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•V, ly S.JSv. ^. .. E H' I' i* II' aww* »XCEEDINGLY smart fancy col lars made of taffeta in various colors, each consisting of one high ruche to form a frame for the face and a second one turned down over the gown or coat. Shoulder capes in great variety, of bright colored silks and organdies, to be worn with white gowns. Jabots of lace that are attached to collars of colored silk and made full over a plain foundation. Exceedingly handsome blouses of rose colored cr£pe and voile embroid ered with black in a simple design. Blouses of crPpe with collars of organdie and frills of net finishing the front edges. Very smart blouses of striped hand kerchief lawn with collars and cuffs of white pique. A most attractive dandnar gown for the young girl of rose colored taffeta, the only trimming being scal lops in medium size embroidered with heavy white silk. A variety of fancy collars of white organdie with the edge inset with crescent shaped bits of color and fin ished with embroidery in French knots. Evening scarfs of spangled net fin ished with simple hems. Scarfs of tulle in white and in colors that are finished with hemstitched edges. Very beautiful tulles in two tones that are especially well adapted to scarfs that are so generally used in combination with evening gowns. Exquisite garnitures for young girl's frocks that consist of silk flowers cov ered over with twisted material that gives a charming effect. Attractive costumes for summer out ings consisting of skirts of blue and white striped material plaited to bring the blue always on the top with loose smocks of the plain blue, wrist bags and hats to match. Pantalettes of glove silk in dark colors finished with little frills of taffeta designed for wear beneath street costumes. Pantalettes of white silk, 6ome with lace trimming and some with ruffles of silk, 'that are intended for evening wear. Sports hats made of Japanese linen trimmed with Oriental embroideries in characteristic colorings. Pongee in a variety of attractive and smart shades. It is admirable for eports coats as well as for gowns. Marvelously beautiful ribbons for 6ashes and for trimming and for gar nitures, of soft satin richly brocaded some with silver and some with gojd. Sports coats of striped glove silk with sashes of plain that are charm ingly youthful in effect. Blouse garnitures and oyer dresses of net embellished with little beads pewed over a stamped design. They are very beautiful and suggestive for the work easily can be done at home, any braiding or embroidery design being used for the purpose. A variety of wrist bags showing beads in rich and really resplendent coloring, often in elaborate, designs suggestive of the old time samplers with their conventionalized' .flowers, quaint figures and the like. x'vr -v Frocks For ThelpGirl The Soft Satin, Ribbons Embroidered with Gold Are One of The Novelty Showings w~W-* y*lj§t^f(S0(/SS RADUATION DAY always brings its demand for a white frock. Chiff, crepe de chine and fine white cotton voile are favorite materials. For the summer frock, taffeta color over a white dress makes a smart effect. girdle or some accessory that can be trusted to give relief. Smart sports coats that are plain and simple, made of linen Sponge in rather big plaits. White silk stockings embroidered, some with black and some with color. New and interesting hats and trim ming in an exquisite shade of pink known as "Cyclamen." Middy blouses of jersey silk in white and in blue with sashes of the same to be used instead of a belt. Very dainty blouses for afternoon wear of the new "Miracle" crfipe em broidered with beads, some in match ing color, some with gold. Bathing costumes with riding breeches taking the place of the usual bloomers. Russian blouses of net that are pretty over 6kirts of crftpe de chine and similar materials. Exceedingly attractive and novel wrist bags of leather dyed to a new shade known as "Ashes of Ro6es," that can be carried effectively with many summer costumes. Novel bathing hats in sombrero shape, made of pure gum with trim ming of rubber band and rubber tassels. A great many exceedingly hand some fans with sticks of ivory, hand painted with floral designs, and upper portions of ostrich feathers. A convenience for the needlewoman that has only to be seen to be appreci ated. It is a rubber band with a metal ring to be slipped over the spool of silk or cotton. By passing the thread through the ring unwinding and tang ling become impossible while at the same time it is easy to obtain a needle full as desired. Very attractive ornamental hair combs in Spanish style showing real moorish designs that are exceedingly rich and .effective" in color. Others again that show Persian ornamenta tion, eveiy form of Oriental ornaments being in fashion this season. Quaint little brooches in the form of a ring with an owl perched thereon. Since tne owl is supposed to be the bird of wisdom they are especially com mended to the students who will grad uate this spring. Hats of grey straw in real Directoire style that are made higher with jailed up trimming of ostrich in the same shade, with just a tiny little rosebud to eive a touch of color. May Manton Patterns for these De signs may be obtained by sending 10 cents for each pattern wanted to the Fashion Department of this pmptr. Fashion Dept. Gentlemen:— I enclose SOT which send me the following patterns: Send Pattern No Sire,. Send Pattern No Size To (Name) Sti set and No,, Qij State. jPJS-.f,? A *V Graduate .. Beads Wcin DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS 8634 Gathered Blouse, MisGes and Small Women, 16 and 18 years. 8909 (With Basting Line and Added Seam Allow ance) Gathered Skirt for Misses and Small Women, 16 and 18 years. 8870 (With Basting Line and Added Seam Allow ance) Girl's Dress, 8 to 14 year*. A Spring Fetching Leghorn Hats are Being Shown Tinterest HE hat always makes a subject of and just now there is so much variety offered that the danger lies in an embarrassment of riches, but for the after noon costume there is a marked tendency toward the large hat or the hat of moderate size. ..THE iDAILTa/JATEiCITTL Takea 'OMEN who have treasures hidden away the shape of Chinese silk shawls em broidered and fringed will do well to look them up and to bring them forth into the daylight. Chinese influences are at work, Chinese embroid eries are the smartest of all things and wherever there is a real antique piece to be found there is also the best effect. We are living in an era of many periods so far as fashions are concerned. The present is something of a conglomerate season. Some designers are looking at the period of Louis XV and we all know that it was in his time that Madame de Pompadour affected^ the Chinese colors, Chinese materials and Chinese e_nJbroid-. eries, consequently we are having a reflection of the Chinese period when we consider the Louis XV era. Shawls are being used for tunics and for draperies and modern Chinese embroideries of all sorts are employed. Chinese materials are used and Chinese colorings are exceedingly smart for all fabrics let them be woven where they may. Chinese blue and Chinese yellow are exceptionally handsome. They are used together and they are used in combination with quieter tones. A really superb coat that gives evidence of the influence is long and big and ample and of duvetyn in Chinese yellow with a deep hem of black satin embroidered in Chinese blue while the lining also is of satin in the same blue shade. It is a superb wrap of its kind, available for motoring, for summer resorts and for all occasions of such sort and it reflects the influence in a most attractive and interesting way. Incidentally, it may be mentioned that duvetyn is being extensively used for motoring and for sports coats. The latest advices from the famous Florida resorts report it as a favorite ma terial both for coats and for trimming of wool jersey that, to some extent supesedes silk. The coat referred to emphasizes the vogue of the ma terial as well as the Chinese coloring. Undoubtedly, we shall see a great many touches of the blue and of the yellow used in contrast with quieter tones for afternoon and for evening costumes and perhaps for street costumes of a dressy order. Tney will make beautiful linings for piazza coats for each is beautiful in its way. The Chinese embroideries were mentioned in an earlier letter but a note of that kind once sounded is certain to gain and further emphasis needed. Chinese embroideries and Chinese colorings may safely be counted upon as something of a feature of the spring and summer styles. To be at their best, for gowns and any costumes save those known by the name of sports and which allow much free dom in the matter of color, they will of course be used with reserve.' A bit of the characteristic Chinese embroidery on a bodice of grey will for example relieve the quiet effect. The wonderful Manaarin embroideries will be put to many uses. Already we are set-ing sports hats of Oriental linen with trimming of these bands and as the season advances there will be countless uses to which they will be applied. Chinese motifs too are used upon various gowns, characteristic Chinese colors being used for the working. So long as the bril liancy is not over done it always is effective. Let us hope that it will be held in reserve. Among the latest of the sports coats to have been seen are those made of two color jersey silk sewed together to form stripes approximately from four to five inches in width. Chinese blue and Chinese yellow makes a combination that is brilliantly pic turesque against the background of the .seashore or mountains. The present may safely be 6aid to be a season of needlework. Not alone are these wonderful Chinese embroideries being sought and used, the simple every-day sorts that are familiar to every woman are extensively employed and often it is the very simplest that gives the best results. J1 Prominent Place Ampng Trimmings By May Manton SUSS: A most attractive blouse of rose colored crftpe de chine is embroidered down each front with groups of circles, three each and interlaced. Each circles represents three lines, one within the other and they are outlined alternately with darning in black thread and with French knots in black. Beads are put to every possible use and bead em broidery must be considered. Whether or not the great attention paid to embroidered nets is due at least in part to the inevitable shortage of lace, the output is exceptional this season. One of the handsomest flouncings yet to have been, seen shows a design of conventionalized leaves and flowers. The leaves are darned over with black thread and are outlined with couching of silver and the flowers are embroidered with tiny little iridescent beads. The idea once suggested, it can be carried out in similar ways by any woman who can hold a needle. It is the thought behind these things that is of 6uch value. Beads on net and beads on silk, beads for embroidery and beads for outlining edges all are fashionable. Silk voile and chiffon gowns are shown with the hems outlined with borders in tiny little beads, that have been sewed over a stamped design might have been used for braid. A really flo that might have been used for braid. A reall. superb flouncing is made of black net showing a design of which might be called the unbroken or modified Greek fret, that is epibroidered with tarnished silver threads. A very beautiful dinner gown of black tulle is trimmed with bands, wider and narrower, of jet beads sewed into the material. A fascinating little party frock for the child of eight is made of white tulle with tiny crystal beads covering the sewing of the hem and tucks. A very beautiful imported model is of salmon colored silk voile combined with a shimmering taffeta. The drapery is outlined with bands of iridescent beads. Wherever one turns the "bead influence is apparent. It may take the form only of a little flower embroidered on the end of the cravat, it may take the form of an elaborate garniture but in one way or another it is apparent wherever smart cos tumes are seen. We are considering a great many periods and demure effects are greatly in vogue for the younger contingent. They are really fascinating for the girl who cannot be made to look mature and they serve a coquettish purpose while at the same time they are smart. Quiet colors are the vogue abroad and as a matter of course they are reflected here but always with relief. A gown of brown taffeta is made with a full skirt cut in points at its lower edge and with a bodice, the skirt of which becomes almost a tunic with cutaway fronts, with short sleeves with wide circular frills falling to the elbows and with a little turned over collar at the half low neck. All the edges are cut in points and bound. At the waist line is worn a girdle of narrow blue velvet rib bon into which is tucked a little bunch of flowers that might have been plucked in your grand mother's garden. A fascinating dancing frock is of white and black tulle combined with blue ribbon. The blue ribbon makes five flounces or ruffles on the skirt, the fifth one stopping just a little below the hips. The upper part of the slrirt is of soft black tulle gathered full at the waist. Where the ruffles join it is a tiny little hoop arranged cleverly beneath to distend the material without being seen. The soft little bodice with the short sleeves also is of_ the black tulle but the little fischu with its ruffle is of white tulle and at the waist line is a girdle of narrow blue ribbon terminating in a flat little bow at the center front. It is a fascinating costume for the young girl for whom it is designed but the fischu is a dan gerous proposition for her older sister. It makes an ideal frame for the face that is absolutely guilt less of lines but it has the unfortunate tendency to emphasize even the earlier signs of passing years. Fancy For Children Is Flowered Materials By May Manton Dainty Party rITH-i doubt tulle is a a ite ma terial for the mak ing of in frocks de signed for the young gent. Just now there is a ten dency to ward trim ming it with rib bon bands serves the purpose of finish and of accent uating the breadth of the skirt. Tulle in would fall too limply and the gives just a smart 1 A ITTLE girls are being charmingly dressed this season. It is doubtful if their fashions have ever been prettier or more attractive. The picturesque note which is dominant in styles for all ages is especially at tractive applied to their needs. The simplest cotton materials are shown in be combined with taffeta coatees or over bodices to be wonderfully attractive. The Empire line always is becoming. Gir dles and sashes play a really important part. They are made of ribbon and they are made of material but almost uniformly they are of some bright color. & 8949 Added Child a DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS 8890 (With Basting Line and Added Seam Allowance) Fancy for Bodice, Misses and Small 8890 8884 Women, 16 and 18 years. 8884 (With Basting Line and Added Seam Allowance) Gathered for Skirt, Misses and Small Women, 16 and iS years. Embroidered Taffeta Makes a Dainty Frock Tneedlework. HIS is essentially a season of It is very largely employed in place of sewed-on trimming and it never is used to better advantage than on little girl's dresses. ''The one that is shown nere is designed to be worn over a plain blouse o$.guimpe and is perfectly well adapted to linen, to piqu6, to pongee and materials of such sort. The embroidery design is a most attractive one and at the same time it is simple. There are very beautifut. mercerized threads that are used for' 885 Design for embroidering a girl's dress. the purpose and they give a really lustrous effect while at E DESCRIPTION OF PATTERNS 8927 (With Basting Line and* Added Seam Allowance) Girl's Dress, 10 to 14 years. ig Line and Allowance): I, 2, 4 and 8938 (With Basting Line and Added Seam Allowance). Gir,'» 8j° y*. (With Bistios Line Seam Allowance) 4 Added 1 they launder perfectly. really simple, both the making The work is ing of the dress and the embroidery, for tne frock is laid in a box plait at each side of the front and one at cach side of the back and means very few seams to be sewed. The scalloped edges must be first padded and then button-holed, the stems of the design are intended to be outlined only, the leaves, dots and flowers are to be worked in solid em broidery or satin stitch. White embroidery on color is very iretty and color on white is extrimely ashionable this season so that there is opportunity for variation. Ro'so color or blue embroidery on white would make a very charming frock and white embroidery on either cQlof is exceedingly attractive. If a frock is being considered for the coming sum mer and for the very warm days, linen of light weight or fine handkerchief lawn could be used. Embroidery is being much used upon silk as well as upon the washable materials and a very charming and dressy little frock could be made of taffeta, embroidered. For this material, the work should be done in self color or white. Pink with white embroidery makes a very attract ive effect and worn over a net blonse makes a dainty frock. For a_ more useful dress, aark blue embroidered* in a matching color would be band"1