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CLAEA BELLE AT SEA.! Giddy Girls Who Went to See the Yacht Eace3 Off New York Bay and What They Had On. A Picture Made on Board a Vessel and Afterwards Suppressed Prom Pru dential Reasons. Head Gear of the iLubberly J^ands- j Head Gear of the Lubberly Lands- women and. the Corset Steel That Snapped Over the Taffrail. Fall Fashions, the Thini***; in Fabrics j and^Some Glittering Generali- ties for the Fair Sex. New York, Sept Onr best society has been all afloat for two weeks. The In ternational and other yacht races have been deemed the right stylish things to see. and . many is the giddy party composed fora day's outintr; and when you have found out to a dead certainty the exact number of these human cargoes you will know pre jisely how many spectacles of seasickness ; there were. Here is a man: he is a very salty old sailor. Here is a girl: she is an extremely fresh land maiden. She is the prettier of the two to look at, is she not? The contrast between hi- roughness and her smoothness is something marked, in deed. i made the sketch mostly on her ac count, to show the fashion in which some of us dressed semi-nautically for the trips. An hour later 1 drew the two again, but I didn't send the picti to the engraver. There are passages in the life of a gentle maiden that are too sensi tively personal, too privately grievous, too much her own personal,exquisite property to be illustrated in a newspaper—and chief of these is when she breaks her front corset steel over the taffrail of a yacht, and feeds the dear little fishes with the victuals she has not thought to yield out of her stomach in any such way. Rather let me illustrate the clever manner in which we solved the millinery problem. A good yacht in z breeze is bound to blow the tirst intent >ns all out of ordinary bonnet trimmings. Note the contrivances on ■nese neaas. ano you win prcceive mar mey ire so adroitly fashioned that a hurricane •ulllil only distort them into still inure pic turesque shapes, st at all. 0, the simple naideu may get sea-sick, but she couldn't use her presence of mind about her mil inery. In the way of general dress, the new In the way of general dress, the new fabrics are exceedingly tine in texture and pmlity: the patterns remarkable for artis tic combinations, quaint beauty and pret tily blending contrasts in variety and color. Blue, brown and green are the.' colors that will prevail tliis season, if the productions if such Parisian modistes as Rodrigues, Felix, Raudnitz and others are to be con sidered. Other shades and tints will un doubtedly be used, but the three specially mention will be the standards. A PUFF it the top of the sleeve is again noticed upon stylish dresses of Parisian make, ln some instances the pull' is full and narrow, Mid agaui it is much less full and longer, sometimes reaching to the elbow. Coat sleeves have had a long reign, and it is probable that they have now to abdicate in favor of styles adopted by the early English ens. cue pretty sleeve, for " instance, has appeared which fits the arm snugly at the upper part, with a slashed puff let in at the elbow, tight-fitting again at the wrist. and there terminating in a narrow puff, or otherwise, made in the form of an arum lily, and spreading over the back of the npper portiou of the hand Of course, with the tendency to use less pliant goods than for merly comes an increase in the dimensions or the apparent dimensions of the form. Skirts look fuller, whether they are or not. and even when a bustle is not worn the hunching of the plaits or gathers in the back and the arrangement of the scarf or sash in a puff or double-looped bow produce the effect of one. Then the waists are long. and the style of making as it-das taste or fancy could demand. A good place to study fashion is at th.c theater, but when I tried ii this week I got so maddened with an actor that 1 couldn't pay attention to anything else. When 1 say 1 was mad I mean angry. Personality has a great deal to do with success on the stage, anda man who has an unpleasant manner over the glare of the flights will never become popular. There is such an actor, or sincer—l scarcely know which to call him. he is so undeniably bad. both vo cally md verbally. His name is, no matter what, and he is evidently a masher. That is, he thinks so. which nowadays amounts to pretty much the same thing, as far as reputation is concerned. lie has a common place face, an insignificant figure and awkward movements, but all these might be forgotten if it were not for the astound ing assurance of the fellow. A few nights ago 1 chanced to be at the theater when he came in on the stage. He is supposed to be a man of title and high social position in the play. As he strode in he stuck a single srlass in one eye, assumed a supercilious scowl, strode down the footlights, and" BEGAN TO DELIBERATELY STAKE at the audience. "What few words he had to speak he uttered in a perfunctory and careless manner, while he stood within ten inches of the footlights, his legs apart, his hands crowded in his pockets and a killing smile on his lips. First he stared at all tie boxes systematically, a.nd one, which hap pened to contain me, heid his attention for at least a minute, lie -tared at me with such ail air of brazen effrontery that I was startled, and then raising my fan I deliber ately turned my head away toward my mother, while my -escort in the box pulled his moustache and only succeeded in con cealing his displeasure by the aid of inhe rent good breeding. The actor was not the least abashed by the snub, but continued to stare at. me. and when he began his solo a moment later he sang it at our box. Over looking the fact that this particular speci men of a stag masher is a married man with two children, I feel like advising him m a spirit of kindness and gentle i insistence that .he could never hope j to make any favorable impres- • sion on a woman when he is singing. This '■ is first because he has acquired the habit of singing from the stomach and, second, be cause his mouth is not pretty when he sings. His habit when he begins his vocal performances is to walk down towards the footlights, push tiiat part of his person which in enveloped by the waistband of his trousers far out. open his mouth very wide. and emit a hoarse and rumbling sound which before it swells into a voice, resembles somewhat the noise which results from beating an empty cask with a club. In order to give the sound full vent he pulls his chin in so far, that it is confounded with his neck, and grows violently red in the face. I trust that these few* remarks will not offend him. He should remember that no man has a right to insult' giris. no matter what his position may be, and any one certainly has the right to criticise actors after paying the price of admission to the show. BOTH NAUUOW AND WIDE Scarfs, intended for scarf draperies of wool dresses, are brought out in woolen stuffs similar to the cloths, serges, diagonals and rough surfaced camel's hair and mohair goods which load the dry goods counters at this moment. Some of the scarfs are fringed at each end. Some are figured in Byzantine borders on the ends, and others shot with bourette threads contrasting witn. Hie grounds. Borders are used not only on the skirts of dresses but also on the long overskirt and the redingote or polonaise, which is revived iv a somewhat new form this fa!!. But it is a veritable polonaise, the same old friend with a slightly altered form this fall. Novelties In dress patterns of most descriptions exhibit a rough surface in startling-contrast with the smooth-faced goods of last season. "•Homespun," that earliest of cities in rough woolen goods, has already gained popularity in the tailor dresses, ami affords au enduring material for costumes in which to brave all weathers. Another popular line of goods is repre sented in shaggy -camel's hair, which shows a bewildering variety of styles in checked ami tufted designs. Plush is restored to high favor, both for dresses and wraps, and will run a neek-and neck race with velvet after popularity. The frise figured and striped plushes are ex ceedingly attractive; so are figured plushes in two tones. the changeable plushes and plushes showing a cashmere stripe. Vel vets exhibit an equally wide diversity of styles, the very richest being that which is striped in two or three tones of color; also, that overlaid with variegated stripes. Vel vet brocades are also out in two tow of color, end then there are brocades with lace effect. Beautiful fabrics for combination with plain goods are those with sou woolen grounds overlaid with cut brocade figures; these show two shades of the same color, and also appear in silk and wool mixtures. : THE GIBL WHO SEBVED ME in a dressmaking shop, the other day. made me laugh fit to kill. She was taking the seams of a corsage here and there to make it snug on me, and the first thing I knew pop went a pin right into me a quarter of an inch or so. I yelled o-u-c-h long enough to make the word fill two or three of these lines. "Good gracious, my girl," I said, "didn't you know that I lived inside ray bodice?"' "O, yes, mam'selle. 1 beg your pardon if I have hurt you." The creature seemed so contritely sorry that I felt like making an excuse for her. and so I remarked, with a smile; "I sup pose you have been so accustomed to pin garments on dummies that you forgot for the moment that you were fitting a human being." "it wasn't precisely that," she replied. "For five years I was a dressing maid for ," and she mentioned an actress remarkable for airiness of costume on the stage. "She was like a pin cushion in a good many parts or her surface, so exten sively did she pad, and naturally I got into j the habit of beiug reckless in using pins on her. In a moment of inadvertence 1 must have imagined that you were she. —Clara Belle in Cincinnati Enquirer. .^ Another of Tho-.c Intelligent Jiost*. Another of Thote intelligent Jiost*. "This dog," said the judge, "belonged to a friend of mine, who used always to take him out with him. The dog used to wait outside for him when he went in to call on a friend. One night they were a merry party and they kept it up late. My friend got very drunk. The dog finally got restless and began to howL A champagne bottle (flung from the window) just passed his nose, and he smelt it and shut up. About 2 o'clock in the morning my friend came out. He said good-night, shut the door, walked in by the garden gate all over the flower-beds, and finally, unable to get out, he lay down on a rosebush and went to sleep. The dog watched by him till the milkman came along in the morning, picked him up and took him home." "That's nothing." said the doctor. "You iust wait a minute. Two or three nights later he went and called on his friend again and took the dog with him. The dog waited a little while and began to howl. Another champagne, bottle was thrown at him. He smelt it, winked to himself and trotted off. Ile went home, scratched at the door till the servant girl opened it, at tracted my friend's wife's attention, made her follow him to a pile of planks, and whined till they got out a very long and broad one. Then he directed them to where his master was, and when the door bell rang and the door opened, the revelers found the dog, my friend's wife the ser vant and a stretcher. The dog knew what was needed, you bet." ■**. Iflnch Like Coal Oil Johnny. Much Like Coal Oil Johnny. Much interest has been taken at Kaater skill, says the Poughkeepsie News-Press, in the elegant eccentricities of a lady from Pittsburg, whose husband acquired an im mense fortune through the invention of a useful railroad appliance. This lady had an immense number of trunks, ami not only a dress for every day in the week, but some say for every hour in the day. Her taste in dress is peculiar, and "on all occasions she was the most notable lady in the house. She had with her as proteges a party of young ladies, in whose dress she also took an interest Her expenditure was lavish and she appeared to have no idea of the value of money, some of her exploits in the spending line being very much of the Coal-Oil-Johnny order. She was in the habit of occasionally going to the clerk, and asking for a little money for ordinary cur rent expenses around the hotel, and on one or two occasions nearly startled him out of his boots by saying, when asked how much. "a thousand or two will do. I guess." For ordinary services this lady has been in the habit of throwing waiters five-dollar bills. She is the same lady who took a fancy to have a span of cream-colored horses, ami com missioned a man to travel over the country and get them for her. which he did. anil brought a bill for 53.000. A short time afterward one of the horses (they were both shod with silver shoes) died and she had him stuffed and his stall fixed up as an elegant equine mausoleum. —•— _ A GIRL'S Kfc'i'UOS^JEC'jr. The summer is over. The season Was cold at the sea-side, you know; This weather perhaps was the reason That none of us captured a beau. For the men found it cool in the city. And the brokers were blue, it was thought, So we lost every chance (what a pity!), And no dashing- fellow was caught. So Maud and Madola and Lillie. Viola, Xarcissa, and I, Were left in the shade (am I silly?) To wait till next year— to sigh. For nothing- is done in the winter In town, with (jay talk and fine clothes; No lectin says, "My dear Araminta," And none is betrayed to propose. But when you walk out by the water, And moonlight falls soft on the shore. The primmest mamma's plainest daughter Some masculine heart will adore. I hope if we go there next season, We girls, by half-dozens and twelves, Will uot again need, in all reason. To just simply waltz with ourselves. Of girls who were blushing and twenty, With some who were near twenty-five, There always were more than a plenty. And yet not a man would arrive. How wearily all the long summer We wandered by seashore and tide, And foDnd no available comer A bridegroom, perhaps, with his bride. We would stroll to the depot and steamer To see what was rarer than pearls, Each one a deliberate schemer, Aud 10, a new bevy of girls I The coats and the hats were all wanting, No garment bifurcate was seen, And some gray-headed old maids were taunt- ing* Tjs of it (I thought it was mean). Another such year would be awful. For what are line feathers and clothes, lf fate is to make it unlawful For girls to be furnished with beaux? The summer has vanished and faded; The forests are withered and sere; No lover our hearts has invaded— 'Tis horrid to wait a whole year! —Joel Benton in Harpers' for October. /r__p; st. FATJL 'daily globj_, SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 4, 1886. THE WOMAN'S GLOBE.! Some Appetising E9flection3 Abotit the Some Appetizing Eeflections About the t Preparation and Decoration ofthe Family Dining Table. A Sweet Woman with Angel Instincts, A Sweet "Woman with Angel Instincts, Clasping Tightly a Cornu copia of Goodness. The American Girl's Elbows--Royal Woman's Will--Mission and Influence of C' ess. Wonderful Chemical Process—Care of Infants' Food—Why Women Break. Down. Woman's Sphere, "They talk about a woman's sphere As tho' it had a limit; There's not a place on earth, in heav'n, '; here's not a task to man kin l giv'n, There's not a blessing* or a woe. There's not a whisper, '"yes" or "uo," There's not a life, or death or birth, That has a feather's weight of worth Without a woman in it." —Minnie Palmer. .S«*gg-eslionH for the Disiinsr Table. To begin with, then, let the table, when !no one is present but the home circle, be the model'of what it should be when sur- rounded by guests. Lay a piece of thick Canton flannel under your tablecloth. Even coarse napery will look like a much better quality with a sub-cove than if spread di rectly over the bare table top. Avoid the cheap tricks of hotels and restaurants in, the arrangement of napkins and table utensils. Simplicity is never ridiculous, while pre- tension usually is. Place the napkin on the left side of the plate with a piece of bread in its folds, the fork on the right hand, next 7 that the knife with the sharp edg*. turned from the one who is to use it. beyond this the soup spoon. At the point of these set the tumbler and individual butter plate. Mats, tablespoons, salt-cellars and pepper cruets may be arranged to suit one's own taste. Banish the heavy castor from the center of the table and put there instead a vase of flowers, if it be nothing more ambi tious than some _ bits of ivy or evergreen, brightened by a spray of bittersweet. At t'ne carver place spread a white napkin, the point towards the middle of tne table. to protect the cloth from splashes of gravy. Let the soup be served by the mistress aud eaten with no accompaniment except a piece of dry bread held in the hand. But- tering it is" only less vulgar than thickening the contents "of the plate with crumbs. When this course has been removed the meat and vegetables may be placed on the table. If there is salad it should be served separately, in a course by itself. The heavy part of the dinner eaten, the maid should be summoned and should commence clearing off the table by carrying out, first the meat, then the dishes of vegetables and after that plates, placing one on top of the other and using a tray to transfer everything except the large platters. Do not permit her to go through the operation of scraping the contents of one plate into another with a clatter of knives and forks and then bear- ing off the whole pile at once. Two plates at a time are enough for one load. Next after the soiled dishes have taken off mats, ' sait-cellars and other table furniture but tumblers, water bottle or pitcher, napkin rings and ice bowl, and then have the crumb brush and tray used. The dessert is then served and except at a ceremonious dinner the tea or coffee, which should never appear earlier in the action, and the work of waiting is done. When one realizes the exceeding simplicity of this much-dreaded branch of domestic service it seems incom prehensible that in so many families dainty waiting should be unknown. lam well aware that the question of serving is gen- erally the sticking point. It is very hard —sometimes impossible—for the mistress with but one maid of all work to demand Chat that one shall be a practiced waitress. It is much easier to have the food jumbled on the table in a helter-skelter fashion than bo run the risk of making trouble by insist- ing that it shall be served in courses. But the matter is not so difficult, after all. if the servant understands from the beginning that this will be required of her.Good House- keeping. ~Witb Ansel Instincts. A writer in the Pittsburg Commercial Gazette says: Last week I met one of those sweet women so aptly described by somebody as having come into the world with both hands outstretched like any dis tributing angel's— of the kind who clasps tightly only one thing and that is-a cornucopia of goodness, gentleness, sym pathy and charity which is at the command of every one in sorrow, need, sickness or any other adversity. Does any one ween? Hers is the heart to ache in response. Is any one in need? Hers is the purse to be opened and emptied. Is any one sick unto death? She is prompt to don nurse's cap and apron and share the night watches until the final hour comes. She is not an augel; no, far from it. She is only dipped in "angel instincts." which keep her heart open to every cry for help and her ear alert for every tale of sorrow. A great grief had suddenly come upon her. and those who had been ever welcome to pour their troubles into her listening ear came from far and near to render sweet condolence and gra cious sympathy. Her self-sacrifice, her zeal in all good works, her intelligent ac- tivity and practical faculty had won for her the sincere love of a very wide circle, and when her own time of deep affliction came she was abundantly sustained by cvi- dences of devotion which can only be the lot of characters like her own. Would that there were more such women in t'ne world carrying benedictions by their very pres ence. In marked contrast to them are those other women, who. almost as soon as they are bom, take their places at the receipt of custom find exact tithes from every passer- by. Selfish and helpless, they are burdens to their friends and acquaintances; but somehow the lintels of their dwellings are marked with the sign of safety, and they live on as parasites upon those who are the j fittest to survive. ; English Fashions in Hair-Dressing-. English Fashions in Hair-Dressing-. A decided novelty in hair-dressing brought out this season, and adopted by young ladies well-known in the fashionable world, is pompadour fringe. Those who have a sufficiency of hair simply turn it over a cushion, curling a few short pieces resting on the forehead —a very becoming style. Under less fortunate circumstances, how- ever, it is possible to procure a piece of waved hair to wear over the cushion, with curls at the edge. Such additions have been much worn this season at the drawing- rooms. The back hair is either arranged in a succession ot fine basket plaits, or is turned up from the nape of the neck to the top of the head; but it is no longer the fashion to comb it in such a way that it is quite plain at the back of the head. It is" arranged so that the hair appears to cross, ! and a side-comb with balls is often placed where the crossing comes. Unless the hair is very thick the comb does not easily keep in. The way to carry this out is as follows: I Part the hair at the back from ear to ear; i comb upward and secure the upper portion. I The other half divide transversely: then j take each half and divide it again; frizz the top. comb the lower portion over it. turn it up from left to right, repeat on the other side from right to left. This gives a cer- tain amount of firmness in which to insert the comb. If there are any curls at the nape of the neck they should be either j curled with irons on rollers or on paper; the latter generally the most successful. There is another simple plan, which sue- ceeds where the hair is inclined to curl. Make a hairpin redhot; when it is a little cool wind the curls around them, draw the pin out, and nothing more is needed. With fine soft hair there is often great difficulty in making hairpins stay in. A good idea is a pin which widens at the top and base, and is drawn close together in the middle. Silk-covered pins, matching the hair, are still more effectual, and the small real or imitation tortoise-shell hair- pins. When the hair is turned upward it is the fashion now to twist it into a sue- cession of rings, and they are often each of them fastened down with the gold or tortoise-shell pins. The imitation ones cost but a few pence. It is no longer the mode to have a large. high frizzy fringe over the face; the fringes j are Closer, tidier, and do not go far back. A waved piece of false hair is most use- j ful in hair-dressing, either to place above ! the forehead or at the back, and the hair when turned up is most frequently waved. Some women of fashion follow the lead of the Princess of Wales, who has a gold jew eled sword or arrow thrust through the plaits. It is most in unison with current notions to keep the head as neat and small | as possible, studying the form of the head. j It is an object to have the hair silky-look- . ing, and for this purpose it . requires much ' careful and continuous -: brushing.— London Queen. The Royal Estate. The recent changes in the royal family must at least prove highly profitably to the I lawyers concerned. Last year the queen j made a fresh settlement of her private prop erty after the Duke of Albany's death, and now 1 hear that entirely new testamentary arrangements have been made by her maj esty. The amount of the queen's private property is unknown, but I am told that, including the Prince Consort's fortune and Mr. Nield's it exceeds four millions, and, besides these, there are the estates in Aberdeenshire, which extend to 33,01)0 acres: the Claremont property, which her majesty purchased from the country three years ago at a very inadequate price; and the Osborne estate, which has enormously increased in value; to say nothing of prop erty at Baden-Baden and at Coburg. It is probable that the bulk of the Isle of Wight property will be left by the queen to the Dnke of Connaught; and Balmoral and must of the Scotch property to Princess Beatrice, who also will probably get Clare mont. They will be her majesty's principal heirs, and a very handsome provision has been made for the children of the Duch ess of Albany, and for the families of Prin cess Christian and the Grand Duke of Hesse. Parasol, Glove, Petticoat. Blackbirds appear upon a dress bonnet and sunshade, to be worn en suite. Ecru and black parasols harmonize with any dress. There is a disposition to restore dressed kid gloves to favor. Orchids and narcissus of precious stones are some of the novelties in brooches. Some princess dresses lately seen opened in front, showing an elaborate petticoat. White muslin gowns have collars, cuffs and sashes of colored velvet. Cream-colored foulards have rosebuds or wild roses strewn over them. A fancy which has been seized upon by French ladies may be utilized by our coun try-women who are deft with the needle. Before relegating to the rag-bag old em broidered muslin or lace curtains, first cut away the delicate designs or flowers, what ever they may be, and use these as models in applique work for table-scarf, screens, cushions, etc: Nothing is easier than to embroider over the contour of the figures. her in silk or wool, a handsome "raised" effect being the result of the overwork. J*lission and lueuce of Dress. So long as the world stands there will be envious women, women who will make their own lives a failure, wreck domestic happiness, cause "financial embarrassment, etc.. etc.. by their inordinate love of dis play in dress. This touches pretty nearly the social evil problem, and also suggests one reason why so many young men choose to remain unmarried. It therefore devolves upon all true and sensible women to do what they can to cheek these tendencies of our time. We cannot make one rule of dress for all classes of women, and no woman should be judged or misjudged, by her style in dress. Con science should have somewhat to do in this matter, and therefore we lay down this principle, viz: Xo woman has a right to adorn herself in a manner which shall cause unpleasant criticism, either as to herself, personally, or those upon whom she is de- . pendent for her raiment. Many women have independent incomes; others have relatives who make gifts of a pretty costume to a less-favored friend, and we do well to be careful of one another's feelings in this matter. There is so much that is beautiful in dress, and fashion al lows us to secure such delightful harmony of color and design, with so much of liberty as well, that there would seem to be no rea son \yhy every sensible woman should not be neatly and suitably dressed, according to her station in life. When mothers talk less of dress before their little children, when school girls have less time to gossip overthe cost and variety of clothes, when young ladies are cordially welcomed in social circles for what they are in. and of, themselves, and not for what they wear, when wives cease to annoy their husbands because they cannot dress as well, or better, than some other men's wives: in short, when conscience and common sense control this whole matter, the ideal dress will be in vogue, and, probably, that "'when' will usher in "the millennium." Precipitated a Pretty Woman. A celebrated Parisian belle, who had ac quired the habit of whitewashing herself, so, to speak, from the soles of her feet to the roots of her head with chemically per pared cosmetics, one day took a medicated bath, and on emerging from it she was horrified to find herself as black as an Ethiopian. The transformation was com plete; not a vestige of the "supreme Cau casian race" was left. Her physician was sent for in alarm and haste. On his ar rival he laughed immoderately, and said: "Madam, you are not ill; you are a chemi cal product. You are no longer a woman, but a sulphide. It is not now a question of medical treatment, but of simple chemical reaction. I .-.hail subject you to a bath of sulphuric acid diluted with water. The acid will have the honor of combining with you; it will take up the sulphur, the metal will produce a sulphate, and we shall find as a precipitate a very pretty woman." The good-natured physician went through with his reaction, aud the belle was re stored to her membership with the white race. Young ladies who are ambitious of snowy complexions should remember this, and be careful what powders and cosmetics they use — they use any at all. Sashes and Belts. Deep crimson and moss-green are a fre quent combination in sash ribbons. Sashes are no longer tied behind, fashion having decreed that they are to be knotted on the side. Garments of real lace are draped and ar ranged in a single piece. They serve for young as well as for old ladies. The gathered waists, "guimpes," and crossed fichus are taken under the belts. They are also used over lace garments. Velvet sashes are silk lined, with crimson or gold color gathered to a point on the ends.and finished with a siik tassel the color of the lining. Belts and half belts retain their hold on favor. , Half belts start from the seams under the arms and close in front under a ' clasp or ribbon bow. Watered ribbon sashes are tied on the : left hip in two loops, with very long ends. When tied directly behind the ends fre- i quently reach within a few inches of the ; bottom of the dress. One of these mantles has the back and 1 front pleated, and the front has long ends. ! The short back terminates in a large puff. which starts from the waist. A wide, round belt closes on one side under a bow. On the lower part of the ends are jet orna- i ments with tassels. The same ornaments form epaulets and trim the back and front of the mantle. Care of Infants* Nourishment. Too much emphasis cannot be given to the injunction to keep milk sweet in hot weather. The infant's natural nourish ment needs almost as much care in summer as does the consumer of it. The best method of keeping it unchanged, and there fore .wholesome, is to set it in a clean, cold refrigerator as soon as it comes into the house. When it is needed, take the pitcher or cup into which it is to be poured to the refrigerator, not the milk-pan into the kitchen. Nurses generally neglect this precaution. The pan is often left in the heated outer air for five, ten, or fifteen minutes, thus causing the milk to "turn." In the country where ice is not readily obtainable, a really good cellar, a spring house, or a dairy through which runs a liv ing stream of water is the next best thing to a refrigerator. If none of these is at hand, pour the milk intended for the' baby into a clean stone jug, cork it securely, tie oiled silk over the stopper and suspend the vessel in the well. — Babyhood; Why Women Break Down, There is little doubt that women are breaking down more rapidly than men, be cause they allow themselves to take less real rest. When a man drops his business j, he drops it. When a woman lets go of | any work she may have in mind she ties it to her apron string, as it were. She has been taught through long ages of training that it is a high crime and a misdemeanor to let anything escape her mind, so she is con stantly when she is at rest pinching herself or prodding herself to see it she hasn't for gotten something. In this way she carries the burdens of her work into her resting hours, and sits down among the roses of re laxation with her foot on the treadle on the grindstone of prosy drudgery. If men kept their noses to the grindstone with womanly persistence they would be nervous and irritable beyond compare. If women would get their own consent to rest they would have better complexions, better stomachs, and a happier lite. —Chicago In ter-Ocean. Basques, Tunique and Mantle. Odd basques, presenting a wonderful ar ray of new freaks and fancies, both in shape and adorning, will become more and more fashionable as the season advances. V.-st effects will be multiplied, and three separate gilets will often appear upon a single bodice. A new and very dressy tunique, called "Tunique June," is of white or black lace. but generally of the material last named. It may be worn over any dress, and, with the present passion for plain suits without drapings, is a most valuable addition to the fashions. The tuniques may be trimmed with a bordering of jet. worked on the gar ment, or with bands of galloon. There are endless varieties of small man tles for cool evenings, and for the reigu of the dog star comes exquisite black lace shapes, with a mixture of silks and elabor ate beading. Other varieties show a mingling of silk, lace and brocade. This style reaches some distance below the waist, and has a full trimming of lace. As a matter of economy in fabrics this little wrap is recommended. The sleeves are lace, and the back may be either of the brocaded or the plain. A small garment called "Mantelet Cap ricorne" is of black mervellieux or colored velvet. The ends are short in front and form a slight point. Falling from the point area number of black satin ribbon loops. The back is cut into the figure, is long, and forms a double pleat on the lower part of the waist. The fullness in the back is folded down on the inside of the basque, and the goods falls in two gracefully draped ends, which terminate in a point. The sleeve is rounded over the shoulder and sewed to the back and front seam of the garment. The collar is straight. The trimming is of jet or leaden beads or beads of different colors. Rich ornaments in this style cover the back of the garment, the shoulders and the points of the basque. Fashiox .Notes. Plain black silk will be worn. Fichus of all colors are in vogue. Lace shawls, square and pointed, are utilized as drapery. When flowers are worn they are placed in the belt. Stocks are worn by Parisian dames with cambric chemisettes. Horseshoes and merry thoughts are in high favor in jewelry. Bibbons with velvet and plush stripes and with fringes are popular. Serges are finer and softer than ever be fore, aud are highly favored by English women. The newest style is to have the bodice of the plain fabric, and use the figured for trimming and on the skirt. Plaids and stripes continue in favor. stripes being in the ascendant. They will be worn under plain overdresses. Algerian ribbon, which is woven of light wool with colored stripes, is used for trim ming dresses because it falls in graceful loops. The blood-red paper, fashionable at one time, but never popular, because of its startling brilliancy, is replaced by dark In dia blue. The current rumor is that bustles are de creasing in size; still, all the latest foreign plates show the dress held out as though by a shelf at the back. Gentlemen's handkerchiefs have wider borders of buff, autumn tints and royal pur ple, but a very fine quality of hem-stitched and plain white borders prevails. Velvet, plush, embroidered cloth and felt are the materials for the new bonnets. Both plain and embroidered velvets are used, and some striped velvets are shown. Buckles, clasps,slides, aud hooks in gold silver, steel, bronze, enamel, pearl, amber and jet are used with a free hand this au tumn both for dress ana millinery purposes. Cloth postilion basques made double breasted and edged with - hraid in tailor fashion are used by many, instead of jer seys, as an extra waist to wear with various skirts. The small underskirts are made of white, light blue or pink crepe de chine, a small flounce, then a wide one, both edged with wide lace. These skirts are made very short, indeed. Lace ruchings are finished by two rows of the lace hanging about three yards long from the neck and caught in at the waist belt; they are simple and stylish for youth ful ladies. A headgear for an elderly lady is of black French lace, festooned round a half-moon violet silk center, embroidered in iridescent heads, and fastened with black and pearl headed pins. Crepe or canvas or tulle ruchings two or three folds have tiny black velvet or col ored narrow ribbons placed at intervals in rows of two or three together, by way of ornamentation. In the latest thing in ladies' fine hose a handsome snake protrudes its fiery tongue and glittering eye at the instep, while the reptile's body winds round the upper part of the stocking. Dainty neckkerchiefs for ladies are of finest muslin, some embroidered in field flowers, others in gold and silver threads. Sheaves of wheat and grapes, etc., are the novel designs. Plush and velvet are to be worn during the coming season. Velvets are striped, il luminated, figured, embroidered, and in corduroy effects as well as plain. Seal plush is in great demand. A 808-TAIL. BITTY. Ram em in. Jam 'em in, Push 'em in, pack. Hustle 'em, Jostle 'em, Poke in the back. Tramp on 'em, Stamp on 'em, Make their bones crack. Fat woman, Zy-ZZX;- . Slat woman, Tom. Dick aDd Jack. Hans: on and Cling- ori. By teeth or by hair. Hey there! Now stay there, And pass up yer fan**' PEN PICTURES. The Early Days of St. Paul, With Brief Biographical Anecdotes of Old Settlers. First Groceries Sold on Samples— Beaupre Thirty-Three Years in Business. Martin Delaney and His Cattle Trade- Charles E. Mayo and ills Busy Lite. Fast Horses and the Man Who Knows Them—The Last Old Settlers. |Copyri(?hted by T. M. Newson.] BRUNO BEAUPRE. --?*!' Beaupre was born In Canada in 1823, and is of French descent. At the age of 14 years be moved with his parents to Oswego, N. T.. where he received a com mon school education; came to St. Paul in 1553, and has been a gro cery merchant here for thirty three years. At first he was in the firm of lemple A Beaupre, wholesale and retail dealers. On the death of Mr. Temple the firm became Beaupre & Kelly, continuing up to 1875, when it was changed to Mc- Quillan, Beaupre A Co. Since the Ist of Janu ary, 1877, it has been Beaupre, Alien &Ken«*h and is now Beaupre, Keogh & Co. The house has always had a good reputation; no man has given it more character than Mr. Beaupre. Since a resident of Minnesota he has lived a very busy, yet quiet life; has had very little to do with poli tics and never held a political office in his life, and if there is any pleasure or profil in office-holding, lie has generously let his neignbors have the lion's share. •Heis a do mestic man, quite contented to be the ruler of. a small household, and prosperity has not spoiled him, for he likes to see others comfortable as well as himself and is a friend to the poor. He was mar ried in 1855 to Miss Margaret Amelia Bam ford, and has four children living. SOLD THE FIRST GROCERIES. Mr. Beaupre was the tirst man this side of Chicago to take his gripsack to sell goods from St. Paul on samples, and he is now the oldest wholesale merchant in the city. It was an up-hill business over twenty-five years ago to sell goods at wholesale from St. Paul upon samples presented, and country merchants would frequently say to him: '-We don't understand how you can sell us goods at wholesale, when we carry stocks just as large as yours and buy just as cheaply as you do." Notwithstanding all this. with the extra energy and perseverer.ee he displayed, Mr. BeaupTe would sell them their groceries, and was therefore the first to convince the merchants in the country of the fact that they could buy their goods in St. Paul cheaper than elsewhere, and hence he became the father of the present immense jobbing trade of our already great and growing city. He is a tail and slender man, very active in busi ness, but quiet and unassuming on the street. Has been in poor heaith for several years and yet he Is a man of great energy and endurance, and enjoys a good horse and a fast team as well as any gentleman in the state. DISTRESSING TIMES—GRASSHOPPERS. In the latter part of 1857 times were ex erutiatinglv hard, and just in the midst of this financial pressure news came from Steams and other northern counties that millions of grasshoppers had cleaned out all the crops, aud a wail went up for help. I well remember when millions of these grasshoppers took tlieir flight southward in dense flocks, for while passing over St. Paul they actually obscured the sun as though an eclipse bail taken place. The wants of the unfortunate farmers were relieved, and the people strug gled on still hopeful for the good time coming, but those times tried men's souls and their pockets too I MARTEN DELANEY * Mr. Delaney was born in Ireland in 1838; emigrated to Xew York in 1847; learned the trade of a butcher and came to St. Paul in 1553; was government butcher at Fort Snelling; opened a meat stall in the market; built the first ex clusive meat shop in the city, near the Seven comers; ran a stall in the market and also his shop, twelve years; in IS7O built the first regular stock yards in the city or state, and in 1880, in partner ship with Capt. M. J. O'Connor, opened his present stock yards on the upper flats. Mr. Delaney says that in 1853 the popu lation of St. Paul consumed five cattle per day; now 125 cattle are required for city consumption daily, and that the prices of beef have doubled since then. Cattle at that time came from Illinois; now from Montana. In early days Mr. Delaney worked at farming for a short time on the property of Daniel Hopkins and owned some forty acres of land in Reserve township, which he sold for 5i1,500; worth now $40,000. Mr. Delaney is a large man, standing above six feet in his stockings; has a fresh, florid complexion, and is quiet and unostentatious in his ways. He has followed but one pursuit all his life, except for a few months of farming, and that is a dealer in stock, and in his special business he has no superior. He is a man of uniform temper and habits, and when in the company of his friends, is social and pleasant, a man very generally esteemed for his solid worth. CHARLES E. MAYO. Mr. Mayo is among our tallest citizens, rivaling iv height X. Myrick, and his familiar form is well known to all the old settlers. He has always been a very steady, very quiet, very temperate, very industrious and very respectable citizen. He is destitute of pedanticity and has no tendency toward grandiloquence, but is a gentleman of intrinsic merit, and though modest and retiring, yet he has performed his part in the great drama of frontier life. He was born in Massachusetts in 1827, where he was educated; clerked in a hard ware store in Boston for seven years; re- sided six months in Cincinnati; came to St. Paul in 1853: commenced the hardware business in 1854 on Third street, between Robert and . Jackson. After several re movals Mayo & Clark took a building on Third street, below the Merchants hotel, where they remained until they went out of business. Mr. Mayo was in the hardware trade for nearly thirty years, and during all this time he never held any public office, although he was one of the incorporators of the St. Paul Library association, and has j held every oflice in that institution from ' president down. He was also president of i the Historical society and was a member of tbe Academy of Xatural Sciences. He has never dealt in politics, and consequently has saved himself many hours of humilia tion and regret. He is very much interested in the genealogy of his family and has given much time and attention to it. MEETING OF FIRST STATE LEGISLATIVE. The meeting of the first state legislature was held in the old capitol building on Dec. 2, 1857. There was a general feeling of congratulation over the admission of the state, and active measures were taken to put the machinery in good working order. Gen. H. H. Sibley was the first state gov ernor. This was the eighth session of the territorial legislature and the first of the state. TWO FIRE MACHINES ORDERED. The council ordered this year two engines, and in view of this fact Hope Engine Xo. 1 and Minnehaha Company Xo. 2 were or- ganized. The boys were greatly pleased over the prospects of two genuine fire steamers. C. H. WILLIAMS. Here we have another son of the late C. W. Williams. He was born in Xew York city in 1834: removed to Detroit in 1836; was educated at Xotre Dame," lud.; learned the trade ot a painter; came to St Paul in 1853 and has followed his profes sion here ever since. He was chief en gineer of the. fire department in 185G-7-S-9. and in 1863-4, six terms in all. He speaks inthe warmest terms of the old volunteer fire department away back in 1854 and later. Mr. Williams is a very quiet man and very diligent in 'his business. He made an excellent chief engineer and has always been an enthusiastic and a devoted fireman. He is an unostentatious, industrious citizen. GEORGE A. NASH.^V. Mr. Xash was bom in Xew York state in 1529; educated there; clerked for Saunder Crane four years; with George Benham two years; was in a drug store seven years, and came to St. Paul in 1854: entered the em ploy of Mr. Ilickox, who kept a drug store on the corner of Third and Cedar streets; then removed to St. Anthony and pur chased the drug store of H. P. Sweet; was there until 1854; bought forty acres where Minneapolis now stands for 91,500; worth now $500,000-; built a farm-house and barn on it, and for a time worked his farm; traded ten lots for a top buggy; . same lots now worth $25,000; made a claim near where lion. E. M. Wilson's house now is, in Minneapolis, of eighty acres; sold his pre-emption right for 200; property now worth $2,000,000; was at Minneapolis when there were but two houses; also when the government order came throwing the land upon which Minneapolis is now situat ed open to settlement; traded his forty-acre farm for a house in St. Anthony; on the breaking out of the war took an active part in raising troops; tried to enter the army; was prevented by a lame leg; went with his brother in 1864 with the Sixth regiment as assistant sutler; after the war he traveled for a wholesale drug house two years; ooeued a livery stable in St. Paul; sold out and was appointed general agent of the New England Mutual Life Insurance com pany, and continued agent eight years; be came the general agent of the wa3 in business with E. G. Hodgson; took the agency for the Northwest of the Union Mutual of Maine, which he now holds. He purchased a lot on Dayton avenue ia 1880, for which he paid £(5,250; sold for 810.000; worth SIS,000; bought the corner on Third and Pleasant avenue for $4,500; worth SIS, 000 and upon this ground he has erected a block of dwellings which cost*' him $20,000. A GREAT LOVER OF HORSES. George Nash knows a good horse when he sees him, and this knowledge has en abled him to purchase animals for $300 and' sell for $1,500, and thus he has made con-: side ruble money in this specialty. He is a great lover of the horse and has a sort of intuitive conception of his good points. PERSONALLY. Mr. Nash is a wiry man of great energy of character, at one time the possessor of black hair and black beard, now a little gray. He walks and talks and acta promptly, decidedly, and is never idle— always on the go. Whatever he does, he does according to Scripture, with all his might. He is positive in his expressions, rapid in his movements, and is as good a judge of horse flesh as any man in the Xortiiwest. D. c. PRICE. Dr. Price, dentist, was born in New York in 1830: educated there and studied dentis try; removed to St. Louis in 1851; opened an oflice and practiced his profession; mar ried in 1553; remained In St. Louis nearly four years and came to St. Paul in 1854; took dentistry rooms over Combs' book store in upper town. Third street; moved to the old Bice red brick house, which used to stand on the comer Of Third and Wash ington streets, where the Metropolitan now is; and here he remained eight years; then occupied rooms over the United States ex press office, corner of Third and Cedar streets,.and finally removed to his present quarters on Third street, above Bridge square, wliere he has remained some fifteen years. He is the oldest dentist in the city and was the first president of the first den tal association in the state. AS HE is. Dr. Price is a fine-looking man, well pro portioned physically, and walks very erect, more like a man bred in a military school than a dentist. He is dignified in his bear ing, yet courteous, and though not ming ling much with the people, yet he is a gen tleman of fine feelings and cultivated tastes. He has been in the dentistry business thirty four years, and during rive years of that time he did not lose ten days from his office. Very few men have been more devoted to their profession than Dr. Price, and though he has turned the corner of fifty, yet he is a young-looking man, and with his profes sion and his lovely family about him, he gets as much happiness out of the world and glides as quietly through it as most men I meet. JOHN WAGNER. Mr. Wagner was bom in Germany in 1836; emigrated to America in 1852, and remained in Illinois two years, when, in 1854, he came to St. Paul, and his first work was to mow hay on the road to Ft. Snell ing. His next move was to buy a blind horse and an old dray and go into the ex press business, and in this he made from $10 to $15 per day. He was with Henry Timme three years, but in 1857 started the California saloon and continued this up to 1859, when he went into the ice business and remained in that up to 1874; opened a store on Bobert street, but is now dealing largely in coal and wood. Mr. Wagner ia a well-moulded, compact man, of medium size, always pleasant and agreeable, and is a solid citizen. As a specimen of his finan cial genius, he had only $70 to buy the blind horse with, and borrowed S4 to make up the amount, and after using the animal some time sold it for $100. Mr. Wagner is a good citizen and a solid man. N. P. INGALLS. A tall, fine-looking man was Mr. In galls of thirty years ago, with black hair and black whiskers, and he is a good-look ing man now, only he is considerably gray, with a step less elastic and an eye less bright. He was always a quiet man, and moved in his especial line of business with out a riffle. He was born in New Hamp shire in 18-.'-2. where he was educated and received a musical training; taught music in Concord for some time: came to St. Paul jn 1854: was engaged in teaching music up to 1861, when he entered the army as the leader of the First Regiment band. Of late years he has been a tuner of pianos, in which business he is now en gaged. THE LAST MAX. This year an act incorporating the Old Settlers' association was passed. The as sociation permitted any person to join i( who had come to the territory to live prior to 1850, that is,, any person who came here in 1849. The seal of the society represents an old man some time in the year 1900, groping among the graves of his former comrades,the last one of them all. His hair is white; his locks are thin; his shoulders are bent; his eye is weak; bis step is faltering; his face is pale; he leans upon his staff; he is looking for something in the city of the dead, and while lie gazes on a well-rememb ered name on a tombstone,'' the children, fresh from school, pause aad watch the old gentleman and wonder if he were once a child like them. And then, in a little while the bell tolls; there are whisperings among the pioneers of Ramsey., county, 1857; there are murmu rings] among the members of the younger association of 1S60; there is a hushed stillness in the city among the elder members; an eclipse obscures the sun; "it is dark, and cold, and dreary." for the last old settler of 1849 is dead—the last member of the Old Settlers' society is gone! The ranks of 1857 are' considerably thinner than they were, but they pass to the front to fill up the gap death has made, backed by the vigorous juniors, who, in their time, must pass oft" the stage of life. And so the seasons come and go, the law of nature is fulfilled, the old settlers pass into history, new elements come to the front, and the places that knew us once know us no more forever. If we are philosophers we will accept this truth and this ultimatum and calmly and pleasantly abide the issue. A Sen-Gull's Curious ISoost. A tragic scene occurred on board th« steamship Republic on her last trip to thij port. When four days out . from Queens town Miss T. Hand, of 884 East Thirty fourth sired, died within half an hour aftei the services of the ship's doctor were called in. The young lady left here on the 4th of July last, under the advice of hex physician, to recruit her tailing health. Every preparation was made to bury the body at sea. The last rites of the church had been said and administered. Rough and yet kindly hands were ready to consign the body to the deep, when suddenly Miss M. Ward threw herself on the corpse and begged piteously that the remains should be brought to New York for interment. At the Intercession of two priests the remains were incased in a metalic casket, which was placed on deck, Within an hour a strange incident occurred. A sea-gull perched upon the casket, and, strange to say, remained there until it was caught. After some nursing and being well fed the bird was offered its liberty, but refused to leave. It was brought into port, and is now a pet on board. —Fordiiam Herald.