Newspaper Page Text
House Gowns, Wrappers, and Negligees.
mmmOUEs are realizing more and more every
I\Ar l *««*\u25a0 -clothes mtitt be chosen carefully to
I YY I fit their uses, and whether ' the 'allowance
LmmJ for dress be liberal or limited, time and
I* t^SiKl l^ ou^^t mwt be Fp^nt to unsure the de
* i fit srtrcd results. The practical. economical
woman malt** a- regular business of her choice. In a
Ust not at' all extravagant there must be a street
sown, a mor* elaborate costume for .calling, etc., an
croejlng (two, ard a becoming gown to wear at home.
Q these are beoomlnir, fit well, and s re kept In order.
ther "WIU enable a woman to appear well on all oc
«B«tons.
Of an the luxuries In dresa of the woman of today
the first -undoubtedly is the tea gOwn. The • modern
Sasbionable tea gown ia one of the most expensive' of
any in the long list of the expensive outfit and quite
beyond the reach of any but the woman of large mean^.
However, this gown for the house goea down through
«in unending scale, of cost to comparatively cheap and
yet raovt becoming ones. * .
Snks make up most satisfactorily. These need not
b* expenKlv«. for often real bargains can be found in
flowered or plain silk. The princesse back, like a long
fitted coat, with plenty of. flare to the skirt, and open-
Ing over a front of lace or chiffon, is a* most -.practical
and effective style. Black brocade !» satisfactory, with
the front of white lace or black over white.' while with
a belt or bodice Just across the front of blue or any
color velvet, fastened with rhinestone buckle or but
tons, there is color enough..
The gown Is cut square at the throat and* the elbow
length sleeves are .finished with lace ; ruffles! ' "While
the gown must be well cut and carefully fitted, it need
not be so stiffly boned nor made so tight, as a dress
waist, and in fact should be as comfortable as possible.
The term house gown used to signify a wrapper or
loose gown, a garment suitable only to: the bedroom.
Now It comprises also the tea gown and includes the
•ta&Tity and most useful dress that, too light in color
and material for street wear, is worn in the afternoon
at home, at the theater, and similar public places.
There are inexpensive voiles and silks that can be
made -up in these gowns and look extremely well.
That the material should be expensive is not at all
essential.' but the gown. must be becoming and smart.
Individual taste and cleverness > have an excellent op
portunity here to display themselves.'
Models Intended originally for simple evening
gowns can eJeo be utilised for these ' home - gowns ' by
filling ln.at.tße neck, where this is "cut low, with a
ruterpe of net or lace.
Thera are a number of negligees, \u25a0wrappers, aid lit
tle t*a and combing "Jacketa Illustrated on this ;page
wltSi the brief description given, will enable the
home sewer to choose any. from among them to maSe
iMsself. .
atejpie, ,. plain % wrapper for one'e i room may be
«»«ren from albatross, cotton crepe, and -inexpensive"
\u2666•Wag, as weU as the pretty cheap flowered, cotton and
*pol challiee, with trlmminca of colored I ribbon and
3aoa. T>e thin materials xnay be Unedjwlthiaieolo'rjsto
wu> them warmer or may be . lef t unllned. r Ineipen
\u25a0wflowered India «Uks are good enough • for tea
•oro* . wnen attractively made and trimmed. '- On "such
«atras_Cbfr- maker may utillre the left \u25a0 over, trimming*
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
of more elaborate dresses .with^good." results.. Old ;lace
A may have the pattern cut out. when^thWj groundwork
has been worn-out, and the design may, be; applied on
net, ribbon, or : silk fora yoke, or trimming bands. '^ln
fact, many good old laces and embroideries. Which would
seem to be past their usefulness ara being utilized lln
this way on many gowns and ther fashion^ forrelaborate
j trimmings on tea gowns ' makes them especially yaliia-"
ble for such use. '\u25a0 : '-s. i -'i . \u25a0 V '" ".;'' ? -.*\- .;'/.' : - ' \u25a0 :(<^-"
The style for such a garment should be as simple *a
possible. A shallow yoke, back , and i frointi; Is f good,; with
the material ' gathered and hanging \full£from the yoke-,
and haying the yoke covered by a large fancy shaped
collar. ' \u25a0/;\u25a0 \ \u25a0\u25a0'.^V;. :^'Vl*... ./-,\u25a0":". ', . '(;\u25a0\u25a0,
One point well to rVmember in : cutting jou t : a one
piece garment is . that thfe .width at ; : the bottom 1 , always '
. ishad by goring the skirt «uti towards the. bottom on
the back edge. The bottom fit the %klrt on the front
• edge' must never come beyend the point of: the arm- :
hole. See the diagram. : vv ' :' ;
On 6 lovely negligee illustrated has. an f , under dress
of sheer" lawn or dotted muslin, cut; with" a little round
neck. This . fastens over towards \u25a0'" the ]\u25a0 sho«ld«r .on the
left side. Worn over this is pale^rose; India"; silk, the
lines long, straight, and simple. . The '; *llk Js , flnishe'd
around all* its edges wlth^ ruchings f of the * same.> The
outside is held in plac* oosn s the I fronts.^by rosettes "6t
the, sllk { and these' also hold the negligee Jn\ to ? the] fig
ure -whera - the; slits in the ; side finish' • at/ the "waist i line
at 4 the' under arm. The sleeves , are ; simple elbow • puffs,
finished; with a' deep frill of the' lace^ ; ; .
'One; pretty wrapper is of Tpink I and -white - striped
flannel,' bordered with satin . the shade of the; pink. VTh<»
tiny revere are covered -with-" lace, "edged;, with! narrow
satin bands.: The under sleeves arejof pink! net,* flnlshed,
with deep ruffles of lace, which"; have* ' beehV dyed Uhe
'same shade of pink as the rest : of ; the garment, iln: the
middle; of :; the* back. are' two- inverted plaits, -fastened
down to yoke* depth,- and Vat the outer * edges '; of
plaits a ribbon "is attached.-, brought \ around to ..the ,
frt>nt« and;the ends hang, nearly to, the .bottom of f the
wrapper. ; \u25a0 . *'•\u25a0• .; < * ,
\u25a0~t Another, house; gown is ;of dull bine* satin ; combined
with lace and a band of chiffon velvet at v the hem. Two
small .filigree , silver; buttons} fasten; the 1 of the
slashed ;'. bolero' effect. 1 The skirt 'tis //circular, .with
a : , circular /flounce; the middle \u25a0 back is in "; a. -Wide box
plait, the - aidej fullness" is i iris small: plaits, s and ;atV the
middlej of >the front .are inverted plaits.' (The; bolero'
finishes over ; the attached \u25a0 skirt," with ' the - edge • stitched
and piped ;with a narrow^ fold Jof* velvet. ]; : Atlthe fmi<l-^
die back {waist* line ;V] folded .velvet gifdlej shows. '"••;. The"
lace^is mounted on a thin sllkilinlng^^that^ends jat^fhe
bolero, edge, and the tucked chiffon, yoke fis
parent. : The t three > circular/ flares : that X form' the j'; top <
sleeve are piped and stitched -at the hern;, and the .lace
sleeves ' 'iar«; lined 'with "chiffon.;^ - '";;\u25a0/ \u25a0 . . -
>tiiwwiwiwßiiirßinwMMwnißiiiiiiy*inTir»iiT>(Wi i m*" ~ .\u25a0\u25a0 • ' -: : - \u25a0,\u25a0'
Two 'elaborate 'tea gowns are given, /made -of "the
sheerest l lawn' and* lace, ,. Quantities ' of ; it i being i used ' on
both gowns. One modal has '% the % body V part
made of ' alternate .; strips ( otj the I lawn and f- lace inser
t!on; mnnlnsy dlagdnaily, ~i which affords >i^4elightf ulty •
shapely], and "willowy^ appearance^* to '* the ji figure, that
otherwise 1 would ; be i • lacking ' ln t £6'} loose aYgown^ r a": furr..
ther 'gracefulj^nbte being added^^ by ; 'the deep* captrcdllar 5
&Tid the ruffle at th« bottom. { \u25a0 ' ' '
es f 6 r t h e Se w ing Rpo m .
' f^py%o 'amalour should attempt; a:; tailored jacket.
I •^J I Experience in dressmaking 'and lessons in
I *^l 1 \u25a0_ tt * 11 <» ri^;- I*n""»I *n"" » first-class j. establishment f ara":
JSpBEgl necessary -for success, as well a« long prae-
I^EKS tice. But If for any reason It seem? wise to
;^^^^*;make Jthe attempt, the following;, hints may
prove of / assistance. - The cloUi '.'._ for '"_ the\ coat ; must ; be
-well; sponged, and the tailor's; canvas (a. good . \ quality ;
bought for" 20; ! or .-. 25 ;cehts^aVyard)3and'
some ,; cheesecloth : must ibe ? well ; shrunken. \ If * there tis
\u25a0 an?up;andVdown to; the; cloth,, care^miist be^Uken'to
havethe nap.run i^own onfall the 'pieces.
The vpatteni is laid" on; the'double cloth and' well,
pinned," ; and*; each; piece ? is V around 7 the, edges:
.\with i tatlor^s /chalk. ;; Remove the pattern > and^{take a
!• long* double thread, /thenV take^ a V short stitch
; through ;\u25a0 both ;• thicknesses, 'with", a'^halfj inch; space I be- :.
• tween; and allow ;the thread ? to- Jcbp: Then' th»;2l»>se«
;are7 pulled Tapart; as well \u25a0 as u the f)u cad J will \ allow . and;
. the> thread ; is 'cut \ through* the^ iniddW ; leaving thread
on both 1 < pieces \, of (cloth, thus accurately marking ithe;
sfeama. All the pieces'; must' 1 ' be marked in this manner.;
.-•. iThc • . cheesecloth •, is "<• cut out > like ':» the £ outside '• and 'a
; basted to, the wrong side ; of the cloth! and v for; the half i
. fitting -coats ;;a^ regular. '; bust : , fornii is\' not- needed in; the
"- front. ;; Instead of .the libust form, two : pieces Tof -'\u25a0 canvas
jmay,be:cutfout^for'eacli v halffdf-the lfr6nt,Vcuttlng7the;
pieces, the" shape of ' the front \down '• to about two \u25a0 Inches ,
\u25a0 below the; armhole and .extending ;'the piece about * two .
inches ; above i the- shoulder seam/; Then ; cot :• two j slits;
;. in^the: armhole ; part;of ; the canvas 1 and' lap {them so ; as .
; Uo '; form "\u25a0\u25a0 twof darts', which; also will reduce \u25a0 the canvas .
Aio size 6f_ the; coat, armhblei ' v . ; ; * , : <\u25a0\u25a0
' r .There \u25a0is \ a double .thickness of canvas I used* for) each
f ront.-f . These : are'; bae ted \ CoVether..' and ;\u25a0 stitched :on ; the !
;\u25a0 machine, and V.up'i and .down, ; shaping it '- as * you '
..:. go^ i Hold;;; the ''coat* fron^i: right side ; r out ]'\u25a0 and^. pin \u25a0] the
canvas*' in place, ; then ; baste. -After < this theVcoat "Is
'.\u25a0ready to be' basted together! ' .'.•';.' -.- ,
V Waist . lines ; always \u25a0 sliou ld : be : basted in on i each . piece, "\u25a0
.\u25a0; and^when -\u25a0 pinning ; the; seamsV- together the waist,*-;n«ck;;
,'; and 1 HnpS ; should J meet exactly on '^every? piece.',
s .The j jßhoulder i and under a rmr pieces* are r basted ion! the"
:^ right rslde,; the other seams on"' the wrbng. "•••\u25a0' " \u25a0..\u25a0M-',-"> ..'"'.
;* : * : villn putting Jthe/Jacket on toVflt" It! J turn all : the 'seams ;
>'\u25a0* to ward ;the^frprit/;: unless \ there : : s^UldSbeldartsiltheae;
/v should : be^turnod •.to'fthe"' back: ,"> If any" padding Is JieMed'
; the} shoulders mark 'with pins while", the gar
!;\u25a0 tnent Is on. -^ J" r ;. _> v ' \ .'"•''"\u25a0 * *
;\u25a0\u25a0•'., ' Many ; are .apt to - stretch"! in' handling/ , and If. •
x the - : coat % rumples " r around : the ;,f armhole ;In the<back |it]
;\u25a0\u25a0. either t may be! on ''account fof . being stretched :or]the"ibackj
i; mayjvbet too ? long/; in^which?case^ the? alteration^ coimeii
\u25a0; at3,the J shoulder;^; If utretchlng^is ) thVt fault, 1"*1 "* run f afflnit
thread v around "> the ' amhole; J jpullinirl itftb J the \
?, I^ t l? IS9 ''i*% l ? la 3^?n|th«ledg»KofKa!boM^
\l ©ufhly, > lay ; a • cloth" on^ , place 'an! Iron ; en, and ' •hrlnkfall i
\u25a0 the ; fullneas dut^Take 's a| pleeef of - canvas 'onfthelbla*^
;l Btre ? e h It • well \j on: oneTedge,! and.'j holding • the";coat i right •
;\u25a0\u25a0-, side ; out,; baste \ the z canvas \ around \ the" J armhdlelon \ th'a f
back on;the^wrong; aide, {putting ' the 'ungtretchid -ed.lv
o«ar«t the edgeof th««rmhole. '.
Have the canvas about on* and
and <m«-'hatf tnch*s wM*. This
sihonML do aw»y with the puoJt
ering fand' falht«M aswmd th«
armhoi*. ;. ; :-\u25a0 \u25a0 • \u25a0 \ - f
; , Padding should frot be««ces-:
: aary around! th* armhol© on the
back if thefonegoinff frictions
are • i followed,';. but . often*im«a
there \ Is ": a; hollow^ between th«
shoulder .. blades, , which : has to
be fill«<* out wfth padding.' T»ke^
perhaps a couple of thickrresseV
of /cotton v batting and stitch
them well together, up and down
Mid ~{tLczp&B.\ shaving 'off ' the edges ;so 'no \ abrupt
ending"- will ibe "noticed.}; Put in ;. place ! and ' ; tack; firmly
to - . the 2 cheesecloth. * The < canva-s ; across the - front Tls
tacked - td^ the"; cheesecldth •in the earn© manner.
: A. new, way] or, using ombre striped silks .fa to mate
a . small \ box \u25a0. plait > at " the middle of each strip* '. to ' yofcfl
\u25a0 depth. i if f^ waist ; isj being! evolved,' or^ to • the' fall length
if ". preferred, f This emphasizes ' * the .Jmost s neutral " ; tone,
for 1 It Is from the middle ' the *. stripe 'gradually deepens
to l the % contrasted ' color. An amber ; tone, 7 for / Instance,
will \- show .';' reseda, "Vor '\u25a0 bhie.^orl violet ;aa'> the ; shading
' beyond, x bo'i that ;{ the prominence ' of • the^ amber : \u25a0 when
placed as a box plait is extremely.- attractive.
;.<'. The cway^to carry; a watch Is In f the pithn ' of
the t hand,';! just} above . the top \ button %of the glove, and
for this purpose ; are gloves and .attachments into which
the j jWa_tch,*? which '? should ":.beT a ;, small 1 one, l is T ] slipped/
Corsage and wrist watches have their votaries, and now
to) the > list lof ;\u25a0 possibilities ''% lsfadded lthe^ palm iwatcnv
.The J only] way of carrying; a'/watchlthat does '. not : return
to fashion is • the old y fashioned ; pocket set below Che
skirt band, and- this \ the X dressmakers will ' not revive.
-; -.:."-\u25a0: '- • . '\u25a0 .; ;•:\u25a0\u25a0-\u25a0« s \u25a0;;-.--- \u25bc '\u0084-,*..: \u25a0 - -• • ' \u25a0 \u25a0• \ \u25a0
,The braces ;\u25a0 are • likely ; to j bei ed'. "tuperabun- '.-
I dant * through i the £ warm ; weather,, tha t ; dressmaker s '• are!
{determined - to Jring t the ;\u25a0 changes '[ upon pother ! schemes
• that f'Wll'i not\deprive »us ; "of ,i theXpleaaant ; opportunity
s. Of A wearing^ different ~ chemisettes ; and <• sleeves .{wlthfone '
costume,- a change in \ which Juris*, economy^ -and ': di
versity, *both welcome characteristic*. , \
P||lnj^lminin#Xßktrta ~of * light i fabric* the J prevalent
; f aihlbn \u25a0\u25a0. of Js folds lat I the | henv* for | which ' la'; used : any- ~
thing Substantial, anch o« taffeta, satin, or velvet, [ta
, 4|~weloomeTone ~'{t orl practical^ r*a#ont^Thli iTulneraol**
r pi^Tbf|aTdanblnirf frock | j«j n<ot]M|opm|to|d^rsißtfm^
and v when: tolled 'can be replaced : *ri th' but small labor
=^Any4'a«aaatrMt.r: ;? : "i^^fp^it^^s^ .-\.; . :.r [
< Colored ; slips •In many different abadW are <\u25a0 neees-'
•try,- for ", the ; •umsier. outfit." \u25a0\u25a0 Batista V: '*re ' Softer
in * affect ; than ' silk : and, " : for ] wan jr *'oeeaalo&t; » more ' sat
The San rraucisco Sunday Call.
i%i%taotory. for they can ;be laundered Instead of . bein i
aent"- to the cleaaara, Cwhlch ; Is \u25a0 the \ only possible :'waj
of ; freehaslng; one ; of . silk.
