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THE KANSAS CITY JOURNAL SUNDAY, DECEMBER 10, 1899.
Cepytfctt.iaB.byS.M.Bildii.
PARIS. Nov. 27. Ever since the object of
"'" cvojvea irom tno primeval cesire
to. cover the body and shield It from the
Inclemencies of the atmospheric tempera
ture, io a desire to beautify and become, as
It were, a frame to befit that chef
doeuvres of nature the human body, we
have a soft spot In our hearts for those
Jlfiwjng draperies which enhanced the
?uty of our first civilized ancestors. The
old Greeks knew well the art of dress and
their maids and matrons realized the en
chantment which lurks In forms sheathed
in classic folds, and unimpeded by tight
dress. True, stays were in their Infancy
even then; but they were worn as a sup
port only, until, many centuries latr,
French fashion developed them into iron
Cad armors compressing the soft- tissues
2fih?.r.?ma,e tooy lnt0 a -shape which de
fied all lines of beauty, and it was -not until
a great moral and physical revolution clari
fied the social atmosphere that a "Renais-i
sance' in dress was brought about. In
modern times, when fickle Fashion changes
at least every half year, the tea gown
alne Is unaffected by fleeting modes, and
-while adapting Itself to Us own particular
needs-ami to -the-personal taste of the
fFr- lt reflects the antique draperies
and becomes- the "Piece de resistance" In
the wardrobe of the-woman of leisure and
Xashlon.
.Robert, who excels in creations of this
,sort.'Is the author of the artistic gown
dfplctedr here. He has not left Fashion
entirely out of the question, but mikes
use of the refined- and elegant combina-
SOME CHRISTMAS GIFTS.
'from the New Tork Herald.
The ever-recurring question of what to
buy for Christmas Is to th fnrs ne-nln ami
occupies the waking and sleeping woman
In the land. The shnn nr iirritnH with
good things, but the variety Is so great
j4ii.ii. 11 itruves one alter a prolonged inspec
tion of the many novelties offered for sale
more puzzled than berore starting out.
.It Is the wise woman who does all her
.Christmas shopping early, before the ter
rible rush and crush of the last few days
ore on, but it is the economical woman
who waits until a few da) s berore Christ
mas and picks up the many bargains which
the shupkeepers then offer in order to
avoid the leaving over of a large stock of
Christmas goods.
The-newest rad In tambour work Is done
on a very coarse meshed canvas with a
new material called "prisma." This is a
heavy cord-like linen yarn, which works
In very effectively in the large mesh of the
canvas. Though it is thick and fills in
quickly, it lakes a considerable quantlty
but It repays one for one's trouble after it
Is finished. Pillows, chair seats and pan
els are shown In this new "prisma," and
It has "caught on," as boys say. very
thoroughly. - '
Then there Is a new ribbon embroidery,
which Is dainty in the extreme. It is done
with the very finest, narrowest ribbon im
aginable, in Dresden and Watteau color
ings, and Is truly a most acceptable gift.
The "cakewalk" and "coon town" pil
lows arc the latest novelty, and when they
are outllni-d In silks to match tho colarings
of the design, and edged with a two or
three toned satin ribbon ruffle In colors
to match the body or the pillow, ther make
a most striking cushion, which seems lust
about the very thing for the divan in a
mans den. where everything needs to be
substantial enough for hard wear.
Some pretty samples are shown for hold
ing shaving paper. These are tiny disks of
sheer linen embroidered In forget-me-nots,
violets, tiny wild roses, as suits tha fancy
of the embroiderer and the color scheme or
her sweetheart's den. These linen disks
are mounted on a larger disk or cardboard
Covered with a contrasting shade of satin
and finished at the top by full looped bows
of two shades of very narrow satin ribbon
The same ribbon Is twisted for the hang
ing loop.
Every woman knows what an eyesore a
curling Iron Is and how hard it is to get
the ever-present thing out of sight. Well,
some Ingenious person has devised a re
ceptacle for holding the curling iron, which
Is really very attractive and ornamental.
It Is shaped somewhat like an elongated
shield, made of linen and embroidered In
some floral design. At the two upper
points are full looped bows or narrow rib
bon, and a twisted handle of ribbon" by
which It hangs on the wall.
On the back Is a pocket. Into which the
Iron is slipped out of sight, and when
hung on the wall In close proximity to
the dretter and sidelights the clumsy curl
ing Iron becomes quite a sightly affair.
Apparently this Is a season ot photo
frames and screens, for the shops are full
of them. Tha pretty gilt Empire frames
till hold their own, and there Is little
change In them from last year. They are
showing some new designs la mahogany-
r r - y r
Lace Tea Gown
designed by Robert of Paris
Hon of- white and black, which Is second
In, popularity, only to the equally striking
contrast of black and white. The prin
cesse foundation of white taffeta fits the
JSSf snHsly ,ond closes at the back with
white silk lining. This lining is entirely
covered with white moussellne de sole
pressed Into tiny pleats and having a crepe
li At tne front ot the bodice the
pleated moussellne Is cut out and bordered
liv.a narrow trimming, of black sable.
WJlloh,a.cce,ntuate.s, the uaI"tr yoke and
73.tu,cked y,hIte. tuIle' with Its inser
t ons of flne white 'lace. As the founda
;: 0?. l3. decollete, this fine yoke proves?
very flattering to the neck. The high stock
collar Is boned at the back and consists
of unllned black tulle finished with a tiny
"laB ? v.hlte "uIn. which ends in a
iiiZ-"T ..:. ""s.uacK. ine sleeves
also are uhllned and show the arm be-
H,i .' "'" T8"'01 lne "ne white guipure
which constitutes the lower part and the
lone T)otntnd 'rnfro f-.nir. .1 .t. i" Jc
TfhwM,-UA50yed."hsniallpuff
v. "" w.c-i wmitr laneta anu the
connection with the lower sleeve Is hid
den by a band of crimped black tulle fin
ishing with n mrafnl ,.,..,.. t"
the same material. The most attractive
part of this beautiful toilette, however. Is
"A "." ,., -:u,iso;e 01 nne wnite gul-
5.V,4, with seatnj. which are Joined 'so art-
jU.., iiul uuiraco is eviuent and Is made
Independent of the under dress and enfolds
- ...... ..aH.. ,,. uid uavK ana siaes
while reaching, to the hem of the moder-
Plain, straight lines, relieved by a delicate
tracery of gold beading. "icaie
nfi! "" the sold frames for Ivory
painted miniatures or pictures of friends
and sweethearts are very heavily scrolled,
in large openwork patterns. Thev are
. , , ihucur in a green arawimr
ThTJfJ,, tablcs- cabinets and mantel
Tilf J??.'i?Utr rouna Bold frames are stud-
?iUh rhinestones, emeralds, rubles and
f aPp.U. ,s'. ana are more generally used for
r,L . !?ture ejections which are all the
-For TT1V InAtr'o rtw.r.l
unrna AV....iii. . "'"'" case are snown
boBf ard TVea
womenkth".r0spmeci,al,rrtraltS ' b8aUllfU,
diSSHiF" ?-?le '". free or four
S&&SJ&& Ml
.ui,Ht i,lic lur ule caoinei.
Silver Is tout a rait hors de combat as far
as the smart woman's bureau is concerned
UnniLV'f nVest and most fashionable fad
to-day Is ebony. It does not look as though
M.3f w nad wou d have the enormous ron
which silver enjoyed, but toilet sets in
S52?nrel,efa J?' sI,ver US m nar
row sliver beading around the edge are
ii . ""; "w,i men is snown in a
I'i!' !?.!? I"Un a frame
hV, i"Si. Z.f tZ'n?w" 'le
---, ------- .,t, vwiii.ii upens oy a spring
.and, discloses the frame. Some of thesf
?iv.,it n D05es are enameled In the
favorite flower or the man Tor whom they
are.intended. The flowers are on a mother
of pearl ground, and the deep purple of
!.0lftV,vnlc! scems t0 be he favorhl
15Lsn' i3 brouSht out most effectlvelv.
T.e.M?i ,hls. yeor are a!most perfect.
W e said this last year, and we say It every
year. We will doubtless say it next year
too. The dollies of to-day are truly very
SSi ,aul",n their way. and their trouS
seaux. layettes, trunks. Jewelry and toilet
sets are as complete in'tneir way as those
of other little mothers.
vJr1mfhanIcal loys. lhcre ,s "ttle that Is
S SSfi.K.Sf'LXJ?- ?.. o. the
... .1 . . uu ex-jiainetl. tncy
ad P.r5veu MnsaJaWe- There are still some
wiVh inS nn,lmnIisl,0,v'nv A ,lan"y tunout,
with large sized horses, boasting of a reai
KBmpC?,ai-f.niaJ1i!i'en ln tandem, will make
some lucky lad happy. The toy Is what Is
known as a cabaret. It is large enough to
seat a fair sized child comfortably, and Is
s? a"anBed that It can be pushed from be
hind by another child, so that the driver
or the tandem can enjoy all the pleasures
of a drive as he proudly handles the reins!
The hobby horses are so lifelike as to
be almost real. A stall Is shown which is
ianv.a" ,JC,rfecL.In "8 appointments as
papas stable. There arc the harness nnd
SHE? ltnhwrhlch " ?a" " Just win" ?e"a1
stall. There are blankets and covers, and
real Jiable W' a"d a" ,he comforts o a
i T.i. -" " "". iuui nu ice wagons.
St!?,i! es? wagons are loaded with coal and
ilC if ice' and mV.M can play at be
ing the Iceman to his heart's content. And
...- -v.. .i. i. icai coai -is ot sucn sub
tarn that It will not toll tha hands, and
-t -2
(Roatir Ptxti
ate train. A band of black sable wider
than that on the corsage borders the lace
overdress and a most artistic finish Is ac
complished by the folded belt ot crimped
black silk tulle and the large butterfly
bows which are placed on the fur at the
left side of the bodice. Below the knees
a scarr of the same black tulle runs diago
nally across from one side of the overdress
to the other and ends at the left side with
a large bow and long ends. The coiffure
Is adorned with a black tulle bow similar
to those on the gown and surrounding an
agraffe of diamonds.
In spltp of the clamor about the tight
skirt being pnssc, we encounter It every
where In new variations, or which the
boxpleat at the back Is one. In fact, the
clinging skirt is so closely molded to the
form that the world yet doubts whether
to condemn It as Indecent or admire it
bh artltlc. But whether condemned or
admired, it remain fashion's choice and Is
therefore worn. Even draperies have not
realized the expected favor; tunics and
overdresses are worn, but the newest street
skirts of cloth are tight and long and self
trimmed, stltchlngs and strappings being
favorite modes. The latest variety of the
genus "tailor-made" is cut circular and
fitted closely to the figure by means or a
series of darts, which extend from the
hip line to below the knees, thus allow
ing a piain ugnt yoke and a plain flare.
The darts are concealed by means of strap
pings of the same cloth.
FELIX FOURNERY.
the Ice will not melt. Many a mamma will
wish that her icebox could be filled with
this same ice, and perhaps the Iceman
Would not grow so rich.
There are automobiles and real engines,
and freight cars, with freight Inside, and
yucii,cl wis, wim jjitrjuj- oi passengers,
and nil kinds' of Iron vehicles almost as
complete as the real ones.
There Is a new toy shown this year which
Is called "the climber." It is an engine
which can run up a hill eighty feet high,
and obtains its motive power by means of
a heavy weight on an axle bearing on the
running gear or the engine. The power is
generated by moving the engine torward in
order to get the heavy weight revolving.
It is claimed that it will run for a block on
level ground.
Then there Is an electric railroad, which
can be made as perfect and as expensive as
the purchaser desires. The stations and
cars can be lighted by electricity; there
are three sizes of tracks and three sets of
trains. They are as perfect ln their model
ing as the trains which carry passengers.
There are a tumbling bear who turns In
numerable somersaults, ahd a seal which
upon being wound up, runs around and Is
actually lifelike. There are dancing bears
and rabbits and alligators, and a whole
menagerie of'animated beasts to amuse the
younger children.
Some models or the white squadron are
shown which deserve special mention.
There are models or the Brooklyn bridge,
and by winding a windlass in the power
house the cars are started rrom each end
?,1 iS;,S2?""3?i. A-disPiarJ"S "won
i i . V.V I J" "u " '"'Bin oe saiu
to doubly merit its name, as it Is not only
a disappearing cannon now. but will also
disappear very speedily In the hands or its
are more elaborate this year than ever be-
----.-.. -'i --iu4ucniiy oi ine luxury
u"d extravagance ot the age.
The small beds are all hung In satin th
spreads are or lace, the parlor sets "!
"Venus-Martin." upholstered In rich bro
cade. an,d. ln truth falthrul copies "f the
fashionable mansions of the dav
Dewey comes In for a share of 'glory and
Tr?.e.ar,e ?wey sets, consisting of the ad
miral s hat and belt and sword and Jacket
In tin soldiers the newest and best sellimr
are the Rough Riders and several English
leglments The Rough Riders are ie3 by
the gallant Roosevelt, and many a dnrii.g
finch will hitx mnA !,. tc?-- ."-'
these same tin soldiers. "" JUan um y
v.u.1 JS nut lorgonen. Sets are shown
having a club, a ball and a tee. and are In-
rainy afternoon. For tho saine purpose are
the table: " "a" enousn ror
There are quantities of' new games this
year, and some of them are not only en"
tertainlng but Instructive. One, "&nc?
Ram'o Wji. Will, Cr.,l .. i .' ..y"cle
... ,.. ...... ttiXtill i3 l 5pienula lpq-
son ln geography, and an easy way to "earn
the geographical position or our new terrl-
7.T J" j .V I1C -ue uorporal "
.r.!aFe. .T0?,??" , Game," "Ben Hur "
4.?iQln'" 'f?.Caae """." "Romany:-
quet Game," and others too numerous to
mention.
- miniature game of billiards is almost
good enough for adult amusement, it is
r.-, ..- -... jA.Ua. tai;cv mat in Place
of a cue a rubber ball Is used. And all this
llinot .a ndredtb Part of all the good
thing to b found ln Santa's Malm.
RARE NAVAJO BLANKETS.
American Room , o vr Fnrnisbed la
the Western Indian Style
Valuable nngi.'
There have been many truly artistic
rooms furnished in Oriental style Turkish,
Persian. Chinese, Japanese and East In
dian. Now attention Is being turned to
the United States and Its possibilities. One
room is devoted to the Western Indian
and Is a truly American room, furnished
by the antique and unique art of the most
Intelligent tribes of this country.
The Aavajos are the most Intelligent and
industrious of all the Indian tribes in ex
istence at the present time, having a nat
urally artistic temperament, and their keen
observation ot nature has been carlrcd out
in all or tnfrlr works. They have tor cen
turies pursued their art under their own
systems, little unchanged by any educa
tion which they might obtain irom tho
civilized world. Soon the Indian will be
gone, and his art with him. Soon his sinew
covered bow. his beaded buckskin Jacket,
"strappings and wonderful woven blanket
will be thlng3 of the past. The predoml
nant color or the Navajo blanket Is red,
which is considered by the Indian as the
lire color, giving light and lira and heat,
i-ach piece Is the work of years, and the
coloring, textures and designs are as ex
quisite as Soma Ckt tho mnist aTnfinli'u riiocx
. ine .cii,:.
Evcrv thrAnil f n...M J I - t
I , - .... m ,a ..wvvii i!iu unci nuteii,
laced and Interlaced, twisted and retwlsted
IntO SO fflnni' rimrfntlo nnrl n...vm.nl Hnr.
,,,. 7. , :rf .-.. uiiu iviiuiuua lilies
tnat it is almost impossible for the eye to
IZ . ",,u 3el eacn tnreaa is put
through the warp by means of a rough
wooden needle, and separately, so that
every color represents a separate ball of
.- i j iiceuie is operaiea solely uy
nand, and the work is nnrima iinvn i-
means or a long and heavy smooth stick or
"i. nuica me operator also works by
hand.
SOmetimeS th ripStfm alldrlanll atnna ran.l
So.'J'J'i." ibaF ls run through and another
pattern is begun. This may suggest either
a. Ejeat change In the lire of the weaver, or
JSi "e" weaver nas taken It In hand.
t T??8 furrJ' rugs are entirely native. The
inaians raise the sheep, and the squaws
card the wool with hand cards, spin It with
hand whirls, dye it into Its bright non-rad-ing
colors by their own secret methods
with roots, barks and vegetables, and then
weave it by hand. These are as thick as
a board, and never wear out. They have
been known to stand the test or ninety
years wear on the floor or an adobe hut
m one ramily, and still remain firm.
The finer and lighter ones are'made from
tighter spun yarn, which they buy. These
are the ones which so closely resemble the
most expensive rugs obtained from the
Orient.
The diagonal twills were originally made
and intended for the chiefs. The colors
employed, as well as the design, indicate
the particular chler ror whom they were
woven a sort or coat-or-arms. The rain
iW. effects, shading from a deep to a
i ".. ' Blmue oi ine same color, are or a
later manufacture, and make extremely
handsome portieres.
.Ha.vLHEr draped a room completely with
these blankets, as the Indian" call ihem, it
L.,Pi5?3ant lo ,carr' out the idea in nil its
qualntness and rugged barbarity, hanging
M,S.?arS.KW,t,h- trophies or war nnd the
chase of the Western plains beaded moc
cas'nsi, weapons. Implements, charms,
n??3' .basketf. "tomtoms," images
representing the religion of a decadent
race, beaded vests, sashes, ceremonial or
naments and hunting bags, horns or ex
tinct buffaloes, bows and arrows, cera
mics ot prehistoric as well as later dates,
decorated In colors which remind us or
tne Japanese art of the long ago: buckskin
garments strung with beaded designs
threaded with iIppt tnt).i.. .n. i.
with i,.m;i -.," '.---v--"- --m"" "
ii. i j fnr iiu euiureu straw embroider
ies and banplnri Wnm..
There are quaint fur collarette of whole
skins, with a slit In the middle for the
Ik1"3' th,e ta' sU" attached at the back or
the neck, the front ornamented ln bead
work; there nre funny little rain gods and
JSai!.c.ot?..SE.i5,JlBe? that give lucTc in the
-..-wt, ...ucieui ma oi oeautltui colors,
and native copper and silver hammered
!w'w.i,iry- WB and kettles of original
iif. ".a11 maklnB a most wonderful and
interesting display or semi-barbaric handi
work and primitive artistic taste. These
form a gorgeous series or ever-varying de
signs giving color and tone to all thlr sur
funimfs' -a,nd,ln Perfect harmony with
the brilliant background from the looms of
the squaws.
The Drilm ot a Fad.
Twenty-five years' ago It wag'consldered
only natural thaPa man should concen
trate all his Interest In life In his office
and that a woman's horizon should he
bounded by baking cake and making Ber?
r,J2,'1S Colle.e llfe' wlth its conslquent
freedom from the restraint of narrowing
Sei"f1n,?es' ,an.d lts introduction to a
nl7 h". nIe c,Ircl.? aJ.an impressionable
age, has altered all this. We later-day
ST vm. aenI,r af,rala ,of beln Provin
cial. This is a decade of specialists and
specialties Individuality is the word. If
neither art nor science has attractions ror
LhUtwoose a fad'It does not matter
Whether you are suffering from ennui or
overwork, a cult you must have. It will
prove a resource for many an Idle hour
an ever new and never tiring interest, a
stimulant to the tired brain after a hum-
For instance, it you are musical In a
small way, collect the signed photographs
of singers: make copies on velvet of fa
mous scores. If reading ls your pleasure,
the old book stores contain a mine of in
terest for VOU. Anil nf wofilfh ....
HK-o-,. ' " J""'
Be a photographer, a palmist, a graph
ologist; teach your boy to intelligently
collect colas and stamps, eggs, insects or
rocks. What matter If he does litter his
room with rubbish? Better that than have
his idle mind filled with Idle thoughts.
Teach your girl to know the great art
"" i me ivunu dj- names and history,
and to save her pennies to buy photo copies
of them. Let her learn to distinguish the
flne laces and beautiful broideries she can
never own, to decorate her own room with
national costume sketches, to grow and
graft roses, or, best of all. become an au
thority on the chemistry of cookery.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Take a heavy saddle of Canada mutton,
stick two dozen cloves in the top in regular
lines, put a clove of garlic In each end
close to the backbone. Hang the saddle in
a cold place for a week or ten days or
have the dealer of whom you buy lt hang
it for vou. When ready to roast put it
in a dripping pan. kidneys side down, and
stand it in a hot ovpn. After it has roasted
fifteen minutes pull the pan forward and
season the mutton well with" salt and a
little pepper. Put it back in the oven, and
in five minutes pull it forward again and
baste the saddle well with half a pint of
sherry. After the half pint has been poured
over the saddle there will be sufficient in
the pan for basting, which must be done
frequently till the Joint is done. Mutton
must be roasted rare; an hour and a
quarter 13 long enough to roast a heavy
saddle, or even less time, ir one likes It
rare. When the saddle is done lift It care
fully from the pan into a hot platter and
cover it with a coating of currant Jelly.
Pour the fat from the dripping pan, stand
lt on the stcve, pour In a half pint of sher
ry, let lt get hot, then pour lt on the
platter round the saddle and serve.
Jerusalem artichokes boiled with cream
sauce and stuffed peppers are the proper
vegetables lo serve with roast saddle ot
mutton.
The Ethics of Shopping.
Tn answer to the question. "What Is vour
Idea of the proper way to shop?" Mrs.
Enid Widdrington, ot England, who ls
making a lecture tour In this country.
Bald:
"The mere Idea ot going from one counter
to another pricing the goods and buying the
cheapest has little to do with what I
call the ethics of shopping. Every woman
should consider not alone the price and
quality of the goods, but where they are
made, whether in dark sweatshops or well
lighted, heated and ventilated rooms and
by healthy persons: the prices paid the
people who manufacture, the wages paid
the cUrks, thfe humane way In which the
clerks are treated by their employers:
whether the clerks are simply pin money
makers, who have homes and parents to
support them, or are really In need of the
money tor their own support and that or
others."
"Neighborhood" Dinners.
A unique plan or' neighborhood dinners
has been, tried with success in a certain
suburban district recently. A number ot
young married folks occupying houses in
close proximity to each oilier clubbed to
gether and have dinners at frequent Inter
vals at each others' holies. The dinners
are a sequel to a meeting of the wives ln
the afternoon, and Instead of one house
keeper having to provide the entire dinner,
the others in the club furnish some dish
previously allotted, and upon which es
pecial care has been expended. The menus
are said to be. particularly flne. The hus
bands join their wives at the appointed
hour for dinner, and an indoor sort of pic
nic is enjoyed. In addition to the Soci
ability promoted by thee dinner meetings,
the young cooks and housekeepers enter
IntO Q. frlpnrilv inmnaHtlnn that la (.
aav jjrovea rtry ffecUv
SERVANTS BYJHE HOUR.
Kevr Phase of the Mo-Called Domes'.
tic Science to Be Tried
in New York.
From the New York Sun.
"Domestic Science" takes on a character
at variance with this title in view ot the
practical measures adopted by one associa
tion of women dealing chiefly with the
servant problem. This body has its meet
ings. Its conferences. Its cooking school
and Its customary apparatus inseparable
from such movements undertaken by wom
en. But its activity does not cease at that.
One evidence of the thoroughness of this
society is shown by the woman who has
volunteered to instruct in her own houso
all applicants to work in a new branch
or the society's efforts. Looking about
them to supply what seemed most needed
just now in domestic service as lt exists
In rew ork, the women of this society
decided to provide servants who may bu
engaged for a certain part of every day
either by families who may want addi
tional servants during certain hours of the
aRy or even at irregular periods.
Such cusual service has never been easy
to obtain in New York. Nearly every
lamily has its charwoman, customarily
called In for such employment as she is
capable of. In flats tho janltress Is likely
to have a handy friend and servants ln
a household can sometimes suggest a rel
ative or acquaintance. They are not llkely
to be very efficient, are capable only of
the crudest service, and are likely to be
tolerated only because no better ones are
known. Thpv h.lvn npvpr lin ..nntil.tc
of service in the household that demanded
me sum or trained servants.
The new departure will seek to provide
women who during the time they are ln
the house can do their work as well as it
they were regularly employed there. Wait
resses, chambermaids or cooks will be
trained to efficiency enough to take the
place of a regular servant during the hours
they are hired. Twenty cents an hour is
the compensation agreed upon, and the
women are not to expect their food. This
new mmse oi tne servant question ls ex
pected to afford reliet chiefly to persons
or moderate means. Servants who may
be hired by the day or for special occas
ions ore frequent enough. From French
chefs, who demand $23 ror going to cook
a dinner, down to the expert native who
will do the same thing tor S3, cooks may
be hired readily. Caterers supply us many
black-coated men as a hostess may wish
and expert, dert women are sent out hv
an agency at a rate graduated according
. i.icn ciiieiciity irom .. to li. inis list
runs on down to the least capable class
that goes out by the day.
The women soon to be available through
the new society will occupy a position be
tween these grades. They are to be cheap
priced and always available. Their honesty
will be guaranteed, und their capacity will
be made as great as possible. The dir
iiculty or retaining for work of this kind
sen-ants who might obtain regular em
ployment has been met ln a measure by
the change In the class from which lt Is ex
pected to draw these women. Girls who
prefer to live In their own homes and yet
need employment, and have not the skill
to go out as clerks or typewriters; others
who are preparing themselves for work of
this kind in the evenings and are compelled
to earn, their support In the meantime, sup
ply the demand.
This movement has an ultimate purpose,
which has occupied the attention of domes
tic scientists before they were ever called
by that name. It is hoped that American
girls of a grade that has hitherto looked
down upon domestic service may be inter-
";;V" .'"c "A" "- oi tnat occupation,
nnich give them Independence and enjoy
ment of their own homes when they are
not actually nr wnrlr Th. nn .)..-.! t.i
be ln working order before the end of the
year, and Its fate will hP lnr.in. Vi 11,
servers ot the servant question In its varied
and perolexlnir 1 irhts. That i. nf .i
portant to persons who are able to pay the
j.-. ,. w.t hiuol rn.iueu moor, aitnouen
It Is vexatious even then. The sort of aux'
i?r.gfapoA,u.lreotop?saga.ot moa-
A CHRISTMAS CHANGE
When the Canal Method of Glft-Glr-
Intr Has Palled, Try This
Plan.
TVhen the Christmas tree has palled, the
stockings become a part of thn qt in
which the mythical Santa Claus took a
part, and the displaying of gifts on the
piano with the cards'ot the givers attached
becomes a hackneyed custom of declining
interest, perhaps a change such as has been
-uuuieu successfully in some households
may find favor in more. This idea ls to
hide the gifts. Father and mother do thi9
part, while the other members or the fami
ly do the seeking. A letter, presumably
from Santa Claus, appears on the mantel
Christmas morning,- and In It are dlscov
ZlZl trt.aJ". InLt caref ul- disguised how-
ures. or course, most unlikely places are
selected.
." 0reifamI, l "member that an Inno
cent looking barrel or apples that had
mS ?or ,a X?ns tlmo in the cellar was
made to do duty as a gay deceiver, the
ntSf?5 a? pIes on the toP covering all sorts
AJFin V?m.a typewriter to a tin horn.
S5?A?; ," h,av,n5 uee boasted by the
rnn.rt"1"? SZ1 ot the house that nothtal
could be hidden without his knowledge!
3; V? was chosen, and the hiding
h Lle ,he lleptu ,s astonishment caS
A. nnereaoouis ot the treaK-
5nEn3,d W in.a sound slumber, while
fnm,? nS,iCharmlmr Cnrlstmas conceits
rSSSr.S u.nB P'ace under his mattress,
do dhhehd.'nhng; room tabIe was made to
hn yby ,haY,nB ,a. supplementary '"elt
iniJJ"16"- in which. tIle Sifts were ly
!"? whl!e the young rolks wandered every
where else over the house, and at last sat
I0",1?, to, breakfast hopelessly discouraged
despite the very pointed hints In th writ
JSLf'AS that they foSndon thenVmet
fo; i v; . , ' eacn Person can formu
late an Individual scheme of hiding ac
cording to the furnishing and resources Sf
the house. The novelty or this plan will.
Ln"1. SUe' proi'e its "rtain recommenda
tion to those who have tired Just a wee bit
ot the regulation Christmas celebration.
Good Form of To-day.
This Is a very good time to be thlnklnir
about the old question of talking at a
play or musical recital of any sort? There
Isn't any question about It. for the law of
courtesy which forbids It is Implacable
and is broket. only at the utter sacriflce
or good manners. There was a time when
people were so given to talking through
plays and concerts, particularly the latter
that jokes were built upon the sad raet
and the funny papers all over the country
made capital out of it, says the Chicatro
Times-Herald. It has always! like a lot
of other unpleasant things, been laid at
the door of the remlnlne part or society
hUKil" ,si,an uP-to-date discovery that this
hnblt. like gossip and tale-telling and
others. Is not confined to women. Onlv
a. little while ago, at a concert In this
town, a musician or hlch rpnntnti ,..
one or a box party that listens! n n
violin solo. Through the sottest strains
mis uuui miKea. not even lowering his
voice to a whisper, and so disturbed the
people about him that their displeasure be
came evident, and ho was made to desist
AVhat that man's feelings would be if the
positions were reversed it 13 easy to
imagine.
The Tarquolse In Favor.
Again Is the turquoise In at the goal of
the mode ahead of all other gems, and a
series or turquoise-set slides, run on a
whlfT or white chltton. is the mot modish
dog collar Tor use with an evening dress
Very deep blue turquoise, flecked with the
pale brown or the matrix tone. Is what a
carefully dressed Individual adopts, and it
is set In Keltic gold. A very little gold and
a great deal of silver are used In the mak
ing of these settings, so that the effect
Is rather that of silver, with yellow spots
In It. than gold, and oil over the plain
round band settings tiny Runic rhvmei ore
engraved, or they are cleverly simulated
by the graver's tools.
Apple Trifle.
The best apple trifle ls made by peeling
and slicing a" pound of apples and boiling
them with two teaspoonrulls of water an
ounce or brown sugar, and a stick or cin
namon until they are a pulp. Add hair an
ounce of butter and the grated rind of a
lemon. Beat them well and pass them
through a sieve. Cut rponge cake Into two
pieces, spread them with the prepared ap
ple and Join the pieces again. Place Ina
deep glass dish, pour sherry over them
and let them soak for two hours. Then
cover with boiled custard and serve at
once.
Cream Tomato Soup.
One can ot tomatoes, one pint of milk
one pint hot water, one-half teaspoon salt'
one teaspoon soda, one-fourth spoon of
pepper. Melt In another vessel one table
spoon of butter, and"when hot add one
tablespoon of flour. Cook a few minutes
and then slowly stir In one cup of milk.
When smooth and creamy rub the toma
toes In through a strainer, adding hot
I.r1" ""' . men suua- ana mine Lt
oil reach DoUlaj point,
1900
Styles.
OUR DESIGNS
For the year 1900 are now in course of construction and will be
ready for the Aeio Century.
ALL PIANOS
Now in stock in our three factories and fourteen stores
Must Be Disposed of Before Jan. 1st. 1900
This store is filled with the most desirable styles and a large
reduction in price has been made on each instrument
If you intend to
BUY A PIANO
Between pow and the Holidays, make your selections
AT ONCE
Prices the lowest assortment the best terms to suit your
circumstances. "We have Upright Pianos at
$150.00
Fully equal to those sold by retail dealers at $225.00. See and
hear them you will then be convinced.
If you desire the retail dealers' $150.00 kind we can supply
them at
$115.00
Remember, we are manufacturers that explains it
F. G. SMITH
Western Warerooms
.T.J:--fc-l
CARE OF COSTLY CHfNA.
High Salaries Paid to Disbn-asners
Who Can-Handle It Without
Breakage.
From the American Queen.
Washing the costly china which wealthy,
people use at grand dinners ls almost a'
flne art. Such china Is often hand painted
by celebrated artists, and a single piece
not Infrequently costs from 5 to JIM or
more. The contents of the china closets
of some, of our multl-mllllonalres are worth
a moderate fortune, and their care is in
trusted only to experts, who charge high
prices for their service. Some of the dish
washers employed by fashionable caterers
receive salaries which far exceed those of
the average bookkeeper or clerk.
In the first place, the pieces are never
allowed to touch each other, but are
brought to the table and removed one at
a time. When not In use, they are kept
ln padded cases, with thick layers of folded
tissue paper over each piece. Nor are they
ever put Into a dish ..pan, even for a dip
into water. Instead. ich nfon fe tati,ia.ii
sponged with the soft silk SDonsre known
as surgeon s sponge, from Its use in wash
ing wounus Deiore tne davs of medicated
cotton. Not even with this is lt rubbed,
only brushed as lightly as a raw wound
might be. until It is perfectly clean. .After
which It is as tenderly dried with old. soft
linen, or with an India silk handkerchief.
i-ess expensive china, which Is still "too
costly for working days," is kept in piles,
with either tissue paper 'or double faced
canton flannel between the plates, to pre
vent any possible rubbing of the hand
paintings, which though unsigned, are
artistic and beautiful.
A useful adjunct to any china closet with
a set of hand painted plates, and most
closets have at least a few. is a set of
canton flannel doylies for each set. Cut
them of fairly heavy double faced canton
flannel, each a very little larger than the
plate It Is to protect. If you make such
a set for a friend, buttonhole-stitch the
edges with wash silk ln a color to match
the china, an embellishment which, though
not necessary to use, makes them much
more ornamental.
Cases of canton flannel for silver are also
desirable properties. Make each one to
hold a dozen forks or spoons, with two
lengths of llannel one on the other, and
divided into comoartments hv mnchino
stitching. Have the piece which rorms the
back or the case wider than the tront, to
furnish a flap to hold over at the top.
say from three to tour Inches deep. Meas
ure the size ot each case by that or the
article it is to hold table, dessert, tea or
coffee spoons, dinner or dessert forks, etc
A LARGE SUBJECT.
An Enellihrann Objects to tbe Small
Space Given England In Amer
ican Geographies.
"I am well satisfied with the American
method of education," said an english
man residing In New York. "In ract, ror
girls, especially, I consider that It Is better
in many ways than tho .Knglish system.
I do, however, object to some of the geo
graphical ideas that they have In regard
to England. Last winter mv little Hri
started to learn about the states. From
October until May she drew maps of each
one, learned about their towns, rivers,
SS. "irt"?. and .commercial products until
she had them all at her Angers' ends.
-That was all well -enough, and I great
ly admired the thoroughness or the teach
ing; so this year, when she told me that
they were beginning on JKngland. Scotland
ahd Ire and. I relt nnifo ni.J .iT. .il"
should learn alt about the dear old coun-
try
pleasure In talking to her of my old haunts.
Well, ir you will believe lt. In about a. week
she announced that they had finished up
with Great Britain, and that the class had
started to study up the divisions of the
Continent. Six months for the United
.um uiuiiuOT myseit a good deal of
T, ,, iK Ior England, Scot and
and Ireland! Then I relt. Indeed, that my
children were Americanized."
For the Pocketless Woman.
In these days ot the pocketless tailor
made suit a shopping bag is an acceptable
girt. A roomy one made or black satin
with drawstrings that will work, will be of
Inestimable value.
A rhyme Is a' good passport with almost
any gift. This one ifight accompany the
Whtn mx Uir soei a thopalnr.
All her pirkartl arc dropping.
aou no pia in an crttoa can in find to rnt W
blrta) vai. mi
X Hull think mr work rtaulted
If lb GJJ.V- Ik rf1lr.a
1 "! i $' b.! a tiu tiny
Piano
1000 Walnut
, GUIDINGA CHILD. , '
Ta OTerTTbelmlnir Responsibility
Which Is Placed Upon, tha
Wise Parent.
Prom the ladles Homo Jooro!.
Aside from the divine command, the first
and paramount reason for obedience In
children ls that It Is necessary to their
safety. The strongest Instinct of nature
Is the preservation of the race. The young
are placed in families, under the care of
parents, that they may have a better
chance of obtaining maturity. Constant
dangere surround them, which experience
has taught their elders to avoid. This
knowledge cannot be used for their good
If they reftise to obey the limitations which
It Imposes. The habit ot prompt obedl
?2?ce .n. 1ItIe thing? makes It easy to yield
the will when greater questions arise to ba
decided.
It Is not from an arbitrary wish to have
their- own way. or to keep their child lr
slavish subjection to their own whims or
predictions that wise parents Insist upon
obedience. It ls because if they are
worthy to be parents they know better
what is for the best good of their child
than his youth and Inexperience permit
him to know himself, and so can guide
him for his highest welfare. It ls an
overwhelming responsibility, but lt Is ona
that Is Inherent ln the very nature of tha
relationship which exists between the par
ent and the child In every phase and de
partment of life.
Cranberry Tlmbales.
Take two qvarts of cranberries, four cups
of sugar and two cups of water; wash and
pick over the cranberries carefully, put
them In a saucepan with two cups of
water, cover and stew until tender; then
strain them through a sieve; return tha
pulp to the saucepan and boll fifteen
minutes: add the sugar and stir and boll
Just long enough to melt the sugar; rlnso
out the timbale molds with cold water
and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Pour
the cranberries when nearly cold Into tha
molds and set In a cool place to get
firm.
Illustrated Gift Books
Pine Seta of Standard Authors
Calendars 5c to 85.00
Christmas Cards, all Styles
Waterman Fountain Pens
Gold Pens
Automatic Dictionary Stands
Webster International Dictionary i
Globes, Zoc to $10.00
Fine Pocketbooks
Card Cases, Cigar Cases
Leather Lap Tablets
All the new books
Oxford Teachers'
Bibles. Prayer Books and Hymnals
Juvenile Books in great variety
All the New Books at Dis
counted prices
. . . We Are Open Evening . .
BRYANT & DOUGLAS
look snd Stationary Cx
1002 WALNUT STREET.
Christmas 1
' ,-. v js
.3te:
- r&x- zrmst-r 2i Au.iajjcpart5JSLfcag
