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Prevailing Tendency of the Season's Styles Is Toward' Tight and Trailing Skirts
*=— psaasExT is generally conceded to be a woman's
*3LI 57 j duty to make herself look as attractive
£|4; i $1 jas she possibly can. This means, first, of
«^| 21 I all giving unfailingly carcml attention to
Wtoßß all details pertaining to the care of one's
G^^f^&S Personal appearance, for ' without a clear .
skin, well or becomingly arranged hair,
showing that rood care is given it, in fast,
«v«rything pertaining to the same details, the finest
clothes even will not look well. '
Given this groundwork, so to speak, and the sim
plest clothes will, if well made and well put on, give
the woman wearing them a charm and a distinct'ad
vantage over the more expensively but less carefully
iflrejEsed woman. -•'."*' '."'.'*. .' .'
Women in business, oo matter what kind, have so
; little time they can call their own that every moment
practically is made to count; and whether they make
most of their clothes or buy them ready, made depends
largely perhaps on whether they sew well and like to
do it. "Women who can make what they wear are
pretty apt to find the time some way for sewing, as
they; realize an enormous saving In the amount of
- money epent in a year's time; and the things generally
\ ax« better made.
• There* are styles enough and to spare from which
to choose clothes this season. While the general tend
ency Is toward a higher waist line, longer and .trait
4ng skirts, and tighter ones, yet there are all types.. .
There are shirt waists. separate blouses, one piece
dresses, on the order of the princess or empire, long or
ehort separate coats, and a great variety of styles . In
; suits from, which to make a choice. One rule the wfell
dressed business woman never breaks, and that is, she
never wears any extreme style, especially during busi
.' ness hours. If a new suit has been decided on for
business wear this winter no mistake will be made In
'fcavins a plain one. Two styles are shown, either one
; of which will be appropriate and good looking.
Like black, the plain tailor made is entitled to
"«. season of popularity now and then and for both
«uch a season Is Imminent "Within the ; last few
\u25a0weeks a number of . plain but distinguished looking .
tailored costumes ; of black broadcloth, tussah. serge,
and satin, with close fitting skirts and snugly fitted cut
away coats have made their appearance. That they.;
,-were greatly admired was patent to all who saw them.
They are the straws indicating fashion's breeze. When
the breeze blows in such a, direction It Is a sensible
\u25a0 out to follow. Unless one feels sure of being success
HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
ful with it, it. will not be' wise to attempt*/ it.^ how
ever, as a ' plain , tailol-ep .'suites difficult \ to V make/'p/T
One.of file cuts shows a? suit- made of a combina-;
tlon .of plain and ' plaid materials ; ; the skirt, [to • get \ the :
best 'effect, will' have "to . have • the : side 'and ""cut j eir.c'u-*
lar, which -is the only" drawback 1 to' using the* plaid. u;
\u0084It would, be . an-»lmppsslbiHty ,to r match/ the'^plaJd,'
perfectly" In a gored jsklr ; t; : , .But/If -'the skirtjlk'fln
ished except' around :tho bottom , and f thenValiQwedl to
hangup^for seyeraldays, even pinning Bomethlng'rather;
heavy ; on the sides xrtiere ttie*mate'rlal Is' bias,'; lt. will
help It to atretch,, and it may^ g:lv,e-liUle;.or.~n'o»troub > re t
afterwards. After it' has 'hung .several .days ,.,lt/ f can
be taken down and finished around this bottom.;"*' "'.'
A beautlfurjflrni quality; of .'cloth' can, 'be, bought
showing: a dark blue -ground, (the plaid being made 'by
narrow lines of black an4/green\' for/j1.76 ,'to $2' a/yard. 1
Three "and one-half yards, -fifty-* out inches wide; should'
cut. the skirt, and. leave 1 - enough/ for- 'the • rjairow 'fad
ings on the coat..' .There .as a \u25a0• narrow,, frqnt /.gore,, of
plain blue, and the rather- close fitting- cutaway h coat
Is the ; blue.' If doslred I 'a -'second i turnover 'collar,
may be put on. like the illustration ;'ofV velvet,', using'
the same' on the cuffs. ••' The r vest may^ be, separate*. or
attached. ;. -V,' -, ; ' > vr / t . « • ;• \u25a0:.>\u25a0;\u25a0':' -'<t.j f--.
» • , "j —-••\u25a0 : .'.• t st A" ; \u25a0 ... ,-:.•.•.- :'.: '. •.';
.• "'. The other suit. 'is r made' ln plain bljwki sefge,\show
ihg. a rather, "widy ' wale.[ THe.'sklrt/* is /cut'^ffomconG
of the now . eleven gored patterns, 'with /a ;hablt ? ,back', !
-which, however, 'ddes not .fit,, tight..: As; "can /be. seen.Uhe^
skirt is plain.. The • toat, has-thc \u25a0 cutaway -directrolre
fronts land a, tight .fitting* back.-' The 'entire "*Bult;Will
look* well-made' 'without v any except f. the
stitched seams and edges. ; / f .,;. r> < _ ; ,. ./.;.-.. t .^ *\u0084
/Nothing looks .better with, the skirt ; pf a | suit/of /this,
kind than ,-a t whlte tailored* shirtwaist,' but-* they
hardly are , an ' economy ff or regular wear/* as 5 they I al
' ways should j be' immaculate,' which , means / a 'clean? One ;
every day. It' is nice to have' a couple, ".though, .'tp wear
once In a ..while. A' simply /made blouse Z of Ifcrepe'.'/de,
chine the same color,, as! the suit is .pretty, "and iif.Jmade;
with i only • a' yoke and; uppen sleeve V lining! will , launder ;
nicely; 'Or a couple //of vwaah*.flanri'el^waists,•^llke.'fth'b,
one. shown on this page,, will good. ; service; and; be.
pretty, looking. . " .:. ..'"'\u25a0•*,
' Perhaps one may have a separate- coat 'which 'will';
,look : well for business wear, 'and -instead r.of *needfnff
a. suit, some! Btyllsh.sepa/a-te^sklrt^and.. several ;blo.uses;
are what will; be needed; A 1A 1 pattern ' which -/wiii; make;
up' most attiaQtively.4s.th"eVßklrt»wlththeUupkVd*fr6nt»
gore and , circular.; sides arid back. \> The "material 'chosen 1
:y ;i :\ ? \u25a0 ;'; ' '«'•' .'.. '\u25a0'' .-\u25a0 - ;: - ' -' ! -" : - : '\u25a0\u25a0 ; :"•;' :v: v ".*' ."\u25a0•-"
closely": woven,'; so ,r, r It: will nbt:gfve - :
\u25a0trouble; on : ; the; sides, /'in! i cutting' out J.lt? should* be '•'wide'-'
I enough j 1 to * allow, for \u25a0 the • turning iback i in^ the '\u25a0 graduated .\u25a0
f henis^o^^tucks >n' efther side -of lthV Y front:,^AVfrqnt; .
I gore - : is . cut* wide enough to" be caught ! in, ' the stitching'- j
of. the tucks,' 7 \u25a0which 'go?. the length of. the J fronts. ,t This \u25a0
; S? re ,; ™W r^« i lth ?r : ->b,e . a (Plain .one.,: with; soutache j! braid^
'.put Jon,'':, running:; across; ' or' the^dress material* may^be'*
; tucked, .imaking 1 ithe »"tucksV.three-eiffhths iof >an : Inch
wide and / pne.and.;one- : half"lncihes "apart.-,,; '„ \u0084 V -"•/ • •
.\u25a0\u25a0/".--'.''.i^v^W •:;-V ; < -; : ,'*^-> ; ;. 'r' t .^- r V- '';:;'". '•';•..\u25a0\u25a0'• "~ : •'\u25a0\u25a0•\u25a0'.\u25a0'
\' : Business -women almost 'more* than any \ other r class \u25a0
•?n«ed; relaxatlon-;arid. /recreation, 'and for.;the"; latter ,cer-' ,
tain - t so-called vV good /clothes", are /necessary.';"-, 6ne iyearl
| } fc >m& y vbßv b8 E ai - d tess'y ;; suit;- or.; a | one^ "piece fTgown • with |
coat, ,to /; ma teh, ; and | the); next [ y.ear It J' will \ dbub tless \u25a0: \u25a0.
-, be ,as , hindsQrne.'a^gown ;a's Jean '\u25a0•be/a fforded"; thus! al- '-.''j.
managing tb.haye a pleasingchahge at .hand. 'One
'thing which ; must » not - bei'f or«otten s .lsj that \u25a0women /who '
\u25a0i. depend on •.street /cars and . trains.. to7 go' .to^ and ;frbrn>,
• r -ln -cannot, choose ; as 'elaborate and- 5 delicate clothes ;as .
those .who^go' in -'\u25a0•'\u25a0' \u25a0:iV~.?>- ' :i: i ;: - i ! '. A /: ', \u25a0 :\u25a0' -\u25a0 \'
| ?' gown ; ; t suitablej ,for and: , restaurant''
' wea f*/', -^ n i^ n FF o*l^'be0 * I^ ' be - wbrn > under" some,-; separate•"long""
-, c 9^ t 'l a> '? o *} .^nished /satin^or,; % chiffon". caßhrnere 'in ;
i e ?F^^ e^ o P ln^olor/wm ; makeup'beauUfuliy;and,wlU \
/ing; cholce;* : whlle wistaria "red, dahlia puri.le.- ? and Tmahy /
• other _ off,the new' H shade's .give one. a,' lwJde' \u25a0 range!^to de-^
from.' ; — \u25a0 •'• v-^v -^ \u25a0•'•\u25a0\u25a0.*' ,-;.-\u25a0\u25a0 - i_ ; . .;..\u25a0-,-.-, =\ \u25a0' v -, •*- '.
v .The' foundation -skirt 1 should be' a /soft' 1 finished itaf- '
i f eta, ,or.\better rstill,, satin. rfAll .this , may ,'soundr like j ex- ;
i; travagance, - but a gown which i ls-to*beareaily3haf»d-»;«
some "oneYshotild' not ; be 1 spoiled /by -a Jpobrj lining; t for ':
\ c.'c .' qtmUty.^ of ; the-lining' h,as: a~ direct ;bearinjr > on ; the |
-;:fhangv.^of. the .outsfde "skirt './•' It ;" ; .will;/; boV safer 'Mn,- V
making_"thlsl foundation />kl/t 'to buy^C.'aJl new ./'seven-'
.gored; pattern;? as ' 4the->4 the-> old \u25a0\u25a0/patterns 'are/: too/: wide"::at ;
the ..ifooL.-.iTh'e;.walsUllnlng,may'.. be "a ; gobd'^q'ualit'y of '
.; percaline ;or ai Hghtwelght/sllesia; ;/: V.>:t >. . ; .- \-.;^.^.
i ;.-.Two; beautiful \u25a0go wris" "arellllustrated :' on ' \ this $ page
.which! would ;be- •sultable'}fpr |a'ny*- dr^essyV occasion v al- "
i mo . B }.' f a ? d ; JL ould ; not I be i" too ; difficult to .make at ; home!" 1 ' :
The ; first one , has/the^ f oundatidn ; skirt E put : on la?. fit
4l^ < & T . dle > yw hlch I extends . two and bneihilf . inches above* >
jtho ;_walst;; line/ and 1 ; Is/ perfectly '/ bbnedr^ The [outside" v
-^ k ! rt :.!» -_ cut - f T 0I ?J a * one ? piecV circular [skirt* patternfand^.'
« has no i middle ;frbn^ s'eamr-" Tne, bottom \u25a0 is" flhisHed ! with":-.'
;*^\u25a0 l^^f*^ lh em;vmadeib^uslnV/a*\u25a0trlpvof4the'"d^e^
i ™**?f ?*V J-® n .- i " 4 th'e.-J" true V bias * and^ puttlh'sT ; -it- on-ai* v a*>
.. f iicjng,_hemming^ it ; dpwn _ invisibly by .hand.' The top
of- the", skirt finishes above the waist .line!" ~ being fas
tened *t6 the top. of 'the narrow "foundation 7 girdle.
The bodice^ls r put on a fitted lining, which must; be
boned.,' ;If • made .like th« cut. the lace. 'on a .suitable
foundation, \shoqld. be ; . lajd., on. " tlie "bodice first, 7 , then
the rportion under the arms covered/ making this piece
large; enough. to; turn » back ; arid t form the revers. After
this ' has; been done the straps going I'over;1 'over ; the. shoulders
are ; made; and [ tacked Into position. > fa - . • v
. t-^he.'secohd gown- shown -Is \ perhaps- more difficult
to make. ;but if one 'feels that 'it can be done It is well
worth t.trying. f, A ; nHed princess slip, V which may be
made of nercalln* or a lightweight sateen,' is the first
step.^ »--"; v , \u25a0' '-. :\u25a0\u25a0' • - ; ' ';. --' . ;
How to Match Plaids and Stripes Perfectly
t— —^LAIDS • and 'stripes .. in : dress materials are^so
r+i -^) -popular; at present .that* women who do;thelr
,' \^ j: i9 w n; sewing and yet do not pretend tb'-b* ex-
Mmjjh .perts will welcome ebme few hints about the
;|«ON| correct matching of these materials. One
wuSbu? : sees much Imperfect work on this order, and
to" ari^ observing "•.woman the imperfect matching Is al
ways jeViden*t : ,'and , art eyesbfe. making-a skirt ! of - a
plaid; material | a' circular j pattern \u25a0is as 'good \ as any, ' as
the-fawer^ seams there, are. the .better, the effect is-^ln a
s!Urt.;x There | us-ually - is ; a , s«ara |in the of, the
frprit,'' and'' the first gare j should_ como in the j buying .of
\u25a0the^plaidr.T. "" V; ' .7: "*.""."\u25a0" . '.. \u25a0 "
* ;V.Mahy, A designs ') show not only j an , oip 'and down" ; but
also, a "'right and left, . and ; if possible it isl better to
choose one which. lacks at: least some of th'esa. features.
Then./.too, the plaid; may be oblong- in shape^lnstead of
squafe.v --.;"\u25a0\u25a0.' '.'^ * \u25a0 j \u25a0\u25a0.'. '.„\u25a0\u25a0' l'
\u25a0 By ; " right arid left", and "up.and.down'" Is meant
thatthet prominent color may have on ono"si:ic' only a
hair/llne"or, riarVow: stripe' of white or some othi r color.
It' is; much; more 'difliculti properly -to put this "kind" to
gether t i than where-- the plaid is an 'l'eyen'j one. '-"; In buy
lngjmateriall'for a l'plald dress extra /goods rjust be
allowed, , as ten -cuts /to r considerable- waste.
•V/?Toyget 'the j most ; pleasing /effects the .middle, front
seam of , theskirtlshould be bias— not. a trueVb.'as. but
one of. the. long .biases. ; The most, prominent part of the
plaid; should have.' a\;mtte*red; effect^ after .team 'Is
finished.' Lay "the, material \ on '•• the f table iand: fold one
end .'by'er.'jsjO^asjtO; get'; the;deslredi effect : for.- t:ie middle
of /^the/; front. C 'A thread should ;bo run .in- /with ' fine
stitches.; exactly w over.: the line marking- the7se3m, or a
djstiribt\chalk; mark? 'of j the' skirt "k" k may; be : cut
out/v beingr sure *to • ' allow" a ;\u25a0>. three-quarter" - of,' s n I nch
seam : .bey - oiid "the ' : line' marking .the ' middle "• front • seam,
always "done" oii ; the^^.selvedge. l ,;;lniorder to 'do. tLis ' cor
rectly/and[with the"4e"ast ; trouble in thVerid jbarte back
the eel vedge^edgei towards "' the wrong; side on ' th* part to
be*"placed,*;and i lay*ithls' on /»omV of .the uncut goods,
The San Francisco Sunday Can.
This must be cut the right le'nsth. train and aIL
Put the outside -material on the bottom of this slip
and let it extend a little above, the knees. The outside
Js made to fasten on v the left side.' so the material for
the; front must have a fold of the goods laid on the
middle front' of the pattern. The middle back has a
seam and the gown must fit smoothly everywhere. If
the material used ; will permit, a band of oriental trim
ming will be handsome on.the botfom of the tunic part.
The tight fitting sleeves and plain yoke of lace are
put over a lAce and ..chiffon .foundation and are at
tached, to tha ' foundation lining , before Che tunic Is pot
on.- The \u25a0 artnfioles of the tunic are cut large, and a
circular / short' sleeve, finished with a small ball fringe,
is set into the tunic "armhole." .'-.V-
'shifting 1 it about' unttj it exactly 'matches, an regards
"up "and "down," "right 'and left." and lay tbs pattern
on so- as ta .be sure enough length Is allowed to cut
out . afterwards^.-'..
. "When -'the * material Is laid on right stick *>ins In
along the basted 'edge to hold in position on the uncut
cloth. Now/ hem- me basted edge lightly to the Cat-sur
face of the uncut material, only catching in the tip
edge of the folded material, and everywhere be sura
th« patterns match absolutely.
; After -the 1 length., is V hemmed, pull out the basting
which folded the selvedge back, turn to the wrcrg side,
baste carefully, and. cut off the material so as to make
the seam, and stitch close to the basting. It will be
seen. that th» hemming can be easily pulled out, and
should not be caught In the stitching at a!L Press
the seam open, and it» will be found to match perfect
ly. The hemming: is what does it, and in a manner
that the most perfect basting will not do. '
It is possible that another shorter length will have
to be matched on in the", back, near" the bottom to make
the cloth .large enough to suit the half of the r-attern,
after whlchMhe*half of- the skirt should be cut out. and!
if this piecing . has , been well. done, the seams a»e abso
lutely invisible'-:^ _i-
To putUhe. middle front. seam together, the seam on
the part already, cut must , be "turned back towards tho
wrong sideband; basted*; down, having the s««irn line,
which has been already marked with a thread, form*
the 'exact* edge of- the fold. Lay this basted edsc on the
uncut/raaterial.fso^the effect Is similar to th \u25a0» . L'lustra
tion, then, proceed exactly aa. ln the case of t v .e piecing
of the breadths. . Ths middle back ' seam should be
matched; in >.the same manner.- The piecing is cone on
the second half of : the , skirt, exactly the same as on
the'flrst half, after: which the first half is laid on the
other part (after. the~ middle -'front seam is finished)
and -the- second j half cut" out by; the first half, being
sure that the 'plaids everywhere, match exact'y. Then
cutout and put* the middle back seam together.