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THE pretty girl no longer waves her
hand at you: she waves her boa!
If she had been the Nancy L«e of
the song fh« would have 6tood and
w.aved her boa across the sea, in-
Btead of her poetic hand. For the boa Is
now the mark of the pretty girl, and you
do not catch her out without It
And so many styles of boa there bet
To begin with, there is the conventional
boa, which is not a boa at all, but a col
larette. If it had lived in other days It
would have been called by a very old
fashioned name, but now it comes out.
bioad and heavy, long and expensive, and
it is known as a fur collar, a fur boa, a
choulder cape and a cape with stoles.
The boa In this form costs something
like 5200 If you want to pay that much for
It. It is made of sable and Is as deep as
the shoulder. It lies flat, for they do not
eo much affect the Medici collar these
days; and it Is very wide and so long
that it almost touches the 6treet.
In the newest of these the cape Is Flit
njon the shoulders to form two strips,
end between these there is set in a wide
band of embroidery. This may be an inch
¦wide, or four Inches, as you please. It is
carried oat in Oriental designs and Is
x rally very decorative.
A fur collar of this kind really takes
th* place of a cost, for woman does not
dress as warmly »» she once did.
The Warm Shoulder Cape.
There was a time— surely you can r»-
By Augusta Prescott.
What Mies Neilson and Her
Sought While Abroad — Dainty
and Delicate New Ways to
Treat the Ancient and Honor-'
able Boa — The Countess de
Casteilane in the lively Bed
Which the Count Admires—
Mrs. George Gould's Tailored
Dress — The Hew Gowns of
Those Who Have the Latest
Cry in the World of Fashion-
Gowns of Mrs. Mark Hanna
and Alice Boosevelt
member hearing teTl of It— when lovely
¦woman wore leggings, and when she put
on a little cape or thawl under her winter
coat. Her hands were incased in woolen
gloves, which were put on outside her. kid
gloves, and around her shoulders there
was a cape that had a collar which hid
her ears. Thus protected she added a veil
and went forth into the blasts of Janu
Now she leaves off everything along the
accessory line except the coat and the fur
collar, and often she dors not wear the
coat. The veil if worn Is only for prettl
ness. It Is not to shelter her In the least.
This imperviousness to cold is one of
the results of the physical culture fad
which has swept over the country, and
woman finds that as her blood tingles
more briskly she needs less covering.
The very long, wide shoulder cape pro
tects the lungs fore and aft, and to keep
it from being too heavy, as well as to
make It prettier, an Oriental piece Is set
in along the shoulder line.
This conventional boa Is flat and Is lined
and the latest cry Is that the under side
shall be appllqutd. For this they take a
white satin lining and apply to It the
most exquisite Oriental embroideries. Or
they handwork it In roses and vines. Oc
casionally you mem an under side lined
with narrow ruchlngs and chiffon, which
is very good for the purpose, as It sup
plies a becoming padding to the shoul
To make a shirred chiffon lining you
take the chiffon and line It with very
thin taffeta or with China silk. You then
put in the shlnings, placing them about
half an Inch apart. The short strings are
all drawn up at once and the result Is a
very pretty shirred under surface. This
Is used as a lining material. It Is in
vogue for linings of fur coats, for opera
cape linings and for fur collars and all
other nice garments.
Making: a 1003 Boa.
To make an up to date boa out of an old
one, if it be a fur affair you can line it
with taffeta, even thougn it' be round.
Press It as flat as possible and line It. To
make it wider and flatter you can border
it with brocade, putting a strip of bro
cade at each side. Now, as a finishing
touch, you can place bunches of tails
upon the ends of the boa, so that, they
almost touch the ground, and you can
place a bunch half way up. Just along the
bust line. This will give you something
handsome and warm enough for a me
dium cold day.
But the* actual Innovations come In
•A new style blouse worn by Miss Allc*
Itoosevelt is mads of blue cloth to match,
a blue skirt, it Is trimmed with narrow
bands of braid brought from the sM»
reams forward toward the front. There
Is a deep shoulder cap«. trimmed with
braid.' The sleeves arc full balloon, with
braided cuffs and with braid on the bal
loons. . ¦ '.
Another "Washington gtrl Is wearlnc a
blouse suit trimmed with brown braid, a
very few brown Uftsel* finishing each
band of the braid.
Around her neck this youog woman,
who Is a daughter of wealth, wears a.
flat fur collarette with stole ends; and
down through the fur the ro 1 i an appli
cation of lace flowers underlaid with silk,
the whole pressed down into the fur and
sewed with many stitches that keep It
Many of the tailored gowns ar» treated
with a simplicity whlcn borders on abso
lute plainness. On* of these Is a black
cloth trimmed with a narrow band of red
velvet around th» collar and ther* is a
trifling band of the red velvet around th*
cun>. Beside this ther* is a trimming of
routacbe braid. ,.'..'
The latest Parisian mods of applying
narrow braid is very lnterestlnr. And not
only does It attract the attention of th«
modiste, but It fascinates the home dress
maker, who sees In It » enancs of savin*
labor. The soutache Is put on with ma*
chine stitching 1 . The braid is applied ta
the goods and Is stitched In place by ma
chine stitching, which Is put through th»
middle of it.
How to Us* Braid. -
Whit; braid Is stitched on with black
silk and black braid la put on with whit*
silk. Dark blue braid is applied with
light blue thread and the red braids ars
treated to white stitching. The stitching
is put in on the right a!d» and the threads
are as Ion? and as visible as possible.
This has the effect of narrow stripes.
This is a very slmpl? matter for th«
home dressmaker and she win be glad to
know that Mme. La. Mode> la trimmlnc
her best tailored gowns in that way. -
Then there is another hint for the horn*
dressmakers, but this one Is along the
line of. f rinses. Fringe is taken and mad*
to formal hip yoke. It Is as deep as'pos
slbls and tho top Is, of cour.se, knotted
and mad* into a deep heading.
More new modes there are. of coots*.
but surely no woman can expect to make
more than one gown at once, for not evt^
Rome. was. bnllt la a flay.
shouMerette. There are three capes, the
third one extending over the shoulder,
the topmost one no more than six Inches,
wide. The upper edge of the cape is made
of heavy black satin ribbon, with narrow
white ribbon applied to 'the black, and
double -bands of the same extend down
the front. This little garment can be
worn with any gown.
Then there Is another shoulder cape,
which would be round were It not cut
Into big points In the front with the
points extending down to tho waist, al
As the New Tear dawns woman Is tend
ing^'toward the graceful. She wants to
be clinging, and, while there Is no indi
cation that she Is going to wear the tie
back, still the tightly fitting skirts do
certainly remind one of the days when
every woman had to mince along, for
she could not take a lung step.
The new skirts, as you. first see them,
were you to go through every fashionable
emporium In town, would display them
selves In one of various forms.
The most popular of the street skirts Is
the one that is now being worn by Mrs.
George Gould. It is a black cloth, cut
with slot scams. The seams are released
about eighteen Inches from the floor,
with the result that the skirt flares quite
suddenly and makes a fullness around the
foot. The fullness Is relieved from flap
piness by the stiff, very elegant silk lin
ing, which costs, no doubt, as much as
the skirt. - . ¦¦ v-
It Is not going to matter what you pay
for your gown, so long as you get the
new styles. There come the prettiest pos
sible dresses, that bear close | Inspection
very nicely, yet that cost very little.. ;;
It is more In the way you select the
colors, more in the manner you select the
goods, more In the way you make them
up and more in the cleverness with which
you make the style conform to your own
style than any thins: else.
Your Form for 1903.
Corsets are changing just a trifle, but
the straight front which all the good cor
sets boast now, will -continue In vogue.
The hips are Inclined to be a trifle full.
The Idea of tho straight back Is also
prevalent, and it looks as though there
were ¦ no place . for the woman with . too
The new corsets giro ons a delightfully
slender look, and,, they are also well
adapted to the blouses which are in style.
The blouse Is more to be seen than ever,
and the. newest ones are treated to an
aaaaring amount ©tlriminini.
along the lines of the stlVSna 1 muslin af
tairs. These get bigger and bigger until
you have an armful when you attempt to
carry one. In describing these it would be
difficult to give ¦ half the materials that
are employed. There are fringes used In
great varieties, and one of the recent ones
was entirely made, of taffeta, bordered
along each edge with a long, many-col
ored, *>!Iky fringe.
The Countess de Castellane has many
new things prepared for her far In ad
vance of the season's modes and some of
these look almost grotesque as new fash
ions Invariably do.
One shows a neck ruffle of black taffeta
with a border of white taffeta ruchlng
along each edge. The ruchlng Is edged
with chenille and from every Inch of the
chenille hangs a little bunch of' tassels.
This is thrown around the neck over a fur
CDat, making the shoulders of her rather
bhort ladyship a. little bit too chunky.
But what of that, when the neck ruffle is
The short affairs are very wide and
they are built with an eye to color and to
the combination of many materials.
The Countess wears one that Is In her
favorite color, navy blue, and she looks
very pretty In it. It is very full and Is
touched with white, which Is In the form
of little dots of white panne velvet fas
tened on the ellk muslin.
A Countess in. Cardinal Colors.
The favorite color of the Count Is cardi
nal, and the Countess wears it In Its most
brilliant form when she goes out In the
evening. One of these gowns shows a
trimming of the most remarkable flowers,
large and red and standing out from the
gown in all their creepy luster.v The cen
ter ef the flowers is black and (that Is the
only relief to the skirt.
One of the fads of the Countess is the
wearing of a waist that differs' from the
skirt, giving an almost' shirt waist effect.
The raindrop materials, showing drops of
color upon a white groundwork, are often
chosen by her. ..
The raindrop goods do not go out of
style, and one recognizes In them the old
American polka dot, under a. nice new
When one considers that' the gowns of
the Countess de | Castellane reflect the
very latest French" modes? for they were
all specially designed . for . her by Paris
couturleres, then r one ; realizes i that) here,
indeed, are the coming styles. / For Paris
does lead the" world' in/-' many respects,
though not in all, and it Is nice to know
that American fashions are rapidly com
ing to the fore. __• __
American fashions are worn abrcad In
the matter of shoes, in collars and In
shirt waists.- But when it comes to hat?,
to fancy, sleeves and to the latest cut of
skirt, one looks toward Paris as a matter
of habit, and also" for bows and'furbe
lows. But in the last Vienna must not be
,But in this respect, there is a piece of
news to be told which says that the Paris
designers are studying In Xew York, and
many of the "real Paris styles" are sent
from New York to Paris, later to reap
pear as genuine Parisian modes.
New Neck Ruffles.
In the neck ruffle line there must b*
mentioned that old yet now very new
neck trimming, the ostrich feather boa.
This comes this year very long indeed,
and Instead of being tied under the chin,
It Is taken and fastened with 'a wide blue
enameled pin. which is as elejrant as the
purse can afford. The pin can be in white
or -In gold, or in the new, green stones
which are coming out now under many
'and many a name. Upon the pin the ele
-fcance of many a boa depends.
--There Is a fancy for getting a wide gun
metal clasp, which comes together in the
front in such a manner that. Instead of
making, the boa meet. It leaves an open
space, and here are seen some precious
stones or their imitation. >*ot very sooth
ing to the throat, Is this style, but very
' delicious to one's sense of" beauty, even
though it Invite pneumonia.
When buying your length of boa try to
afford enough, If It be a feathery concep
tion, to twine around your hat; for they
are taking pieces of boa and making them
serve as ostrich feathers. There Is very
little difference In the looks, but a great
dtal of difference In the price. And you
can get It In all colors.
There .Is a member of the 400 who Is
beautiful, but has not as much money as
the others. Not long ago she appeared
at the grand opera fully hatted. Around
i her neck there, was a turquoise blue os
trlch feather boa and around her hat
there was a wide trimming of the same.
It was a very wide hat. something on the
Gainsborough order; though flat on top;
and the feathers edged it charmingly,
looking for all the world as though a ro
mantic feather floated from behind. It
was only an eighth of a yard of feather
trimming, but as pretty as an $18 feather.
-Try the experiment and* bo thankful that
> on \ have; discovered . a very \nice'make
si, if t. It" will -save? you. a dollar; or. two.
If you have In the family a fur. boa of
the ancient and honorable order of boas
of the long ago there Is a chance for you
A young woman who is- visiting Mrs.
Hanna. wears jfc triple^ "fcouldex. care. o«
Mrs. Mark Hanna wears a shoulder
cape which Is not- a cape at. all, for It
does not fly free from the garment, but
is attached. It is a little more than shoul
der deep and might b« one of .very,
deep yokes.** It Is ' made 'of brocaded' slUc
with a little f lace applied • to ¦ the brocade
and tho lower, edge i is trimmed with threa
narrow rows of black satin ribbon which
are covered with fagot stitching. »-*¦•• —
Mrs. Mark Hanna'ft Capo.
Miss Neilson has another boa brqught
for her from the steppes of the land of
the Persian lamb. It is made from, the
baby lamb and it la trimmed with tiny
ruchlngs of chiffon put on in bands across
the fur, about six Inches apart.
On the threshold of the New Tear on*
sees many new fashions waiting for one.
These are new, or are partially new, for
the march of fashion Is ever onward
through a country only partially ex
plored. New features are Introduced, im
provements are made, and In many ways
the old Is changed for the new.
The Countess de Castellane wears a
shoulder, enpe which Is a little deeper
than her shoulders. It Is made of satin
cloth and It Is cut perfectly round. It is
fattened down the front under a silk mus
linruching which goes around the neck,
making a nice stock. ' .
The edges of this cape are bordered
with hand applied ribbon put on In swirls.
The ribbon Is half an Inch wide and the
design Is -a conventional one. Th« colors
are black upon a pinkish fawn.
Miss Nellson, while abroad buying her
trousseau, in company with her
tive 'mother-in-law, purchased one of
these boas, not an old one, but one so
new that the winds of the Arctic zone
had hardly blown off it. It was a sable
affair, wide and flat and very long and
very deep on the 'shoulders. All around
the neck and down each side, right to the
very end, there was set a chiffon ruchlng,
which was tacked into the middle of the
boa. like a chiffon stripe running through
It. It was set deep in the fur and when
you first looked at it you wondered what
manner of ruchlng this could be, set 80
deep in the fur and apparently grown
and for It. Get It out and clean It with
magnesia or with clear water, according
to Us color and character; and then,
down the middle of it set a double chif
fon niching. This brings It up to date.
Miss Neilson's Boa.
THE SUNDAY CALL.
THE FLIRTATIOUS BOA AND THE PRETTY GIRL