evidently re
assured him. "Feminine loveliness alto
gether? Mental and physical? Maxine
Elliott. She represents my ideal, don't
you know? She is perfection, don't you
know? So beautiful, so simple, so un
affected, don't you know? So loyal; so
true; so unselfish." And in Worthing's
rather expressionless eyes there shone a
light that moved tue. So unselfish.
And she is going to marry Nat Good
• win. Ah, Worthing ' you juuge other peo
| pie by yourself.
Dr. Voorsanger at first declined to be
interviewed on what to him meant so ex
; haustive a subject. In ideal womanly
loveliness he saw a theme that required
deep thought and considerable time to
j formulate his opinion-. For him it was
an c hical question — one not to be lightly
dwelt upon. "Say for me," said the
learned gentleman, "that handsome is as
1 hand.-ome does. That is the best I can
say in a lew words on a subject I feel so
Ideal loveliness has no physique, no out
ward form for Dr. L. Bazet. The
neauty of woman for him lies in the life
spark that animates her soul. It is the
intangible, the incomprehensible some
thing that spurs men on to nobler better
things. Tlie power that awakens his
j higher ambitions, the soul which makes
i him strive and cry, "I will be noble, I will
| be gr^at, I will be worthy of you."
AN ASTOR MAY BECOME A KING
jW William Waldorf
Diamond He Tendered princess
Victoria of Wales Was
And then the idea is such a novelty. Up
till now American princesses and duch
esses have abounded, but an American
prince— Prince Astor, Duke of Clivedon—
would be an entirely new departure. Of
course he would have to be naturalized in
England, if be is not already naturalized.
But Astor is of American origin, and he
would remain American at heart and in in
terest, which would suffice for Uncle Sam.
People are talking already of the wed
ding tour, which would naturally be in
America. Prince Astor would not fail to
show his bride a house situated at Sault
Ste. Marie, on Lake Ontario— a house of
very singular construction its balconied
lii st floor overhanging the ground floor; a
I sort of fortress, with loopholes, which
i must have iven the Indians food for re
! flection more than once.
Tae man who built it was a poor Ger
| man emigrant who came to New York in
1783. He made it a headquarters lor trad
ing in furs with the Indians. In 1812
when the war between the United States
and England interfered with his business
he realized his little pile and found that
he had gained two million dollars. Then
he bought tracts of land near New York.
His name was John Jacob Astor.
The tracts of land to-day are traversed
Iby Fifth avenue and Broadway. Such is
the origin of the fortune of $230,000,000, of
which a part belongs to William Waldorf,
Alter visits to palaces, mansions and
villas, all owned by the Astors, it is just
possible that the Princess will ba curious
to make a last visit to see the cemetery of
Trinity Church, wh?re the first wife lies.
Two years ago her casket was covered with
3800 orchids at a dollar apiece, and until
it was consigned to the earth the florist
had orders to renew the fljwers every
day. Since then flowers have never been
wanting, and the florist's bill for the first
year was $30,500.
Will the Princess find fresh flowers oa