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MORE CIVILIZED OR LESS? EDITED BY Some Words About: Hosiery s o OME wear the sort Illustrated here. Some do not. Person- with tho snakes gracefully rwlnlng nround the ankles, even hough our sex la supposed to havo a natural aversion to tho scaly, shiin norlng, twisting serpent. Then thero Is the watch! No cx :uso for William to remain pant tho Is reminded ot tho pictures of this sumptuous historical porsonnge In all the modern footwear. The dainty feet In tho center of tho Illustration are clad In patent leather pumps, with buckles of cold Hllgreo to match tho anklets. Upon the extreme right Is a very smart pair of hose. There aro oblong inserts of laco over tho ankleo, which, while not a new Idea, la . very charm ing one. Shoes and hosiery should bo selected with care as to both comfort and ap pearance. Fashion permits much lib erty, hut tho woman of good taato will be conservative. Kvery eccentricity ex asperates defects and minimizes shape liness and trlgneKs. Stockings should bo half a size large to accommodato tho foot as It spreads with tho weight upon It, and for the name reason tho nhoo should be of pllablo material. Black In both ho slory and shoes Rives the best effect, but, since colors are In vogue, it Is wise to compromise on plain color and plain weaves. For those whose foot are Irrltatod by Hlllc thero are cotton footed silk stock ings. White footed hose aro prcfor abla to either. All cheaper grades of hosiery should be washed In soda and water beforo being worn. Shoes property fitted will hold tho feet In a firm grasp, with tho pressuro uniformly distributed. The sole will bo Just broad enough to serve ns a foundation. Tho heel will be of mod erate height and placed beneath tho pOIKET was tho first to Introduce tho wearing of barbaric Jewelry, but this la now getting more popular every day. Tho most wonderful lumps (they really aro lumps) of Jado, am bor, turquoise, matrix, amethyst, coral and such llko decorative stones aro hung round tho neck by a slender cord of colored Hllk, and perhaps a tassel of multicolored silk is suspended from the end of tho stone as a finishing touch. Brooches, earrings, rings and, In fact, all Jewelry worn with thesu nock chains must bo In the sarno bar baric stylo, and hero again, needless to say, tho dress must bo sufficient! original to suit tho Jewelry. Tho rage for amber necklaces has, 11 posslblo, Increased, though the boadi for the most part aro larger and mor lumpy than formerly. Flat, dlskllko pieces ot brightly col orod stones, somo as largo as silver dollar pieces, threaded with silk, form a quaint novelty to wear with a pretty blouse or frock, but caro must bo taker when wearing this original Jewelry t avoid tho addition of any moderi pieces. Kven a small brooch may qult( spoil tho arttatlo efTcct of tho whol costume jll IF 4J . ff. rundown heel Is unpardonable und un- Ak (W! ;f ' 'i? P PrSii lftl$fEM Bnift'R mistake to buy shoes longer jWM&M IN ' ' i ' 'F MtZM$'&T k k Wf?0MW$ and narIower than the feet In order SpAMs. " - H m'SM vf-v-A z'i) . MlwffMW t0 mnko the lntter nPPC"r slender, for W ' JW ' W tmMmM t&TkUi LhV m&-$m?M? the h"" of the feet, where there Is ,iPW ' VV r&S . ' ::::1 greatest breadth, aro forced out of MJM & Fft- f- JSJy Place and Into the narrowing toes. It is AWI V '41 VrtftKril W?MM$W equally a mistake to wear shoes too WSl'mM ' f ' Wi wmw Tsgv V'mM? larKe- for tho MttinK -about ot the vmS y ?: WM$r AA-$S WMifS feot wiU causo ca,Iouses and hlistera. U f ffpr Shoes, like other apparel, should lit so ffSf V W j perfectly that the wearer Is not re- l&J t ' t minded of their presence. afij NO LONGER YOUNG f Wf wltchlna: hour, for my lady has only to put her best foot forwurd, and thero Is the time confronting him. und ho must of course depart, though unwill ingly. Upon tho extreme left Is pictured a pair of hose bizarre In the extreme, but which would havo a certain charm for evening wear. Brilliants and Jet are tho decorations chosen for this pair made of very fine black silk. In the center is shown a pair of very Iheer silken hose. About the nlender xnkles are clasped gold flligreo an tlota, quite a la Cleopatra. Indeed, ono YEOMEN who are no longer young und slender often complain bit terly that their requirements are ut terly Ignored by the designers of fash ionsand with considerable reason, for. as a rule, fashion drawings depict Bltner youthful and radiantly lovely rlrls or curious, attenuated creatures I whose languid and often distorted at titudes suggest physiques so feeble ' lhat they aro incapable of supporting I jven tho flimsiest garments. I It is fatal for a woman of mlddlo ngo' lo affect youthful or extreme styles; ' they will only render her grotesque. 1 Dignity allied to grace must he her lm, achieved by a careful choice of! solor and 'line." If she lo wealthy! FOR WOMEN WHO ARE enough to get her gowns from first rate tailors and modistes she will havo no personal responsibility, as such artists evolve special designs for each gramio dame among their clientele with delightful results. Fabrics of beautiful quality, but of unobtrusivo color and design, should bo tho rule, avoiding especially colored stripes and checks. Ulnck with white, ivory or antique tinted laco always looks well, also dark blue, tho warmer tint of navy, and for tailor costumes gray la usually a safe color; Iron gray for hard wear suits, perhaps, with a very narrow lino of b'ack at inch wide Intervals. Stripes of this order give an effect of slendemess when properly handled steel or silver gray for more ceremonious occasions. Slatu stay should bo avoided, as It adds to tho ap parent size of the figure. Black or navy serge with n narrow white lino or for summer wear cieam with black or dark blue linos is also advisable, al ways provided it Is thoroughly well cut. Kven more Important than color Is tho cut of the costume. Long, grace ful lines should be sought, following those of the figure easily, but without accentuating them, avoiding any sug gestion of tightness and also undue bag glness. Loose, vague coatees with ec centric basques, floppy blouses or wide dinped belts uro not for the older wo- i man. The skirts of even'ng and cere monial gowns should always be traln , ed and without any suggestion of tightness round the anklf-3. If a skirt Is draped up thero should bo a pllsso underskirt of lace, brocaded gauze or any other handsome and suitable fabric. Hard wear tailor gowns must, of course, have short skirts, fitting easi ly over the hips and of comfortable width at tho foot, perhaps with a little kilted panel at each side of the front breadth, tho coat semllltting, with ! basques shaped away In front and considerably longer at tho back. If thero Is any belted effect at all It isliould bo at the back only. Tunics should bo similarly fashioned, always with tho Idea of producing a long lino,' sweeping away from the curved front to tho long back. Coats and cloaks for afternoon and evening wear should be of a loose, picturesque order, but not too "fussy." The new plain and ample grando mante does not suit the Juno type of woman, nnd if It Is worn at all It should bo of tho 1 shape that Is much shorter at tho I front than the back. Many of the olaborato wraps, with the fullness brought Into a shaped Ilounco nnd draped up to form loose sleeves, are extremely becoming, but tho giant ruche trimmings seen on somo of these should be avoided. INTRICATELY DRAPED AT BACK. T HAT thero seems to bo no diminution In tho fancy for bustle effects In Tar. . .v.v..t.v.i vjj .iwn iv-uiu uuiicui ju.ii mm pi e tea ior wear at 1 TOU vllle. Whlto tango crape is the material, In combination with colored crape o. the same kind embroidered by hand. The hemstitched hem on the coat la et. foctlve. White buttoned boots show below the narrow skirt. (titoiinttaoettiioei9iio : To Be a Perfect Hostess 5 " n TUIE perfect hostess tries as far na possible to leave the entertainment or her guests in their own hands, mak ing It her duty to study the prefer ences of those she has Invited under her roof. She does not ask them to arise at unusual hours or to drive, wa'k or play tennis when they prefer to do other things. At English country homes tho cus tom of visiting has a certain system connected with it. Guests are asked for a specified number of days and aro sxpected to leave on the morning of the day the visit ends. In an English homo a. guest who ar rives after tho luncheon hour seldom lees the hostess until the tea gather ing or possibly not until the diners as semble. A well trained maid conducts the guest to her room upon arrival, In forms the newcomer of the family din ner hour and perhaps serves tea or some simple refreshment. Tho American hostess, however, manages her establishment in a less ceremonious manner. Sho usually drives or motors to meet tho frlund, and, though sho may havj a retinue of servants, she is very apt to conduct tho Kiiest to her room. Before retiring for tho night tho hostess usually Informs her guests that horses or motors will bo at their dis posal In tho morning and perhaps ar ranges a tennis or clock golf tourna ment for thoso who enjoy these sports. She also finds out whether they pre fer to have tho morning meal In their rooms or on tho veranda with other guests and also mentions tho luncheon hour. The mistress of a homo making many demands upon her time usually likes to have the mornings to herself, fcnd she can do this .with an easy con science when she knows that the en tertainment of her guests has been latisractoruy provided for by allowing them to walk, sew, wrlto letters or do anything else they may wish to do. On the other hand, tho guest who Wishes to be popular has her part to play. Naturally she yill not intrude npon her hostess' privacy or upset ar rangements by being Into for meals, and she will avoid all unpleasant topics' nd carry away no petty gossip. PERFECTLY GOOD ECONOMY. JSOT every mother knows that she can malto perfectly good rompers for the buby out of her husband's old colored uhlrts. No matter how expensive the ma terial of which the shirt Is made, It soon rubs through at tho collar, leaving the rest ot the garment practically unworn. Tho material Is much moia expensive ind usually prettier than the olinm tiray or clni-'O" wiiich tim averago mother buys for the rompers which golng-on-two wears regardless of sex. There Is a saving of time as well as material, for the pattern may be so laid on thnt tho buttons down tho front of the shirt come at tho back of tho rompers. This loaves only the button holes In tho seat to bo made. Tho llt- tlo sleeves etimi out of the hlg ones. By taking c.tre to niaVe them long enough In the seat the rompers may bo outworn and outgrown at tho same time. Another advantage Is that In winter they accommodato the baby's skirts. On hot summer days these may bo dispensed with entirely. Chic Cap and Dainty Chemisette ,,... , . . . -y,?. ' , i-V r; Is If SfflM 1 " : "-'-p I -' '' : ' ; JiIUS pretty cap Is built of not and lace, with a Hat, pump bow of ribbon across the front. At the sldeB aro Jaunty rosettes of tho net and laco, giving the broad effect so much ndmlred. Tho handsome chomlsolto Is developed In the finest batiste, having ns a garnltuni teal Valenciennes edging nnd Insertion, further ornamented with fine embroidery in a handbomo Murguurito design. These chemlsutteu llulkh wonderfully u plain oveiblouao, iioitttieteoiiiniKiiitto j Hints For Railroad Trip I fJMIE mother who undertakes a rail road trip of any great length with two or three hot and restless little children will find the experience a memorable one unless she makes care ful provision for It beforehand. Drosses of dark gingham or foulard with bloomers to match should he pro vided to take the place ot daintier but too easily soiled garments. It Is well to take along two or three milliner's paper bags if the trip is to be mado in a day coach, and then hats may be dis carded at onco and yet kept fresh. Drinking cups aro not provided on most trains, but they tako up little room and are an absoluto necessity from some source, bo at least ono should bo carried. If lunch Is carried paper plates should he provided, with paper napkins. Sandwiches will keep much fresher If they ure wrapped in oiled paper. It Is in the long afternoon, when even tho ever changing panorama of tho win dow haa begun to pall a little, that real entertainment for tho children must be thought out. "Traveling man's casino" will vary tho scenery Interest ingly. In this gamo each animal has a certain count. One child takes one side of tho train and another the oth er, counting up each animal passed to reo which wins In tho course of a given time. A box of bends, which are not diffi cult to string in spite of tho Jolting of the train, will Insure furthor poaco. Two or three pairs of blunt pointed scissors with tho magazines that the mother has brought along to read will lend themselves to a game of ' house, each child selecting a room to I furnish and cutting out appropriate fittings for It. People to live in the ' llnllUA tmlL' lit. n(llll.ll .InH ....... I W..V.. .... --....v.., .t,,w UUII1CU UlllU tho third nnd fourth generation. It Is a slrnplo matter to Invent Interesting family histories for them. A box of animal crackers la useful. Coustunt eating of fruit and candy is apt to upset digestions that already hnvo to withstand tho motion of the train, but tho cracker nnlmals provide harmless refreshment and entertain ment. In splto of tho Ingenuity of tho mold makers tho Identity of tho nnl inal3 Is always a source of pleasurable uncertainty nnd discussion. Whero tho trip Is to be mado by wa ter Instead of by rail the case la en tirely reversed except In bad weather. Tho only difficulty Is In keeping tho children from climbing over the rail or making undesirable acquaintances. One mother solved the first problem by tying a long rope securely about her twn-year-old baby. When tho rope slackened sho know ho was In somo one's Jap, but sho gave up trying to find out whose. Frocks For Mother and Daughter 1 f . For a Summer Luncheon i A SUMMER luncheon may consist of a salad and a dessert with cake The salad suggested Is an especiallj delicious one: Cold Consomme. Chicken Salad Mayonnaise. Prune Soufllo. Lady Flngor. Tea. Chicken Salad. Cold roast or boiled chicken, two let., tuces, a little endive, one cucumber, a. few slices boiled beetroot and salad dressing. Trim neatly the chicken cutting Into uniform dice pieces Wash, dry and slice the lettuces with a silver knife, place In the middle of dish, put the pieces of fowl on top and pour tho salad dressing over them. Garnish the edge with hard boiled eggs cut In rings, slice cucumber and boiled beetroot, first cut in slices, then In strips or straws. This salad should be kept In a cold place until wanted at table. Sufficient for four or five. Salad Dressing. Ono teaspoonful of mixed mustard. ono teaspoonful of powdered sugar, two tablespoonfuls of salad oil, four tablespoonfuls of milk, two tablespoon fuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt tc taste. Put the mixed mustard Into a salad bowl with the sugar, add the oil drop by drop and carefully mix them well together. I'roceed In this manner with tho milk and vinegar, which must be boiled very gradually or tho sauca will curdle. Put In the seasoning. This dressing is delicious if properly mado and Ingredients added very gradually, and It cannot be stirred too much. Prune Souffle. Soak overnight ono pound prunes Stew, stone, sweeten and mash. Heal tho whites of eight eggs very stiff. Gradually boat In prunes. Put in pud ding dish and buko fifteen minutes. Serve with whipped cream. Lady Fingers. Ono 'cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, two eggs, one-quarter cup ful of milk, one pint of Hour, ono tea spoonful of soda, ono and a quartet teaspoonfuls ot vanilla, add a little suit Cut In strips, roll In sugar and balu In quick oven. 0? fJUlE gowns Illustrated hero aro very chic summer models especially suitable mi in. ii. . n.-i.i uaa u iiuiuuy aim ner uauguier aro traveling. Cotton frocks aro uaod almost exclusively this year for traveling and morning wear. RETAIN THE JUICE IN YOUR PIE NI3 way ot retaining Juices In pio in addition to wetting the edge ol tho under crust, Is to bind tho edge ot the pio Just before putting In oven with a piece of muslin a little mora than an Inch wide which has been wet In cold water. Instead of putting the sugnr on top of tho fruit In all npplo and fruit p'.ca try putting It on the bottom crust, mixed with a unall portion ot Hour, no cordlug to the Juiciness of your fruit