Newspaper Page Text
WILL SEABROOK'S TRAVELS *
* : -* ----*~-: * * *
(By William Buehler Seabrook.)
Dlm . Italy. Jine 26.- Sitting in
n u com11able room il the Via Sis
Tia. ToIght, cntrasting my present
evzdition with that of a few weeks
ao iln Naples. I have thought that,
perhaps. to those, who read of the
way in which an almost broke news
paper man was aided by the myste
rious Egyptian in reaching that city,
the means by which he found his way
to the city of Caesars mioiht not be
In Naples, when I found myself
more nearly broke than in Marseilles.
I was often reminded of Mr. Tom
Murphy's favorite phrase. "There
are two sides to everything,'' for
though I missed a lot of ather things,
I learned some valuable lessons, and
saw. some strange sights, that I never
could have seen with a pocket full of
By frequenting eating houses, where
a plate of ihash and bread may be had
for three cents, I have met and fra
ternized with many strange people,
among whom was a middle-aged Swiss
Carlo Steiner by name, who bears
stamped upon his features the indeli
ble mark of good birth and breeding,
who'speaks four or five languages and
talks learnedly without pedantry of
literature, music and philosophy, yet
wno goes in rags. My conversations
with him were glimpses of a myster
ious world, of the existence of which
I was learning for the first time, a
world without geographical borders,
because it is wider than any continent,
a world whose only limit is the great
gulf, which separates it forever from
all the commonplace things of life, the
only things which I had up to this
Carlo Steiner is only one of a-mil
lion. I have met and talked with and
learned from others like him-men
who have been everywhere, who have
sailed the Seven Seas from Suez to
the Golden Gate and back again. who
speak all languages. who know more
I :an I used to think I knew, which is
n :ood deal. ab,>it art and letters. and
: , res al( live as tlaIlI)S, as
acs.My admirationl for them is
tinued wih pity, for with all their
b iiianeil-me n1ay-eare disdain of the
hm-drum. exis~tec of~ pepl who
hlave worni away thleir lives in one rut
just to smake, a living,'' with all
their careless freedom, there is an
.undercurgent of sadness beneath it
.all, like the minor melody in the Pil
*grim 's Chorus, an indefinable some
t:hing that reminds me of Kipling's
.terri~ble poem, "Gentlemen Rankers,"
-it is the "legion of the lost ones,
the cohort of the damned," yet the
A?ast among them has drunk deeper
of the cup of life than the richest and
wisest man of that other upper world,
to which you and I belong, the world
in which we do today just whbat we
did yesterday, and knowing that we
will do the same tomorrow and day
.after to:norrow till we die. I think
honestly. for I have had a -taste of it
:and know what it means, that a man
who has never been hungry without
knowing.where he could get a loaf of
bread: the man who has never been
weary witcout having a place to lie
.down beneath a sheltering roof, has
Some weeks ago, pushed to the
wall. desiring to go to Rome, with
the weather so vile that walking was
impossible, and without money to buy
a railroad ticket; realizing that I
must live until the arrival of my
blessed check from America, and yet
without money to pay for victuals or
bread, circumstances drove me to
.adopt the most despicable of all im
.perfectly honest trades in Europe
.that of the professional guide.
.One morning I went down to the
water front and haunted the steam
boat landings, touching my cap defer
entially and crying, "Want a guide,
sir ?" 'to every pig of an English
speaking traveller who landed, and
received many a ehill refusal, until
a young Scotcehman, George Bogue, by
name, yho was on his way from New
Eealand to Rochester, N. Y., via Suez,
and found himself stranded for a
,week at Naples between boats, with
ont being able to speak a word of
Italian, agreed to employ me as guide
and interpreter, at least long enough
to get him safely installed in a hotel
and siho~w him a few of the principal
:sihts of the city. He proved to be
an average sort of chap, without any
general knowledge outside his own
business (that of wall-decorating)
but he was decent and appreciative;
so3 we got on well. He had vaguely
heard that there was a place some
where in Italy called "Rome," and
that it was the most wonderful city
in the world. Being decent (as I
have said) he naturally wanted to get
out of Naples, and wlben he found
that Rome was cilv five hours dis
tant by rail, I mnanaged to persuade
him to make t,he trip, thereby reach
Sn thnpovidential solution of my
p)r; 11riclit i-z. Ile a 'ree'll~~
all expeAnses while we were travelling
and during our stay in Rome. and to
return to Naples alone just in time
to catch his New York boat.
'On the night of our arrival in the
Eternal City. I was natutrally tat her
ner'VOUs. fDr I felt that it wa i.
to require a l14t If aL and some
bluffing to pass niyself off as a com
petent guide in a city which I had
The next morning. over the coffee
cups. I said, in as matter of fact tone
as I could command. "Well, we'll go
and see the Coliseum first of all,"
just as if I had been in the habit of
going to see coliseums every morning
'of my life. I started off ' with the
Coliseum because it was the biggest
thing in Rome and I knew I could find
it easily without having to ask ques
tions which might arouse in my Scot 's
mind the suspicion that I didn't
know as much abouf the topography
of the Seven Hills as I pretended. But
once we got out on the street I speed
ily found that my two years of read
ing and studying and dreaming about
Rome stood me in good stead.
Oh, how I blessed inwardly the
spring mornings on far-away Greene
street. Augusta, Georgia, where I
used to sit for hours curled up in a
big rocker poring over Stoddard 's il
lustrated books! There was scarcely
a fountain, a monument or public
building that I did not recognize on
sight and feel like greeting as a long
familiar landmark. In the center of
the first public square we traversed
was a big bronze triton spouting a
stream of water skkward througlh a
conch, so I knew I was in the Piazza
Barberini. and that the street going
down the hill was named after the
triton and would lead to the Piazza
Colonna. in which stands the great
column of ?farcus Aurelius Antoni
nus. And that tall yellow palace,
towering on the left-I was sure it
must be the Quairinal and I knew we
should find the Piazza Venezia a lit
tle fartiber on, and that by - passing
Trajan 's forum we would come upon
During our walk we had been chat
tering at a great rate. Bogue' asking
question- about the things we passed
and I res)o)nded as best I could. but
when we reached that mighty moun
ain of cireling arches. I said to him,~
:achel) a little roughly, for I recognz
ed the futility of mine or anybody
else's words, on such a spot1.
"Now. vou sit down there on the
grass, and keep your mouth s.hut for
half an hour, and look at that pile
of stones. Let it soak into your soul.
If you can feel, ever so little, the pow
er and myst.ery and glory of that
great gray ruin, you can say you have
And the lit-tle Scotehman looked
and looked. And I think he under
After that I liked him so well that
I resolved, so far as lay in my power
to make him understand something of
the rest, and wihen. he left Rome he
had four dear memories treasured in
his mind, which I know he will never
forget. They were, the Coliseum, St.
Peter's. the Apollo Belvidere and
Mihel 'Angelo's frescoes on the ceil
ing of Sistine Chapel. The Coliseum
is the greatest monument of the Rome
of the Caesars. St. Peter is the
reatest monument of t'be Rome of
the Popes. The Apollo Belvidere is
the finest flower of pagan art. The
frescoes of Michael Angelo 'are the
strong perfection of Christian art.
Only these four things I showed him,
but he went away more content than
if I had hurried him panting past ten
score ruins, dragged him into twenty
dhurches and trotted him through
three or four miles of sculpture and
Ipicture galleries-a p,roceeding which
most time-pressed tourists regard as
the only way of "seeing'' Rome. Cer
tainly R.ome holds more than four
things worth seeing: the Eternal City
is not a tune of four notes played on
a shepherd 's pipe, yet all its complex
harmonies and discords are but varia
tions of those four themes.
Bogue 's departure left me stranded
again with only two or three dollars
in my pocket, but the next morning
at the United States consulate I had
the good fortune to meet an old lady
from Bangor, Maine, Mrs. Ir-,
through whose kindness I secured the
room in which I sit tonight; in a big
mediadval palazzo of the Via Sistina
(inhabited by an artist and his fami
ly) with the understanding that I
would not have to pay the rent until
the arrival of my check.
Plan for Press Meeting.
Greenville, July 2.-A final meet
ing of the loca.l committee to arrange
for the press meeting was held to
night, and a car ride, receptions at
hotels and local clubs, ball game, and
a banquet were arrantged for. The co
operation of the people of Greenville
in making the meeting a success was
assured the committee. The editors
will be taken to Paris Mountain ii1
tmobile during their visit.
As Long as They Last
One $450 Piano $285
One 435 Piano 325
Two 400 Pianos 275
Two 375 Pianos 225
Two 325 Pianos 205
One 300 Piano 185
One 300 Piano 165
Call on or write for
1320 Main Street,
Columbia, S. C.
EVERYTHING IN MUSIC
The Herald and News,
Newberry, S. C.
For FI VE DOLLARS v
and News and The Da
dress for one year. Sen
and News, and not und
to The Daily Record.
The Daily Record, un
gives to-day's news to*
Capital city in the after
rural routes next morni
to get a daily paper earl
Associated Press E
Special Market Re
Live Capital News
South Carolina Aff
I A clean, enterprisi
If you don'i
will save money
for a free trial any Loose Leaf I
Sheets on any <
Cfhe rooe oureih claims--pyu
e le phonr ie Cos
D.,LltWEderd Jurn nnSheers
lniarsily of Southi 0aToIina
chools of Arts, Science, Education.
Law, Engineering, and
Ten different cours, .:- di to
he degrees of A. B. and B. S
College fees, room and light $66.
3oard $12 per month. Tuition re
nitted in special cases.
Forty-two schclarships. e a c h
vorth $ioo in ca! h and free tuition.
For catalogue address
S. C. MITCHELL, Pres..
Columbia. S. C.
SUMMER BROS. CO.
All persons are hereby warned not
;o trespess upon the lands of the un
lersigned, located in Township 11, by
tering upon it, carrying off
blackberries, pine straw, or
inything else, or cultivating
t, or by allowign their stock
o trespass upon it. Any one so tres
>assing will be prosecuted to the ex
ent of the law.
md The Daily Record,
Columbia, S C.
ie will send The Herald
ily Record to one ad
d money to The Herald
er any circumstances
der new management,
day, and leaving the
noon, goes out on the
ng. Your best chance
ng family paper.
believe that ,
in your office
inders, a Cabinet and Record
f these forns:
; if n otiey cost yonoliSbcing.a
run y e Setsr Puchsn A~~ t
0 c n
C9 m~ $
m , z
This being our twenty-fifth year
of uninterrupted success, we wish it
to be our "Banner Year."
Our thousands of satisfied cus
tomers, and fair dealing, is bringing
us new customers daily.
If you are contemplating the pur
chase of a Piano or Organ, write us
at once for catalogs, and for our
Malone's Music House,
CoLUMBIA. S. C.
NO. 1 HEART SHINGLES
at Low Prices at
SUMMER BROS. CO.
BLUE RIDGE SCHEDULS.
No. 18, leaves Anderson at 6.30
n., for connection at Belton wit
Southern for Greenville.
No. 12, from Walballa. leaves
derson at 10.15 a. m., for connecti
at Belton with Southern Railway f.
No. 20, leaves Anderson at 2.
P. m., for uonnections at Belton wi
Southern Railway for Greenville.
Nq. 8, daily except Sunday, fro
Walhalla arrives Anderson- 6.24
n., with connections at Senes-a wi
Southern Railway from points. south
No. 10, from Walhalla, leaves An
ierson at 4.57 p. m., for connections
it Belton with Sbuthern Railway for
Greenville and Columbia.
No. 17, arrives at Andersor at 7.50
t. m.. from Belton with connections
No. 9, arrives at Andersm at 12.
p. m., from Belton with con nectio
from Greenville and Columbi.. Go
No. 19. arrives at Anderson at 3.4
p. m., from Belt,)n with connectio
No. 11. arrives at Anderson a
29 p. m., from Belton with co
nections from Greenville and Coln
in. Goes to WlhalIa.
No. ~. dail1y exce pt Sunday. leav
Anderson ait 9.2() a. in., for Walhall
r:ith connectione at Senera for loe
Nos. 17. 18, 19. aind 20 are mix
rins between Anderson aod Belto
Nos. 7 aind 8 are local freig
rains, carryinigr passengers, betw
Anderson and WaIhailla and be
WalIhaIle aw/ 'andersor
Special Prices to close out
Regardless of Cost.
SUJMMER BROS. CO.
NEWBERRY UNION STATION
Arival and Departure of P
Trains-Effective 12.01 A. M.
Sunday May 30, 1909.
o. 1%9 for Columbia .. . .l.440 p
o. 11 for Greenville .. ..2.43
No. 18i for (%flombia."
C.. N. &L.Rv -
No. 22 for Columbia .. .R4
\o. 52 feer Cireenville .. 12.56i p.
No. .-2 feor Colombnia . . . .3.0 p.
'No. 21 for L~uirP:ne . . .7.25 p.
* Does not ran on Sunde
chieb trains may be expreted to de
art from this station. bu!t their d
arture is not senarantee I and
ime shorn i.a an ject to eiange'
FulIl Stock of
at SUMR BROS C0.
ET YOUR GLASSES from Dr.
W. Connor, a graduate of the 1
est optical college ini the world-t
Northern Illinois College of Chi
go Dr. Connor is located per:c
ently in Newberry, gives both'
ob.iective and subjective tests
electricity and guarantees his w
Office over Copeland Brothers.
WAX STRING CANS at
sMMRE BROS. CO.