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A Practical and
Moderate Trousseau?:
_!IE following suggestions are intended for the
T bride of next spring who wishes to begin
some of her trousseau now, and by the end of
a^- six months she will have everything in eatis
jSjSS^Sk* fact ory shape without havins been obliged to
overwork herself. While the dresses, etc., can
be planned for In a general way now, the actual' making
naturally is postponed as long as possible, so as to
take advantage of any pretty new fashions which may
come in.
Probably the majority of women In moderate circum
stances allow themselves a stated sum of money to ex
pend on their trousseau, end try not to exceed that
amount One's future rather than one's present position
will determine almost entirely the style, quality, and
number of things to be purchased or made. This article
refers more especially to the woman who expects to have
c email apartment or cottage and do the bulk of* her
housework. For $200 she ought to have a satisfactory
outfit, provided she makes nearly everything herself.
Ebe might for some of the gowns have a dressmaker
at her home for several days; otherwise she should do
everything herself.
It will be safe to turn one's attention first to the
lingerie. Plan to have four complete sets, and have
every piece of a set match in style of trimming as well
as in the trimmings used. As a good deal of this will
be hand work. It Is a good plan to get several things
ready, and by doing c little at odd times 'one is aston
ished to find how much will be accomplished. - v
With a good pattern each of a nightdress, chemise,
or corset cover, drawers, and petticoat, .any style of
trimming can be followed, marking oft on the -pattern
being used the shape of yoke, lines of insertion, or em
broidery, etc. Use as fine materials as possible, and al
ways let quality rather than quantity count
It no longer is considered the part of good taste to
load with trimmings. Hand embroidery is much in
vogue, and nothing much daintier in a chemise is neces
sary than one finished with a small scalloped edge,
with the slits for running the ribbon through worked
below. Instead of hemming the bottom or putting a
ruffle on, it Is pretty to work a deep scallop. In buying
cambric and cotton doth, look carefully to see that the
size of the threads Is even, and that the bearing is close.
If $25 is allowed for materials for four sets, each to
consist of four pieces, and not too much of it is spent In
laces and embroideries, a goodly showing can be made.
Two or three dainty eacquea or short negligees are
nice to have. Make one of pink albatross. If this Is a
becoming color. There is one shown on this page which
would be bewltehlngly pretty, and if there are any little
lace or embroidery medallion* in the house set them In as
shown. A narrow French or German Valenciennes edge
makes a pretty finish. Then one or two may be made of
dimity cambric or dotted swiss, and with longer sleeves,
higher neck; ia fact, more on the lines of a simple
eacque. and simply trimmed. These all can be made by
a plain shirt waist pattern and should not cost over 910.
A loose wrapper Is another thing which can be made
at any time. A pretty material is French flannel. This,
however. Is expensive, and one made of a pretty outing
flannel et 12 cents a yard would answer the purpose
just as well and would cost a great deal less. One like
the Illustration on this page can be made of seven yards
of thirty inch wide material, and with about an extra
dollar spent for the finishing of the neck ani sleeves
would make this wrapper cost less than $2.
A petticoat, the upper part of which is made of
white moreen cut by a seven gored pattern and made
habit back will be most practical if several ruffles, cir
cular or gathered, are provided, made of silk or what
ever Is necessary to wear with the different dresses to
be made. These ruffles can be made to button on to the
foundation, and will wear much longer than when the
•upper part is made of silk. If two ruffles will b6 enough,
$10 will cover the cost.
Other things that can be made at any time, and are
decidedly nececsary for a woman who expects to do the
bulk of her own housework," are kitchen or working
dresses end aprons. There absolutely is no excuse for
a woman's, looking unattractive and untidy while work
ing. It should be quite the reverse. Two percale or
mercerized gingham dresses, made in one pleoe, like
an illustration given on this page, will be attractive and
pretty. The skirt Is gored, and the plaits In the waist
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKERS
correspond to the lines of the gown. Inverted plaits can be set in each gore,
although it Is not a necessary addition. -.The 'skirt should clear the floor by at least
four inches, and -there^ should; be] a/> deep jhem\to tallow,: for; shrinking.. Such'; a
dress can be made i of ; seven : yards of |" material' thirty-six ' inches wide. " Percale'
or gingham can be. bought 'for.* fifteen cents a', yard;' and; as 'no trimming js nec
essary, the cost /will be only $2.loifbr/the7two./ • ' \u25a0"•'-*' \u25a0 -\u25a0"':-'\u25a0 :v \u25a0 ' ; j (*'
When a woman expects to /go out in the 'evening, or ; have. company^ for din
ner, or .. for any / other reason to : dress [herself ; before "? the'evenlng !\u25a0 meal,"
one of the long,' plain aprons s whic&*- fasten; in * the back i and are maided with \u25a0 long
sleeves 1 will be found Justthe /thing.l One such apron/should : be" enough to start
.with, and i t cant be made -of /gingham^ or calico ' for ;\u25a0 a/ebs t of about \75 cents.;
These aprons reaUy'take almbst r asimuch cloth^ as r a (dress, \'but. there fare times
when they are invaluable and/nothingiwillt take their place. •\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0:.\u25a0\u25a0.\u25a0. y \u25a0:\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0-\u25a0': ..-.
Naturally, "great -interest centers" in)'. the actual*; bridal? gown,! * and^ if there is
to be a quiet but^ pretty, home ;/weddlrig,'; white? in? some \u25a0 f orm { .wlllibe chosen. A
dress which could be made t ; useful f afterwards "would \ be » (bne/bf jii fine plain
net, , which is i 60 \u25a0" cents 'a "\u25a0 yard,Vtwbl yardslwide, -and ,wlll ;take^ six i yards;? and if
it is made with; quite a- little (tfain/this\later^oh*c^nlbe/cut(off'andi the: dress
used for dancing of, some ceremonious. occasion -at; anjr^ ; time ; ofs year. 5 A taffeta
foundation will be ';. necessary, and /wltbAttie i exception -=" of some 'I lace ; to/ use ?in
the neck and sleeves . there n«^d ! ' be r'no-! added' expense.^ Such a 'dress" will cost
about $20.-,;-; \u0084; ".' '""V * ''"-.,. 'C- ', ""
. A veil, of course, is a thing one does not have to have, <but it makes/the req
uisite , finish . to /the ; : toilet. .. ' If ; a ".woman - is : , fortunate ;\u25a0 enough "to ? possess *an
heirloom ; in \a/ beautiful ' lace r yell ' she - will,': of •; course, /wear I it, otherwise '; bneTof
tulle will [. be the/correct i thingJ /This \ will" cost i $ s;] and f gloves ;nnd slippers 1 and
white silk stockings/will" cost :s6,^makihg'a' .total 'for* thelbridal^costume .'of J31.;
One good tailor made suit Is considered ;.a*. necessity ;ahd,/whilQ this would not
Instruct V our Daughter in the r ascmatmg Art of Mending;
' ' km a T seems sometimes as if , theart of /mendlrig;is almost afloat one, arid
A Ti yet there is i nothing/ more/ essential ?f or Ta/ glrlyib.; acquaint herself
Jx 'J| with. And' lf she really - learns todo= this well.lt is safe" to; predict
it will be a real pleasure. Things; skilfully mended /last'ltwlce I . as
|^| long and ; certainly^'lbokj ;niuoh; better /while, they* are worn. When a
m ? m i*P* f/dress or "any; garinenti ls/^aken/bff \ itlshould|bel lobkedibverand "never.
put away; if ; there is 'any thlng;that m eeds • to be done ;to It. • In this : way clothes
always will be; in order and ready to put "on at a moment's notice. ;• ; v ;
Darning stockings Is a necessary; form of ''mendlng,t and'al^^ nil stake /too . often
made Is in using too heavy i ;cottbn," making a/lumpy,|uncomfbrtable,;arid;unsight«
ly . place, ; when ,* In' reallty/i t v should/bjj perf ectl3r£smboth?| It|is)bctter^tb > hold' the
stocking over; the hand; rather than over a, darning ball,, as the I latter/xnethod'
Is: apt to stretch the « stocking and; make the i hole |Tlie| darn? doubtless \'
will ; look better if it* ls/done^on the •right/side/ Use/Tone Hrtraiid \ of thY darning,
cotton t and run^e/^titches Uh on/ 1^
. three" stitches \. the *. worn; place I at ; each i ea&S The must \u25a0be | laid :
close together, : then '."•take /stitches r acrosa i; the/^width',ln the, same 'mariner, > only
HBkil'"'-' !'""'\u25a0• V \u25a0' '' : ~; "\u25a0'\u25a0\u25a0. \u25a0- : '-^ : ;--v.v~ ;-/^^-^->^ : : '.' \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 ; ." ~ \u25a0-\u25a0'\u25a0:'\u25a0:'' \u25a0- •-•\u25a0<-.
be j^hosen , until ; later/pni » tht amount vto b« set aside for It win be figured on
now.), Forty ja6lla«,BhouM;buV-a»tyli«l»:«^;e^irely »atißfactor7 one.
:•;! One Creasy/ driwa- of !voile^*ll^
will \u25a0be all > that t la : necessary for {receptions, ', formal calls, theater, etc. ;If I this
"«*\u25a0\u25a0"**•;** homejHsc^}be-raad«?probaJbly ; ;forJ|2l. A" pretty = trimming, -when
one.does not care to to make milliner's folds
and scatter, French' knots at Intervals : on these same folds. . The girdle is pretty
: made ?of the A dress I material; ; perfectly I plain, ; outlined; on; both edges with bias
;folds^and imt^ing Pa!thirdjbne:<m; starting It at the upper point of .the girdle in
.the middle 'oft theiback^dibrtagingUt- to^sharp! point at'thebottbm of f the
girdle in the middle. of : the ; fronts OuUlne .the ? lace yoke or front, also, the nar
row lace cuffs ;br bands with /the; folds; also. '--\u25a0.'\u25a0
Thenthere are the' etceteras to be allowed for. Two or three hats, which, if
a woman is } clever .• in observing ? and • good fat 3 Imitation, can be made to come 4
under |15. ' - ,„ - *\u25a0 - } - , . - \
\ Gloves and shoes probably will- use up another $12 or $16. leaving a nmnrin
>of;$18 j for.:any.littleTextras.j:;/.V.:-;^; : .,V7 : ->;v.. -, ; ;.- /• ' \u25a0 ;'.-,*,-, '\u25a0\u25a0 ; ' ; ' "
The art of beingi well ; dressed consists ;in keeping everything always in
border > never \u25a0} put < on; any thing that meedsr needs \to have a ; stitch taken. i This "not 'only
\u25a0 n will ; insure *a; good/appearance/but i the fclothes last .twice 'as I long. See to
the Vundergannents^underlirieniiß' 'more* important i; than else Keep
your pe±ticoato;irrepr(>achable::se«:thati;they!accordlwith the and 'are so'
cut that they make/the; dress; set ; well - over, them: YAi^cannotpossiblyl be well
r gotten tup unless ; you ere well ; corseted. . i Your stockings must , b*~caref ully eon
:>. Bid ? red ;^ nd \ ** l"*** l^/ fl r« LWn \ «P- \u25a0' In ? dresses. • etc., choose '.; the f colors :, that f suit'
vyouj^donotibe^drawn awayibyi fashion' and'make'yourselfhldftbus.l Realize In
every, point -what suits you and keep to'thbse thlngs~and adapt current fashions
*to s them. ..•>\u25a0'\u25a0 :,:..^-'- ".-:;:.\u25a0-''''.\u25a0 :'\u25a0:'-: y ; y : :-' : '' '-"- ;" ":."'- '-'--v. ' ; . ..'/: -\u25a0\u25a0''\u25a0 \u25a0 '\u25a0" \u25a0''-.. \u25a0\u25a0• .\u25a0\u25a0
, ; : Dress [well at ' home J and never 1 let any one see , you at a disadvantage. '" Do
."\u25a0; not^ av -®; too^ man^ clothes ; at ; once ; and avoid " buying : anything, that is cheap
".when"; you do not need it- :: ; \u25a0- ' •,_ --•
Interlacln g- ;; th em > in/ and ; out /of - the; lengthwise/ stitches. / NaturaUy no' knots
* r . 6 . P e^ lßS i b b e'e ' ia. nd ; w ,hen/flnish'ed,' if .evenly .done, a darn •is actually, a 'thing of
beauty.';; If a person 'only, ; cahj be persuaded; not to.hurry with woik,- but do even
the] smallest Uhings^ith^afe7vthelresult| lsJsureTtb'be'aikP'en'iplea.surelin the
"domgof^lt^andlt^w^b^To^yiaishbrt^time^
is attained. When \u25a0 one^understaridal thoroughly/ how; to ; do \u25a0 a ; thing well. 11fnatuf
ally will ; go i more' or;le6s ; ra.pidly.-t and this ; wlthoutf thiat- hurrying" •"which lls ex
haustinglto.one's nerves and/disastrous tofgobd work/ /V, ~ " ; ; i.; r
// \u25a0 Sometimes ; one maf, be unfortunate enough to make an ;\u25a0 ugly tear in a woolen
dress^ Bnaalliboys/andJ girls -afel farnous^fas ;We airknow; for getting the^worst
kindsiofjUars in; their ;clothes>/T^e/t«^np^ce^us^^
with of ithej material \lf /possible/, or ; fine / silk : or Jwool, as"- the • case may
be. On ", twilled goods the ; darning/ stitches/ can ~. be J takenVthe v way 'the- twill
runs, and/when: pressed , will ; hardly/ show.;; Sometimes 'i mending tissue = answers
thelpurpose; perfectly. This ; is kept at the* notion ; counters of department 'stores
and; full, directions for; usingcome . with 'it/ It; is next to -Impossible to^detect
aHorn" place mended -\u25a0withT this v tissue. ; ' \u25a0 •• ' - -
Notes of Interest to
Home Dressmakers.
the garments of today the ornamental but
y"^^ ton occupies a position of Importance, and
V/'X* when; these : are incmsted/ with *nainel3 and
»\u25a0«\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0( jewels or encircled with embroidery they are
, \WJ& I by no means inexpensive. Therefore the woman
PgJcsHJ with a moderate dress allowance would do
well to turn her attention to 'the 1 embelHshment of a set
or two : for/ herself.; This is not difficult. So many ways
"of - ornamenting buttons! can be thought out and experi
mented upon,- th« tiny bits of work are so fascinating,
and the -result so pleasing, this branch of art work is
sure" to become popular. t
/On brown": Cloth costumes or coats large buttons don«
in pyrography work . , are new and effective. For these -'t
large wooden buttons should ba procured from a tailor.
Those /measuring over an inch ; in diameter are hand
«ome. /-These all have a hole through the center, into
.which a tiny loop of string can be Inserted from the
back and firmly secured in place by a bit of compo
sition formed of whitening and size, which also serves
to fill- up the hole" «ritlrelyl" When rubbed; down with
sandpaper to remove all roughness the button should
present /an c even surface : upon /which the design may
be 'worked /but'.; Some are done entirely in plain burnt
'work and shaded,; geometrical patterns being \u25a0 employed
and 'fine - points only, made use of. Others merely hava
the /outline ; burnt in,/^he- design .being filled in with
stains. ; Others show/a tracery of piarced work, which
is highly decorative and uncommon. For brighter colors
paint/the; wooden buttons with water colors, first pre
paring the~*surf ace with two even coats of Chinese
white. Velvet buttons of good slae are seen on out
door garments and evening wraps. These sometimes are
painted, but miniature subjects are difficult to execute.
Among the dress embrolderl« precedence must be
given to the filet , br ode, of which some dressmakers
are making such fascinating use. The work by no
means Is beyond the scope of amateur fingers, and any
one anxious to undertake it needs only to bring to the
task a* certain amount of skill and Inventiveness to in
sure the most ' Satisfactory results. There are three
ways of making filet brode. In the first place, the whole
of: the' filet lace, ground work as well as design, may be
carried out by the worker herself before the embroidery
i.i commenced; In the second, a handmade filet can be
bought and the -design worked upon this in lace tnread
and afterwards embroidered with silk or lustrine thread;
in the third, and simplest, one of the many excellent
imitations of filet lace now to be had may be used as
background and expadltiously embroidered as lightly-^
or as solidly as fancy dictates. The characteristic of 1 *
much of the filet brode, where flowers are used, is the
peculiar raised effect given by the petal 3 of the Sowers
; literally standing away from the background, after the
manner . of the* flowers ; In point de gaze. They are in
no way attached to the filet except at the base. In this
style of treatment the design should be first drawn on
glazed calico, as a lace pattern would be; the filet then
is tacked down to . It' and the design worked in silk,
chenille, or luitrine. For the flower petal 3 a fine wire
in used and buttonholed over, the petal being then filled
ie with delicate point/ de Bnxxelles. The flowers are
carried out in their : natural colors with fllo floss, the
leaves . and stems in , , chenille. Where bold, handsome
effects are required, a coarse * lustring thread may be
substituted. A simpler way of working; fllet brodd is
where the actual pattern of th« lace. ls darned in with
moss green, chenille, making a simple but wonderfully
effective trimming. ' -
"^Frocks fo» the younger members of society who are
not permitted the comfort of a tea gown are especially
'• attractive Just now. One 1 exceptionally pretty dinner
gown of .this season's model was of white muslin .with a
«'• large '. pink ; rose pattern, the material made up over a
perfectly fitting pink princess silk lining, although sep
arate from it so that the slip might be worn with other
dresses and the dress itself worn over white if desired
for the sake of variety. The gown was decidedly em
pire, made with a square low neck a trifle higher than
the regulation evening waist The kimono sleeves were
caught down under the belt of the draped pink silk rib
bon placed up high on the waist The sleeves were
bordered with a bias fold of pink silk and fell over a
puff formed of ruffles of lace. The belt was draped in
black and fastened ia a tight rosette, from which long
ribbon streamers fell . almost , to the end of the skirt -^
The skirt itself : was not so full about the waist andj^
hips, but from below" the knees there was considerable
; fullness.
The Sunday CalL
