For Late Summer
JJ kh the World's Workers
y y "" 1 iiimiiiiiiiiiiii .uuui.u-ii.i. .u.uu..mii ....... ...... , ,,,
Cold Storage by N3 Means' Mod
. ern Invention.
Facta Prove That Chinese Were Fa
miliar With Practice Centuries
Ago, and It la In Universal
Use There Today.
REVIEW
(; PROGRESS THAT . IS . BEING
ALL LINES of . ENDEAVOR
MADE
ALONG
KNOWN TO ANCIENTS
ATVTFfeC!
i
Employer Asks Youth to Work
Six Nights a Week Without
Any Extra Pay.
REFUSAL ER1NGS DISCHARGE
Sd In This Case Is Fortunate to Get
.Out cf Such a Fosilion, but Must
Remember to Be Tactful
and Considerate.
II. Vv. T. Is young and ambitious.
71e tins Just been discharged from bin
f.rst position 8iid he feels tbat be la
tho victim of pross Injustice on the
jj.Hi t of his employer.
There are few things more pathetlo
thnn the hclnless rase and Incredible
nctonlBi:ment of a very young man
when he first comes Into painful con
tact with the blind and crushing
iforces that often control modern busi
ness. In his youthful dreams he has built
up a more or less Ideal world, with
lilmself as the conquering hero.
He wakes to find himBelf caught be
tween the irresistible mlllBtones of
commerce, the victim of what seems
Ilaln injustice, his virtues often un
recognized, his important ptans and
Ipersonallty treated with scanty con
sideration. Me feels that were the facts but
known the whole world would sympa
thize with him and denounce those
who havo treated him unjustly.
In that bitter and perfectly natural
frame of mind H. V. T. tells the story
of bis discharge. His first position In
the office of a big corporation paid
Mm $3 a week. Being ambitious and
feeling the need of a better education
tio entered the night course of a busi
ness college. Three evenings a week
be attended recitation; the other
three he spent in study, oftea burning
the midnight o'.l.
Presently the business of the cor
poration which employed htm t6ok a
spurt His boss asked blm to work
nights. Viy the advice of his parents
lie willingly consented to put in three
nights a week at his desk. But that
vas sot satisfactory. It was demand
ed that he work six nights a week.
mat would, or course, nave pur an
rid to fels studies in college. Again
wild pareatal counsel he declined to
make the sacrifice and was instantly
discharged.
There can be no question that a
corporation which expects its em
ployes to work nights six nighta a
week, without paying for the extra
time, Is unjust and unfair. If such
demands occur frequently It may be
set down as fairly certain that the
managers of the corporation are eith
er Incompetent or overgreedy.
Under the best conditions and ex
cept in cases of emergency overtime
ork Is rarely profitable. At the end
of a regular day no man Is In condi
tion to do his best or even good work,
without putting an unusual strain on
HOW CLOTH IS MADE
WONDERFUL WORK OF THE MOD
ERN AUTOMATIC LOOM.
its Product Is Harsh and Must Be Put
Through Many Processes Before
It la Ready for Market.
Every woven fabric Is made by
crossing or Interlacing two difatlnct se
ries of threads together. When the
jam comes from the spinner it Is
liiounted upon the loom in spools. So
wonderfully automatic are these mod
ern looms that when a bobbin Is emp
tied It is forced out and a full spool
Is put in its place without stopping
the loom. There are all classes of
ooms for all classes of material, from
"he thinnest fabrics up to the thick
est felts. To attempt to describe one
of them, or the principles on which
they are constructed, would Involve
the reader In a wilderness of techni
calities. The power-loom is one of
the most remarkable and complex of
mechanical products, the growth of
lnany years of experience and Ingenu
ity, and the crystalization of the in
ventive genius of many minds.
fhe doth In the shop-window resem
bles the cloth as It comes from the
loom so remotely that there would
r,iHDi to te no relationship between
(lieu. The Hist product of the loom
fs usually uncouth, harsh, and auy
thlrg but Inviting In appearance. It
has to pass through many processes
before U 1 finished and made ready
for the market H I first mended so
jta to correct weaving faults as far as
possible. Then It Is scoured and thor
oughly cleansed. Again it Is looked
over and mended bwfore It passes to
the fulllcs w milling machine, which,
Uk ou 8fld fullers' earth, produce
TT 17
his powers. That fact Is recognized
both by co'r.pc-tent employers, who or
der overtime work with the greatest
reluctance, and by all organized work
erg, who exact more pay for overtime
than for regular work.
To H. W. T., porsnnully, n few sug
gestions may be made. A very young
man Is almost always lacking in tact.
He Is likely to put things bluntly and
abruptly. When nn obstacle rises In
his path he magnifies It Into a moun
tain and tries to climb straight up Its
steep sideH, when, perhaps, there Is
an easy path around it. He does not
know that many battles ere won by
appearing to yield.
Corporation managers are, after all,
very human. And, In common with
most men, they have a great sym
pathy for an ambitious and lndnstriou
youth. It may be that If II. W. T.
had, with apparent willingness, accept
ed the order for overtime work, his
manager would, a little later, have
arranged to give him time for his
study and recitations.
, H. W. T. will find, ns he grows old
er, how to use tact In dealing with his
superiors In business, without at all
hurting his own self-respect In the
meantime he cannot go far wrong so
long as he is guided by the greater ex
parlence and worldly wisdom of his
father and mother.
TALE WITH
Old Merchant Shows There Is
Such a Thing as Being "Too
Blamed Faithful."
HIS SON SEES THE POINT
Young Partner Wants Some Recre
ation but Concludes That He Will
"Hold On to the Rod a Little
While Longer."
At the end of his f rst year out of
college a young man saw "& Son" put
after bis father's name on the old
weather stained sign that stretched
across the front wall of a building that
had become a landmark In the whole
sale district. After twelve months in
and out of the. concern he had become
a junior member.
"I say, dad," he asked, "how long
must a fellow stay at his post before
he gets a leave for recreation, you
know?"
The founder of the house clasped
his hands across the back of his head,
lowered his cigar from Its usual anglo,
and looked at the blue flames danc
ing on the gas log.
"To put It another way, dad," said
the young partner, "do you believe
that the sticker wins out?"
The old man's story was an answer
to both questions.
"When I was a boy," he began, "It
the finish that is required. Then it Is
scoured again, Tenterlng Is the enxt
process. This sets the cloth at a sat
isfactory width and straightens It for
tho operations that follow, the first of
which Is called raising. The millions
of tiny hooks on the gigging machine
raise tip the fibers on the surface of
the cloth and leave them in an upright
position. The pile or nap Is the re
sult This produces a remarkable
change In the appearance and condi
tion of the fabric. Shearing Is the
next thing. This cuts off all the
raised fibers, leaving tbem of a uni
form length. The required gloss and
solidity are obtained by the pressing
which follows. Harper's Weekly.
LATE INVENTIONS.
A moisture, gas, aud even explosion
proof telephone for use In mines has
been Invented.
To prevent a horse getting his tall
over reins a Califoruian has patented
a strap to be attached to harness,
supporting a wire arch to hold the
reins too high for the tall to reach
them.
A fountain marking brush, some
what resembling a huge fountain pen.
has been patented by a Michigan man.
Of Invaluable service to students of
singing is said to be a machine In
vented by a Paris physician which
records the vibrations of the voice
on a photographic film.
A new Jack for automobiles Is con
veniently operated by a long brace of
the type used for boring deep holes
Into wood.
Pa's Opinion.
"Pa, what Is a cynical bachelor?"
"A cyskal bachelor, my son. Is an
unmarried man who thinks a woman
says i will on her wedding day and
'! won't' for the rest of her life."
fi T
Paper Twine and Fabrics.
After a 10 years' study of the hand
spun paper yarns and twines used In
China and Japnn long ngo. and- the
attempts made In the United States
some 20 years ago to spin paper yarns
for textile purposes, Carl Pontus Hell
burg of llolmsted, Switzerland, claims
to have solved the problem by using
plno fibre and Improved methods of
treatment In manufacture. After de
scribing previous difficulties and fail
ures, Mr. Hellburg says:
"The appearance Rnd strength of
the yarn will depend on the quality of
the paper. From Swedish kraft a
very strong yarn is obtained. In or
der to ohtaln on 'absolutely first-class
ynrn from pine fiber, finished paper
made from tho very best sulphite or
sulphate pulp must be used, this pulp
to be made from tho slow-growing
while pine which Is found in Russia.
Finland. Sweden. Norway, Canada and
the United Slates The spinning of
yarn from finished paper gives that
yarn a suitable strength. It has also
been proved by the trials I have made
that Swedish kraft pnper gives a yarn
20 to 25 per cent stronger than other
kinds of paper.
"Putting aside the advantage of ob
taining a stronger yarn by using fin
ished paper Instead of pulp, there t
no saving in producing yarn from the
pulp direct as the pulp, or half-made
paper, as it should be called. In order
to be spun has to be subjected to the
same featment as In making paper,
with the exception of the finishing."
A MORAL
was necessary for me to become, a
family helper. A new concern opened
In the town and I got a job on trial
at $3 a week. I was to do anything
I was asked to do, anything to my
strength and ability.
"The storehouse was on the bank of
the river convenient to the steamboat
landing. It was a pastime In those
days we who have made the fight
like to recur to 6uch days for rival
steamboats on their return voyage
down tho river our town was the
head of navigation to run up a mile
or so above the landing and from that
point turn and race by the water front
until they reached the bend and dis
appeared. It was a great event for
the people of the town and lots of fun
for the steamboat folks.
"On one occasion the boss of the
establishment where I was holding
my first job, and some of tho employ
es of the concern were putting In
plsce the scales on which freights
were to be weighed. The rod connect
ing tho machinery of the platform
with the upright and arm of the scales
was pui. In my hands. I was to hold
tho rod until the necessary arrange
ment was made to perfect the whole.
"While I stood at my post somebody
in the store cried out: 'They're off.'
That meant that two steamers bad
started on the race. The boss and ev
ery man under him Ecampered through
the back door to the levee to watch
the run. I know if I let go the roi all
the work would havo to be done over
again, and I stood there like another
Casablanca, of whom you may have
hrard before you went to college. I
was there when the boss and his force
returned. My faithfulness enabled
them to finish the Job they had begun.
All the while they were talking about
the race.
"At the end of the week the boss
Informed me that while I was a nice
boy and faithful, the concern would
not need my services any longer. May
be I hadn't the sort of stuff in me that
the concern required, but from that
time until I reached the point that
has enabled me to take you Into this
concern I never missed an opportunity
t mix a little fun In my business, es
pecially wtcn the man higher up took
the lead. There Is such a thing, my
boy, as being too blamed faithful, but
you must use Judgment in letting go."
"Fine, dad," said the Junior. "I reck
on I'll hold the rod a little whllo long
er. There'll be other races."
World's Largest Loom.
At Rodewisch, in Saxony, the cen
ter of the German textile Industry,
there has been set up what la
thought to be the largest weaving
loom In the world. This huge crank
loom is 77 feet long and CO teet wide.
It. stands 10 feet high and weighs
35 tons. The shuttle is of corre
sponding proportions, and travels to
and fro at the rate of 15 times a rn'n
ute. ThU machine la capable of turning
out seamless disks of felt, such as exe
used In paper mills, up to 233 feet la
circumference. Harper's Weekly.
Japanese Census on European Lines.
The Japanese are going to take
their next census according to Euro
pean methods. A Japanese professor
from the University of Tokyo la now
in Rome with a view to studying the
taking of the .Italian census, lie
knows Italian as perfectly as a native.
He has already Leen In Berlin and
Vienna with a similar obJcu Tba
Japanese census U to be takon on
more exact lines than has ever been
attempted oa previous occasions.
One is constantly Impressed afresh
ith the truth of King Solomon's say
jig that there Is nothing new under
.he sun. If there was anything In this
world well recognized as of recent or
gin, it was cold storage, for the pres
rvatlon of foods of one kind or anoth
er. Hut now It turns out that th
Chinese were familiar with the prin
ciples and practice of cold storage
many centuries, and probably thou
sands of years ago.
Dr. Frank N. Myer, plant-hunter foi
:he department of agriculture, mad
an Interesting study of this subject
recently. Ho finds that the Chines)
have a method of keeping grapes frorc
3ne year to another an Idea certaia
ly unknown to ourselves by storini
them in deep, dugout cellars, wher
they are kept cold by placing has
kets of broken ice among the basket!
of fruit.
It is a common practice of frul
merchants In China to keep perish
able fruits In fresh condition by tin
use of largo and very thick earthet
Jars. A quantity of broken ice is pui
In the bottom of each Jar, and upor
this Is placed a woven wicker has
ket In which the fruit is kept. Th
Jar Is closed with a wooden cover
which often has a strip of felt around
It, to make the Insulation as complett
as possible. Or. Myer says that i:
Is remarkable how well this BlmpU
contrivance serves Its purpose.
Of such Importance Is the cold stor
age business in China, for the preser
vation of a great variety of foods, that
enormous quantities of ice are gath
ered in the neighborhood of towns
andNillages in the winter time. It Is
considered so precious that every ob
talnahla bit of It is collected, even
when It Is as thin as half an inch.
The mode of storing It Is primitive
enough, but highly satisfactory, the
buildings used for the purpose being
of baked mud with very thick walls.
Such material, being a first-class non
conductor of heat, serves admirably
the end in view. Indeed, it Is said
that these Chinese Ice houses are
much better than ours, so far as the
keeping of their contents goes.
Mean Trick on Minister.
A clergyman is not supposed to
have his wordly sense developed to
the point of making bargains, and,
this being generally recognized, he is
rarely neglected in the way of fees.
Imposing upon a clergyman not only
seems discreditable on the face of it,
but Is seldom undertaken on account
or its ease. Here Is one of premedita
tion. A marrying couple applied for
the services of a minister, tho man
carrying a bird cage. At the conclu
sion of the ceremony the man said:
"I haven't any money to give you, but
I would like to present vou tonjon-Qw
with a fine parrot which can do most
anything." The minister expressed a
satisfaction which he may not havo
felt, and the new husband continued:
"This parrot will have to have a cage.
I havo a brand new one here, which
Just suits, and I will sell It tor 5,"
The parson bit and pnid the price, and
usual wlndup the bridegroom never
came back with tho parrot. Chicago
Evening Post.
No Cause for Alarm.
One of the cars of a suburban train
which came Into the Grand Central
terminal a few days ago had its usual
complement of early morning passen
gers, but many of them were stand,
ing, although a number of seats were
unoccupied. The conductor, unable
to account for the cause, aBked one
of the standing men why he didn't
sit down, and was told that the child
sitting in the center of the deserted
part of the car had the whooping
cough. The child was coughing, and
the mother, blind to the small panic
created by the youngster's evident dis
tress, was slapping the little one's
back vigorously. She was the last to
leave the car, and when told how the
child's malady had frightened the oth
er passengers, she said; "Whooping
cough nothing; The kid swallowed
a piece of chowing gum!" New York
Tribune.
When the Crowd Looks.
Along the packed streets, with sun
baked faces and tense looks, a crowd
of people Is hurrying. Eagerly, keen
ly, they jostle by each other, and el
bow their way forward. Their eyes
are strained, as are the eyes of gold
hunters. And gold hunters, In truth,
they represent as they pour along the
narrow, swarming roads.
Suddenly a babel of voices Ftays
them, and their thoughts change In
stantly. Yes, every single thought In
that vast mass of humanity! The
millionaire rubs shoulders with the
tramp. Tho clerk's sleeve brushes
that of the manager. The gold-seeking
tide Is arrested.
A clatter, a gasp, a delirious mur
mur of "Ah!" And then, as the old
'bus horse Btaggers to Its feet th
human throngs remm:e their hurry
ing way. Answers, London.
One Chance.
"Let's all change our pleas to
'guilty,' " said one of tlie defendants.
"It's our last hope."
"Hope? How'd you figure that out?"
"Why, we've lied so much now that
the court might not believe u."
Judge'i LIbrax"
(
l
V
(
N
t
FORESHADOWING already what
we may expect for the coming
fall Reason, the hats for late
summer Indicate tbat we shall have
many bonnet-like shapes, tall crowns
and large hats few in number as com
pared to small and medium-sized
models. Outing hats for July and Au
gust are of felt In white or light
colors, such as Alice blue, champagne
and the season's beautiful pink tones.
These are either all felt or felt and
bemp combinations and are trimmed
with scarfs, bands, soft draperies of
chiffon and wings or ribbon. They
are exquisite and, it must be con
fessed, fragile In the matter of keep
ing clean. Hut they remain present
able for some time and are cleaned
with fine sandpaper. Everywhere the
floating white veil accompanies these
cool-looking creations of the milliner.
The veils are of lace, in several va
rieties. In coarse silk nets and In
chiffon. They are all washable and
add Immensely to the attractiveness
of the hats, and the complexion, for
they are worn either over or off the
face.
More pretentious millinery is shown
AFTERNOON DRESS.
IT:.
Peacock blue Irish poplin Is chosen
for our model. The plain skirt has
a row of satin-covered buttons sewn
part way up the seam at right side of
front.
Tho bodice has a yoko of whlto
tucked nlnon over peacock blue; a
braided or fancy silk waistcoat sur
rounds the yoke. The sides are of
material; they are carried down over
tho top of sleeves, which have fancy
cuffs edged with nlnon frills.
Hat of peacock blue straw with a
puffed crown of nlnon to match, and
trimmed below by a wreath of pale
pink roses.
Materials required: yards pop
lin 42 lnchos wide, Vi yard tucked
El on, 'i yard Bilk 20 Inches wide.
Apron Pockets.
'Sew the pocket of your apron on
tho Inside, a little in from the rlght
ha id "sdge. Nothing will drop from
It then, It will atay clean and a great
deal ran be carried In It without
trowing any ugly fullness.
IP' :
4fjfu
V- . "
! -," . -" '
. -
, ' :..
--' ' v .... ,
m . : v.;,
W
A v":
1 ' 1 -j
1 fB
In the trimmed models pictured here.
One of the cone-shaped hats, of
which we may expect to see numbers
during the fall season. Is shown In
the Illustration. It Is trimmed with
a full ruche of silk "pinked" at the
fdges and laid In quadruplo box-plait-Ings.
Velvet fruit, like plums, cher
ries or even apricots, Bet In theee
ruchlngs make a trimming chic and
striking. Velvet fruit, In fact. Is de
veloping so much popularity tbat It
will probably stay with us and add a
charming note to winter millinery,
and hats made offelt In the shape
pictured here are quite like to be
trimmed In the same way.
A model of black hemp, with a mod
erately tall crown, is also Bhown. It
Is calculated to pave the way for ex
tremely high-crowned models, or
crowns trimmed extremely high,
which Paris says, are to be a vogue
for winter. This soft-crowned model
makes use of the feather band about
the brim edge and is finished with a
cluster of upstanding plumes at the
back. An ornament made of plaited
ribbon finishes the trim, poised oa the
crown at the right side.
TO PREVENT SAGGING SKIRTS
Have Garment Properly Prepared Be
fore It Is Turned Up to
Ee Hemmed.
Summer dross skirts when made of
thin material will pjwiiys sag after
they are hemmed and finished if caro
la not taken to prevent It. A good way
to do is to have the skirt b;irco1 first
before It Is turned up to bo hemmed.
This Is done after tho skirt is com
pletely finished evcepllrg tho hem,
from tho bund to tho final fitting and
tho last hook and eye Is in Its place.
The skirt is now hung In a closet or.
better rtlll, put upon a full-length
dress form raised from the floor by
placing It on a box, and the bias por
tions of the gores weighted so thoy
will stretch to the fullest extent.
After several days of this strain the
material will have sagged to Its full
est extent, and tho hom may be meas
ured and turned up. Anything will
do for weighing. The smallest weights
from the kitchen scales, put In tem
porary coverings of muslin and pin
ned on, are excellent. Any other small
objects of uniform heaviness will do
for other weights.
A Curious Fashion.
The latest models In skirts or In
costumes with attached skirts and
waista show the skirt decidedly short
er In front than at the back, a differ
ence which, In the walking length Is
very notlcuable. Even ballroom gowns
are cut on the same lines.
"Shows the embroidery on the front
of her socks and hides tho darns in
tho heels." said a male' critic of one
of theso gowns, and his cruel remark
accurately describes tho style
Why such an untidy fashion should
have come from Paris at a season
when ah tho crudeness of spring has
usually been eliminated from Its gar
ments Is a puzzle, but here It Is nev
ertheless, and many frocks that would
otherwise have been graceful have
been marred by it.
Sashes.
One of the greatest aids In varying
tho white summer gowns Is the use
of the sash, which Is tho style us
much as ever.
The velvet sash of tho w'nter Is
superseded by the pastel colored
moires and tho lighter chiffon ruches
black In color, ns an edging, this fin
ished with black chenlllo fringe nnd
flowers of tho fame at the thds, som
being decorated wllh wreaths of gold
roses at the ends In place of the other
decoration.
These aro eome of the newer fan
cies that seem at once to becomo pop
ular, as they ero shown In oba of th
most exclusive shopa.
I