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(THE REALM OF FASHION. Rovulsion Against Showy and Spectacular Dressing. J'ioiv to Dress the Shoulders?Word? or !^ Wisdom for Short People?A Kevlval of JDrup do Sole?A. New ltrcak f?r t (iown( ICOPYIUGIIT, 1890.] [Special Correspondence] 1 *'Know thysolf!'' is an all important maxim, a guiding principle over to bo received and admitted, especially in the practical concerns of the fashion? able world. Of all tho aims with which nn intelligent woman may undertako |tho art of dressing well, tho most ob jjoctionablo is that of dressing brilliant? ly. Specialties of dress, and even nov XEOLIGEE GOWX. cities, sometimes fail in bein^ success? ful, and there is always more or loss danger of losing sight of what is re? fined and elogant in the pursuit of I what is simply striking. Ou tho other tiand, mero Imitation is not desirable, lor the choice of Bhapcs as well as that of material requires individual taste and judgment, and to ths end every woman tshould understand better than any ono ! else what is best suited to her style and [bearing. Hence, not to know one's self j trcsults in inevitable disaster as regards 1 perfection in dress. If your shoulders are narrow, do not i ?wear sleeves which are flat and upright, put rather balloon-like at the top, and ; above all, avoid puffs at the elbows, nor i "must you have wide trimming around ?the arm-holes of your bodice; yet at the ' ?'atne time be careful not to make your , ?shoulders appear too broad for your | iliips. Study the proportions of your [figure. If your body is too short for : (your height lengthen your waist and twear long-skirted bodices; if the re- ? ?verse, accentuate the perpendicular lines of your skirt and do not take from .the length by having wide bands of trimming around the foot, if you are i short in stature be chary of the long-! hipped cavalier jacket, which is fast j ?gaining ground because it is tho nov city of tho moment. Happily we have stopped out and be- I ryond the limits of old opinions, which were so arbitrary as to seem like is- ! BCrutable laws. Less than a century ] (ago there was but one shapo of bonnet EinmoiDBitisn c loth jacket. and gown for each season, and every ?woman dressed her hair exactly as her neighbor did. Fabrics havo ono and all made their entreo, and wo are now thoroughly familiarized with them, llrocades form a large department by themselves, and rtho newest and richest show a satin groundwork with a detached flower in vvelvct, in relief. These aro predicted as tho material of the next few months, and arc tobe had in tho most beautiful colorings and designs, either of several shudes or interwoven with gold and eilver. Among tho richest is a shell pink moiro and whito and gold brocade, in wide altcrnato stripos, also a black satin ground scattorcd with singlo corn? flowers in their natural colors, and a White silk with a largo pattorn in applo green. A still nowor idea is bengalino, ?with a conventional design of largo and lozenge-shaped spots of black volvot. Cafo au lait is one of tho novel colors, brocaded with flowor sprays of cofTeo eolored velvet In relief. For the quiot taste, not Indifferent to elegance, ?'stormy-sky" gray is a pocu ^ar tint much admired in relief do signs, for which white and s.vor are much employed. Tho silk department is crowded to excess with all tho season's styles, bengalinos, faille Francaiso and Lyons vclvots being tho most fashionablo of tho plain fabrics?velvet and brocado are much combined?velvet for tho bodico or coat and brocado for the skirt, which is invariably severe in its linos. Go whero you will, tweeds of almost every conceivable color, thickness and quality moot tho oye, and for tho mo? ment may be said to reign supremo over any other fabric, and thoy make tho "smartest" of street gowns and coats, and havo the additional advantago of requiring but little trimming, merely braids and passemonterio. There is, however, very little if any change in tho stylo of making, and good i taste is displayed by clinging to tho j simple mode of tho last few months? j viz.: the plain, sheath skirt and well-cut bodico, adorned only by a row of but? tons in front, with long, narrow, habit ; back. Old-fashioned drop dc sote is revived this season, with brilliant llowors on a ' plain ground, much light and brilliancy being imparted by gold and silver out linings. There are, among charming novelties for young Indios' toilettes, Scotch plaid surahs, which are most useful in combination, as well as for sashes, Chemisetts, otc. Ono of tho most desirable shades seen in line wool materials is sea gray, its most harmoni? ous associate color being red. The newest caniel's-hair fabrics aro expensive, but extremely handsome, and the shades offorcd are unlike those of any previous importation There aro what may be called half-tones of blue and green, plum and mulberry purples, and soft tan, almond and biscuit shades ' which combine so handsomely with vel? vet. Among the latest importations aro a large number of combination dresses? these consisting of so many yards of plain and so many yards of fancy ma? terials, which are. likely to be quite the rage. Thero is generally sufficient of tho fancy fabric to make the fronts of the skirl or side panels, and an addition- , al quantity of a very narrow width to serve as a bodico trimming. Many of tho more expensive lengths ore bord? ered with a sort of astrachan, woven apparently with tho material, cut into various shapos, such as Vandyke points, hearts und other designs, above and be? tween these being tilled in with heavy silken embroidery either in mixed', self colors or black. An extremely stylish walking cos? tume is of black serge and wbito cloth, the skirt made in large box-plaitings placed at intervals on a foundation of white cloth, with equal spaces of tho latter show ing bet ween the plaits, tho white being covered from waist to baui IMPORTED HAT. with a lattice wovk made of gold braid | in several widths. For the upper part thero is a trim little coat of serge over j a vest of white cloth braided the same as the skirt, and tho sleeve of black is cut away at tho inner seam from tho olbow downwards to show an insertion of braided white cloth. To coraploto this there is a toquo of poppy-red velvet, flat to tho head, with a black- i bird on top. A gown recently arrived from Paris certainly bears the. cachet of an artist's touch. It is of faced (doth in a shade which can only be described as cinnamon dashed with pink. Tho skirt of (doth is slightly draped and has round tho | hem a border formed of a band of cinna- ; mon satin, brocaded with a largo con- 1 ventlonal design of black velvet, and the long jacket, entirely of the cloth, with rovers of tho same, opens over a tightly-fitting culrasso bodico of tho brocho velvet, which fastens down tho back and well over tho hips, and tho ; gauntlet cuffs are also of velvet. The handsome breakfast gown illus- ! trated is made of pale vioux-roso cash- j mere cut f.R ptincCtiC, the whole front falling in folds from tho neck, and con? fined below the waist with a slanting band of moss-green velvet, vailed with creamy guipure point-lace. A sort of Figaro jacket comes from tho undcr-arm seams and meets just, across the bust. The Medici collar is of the lace over volvot, and a deep cuff of tho same roaches nearly to tho elbow, tho sleeve abovo it being very wide. Tho stylish hat, also illustrated, is ono of the highest novelties. Tho crown la of stone-colored velvet with rim of turquoise blue, and stones aro sot in tho embroidery according tho present mode. Tho foathors aro of atone and turquoise blue. An up-town furrier has come to tho rescuo of thoso who havo short shoul? der capes of fur, either seal or mink, and which do not fill tho requirements of the present mode. He has designed corselet bodices of fur, which, added to culls and tho short capes, afford tho necessary protection to tho body. Polonaises of cloth worn over petti? coats of velvet aro fashionablo again, after a banishment of several years. L'Etoile. ljiillr Undcmtoorl, Gentleman (to beggar)?What ha^ brought you to this condition? Beggar?Sympathy, sor. Oon tloman?Sympathy? Beggar?Yis, sor. A gang o' fool workmen a t'ousand nioiles away wint out on streik, an' thin we sthruck troo sympathy, sor.?Puck. SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY. ?Clinton, In., claims to have the largest saw-mill in tho world. ? Profossor Putnam, in his roport to tho Poabody Museum for tho current year, says man has existed for 10,UUC yours in this country. ?Tho art of making matches has boon so porfected that 10,000,000 of tho tiny sticks can bo cut into shape, all ready for dipping, by ono machiuo in a single day. ?Tho mineral called turfa, or brazoli na, recently discovered in Hahia, fur? nishes an oil akin to petroleum, a paraf line suitable for the manufacture of can? dles, and' a good lubricating oil. ?A new substitute for sulphato of quinino has been found by M. Vahlde in the bark of tho panbotana, a legumin? ous tree of Mexico. Either tho alcoholic tincture or a preparation obtained by maceration has remarkablo effect in fever cases. ?A reportcoinoa from the West of the discovery of a process by which iron ore can ho SO softened by tho concentrated rays'of an are. light as to he worked with a comparatively small amount of labor. If this discovery is confirmed, it may lead to a considerable modification of tho present modes of treating ores. ? The iron industry is rapidly getting into a more satisfactory condition, and, notwithstanding tho fact that the pro? duction of both crude and finished iron is far in excess of any previous record, yet consumption has so far kept paco with it that the market, is nowhere bur? dened with any large accumulation. Prices have eased off somewhat within the past six months, but are gradually becoming firmer, and as the supply is absorbed without difficulty, the outlook Is deemed to be most favorable. ? Boston Advertiser. ? In live years of observation at Lin? coln, New Zealand, Mr. George Gray has found that the amount of impurity washed down from the air by the rain depends more on the number of showers than on the total rainfall. An acre of land at Lincoln receives annually (in '-'6.0 inches of rain) about 1T'.? pounds of dissolved matter, including 60.8 pounds of chlorine, fifteen pounds of sulphuric anhydride, and a little more than two pounds of nitrogen. Noarnoss to tho sea explains the high proportion of chlorine. -Arkansaw Traveler. ?M. tie la Bastic, a French chemist, has. during tho past few years, con? ducted a soriesoof experiments which are said to have resulted in a method of rendering glass sufficiently tough for use in molding many articles hithorto made of iron. On tho strength of this discovery, the hope is indulged that tho huge sub-Atlantic pneumatic tube for | the connection of the Old with tho New World, tho suggestion of which was re? ceived with indilferenco and incred ility some time ago, may eventually turn out to be not so chimerical as at first glanco it was judged to bo. ?The death of Dr. Christiah Henry P. Peters, the celebrated astronomer of Litchfield Observatory. Hamilton Col? lege, onds ono of tho most useful scien? tific careers of our day. Dr. Potors' astronomical work was varied and ex? tensive, Including observations on asteroids, comets, solar spots, and tho mapping of the stellar heavens, llo i discovcrod more asteroids than any other astronomer, the total to'his credit, we believe, being forty-seven. He re corded 12,000 sun spots and catalogued 75,000 zodiacal stars. His star charts | were among the most elaborate over ' published, and contained all the known Stars down to the fourteenth magnitude as far as thirty degrees on each side of the equator, throughout the whole twenty-four hours.?Rochester Herald. ADJUSTABLE SUN DIAL. A Cheap and Reasonably Accurate Sub? stitute for ? Watch, A very simple, but tolerably accurate, sun tlial has been preserved. It is ono made in England in the last century, when they wert; commonly used in cer? tain districts in place of the more ex? pensive (docks and watches. It depends upon the varying hoight of tho sun above the horizon during tho day, and not upon its distance from the meridian, as with an ordinary dial. It consists of three rings, the inner ono moving freely between tho two outer ones. On the outside ring aro en? graved the initial letters of tho months of tin; year, and opposite these, on tho insido, aro the hours of the morning and afternoon.' Tho movable ring is pierced with a small hole. It is evident that if the open in-; in the instrument is turned toward the sun at sunrise, a luminous spot will la; thrown upon the inside of the ring, and as tho sun mounts higher in the sky the; spot will move downward until noon, when it will turn and move up again till sun? set, and it is only nccossary t>> mark the hours where tho light falls during a Singlo day to obtain a ready means of learning tho lime, at least approxi? mately; but a correction is necessary for tho varying height of the sun at dif? ferent seasons of the year, so the ring with the oponing is made movable, and once a month is moved until the open? ing comes opposite tho initial letter of that month. The extreme error of this instrument is not more than fifteen minutes, and it forms a choap and useful substitute for a watch.?Jeweler's Weekly. Iloaril on the street. First Citizen (who has evidently just been to soe "Merchant of Venice.") ? Well, you see tho Jew, when ho found out how it was going, ho backed out. Second Citizen?And lost the money. First Citizen?O, yes; you see it was in this way; sho was in lovo with tho fol? low tho Jew got tho cash for; and when tho timo came to pay, according to tho agroomont, it was etthor pay or cut. Well, the old man, ho hadn't tho money; and tho Jew, ho was bound to have tho pound of flesh: and it looked rough for tho old man. Well, she dressed hersolf In man's clothes and was judge; and says she: ".low. you are right; 1 find it so nominated in tho bond. Rut, Jew, mark you, ono pound of flosh, not one iota more nor less; and if you shed ono drop of blood your goods aro forfeit to tin State." Well, tho .low, ho scon how it was, and ho left. Second Citizen?Protty deep, eh? First Citizen -O, there's some very elegant things in Shakespeare. ?Puck. NEW ENGLAND SHOE AND CLOTHING Arc selling out everything at cost to close business by January. Call Before Stock is, Broken. 112 Commerce Street. nov8-li? .A-T CO Youniaii's liats, known to all, at Colin's; Stetsons' soft and stiff, at Colin's; Silvennan's stiff and silk, at Colin's; Melville soft and stiff, at Colin's, and others too numerous to mention. Double-breasted sack suits at Colin's; double-breasted frock suits at Colin's; single breasted cutaway sacks at Colin's; single-breasted cutaway frocks at Colin's; Prince Alberts and full-dress at Cohu\s; short and stout suits for short men at Colin's; extra length suits for long men at Colin's; extra large suits at Colin's. OVERCOATS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Separate pants all sizes and fabrics. Our fall underwear is now on sale. We carry the American Hosiery Company underwear, besides many other makes. Our neckwear, hose, handkerchiefs, suspenders, etc., are far ahead of all, as usual. Our tailoring depart? ment is on a boom. Don't wait too long to place 3-our order. Save your time and money by visiting our mammoth clothing establishment. You can find anything you want, any price you want, and will certainly have no farther to go. The Salem avenue clothier, tailor and furnisher, No. 44 Salem avenue, Roanoke, Va. E. M. Dawson, Manager. The leading house In Southwest Virginia for OYSTERS We are now serving the celebrated LYNN HAVEN BAY OYSTERS. In every, style?Fried, Stowed. Broiled, etc.. and we make a speclulty of" STEAMED OYSTERS. it. It. WoitTIIAM, Formerly with N. & \V. It. U. E. A. Hi.aki:, , Formerly with N. & W. R. 11. WORTHAM & BLAKE, Real Estate and Insurance Agents, 13 Jeffer? son street, Roanoke, Va. In addition, we have the finest Pool and Billiard Parlor in the State. Ladies' and Gents' Dining Rooms up stairs. OPEN ?LL NIGHT. Chas. J. Ormsby, if Proprietor. FUQUA & BOAZ , PRACTICAL Tinners, Plumbers, Gas and Steam Fitters Heating by Steam. Hot Water or Hot Air Furnaces. HOOFING, QUTTEIUNO, 8POOTTNG. 401 JEFFERSON ST., IIOAXOKB,.TIltOINIA. Estimates cheerfully giver on this iine of work. jeO-Om Lock box 266. Correspondence solicited. novl2-2m W. P. CAMP & CO., Real Estate Agents, Office Times Building. 03 Third Avenue, S. W. A special bargain in a lot corner Patterson avenue and Eight street s. w. Prico 31,800; one-third cash, balance one and two years. It will only bo offc/cd at this price a fewjdays. Call and see us. oot80-lm The new city at the confluence of the Ohio and Pig Sandy rivers, where the three States of West Virginia, Ohio and Kentucky meet. The point at which THE NORFOLK AND WESTERN RAILROAD Is bridging the Ohio River, and connects with the CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO, (Vandorbilt system) The Newport News and Mississippi Valley, the Ohio and big Sandy, and the Ohio River railroads and river navigation lines. The location of the Norfolk and Western railroad shops. A hotel to cost S70.000 is under construction; also a brick and stone union passenger station, two stories high, with restau? rant, while large manufacturing plants are to be erected, owing to liberal in? ducements offered by the association. First limited offering of lots (at, Kenova) Wednesday, November 19, at 10 a.m. Occupies the best natural site in the Ohio valley. sale address For mans and terms of THE KENOVA ASSOCIATION, KENOVA, WAYNE COUNTY, W. VA., Or.I. FI. DINGEE, President, 330 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. Purchase tickets via Chesapeake and Ohio railway reading toCatlettshurg (next station west). novl5.lG.ni