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imart Steamer Togs for the Bermuda Trip Em
broideries Used in Novel Ways Make Lingerie
Frocks Interesting-Gorgeous Evening Gowns
HK call of tin f-'outh makes Itself '
f It in fashionable circles, the 1
mo.nont Christmas week festiv- I
tiles are over. .Society may ro-
m.iin a week or two in town for tho
early Januar weddings and may even
linger on until the end of the month
if the Northern season Is particularly
g.iy and the opera particularly Inter- ,
eating, but preparations for the llit
Mii" are being made nevertheless, and
wwiti nt I 'i f .in tint unitlnl rlmrntnn Ic
whisked .Southward on a train de
luxe or carried there, more slowly by
st imer.
Kvi rybody Is In such a. fever, now,
to sec the Panama Canal before tho
water fills up th.- wonderful channel
the mammotl engineering leat of the
century that bookings on the steam
ers are all taken up for weeks to
come. The climate of Panama do
me nds tlu flimsiest of apparel. Add
ed to tho Inton ,e heat there Is a worse
humidity than one feels on the most
"muggy" .slimmer day in New York,
and what one requires for tho I 'an
il in a trip is white raiment and a
plenty of it, for seldom may a frock
bo worn pure than once or twice with
out a visit to tho laundres.
Tho Bermuda, trip attracts many
others because of the rest and tonic
to Jaded nerves resulting from the
sea voyage and the absolute unlet ob
tainable in th "Blessed Isles" as they
have beei. called by tired out folk who
went there for recuperation. At Ber
muda one requires nn outfit such .is
would ho needed for a tolerably cool
summer in the North linen frocks,
a serge or nuiini-i iNuntiiK suu, inning
togs, a few thin dresses and some
evening (towns, simple or elaborate as
one plenties. Those who sail away for
tho P.lvlera, will supply themselves
inoro or less elaborate finery accord
ing to their plans. Tho trip up tho
Nile will require one sort of raiment:
slghtseolng t.long tho Mediterranean
mother, and a prolonged stay at
Monaco quite another.
Palm Beach is of course tho Riviera
of America and thither the fashion
ables repair after tho nervo-exhaust-ing
winter season and there, again,
tho round of social gaieties is taken
up with new .est becauFO of tho
change of background and the exlill-!
nratlon of thi strong feiv breezes, j
i
Knibrolilcry a Venture of l.lnxorlo i
Frocks I
Iaee must tako second place r.s a
trimming for summer froc.s this year,
for cmbrolderlefi have come into their
own nnd aio lavishly used as trim
mings for exclusive costumes. Tlio
new embroideries are patterned after
bold, open-patterned laces of tho Ital
ikf M mm
m.j mm.
mm '
Vootwcar For
ian variety, the Colbert and Itichelleu
designs having all tho r.umtituous qual
ity fit rich Venise. These now em
broideries are used in novel and orig
inal ways 1)3' the couturiers and tho
frocks trimmed with them do not
at all suggest tho jeunne llllo eos
tumo called to mind by tho Idea of
ordinary embroidery llounces and
bandings. Four embroidery trimmed
drosses h.ivo been sent over from
Paris for a young matron who has nn
importnnt place in the smart sot. Two
of these pretty dresses are from Lan
vinn who excels In lingerie models:
ono Is from Jeanne Ilallee and tho
fourth hails from Talbot. Tho L.an
vinn models are quite dissimilar, one
being pure white and the other having
color in Its make-up. The white frock
has a tunic of allover eyelet embroid
ery dropped over a petticoat of shadow
lace. The tunic slants, not from front
to back, but from the right hip to
the left knee. The bodico is a sur
plice drapery of the allover embroid
ery over elbow sleeves of shadow lace.
inal ways by the couturiers and tho El JlMit-Mi: jj V. S 3& l?!!
A crushed girdle of changeable bluo
and green taffeta divides the tunic.
Tho second l.anvinn frock is of
sheer white cotton voile flouncing with
an embroidered border pattern done
in color- a new note in machine em
broideries and a very beautiful one,
too. The l.anvinn frock shows em-'
broideries In heliotrope and palo bluo !
on the sheer voile ground and there I
Is a sash of hcliotropo and rose shot
taffeta with a Hat how across tho back
ami two rather short ends falling,
one over tho other. This frock has
two flatly applied llounces nnd a
draped surplice bodico opening at
front and back over V shaped vests
of lllot lace.
Tho costume from Ilallee Is Intended
for dinner wear rather an Innova
tion It seems to trim an evening gown
with machine embroidery, but the
new embroidery patterns will change
all former sartorial traditions because
of their beauty and distinction. This
Ilallee gown has a draped tunic of
(lowered net over a clinging skirt of
white satin, tho crossed-ovcr front of
tho tunic being bordered obliquely from
waistline to end of train with a broad
band of Colbert embroidery. The
bodice is made of this embroidery
mounted on wldte tullo and blousrs
slightly at tlie w.ilhtllno over a sash
of crushed while tullo with long tullo
eiida at tho back, weighted with
crystal fringe.
The Talbot frock has also a tunic
edged with embroidery banding or
double-edged galloon; mechlln laco
being applied llatly under tho edge of
tho galloon nt both sides. This tunic,
of white net, bordered with galloon,
opens widely in front over a skirt of
if
Buy Ami i:ciiliig.
accordion pleated not. Tho bodice Is
of tho not and bands of tho galloon arc
carried over tho shoulders, continuing
tho line of the tunic. The long sleeves
of shirred not have closely set crystal
buttons from shoulder to wrist and
another line of the buttons extends
down, the front of tho dress from
throat to foot. The sash Is of rose
colored satin and a hat trimmed with
roses accompanies tho pretty dress.
Whlto Tailored Wear for the South
land. r-ivery woman who goes to Palm
! Beach or Aiken for n prolonged stay
should have with her a well cut, not
1 too formal trotabout taillour which
will bo about the most useful item
of her wardrobe. This suit mav he
made of lightweight serge, of mohair
or of the worsted and mohair, which
I rench couturiers make much Use (if
I for gowns and coat suits to bo worn
u,i uu mviera, nunc lanoreii frocks'
Lsj'llJe Thinp&JYoled on jp
T1K woman who goes about in.
wardrobe - provision systemat
ically, makes .sure, first, that the
staples thereof aro correctly In
keeping with current modes, that her
tailored suit, for Instance, Is correctly
cut; that her hats have the right lines
oven though made of Inexpensive ma
terials; that her wardrobe Is suitably
planned for tho requirements of her
social needs. Then she takes caro to
havo exactly the proper sort of ac
cessories to glvo tho mainstays of her
costume tho final touch of modisli
ness with small belongings up-to-tho-moment
In character.
Tho Now York woman who dresses
well studies first the now fashions as
displayed In tho shops or consults her
dressmaker and tailor If she Is so
situated that they may be given carte
blanche In tho matter of materials.
But for her accessories tho little
things that count so enormously In
tho sum total of smartness, sho re
lies usually on style Inspirations
caught In the fashionable restaurants
and on Fifth Avenue, the promenade
of the elect, where any line after
noon may bo observed scores of well
dressed women whoso costumes cover
the gamut nf correctness, from well
appointed shopping raiment to tho
most elaborate carriage toilettes. Tho
out-of-town woman, living near New
York also comes Into town to study
tho authoritative modes of Fifth Ave
nue. Her morning Is spent In tho
shops. Sho lunches nt a smart res
taurant. Afterward perhaps comes n
matlnoe, and later, tea nt onu of ihe
luxurious tea places where fashion
congregates; and after that a stroll up
or down tho Avemio with tho throng
of other folk who promenade at this
hour, in twenty minutes, at the just-boforo-dusk
period ono may unto
overythlng that Is new In neckwear,
tho very latest fashion of tying the
veil, what lu worn In the way of
boutonnleres, tho sort of furs alfected
by devotees of tho mode, tho boots
and gloves affected by thoso whoso
Tulle HaLTpiUs Becomingly
oii8do.e
of agaric, shown among wearables for
the Southland, are very modern and
chic, although extremely simple in de
sign. They have very slightly draped
skirts attached to long-sleeved bodices
limit. r untln flnlln ir Kmnrl c-hlt.i
i,..it a vm-e i.ii.n i;ni.nwi-..
.oIIm.- nf white satin tlnlshex the unci.
and there are Hat buttons of white
ln'ii'l nr hall buttons of thi erenmv
Roman pearl on tho bodice front and
the sleeves.
Jennie. ,ui ki I't in line with t
in mint s whim of fashion, tho walk
"f the hour, a ' so on.
At the present moment, the .sil
houette of every fashionably gowned
woman is much tho same, a skirt
ami coat costume will bo the general
typo of garb, for wraps and utility
coats aro not worn In the nfternoon
hour on Fifth Avenue unless ono Is In
a llmouflno or motor car. Those who
stroll on tlie pavement wear coat
suits of Ivet, of woolbacked satin,
of corduroy or of some very silky
surfaced worsted fabric. Tho skirt
will undoubtedly be draped and will
have a clinging effect around tho feet,
the boots showing beneath being
dainty in line and having buttoned
tops of dull Kid. twilled cloth or light
colored suede. The coat will be in
the cutaway or "Dicky Blnl" styl- or
may have a fancirul cut tho belted
Kusslan blouse coat Is being affected
by young girls and slender women
at tho moment. Handsome furs of
pointed fox, skunk, red fox, chinchilla
Hqulrrel, moleskin, or opossum may In
worn with tho graceful suit, or there
may be simply 11 llul0 turned down
collar of fur with a big, soft muff to
match. It will bo tho exceptional
woman who docs not carry a mulT.
Very few mannish gloves of kid in
tho reddish brown shades will be ob
served, though ono may seo white
glace kid, buff Vclil, gray mocha,
washable white doeskin and black
glaco gloves stitched with tiny lines of
Tho hat will undoubtedly bo small;
' for though largo hats aro worn this
! winter, they ore nt worn with the
promenade costume as a rule, the
I stnnll, even very small, typo of hat
being considered much more chic;
and an ostrich plume, or Jierhaps two
I will curl over almost every hat-brim.
nt ono side. Over Hie small, chic hi
,..m he dralv'J 'i '"Co voll of tl.
fashionable hhadow or sliotlaud mesh
pruferubly taupo In color, though
soino Very smart looking women who
x-iifci t aut;
A new model which will assuredly
bo taken up for spring wear. Is shown
in the pretty afternoon costume from
Hedfern which has a most coquettish
scalloped jacket over a draped skirt
of contrasting silk. The j.iunt.i littlo
coat Is mado of violet taffeta, tho skirt
I lu.lnir of white mill vlnl.-t slrlneil fou-
lard. This skirt Is sllshtly draped at
th. h.iel; nml Is eilrrpil with a boY-
pleated ruillo of tho violet tnffeta
I piped with the striped material on the
i, . .tl for bV.cU and whlto a good deal
.He wearing small black velvet hats
and white sheiluml veils-, tho touch of
v.hito being repeated In a white flow
er pinned against the small fur col
lar or largo fur neckpiece,
This brings ono to tlie fad for
boutonnieres. Kvcry smartly dressed
woman now weais a boutonnlere of
one bol t or another and the tinier the
cluster of posies, and the brighter tho
color, the more fashionable tho effect.
Flame red geraniums aro excessively
fashionable and aro having a tro
mendous voguo as fur boutonnieres
that Is, tiny nosegays pinned against
tho fur of cellar, neckpicro or muff;
but thoso who dlsliko so brilliant a
color, wear nosegays of small yellow
flowers, of pink Knglish marguerites,
of mignonette or of old fashioned he
liotrope Violets are seen In the real
Small Collarette More Dlstlnsulahctl
'i'liuii His Vur Neckpieces.
bias. Flounces and ruffles are to bo
much used on next summer's skirts.
If the clothes now being made up for
the Southland arc truq prophets. Tho
,.n1M!nn. hlua nlntnrMi nrn n. feteh-
ti nil miun" .... .t....w ,
lug note of the violet silk jacket and
ono must not pass by tho no v box
pleated sleeve effect, nor tho grace-'
ful fichu drapery of lace. A white
straw turban faced with pale violet
velvet and trimmed with purple and
i white wings matches tho frock. The
parasol Is of tucked white silk with
a violet stained handle. The buttoned
boots are of dull calf with suedo tops
In pale gray ilor. I
Picturesque Ilcndjienr a Harbinger of
I Spring. i
The Southland hats arc enchanting.
For the most part they have tho airy 1
grace and broad lines that have been
denied In the chic, but small hats of
the winter season. Two typical Palm '
Beach hat types are pictured; ono the 1
big black hat with a pleated frill of!
1 black tullo extending beyond tho brim,
and the other, the charming hat which j
accompanies tho lingerie dress of em
broidery and lace. This hat Is of
palo pink satin straw faced under '
tho brim with palest pastel violet
satin. Around the low crown Is a
wreath of pale pink and violet roses,
a bow of black velvet ribbon at tho '
back having ends which aro brought
under the brim as shown In tho pic- ,
ture, tho two ends apparently meet- ,
ing under a pink rose from whence
drop long streamers of tho black vel
vet. Another charming hat is shown
with the evening wrap of silk and
lace designed for wear nt Palm Beach.
Tho wrap is a modlshly draped affair
of night blue crepo de chine with a
flatly npplled flounco of black chan
tllly sewn with stoel beads. The drap
ery of black laco at sleeve-edge and
shoulder, falls over a drapery of nar
i n-hin le. The wrao is un-
' lined nnd Is very soft nnd clinging in
effect, the satin band at tlie loot giv
ing it sufficient weight. 'With this ad
mirable summer-weight wrap goes a
picture hat of bluo satin straw trim
med with blue velvet ribbon and small,
old-pink roses. The crown Is of heavy
macrlmo laco, laid over old-pink satin.
Tho bluo of tho hat harmonizes with
tho rich, night-bluo shade of tho
wran. both hnvlnir a sllghtlv green
ish tone. Pure navy shades aro not l
fashionable any more thus decrees i
Paris. Whethor Paris has becomo '
blossoms, for these flowers are uni
versally adored by women, but for
some reason or other Imitation violets
aro under tho ban and aro not con
sidered good taste.
Tho whlto silk Shetland veil pictured
I is of a typo liked for cold, blustery
days, for theso veils ns well as being
fascinatingly becoming, aro very
warm. Tho veil in question hns a
"beauty spot" of black velvet which
conies at ono corner of tho mouth and
gives a very piquant expression to tho
face. This veil is smartly adjusted
Tlie Handbag That Cannot Ho Grabbed
Hy a Thug.
over tho small toquo of gold lace, tho
paradise algret at tho side sweeping
downward at a particularly smart
angle and not bnin,, confined under
tho closely drawn veil.
Handbags are smaller and daintier
than of yore and the leather bag
handsomely mounted Is now smarter
than tho reticule of fanciful material
slung from cords for afternoon use
at least. Illustrated, Is a new bag of
red imfllan leather with a handle
which Is strapped to tho wrist an
admirable arrangement these days of
holil-uos and handbag-snatching on
tired of the eternal navy blue, or
whether a radical change In color
schemo Is deemed advisable, one can
not say, but at any rate, almost mi
navy blue costumes are being turned
out for Southern wear. Brown Is ex
tremely fashionable, green follows,
gray la another favored shade, gold
tones are a fad; and blues aro seen
in tapestry, gendarmo and Wedge
wood tints; but tho serviceable, be
coming, admirable navy Is for the mo
ment under the ban and must bids
Its time until a more propitious sea
son. Gorgeous r.vcnlnc Gowns for tho
Ponclaim Hall Hooin.
A new note In evening gowi j Is thf
uso of accordion pleating. Manj
gowns just completed for Palm Beach
wear show draped tunl- of gold lac
or bead-embroidered nc, 'er narrow
skirts of accordion pleavrd chiffon
satin or crepe. Much gold lace it
used, and yards of crystal and rhlne
stono trimming make tho gowns o
simplest cut distinguished and brll
liant. The evening costume plcturei
has a tunic of gold laco over peac'i.
pink charmeuse. Tho laco drapery
is drawn over a bolero of mauve hat '
on the bodice and tiny pink satin ret
decorate bodico and sleeve. The f)rl
ental cap of jeweled, latticed bands
particularly modish, for these gilt c
lng taps are tho rage, and arc fash
ioned of jeweled not, bead en'bre idc r 1
net and lace, nnd pearl-sewn silver
and gold net. The cap pictured has
an upstanding ornament of the shape
of n pink ostrich plume.
Outlii'i Togs u Part of the Wardrobe,
A bathing suit for delightful mid
winter bathing in the balmy Southerr
waters, and suitable outing togs for
other sports are an Important part
of tho Southland outfit. The girl who
rides will be suro to tako with her
a cross-saddlo habit, very smart In
every detail. A riding habit of this sort
just sent home, has a knee-length
covert coat with riding breeches to
match nnd a loose white silk riding
shirt and stock. Boots and puttees
aro of tho new tan leather which will
not become stained when wet an ex
cellent leather for horseback use sinco
the moisture of tho horse's flesh Is apt
to stain an ordinary tan boot. Theso
tan boots are worn also for golf and
tramping and come in laced stylo and
in the smart new English stylo with
very low heel and five Inch buttoned
top.
The lU'aul.v-Spn! ell Amlacloiii
Hut Chic.
dark street corners.
Tho small, closely fitting collarette
of fur or ostrich is very chio jusi
now and gives tlie final touch of cor
rectness to nn nfternoon costume
With such n collarette, tho tailored
coat fastens closely up nt tho throat
and when the coat Is removed In tho
nter or restaurant tho collarotto la
i often retained for tho sake of Its
smartness.
Boots are an important Item of tho
costume, these days of clinging skirts,
and the woman who dresses well has
a dozen pairs at least, for day and
evening wear. In tho morning, on
Fifth Avenue, ono notes tan bootB
very smartly cut boots on tho now
Knglish last, with long lines and ver
low heels and buttoned tops only
llvo Inches high. In the aftornooni
black boots are worn. The illustra
tion sho- a typical street walking
boot with buttoned cloth top, two
evonlng slippers and a buttoned boot
of white suedo for wear In tho even
ing with light gowns.
