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The San Francisco call. (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, July 04, 1909, Image 14

Image and text provided by University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85066387/1909-07-04/ed-1/seq-14/

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HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER
Tailor Waists for
Late Summer
and
Early Fall
\u25a0— "^HERE Is' probably no more fascinating
U branch of sewing to girls than the mak-
M Ing of shirt waists. The severely tailored;
£ models are decidedly, popular at present
»\u25a0— m— \u25a0> and- are . shown in the shops in a large
®!S^s2^ variety of styles.
aSo^Jy They are seen .with and without
mm "^^ mm^. back and front yokes, with all kinds of
tucked fronts, and while they are all buttoneJ in the
front, there are a good many ways of doing this, also.
Percales, linens, fine lawns, and even handker
chief linens are all used in their. making, but it would
seem as if«*he preference should be given to the
heavier materials.
One new design which Is 7 attracting much atten
tion in this line is copied, in the manner of making,
after a man's shirt. The back Is perfectly plain, with,
a small yoke; the fronts are plaited In a variety
of styles. The length of the shirt from neck to bot
tom is shorter In comparison than a man's shirt, 'and
in this point lies the only difference, the armhole
and sleeves being copied exactly from the mascu
line garment.
The first thing to do will be to thoroughly shrink
the cloth, not forgetting to include In this the
butcher's linen which Is used to interline the cuffs
and neckband.
* *
In cutting the back out, fold the material on the
length of it, so that it Is as wide as the broadest part
of the back. This usually means that it does not
have to be folded down the middle of the width,
and a considerable saving can ,thus be effected. If
there are , stripes one should come in the middle, or
the middle of cloth between the stripes can be used
as the middle. The- backs can be cut, not forgetting
to trace the seam lines. It usually , takes the best
part of one width of cloth for each front, so that
two lengths must be- cut off, and the fronts tucked
and the middle front plait and hem laid before the
cutting out is done.
The fronts lap three-quarters of an inch, so that
the first thing will be to take the left front, lay a
hem down one side three-quarters of an inch wide,
and stitch it. Next lay the pattern on and see where
the tucks are to come.' Mark them off first' on the
paper pattern, and then lay them in the material and
stitch them. On the right front make a hem or box
plait one^nd one-half Inches wide, and when laying
the pattern on put the middle front line down • the
exact middle ,of the plait. ,On the left front '. the
middle of the pattern is^aid where the stitching of
the hem comes. . '
Before using the sleeve pattern, fold it together
down the middle of the width and see if that makes
the edges come together. It has been noticed in some
of the patterns of these one-piece sleeves that If the
seam is put together according to the notches the
sleeves .twist badly," and j where girls have j not much"
knowledge of -sewing, they naturally follow the marks
\ implicitly. This " seeming ' Inaccuracy * probably comes
from cutting such a* large number at one time.
If the seam edges do not. meet all the way when
the pattern is folded together, trim off "on one or
both edges as the case seems to require to- make the
edges exactly match, then cut , the sleeves out, being
sure, that the middle of the sleeve on the length
comes on a" straight line of the cloth/ Where, one is
short of cloth 'the" sleeves can be pieced -down: their
length on the under side. and it > will not show.; :
The cuffs are; cut, /in striped .goods, so that ,on
the, outside the stripes, run around ; and; on the under
side they go- up and down. , or. they can be 1 made to
match, on both upper and under/sides, 1 : going; around
the arm. ' The,- neckband Is cut with ;the, middle back of
the band laid on a lengthwise fold of j the cloth.
The shoulder seams are . stitched,'! together in a
felled seam, making, the,' felled .part three-eighths 'of
an Inch wide, and. stitching it from 'the right >«lde
instead of. felling It down by. hand. 1
The : next step Is ;to finish the; opening -j|. the
sleeves.* A diagram /showing the extension hem- and
the upper; facing appears on > this : page. ). ; -j ;
. The ..extension' hem ' should- measure; about; a half
; inch wide" when ; finished, ; iand "; it ' is ; put . on ; with" the
• narrowest -possible' seam, /then the opposite -side ; is
hemmed over the -seam on the wrong-side. The
lower 'edge of • this- hem /is turned; in/across the^bot-"
torn and ;, overhande'd together, first *. cutting ; \ away .
:the;edge iof -the" sleeve at ? this; point so?that(the seanii
to which -the cuff is ' to be attached will extend below
the hem. - W£&£BBHB^" '
. . ; . : . ./ * \u25a0;;* ; .'\u25a0 . ;/>//.:/:;; />//. : /: ; / ;\u25a0\u25a0 S:/I
- On the opposite, side, of the- opening the "faced
por^on-ls';attachedby stltching/the seam first; on 'the
right* aide /of ;the f sleeve, i and I then^' turning -'in : th«
edges of the facing,^ baste the facing; down in position
on the sleeve'andi'stitch all around. -.Lap; the facing; ln"
position over; the hem, and stitch across v the Jfacing \u25a0
twice, at- a point below the; upper erid.'so that both
facing and hem will'be held securely together and
In^ place. • -*• \u25a0' .*<•-*-• , — , - ! * 4 t \u25a0\u25a0 -\ '
"The sleeves are .sewed ' to/ the. shirt before the
under arm or' sleeve seams are sewed up. Turn * the
edge , of [the armhole of the* shirt under, one-quarter
of an inch the u^der .side,/ notching Ithe "edge
where it is | necessary so that it -will lie ; fiat. } Turn
the .upper 1 edge .of the {sleeve over /to wards, the. right
side one-quarter of an inch, and .then •- baste the sleeve
to the : armhole, iwlih one edge s overlapping : the - other
about one-half /inch. • Stitch on 'both , edges, /which'
holds the sleeve . in ' securely and j makes "a perfect finish.
\u25a0 Close : the seams •of the sleeve and shirt in .one
continuous ; seam, •beginning at • the : lower.; edge of the
sleeve* and continuing to 'the point where' the : under
arm seam Is' terminated/" A felled -seam • makes. t the
best finish, and should match the shoulder seam : - In
width.:'' V'/'/'V^ / \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0"' '. ; ' ' '" ' ' ''\u25a0\u25a0'. .•\u25a0';'
The, bottom, edge, of the. shirt, is finished, with a,
narrow henv and .a/gusset; is set 'pn« where; the under
arm seam terminates to prevent the seam tearlng"open.\
\u25a0 /\u25a0\u25a0 t \u25a0>"'',' **"*,*\u25a0-' j \u25a0''-\u25a0:-\u25a0-.
\u25a0 One. thickness of the butcherjs.linen is. used in the
cuffs and neckband, and in making : the cuffs baste' the.
Interlining to;the ; piece which 'is lto^niake the" upper ".
side of . the cuff. ="• ; : .";.".-''.*\u25a0:.',., -.--\-, , -;, '. ,;;.
.. Make the cuffs rounding or ; square ; at ?the corners
as desired, stitch them^together'around'ithxee- sides, ;
and \u25a0 attach/ to 'the \u25a0 sleeves. - The "•; sleeve" Is '\ gathered 1
from- the faced ;. to \ the ; extension ;henis., the i middlej ookf k
the^width of the' vsleeve';is -pinned^tb r the ; middle" of the?
width of.the.cuff, and the--' faced 'henV to, "'one'; ehd,','and'
.the < sleeve end ' at] the -other {cuff | end— letting/ the : ex-;
tension-hem ; extend 'jbeyond'the;' cuff; entirely.'- The
cuff Is attached I to ; th« ; sleeve 'bo 'that" this seam 'comes
*?.'\u25a0 t! !? e r ° n S ; side,;; then 'the^ wrong . side of ] the cuff .
is turned' in across Mts' lower edge, basted, Jand hemmed .
dOWn. f .:\u25a0;.* ;':'. .;-." '..,/ ; ' _". I "' , r /' : .'f,'''-\' -, '''''"\u25a0."• '\u25a0'•',\u25a0 ' .' ''' '.- . •\u25a0' '
' x *- the. interlining, were to the under'sidef
of. the cuff ; ? the.'. seam where .ij.the^ciiffj Is /attached to
the'; sleeve^ahd.v indeed,-.: the'-, 'cuff
would' show;^en"lt:;wasrstarched s and/lroned/ ;: : .' '.
r v? <I ! he l»e?k]^nd|lsVmade : ;'and \u25a0 attached^to^the^shlrt^:
} n t *?e? c &T °^\' Ta^ n .^ ex ' las;I as ; the 7 ciiff S.V pinning iit - first * to :
the shirt in the middle of the back and then at each
end— doing this before basting at all.
-"\u25a0-;\u25a0 \u25a0\u25a0 - / .' : * : # ; .\u25a0 s \u25a0 '- .
;:.--. The .shirt Is entirely finished now. but the making
of the buttonholes and the putting on of the buttons,
and a word about putting the buttonholes in the
front of the band may prove, of assistance. The
buttonhole In the upper side should be put In first;
this is cut so that the front edge comes to the middle
of the plait. Then lap the band exactly as It should
come together_on the neck, and stick a pin straight
through, putting it in at. the front edge of the
buttonhole Just made. The pinhole on the opposite
end of the band indicates the point for the front end
of. the buttonhole.; It will be seen- that by following
this plan the -shirt will come together at the neck^as'
it should, and not spread there as it is so frequently
seen to do. ' - #
. "When stiff collars are worn with shirt waists
the neckband should measure when finished one-half
inch shorter than the collar;, this allows the collar
to set down .over, the band. When both are made the
same length the collar will not stay down over ; the
band. \ {
It is a pretty finish to this kind of a garment to
embroider a small monogram on the left sleeve about
four Inches above the cuff and in about the middle
uf the width of the upper side.
One of the new shirt waists shown has a plain
bacK and two' wide plaits extending the front length
near the shoulder end. Two shaped- pieces, made of
the doth doubled and stitched together on the wrong
side, are attached to each front. Their shape can
easily be copied from the Illustration, and their
front edges are attached to' the -under side of a plait'
which is laid close to {he middle 'front.
. -The plait is In.favor again " and Is seen
on a majority of these tailored waists, even if there
are other plaits. These are usually" made by cutting
the shoulder seam long enough to allow, for them,
then stitching the' shoulder seam, 'and flaying the plait
afterwards. This plait falls over 'the shoulder/ enough
to. cover the seam where the sleeve is; sewed -In.
Sometimes there are tucks on the back of a waist,
matching those on the front,, and where this is the
case- they should matA perfectly, on > the. shoulder. In,
order/to have .them do this, start those on tne back
the same, distance from the middle as are those on
the -front, .'and; of course, i- match ' the front ones as
regards width, v space. apart, /etc. .Mark the shoulder
seams accurately,"' then turn the- shoulder seam on
the. front in towards the back exactly on the line,' and
baste; down close to the fold. Lay the back of the
waist • out flat, ; pin the -front ." to the back on this
shoulder, so ; that/ the fold- "of -the", front seam, comes
exactly on the " seam on the back at the shoulder, and
pin the;. front ; to i the back at each-end,' first where
the I neck- and • armhole . seams are. \u25a0
. .Then. pin in between, matching the, tucks as* you go.
Hem the - folded edge to the back seam, catching; In
the, extreme edge -of j the fold only; then take out the
basting] which holds the fronts seam down," turn the
waist , to the ; wrong, side, ;baste the seam; together,'
and' stitch onUheseam, line. 7 lt, will be.no trouble to
take therhemming, out, or the ' ba3tlng ; either, and- a
perfectly, ; matched seam v will n be -;' the result. The
hemming. keeps" the ;tucks : from slipping out of place,
as the most^ careful basting will, not do.
.\u25a0' /... v. \u25a0 \u25a0 '"/\u25a0 .• -\u25a0\u25a0'\u25a0-. *: * \ •//'
?;It : seems'a; pity; sometimes to set -the/ color and
shrink the: pretty -wash; materials before making^ them
up, \u25a0 the^new materials -are 'so wonderfully ; ; pretty 'and
apparently > stay ; clean -a much ' longer time -• than ; they
do ; ' after, being "first .laundered. V But .summer clothes
give « one : far " less '<, trouble .in i the" end *'\u25a0 if 'one •- has the
Courage ./ to t thoroughly shrink as' well- as set the
colors r before * makings the < goods' up. ' A".' good <\u25a0 many .
use* salt, or turpentine to .set ."any color they may
happen, to ihave,^ but; while: salt r isall right for many
colors 'it? will i injure" blue. . When salt ' Is used. ;take
threV/gills; of "lt, 4 /dlss^^ boiling
water, put; the clothes In . it,; and ' allow fit' to - remain
until the water. ' is \u25a0 cold. J enough to put the hands In
comfortably. I" The 'material will :be shrunken * and
the color' set.'.;' '\u25a0•% ;\ ' ' ; ;
// Saltpeter; or alum can be. used for blues or greens- .
—one ounce Ito ' twelve ' quarts" of, boillnsV water.' Onej
ounce 'of - sugar j of ,'lead 'dissolved in "\u25a0'.'twelve quarts of
bolling^wa'ter *is^good'; for.' any f color "except^ blue.' "One
tablespborifulv of ; soda to -twelve V> quarts -of ; boiling
water; will ."set Jpiiik or.bJae; \u25a0 one; tables poonful of black
pepper^to{twelyet"quaris '"of } boiling! water,: will 'set any.
of \thejVrays,s buffs. for! tana.*- ';,-... .
- -'A . steagßP j **•\u25ba wide - from .common; hay -Is some
The San Francisco Sunday Can.
of caution, however. Is necessary. If there 7s a ~
.white In the; goods and -too generous a qu^nity 7t
; the oxgrall is used Mt wIU ma ke the whlt^a &, °
yellow. Another .thing., it. Is difficult, as a'rofa'S
:Kr«n?" freah ' aDd J' *f tl *°i bC Wd
v - Jn. material* where there la no necessity for set
.tins the color, but shrinking .the clbth seems i LI
sary ; put ,lt In .boning water 'and allow it To remain
.until the water Ucold/'then 'allow it to partly Jl
,and iron while it Isfstlll damp enough to prVsJ ' ST
fectly; smooth. This ' pressing applief as weiHo^Z
•materials in which the colors have been set. ®

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