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FEAKK G. CAPvPE:NTEB'S LETTER.
FRANX G-. CARPEJiTTER'S LETTER.
IT IS THE TAJ MAHAL, ERECTED BY-A MOHAM
MEDAN IN MEMORY OFHIS WIFE.
A Look at the World's Most Beautiful Building Its
Bronze Lantern Presented by Lord Curzon The
Palaxes of the Moguls and Their G-orgeous
Harems The Peacock Throne Which
v Cost Thirty-five Millions.
(Copyright, 1910, by Frank G. Carfpenter.)
Agra, India, July 23. It was 4
o'clock this afternoon tot my turbaned
Hindoo driver took me from my hotel
to the Taj Mahal. That "hour Is one of
the best tcsview this mightv monument.
The tropical sun then hangs low in the
heavens. It -strikes the marble minarets
at the corners of the platform and they
cast long shadows upon the white mar
ble floor., Its rays have a- softening
effect. Tfie great building changes
from dazzling white to the rich cream
of old ivory and its mighty dome seems J build thy soul not upon it. The world
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to rest more airily in the blue sky. At
sunset -the gardens about the Taj are
alive with birds. There is sweet sing
ing in the trees, the crows caw and the'
splendid peacocks come out and walk
across the lawns and in and out through
the pines and tropical folage.,
3IoNt Beautiful Building In the AVorld.
The Taj Mahal is the most beautiful
building of the world, and rt has a beau
tiful setting. It is ourrounded by a
frame of red sandstone. Around the
garden of perhap-s ten acres in which
the structure is situated is a wall of
low buildings of dard red harmoniously
joined to the great gate of the same
material which forms the entrance. The
Taj is a mosque as well as a tomb, and
Mohammedans from all parts of India
come here to worship. The sandstone
buildings about the gardens are rest
houses, in which pilgrims may stay
over night. The gate at the entrance
is a wonder. It was built 28 years after
our Puritan forefathers landed on Ply-
I mouth Rock, but it is in perfect condi
tion today. It is beautifully carved
and inlaid with inscriptions from the
Koran. Entering it one gets his first
view of -the Taj. He sees it looking
over a long row of fountains bordered
with cypress trees and rising, as It were,
out of the green. In the distance the
building looks small. It is, I judge,
1000 feet away, a marble jewel framed
against the clearest sky that" heaven
ever gave to man. The dark green ot
the trees shuts out the view on each
side, and you look down over the flash
ing waters at the great ivory monu
ment. As you do so the crows caw, the
cuckatoos fly from tree to tree, the
sun turns falling water to diamonds, 1
and the rich colors of the Hindoo girls'
dresses add to rather than mar the beau
ty of the scene.
As you go nearer the Taj its size
rapidly Increases, and when at last you
mount the; steps and stand upon its
platform you realize its immensity. The
marble foundation upon which It is
built covers three acres arid at each
corner there is a tower of marble, or
minaret, as high as a seven story house.
The tomb itself covers almost an acre.
It is a building wbjeh rises to one-thir"
the height of the Washington monument
and ends in a central dome, which floats
In the sky. The whole is of the purest
white marble, so symmetrically joined
that it seems to be carved out of one
block. The dome looks like a silvery
bubble which might have been blown
from the mouth of a god. It is 50 feet
in diameter, and jou could put a big
house inside it and it would not touch
the sides. Still, from the platform it
is not out of proportion, and It rests
lightly upon the great structure below.
It fits down like the tropical sun when
It sets upon the-waters in the midst of
the ocean. As the sun touches the sea
the latter appears to rls and pull it
down, as it were. "'hen it Is two
thirds submerged it is of just the shape
of the dome of the Taj, perfect In every
curve and wonderfully beautiful.
Some Views, of the Taj.
I des-nair of making you see the Taj
! Mahal. Everv point of view gives a
different impression and each has new
beauties. Take a walk through the
garden. It is filled with plants of many
kinds gathered from all parts of the
world. Now 3'oju are In a forest of fir
"trees. You might be half way up the
Andes. The green is so thick that it
shuts out all else- Now take a step
forward. The great monument is look
ing at you through the foliage. You
have a glimpse of the dome, but a tall
palm has thrust its bushy head against
It and its fanlike branches half hide,
but add to its beauty. A step further
and you are in a long avenue where
the trees overhang. You have only a
glimpse of the sky at the end. A step
to the right and you are In a rose gar
den, out of which you can look at the
towers of the minarets with the white
j bubble floating between. Upon tne
minaret stands) a Mohammedan ;man,
or Driest, his red shawl shining like a
spot of blood upon the white marble. , courtiers and for two years refused all
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is one hour. Give its minutes to tny
prayers, for the rest is unseen?'
Inside the Tnj.
But let us enter this mighty monu
ment and stand under the dome. "We
take off our hats and bow low, and our
Mphammedan guide removes his shoes.
The floor upon which we are standing
is holy ground. It is a church anda
tomb, the most beautiful of the kind
known to man. The walls and floors
are of the purest of marble. There are
many alcoves and everything is won
derfully carved. Right under the dome,
surrounded by a great fence of marble
screens, lie the sarcophagi, below which
rest shah Jehan, one of the most famous
Mohammedan sultans of the past, and
his wife, the beautiful Muntaz Mahal,
in whose honor this structure was built.
Above these tombs, hanging down by a
gold chain, is a lamp of bronze inlaid
throughout with silver and gold. It wa
hung only a few months ago, and was a
present from Lord Curzon to Agra. It
cost thousands of dollars, and took two
years to make. When it was sent here
it was accompanied by a letter from
Dord Curzon, in which he said:
"I would beg that this lamp may al
ways hang in the tomb as my last trib
ute of respect to the glories of Agra,
which float like a vision of eternal
beauty in my memory, and to the grave
and potent (Mohammedan) religion,
which is professed by so many millions
of our fellow subjects in India."
The tombs of shah Jehan and Muntaz
Mahal are exquisitely beautiful and the
screen surrounding them is .a mass of
lacework cut out of marble and set
in posts as exquisitely jnade as the
most beautiful of Florentine mosaics.
There is enough of this marble lace
work inside' the Taj to fence in a gar
den. If you -would take the dome of
the Capitol at "Washington and make it
of Ivory of the purest white Instead of
iron, as now, and inlay it with flow
ers, wreaths and other decorations all
made of stones more or less precious,
you might have an idea of the work,
but you could not appreciate the beau
ty. The sarcophagi are inlaid with
jade, lapis lazuli and other semi-precious
stones, while below are others
with actual jewels. The whole struc
ture is a njarvel well fitting the de
scription of Bishop Heber, who said that
these Mohammedan artists designed
like Titians and finished like jewelers.
adding that "it would be as easy to
tell how the birds sing or the lilacs
smell as to describe the Taj." I feel
the same and also much like the Hus
sion artist, who remarked when he look
ed upon the building: "The Taj is like a
lovely woman. You may abuse her as
you please, but the moment you come
into her presence you submit to her
In Honor of a "Woman.
Even more wonderful than the Taj it
self Is the reason for its erection. "We
Christians are apt to think of Moham
medan wives as unloved or at best only
the sensual playthings of their hus
bands. They may be divorced at will
and cast aside at the least pretense for
others more beautiful. The Taj Mahal
was built by the sultan Shah Jehan as
a monument to his wife. This shah was
a mighty monarch and his subjects were
millions. His income was something
like a million dollars a day and he had
palaces ?f great extent decorated with
carvings and inlaid with jewels. He
had one of the most gyrgeous courts
ever known and in his harem were
ninety-nine wives. Of all these, how
ever, he loved only the bride of his
b6yhood. the fair Muntaz Mahal, for
whom this building was made. He
married hep- before he came to the
throne and his relations with her were
the ideal ones of the Christian husband
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fe. He was true to her and they
happily together for seventeen
years. At the end of that time Muntaz
died andijphah Jehan went into mourn
ing. His grief was suchxthat his hair
became white within a few weeks. Dur
ing mat time ne denied himself to
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It is not hard to carry your imagination
back for three or four centuries to
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IV,. , -. . ...t"
tome to prayer: vuiut; iu yixjci.
Inlaid "With Jewels.
Now climb again to the platform and
take a close look at the building. Did
you ever ee such workmanship? It Is a
mass of decoration. The walls are cover
ed wifih beautiful carvings and are in
laid with stones ,of many colors. Every
angle itasSprecious stones and these
are combined in wreaths, scrolls and
frets of e&quflite design. The Taj flow,
er, as It Is called, is cut in bas-relief
here and there out of the marble. Some
of the decorations have fifty different
colored stones in a single setting, and
before, the Taj was robbea"of its beau
ty ties some flowers contained' a hundred
or more. The jewels with which the
building was inlaid cost more than 10,
000,000 rupees, and rajahs and kings
sent gems and pearls and precious
stones as well as silver and gold to aid
in its decoration. Some of the beauti
ful inlaid work which still stands are
the Arabic inscriptions which
aro"und the door and here and there
over the walls. They are of characters
in black marble inlaid upon the white.
Most of them are from the Koran, or
Mohammedan Bible; most, but not all.
I find one which reads as follows:
"Salth Jesus, on whom be Tjeace: This
world is a bridge. Pass thou over It, but
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the pleasures of life. Every Friday,
which is the Mohammedan Sunday, lie
visited his wife's grave and over It
read the prayers for the dead.
A little later he began the construc
tion of this temnle and tomb, employing
an Italian architect to make the de
signs. The work was begun within two
years after the death of Muntaz Mahs&.
and for twenty-two years 20,000 worl?-
j men werejaily employed upon Its con
struction. Their labor was forced and
I they received only their food for their
pay and of that they were cheated by
the grafters of their times. The mate
rials used were marble and sandstone,
which came from the state quarries,
and the precious stones, gold and silver
and mother of pearl used for the inlay
ing were gifts of rajahs and others.
Nevertheless the structure cost all told
something like $35,000,000, or four
times as much as our most beautiful
government building, the National Li- J
brary at Washington. The marble
screen which I have desorlhed post
( $1G,000 and it took ten years to make
it. Originally it had a door of Jasner.
run I the work upon which cost $3,000, but
this was changed to a screen of pure
gold set with gems which cost more
After the structure was completed
Shah Jehan set aside1 the revenue of
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thirty villages to keep it in order, and
he covered his wife's sarcophagus with
a pall embroidered with pearls. The
records say that he mourned for this
woman to the day of his death and that
she had a great Influence upon' his life.
She was his companion and friend. He
consulted with her on state affairs and
trusted her with the royal seal and
took her along with him on one of his
military campaigns. She was noted
for her beauty and charity and it is
said that she was religious and a spe
cial patron of indigent orphans. Upon
her tomb are now engraved the ninety
nine fcames of God from the Koran and
various Mohamfpedan texts. She is
perhaps best rem'embered of all Mo
hammedan women, and of aTT TTer sex
she has the greatest monument. A
famous traveler who passed through
here in writing of the Taj, said:
'T asked my wife at the close of our
visit what she thought of the build
ing." "I cannot," said she "tell you
what I think, for I krtow not how to
cirticize such a building, but I can tell
you how I feel. I would die tomorrow
to have such another over me."
The Palaces of the Moguls.
During my stay here and at Delhi I
have gone through some of the palaces
of these Mogul emperors of four and
five hundred years ago. Their ruins
are scattered throughout this part of
India and some of the buildings are still
almost in perfect condition. Others are
battered and falling to pieces. The
great fort here at Agra, built by thain,
has walls seventy feet high and more
than a mile long. It has massive sand
stone gates Inlaid with marble and
richly carved. Its interior has an area
equal to a good sized farm, and its
walls inclose the palaces, which sur
passed in their splendor the descriptions
of Moore and Byron of the glories of
the Orient. Many of you have visited
the jeweled chamber in the palace of
Frederick the Great at Potsdam, outside
Berlin. It was erected by that monarch
when his treasury was low with the
idea that his extravagance might cre
ate the Impression that he had money
to burn. One room of the palace was
walled with jewels and precious stones,
but It was only a pinchbeck apartment
in, comparison with some of the rooms
in this fort at Delhi.
The palace here has interior walls
which were a lacework of marble, pil
lars inlaid with marble mosaic and
room after room containing marble
screens cut out like lace, but the
meshes of "which were stone three
inches through. The columns of some
of the rooms were set with costly
jewels. There were tables inlaid with
precious stones, costly hangings and
rugs worth a king's ransom. The best
part of the palace was built by Shah
.Tohnn and one of its most beautiful
divisions was the harem where he kept
his ninety-nine wives. I walked
through it today. At one place the
veiled ladies looked out through marble
laceworK into a court at the wares,
which the jewelers brought there for
sale. In another is a marble balcony
where the Shah and Muntaz used to
fish In an artificial lake lying below
and in a third is -a hall grander than
any audience hall of the world. There
were bathrooms lined with mirrors and
rose water vfountains and in one court
the floor had been divided up into a
chess 'board -upon which the sultan
played, uslng'pretty slave girls as pawns
and directing the movements by his
During my visit I went through some
of the bedrooms occupied In the past
by the ladles of the harem and my
guide showed their treasure boxes. In
the marble ledges of the windows cir
cular holes were cut just big enough
for the fair ladies' arms and about
three feet in depth. Into these the
houris dropped their diamonds and bar
baric gold. I thrust my arm down one
of them up to my shoulder, hoping to
find a stray gem. It was empty, but
I could feel my flesh thrill as it
touched the stone in the pictures that
crowded before me.
On the Peacock: Throne.
During my visit to Delhi, I spent
some time in the great palaces there,
and tookphotographs in the famous
audiencehall of this same Shah. Jehan.
This room was of white marble inlaid
wih. jewels and precious stones. The
ceiling was of solid silver, and when
put up it cost almost a million dollars.
The silver was stolen and carried
away, but an Imitation of It In wood
has taken Its place at the direction of
.Lord Curzon. The wooden ceiling can
not long last, for the white ants which,
eat everything wooden, are feasting up
on it. It was in the back of this room
that Shah Jehan sat in state upon the
peacock throne. Tou have probably read
of it. It was a chair of gold and jewels,
the back consisting of two peacock's
tails so inlaid with sapphires, rubles,
emeralds, diamonds and pearls as to
represent life. The throne Itself Vas
six feet long by four feet -wide, just
about the size of the ordinary double
bed, and it stood on six massive feet,
which, like the back, were of solid gold
Inlaid with rubies, emeralds and dia
monds. Between the two peacocks was
a parrot 'of the ordinary size, said to
have been carved out of a single emer
ald, and over the whole was a canopy
of gold upheld by twelve pillars em
blazoned with gems. This throne alone
v-iot. ij,uuu,uu. jr nas tif-n turn tn
pieces and the most of it can-iprf .-
Parts of it have been patched together
again into a smaller throne, -which is
now in the possession of the Shah of
As I stood in the audience hall my
Hindoo guide, who, by the way, is very
conceited, pointed to a Persian Inscrip
tion upon the wall, giving its trans
lation, which was:
'If there Is a paradise on earth.
It is this! It is this! It is this I"
and as he concluded he said: rtWhen
-Lady Curzon was here I showed her
through this room and explained all its
beauties. I read her the inscription
and at the end she remarked:
"Yes, and If there Is a good guide in
lou are he! You are he
And perhaps the boy told the truth,
but he is such an accomplished liar
upon all other subjects that I doubt it.
Frank G. Carpenter.
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let on skin diseases explaining in simple
words how any person can be, cured at
home of any form of skin or scalp dis
ease by this clean, scientific remedy.
Knoblauch Drug Co., Druggists.
ASSAYERS & CHEMISTS
Independent Assay Office
ESTABLISH CO 1883.
D. W. Rxcxhabt. E 2L, Proprietor.
Agent for Ore Shippers Assess a4
Chemical Analysts. Mines Examine
and Reported Upon. Bullion Work
3 P. O. Pox 88.
Offloe aad Laboratory:
Cer. S F?sscfe & CkMfeSfe.
C PA?0- TEXAS.
Custom Assay Office
CRITCHETT & FERGUSON,
Successors to Hughes & Critchett.
Assayers, Chemists, Metallurgists.
Agents for Ore Shippers.
322 i San Francisco St. Phone 32 J
Ore Shippers' Agents
KCelt ana Refine, or Purchase,
Gold and Silver in any form. Corre
spondence invited. Strictly confidential.
C. W. WINSLOW & CO.,
304 San Francisco St., Ei Paso. Texas.
Where to buy hay, oats,
grain, etc., etc. This qnesfeon
Is satisfactorily settled if
you decide to favrr us with
your orders. We carry a
large stock on hand which as
sures prompt delivery. Also
headquarters for fresh field,
garden and flower seeds.
Third and Chihuahua Sts.