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The English Keck. DO you Intend to dine this season? Then be up and doing, or when the Bummons comes that dinner is served you will find yourself dressed not like the guest of the year, but like an antediluvian. Dinner cowm have changed greatly In a elx-month. Bo much have they departed from the estate which they formerly wore, and the fashions they bore, that the gown of last March can hardly' bo worn this September. And, what is more, it will require a deal of ingenuity to rrake It euitahie. Yet. like everything else In dress, It ca n be done by the woman of taste. Take for example that turquoise blue eatin shirt waist, which was your pride last spring. It is faded now, ptrhaps, and it looks worn around the ntck. But never mind. Unfold it from the bureau drawer, where it lies in its t.ssue wrappings, and proceed witb scissors to give it the Eng hsh neck. The English neck, you must kr.ow, is rcund and just low enough to fall to the shoulders, but not over them. It dips a nitle in the front and a little in the back, but it does not fail at the shoulder line. Take this old satin waist and trim it with flowers cut from lace or with lace figures. You can cut them from renais sance, perhaps, if you are clever With, lace, or you can shear them from an old but much prized bit of duchesse. If you have some Italian lace in the house you can gret good figures out of it, and evei Irish lace can be fo cut and finished along the ed^es that it will do for an ap plique. Apply the figures to Che siik in such THE STJNDAY: CALIj. V- W AN EASY LESSON IN THE SCIENTIFIC GAME OF WHIST. •way that the surface is pretty well cov ered, sleeves and all. Allow the sleeves to remain half-lor.g, but cut them off be tween the elbow and the wrist. Lace tou m m U u P 4 h id b d a^ SS U tie C T dS e ' H S?' *l»™ f ™™ Ck ""^ bel ° W hiCh Wl " faU bH u i^, !ow n^ eet m a ruffle ' of gK SStTSfSSJ 00^,- 36^ 618 -, . ,. ». , •»„* , • c ? m P lete , 5'our English neck , . 5 yji waist w "l now be a dinner waist, rhe long sleeve is also an English etyie, one that is much beloved by the uucness of Marlborough. Jake the matter of the neck flounce, which is to be such an important one this season This flounce absolutely cfcanges any bodice. It comes in a nun cred diricrent forms and is made of countless materials. To own half a dozen r.tindsonae neck flounces is not an expen elve matter and for the woman who goes out,to dinner their possession la 'a thin* • the value of which" she. -cannot overes- Um . ate - "¦' : '-, i . • .£^t&lTn* 1^*??! n^nJ n t^ r ° &t A S J* il V n aS d^'lS? Ma£ P lea f ant substitute for any neck, be it , Modes of the Day. ... Nature may be ever, so admirable, but there are few who do not find the modes of the season even more becoming . than Nature herself, and the very, low neck, however entrancing it may be and how ever alluringly Jeweled, is rivaled by the new lace collar, with its wired stock and Its becoming little gems. , In the dinner eccentricities there mayy be noted the one that calls for Jewels/ that match the eyes. The "spots," be they blue, gray, green, brown or black, are matched by turquoise, moss agate. , emerald, Jade arid Jacinth, onyx, Wedg- .wood and the 'fire opal, which, somehow seems to accord with so many styles of 'beauty. The carrying out of this idea is s «™^ning . that is particularly .noticed... .h^'V'wX? 5g go^oi T e^ S£ be flowered I with prim Mttle bouqueT", and d^a^o^-%ff8K will be a niching of the same, and at the head of the flounce there will be an other ruchins. .. : . The Dolly Varden ' flounce is one that is more familiar to the country dress maker-than-to the city maker of gowns, for It is the same deep ruffle which has .always decorated the thin gown, with its pUm little heading and its llttls . ruf fle upon the lower edge. ' -, The Dolly Varden waist ia very plain and.is quite a. surplice In front. The de murely folded fronts, meeting at the bust, and the plain sleeves, falling away BY MBS. E. P. SCHEIX. WHIST players should take espe cial pains to avoid any lead or play which may tend to pro duce a false inference in part ner's mind. When second In hand It requires ex treme cautiousness to decide the extent to which one .should go. In covering hon ors without misleading partner as re gards one'* holdings. It would be quite difficult to adopt any set of' absolute rules to meet the different cases arising under the great number of systems one constantly meets with. Therefore it Is very important that - partner should be given air possible knowledge without the least chance of a negative inference. While H is best as a general rule to cover when holding an" imperfect four chette, as, for example, playing king on <iueen when holding the ten, it depends •oroewhat upbn | the opponent's known proclivities and the development which precedes the opportunity for euch play in deciding to what extent this, rule should be followed. With but one small "card, in; addition to 'that of ; two points lower in value than the honored, it ; is best to cover - the honor, but with i four or more of the suit originally there". is | at least one serious objection to. the play. When such a cover is made - partner" (holding the master. 1 card of the -suit) > draws at once the natural inference that second hand is short' in that suit Credit may be given for the fourchette holding, but as a general thing no dependence can be placed upon this possibility. • •.. ' - ¦ If partner happens to hold -four or more : cards of the suit this impression' Is strengthened, and although he may be. very strong In trumps he will hesitate to lead them, as to all appearances he will, be elmply exhausting, trumps for the ad versary's- benefit. In-^addition' there is this consideration to be borne in mind by r the second hand ¦ in . the case of .a queen lead: If the opening Is from the holding of a queen, knave and one low, : or queen, knave, nine and one or more, .the advan tage of a possible tenace over the leader is given up, If queen is covered. After . duly considering the losses and gains ex ; perts ! have arrived at the opinion that aside from ' covering when :,a. perfect fourchette is , held . (a ' correct play), -it .Is. not .best' to cover an : 1' honor with .an honor lower than ace from" a holding of" more than three cards, even though the fourchette Is with in •! one point of perfect, with this excep tion:"- When a supporting. ca!rd is led to the second adversary's declared strength a cover, from a greater length than three may be necessary to Insure -at least one trick in the suit. The question of covering may often be determined by the desira bility ,of the lead; also by the importance ;of temporary, retention of the honor as a re-entry card, or the saving of . an ace for partner,, by; covering, for example, queen with king. These and similar, objects to into the flowing sleeve, all show the marked peculiarities of the dress of the original Dolly Varden. The Folded Fronts. • In speaking of the surplice, one under stands .tha<. the precise and priestly front, with all its purity of outline, is not meant, but the surplice as it is now found,- since it has departed from = its original design. All waists that fold across the front are called surplice -waists, and even the-Puri tan, which is. made of folded taffeta,- com-- Ing across. the bust in avery noat arid pre cise manner, is. called by that name. Dinner -bodices that fold across the front in such a way as to curve down to an- open V at the belt line are seen. - : - ¦¦-] A Princess at Dinner. From "London are comings many pretty dinner robes.' A gown worn, by the Prin cess' Victoria' has 'a Corselet ;.front. -This is made entirely of an incrustationof Jew "els upon a foundation of white . silk. It fits the buat nicely and is very deep, com ing almost to the high -be^t- line. Four or • five large Jewels are set in the front, in pattern. The sleeves are immense affairs' of chif fon, rather crispy and, very full. They are . made over tight inner sleeves of chiffon and on one slumlder ¦ there are a dozen roses placed there so as to hold the Bleeve . in place. : ¦ ' ¦' ¦ 1 ' •> '". 'l^-'. - The bodice blouses. a little and the big, ¦ loose chiffon sleeves are caught cuffs of .azalea pink . velvet, while an pink belt finishes the gown. There 'are leng sash ends of azalea. . It Is certainly true that the Empire wo man will dine with us this season. Walsta, when they are not, very long indeed.' are gradually growing shorter. Particularly Is this true of the dinner waist, which 'seems to be gradually crawling up to the " place where the Empress of France wore ' hers.'!--' - ' -;-V .- {¦ - ¦'. - . j . ¦. ;.;;¦' \i be attained require deliberate thought be fore deciding one's play. -, As regards the general rules to govern the second hand's play It. may be said:;- Most -of them are formulated in accordance with results ob tained -by. long experience, xegulated by the laws of chance. Aside from this, they possess other' commendable qualities, which at first glance may not b«.appar ent. If followed; consistently, they will prove trick winners in the long run. : An . interesting hand, where the score was • even though played different at each table: : ¦ -„:."¦ 1 - - : /. --. ..• • -, , North. ; - , -¦ \ • ?: . v. H.-J, 9, B. X ''...-¦'¦ • ' C— -Q f 8, 10, 6. '"¦'¦ i - - - jj g , Jl , , " ; West ' '-,- Eaat S.-10,6,S. 7 B.-A, K. 9,1' V-t'* H.-K. 4. ' H.—Q, id, 6. i l]| C— 9, t. ....._ C— A. K, 7, 4. • D,— 9, 8, 7, 6, 8,1 D.— Q.'lO. , r V'/,.- -<- : . Ci- ¦ South. ;¦•; ': ,' -: ;'. "' ¦¦¦>- ¦; S.— Q, 5, 4.* ¦¦.:. '.-. 7 • ; . ' . ¦¦'' H.-A, 8, 7,. I. . : : .i'. . ¦ ¦¦'¦¦ C— J/3, 2. ¦•;¦ :-•¦•'..'¦; : ¦ : - :-.. .< T>.—K,'Z:,l.:': ' ;' Trumps) 3 of diamonds. . North leada. . ¦-"'¦ :." ; TABLE. No! L V \^' ; \." Tks.-N. ; '.'¦¦'¦'¦'¦¦-¦ "':. .¦'E.' :: ' : "-: , ; • 8. '-- - W. llr. 6o' . .... 4c :._ ' *Jo *"-:.• . Be .2. 5h' ..:".¦ 6h'.-;. -. - 8h *5. ;:. «Kh ¦.3.-10O -.• ::..«Kc' ; . ¦; '2c-.' ' ' ¦• - 9c 4-->4d ¦ •¦¦:• •'" Qd' V. . • v, *Ad . ¦ 3d 5. .-9h - . 10h.V : . -.-•Ah,;' 4h 6. Jh -¦¦¦ ; -;i -*Qh: '.- .-,7h ¦ ' -3s 7. . *Kd : ,•, lOd ". . ¦ - Jd'. ' 6d 8. ; , Qo -. > .' " *Ac- r * .:'3c' • : .-' 6s "¦: 9. : • 2s , - - - -i yj. *Ks ; .; ; '*-:¦' ¦, < 4s ' . ? .- ¦ 10s 10. -Js ' As "•• •."-¦¦; : ; "Bs ¦;.-. -' :«2d 11.' . 2h .. . ,., I 7o' .; ? :., ¦- ,Bd. :, /•' . . . »8d 12.. : 8o .:;.'," 7s 0- :. .-:.¦:; Qs -': '• , ' ." »9d 13.-< ,8s •;•*.. >¦''¦ 9s** ,:- : ;"; : >8h;:'^;..^:-' *7d , : Easf : and West 9, North "and Sputh 4. . Trick , 1— East's -.failure; to ; up with -But it^is"the--silk dinner gown which is to-be, the. particular -dress of . the winter. 'The " new.-.' silk's, have', been robbed j of their stiff stateliness and;are now; j\ist suited to the making of pretty-costumes. ." One of these dresses was; yer.y ; lovely in Its delicacy,, though it' was made" of corded silk, rather heavy: *" '- •""•.. . : The "skirt : was. pin - tucked front and back, while 'the Sides' were fitted Closely. - One of these'-dinne-r^dresses was a study In the sheer combinations of • the-season. Made 6T trahsparent.stuffs, it was white upOnthe outside, then. < there - camera 'lin ing, qf green, inside of which fell a lining of pink, while under all, was one of white again.- This --dinner. gown mirrored: forth many.-pretty shades'- and had a curiously changeable look. - •" ;¦• ¦•• '..-¦-. :•••" ; ¦ ¦ A dinner. gown worn by! Mrs. 'Peter Mar-" tin, the' spectacular ' yqurig '; hostess of Newport; was- lovely in* its.' color scheme.- Mrs.- Martin, who was Miss" Lily 'Oelrichs, and "whose, marriage, this summer was of .worid-wide. interest,- is '{well-V launched., in the society world as one of the foremost entertainers. -Her dinners are pronounced as finished as those.of the oldest matron of the 400, and- her manne"r ; arid her gowns are both .beyond reproach.';' 7" -• •'...-.. ... Late Newport Gowns. ' This very , ; short -waist, "while 'it 1 is * riot always becoming, is •very-^aptito ".be'ex tremely pretty, and if. properly ; fitted to a well gored skirt ' it- Is'one' of the. successes oi'tnL- oea-iod. . ¦ ¦ ¦ ,-¦••'•.' ¦>? -.¦:'=• -\ .- , - '¦;; ' .- ¦-. • " The Frtnch style of rEriipire isfcirt.is the" best pf all. /This : ' skirt;. is fitted to the short waist In a rie w' manner. In the mid dle of the- front.there' Tire 'laid ;many little side plaits, pointing/each 'way, .-.and.- the same: method of plaiting is carried' out in the middle qf the back. 'The -sides are fitted quite tightly and the long ' embroid ered skirt, falls straight to the floor, front and sides,- while the-back is cut. In a train. At a dinner given' by Mrs. Cornelius ..Vanderbilt there were present eight fash ionable women of society and in the gowns worn there were at least five that borrowed of the fashions of other days. So wide Is [the/variety in the dinner gown f that it may bea Josephine: It may be a Dolly Varden; it, may be a Louisine costume;-it may be a- : Du- Barry; It may savor of the Elizabethan days, or it may be' a modern dress .with" adaptations of the Vfctorian modes. All these are strict ly, conventional and; the> most conserva tive of dames can wear them without de parture from the fashions of the day. , ¦ It Is a fortunate thingi that one has such a wide choice 'of dinner gowns, for the. dinner table is . certainly much lm- • proved thereby. Where once the staidest of dresses were noted now there is a range which permits not only of a color display but which allows individual fancy to run riot and which brings into play some historical knowledge of dress. ¦ The tendency toward the 'costume din ner, gown is more and more pronounced. The woman who has half a dozen dinner gowr.s will be sure to own at least one which, shall look almost as though it were a fancy dress. .'¦ . , - j The-, bodice; which .was made on the shirt waist variety, had a low neck with pointed reyers of Persian stuff and square collar, bf -same.' - ' -». ¦•¦. .-. • ..\ ¦ The-' sleeves, which were very -full, lhad cuffs of the Persian embroidery., A slit at the side of the sleeve had a big chiffon puff pulled through it and the vest of the bodice was in chiffon. The neck was cut away from the throat, but was not ex tremely decollete. %. • . Costume Dinner' Gowns. Around the foot of the skirt there was a deep fiour.ee with pin tucks at the top. Around the bottom -of the 'flounce was a band -of Persian embroidery and another band' headed -the- flounce. :<¦ •.. .! Trick 8-rrEas.t's best play here la to allow his 'partner .'to ruff the ' club and come through with spades,' so as to give him the finesse. The hearts' stand a bet ter show If led up to.- Trick 3— By the return \of the jack South draws a re-entry from East and establishes the suit. with North., Trick 5— Forcing West cannot be of any avail, for he is evidently very long in trumps. North might better have opened the heart suit. 4. *K& 10d Jd 8d B. Qc 4o .;.:•' 8o *2d «• 2h; 6h .-¦¦ • 5d »9d 7. Js »Ks Es -103 8. 5h Qh «Ah 4h A- 2 h /ii-" loh^f:." 8h *Kh ??" tI • 99 m( ** fa 11. Jh,. . 7c, ,7h ." ;:'.7d: 12. 8s . *As 4s 33 12. 10c. . .73:7 j 3h - »Sd East and West 9. North and South 4. Trick 1— Unlike East at the other table, the player at No. 2 covers and his partner commences a call, * the completion of which the former anticipates; in fact, his hand would almost Justify him irv taking the initiative. . . - : In new dinner dresses one notices mors than ever the tendency to make the skirt very long.", . " . ' The wrinkled chiffon sleeve is always good, and it has the advantage of making the thin arm appear large,- and what this is to the woman, with thin arms only she can tell. . -, , -.- Inside there Is a full sleeve of embroid ered and spangled tulle, terminating with thf^ dearest little pink velvet cuff, no wider than half an inch. A sleeve which is decidedly of the ISM order is charming as a dinner sleeve. It is made of eatin and is very . large and very loose. It Is extremely wide around the wrist, being almost like the pagoda B'.eeve. It is finished with bands of silver passementerie and Is called the Victorian coat sleeve. - - . In the gowns of the Duchess th«r» are very few that are Jewel trimmed. A Parla modiste who made many of the dresaea for her Grace to bring, to America la re sponsible for the statement that of all the American women for whom she has ca tered this season none was as simple In her tastes as the Duchess Consueldw Another dinner bodice is In. green with touches of black and gold and a little em broidery In white. ' A very pretty dinner bodice worn by the Duchess of Marlboroufh has sleeve* of silvered chiffon : tucked all the way down to the wrist. Below the shoulders there were three crisp chiffon ruffles. The sleeva was trimmed with little bow knot3 of black velvet ribbon and In tho middle of each bow knot there was a button of silver. A ruffle of lace fin ished the wrist. The neck of this |«wn was cut quite low and was finished with lace, bow knots of black velvet and little silver buttons. •' ¦ . «;•.: . ¦ The Marlbor^g^h. Sleeve. In th« dinner fmndeather* Is nothing more noticeable than that which, call* for the trimmed sleeve. Sleeves ar« so numerous and so varied that women can not bear to part with them and they arc Been upon evening dresses even where tho evening gown Is cut very low in th» neck. And this clinging to tho sleeve la not to be wondered. at, for the sleeves »t th« day are. so very pretty. They ar« mad* of every variety of material and they are fashioned so delicately that on* can hard ly afford to slight them. The woman who cuts off her sleeves deprive* herself of great possibilities In the way of personal decoration. She takes away the fllminesa which might be hers; and she losea the chance to bring out- her txxJlc* aa It should be brought out. the king at .-this' -trick 'is '.difficult to Tin-i derstand, especially in. view of his weak ness , in trumps. .The deal .was opened with the same card at both tables. • - Trick 2^South' probably Infers that the • major tenace is to his right, and so pre-" fers opening an indifferent suit to return ing the club.'-- .V ,.. Trick 4— West's cover at trick two would indicate trump strength and hfs return of what is "evidently his-last club a: desire to ruff. "With, his all around strength." East makes the safest play per haps. . • .--.-¦-.'..-.- -..- L , ,-..,- Trick 6— West can place the queen with* his partner North, had he held it, would have-returned.it. - . - Trick 7— From this point It is impossi ble for Northland South to take a trick. '; TABLE; NO., 2.: "V T*"- 1 *- *?• 1 S- * W. L. 6s ; *Kc . .; 2c -¦" 9c 2. »*¦ 4d ¦ ¦ - od ¦ ¦ . • a A ¦ - fi/^ 3., 8c. •Ac' ; Jc 5c 7 DINING IN COSTUME WILL BE THE FAD.