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HINTS FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER How to Make One Pat ter n Do for Many Blouses. ANNA R. MOREHOUSE o LEARN* to make one's shirt waists, lin- T eerie or other style blouses seems to ba the ambition of girls and women T who care for sewing. If It were necessary to imb3mm— i buy a new pattern for every blouse one i~~^|2S?!i^ Intended making, there would soon be a i.H^V^'V^ large collection of patterns which prob m^'^mmmm^ ably would only be used once each. In stead of this It Is far better to have a plain waist pat tern made to measure, including the regulation shirt sleeve and leg o' mutton sleeve pattern; and if the bodices or blouses, which now are a part of every cos tume, are to be attempted it will be necessary to have a pattern of a tigtot fitting waist lining, which will In clude a pattern of a , two piece sleeve. With these foundation patterns, it should be possible to copy any waist or bodice one desires. Waists attached to skirts as part of the costume are generally made over tight fitting, boned linings. Then there are always the strictly tailored shirt waists, end also the lingerie waists. If the latter are worn in cold weather It Is a good idea to make two slip waists, reaching to the waist line only, and the lower edge should be turned up In a three-quarters of an inch hem and through this a linen tape should be run, pull inp it up to fit the waist when on. This can be -pulled out straight to wash and iron, and if these slips are made of lawn they will be found satisfactory and will not be as expensive as silk ones, and besides, the silk with frequent laundering turns yellow. . / The pretty blouse made of plafS gingham can be taken for an illustration of how to use a perfectly plain pattern. In this blouse the back matches the front. as far as the shoulder plaits are concerned. The first thing to do will be to fold over an end of the cloth so as to get a true bias, cut on the fold, and then fold the mate rial together co that the cut edge comes together. The fold made will be a bias one, and before cutting off a waist length, it will be necessary to see if the fold just made will bring the desired part of the plaid, for the middle of the back of the waist, as this is the piece we are to cut off, first. If the plaid comes right the length can be cut off. If not, a fold must be made parallel with the first, making the right part of the plaid come In the middle, which Is represented* by the fold. Lay the pattern for the back on the cloth Just cut, pinning the middle back of the pattern to the; fold in the doth. Then fold the pattern back out of the way ' and lay two plaits In the doth, making each one Inch wide, and making the outside one come to the edge of ** the shoulder. The plaits are laid the entire length of the back. After the plaits are laid on one side they are laid on the other, to match exactly. If the" material is not wide enough to. make the back, the cloth will have to be pieceJL ' Sometimes this piecing is done by overhanding two selvedge, edges together, and sometimes by turning back both edges the width of seams, and overhanding th? folded edges. It entirely depends on the plaid to be matched, f f or this piecing must be vlone so that it is in visible. The pieced parts should then be pressed flat and the pattern laid in place, and the back cut out. If the pattern is on? on which* no seams are allowed— and this is by far the -best way to have It — the outline of the back Is clearly traced or marked/ with French chalk, and one-quarter inch is aUbwed around > the neck and armhole lines for seams,* and one Inch is allowed on the s-houlder and underarm Beams. This blouse opens down the middle of the front, and the first thing will be to cut off a length on the bias for each front, and having the same part of the plaid come/in the middle of the, front as Is in tha back. \u25a0 Be fore laying on the pattern for the front tha middle of Ihe* front is turned back, and the folded edge matches Blouses for Fall Wear. '\u25a0' »ITH t&e approach of- winter: woolen blouses lAT are being worn toy the «rlrl who feels the cold. jfjf Even when one 'Is not chilly -It Is much . better mmmmmmmt style to wear sof t , wool blouses as ne,ar the !*S2§ tOne Of sklrt as possible. For morning use .» i J these may be tailored shirtwaists of wash flannel made In severe style and , worn with a stock or linen collar and Jabot.. For Informal afternoon wear around home blouses of albatross or challi are liked, made simply to 'open in the back, with only a fe*w tucks at each side for.full ness. The plain space thus left is filled in with';em broidery. while collar. and ( cuffs are h worked to : match.' Any gracerul floral Jesign- should be;' chosefl.. One with one or two large flowers on the bust llne^ combined with foliage conventionalized In curves and scrolls that narrow to the waist gives an air .of - elaboration 7 with little work. Wreaths of small flowers joined by ,-JSo wknots '. are also good, care oeing taken tot to have them too heavy, but; light and airy.j ! This /embroidery ; «ay.- "either : .be done in self tones, ; or where the - blouse ' is - dark : and needs brightening pale pinks, j yellows, .violet .arid pother pastel shades can be used; combined '.with/ soft i greens for the foliage. Sometimes /where the blouse.is\aVdif ferent color, from the suir . It -Is harmonized C by>ein broWerlng'ln. the colors of the suit. ,'v * ' The kind of stitches to use depends upon the de sign and tn« . time ; one \ wishes to * spend f , on ; It.". - Flo w^; era may either be done. In /Kensington or/ longhand short stitch; ; " scrolls , should be done ; in , satin stitch arid ribbon can either be outlined and seeded cart* be worked over and over. \u0084''..'. the middle of the back. One inch in from this fold a half, inch tuck^is laid the length of* the" front- and then there are two inch wide tucks 'laid at the shoulder edges. Just as there^wero; on; the back. , After these tucks have/been 1 laid, the 'pattern for the front is laid on and pinned to the material down the front edge. Before pinning It anywhere 'else,; the material should be laid so that the shoulder' tucks will come a little towards the front, and riot run, too straight down. Then the pattern jls pinned in place", the same seam allowances made as on the back and the "cutting out done. The tucks on both front and back are. pulled out . flat . at the jj shoulder and j the seam sewed j together exactly on the . trace J lines. After \u25a0 the ' seams ' are \u25a0 fin ished the tucks are laid In . position - again and stitched from one end to '"the "other. \u25a0 : \u25a0 . » '- \u25a0 The underarm seams are* * finished , and ,. the '\u25a0 fronts faced down the middle, unless the turning Is wide enough for the edge of - the cloth to - extend - under the edge of the half inch tuck, so that the hemming "down will not show. A fly or extension piece should be put down the left front and hooks andeyes are used for the fastening. Fold the fronts together, right lslde out, and chalk off the line for the cut, out ; part of the neck. The blouse is not cut out at all across tha back, and In the front tJie opening extends down from - the neck Una three lnch.es.' The line Is a « straight one, from the ; shoulder seams to the three Inch point. It will b« a good time to cut the Uttleturnover collar pattern while the waist is pinned together. ]'. - '"- 4 Fold a piece of paper so that the fold Is a bias one and pin this bias, fold to the fold- which marks the middle back line of the blouse? r Lay the neck 'of the blouse out flat on the paper, letting it curve as 1» neces sary so as to 'lie smoothly at the neck line, and cut the paper out, following the Una \u25a0of the , neck. %'% ' Unpin ;' the blouse from the paper?. and measure down from the neck line in: the middle of -the back, two Inches, and' make a dot. Make a straight Una from this point to the middle of the front. V - This collar and the narrow turnback cuffs are made of eringham in a plain color, 'matchirig 'one* of .the colors In the I plaid. . When > cutting th« collar out, tha ' middle back of the pattern is laid on a bias fold of the material and a quarter inch seam, must be- allowed on all sides. There is an inside section to the collar, also," arid the in side and outsfJe sections -are; stitched :, together ; o^. the lower edge, : then .the collar, is turried right side out, the middle back of the upper elde of the collar is pinned to the middle back of ; the' blouse, so that the seam comes on the right side of the blouse and the collar is pinned at each end, to the . ends of the blouse at the neck, . then, holding the blouse next to you, baste the oollar to the . blouse. : ' Stitch this ; 6eam, take* -,tha " bactings v out,' ; and turn the; seam' towards 'the -collar, and' hem 'the under side of the/collar over _the seam. \u25a0\u25a0 , ''' ;. Small bone button molds , are covered with the olotb Pity the Overdressed Child in Her "Tantrums" Mtmn CL.EVER trained nurse' -said; one ; time, I i^ " 1 apropos of "babie*. "The comfortable baby I JkiJri I is \u25a0 the good toby." ''And the more I thought I'^v ;'^L' : - 1 ' a bout it the mora it ; seemed to me .that w— wndS if. this was true about babies, was it |Sm&4lX&tk>l not also true In some degrees about older yj"sC£W2| children? \u25a0>\u25a0[/;.\u25a0 ? ?: >,*/ : . -'\u25a0;:'\u25a0-"./ - ';>\u25a0;.;\u25a0\u25a0 8B "*^""' I ' I<^ *?n? n • : goo j . ' ; many^ /\u25a0 homes '.the/ old standard \u25a0;\u25a0 prevails of ' having : fine ' company.; clothes for the ' children. The : little" girl's jhalr> must • be curled or crimped /by tight {plsitirig, the^ ordinary*- play/ frock }6t gingham or j percale • is"; discarded i and" fine j lawn : and fyal Insertions must ,;be' . put /oni /while; a wide briirimed' hat, o vertrimmed 'arid . heavy,' replaces^ the plain "play i bonnet Consequently,: J Miss' Six ; Year Old ils >overawed/J by; her "clothes /and ; the frequent ] and "i sharp * admonitions to keep% them clean;^and ; atHast,' 1 ., if ''shells Ia; child Vof strength of "character.she"s imply i ." goes \u25a0 on \ a rampage " and causes \u25a0 her mother^ to why.? ih \ thetwdrld I her children ; behave -so ' badly '^ whenever '^s-ba takes-- them visiting/* .;;>.-' v ;;..;'.,;\u25a0-\u25a0\u25a0 ' /.-;">\u25a0. ; : : ; j/-:-' > ; ' Ot ' course, ; there are lots" of . sensible mothers i who believe • that/ plain : clothes t for children f mean ?. happiness t6 the children and a "great saying *of "expense -and" trou ble I tby themselves. "^The j readyi made clothes one t sees *In the -stores, ;; too",';; have done a great deal i to t help f on }. the era \u25a0of simplicity ";\u25a0 In dress, : and^thie ; women's magazines ' have .[advocated > consistently 'S that . ttiece .be less "fussy "clothes'that there /might • also'' be"': less fussed at \u25a0". \u25a0_ '/y \u25a0' \ - : " ;\u25a0 \u25a0 ; i_. - ' ' , ;-. • ' . '''"\u25a0 \u25a0 \u25a0<\u0084 .\u25a0';'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0- "\ \u25a0 '. |||||f.' *' * ; .'> ;-\u25a0 \u25a0f \ \u25a0•,-"" '•;"-. ;"\u25a0 Of course, ayery,£ brice In / a while Iwe \ see* int sorije shopi window" any exqulslta! little ; hand 5 made dress, } ail embroidery; ,i*and > real ": lace. ''\u25a0\u25a0 and -of \a \ tax' ture jfarid f elabo^ fateness^tfcat<a fairy mlsht'erivy-it.: The^bbllglng^salefl womarij will ; tell ; us; that i this '• dress ( is \ just « like" VneUhat ,was?rriade/for ;a /certairi"^ little > royal {princess? arid "that It cost hundreds Tof zflbllafs.' .Arid) we YgbTawa'yf feeling ] that - it ; is ; hardly/ fair" that , our' own --' littla? Ethel } arid 'matching j the collar arid .trim i, the I fronts :of . the prettily./. The^plain. "sleeves ; are" cut ; so that the f old'of the. sleeve ls/qn.the bias:; .They are made three-quarters length and are finished, with la." narrow cuff. A chemisette ! : and * half \u25a0 sleeves * of " batiste or ; tucked Yl net,' 3 whioh are made detachable, finish the blouse. " "-\u25a0;-: ....:. :; \u0084 .//*\u25a0;.,;\u2666.;....../.;:;//;,-/./- V * This Is. put into ':'a "narrow bani'at the waist' and a' three^inchVwide"circxUarp6pluin]ls' attached. - Jane, who, to besure, are' as '/sweet'aa ' : any* littla royal , . prlpcesses In the world, Should have to" wear gingham , \u25a0\u25a0;"• pinafores.",-; ; - : -'.''\u25a0.\u25a0'" .'.:,\u25a0 ".• .:•. '\u25a0':._ .-.- : \ :'\u25a0';?. :,';V ; ; \u25a0.;; But t if we ; only knew , it, •', there are few royal . chll . dren who are 'permitted tto wear; fln,e clothes are grown : up.- And our littlajEthal'a »ndf Jane's pina forealarerquite likel^i to be"made'bylthejsame pattern \u25a0--. as those commonly /worn ) in 'i the ; royal nursery. < \u25a0 \u25a0 '?? \u25a0-/There; is bneYpracticali:little|"mother /of nriy, ac quaintance -.who /adopts a ; color»scheme 'f or "ea^h.of • her - ; small/ daughters and c sticks to r it t with the: most'satis ;/ ff * cto r y - results .'/ ; For Instance, Barbara /this /summer //has 'nothing^ /but rocks' J of ecru^ and /tan 'and; whit©. •. There have _beeri ; little /white and i'ecru* checked ; dresses" and \u25a0 little - brownish^ linen •dresses, arid r tan /arid .white ;. /-striped/dresses,/all to" beYworn ; with; one \.big v ecru; hat* ; ;; \wlthTa : brown i : bow, arid; a^ little ..tan; clbth/coaL/i - ' v The /colorings : of ; these just , suit , Barbara's brown ; .T.jeyes {and; hair.' and pink > cheeks/ '% Mary,\her" ; littla sister,' on i tha other .- hand, " ls 'a*- decided . blonde,/; arid ' for*- her :.'\u25a0 : * there has . beeri^ P ribthirig" but I blue. ' j Blue \u25a0 ginghams, blua ?;' . arid white' percales,' blue madras,, a wide /white hat vwith • ;>a ; navy. blue" bow, arid'a-tdue ierge;coat.'. * v ' - ' ''*•;. '*'*,;,*' ' ; --'- " "'.'\u25a0\u25a0 \u25a0 ':-. : "? ' ;; :'. In the^wlnter Barbara/wiir.be -dressed /inj brown, and" - tan < again, i and \u25a0' her; coat will ) be/ brown Tcqrdurby:-/ Mary'" t .yi l1 ' weiar, hlue,\ arid | her| coat i will'" be s riavy^blueVcordur -p /> roy./ By;; having " two } color schemes , : and ; s ticking*. VtoV t0 i th ® m v; resolutely, V' the > mother/ has • no ln ( < buying^ her/childreri's {clothes and \u25a0' In sorting s them but as* -they come > tromV the) laundry.';*- There \u25a0 Is • such a *va-/ \u25a0\u25a0*<, rietyj'qf ! ohecks.VdoU^ strlpesi and Iplaids^that f there" Is ; \u25a0 irio ', hint of ' monotony' In 'either Tcblor^TCheriie f raiuS; : the. vrchlldreri^theinselves^do Z obt-' grow 3 tired^ of I it; ";/ '/ '\u0084 \u25a0:\u25a0'... i .;.'--. Th«-^dreiisra^aira^ali^niadey in J/the/ simplest /styles,-' ; :/j mqstly|: wlth^orie £ pieced effects, - arid ; the V. trlniiriirig ils \u25a0_\u25a0? \u25a0 \u25a0-. never elaborate/ are'v bands. of | white cotton .braid :. i : * on ; some of .Cthe?dreßse~s,taTrid*aJJtew|<^broideVedf dots on ; ? > some {of | tb^aTotherifJ Thefe T is no lace : oriV ariy ; of ' them," \u25a0 ! ,In copying blouses where there are 'fancy, yokes.-; or ;or Intricate lines ; of Insertion • the pattern qr de- . sign should >be marked lotl 'on f the '\u25a0, paper .pattern in* the lightest : kind of ' pencil marks./ which/ can / /easily " be changed or rubbed out altogether,' and the, pattern Aeld . up to you to sea if 'the Unec -made ' arf correct ":\u25a0 When they are satisfactory the • waist . lengths are cut or torn . off, and ' if .there is any tucking this Is done -first . All the ; while, the . pattern : must be referred to r to see that th« " tucks are ;| coming* where" f; they i should/.; aid \u25a0\u2666^hati; the t proper spaces are being left for the lace orVenibroldery. Then .the / Insertion is basted , In ' place or the stamping done : for the embroidery desicn. l /• . . • --, If a .waist is. to be hooked together, -the^ pattern is laid on >' the folded edge of the ' back :. or fronts,' as ', tha " case may be, and nothing allowed beyond. ; If ' the waist; is to' be buttoned the hems are. laid and finished 'i and the/ ledger of; the pattern Is laid 'down the middle of the width ' .of the •hems./ y- ~ , \u25a0 / ' ' : v . If tucks, box plaits, or trimming are to be matched on the shoulders- the decorations should match on" both back and ' front. For instance, if the blouse .is to have clusters of . tucks they -should, Btart from the middle 6n both back and | front," and be worked out towards each shoulder. The shoulder seams can be '". matched . then. Af ter^ the tucking is done on the blouse , the . seam > Unes . most 'clearly : marked, and the pieces : cut out,/, turn the shoulder seam on each back so that the fold comes ex actly on the seam line and the seam turns towards the wrong side of the blouse.- • Baste the seam back so it will stay* In place, then lay the t «rat -of -the" blouse' on , a cutting board or table and /pin' the, basted back shoulder .seam of the back to the shoulder seam on the front which, is laid but flat, 1 each end first arid ; then through' the .' rest^of^the lengths, so that the tucks match. . Hem .the back to the front on the : shoulder seam, catching In the edge of the fold only. Then "-i take but ; the ; basting which > holds' 'the seam back, turn the blouse to the wrong side, .and baste and stitch " together. ' Then take the hemming stitches out. . \u25a0It will be^foimd that the seam matches perfectly^ f , The work for the_ outside of a tight ; fitting .waist', is ' the same, thef lining , first . being put * together : and fitted perfectly.; and' In many cases 'the seams, with the' ex ception of. the shoulder and underarms being 4 entirely finished, 1 / bones" and all. Then the outside Is . made and laid in "position over the lining and put together. ;with the lining at the «two . unfinished seams. •V""*vin* puttln? /collars or ; collar ; bands, on "a waist, they should always be i pinned to the : garment ' first ;' In the * middle and then at each end. In basting on the waist should bo held next to you. " If the neck . measures - too little or too much the alteration Is made on the shoul ders, an equal amount being, let out or \u25a0 taken up, as the case may be, on both' seams. It is never wiser to cut out th« ; neck "c of a - waist unless absolutely sure , It tis the and | there \u25a0 ls\ nQt " a ruffle .in •- the entire ; wardrobe. > * The consequence is that Barbara and Mary, are well dressoJ looking-. Just ;' because of "the^unlty^of /color effect 'and thY simplicity: of' line.' : The mothers; of/ -other little girls wonder f. how ,/ Barbara's ; and ;•\u25a0 Mary's /mother ?.' can *: afford to Vdressi- them-' «o expensively, , when': in;/ reality r they spend • twice \u25a0 as , much*; on their own .children's cloth es. < .'\u25a0."./ Another thing "that" this: wise i little 'mother believes in . Is - buying j a good many frocks/, making: them ; as [ slm^ ply/fas/pqs]Blb^ a^an^vUßing;Tthy-|ieMV^expenslya''rmate rlais, r and//discarding; .every /one of '.them =at the end •of the ."; season. * She ; knows , , that \ a . \u25a0 rapidly growing child looks iat -her- worst < in ; a dress that ,1s ; too short or too tighV^butjatfth^ She/throws these? away ,'?br,' t rather, passes them on to leas'. fortunate children, with a liberal hand. \u25a0•'\u25a0' ..j/;' Barbara j and .-. Mary, have no .elaborate lingerie hats. ,They i never*;, wear j: anything which 'is itob Vobd :to": to" run and? Juinp^and^playVajididigilnlthe sand|in: IThe, con- * sequence^ is itbeyi keep a /prettyj average level of good.be\u25a0 \u25a0 havlor/. arid lapsed lt'?lsn't\ because 'they were so dressed up that they had to forget their misery in ; email naughtinesses. '. '\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 '/•/-.' ""' V * '-\u25a0•\u25a0":'\u25a0 ' '"; £ -V //.Toesei? poor j little . up '„• youngsters i who 'are done {up ; in silk > and : lace and i feathered t hats * with < strict injunctiona?of Jthis J sort: -'", Be .careful,^ you'll : sqlll your dress,? X". bon't^f jump \u25a0; abputi'/you'll >khock^ your \ hat," ". .Walk :''carefully,> t 6r v -y6u'li get = your white shoes dirty;'' — -'what •\u25a0 a 'life: they,; live'! ;; ; *", "-„ :.."-.' \u25a0_" \u25a0''"'• : : '" .-' • '\u25a0;» Do,-; Mrs. *;} Mother.'', leave the ; children free . from the curse of , : final clothes /they 'get *to an f age when fineries - and i the ] furbelows ; mean ; something , pleasurable to '\u25a0 them, i.- Dress ;, them* as* prettily, but * and as comfortably : "as you ; can. c. and i, th*en % contrast \u25a0their ?be haylor.A xvi th 'J th.V^mlsaia.ble •' bedizened v fl te i; across the stre^t^who^staresV'at^them' so , wistfully 'and 1 long's to Join ' their \u25a0 = good | times,vbut^ cannot ' for fear of '.what will happen 'to>her7frllls:~:. ; v " \u25a0\u25a0"--' -''f ... -: '.; -:>\u25a0 -The VSarrf i^anciscd fSunday Call. only* remedy. There is much more danstr of haviajf the neck line too low. It Is better to stretch the neck of the. waist around the front where the curve Is tha greatest first and see If that is not all that Is necessary. In a good pattern it will never be necessary to do any clipping; and more "waists have been hopelessly rurned by. too/much clipping around the neck and arm holes than in almost any other way. . • One should be sura what the right neck and armhol* sizes are and after. the. waist has been. put together to measure . it : In these places, and If tha places . measox* mpre than they- should to take In the shoulder seams for the neck and .the shoulder' or* underarm seams or both If necessary for the remedying of the armholes. remeasure to see that they are correct and try on. If the neck measure's too little the remedy is known, and If the armholes are' too small .first try a littla stretching, in the front where the curve Is tha greatest, towards the underarm. If the measure is still lacking take a pencil . or chalk.; and. beginning up near the shoulder; on the' front, draw a new seam line, tavir, r off • the ; most around tha curved parti and run this mw line gradually Into. the old one again. JV \u25a0 '\u25a0 ;R«meaaur« the armhole. . measuring, of course, on the new line, and It- will not be difficult to g«t it the right size. ;.-' The ; work' has -been done so far wlthont any possibility of having injured 'the waist, and. when the size is right, the armhola can be trimmed out. leav ing , tha proper \u25a0 seam ' allowance btitstde of ; th« pencil marking. G arniture for Net Blouse. oM net blouse In ecru or white that has A seen Its 'best days can. take on a new lease of life by means of three handkerchiefs formed * \u25a0\u25a0»< Into an over garniture somethlag on the order jWjKR of the old time jumper. All sorts of handkurr- BSfiSJchlaf a l* are used "for these effects; the say cot ton, bandana, those wlth_ half Persian effects that are often made .up' into , dressing sacques lor . printed sißc mufflers. The ' one ; requisite/ 13 slie. They must be large., and they shonrldhave colored borders. - .. A good! looking .'garniture ,'can be. made from three handkerchiefs. ' one for/ the back and. one. for each slda of Ithe;frbntr.,..The back ; ls arranged ki a. graduated In verted box plalt^reachlng from the Tshoulders and fall- Ing in - two poirfls over* the ' belt: Th« top is rounded slightly and, edged vwith' a line of the border^ showing a shallow yoke* of blousa above."J * :-•\u25a0:'' The-, front^ are? "arranged: In -surplice effect and are brought 'diagonally..' from*: the* ; shoulder ; Una to ba - gath ered : Into". the belt ;ln front. ; .The upper corner" la tarnad back^ to"; form.; lorig« re v'era- that cross tha bust line. The "handkerchief ; : Is 'stitched back of, this 'raver* in a diagonal .tuck an Inch "wide; that reaches from the \u25a0.shoul der, to v belf. • This tuck 'turns 'away from" - the front and is stitched so ; as ; to^ leave the 'opposite corner of .handker chief'in a second 'loose j reyer I underneath. This rever Is - narrow • at . the - shoulder and » broad ' as It approaches the fwalst. ,whlle f rontf revers"; reverse this ; shape. : Th* corners ;that are cut "off are made into pointed tabs and putu t over* the * shoulders *' to cover « the Joining of j. the^hajidkerchiefs.; /.The 'back is v formed with tha handkerchief- used Ion ; the T square; the .fronts, by, holding* It -from "corner "• to V corner v from shoulder, to- middle'of '-:J: J