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..This suit Is in "three parts, one part be
ing'a lace blouse with very full front and
long; sleeves. •
VOver thijs -the boy wears a white flan
nel; dinner coat, cut of? after the fashion
of aiTuxedo andvbuttonedatvtbe throat,
but lying; open .tha/rest of > the way. The
neck' ia< trimmed -with, a 'deep lace collar
.-Queen- Amelie is said- to have been the
originator of a dress- suit for boys which
•fs-naw' considered 'the correct thing for
•boys to wear at dinner. It can be made
of. white cashmere and it is to be worn
by beys from 5. to 12, boys who are too
big/for kilts and are not yet in long trou
sers. *,• ,. i .\ •'.
The future King of Portugal dresses
mostly in white. -He owns . some very
swell white silk suits, in knickers and
blouse design, and his school suits are in
wash silk; navy blue and white for sum
mer, and light cloth for winter.
A woman who studied the fashions of
young people is the beautiful Queen-Ame
lie of Portugal. This lovely woman takes
all the . fashion journals in the country
and reads ;the fashion columns of the
newspapers. She has two boys^to dresa
and that .they ¦ are the most stylish .in
Europe is her special pride.
Queen Amelie's Children;
are now. made unllned and fall dresses
will..*-:tub just the same . as summer
Many of the best modistes in London, in
Paris and in New York for that matter,
now instruct their patrons In the art or
laundering the gowns for children's wear,
and if there is a secret of white lead to
set the" color, • and lukewarm water, of
soap bark, and gasoline for the deepest
spots, they will disclose it to those who
ask." ¦"* . . ••»:.. - -
The Flra* Lady's Gottojl 'j
Tha skirt of the gown -was trimmed
with stltch*d bands of navy blu* satin.
It was an unllned skirt and was worn
over a black silk drop skirt. Th* shirt
waist was a white linen, made very ¦mart
witn embroidered dots in light blua, as big
as dimes, and scattered all over the waist.
The hat was a navy blue rough atraw,
turned up at each side and the back,
where a. bow of j blue natin ribbon com
pleted It. Streamers of satin ribbon were
knotted in a long knot at the back of th*
hat and then allowed to fly free to below
the waist. - ' •>.
A. yachting suit worri by the wife of the
President^ who plans her sea suits so that
they will do ; on land also, was in black
ladies' cloth, very dressy.- The skirt was
very becomingly, banded with black taf
feta, put on as a' strapping to th© seams.
There were many gores with the taffeta
strapping, each in such a way that I tha
bands of silk extended from the belt down
to the very flounce.
There' was a wide skirt flounce which
widened In the back and was hemmed
with taffetau This style, strictry conven
tional and not at all ultra, was carried out
in * he coat, which was a' Russian blouse,
with the bag deep and full in front. They
were strappings of taffeta and there were
taffeta, lapels put on as flat stitched
pieces. * - ¦
A shirt of red and blue checked silk .en
livened this black suit. And underneath
the black skirt fell a checked petticoat
of the same pattern as the shirt waist.
The hat was .a black one. , trimmed with
red end blue checked cloth.
The first lady. far. from being an over
dressed woman. Is very - modest In ber
wardrobe and it Is to be doubted If tnere
Is in all "Washington an official woman
who has fewer new gowns or who'wearr
them longer They are very well made
of dark colors and built for wear. Fox
evening Mrs.- Roosevelt wears white near«
ly always and of white dresses she has %
: The small hat for a child's wear will b«
an article hard to find, for all of Dams
Fashion's ? tendencies are toward the
spread hat. - But such a variety of haU
dees she provided .
- There fs the Chinese hat with its flat
top, to bo put on perfectly level as to tha
head. -This- hat has streamers and a llttl*
flat trimming. Then there is the Egyptian
hat, -with its queer top and. its scant
trimming of ribboni >' ,
- The Turkish fez is a. hat? to b« w6rn by
' both boys 'and girls* and this Is a small
''¦'hat, but t beyon3 this, there J» hardly a lit
tle hat to be found. V '¦ v
The Turkish fez la 'in great favor in th»
Roosevelt' family, and- ¦ Master Kennit
"owns one In Chinese .red- that la his prime
Joy. 'Archibald 'occasionally wears a fex.
and so does Miss Ethel. A red sash or a
black sash or ' a white on*,' according 1 to
the 'color of the fes, finishes up'th* cos
tume, which is often a very plain on* and
usually tome thing that hma »««a th« hard
ships of many wasbinsa. < h
The Roosevelt children ar« not mirrors
of fashion by any means. The? drvsa
with great plainness, though. th*ir moth
er's taste in colors is that ti«r b* v»ry
Mrs. Roosevelt herself wears brown
generally, and a little* Jacket suit is about
her style. Bho wears a blas«r or brown
serge and a close fitting* brown skirt taea*
days, with a white shirt waist trimmed
with bands of needlework' running us and
A suit worn by Mrs. Roo««r»It «a th«
Mayflower when it lay off Massscnastts
last month waa a oavy biu* diagonal
cloth, rather heavy, for th* day wu oold
and it was raining. Th* coat was out la
blazer shape with a littl* frill around t&*
waist. It was .caught at th* brmst under
a very smart bow of navy blu* satin rib
bon. . •'..¦--
little. Roosevelt -Hata.
cut-out patterns are small, but In good
taste. The newest shoes for boys ara
shaped in the sole, similar to those of
the grown up man, and enamel, which
requires some care, is now made in boys*
shoes, as well as the new tan shoes that
•»re to be worn all winter.
I The square, clodhopper shoe, the shape
less mitten, the hat that did not fit the
head and the impossible trousers have all
been replaced by the most modern of
everything for the boys' wear.
Nor are the new articles more costly
than the old anes. But they are built
upon more modern ideas and the boy de
rives the benefit Some of the -new arti
cles for young people's wear, make one
long to be young again just for the hap
piness of new clothes. .
JIats for little girls are to be large and
trimmed with, winter : flowers.: Big flat
felts, ; caught up here or there, or left
flappy in the brim., are massed on top
with ¦ wintergreen leaves. • gray and red,
showing a wide range af color.
The making of winter straws is also one
of the novelties. Straw hats that will en
dure the weather, hats of tan-colored
moss .and . hats of heavy rough satin
straw are now made with quill and feath
er trimmings that will stand a snowstorm
and look nonethfe worse. Take the most
hat, wet It and shake it out and you will
have a hat as good as new.
The Gowns and Kilts They
Wear and the Way They Are *
Hatted so as to Be Present
able to th« Fashionable World.
As Sailors and as Knights
Dress They, While the Little
Girls in Picture Clothes Are''
Fit to Grace a Playground or
an Afternoon Tea — What Miss
Marjorie Gould Wears and the
Idttle Dresses of Victoria of
Germany and. Others of High .^
j^gxee—Krs. Roosevelt's New
Dresses for Land and Sea-
THERE Is on© difference between
the gowns of the littl© girl of, the '
golden cpocn *nd those of , her.
small neighbor of moderate means.-,
The former has her dresses built
separately and Individually and .about
each one there is some distinguishing fea
ture, aom« decided character, while the
'woman of average ambitions has no time
for designing dresses. ¦
"With the ordinary run of child's cloth
ing aU the little dresses might Just as
well be made off one piece of goods. Ex
cept for a difference In the color, perhaps,
a slight difference in material, all the
dresses are alike. There Is no great dis
tinction between them. .V
Over In London, where they are begin
ning to do things in a great way, there
are now dress designing establishments
•where all day long there sits an artist
whose one and sole duty It is to get up
plans for the gowns of little folk.
His instructions axe to make the dresses
pretty and as varied as possible, but not
at all expensive. He can run through all
the chromatic color scale and he can use.
every texture under the sun. But he
must not select- a etyle which calls for
materials thaf are out of 'proportion to
This dress artist studies the costume*
of ye good old days and he brings forth
come very neat little designs from the
Elizabethan era. He has 'good Watteaus -
end he has adapted the Gainsborough to
the small needs of his little clientele.
In the matter of making over the sai
ler suit so that it is just the thing for
THE SUNDAY CALTi.
both boys and girls he is an expert There
* r-re sent to her Royal Highness, the
Duchees of Fife, six sailor suits for hei
tvo little daughters, Alexandra and
Maude, all different In cut and all of dlf
Sailor brown Is as serviceable as sailor
blue and navy blue is a standby. Rus
sian red makes a fine sailor suit and
French red. while a little brilliant. Is good
as a trimming. Even Turkey red can be
used upon children's clothing with cheer
ful effect, and as for military and Chi
nese reds, bright as they are, they make
rood bands and belts and excellent cord-
Inps and pipings.
It is a very noticeable feature about
the gowns that are made for the children
of great wealth that they will wash, par
ty gowns and all.
There is something in the up-to-date
air which calls for the hygienic' treat
ment of a child's gown; and, after the
littie grir 1 has scrubbed about upon the
piazza, played upon the floor, crouched
upon the sidewalk and indulged in a roll
upon the gravel, her dress should be
washed, be it black or white, be it silk or
flannel. And the best, the most service
able and the newest gowns for children
are made in this way.
Kow, there was a time when a child's
play dress looked Its name.- It « was,' a
rough and tumble and it looked it Plain,
straight and even ugly, the child .felt,
and rightly, that when . dressed in it;sbe :
was in uniform. Often in a striped "gthg-.
ham she might as well have bee.n in pris
on dress as far as her Own feelings were
concerned. , j .
At- the first note of "company" . away
she flew to take off the play garb. "Then,
into a stiff company dress she was but
toned to be thoroughly uncomfortable ' for
Marjorie Gould's Dresses.
Now the object of the recent improve
ments In children's clothing is to furnish
a child with a garment in which" it can
indulge in reasonable sports and still look
Drettv. Even the Dlay ". dresses are not
outlandish* and the cheapest jof every-day
suits are . dalnUty pretty ; In ; style. ". Old
pictures are copied with this idea In mind.
One pi, these dresses, built' tor Miss Mar-'
jorie" Gpuid,- daughter of r^Mrs. *' George
Gouldv' Illustrates this welli- .The chlid, a
girl of ir,,is'active ahd fond of.. play: Her
newest play * suit, 'which Is also j a school
room suit, has a.' skirt of -turquoise col
ored flannel of smooth texture. 'It comes.
just-,below.,-herkneesr ''¦¦ ¦¦ • , •¦ ¦ . '., ]¦.. , . :
The skirt is what ; is ; known as a'- round
skirt, but it Is not so ridiculously full as
"round" skirts . are generally, made. . Its
front hangs quite, plain and' it ; is almost
6nug upon the hips, while the back is a
very-Uttle bitfuller. ' '' '
There is a waist with this skirt, cut In
Oxford shape." With' three narrow olaits
In : front The back has also three plaits.
Thls^ls lined, ¦ for It i is to be worn as a
fall "suit, i A little turnover, collar finishes
tje neck, and- the cuffs7are"of the turn
back, variety., . ,.---. '. ¦/_'¦. ':.' ' -\>
When '¦: Miss ; Marjori« :¦ Is j . very much
dressed up she wears a wide black velvet
belt with this turquoise- flannel dress, the
belt fastened: with a deep silver buckle in
the middle, of the back. 'Connecting with
the belt are two narrow, bands of sable
that go. over the shoulders and strap the
waist -In 'Panel, f ashion. • front and : back.
The whole— belt, and sable bands — can bo
taken off. > /' ¦' -"•'-...' ;¦-¦¦¦¦'¦;¦;¦.«>¦¦¦¦,•..
A very pretty," hat belonging" to- this
young ! woman is a' wlfle gray felt "caught
up at 'one side with a chou of black satin
ribbon. ."On: top /the wide ribbon -with a
little heavy lace/ falling over it trims the
hat.' ,¦ . . ¦. ¦: : '¦¦ I--.-- :..¦¦ ¦ ¦ '•-- ' : y, '•; ';.
The, Dlaln skirted pattern Is a very nice
one fi/. -.... .e girls, but the" skirt must be.
not- too full if it is to accord with "the"
present fashion, and mosuof tne fullness ;.
must be in the back. . : / :"--fv,-C' -
'* frhe Picture Child;: ': -7 .1
There is the greatest amount of striving
for picture effects in the clothing that is
now made for children to wear. Each lit- ,
tin garment, be it for the 1 boy of the "fam-V
Ily or the girl, seems to have what may
be called a motif back of it. There is a
special ' design , upon which, and ..after
which ' is suit ' is' constructed. This de
aignjsby no means a fantastic one, but •
Is. one that while very pretty is also very
Wash cashmere, wash flannel, washable
serge and light cloth that has been
shrunken and. will tub are the ¦ favorites :
among the heavy materials. • . . :
But there is more and more of a ten-'
<?ency to keep a child in the heavy cotton :-;
cheviots and in the thick madras cottons, -
all wash goods, as late as possible and tor
make the body comfortable by the addf- •'
tion of coat or cloak as tho winds begin ¦
to blow:. ' >v • I ¦ ;
. As' a-matter :of - fact, houses are well
heated in winter and a child is almost
; warm enough in its summer wear. Many;
women do not now put. their children into .
heavy flannels, but make up for -the lack
of them by long cloaks for street wear. :, ¦
- The little girl's automobile and the
boy's Kitchener coat. will keep. boy or girl
.warm on. the, stormiest. days,- and that is.
.why you see -.so many light- dresses
shown for children just when you would
look for .the heaviest of wear. The un
iined dress; . too, vis the -rule, v
No^more sensibly dressed child 'lives in '
Europe than the: little Princess Victoria
of Germany.' This child, now. 10 years old, .
has' her dresses made for her '.in '.London'-,
,and Paris arid -shipped to he» by a- special.:
•iressenger, so ; it is' said;; And- thei dressj
-makers whisper that carte- 'blanche- orders '
to rnake the dresses' pretty, and numeroui *
an? 1 given from . the Kaiser, whose one '
daughter is his, pride. , : • uj - • ¦
: . .¦•'.'¦>', A Boyal Child's;;Gowns.
.' The' little Victoria wears, a special-kind'
': of sailor collar which ¦- has been : named .'
.' after her -and" . is : called, the •
Bailor. It can be made out of any kind of
goads, thick or thin, and it looks well in
arty color. ; It affords a fine exampje of
the pretty and the .sensible in y a child's
dress. .'¦/ ' ¦¦ '" ""¦;/.¦;¦. ¦¦ .V- > . •.;:.¦-. \.':* -'
It 13 pretty because of its trimming 'and,
its shape, and sensible- because it. is dark;
at the nepk and throat, where 4 the child's"
active, chin,. rubs against it, and* dark,
where her curia lie upon it. i .. :''-.-'> ". '
. : The newest example of this collar,- is in
willow green v and white. ¦ * A wj.de white
cashmere Bailor coIIt-.:-" covering \ '¦ the
shoulders, with> a" point/ cpming'-at each
shoulder, is the ¦¦¦, foundation part;x Over
•'-• this falls a 'collar of willow green cash;
irere.-the samephape, "out not as" Qeep.
"This is trimmed with five bands- of white
¦/braid.' 1 . "- - : ¦ ¦¦•¦", " ' y^' ¦ •'.'- - : - • ''¦• i ;X t 7Hi
i Inside of this ia-worn a, chemisette with
standing collar of .willow green cashmere
trimmed with five t bands of white braid.'
i I To^make'thevlittle, girl very happy a
i small diagonal .pocket can.be set in the
I blouse" and \ out -. of this can peep a very
i fine lawn ''pocket-handkerchief made, in
the same colors as the collar. . .
i / sThere v is nothing about this dress that
: * will prevent the processes of the ; laundry
.from .being performed upon it.' The. trouble
with the washing process,- when applied
i to win.ter dresses :is that the linings
shrink while the outside' holds its shape.
To obviate this, ail dresses for children
and tne'cutis.aie tit turned back lace. The
•lace. -frills* of „ the blouse * fall -» over the
hands. -.,: ... -. 5 . ¦- ,-\ .,, ,
VrThe trousesrs 'of this new and very fash
ionably" suit,- for boys are not gathered at
the-lyiee -in bloomer style, but are cutoff
short just -b'elbw -the bend of the knee. In
.Knickerbocker fashion.- At the hips they
are^yery j full. - ¦" .- v . ¦
¦'« T.h'e full hip cut; as now. seen In boys',
suits,- is the style which the younger so
ciety* men 1 ;' attempted to bring In some
'time ago, but Wfclch did not catch on suf
ficiently to Insure. its /success. ',-;
, , , Sh.oes; f or' : Hquse "Wear.
'? For boys to wear in the house ther© ara
many house- slippers, pumps and ties. The
. low-cut colonial with Its buckle is very
becoming to thefoQt, and the dull finish
suede, .is liked* by the boy. : The patent
leather is too "dressy a shoe for every
day. wear, but Just the shoe for dancing 1
¦and dull, kid or- morocco is much better
form for afternoon. v ..-• -¦¦' , '
" Slippers are universally worn by the
boy at home. , The very heavy shoe which
is now in style for the street is almost
¦ Impossible for, house wear, with its ex
tension sole and its broad toe. .
-.". Boys' ' shoes resemble those built for
men so closely that the boy cannot tell
his own shoes from those of his father
.The decorated toe is in -favor and th«
goodly number. C *•. " '
Mrs. Roosevelt's "White* Dresses.
One of Mrs. Roosevelt's newest whit*
dresses has a wal3t mace- 6n the shirt
waist order. It Is In a sflky lawn, which
closely resembles, from a distance, china
silk, but which really sets better, bein£
less "slinky" to the figure- and china silk
certainly has no backbone. •¦" "
The waist is as tight fitting as the new
shirt waist patterns will permit, and at a
point between the bust and the stock it is
cut off. That; is the only way to de3criba
the way the whole ' neck of the gown is
chopped out, leaving great irregular scal
A stock of lace, tall and wired, with a
deep lace collar attached to it, is now set
In the neck of the shirt waist and ap
pllqued in place. The waist fastens, col
lar, stock and all, down the back. You
can experiment " with setting in a lace
neck after the • fashion of- the gown of
the first lady if you feel inclined.
The skirt is side plaited. It is in the
silk lawn, white and looking more than
ever like china silk. - The side plaits ar©
stitched so that you mignt as well call
them tucks. They are released eighteen
Inches from the floor and a band of lac©
insertion to match the neck is set in.
"The first lady, being slender, is partial
to sashes, and often wears a wide whit©
silk one with fringed ends. -, -
LITTLE MAIDS AND MEN
OF ROYALTY AND