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Fort Worth weekly gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.) 1882-1891, December 25, 1890, Image 5

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn86088529/1890-12-25/ed-1/seq-5/

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THE WEEKLY GAZETIB FOUT WORTH TEXAS THURSDAY DECEMBER 25 9
iSk = fefci 3k 4
TMENT
EDITED JiY 3TBS M B WALTON
Pcbushfrs Notice All commuiilcitlons intended for this department shonldbe addressed to
> ps M II Waltox Foil Worth Tex
And cradled there In the scented hay
In the air made nwect by the breath of kme
The little child in the manner lay
Tie child that would be klnfr one day
Of a kingdom not human bnt divine
Longfellow
The children of men at whatever age
are best taught by realism and In this
busy practical everyday world of ours
sentiment id apt to be forgotten It la
therefore well that Christians comes once
n year to call oil sordid thoughts and al
low for even a short space the tenderer
chords ot nnturo to vibrate as memory
wakes them
Nineteen hundred years ngo when
ibepherds watched their Hooks by
nicht was penned a scroll that brought
pood tidings and a star shone out the
llxbt of whiob has never been quenched
but shines and will continue to sbmo
unto the perfect day Down the aces
tomes the echo of the joyful shout that
lintels then sounded Peaco on earth
pood will to men an echo that enters
homes and quickens heart throbs The
note that was loosed In heaven makes
melody on earth and at Christmas tide
joy and gladness abound Wreaths of
holly branches of mistletoe opportunely
placed Christmas trees bendlnr with
ileavy hurdens all betoken that in these
homes there is love and jollity
In all perfect pictures light and shade
have place what says the angel song
Peace and good will Then what
better lime to lilt n shadow from heart
or hearth than Christmas time A
triemlihip has cooled u slight mUunder
etonding has crept In comrades once
are almost strangers now why not
peace Why not some llttlo token
even from the one who is aggrieved
which may serve to rivet again that
whioli has been severed
Good will to men There are
homes In which today there is neither
holly or miatletoo nor eouud of jollity
not even tho spnllo ot plenty homes that
ure dark because of bereavement that
are chill aud desolate because want fills
tho space of better ttiiues
The wise men brought gifts to the
fclag they brought kingly gifts but to
a king who said to his eubjeots that a
cup of rold water In His nume will not
go unrewarded The motive clorllles
the deed A growing plant sent to an ln
viilid a warm shawl or jaoket to a hard
working or aged woman a toy to a child
who has been counted of a childs high
est pleasure these und kindred remem
brances to those whose joys are few or
whoso Christinas portion is not meas
ured by plethorlo purses belong properly
to a seiutou that celebrates tho birth of
II nn who went about doing good
It la n pretty custom at this time to
decorate the churches to sing praises in
Grander nobler strains than on other
days but these customs are meaningless
unless ns the devout worshippers kneel
lhey think of some one they cun that
dnv make happy if on CbrLtmus day
they do not forget nil grudges and envy
lnira nnd are rendy to extend a friendly
rasp to those from whom it has beon
withheld If in the giftmaking they fail
to heed the lesson that was taught when
C ts were laid at the feet of a helpless
poor humble little Child lying in a
maimer yet guarded by heavenly hoists
rs are his poor followers in earths low
est station
A word on gift making Do not make
the cift expressionless let it express in
dividuality and speak a sentiment that
mil need no interpretation It often
IiiDpens that a dainty trille speaks more
of tifTtHUoii than the costliest offering
localise it tolls of consideration for jour
tmte or your faucies and if it represents
lnbor or puiuetakine It is more uluable
limn Kheu representing money only
Then loo there is grace In the ac
ceptance It is uot every one who kuows
how to receive a gift Because ome
wealthier person than yourself sends to
you a costly cift do not feel that you
nuxt return in kind It would rob the
giver of much sincere pleusure woro you
to do this
In after days return the gift if you
choose but do not feel it an obligation
and when tou do let it bo un expression
< f yourself A cift that carries with it
the evidence of skill of love and of
thouchtfuluess is of grenter value than
nurtlnug money can purubu9e
The secret of successful clftmaking is
in the npproprialeness and In clear dis
crimination us to what would bo suitn
< lu short in Christmas oflerings ns
other things use the good plnln
common sense that seldom makes mis
takes The better way to preserve this
Ireclous holiday is uot to Indulge in ex
travagance in any of its observances
Without uuduo Intrusion of tho ego the
editor of this department inks permission
to extend a Chrlstmus greeting to all its
raders Mnv joy and gladness permeate
the homes The Gvuttk enters and jol
ly reign sunrome nround every hearth
sioue And ns the Christmas bolls ring
mnv every heart beat iu happy unison
I tider the mistletoe may true lovers
meet nnd happy children Und in full
stockings and glftlnden trees nn assur
ance that though Pan is dena Kris
krlnele lives and Santa Clnus still drives
his reindeer aud that the jolly saint hns
been at his business A merry Christ
mas to nil
Clint on la hlontu
Simply because we are creatures
of habit and that thero would bo a oer
tam senso of disappointment if some
thing were not said ot garments is the
chatterbox unlocked It is said that
this is the age of revivals nnd there
seems reason for this designation when
the Queen Anno ruches the Henri Deux
collarettes nnd capes the Louis Quo
torze coats and fans with other quaint
devices are remembered It is also the
age of thrift aud economy nu economy
that Is unsuapeoted because it Is deftly
bidden by a skill that defies detection
bee my nice new slippers bald a
pretty girl as she put out her dainty
> o 2
Silver slippers Ton extravagant pu9s
No not thnt these are my old shoes
1 bought silver gilt or whatever It is
called and seel Yes they were pretty
silver shoes a CIndrella might wenr
But tnose embroidered silk stockings
That Is extravagance Xot a bit of it
I bought some plain ones at a closingout
stile got some of those bunches of mixed
embroidery silks nnd last summer put
In my idle moments in adorning tbem
trs was the same girl who makes a
feather a bunch of flowers bits of silk
velvet and ribbon auswer for delicious
confections In millinery for the theater
the church and the street while her big
brother swells his hatters btll in propor
tion to his bead She will from the
gowns that have lost their freshness
evolve a ravishing teagown and by the
aid of a black velvet jacket and several
faucy waists of surah or China silk make
a beholder fancy the old laoe and silk
skirts that have done good service are
the most charming of house toilets This
is that cirl who does her own shopping
using her mind and exercising her brain
In selections nnd knows that good mate
rial is obeapest and that to wait until
the first craze is past Is wisest When
this young woman goes out on her
shopping expedition she is opt to wear
a blue serge gown plainly made not so
much because it is the fashionable f abrio
this winter as booause it is serviceable
and beoomlng
The rage for feather trimming Is una
batitig and tho price continually ad
vancing This is not caused so muoh by
the MoKlnley bill as by the faot that the
ostrich with its wellknown silliness con
tinues to bear only the same amount of
plumage and it is a case of demand iu
excess or supply Boas in every color
are shown und for wear at all places
When this trimming is applied It is pret
tier to have narrow lengths of it at
tached under the good3 to protrude with
out lying on the surface
Corduroy velvet Is muoh ndmlred and
a very handsome gown was recently fin
ished by a fashionable modiste The
bodice is of gray silk fashioned like a
cuirass and heavily embroidered with
steel beads Another street dress is of
gondarme blue cloth Tho bodice is out
like a cavalier ooat and flecked all over
with steel drops
This leads to the remark that in
metallio trimmings nothing is quite so
tony nor quite as expenshe as M cut
steel In no combination is It prettier
than with blue or gruy cloth
When the spunky little California
woman called Klla Wheeler Wilcox a
g ay mouse it is fair to suppose sho
had expended her venom but the mouse
went on writine poetry and wearing her
gray coat with a nonchaleuce that while
It bespoke indifference to her revilers
opinion at the same time showed n quiet
taste in dress that is commendable
Fashion sanotions this opinion aud the
winter costumes show a deoidod prefer
ence for this neutral tint What pret
tier dinner costume than the following
could be devised
Penrl gray faille and crenm mousseline
de sole Underskirt of kilted cream
mousseline Long pointed train of pearl
erny faille which extends into a skirt
on tho right side and a part
of the front allowing the whole left side
of the plaltod mousseline to show The
penrl gruy silk is slashed on the right
side and the edges are trimmed with
pearl gray feathers Abovo near the
hips a large tuft of pearl gray and plum
colored feathers is attached Tho bo lioe
conaistsof a Russian chemisette of mous
seline and a corset of plum colored vel
vet The obemisette is kilted like the
suirt out heart shape very much puffed
across the chest pulled down the back
and trimmed around the neck with white
strips of feathers Short peasant sleeves
hanging looao half way down the fore
arm The velvet corselet reaohing well
up under the arm curves downward in
the front nnd is slashed and graduated to
the small of the waist The white chem
isette shows through the front corselet
which is joined with antique gold clasps
graduated in size ns the corselet is grad
uated A thiok pearl gray feather boa
tightly encircles the neck pearl gray
Swedish gloves reaching partly over the
upper arm pearl gray feather fan with
mother ot pearl mounting
For the grand dame who loves a
warmer tone there is an elegant dinner
dress of velvot in goldenbrowu of me
dium tone with vest and tablier of
white satin brocade bordered at the foot
with rich passementerie of floriated de
signs in brown and gold and narrow
passementerie to matoh trimming the
belt forming epaulettes and trimming
the collar nnd cuffs And for a young
matron what can be snid against a
combination of black velvot and blue
satin The train aud waist are of blaok
royal velvet with Breton vest and tablier
of stone blue satin of delicate shade
brocaded with black velvet in fern de
sign tho tablier framed in with a full
rucbe of blue saroenet ribbon with blaok
purl edge the ruche finishing also the
neck and the sleeves
Not to seem utterly oblivious of a
young cirls thoughts in holiday times
here are somo oharmitg creations in
evening dresses that will touoh the
pocket of poor papa more lightly than do
investments iu bonds and stocks For
a brunette there is a pink crepo do obine
and faille The whole dress Is made
over a very deep old rose silk under
dress Narrow but very long train of
pink silk Side and front skirt gar
nished with a pink mousseline de soie
flounce hand embroidered with tea
roses each rose lying in the lower fes
toon with stem running upward side
und frout draped with crape loop6il only
about the hips and deeply embroidered
with tea roses whose stems are tied with
a pink Louis XVI bow This skirt is
disposed into scallops which fall over
tho lower flounce and the upper point
nf each scallop are garnished with an
old rose butterfly Plain crape back
bodice front bodice disposed in small
folds ooming from the side and waist
point of bodice that all moet In front
near the decollete and there are caught
with a diamond ornament This toilet
has a very antique trimming which
consists of brownish green feath
ers about four inches wide
which beginning on the left hand
upper end of the train is appllod all
along the edge of It crosses the loopings
of the crepe de chine oi the left mounts
up is coiled around the waist then
crosses around the obost and ends on the
left shoulder with a tuft of tips of the
same oolor A similar tuft holds the
drapery of the skirt on the right and
outs the serpentine coil of the feathor
trimmings Crepe sleeves bias cut
putting on tho shoulders and fastened
with a band of feathers half way up the
forearm and following it are three
model evening dresses
The first Is of crepe de cblne Is of rose
oolor with sidegores sidebodies and
sleeves of satin brocade of white star jes
samine design on rose colored ground
ing
Another pretty gown for evening wear
has a round skirt of cream white satin
striped ilclltenne the front of the skirt
bordered at the foot with a puffing of
white silk tulle set with cluster bows ot
No 1 white satin ribbon The sleeves
are of point Gennes lace over pale pink
ottoman silk
A third model is of satin in maize
color covered all over wltu drapery of
maize colored figured silk tulle the dra
pery confined here and there with tur
quoise blue velvet ribbon bows of the
ribbon holding sheaves of natural wheat
Notes
The newest bonnets are many of them
of the plate form and made of varfed
material cloth velvet bordered with
either beaver or Astrakhan and trimmed
with wings or ostrich plumes
Velveteen jacket and kilt suits for boys
of four to ols bt jears and a surah
blouse of cream yellow red or blue
A fashion recently sot by one of the
elite of tbe metropolis Is the revival of
the Spanish mantilla tor theater wear
The latest fad of wenltby nnd fastid
ious ladies is a craze not for orazy
quilts but silk sheets daintily embroid
ered
Bonnets are quite small they are short
at the sides and rather pointed back
and front rather the shape of half a
melon
Berthas or neck pieces of light feather
niching with ostrich tips to be worn on
either shoulder and a similar though
smaller bunoh for the hair
Cloaks are loose and long often drawn
in at the waist at the back by a band
and are trimmed with fur or passemen
terie or are plain as is fancied
For evening dross the skirt is cut with
a train more or less long as the fancy
may dictate though dancing dresses are
nearly always short as so much more
convenient
Talmas or long enpes reaohing down
to the hip are made of light colored
cloth Tho back front and sleeves and
tbe Stuart collar are trimmed with col
ored passemonterie
A new bedspread in marked contrast
is made of coarse linen sheeting em
broidered all over in goldcolored silk in
bold conventional designs wrought in
the longstem stitch known to our grand
mothers
Fullness or trimmings of some sort
continue to be put on nearly all bodices
exoept tbe ouirass ones aud they oross
or open over vests or plastrons or are
ornamented with passementerio just as
the fancy diotates
Sleeves are made a triflo widor than
formerly but there is a tendency to
make them not quite so high at the top
and tho shoulder seam a little longer
They are also made longer at tbe hand
quite covering the wrists and in some
oases reaohing to the back of the hand
But few silks are seen in outofdoor
wear cloths nnd woolens ot various kinds
taking the place of silk evon In visitinc
dresses Light woolen fabrics are also
much worn in the house while silks
bengalines crepes and gauzes are used
for evening and ceremonious occasions
Small panlers have appeared on some
of tbe Imparled gowns especially those
intended forfulldress wear The full
ness reaobes from the front of tho waist
over the hips and is gathered under the
plaits of tho skirt at the back This
drapery is frequently of some different
material from the skirt it may corres
pond with tho sleeves or bodloe
Perhaps some of the ladies would like
to know that satin stripe grenadines will
be a very important factor among the
new goods to come and are considered
to be one of the very latest fabrics
In making up the stripe will be out to
show the bias effect both in bodioe and
skirt whioh gives a new and unique
style and is entirely different to what
we have had in the past
Christmas Colnran
Wicker hampers gilded satin lined
and filled with confectionery laid on lace
paper leaving the basket afterward for
a jewel box or fancy work roceptaole
A pretty trifle for a favor or to adorn a
Christmas tree is a tiny basket with a
bow of brightly tinted silk and a lace
edged strip forming a bag sowed to its
edge Tho hollow may be filled with
bonbons or with perfumed cotton
The safetypin holder Is shaped like a
folding needlebook with loaves for
holding tho different sizes of safety pins
The leaves are white flannel tbe outside
is covered with white India silk with
white silk feather stitching for a border
A work bag which hns tbe merit of af
fording the possibility of keeping tbe
contents from being Involved in the
hopeless tangles common to bag interiors
has for its top a strip of silk gathered
upon a rush basket shaped like a shallow
bowl
A dainty bonbonniere is simply a satin
bag with a calyxlike bottom ot white
kid with pinked and delicately painted
edces The top is either hemmed or
fringed and Is gathered together by
drawing strings of narrow ribbon tied in
many looped bows with ends
a novel bag for dusters consists merely
of a double square of the material with
a circular opening In the center of tbe
upper one Make tbe bag of pale blue
pongee silk and line with deep red
silesia Featherstitch across tbe cor
ners about six inches from each point
taking tbe stitohes thro ugh tbe two
squares Sew a red plush ball at the
four points aud use red ribbons for tbe
draw strings
A novel calender is made from a piece
of celluloid In orescent shape upon
which are painted yellow bellsbaped
flowers with their leaves Notch the
edce of tbe crescent and make incis
ions through whioh may pass three yel
low ribbons of unequal lengths Two
openings about half an inoh apart are
required for each ribbon Upon the
shortest one are printed tbe days of tbe
week the second ribbon which is twice
the length of tbe first has upon it tbe
names of the twelve months and on tbe
longest ribbon are the figures from one
to tbirtyone inclusive the number of
days in tho month The first and third
ribbons nre moved each day as the date
changes but the second one is only
moved when there is a new month
Female Labor in Cities
Philadelphia Times
A recent canvass of twenty oities
yields some interesting data respeoting
female labor According to the report
made the average age at which girls be
gin to work is fifteen years and four
months Charleston S C gives
eighteen years and seven months the
highest average and Newark N J
fourteen years nnd seven months the
lowest Of 17427 interviewed 14120
were native born 93G were Irish and 775
Mormons 12907 had foreignborn
mothers 15337 were single women 745
married and 1033 widows 8754 supported
themselves and helped to support others
9313 helped in home housekeeping The
statistics show that the health was im
paired by work of 12822 who reported
373 earn less than S100 a year
In Atlanta the wages aro the lowest in
the twenty cities the average boing onlv
5405 per week In San Francisco they
are tbe highest reaohing 696 per
week In New York the nverage is
S385 In Boston S564 Chioago 574 In
St Paul 602 and In New Orleans S431
now to i > o it
Boston Transcript
There is an art in most things even in
the manner which a wellbred woman
leaves her carriage which shows if
madame be accustomed to tbe surround
ings of wealth or if It be an accident la
her life If she put one foot out firmly
upon the carriage step before relinquish
ing the sitting posture and allows tbe
body to follow easily and naturally tben
yon can tie reasonably gnre that a car
riage has been one of tbe necessities of
her life Nothing is more awkward than
to see a woman thrust her head forth
first aud then Gad herself forced to
double up to accomplish the rest of tbe
exit Watch one who knows how to
gracefully sink her weight from one foot
to lbs other almost without losing a
perfectly perpendicular position secur
ing instantly a walking poise ns sho
touches the ground and the difference
between her method and that of another
who lands nearly in a tumble on the
sidewalk will be discernible A ridicu
lous combination of ignorance is occa
sionally seen where a woman driving a
cart or a phaeton permits a companion
to occupy the drivers seat while she
handles tho ribbons from tha left
IX THE SOOTH
BY A MISSISSIPPI GIRL
My love hai gone up from the suncircled South
And the teeth of the winter bite sharp in the
air
ily love with the pomgranate red on her mouth
And the gold and the bronze of the South in her
hair
With the flush in her cheek liko a crushed
poppys stains
And the warmth of the South like a wine in her
veins
My love has gone out and the South has grown
cold
The gray mosses swing oer her eWtate seat
And the wet leaves are Bwirled in a hurrying
fold
To lie in the spot she bat touched with her feet
And thelast sheltered jasmine she bore in her
hand
When sho and the summer went oat of the land
Mv love has gone up to the stretches ot snow
Where the rivers are harder and smoother than
glass
And tbe North winds are bitter and keen as they
blow
And they bite at the pulse and heart as they
pass
And tbe skies are as dead skies gray pallid
and old
And they seem bnt the ghosts of the skies that
were gold
My love she is coming aback to the South
For the palms of the summer are warnv in the
air
And the pomgranate blooms are as red as her
mouth
And theuild veTlow jasmins are gold as her
hair V
And today a magnolia bloom first on her tree
From its great waxen chalice flung incense
oer me
They have brought back my love to her home in
tbe South
Oh pitiless tvind of the North I cruel sleet
And how coald ye bite at her pomgranato
mouth
And how on her flowerlike heart could ye beat
The gray mosses lie on her slab like a mist
And her grave by the rain of the jasmins is
kissed
And the moon never wearies ot ponring its
light
And a mocking bird mourns there the whole of
the night Ella IUgsdale
IIow Unnghters Should be Educated
To inaugurate an economical fashion is
well only let It be one of prevention
not of oure says Mrs Mary A Liver
more In the North American Review
To rear a girl in absolute dependence
rood for nothing selfish in her aims and
exacting in her demands is a sin against
the dauchter and against sooiety To
begin at her birth to economize and re
trench In every department for the no
cumulation of money that this mon
strous perversion of her life may be ac
complished and maintained is grotesque
and heathenish Girls thus trained will
fail of attaining a high order of woman
hood Thoir aims will be petty their
idenls low and nothing very excellent
can bo expected of them in wifehood or
motherhood
Let tbe reform inaugurated be made
fashionable and be carrledon Let us
begin a system of economy tbat will pre
vent the evil whioh our author only pro
poses to oure and by an utter inade
quate remedy While we oarefully
guard whatever is womanly in our
daughters let them be trained to more
of fiber and firmness Educate them to
selfdenial if pecuniary ciroumstances
demand it and not to selfindulgence
Accustom them to be of service In the
household to regard eoonomy as praise
worthy and even heroio and to add to
their other accomplishments a practical
knowledge of work and the possession of
some lucrative vocation or industry by
which they can support themselves
Suoh girls when portionless will carry
to their husbands dowries in themselves
Recipes
English Relish Put bread orumbs
into a saucepan with oream salt and
pepper when the crumbs have absorbed
all tbe cream or milk add a small piece
of butter a little grated cheese break
in a few eggs and then fry as an ordi
nary omelet
Pooketbooks for tea Take a cupful of
light and warm yeast a oupful of warm
sweet milk two eggs beaten a cupful of
sugar a spoonful of grated orange peel
and nutmeg add to this flour enough to
make a thin batter aud sit in a warm
place to rise If you wish it for tea yon
must make this batter about 9 oolook in
tbe morning and in two hours it ought
to be full of bubbles and light Tben
pour this batter into sifted flour enough
to form Into a rather stiff dough add
salt and a lump of butter as big as an
egg Work it thoroughly and set it in
a tureen to rise again When it is risen
it is ready to form into shapes called
pocketbooks To do this you must flour
tbe bonrd and roll out the dough half an
Inch thick smear the surfaoe with but
ter out into strips about six Inohes long
and two inches wide fold them over and
over and lay them within an Inch of
each other on a warm and greased bak
ing tin or pah swab the tops over with
warmed butter and a beaten egg set
them now to rise which will require an
hour Just before you put them in tha
oven yon must lift some sugar over them
Mrs Gladstones mince meat Boll
a neats tongue two hours then skin it
and chop it as small as possible chop
three pounds of fresh beef suet very fine
three pounds of good baking apples
four pounds of currants washed clean
picked and well dried and one pound of
raisins stoned and cleaned mix all these
well togethe with one pound of
powdered sugar onehalf ounce of
mace onehalf onnoe of nutmeg grated
onefourth onnoe each of cloves and
cinnamou and one pint of French
brandy Make a rich puff paste and as
you fill tbe pis pat In a little candied
citron and orange out In small pieces
what you have to spare cover up In an
earthen jar and add no citron or orange
until you use It
Fig paste Take one pound of figs
chop them coarsely and boll with a pint
ot water until reduced to a soft pulp
strain through a fine selve add three
pounds of sugar and pnt into the double
boiler until it becomes stiff Pour into a
mold
Mash mallows Dissolve one pound of
clean gum arablo in one quart of water
strain add one pound of refined sugar
and place over a lire stirring continually
until the sugar is dissolved and the mix
ture has become ot tbe oonslstenee of
honey next add gradually tbe whites of
eight eggs well beaten stirring the
mixture all the time until it loses its
stickiness and does not adhere to the
angers when touched Pour luto a s a j
dusted with flour or atarch and when
cool divide into small squares
Prune whip Use one pound of best
prunes whites of four eggs twothirds
Of a cup of fine white granulated sugar
onehalf pint of sweet cream juloe of
half a lemon After the prunes are well
washed stew them till perfectly soft add
sugar while cooking when cold remove
the pita Whip the whites of the eggs to
a stiff froth adding prunes nnd lemon
juioe whip all together for ten or fifteen
minutes put Into a pudding dish and
bake for twenty minutes in a moderate
oven till a light brown When very cold
serve with the cream whipped light and
slightly sweetened
White fiuit cake Ono pound of flour
one pound of pulverized sucar half a
pound of butter one teacup of citron
sliced thiu one cup ot blanobed and
chopped almonds three teacups of grated
cocoanut whites of sixteen eggs two
teaspoonfuls of baking powder and half
a cup ot sweet milk mix well and bake
in a moderate oven ice with cocoanut
icing
NEGLIGEE TOILETS
Their Greek Simplicity and Classic
Gracefulness Flannelettes
Afternoon Teas Promise to Flonrlsh A Host
els by Her Rich Apparel Iays a Com
pliment to Her Guests
Special Correspondence of the Gazette
N w York Dec 191590
CYNIC like Saint
Beuve may with a
certain show of rea
son assert that wo
man is never less
like a woman than
when she is fashion
ably dressed But
such a remark does
not apply to her as
she often appears to
her Intimates and to
her friends and ac
quaintances in tbe
privacy of her apart
uients or in thede
llciously restful at
mosphere of tbe
home circle Hero
in her negligee toi
lets youll find ber
arrayed in a garb of
almost Greek simplicity and classio graoe
fulness The cut and makeup of the
costume will be eminently qualified to
display bor fine figure while the soft
dull tones will set off her beautiful com
plexion most admirably Should
tbe gong sound and the servant
announce tbe arrival of some gen
tleman before whom she desires to
pose as a handsome woman she will
proceed to make a hasty but elaborate
toilet and present herself in a fashion
able attire and thus unoonsolously de
feat tbe very end she has in view Pos
sibly there may be cases In which it
might be improper for a lady to receive
a male visitor in her morning wrapper
but it would depend largely on the na
ture of tbe gentlemans errand In a
womans life enoh portion of the day
has its distinctive garb and it often
borders upon affectation to apologize for
what is perfectly good form Nowa
days so many ladies affeot art that I
need not orave your indulgence for set
ting a charming little bohemian costume
at the bead of this article It is full of
grace and style and entirely suitable
for even an oldigh young person It
consists of skirt and loose jacket in one
color aud blouse in a lighter shade of the
same hue Delightfully artlstlo colors
may easily be found in both ooiton and
woolen cloth tbe flannelettes especially
being very cheap and having a pro
nounced artistio air about them when
tastefully made np The blouse should
be in strictest harmony with tbe tone
of tho material and in case tho
wearer has a white neok will look ex
tremely well when made with a wide
collar and worn with a soft loose cravat
carelessly tied Instead of a blouse of
surah or silk and wool mixture yon may
wear a silk jersey with a smooked front
and inedioi collar provided ones neok
be too thin to display with advantage
With the Bohemian costume thero goes a
certain style of frisure whioh mustbe
quite unconventional and personal by
whioh I mean that a woman must ac
centuate any telling point in the quality
and growth of her hair For Instance
if she have a cowllok display it in u
striking manner if she have a hand
some low forehead roll her hair boldly
back from it if her hair has a tendency
to curl naturally encourage it to its
fullest bent it there bo a quaint V
growth of hair on the forehead make
the most of it eto
In this busy country where a lady
often goes from the breakfast table to
the shops there is no opportunity to dis
play an elegant morning gown She
makes ber appearance clad in her con
ventional and tightfittins tailormade
armed for the conflict of the day and I
mnst oonfe s that modern life as it be
comes less and less picturesque makes
tbe oldfashioned morning robe a rather
relets garment Hence our sex which
is always frugalminded when it can be
so and still keep up appearances seizes
upon tbe opportunity to be economical
and consents Itself with a plain morning
wrapper a garment often quite hideous
in its plainness and an absolute sacrifioe
ot tbe ornamental to the useful
Another reaioa possibly why tha
morning gown has been forced o par
with much of its oldtime richness and
elegance is the tact that the afternoon
or tea gowti calls for so much lace and
expensive garniture Unforo tho advent
of tbat practical iustitution known oj
the street dress it was quite a oo
mon thing to meet ladies out upon s
ping forays clad in black velvet and foce3
The explanation is simple They were uni
able from the shallowness of their purses
to purchase more than one elegant cos
tume and it became a question of social
life and death tbat one costume should
be what is tritely called stunning J
But the morning roba jtlll forms
a very important item ia a wed
ding trousseau and I take pleasure
therefore in setting before you n lovely
specimen of this style of Interior cos
tume which youll find pictured in the
second illustration This rich and ele
gant confection is made up in whito
satin embroidered with white silk and
gold and lined with palest blue satiu
The underskirt is of pale blue satin
draped with lace whilo the sleeves are
veiled with lace falling below the
wrists It will bo noted that the fair
woman who wears this extremely nrtlstlo
and refined creation of the dressmakers
art carried out tho idea tbat such a cos
tume calls for an easy graoe a certain
abandon for her hair is permitted to
droop in a studied negligence upon her
shoulders Such a robo calls for a cer
tain coquetry in the matter of slippers
whioh of course should harmonize io >
color with tbe prevailing tono of the
robe The owner of nn extremely sym
metrical foot might make choice of mules
or Japanese or Turkish slippers with
pointed and curled toes but as the
floors of American bouses are very
apt to be foot cold in winter
it often becomes necessary to wenr
artistio shoes in some fnnoy leather with
or without antique silver buckles But
the particular charm of tho chamber
robe lies therein that the richly trimmed
edges of underskirts may with propriety
disday their garniture of lace and em
broidery or the more plebeian finish of
frills hemstitch guipure or torchon
But even these costly garnitures of laco
have to a certain extent lost their in
definable charm now that cunningly
devised machines can weave webs of al
most equal fineness to tho real point or
bobbin
The afternoon tea promises to be a
very flourishing institution this season
and Im glad to note that tho charming
fashion of having a number of rosebuds
present to act as tutelary saints of tne
samovars is to be continued If a
young man has anything to say a oup
of fragrant tea will unloose his tongue
especially when it is presented to him by
ene of these latter day tlebes arrayed in
garments of soft clinging materials
made up In suoh a quaint and original
manner tbat its utterly Impossible to
tell exactly what epoou tbny belong to
But of ono thing be assured when you
come to converse with ono of these rose
bud assistants no matter how oldfash
ioned may be the cut of her robe youll
find ber intensely modern the alert and
Impressionable child of today
The third illustration sets forth the
strong points of one of these charming
gowns worn by a dainty miss who re
ceived with a prominent society lady last
week There were half a dozen in all
maids in waiting whose business it
seemed to be to keep the young men from
being bored And they made a brilliant
success of it This particular tollot wns
n pale blue satin morvellleux Tbe
Pierrot fichu was in blue gauze trimmed
with wbite lace and tbe sleeves of blue
gauze transparent over the arm and ter
minated at the wrist with five rows of
blue ribbon There is something delici
ously quaint about this simple costume
At any rate it fitted the rosebud who pIST0
wore it physically and spiritually if I T
may be allowed the expression for it n
seems to me that women are too often
apt to content themselves with tbe phys
ical fit only
I have remarked tbat many of our so
oiety women who make a point to have
nn evening array themselves with
mnch more eleganoe than last season
I am aware that it is a moot question
whether a lady simrjly receiving ber
friends informally the female portion
of course keeping their bonnets on
should dress elegantly or merely appear
in a plain silk or woolen gown But I
for one incline to the opinion that a
hostess by her rioh and elegant ap
parel pays a delicate compliment to ber
guests However the question like all
others has two sides
Tbe last illustration plotures a suitable
costume for suoh an evening at home
tbe skirts and waist being of blaok laoe
and jet embroideries and a border of
Parmavelvet below The open jaoket
it was which lent an especial obarm to
this interior toilet for it was of Parma
velvet garnitured with applique and
embroideries of blaok velvet and jet as
shown in the illustration and shoul
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Pearlfct N V j
der braces in Parma velvet bor
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Internal Revenue Collections
Washington Deo 18 Total collec
tions of Internal revenue for the first
five months of the current fiscal year
were 62904170 Increase of S47258G
ascompared with collections for the cor
responding period of the last fiscal year
Receipts were as follows Spirits S31
311121 an Increase of 1713777 to
bacco 15372695 an lnorease ot Sl
383783 fermented liquors 17755374
increase of Si508370 oleomargarine
325370 lnorease of 35901 miscel
laneous 106910 an increase of 85021
Receipts for November 1890 wert
480568 greater than for Kovenber
1889
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