Newspaper Page Text
* WILL SEABROOK'S TRAVELS
THE BEGGARS OF NAPLES.
,y William Buehler Seabrook.
(Copywright, 1909. by W. B. Sea
Special to The Chronicle.
Reprinted by Permission of Au
Naples, Italy.-"See Naples and
die!" How many times this estatic
exclamation has burst from the lips
of the enchanted traveler as the vessel
upon which prow he stands draws
nearer and nearer the Italian coast,
as the verdant isle of Capri awakens
in his soul the vision of Ulysses and
the siren voices, as the rocky prom
ontory of Posilipo recalls the Virgil
ian legend of Aeneas and the Trojan
heroes, as the morning sun appears
behind 1he smoking suimit of Ves
uvius and reveals the wondrous pan
orama of the gulf and harbor.
See Naples and die! A splendid
scheme, that, if it were literally pos
sible, but unfortunately it isn't. Sim-!
ple death is a mere.bagatelle in com
parison with the fate that awaits the
wayfarer who approaches for the first
time these classic shores. The phrase
"Voir Naples, et mourir!" has be
come a proverb, and, like all proverbs,
it is treacherous and misleading. To
die were surely not too rich a price
to pay for a single glimpse of such a
glorious landscape, but the stranger
who disembarks at Naples, is destined
to suffer instead of death an unre
lenting series of petty annoyances and
impositions that destroy half the
charm of his long-dreamed of and ea
gerly antieipated visit. Naples is a
vile hole, despite its pretend-ed sani
tary and moral regeneration under the
reign of Victor Emmanuel III. It is.
a dirty. den of thieves and beggars,
human vampires, who live by preying
upon the tourists. The saddest part
of it is that continued contact with
Neapolitan porters, beggars and lazo
roni, which at first involves no more
serious consequence than the empty
ing of one's pocketbook, ends by de
stroying all faith in honestly and
virtue, by driving fromn the heart all
sentiment of human kindness, all pity
for the poor, all consideration for the.
afflicted; sights, which at first in
spiire--especially when disclosed to
the unaccustomed eyes of an Ameri
ean-the keenest sense of pity, end
by eliciting nly repulsion and dis
My unpleasant experience began
even before I set foot upon the quay.!
Before embarking at Marseilles, I had*
.made the acquaintance of a young
Egyptian, who, thaving previously
spent a year at the University of Na
ples, knew the city, and offered to
aid me in landing and finding a hoteL.
As our steamer was bound for the
Orient, she did not dock at Naples,
but simply anchored in the harbor,
and the few passengers who were
bound for the Italian port were com
pelled to make their own arrange
ments for getting ashore. Our vessel
had become the centre for a veritable
swarm of small boats, and my friend
drove a bargain with one of the least
villainous looking watermen, by the*
terms of which the two of us with
our baggage, were to be rowed ashore
for five lire (one dollar), dear enouni
in all consciene'e for the landing pin'e
was only a couple of hundred yards
distant. Paying the money in ad
vance, to obviate all possibility of dis
pute, we seated ourselves in the steru
- and the boatman, aided by a o~m
panion oarsman, pushed off froint the
ship, but after a few vigorous strokes
and a irhispered colloquy, the two
conspirators halted their craft, mid
way between the vessel and doek, and
i.nquired how much of a "tip'' we
intended paying them "per maca
"Not a cent," replied my compani
ion, "we have already paid you twice
as much as the service is worth."
However, as the boatmen were dis
posed to argue and as we were in a
hurry to get ashore, he tossed then
a silver eoin worth ten cents.
"'That is not sufficient," insolently
cried the first Italian, and he disdain
fully refused to touch the money.
''Well, it is certainly all you are
going to get," said my friend.
"'Signore evidently wishes to take
a mean advantage of the poor and
helpless," snarled the hypocritical old
pirate as he folded a pair of hercu
lean arms upon his hairy chest, ''You
must pay us two lire for macaroni."
"I'll be dammed if I do!" shouted*
the Egyptian, dropping the Neapoli
tan dialect to register his own vow
in excellent and forceful English.
But we soon found that we were
absolutely at the boatmen's mercy.
and in order to reach the quay were
finally compelled to accede to their
outrageous demand. Otherwise we
would have spent the day in the mid
dle of the harbor.
I thought before leaving America
+hat the custom of "tipping" ser
Vants had degenerated into an abuse;
I found the French "pourboire'" sys
ten still worse; but -the incessant
clamor of the Italian for macaroni
money is the ultimate abomination.
The American servant expects to be
tipped, but if he is given nothing or
a smaller sum than he hoped for, it
seldom occurs to him that he has a
right to evidence 'his chagrin by out
ward signs. The French garcon who
sees his pourboire escaping from his
fingers discreetly presents his open
palm, and if he judges the fee insuf
ficient sometimes permits himself to
raise his eyebrows in a deprecatory,
grimace. As for the Italian, he bra
zenly demands his "macaroni" and
becomes blasphemous and insulting
if it is not accorded him witb suf
After our luggage had been sub
mitted to the custom officers' in
spection and de'livered to a dray-'
man, we emerged upon the Corse Um
berto Prima and started on foot for
a not far distant hotel.. At each step
we were beset by beggars, by beggars
of the most frightful and revolting
type, dirty, whining, h1alf-naked
creatures of both sexes and of all
ages, maimed, disfigured, blind, dis
eased, disorted, horrible-a condition
of affairs doubly disgraceful because
the kingdom of United Italy is now
rich enough to provide asylums for
all its crippled poor and powerfull
enough with its excellent police sys
tem to enforce th-em all from the pub
lic streets. As we pursued our course,
an old woman, clothed in indescrib
ably filthy rags, arose from the gut
ter and barred our path while she tore
open h;er dress to exhibit her cancer
eaten breasts, and then, with her in
flicted hands, laid hold upon our coat
sleeves. A few steps further on, an
apparently ablebodied mendicant, not
content with repeated refusals began
to dog our footsteps, and my comrade
who was thoroughly out of patience
threatened to call an officer. There
upon, the .vagabond abandoned his
cringing attitude, arose tall and erect,
raised his elenched fists toward the
sky, and uttered the words, which I
"Thrice dammed hog of an infidel,
by what right do you interfere wi:.n
my affairs? It was not from you,
unclean animal, that I was asking
alms, but from your slightly less des
The young villian, a moment be
fore as humble as a whipped cur, once
convinced that his pleading was use
less had become haughty as a su
perb and wrathful Roman senator.
Despite my resentment and dis
gust, the splendid torrent of invec
tive, the clear, ringing periods, com
pelled my admiration and reminded
me of Cicero 's oration against Cata
Ten minutes later we passed the
Plazza Nicola Amore where a num
ber of hacks and cabs were standing
idle. T'hey swooped down upon us
like a flock of ravens, and I recalled,
by force of contrast, the respectful
solicitations of the cochers upon the
Parisian boulevards, the deferential'
"Want-a-cab-sir'?" of the London
cabbies, As we trudged onward, one
of the hackmen trailed in our wake
and assailed our ears with the follow
ing reflections: - I
"What do you suppose carriages
are made for'? Is it stinginess or pov
erty that compels you to walk? How
an we honest and noble Italian hack
men gain our daily bread if the fores
tieri adopt such an ignoble method of
Perhaps the most aggravated of all
these is the Neapolitan bootblack. His
name is legion. He lines the curbing
and bl6eks the entrance of public
buildings. Armed with a heavy brush
he spies the tourist from afar, and
forj fear that he will be passed un
noticed begins to beat a noisy, in
sistent tatoo upon his box! at the
same time he arises and, as the in
tended victim draws nearer, shouts
in his face an imperative and inso
The ubiquitous peddler of matches
is as a rule simply another species
of beggar. Yesterday a little girl ap
proached me with such a sweet and
winning smile that I bought a box of
luifers and paid her double the cur
rent price. Supposing, therefore that
she had struck an "easy mark," she
poited, shook -her head, and said:
"Non abbostanza. signore."' (Not
I walked awvay wit'hout respondin g,
and the child hurried after me. with
an obscene gesture, these words:
'Mananima che da morte." (MWy
our eternal soul perish.)
Fortunately the English or Ameri
can tourist, lie does not, as a general
rule, understand the -insulting lan
guage of the lazaroni. Ever though
he be an excellent Italian scholar, the
phrases escape him because they are
not pure Italian. rather a sort ot
~omina tion Neapolitan patos anct
lower class argot. He simpi.y knows.
that the beggar whom he has refused
to notie-e is utteri og a violent protest.
Onenct it i's well for his~ peace of mind
t ha hisk-1nowleron is not- more spe
But, after all, you may perhaps at1k,
suppose the tou':iat instead of hardan
ing his heart again;t all thi-; misery,
bestows a few of his spare coppers
upon these un'happy supplicants? It
happens that I can picture in a very
few words the exact result of such
a course. An American gentleman,
whose commercial affairs briog him
to Naples every wiater, tells me that
one morning, as the result of a wager,
he changed a pie-e of 20 lire into
soldi (500 soldi), loaded his pockets
with the pennies, and then went ab,ut
his accustomed business, neither seek
ing or avoiding the thoroughfaro-s
most frequented by beggars, but giv
ing one soldi to each mendicant who
asked personally for alms. Between
B:30 a. m. and noon he spent
only a little more than two hours in
the streets and cafes, but at 11:20 a.
m. the last of his 500 soldi had dis
"MAR.T" FLOYD WINS.
Strong Protest, -it is Said, Will b~e
Made Against His Appointment,
Despite His Recommendations.
rhe State Bureau.
Washington, April 15.-The presi
lent today sent to the senate the
aame of William M. Floyd to be post
mater at Spartanburg. That's
"Mart." Although, at the insis
tence of .a number of Spartanburg
people, Postmaster General Hitch
ock agreed to withdraw the name ha
iad sent to the president, it was
ither. too late or Mr. Hitchcock
.hanged his mind.
Senator Smith left here this after
aoon for Florence, but it is known
:hat -he will ask the senate to with
lold confirmation pending any pro
est which may come, and it is under
tood such a protest is on the way.
The remarkable psychological phe
iomena in Spartanburg suddenly de
eloped by the postoffice vacancy is
'urnishing material for curious spee
alators in certain quarters of this
Ten days ago the Hon. Mart blew
nto town, within the umbrageous
uardianship of Hon. Leumas W. C.
Blalock -of Clinton and other places.
Blalock on one side, John G. Cap
ers on the other, he was duly, cere
xoniously steered into the presence
f the Hon. Frank. H. Hitchcock.
There were emptied out before the
itchcockian gaze some three or four
)eks of personal letters of encomi
ims of Mart. They were written by
nerchants, lawyers, .tailors, doctors,
;eachers, preachers, bank _presidents,
ailroad presidents, cotton mill presi
~ants, college presidents, city and*
~ounty officials, politicians of every.
;tripe, color and previous condition,
1l testifying in the most superlative
;erms that Mart was about the most
igh toned, honorable, handsome and
listinguished citizen among them and
:hat if there ever was a man preemi-,
ently qualified to be postmaster at
partanburg he was "it.''
Neither could the postmaster gen
ral or any other escape the inevitable.
>onclusion that there was an oppor
:nity for Mr. Taft to make himself
olid with Spartanburg by appointing
:he man that everybody seemed to,
1ave hit upon as the one and only
nd the very pet of the community.
Lo, what is the astonishment in the
ostmaster general's and other peo
ale's minds when word comes post
iaste and through the medium of two:
,enators that Mrt Floyd isn't fit for
he job, that in fact of all the unfit
nen in and around Spartanburg for
:he job of postmaster he is the un
ittest ! Petitions, protests, personal
etters to the postmaster general dis
aussing Mart in all the relations of
ife are coming in, and Mr. Hitch
lock is studying psychology.
Mr. Floyd Congratulated.
Sparta nburg, April 15.-"You are
ippointed; I rejoice with you.''
The above is the text of a telegram
eeived tonight by W. Mart Floyd,
ipplicant for the postmastership of
)artanburg. from L. W. C. Blalock
Later the following telegram was
eeeived byM. )lyd from John G.
anr,Republican referee of South
Tarolina : ''Your name went to the
;enate today. Congratulations."
Tonight Mr. Floyd said: "I am ap
.ointed, and Mr. Young will be as
;istant postmaster. I intend to be
ostmaster of Sparstanburg and treat
dl alike giving them the very best
A circular letter freely signed by
>ank men, cotton mill men and other
epresentative business men of Spar
a:hurg was got up yesterday and
cent to the postmaster general at.
Vashington. This letter was a strong
narsmenIt of M\r. Young. stating
:hat in consequence of his long ser
riee of 20 years or more as assistant
Istaster, he was the man for the
T. J. Mackey.
In connection with the death of
former Judge Thomas J. Mackey o)f
South Carolina. The News and Cour
ier of Charleston, S. C., reproduces a
characteristic charge delivered by
him from the bench illustrative of
his methods and conditions in South
Carolina in reconstruction times. A
Republican member of congress nam
ed A. S. Wallace had given a note
for $200 as part payment for a biog
raphy of himself, published by some
hack writers. It was a favorite
weakness of the scalawags, carpet
baggers and shabby adventurers who
ruled the State to pose as old-time
South Carolina gentlemen. When
Wallace made the note he was asked
what interest should be stated in case
of his failure to meet it at maturity.
He answered grandly that if he fail
ed to pay promptly interest might
be eharged at three per cent an hour.
The note was so written.
When it was overdue five years an
ingenious and painstaking lawyer cal
culated that Wallace owed his biog
raphers $93,000 and brought suit for
that amount in Judge Mackey's court.
The judge in his charge said the evi
dence showed that the biographers
had described A. S. Wallace as a pa
triot, a Christian and a gentleman
and there damned themselves hope
lessly and inevitably. He quoted
Scripture to prove that the whole
world is inadequate compensation to
a man for the loss of his soul. There
fore, the sam claimed by the biogra
phers was moderate and he directed
that the foreman of the jury come to
the desk and sign a verdict for the
full amount. Mackey at that time
was a Republicaa, but, as may be
-iessed from his charge and comments
his feeling toward Representative
Wallace was not cordial.
Mackey was one of the smartest
and most reckless of the reckless ad
venturers developed by reconstruction,
and the Palmetto State is full of sto
ries and memories of him. It was he
who announced, either from the bench
or in a public speech, that he had
made careful investigation and dis
covered that Franklin J. Moses, Jr.,
was a lineal descendant of the impen
itent thief of the Crucifixion. Dis
cussing -the habit of "Tharasparilla''
Wright, the lisping Philadelphia ne
ro who was an associate justice of
the supreme court, of getting drunk
and preaching in the Columbia bar
rooms, Judge Mackey -said he had in
estigat-ed Wright's ancestry and ac
counted for his inebriate piety by th~e
fact that his reinote ancestor on the.
banks of the Congo had, single-hand
ed, eaten a very devout Wesleyan
misioary, thereby acquiring relig
ious tendencies, which he transmit
ted to his posterity.
Judge Mackey, although a native
of Charleston, was fond of amusing
himself with the peculiarities of that
ancient and respectable city. On one
occasion he described dramatically the
finding of a dead body at a point
equally distant from Charleston, Au
usta and Columbia and how a post
ortem discovered that the stomach
of the corpse contained three gains
of rice and a spoonful of cistern wi
terr whereupon the coroner promptly
shipped the body to Charlest,n a-3 be
ing proved by the evidence u;aques
tionably to belong there. An>)ther of
his stories was that he had been
forced to flee from Charleston while
yet a youth because he had iandver
tently remarked that in the world
there were steeples taller than St.
Michael's. In the year of the revolu
tion, 1876, he "crossed Jordan," as
t'he process of going over to the Deum
crats was described, and beciame o-ne
of Hampton 's most effective, unscru
pulous and 'daring supporters. He an
nounced his change of heart by rid
ing into a public meeting at Edgefield
on an ox and wearing a red shier. Go
iig down to appear before the sni
preme court in support of one of his
peculiarly dutrageous opinion-. fav
oring the Democrats, he told the peo
ple ivho gathered at a station t-> near
him talk, that he intended to present
to the court 13 conclusive reasons in
support of his position, which reasons
he had then on his person. Where
upon lie produced and exhibited iwo
six shooters and a bowie knife. He
was the originator of the assertion~
that the Republican p)arty had seven
dstiet principles-five loaves and
two small fishes.
Probably no more brilliant man
ever sat on the bench ,anywhere.
When lhe was made a judge he never
had practiced law, and so far as can
be ascertained never had studied it.
Yet lie always could find law for any
decision or ruling he saw fit to make.
If he couldn't fin~d it he invented it
as he went along. His impnlses were
ood. he was a fighter from the heart
and -he had a way of arriving at sub
stantial justice by the most absurd
routes. He deligbted to say the wild
(t th~ings with ani airi of profound
i.avity and intensity. He was a born
actor and love of applause was. per
ips. the ruling passion of his life.
erhap there have been and are oth
er min like him. but for the full de
velopment of a character and charac
teristies like his, stress and turmoil
and times of intense passion and'
strong crisis are needed.-Riehmond
(Va.) News Leader.
When the Small Boy Scored.
President Nicholas Brown, for
whom Brown University was named,
was fond of quizzing small boys..
One day, while walking in the streets
of Providence he came upon a little
fellow who attracted 'his notice.
"How do you do, my boy?" said
the president. "What's your name?"
"My name is Harry, sir," replied
"Harry, it is?" returned Presi
dent Brown. And did you know the
evil one is often called Old Harry?"
"Why, no sir," answered the boy.
"I thought he was called O-ld
CHARLESTON & WESTERN CAR
Schedule in effect May 31, 1908.
ILv. Newberry(C N & L) 12:56 p.m.
A r. Laurens 2:02 p.m.
Lv. Laurens (C & W C) 2:35 p.m.
Ar. Greenville 4:00 p.m.
Lv. Laurens 2:32 p.m.
Vr. Spartanburg 4:05 p.m.
Lv. Spartanburg (So. Ry.) 5:00 p.m.
, r. Hendersonville 7:45 p.m.
.\r. Asheville - 8:50 p.m.
Lv. Laureus (C & W C) 2:32 p.m.
.\r. Greenwood 3:32 p.m.
.A r. 'McCormick 4:33 p.m
Ar. Augusta 6:15 p.m.
Tri-Weekly Part"r Car line be
tween Augusta and Asbevil.e. Trains
Nos. 1 and 2, leave Augusta Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays, leave
Asheville Mondays, Wednesdays and
Note: Th.e above arriv:l and de
partures, as well as connections with
ther companies, are given as hifor
aiation, and are not Zuaranteed.
Gen. Pass. Agt.,
Geo. T. Bryan,
Greenvilie, S. C..
NEWBER Y UNION STATION.
Arrival and Departure of, Passenger
Trains-Effective 12.01 A. MI.
Sunday, June 7th, 1908.
No. 15 for Greenville .. . .8.57a.m
No. 18 for Columbia .. ..l.40 p:m
\". 11 for Greenville .....3.20 p.m
No. 16 for Columbia .... .8.47 p.m'.
C., N. & L.E.
'No. 22 for Columbia .. . .8.47 a.m.
Mo. 52 for Greenville .. 12.56 p.m.
No. os for Columbia .. . .3.20 p.n
'No. 21 for Laurens .. . .7.25 p.m.
*Does not run on Sunday
Thi.s time table shows the times a.
shich trains may be expected to de
part from thirs station, bat their de
-parture is riot guaranteed and the
time shown ia subject to change with
G3. L. Rchiuson,
EXCUSION BATES VIA
To Charleston, S. C., Columbia, S.
C., Spartanburg, S. C., and
Washington ,D. C.
To Charleston and return :-Ae
count Meeting of Sh.riners the South
ern Railway announces very low
round trtip rates. Tickets will be
sold April 21 and 22 limited for re
turn, leaving Charleston not later
than midnight, April 23, 1909.
To Columbia and return :-Account
Musical Festiv.al very low round trip.
tickets will be sold April 21, 22 and
23 limited for return, leaving Colum
bia not later than midnight April
To Spartanburg and return :-Ac
count South Atlantic States Musical
Festival very cheap round trip tick
ets will be sold, April 19. 20, 21, and
22 for trains scheduled to arrive in
Spa:rtanburg before noon April 23,
1909. Limited for return, leaving
Spartanburg not later than midnight
A pril 24th, 1909.1
TTo Washington, D. C., and re
turn :-Accoun!t Annual Meeting
Daughters of the American Revolu
tion, Washington, D. C., very low
round trip tickets will be on sale Apr.
3 and 16 only, from all stations,
limited for return, leaving Washing
ton up to and including, but not later
than midnight, -April 28th, 1909.
For detailed information, tickets,
et(., apply to Southern Railway tick
et agents or address,
J1 L. Meek,
.\ st. General Passenger Agent,
J. C. Lusk,
Divisionl Passenger Agent.
Charleston, S. C.
To Louisville, Kentucky, a.ud Return
Via Southern Railway.
Aceount Southern Baptist conven
tion the Southern Railway announces
very low round trip rates to Louis
ville, Ky. from all points. Tickets
will be sold May 10, 11, 12 and 13,
1909, limited for return leaving Louis
ville not later than midnight of May
Round trip rates from principal
stations as follows:
Chester .. . ......... 15.85
Rock Hill ..... .. .. .. .. 15.85
Spartanburg ............ 14.20
Sumter.. .. ...... ....18.25
Union ... ........ ....14.95
Yorkville............. .. 15.85
For tickets, detailed information,
etc., apply to Souehtrn Railway tick
et agents or. address,
J. C.. Lusk,
Division Passenger Agent,
Charleston, S. C.
J. L. Meek,
Asst. Gen. Passenger Agt.
o 02 =
Quick! Er. Drugg:1st-Quiek!-A
box of Bucklen's Arnica Salve
Here's a quarter-For the love of
Moses, -huriy! Baby's burned him
wit th_xeMme' elddP
boils-andmylcors Arnica Sae-gti
Here'soanquarter-Fo the fmloy. Its
thes greates heaby'o uearthiSld
byeW.fE teril-hn&n, cutwberry,o
ant iso cureby alle thatwily.lt
make a final sttlement of the estate
of Lucindia E. Jones in the court of4
probate for Newherry cou.hty on
Thursday, April 22, 1909, at ele.vn
o'clock in the forenoo7n, and immed
iately thereafter apply for letters
dismissory as administrator of said
J. Y. Jones,
BLUE~ RIDGE SCHEDULES.
No. 18, leaves Anderson at 6i.30i a.
u.. for connection at Belt<mn witn
*hunIhern for Greenville.
No. 12, from Walhalla. leaves An
derson at 10.15 a. mn., for eomnection
zi Belton with Southern Railway for
Columbia and Greenville.
-No. 20, leaves Anderson at 2.20
p. mn., for connections at Belton with
Southern Railway for Greenville.
No. 8,- daily except Sunday, from I
WaThala arrives Ariderson 624 -p.
mn.. with conne'etions at Seneda witih
Southern Railwvay from po'ints south.
No. .10, from Walhalla, leaves -An
derson at 4.57 p. mn., for connectionq
at Beltorn with Southern Railway for
Greenville anid Columbia.
No. 17', arrives at Aunison at 7.50) .
a. mn.. from Rolton with connections
No. 9, arrives at Anderson at 12.24
p. in.. from Belton with connIectionIs
from Greenville and Columnbi.i. (oes
No. 19, arrives at Anderson at 3.40
p. in., from Belton with connections3
No. 11, arrives at Anderson at
6.29 p. in., from Belton with coju
nections from Greenville and Colum
bia. Goes to Walhalla.
No. 7, daily except Sunday. leaves
Anderson at 9.20 a. rn., for Waihalla,
r;ith connections at Seneca fur local
Nos. 17, 18, 19, and 20 are mixed
trtiis between Anderson and Belton
Nos. 7 and 8 are local freight
trains, carrying passengers, between
X-'a.hntl ndu Anderror