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LOVE AND FASHION.
Clara Belle Tells How the Two Closely
Intermingle at Every Summer
Resort She Visited.
Youna: People "Whose Eecreation Was Gaz
iug Into Each Others' Eyes and
Breathing Soft Nothings.
Courtship Carried On Under All Cir
cumstances, in Every Comer,
Heedless of Observers.
Early Information About What "Will
be the ••Correct Thing" During
the Coming Autumn.
Saratoga. Sept. 3, ISS6.— I came here
fif ter a great deal of deliberation. I wanted
to lie; away from love and love-making. Not
that 1 personally have been at all afflicted
with this new epidemic disease; no one will
think me so silly. But for eight weeks,
while I have been making a tour of the
watering; places, I have encountered so
many that were victims, in all stages and
in every blessed resort, that 1 felt as if my
very soul needed a rest, flippy love is
what tired me particularly. You know
what that is. It seizes girls just emanci
pated from short skirts, and boys just be
ginning to fee! a little fuzz on their upper
lips. Real, genuine love, when it grows to
be man's size, or woman's, is a modest)
shrinking; thing, like a woodland flower, It
hides itself, and you have to hunt to find
it. But this puppy and kitten love that is
now raging all along the coast is so awfully
incautious that you are continually running
against it, stumbling over it aud treadiug
on it.
THE OLD, OLD STORY
was illustrated at every point ot one's caze.
At a summer's night hop if 1 saw a beau es
pecially attentive to a belle — intently
at her white satin, point lace and other
beauties of toilet— l knew well enough that
I SMS, / <&A\^wJr
ho was only cognizant of the girl insicle of
and was making love to her. Why,
i wonder that 1 was able to sheer off from
■ a< much as 1 did while I was at
these piaees. for it seems to me now that it
■rial feature everywhere: always
two figures joined together
like tiie pans 01' a pair of scissors, parading
arm in arm on the beaches, hogged up under
umbrellas < n the sand, cuddled up in car
riage seats, glued side to side in row boats
and joined almost into one on the hotel pi-
A.nd then I would enter a female
fi end's room to ask her about some
thing important— say the exact shade
by dayiieht of her dress that was so lovely
by gaslight — and then she would be
in the midst of bearing her sixth proposal
of the season. Asa rule, it seems to be
between sixieen and eighteen years of age,
at which period ' ove is n0 more able to
hide its existence than it is possible to keep
a baby from
BquAixnro ix church.
Rut to come to the point: I flattered my
self it was the sea air and so I came here,
and oh. how I have been victimized. It's
as thick here as at the sea-shore.
•'Would you niind this girl's riding on
the box with me about half a mile? She is
my cousin, and I want to take her to her
home ri^ht on the road we are going," said
the driver of thp only carriage I could hire
nn tny first afternoon here. It was a little
chit of a girl that the boyish fellow pointed
to, it was the only carria.se, it was getting
late and 1 was both good-natured and un
suspicious. Besides, there was hardly
a house in the next half-mile, so I
said "yes." 1 really don't think I was
over more scandalized thau with what
presently happened. I had flattered myself
'
I was go?ns to appear well, for I had
stopped in New York and reinforced myself
with a hat of the newest device, and with
one or two other things not worth mention
ing but calculated to make me feel at ease
eveniu this dre: sy place. Butl had not gone
two blocks before I forgot all about myself.
First I heard a "teehee" or two from the
little girl, and toen I looked up and, bless
me. if tl;e boyish driver was not stealing his
idle arm around the waist of the arirl on the
box beside him. "Please drive straight
back again," I said, sternly. I never shall
cease to be thankful.that all this happened
in Judge Hilton's park, where I had been
visiting ata friend's cottage. If it had been
in the village. I should have fainted. And
yet it was a girl so young that in any other
»ge one would have called her a child.
It seems ridiculous, as I write in a tem
perature of 90 - in the shade of a hotel
veranda, to think of thick clothes; but it
wont be a month before we will be order
ing wraps for cold weather. So let us con
sider them. The most striking jacket I
bave discovered for autumn is th« coach
man's coat, made of smooth livery cloth,
with a turned-over collar. This is closely
fitted, double-breasted, extending well over
the hips. The colors for these tailor gar
ments are tan brown, navy blue, the gray
called Salambo and heliotrope. The coats
are lined throughout with satin and may be
made heavy enough for winter weather.
There are also wraps no longer than a
basque. The back and sleeves are of col
ored velvet, the fronts and the lower edge
being of lace loaded with embroidery of
beads of the same tint as the velvet. The
sleeves are slashed lengthwise, so that the
wrap
MAT BE PUT OFF AXD OX
without difficulty. Other short wraps are
of woolens— ecru, beige or brown — with
small woolen grelots studding the edges. A
convenient and economical fashion which
will continue in popularity will be the
wearing of a velvet jacket with skirts of
contrasting material. It is not essential
that velvet shall enter into the construction
of the skirt, for this portion of the costume
m*y be one and often two materials bearing
no relation whatever to the velvet basque.
Tho turned-over collar seen on new
mantles, and a soft, gathered plastoon ex
tends from the collar to the waist, where it
is met by a belt ribbon that begins on the
Bides and is tied with flowing ends in front.
Some very rich mantles have cashmere
colored beads in figures all over them.
or in stripes alternating with plush or
velvet stripes. There are also stylish cloth
mantles with frise figures, or else with the
boucle designs of dull brown and red to
gether, or brown with blue, or blue with
red. Among new shapes are the mantle
paletots of velvet, made with the sleeves
and i- uric of a jacket, but with long loose
mantilla fronts. The fashion of small
wraps now worn made of two and • some
times three different materials will be gen
eral. .Many of these are formed of dark
Lyons velvet, with sleeves that barely
reach the elbow, made of oriental nets. in
broche designs.. the nets woven of the rich
est silk flosses. Autumn wraps will be
made Chiefly in vlsite and jacket fashion,
and trimmed with black lace and hand
some ornaments, put on separately am!
not in one continuous band of passe
| nieuterie unless of
BOMI NOVEL ASI) r.NIQIK DESICiN.
The jackets now to be seen in the rooms
of the ultra-modish makers are short, tiirln
iitting, double-breasted garments, with a
very high collar that may be merely a
standing band, or else a turn-down collar
may be sewed to the top of this high band.
The front may b% titted by one dart, or by
two, as the figure of the wearer requires.
The bucks have but one side form, and are
plaited flatly at the end of the middle
forms. The sleeves are dose coal shape,
and the pockets are inside, with a band or
mere slit for an opening. Two rows of
small buttons, either plain lasting or braid
buttons, or else of wood, trim the front.
For tailor gownsdoths will be nwd in checks,
stripes, bars, plaids and the large blocks
that are now considered more suitable for
(listen and jackets. Among the autumn
fabrics are soft wool goods in new arrange
ments of color and Wdave, and also modifi
cations of existing designs, all giving
promise of stylish gowns. Among these
are wool diagonals, shot with two and
sometimes three gay contrasting colors:
Bilk-wrap serges, brightened with brilliant
lined stripes of velvet or of frhw bands
forming the stripe; dark colored canvas
and basket-cloth goods in olive brown, dark
blue, violet, violet and Baltic blue, with
lines of gold crossing the fancy weave, or
with bars of raised velvet in colors of
cardinal, egru and golden bronze running
in and out. Velvet and plush tufts appear
upon smooth* woolen surfaces, these fabrics
to Im> used as long Russian polonaise over
velvet skirts matched to the color of the
tuft
IT IS NOT THE SEASIDE
so much as it is the summer atmosphere
that generates this slate of love affairs
about which 1 wrote above. I happened to
sit beside tour or liw young women on the
piazza of a hotel in Saratoga waiting for
the music to begin. They must have
thought me deat, for they talked aloud.
They were talking of love, and talking of
it exactly as so many medical students
would be apt to discuss the symptoms of
rheumatism or dyspepsia.
'"It gives me a sinking sensation," said
one; "just as if 1 was faiut or frightened.
Do you feel it that way."
'•No," another replied; "but I don't know
my own mind. 1 don't know whether I really
am in love, and then 1 am afraid he is not
in love, or I think he is not going to be
true, or that 1 cant keep on fascinating
■him, and— oh, dear, it's so very disturbing
1 wish I was out of it."
"It reminds me of when I had aterrrible
fever," said a third maiden; '"I am burn
ing one minute, ami all of a tremble the
next, and 1 can't sleep, and my appetite's
all gone, and. oh. so many things are odd
about it; but I rather like it, all the same."
But that is all I care to repeat, in fact, it
is about all 1 heard, for I moved my place,
as \ou can imagine. This morning 1 was
pouring out my lamentation to a young
girl, the younger sister of a dead friend.
>he is at least IT, and rather beyond the
kitten love period, but I thought it would
do no harm to let her know the truth about
this imitation of the noble passion by little
chits. She quite agreed with me, she said,
and then she went ou:
"But I have a confession to make,
Clara." said she; I a»n in a frightfully aw
ful situation. You see lam engaged to
be married in New York, and when 1 came
up here I got engaged to a young fellow up
here, you know, just for fun. He is rich,
you know, and quite distinguished in ap
pearance, but it wasn't that which made
me let him engage himself to me so much
as tiiat all the other girls, that is, the nice
girls, were head over heels after him. It
was so pleasant to cut them out. Now,
you see, 1 had done the same thing last
summer. I was engaged to the same young
gentleman in New York then (really en
gaged, you know), and I got engaged up
here — "
"For mercy's sake!" 1 exclaimed; "what
sort of a story are you telling me?"
"Why. it's quite customary Clara; that
is, among girls of any life at all. You get
engaged up here - because it's better all
around. You select a
REALLY KICK, PIIOPEIi YOUNG MAX,
and you are both devoied to one another,
and it takes up all of your spare time; and
then at parting you manage to quarrel (it's
quite easy to do it), and off he goes to Chi
cago or New Orleans, and you go home to
your real beau. Well, as I was going to
say, I managed it beautifully last season —
quarreled all right, and never heard any
more about it. But this year things are
going to be different. lam in an awful
scrape. This young man is a Southerner,
and he talks of shooting anybody that looks
at me, and of killing himself if I reject
him, and oh. my! I can see that I'll never,
never be able to get rid ot him."
1 did not sympathize with her. I might
have suggested that she write to her New
York young man to attend a shooting gal
lery and take lessons preparatory to an en
counter with the Southerner, but I did not
think it just exactly a tit subject for joking.
But I am only telling you what success at
tended my efforts to get away from the
scourge of the summer resorts. To make
it very short, it is just simply no success at
all. Why, I strolled into the pretty and
ancient graveyard just at the edge of the
village, and if there were not at least six
couples tucked away on the grave-stones in
the by-paths, and all courting at 100 pounds
pressure, 1 am no correspondent of yours.
Butl like Saratoga, and I like it "better
and better the more I see of it. I always
used to wonder why I liked it and why it
was so popular with New Yorkers. It does
not do to say it's on account of the springs,
because one-half the people here don't
touch the springs. Once is enough for a
good many, and I'm one of the number.
And it is not because it is such a pretty
place, for between ourselves we have not a
great many prettier places a great deal
nearer home. No, the real reason why
New Yorkers flock to Saratoga so is be
cause it is so like New York. You find
your milliner up here and jour dressmaker,
and the people wear the correct cut and
style of clothes, and you run across your
family doctor and your next-door neigh
bor and the same waiters who serve
you in town in the winter, and all
that sort of thing. Why, I half expect to
see a Fourth avenue horse-car every time
I open my window in the hotel of a morn
ing.
It seems funny, doesn't it, to go in the
country and live almost exactly as you did
in the city, with a Wall street ticker and
Wall street brokers' offices down stairs and
hot and cold water in your rooms and the
New York morning papers only a few
hours late. But that's what makes Sara
toga a New Yorkers paradise, especially
for the men, who have the races thrown in
and a big gambling place a great deal
wider open than any gamblers have dared
to keep their places in New York for two
years or more. If they only would pass a
law preventing children from imitating lov
ing the places would be simply perfect.
Clara Belle in Cincinnati Enquirer.
A Gold-Covered Dog.
Montlcello (Col.) Champion.
A dog which has been riding up and
down the mines on cages and wandering
through drifts and crosscuts was recently
washed and his shaggy coat of hair assayed
$28. 17 worth of gold dust.
Same Tliin?—i'i::iuuts and All.
Cambridge Chronicle.
"Did you ever goto the circus, Tommy ?"
asked one small boy of another.
"No." said Tommy; "my folks won't let
me. But they took me out to hear Sara
J oiies preach.
Queen Mar lit.
The nijrht Is a maiden
With beautiful eyes
That shine through tho a?O3
From deeps in the skies.
Her clusters of jewels
Flash out from her hair
Anl encircle her neck
With radiance rare.
She is shy, she is coy,
And flirts with young Day
Ever leading him on
In innocent play.
I love her! I love her!
I bask in her smile.
Let her flirt with young Day —
She's mine ail the while.
—Detroit Free Press.
ST. PAUL DAILY GLOBE SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 12, 188&- SIXTEEN PAGES:,
THE WOMAN'S GLOBE.
Why Cupid Should Not be Allowed Too
Early Sway in Hearts of Youths
and Maidens.
Young Married People Should Make an
Effort to Secure Their Own Par
ticular Nests.
Boom of the Qualities Which Make
American Beauty Fumed iv Every
Quarter of the Globe.
JLute Information . Regarding Fash
lon's Decercs lor the Coniluji Fall
and Winter Seasons.
A WINSOME E.AN'-ai-; IS MY LOVE.
A wiusonie lassie is my love.
Ben oath whoso long-, black, arching lashes
There lurk two bonniu roguish eyes
That tfliat and snap tike diamond flashes.
The apple blossom's fairest tint
Blooms ever in her cheeks' soft blushes;
And sweet her breath us zephyr's sijrbs
At eve 'mitl liowery hawthorn bushes.
When twilight conies and down the jrlen
The eo»vs comu homo 'mid gathering
shadows,
I meet her where the sunset tints
Still linger on tho fragrant meadows:
And there, till falls the silent night
And sinks the twinkling star of even,
I walk enraptured by tier side,
Nor dream of happier nours in heaven.
— Patrick AlcArdle.
eaulv UAMttl . ACiES.
Sonic of the Reasons Why They Are
Injudicious.
One of the strongest arguments brought
to bear against early marriages, says a
writer in the Philadelphia llecord, is that
a girl at 20 is hardly through with her
school books, and that she has had no time
to acquire any domestic knowledge, to say
nothing of the great world of human na
ture. Experience, which is .needed to tone
down the arrogance of youth, she has not
had; and. amiable and lovely as she may
he. she has not learned the divine art
of silence. Another source of do
mestic dissatisfaction in case of too
youthful marriage is, that women
rarely advance in literary acquire
ment after they have taken upon them
selves the vows of wifehood, whereas men.
as a rule, go on until they have passed
their prime. The pretty little wife who
was once his equal and met every require
ment of his taste, has fallen sadly into the
background; and, although he may con
tinue to cherish her, he will very likely, in
his mind, contrast her with the woman who
is up with the times, who can converse
with him and appreciate him. Possibly
the brainy woman would not keep his house
so well. Man is so constituted that, however
much he may like creature comforts, he
wants a comanpion in, his wife, and not
merely a housekeeper. The latter can be
hired for a compensation in dollars and
cents. He wants his wife to be something
above and beyond all this.
Ido not mean to say that there are no
happy marriages consummated in early
youth, but the chances are against it.
Diana of Poictiers at the age of 13 married
a widower of 50, and there is no record that
her twenty years of married life did not
hold its fall measure of bliss, although her
subsequent years would seem to attest the
contrary. However, it was a dangerous
experiment. It is the law ot nature for
gay youth to love gay youth, and a wide
discrepancy in point of years is quite as
likely to result fatally as a wide discrepancy
in point of taste. It is not often that a girl
of 25 has the same tastes she
had at IS. The heyday of romance
is not .so strong within her. She
looks beneath the handsome exterior
for some inward graces of mind and
heart, and the chances are in favor of her
happier marriage. Love , is proverbially
blind; he is more— he is willfully blind —
and should be made to open his eyes. A
little common seuse mingles advantageously
with everything, and so iai from being out
of place, it is absolutely essential to safety
in affairs of the heart. And in this the
mature maiden has an immense advantage.
Ibue will have struck the plane of her life,
and the man whom she fancies and who
fancies her will be very apt to be haimonious
to the highest degree. It is a solemn
thing to get married, and, if it is a sol
einner not to," it is better in this
matter to "bide a wee." Undue haste
in matrimonial alliances often re
sults in unspeakable misery.
VOL OWN HO ME.
Something 1 That Every loung
Couple Should Work for £nr
nestlv:
One of the very; first things that a young
married couple should think of, says a
writer in the Toledo Blade, is the getting
of a home of their own; a house which is
th«ir "to»have and to hold" for a lifetime,
if possible; one that shall be to their chil
dren a place around which all their youth
ful memories gather, and bring a glow to
their hearts, no matter what may come to
them in after years; one in which each
room will, in process of time, become en
deared through its associations. It may
seem far away in the distance at first, but
persistent thought and effort in that direc
tion will bring it to pass in time, and much
sooner than at first seemed probable.
"It is much cheaper to rent," say you.
When the expense of moving around is
taken into consideration, the wear and tear
upon the furniture tnat is entailed, the
making over of old things to tit new places,
you have equal, if not greater expense,
without half of the comfort. Necessity or
expediency may make renting the only
thing to do for a season, but I still adhere
to the opinion that it is the truest economy
and highest wisdom to get a home of your
own at the earliest moment that you can
make it practicable.
These peripatetic people have rarely
much of value that they can call their own
for in the very nature of things they could
not have. The family lack the sense of
permanency in regard to a house which is
always so desirable, and especially wlien
people are on the down-hill side of life.
While young and vigorous, with brains
busy about what is going on in the world,
its absence is not felt so much, but the day
must come when the interests will be grad
ually withdrawn with the waning strength
from purely outside matters and center
within the home, and it is then that the
heart longs for and is best satisfied witli
what long habit has made dear and famil
iar.
Another thing is true. Your expendi
tures are much more likely to be carefully
looked after if you have such an object in
view. I know a couple who boarded for
some years after their marriage, then rented
a house and went to housekeeping. They
lived up to every cent of their income,
though never running in debt. Finally
they concluded to have a home of their
own, and took advantage of the installment
plan; that is, they had a house built for
them by persons who make that sort of
thing their business, gave a mort
gage upon it to secure the
builder, and paid for it in monthly
installments. The undertaking caused a
complete change in their way of living.
Without being niggardly, they looked
closely after expenses, and found that they,
could enjoy lite just as well as ever, and
even better, because they had a definite ob
ject in view which absorbed their thoughts,
and for which they were planning from day
to day. They go without many little lux
uries to which they were accustomed, but
they do not feel the deprivation in the
comfort they take in what is to be really a
home, not just simply a temporary place to
live in.
AJIEBICAN lil 41T1.
la «"Uat it ConsKts and Hoiv it Ex
cels Every Otber Land.
Chicaeo Herald.
What particular type of American girl
would you like to be, should some fairy
godmother now call upon you to respond to
your wishes? Doubtless you would be only
yourself, with perhaps some fancied im
provement here or there. A smoother
skin, a more sparkling eye, a well shaped
nose, a dimpled chin, lips like cherries, and
teeth like pearls, a lissome form, a grace- 1
ful walk, with one or two other items con
sidered essential to perfect beauty.
A very natural aspiration this of the fom
niine heart, and, by no means unknown to
the masculine. Wo all like to stand fair
before the mirror and the world, but women
mosl so, because attractive power is the
more necessary for them.
In what does personal beauty consist?
We are aware ot it when we see it. but it
is not easy to define. No description in
words quite conveys it to us. We are all
agreed there must be shapeliness, grace,
proportion, color, health and a harmo
nious combination of the perfections
of {which the human body is capa
ble, These are the qualities that belong
to beauty, but they must be informed with
sentiment, passion, lutellect and feeling, or
our admiration soon ceases. The wax doll
beauty has but momentary attraction, and
insipidly arrayed In every external charm
of female loveliness finds only insipid ad
mirers.
The beauty of American women is famous
the world over. Scarce a traveler from
abroad but who has noted the fair faces of
our young sirls, their dainty forms and at
tractive graces. Every now and then some
dazzling belle, some queen of beauty, goes
abroad, and iv London, in Paris, in Vienna,
in Home, and in every capital she visits,
draws about her a throng of admiring wor
shipers and becomes the acknowledged
beauty of the season. Fairness of face
and form are only part of her charms. She
possesses that nameless attraction more po
tent than grace and more bewitching than
beauty, which the French call chic and we
call style. The English or German woman
puts on a Parisian-made costume, and
straightway it becomes a stiff and graceless
garb. Ail the ideality of dress has vanished
from it. An American girl arrays
herself for the first time in the latest
creation of Worth, gives her skirts a shake
and a flirt, turns around before the mirror,
and walks forth in a garment whose every
undulation serves only the better to set off
her beauty. All the mysteries of under
skirts, the secrets of color, the knotting of
ribbons and sashes, tne carrying of trains,
come to her by intuition. She is born to
the purple, and all the elements of dress
obey her. She may not be like the Pari
sian, able to set a fashion, but she can fol
low it when set, in faultless style.
The beauty of our fair countrywomen is
so common that we have never raved over
it, as they have done in other lands, and
we have never had professional beauties.
Our standard, too, must be higher, for Mrs.
Langtry has never won the admiration here
she did in London, while our beauties who
have been abroad have many rivals at home
who in pubiic estimation surpass them.
And tliis seems almost conclusive that our
country may properly boast of more fair
women than any country under the sun.
FA LI, FASHIONS.
Sonic of tlie Pretty Ef feet* in Wool-
ens That Will be 2 opular.
The goods which are most generally
needed, and bought for early autumn suits
for ladies, are light- weight woolens, and
the^e the shopkeepers have already begun
to display upon their counters, ready to
catch the eye of those wiio are soonest home
from seashore or mountain.
Stripes prevail in these new goods, whether
they are of domestic manufacture or for
eign importation; in the wools which will
be used for shopping, visiting and general
street wear, as well as in silks and velvets
for house dresses. The very narrow "pin
stripes" or "hair-line stripes" which were
seen to a limited extent last spring are
shown in great variety this season and
promise to be very popular. The stripes
are for the most part very close together,
the spaces between being scarce a sixteenth
of an inch in width. The lines or stripes
are often of silk, which gives — more es
pecially in the combinations of bla^k. navy
blue, gray, dark red, etc., with white— a
sheeny, silvery effect, which is very pretty
indeed. Other combinations shown are
dark red, with navy blue, yellow or beige
lines, with black, brown or blue,
white with chocolate brown, shades of
green, chaudron, which is a coppery red
color, with brown or electric blue, and many
other varieties. These goods are usually
used to make the whole costume. The
basque, draperies and jaunty little coat may
be finished with simple stitched edges,
handsome buttons being the only rlecora-
C«r7^jff£«ju&teg3?*
tions used; or there may be vest, cuffs and
collar on the bascnie, or roiling cuffs and
buttons on the coat of velvet, which com
bines or contrasts prettily with the goods.
Among the new woolens to be used in
combination costumes of fancy and plain
goods are some decided novelties, stripes
being seen here also, almost to the exclu
sion of every other style. Pomponette
stripes show little round tufts, or pompons,
of silk In rows, sometimes alone, sometimes
alternating with little squares of shorter
frise loops. One pattern shown had the
pomponette stripe of shades of green on an
olive green background. This background,
like the plain, solid colored goods which is
sold to combine with the striped material
was woven in the Herring-bone diagonal
twill which gives the striped effect pecidiar
to Chuddah .shawls. This weave is seen in
many of the new materials and is very
handsome. Nearly all the new wool goods
show a twilled or diagonal surface of one
sort or another. One of these with a very
heavy twill, coming in brown, garnet and
gray, had fancy goods for combination,
showing the same twill alternating with
wide stripes of piush in shades of the same
color. Cashmere stripes are another
novelty. One pattern showed copper
red as the predominating color in
the cashmere portion of the desiern
which alternated with stripes of
electric blue plash. One in which yellow
predominate. l was striped with brown
plush. Of course a very little of these gay
colored fabrics is needed in any costume,
the greater part being of the soft twiliod
d8&
woollens, vhich come in solid colors to
match the fancy giols. Another design
showed, on a soft diagonal woven ground of
dark blue or brown, a wide piush stripe of
the same color, in which were scattered
soft tufts of white of a longer pile. Not un
like the cashmere stripes in general effect
are the "nioyenage" stripes, which are seen
on the same sort of goods; while last on the
present list of imported novelties in wool
are those in which the plush stripes consist
of narrow bands between which are seen
rows of fine beads. These are woven firm
ly into the fabric by some mysterious
process, and, though small in themselves,
are extremely effective in lighting up the
otherwise rather heavy looking material.
Among the combination goods of domes
tic manufacture are some very handsome
mixtures, woven in a soft, loose fashion,
and striped with an indefinite cashmere
like design, in which some one color pre
dominates, as red in a dark gray mixture,
ecru with brown, etc.
A few checks are also shown, the pret
tiest being about half an inch in size,
formed of three or four threads of white,
black and white, red and white or yellow
and white, on soft twilled goods of dark
red, blue, brown or black.
The designs which are given with this
are pretty when made up in the wool goods
described above, and will need no further
explanation.
SEA-Sii 1.1- UO.-WKTS.
llrifflit A ill ii in ii.i I Tint«» Some New
freaks of fashion for the Fall.
All the new fall bonnets and hats show a
mingling of very bright colors. A coarse
straw of navy blue is trimmed with Vene
tian red, a russet brown with poppies and
wheat ears, and a dark green with an im
mense cluster of scarlet dahlias Stiff fea
thers and birds are used instead of flowers,
but only on hats aud capote bonnets. Some
times as many as three doves or seagulls
adorn one small turban.
Bright buttons for street basques are
again in fashion. They measure almost an
inch in diameter, and are placed only an
inch apart.
.Most of the new street toilets have four
f^m^S^^^^^i 7
reeds in * the skirt. They are not drawn •
closely together, and have a more bouffant,
effect.
Walking skirts are somewhat shorter this
fall, and reach only to the instep in front
and escape the ground in the back.
Walking jackets in fawn, mouse, white
and green are to be the favorites this season.
Scarlet ones have become too common to
find favor among the ultra fashionable.
Smooth cloths and small buttons are also
preferred, and extreme military effects are
not noticeable.
Yellow and black-checked hosiery are
fashionable just now, but are too ugly to
remain in favor. -:
The favorite, (roods for bridal dresses this
fall seems to be heavy faille silk, which is as
soft as surah, and yet resembles gros-grain
in quality. Trains are made from one to
two yards long, and are generally plain or
finished with a heavy niching of the silk.
There is a slight tendency toward com
bination street dresses of cloth and velvet,
but it is not likely to become prevalent.
Costumes for the street are made, of tine
cloth, and are trimmed with braid, buttons
and machine stitching.
Several evening bodices of kid have been
imported. They are lined with silk and
lace under the arms. Stiff whalebones
placed at each seam keep them in place,
and the strap sleeves fasten with a buckle
on the shoulder.
. Scarlet and gray riding habits are com
ing into fashion. They are trimmed witn
black braid on the basque, the skirt being
short and plain.
Oriental lace is tabooed on street dresses
for this season. It is, however, in favor
for afternoon or evening house toilets.
Notes of the Fashions.
New York Sun.
Linen cull's are again worn.
Polonaises are again In vogue.
Chetnisets grow in fashionable favor. "-
The newest sleeve is cut till in one piece.
Fall hats aud bonnets have very high
crowns. .
The collars of new frocKs are higher than
ever.
New linen cuffs are very close around the
wrist. ; ]■'•' -!»■»-<■•
Chintz figures are printed on new silk
stockings.
Tailor gowns will be more worn than ever
this fall.
All seafns in the waists of new dresses are
whalebone d.
Velvet and wool combinations are seen in
new fall frocks.
Hish turn-down collars are seen on im
portations of new frocks.
.The narrow, lanceiike figure is the effect of
the present cut of corsages.
Shoulder seams of frocks, basques and
mantles are all made veiy short.
No lady wears dresses, costumes or toilets
at present, but frocks and gowns.
The crowns of fall hats are of cloth, velvet
and satin, with a seam directly in the back.
Black, brown, tan, dark blue and Russian
green are the preferred colors for fall hats. .
Conical crowns, flattened at the sides and
tilted forward are the feature in fall hats. ■
Stripes, vertical and horizontal, hair lines, :
plaids aud checks will all be _ very fashion
able.
New polonaises are made very full in the
back breadths of the skirt, but are not much
looped.
Open filigree buttons in dull metals, bronze,
brass, copper and silver . are used on new full
frocks.
Ladies' housekeeping aprons are made of
fine lawn and so full and long as to com
pletely cover the skirt.
New bonnet shapes are very small capotes,
with high, pointed crowns and .upturned,
high, peaked brims clelt in the middle to form
a V.
The first importations of fall hats have
conical crowns of cloth, satin or velvet, and
rolled brims of curled Astrachan or boucle
woolen.
Turbans and Toque**
A great many of the milliners who make
only for the home market- are confining them
selves almost entirely to the toque shape for
autumn, though the summer sun hat has a
wide, overshadinjr brim. -
The straw turbans and toques are mostly
trimmed with wide ribbons, deep red, bright
blue ami a single wing or fancy mount at the
side. . ;
Some toques have foulard kerchiefs tied
over the crown and a knot of some other
color in front.
Toques of a more dressy description are
composed of puffings of plain or spotted tulle
or of crepe, white velvet brim, the latter very
low, not more than a narrow border.
The toques made in view of the winter are
mostly, velvet, fitted somewhat in a shell
form, so as to be plain at the sides, and , with
folds forming deep indents at the top,
running from front to back. They fit well
and securely at the head.the brim being largo
enough to accommodate the coiffure comfort
ably.
Furore will probably attach to a hat with
tall, tapering crown, the projecting English
brim curled closely to the sides, because of the
neatness and the numbers of the shape seen
in new collections, and turbans hare come out
in both tall, slightly tapering.stiff crowns and
tall, soft, Indented crowns.
Now Is the Time '-
To see McLain's stock of underwear and
hosiery, complete in every department, at
384 Wabasha street •"
SACKETT & WIGGINS'
MAMMOTH
MUSEUM, TWO THEATERS AND MENAGERIE,
94 to 96 East Seventh Street.
FOR THE WEEK COMMENCING SEPT. 13.
The greatest engagement of the Season,
HOWS GIGANTIC MINSTBBLS
THE BIG GUNS OF MINSTRELSY,
In a programme of laughter ami song, introducing all thellatest and moat
popular witticisms, puns and songs.
An Entertainment of Exceptional Merit.
Not a Chestnut in the Whole Performance.
A Corps of Talented End Men,
PA World-Renowned Quartette.
Six Most Famous Comedians,
The Greatest Burlesque Prima Donna.
Quality, Not Quantity, is Offered.
20 GREAT ARTISTS 20
Rare old Plantation Pictures, Ante-bellum life depicted
The modern coon burlesqued- Happy hits by topical songs
BEHOLD THE ROSTER.
uObBBBsL FeasleyS Docfcstaier, fi^HHffii
fie Stan ted Quartette J9EfilHp^
k Peasley* Docfcstaier, |7^V llfill
M Tlis Staaclard Quartette ||i gp*
f The Burlesque King
DAN FENTON, fM|
And others. V jP «?^
FIRST PART
-^^^-^e^" Brilliant Finale. **"*
ON THE UPPER STAGE.
A performance of exceptional merit by Delevan & West's Vaudeville Coterie.
12 Artists IN HAPPY HITS Artists 12
SEEBAUH'S CURIOS, ROGERS' SHADOWGRAPHS.
OALLAHAN-EOHO VOICED MAN, BESBIK B^ACH, ,
McGLONE, CAPT. BEACH, Submarine Diver,
AND OTHER INTERESTING MARVELS.
Open From 1 to 10 p. m.
10 CENTS ADMITS TO ALL 10 CENTS
CONTRACT WORK.
Grading Approach to Robert Street
Bridge. i
Office of the Board of Public Works, ) .
City of St. Paul, Minn., Sept. 2, 1886. ) \
Sealed bids will be received by the Board o '
Public Works in for the corporation of the
City of St. Paul, Minnesota, at their office in
said city, until 13 p. m., on the 13th day of
September, A. D. 1886. for the grading of the
north approach to the Robert street bridge,
from Third street to the north abutment, to
gether with the approach to alley in block 31,
St. Paul Proper, in said city, according- to
plans and specifications on file in the office of
said Board.
A bond with at least two (2) sureties in a
sum of at least twenty (20) per cent, of the
gross amount bid must accompany each bid.
The said Board reserves the right to reject
any or all bids. ,
WILLIAM BARRETT, President. :
Official:
R.L. Gorman, Clerk Board of Public Works. •
246-56 !
CONTRACT work, i
Grading Frauds Street*
Office of the Board of Public Works ?
City of St. Paul, Minx., Sept. 2, 1886. s
Sealed bids will be received by the Board of
Public Works in and for the corporation of
the City of St. Paul, Minnesota, at their office
in said city, until 12 m. on the loth day of
September, A. D. ISS6, for the grading of
Francis street, from Arcade street to English
street, in said city, according to plans and
specifications on file in the office of said
Board.
A bond with at least two (2) sureties in a
sum of at least twenty (20) per cent, of the
gross amount bid, must accompany each bid.
The said Board reserves the right to reject
any or all bids.
WILLIAM BARRETT, President.
Official:
R. L. Gorman, Clerk Board of Public Works. i
2i6-56 j
CONTRACT WORK, i
Sewer on Jackson Street.
Office of the Board of Public Works, } j
City of St. Paul, Minn., Sept. 2, 1886. •■. 4 |
Sealed bids will be received by the Board of ( -
Public Works in and for the corporation of I
the city of St. Paul, Minnesota, at their office
In said city, until 12 m. on the 13th day of
September, A. D. 1886, for the construction
of a sewer on Jackson street, from Tenth
(10th) street to Pearl street, in said city, to
• i. Hi- with the necessary eatchbftsina and
manholes, he-cording- to plans and specifica
tions on file in the Office of said Hoard.
A bond with at least two (2) sureties in a
sum of at least twenty (20) per cent, of the
gross amount bid must accompany each bid.
The said Board reserves the right to reject
any or ail bids.
WILLIAM BARRETT, President, j
Official:
R. L.GoriMAN.Clerk Board of Public Works.
246-56
Proposals for Building Material.
United states Indian Service, }
Crow Creek and loweußuuls agency, D.T., >
Sept. 4. 18S6. )
Pealed proposals, indorsed "Proposals for Build
ing Material,,' and addressed to the undersigned,
►will be received at the Crow Creek and Lower
Brule Agency, D. T.. until 7 o'clock of 30th Sep
temb?r, 19SG, - fur furnishing building material to
be delivered at the Lower Brule Agency, as fel
lows: 1,150' pieces 2x6, 18 foot joists; 2,300 pieces
2xß, 12 foot rafters: 1 310 pieces •-'xG, 18 plates;
1,300 pieces 2x4, 12 foot gable ends; 1.150 pieces
2x4, 14 foot ceiling, joists; 100 pieces 2x3, It! foot
window and door Bills; 60,000 foot 7-8 common:
boards, 16 feet long: 33,750 feet of 7-Bx6 matched :
[ flooring, 2d clear, 16 feet: 12,000 feet %x 6 siding,
first clear, 16 feet; 7,200 lbs. building paper, good
Duality; 2,500 feet O. G. door and window stops, 16
eet; 4,000 C. stock boards 7-Sx 12, 16 feet; 340,000
shingles XX or choice A in quality; 2,000 feet B.
stock boards 7-Bxl2, 16 feet long; 3,000 feet 3-Bx6
matched end beaded ceiling, 16 feet long: 8,700 lbs.
lOd nails; 2.530 lbs. 8d nails; 1,000 lbs. 6d nails;
1,750 lbs. 4d shingle nails; 1,000 lbs. 20d spikes;
1,200 lbs. best white lead on oil; 78 gallons linseed
oil; 35 gallons turpentine.
The right is reserved by the Government to re
ject airy and all bids or any part of . any bid, if
deemed for the best interests of the service.
• : CERTIFIED CHECKS.
• Each bid must -be accompanied by a certified
check !or draft upon some United States | Deposit
ory, payable to the order of the undersigned, for
at least five per cent of the amount of the pro
posal. . Further information may be obtained upon,
application to ■. : W. W. ANDERSON, , :
; 250-70 * : U. 8. Indian Agent, Crow Creek, D. T. -
I CITY NOTICE.
Office of the City Treasurer, I
j St. Paul, Mian., Sept. 3, 18S8. j
All persons interested in the assessments
for
Condemning: and taking:; an Easement
for slopes on the land adjoining and
: on the line of Sherburne ayenuei
from Rice street to Grant street;
Change of grade on Fourth street, irom
Maple street to High street;
Opening 1 , widening: and extending 1
Hester street, from Burns avenue to
Conway street (ii extended east);
Change of grade on Maekubin street
from Rondo street to Fuller street;
Opening, widening and extension ol
Arundel street, from Minnehaha
street to Como avenue:
Change ot grade on Martin street,
. from' Kent street to Arundel street;
Opening Wells street, from Forest
street to Greenwood avenue,
WILL TAKE NOTICE
That on the 27th day of August, 1536, I dlt,
receive different warrants from the City Comp
troller of the City of St. Paul for the eolleo
tion of the above-named assessments.
The nature of these warrants is, that if you
fail to pay the assessment within
THIRTY DAYS
after the first publication of this notice, I
shall report you and your real estate so a*
Eessed as delinquent, and apply to the Dis
trict Court of the County of Ramsey, Minne
sota, for judgment against your lands, lots,
blocks or parcels thereof so assessed, in
cluding interest, costs and expenses, and foi
an order of the Court to sell the same lor the
payment thereof.
GEORGE REIS. City Treasurer.
247-57
I
CONTRACT WORK,
Grading East Sixth Street
Office of thk Board of Public Works, >
''] City of St. Paul, Minn., Sept. 6, 1886. $
1 Sealed bids will be received by the Board o(
.Public Works in and for the corporation of
the City of St. Paul, Minnesota, at their office
in said city, until 12 m. on the 17tb day of
September, A. D. 1886, for the gradintr of East
Sixth street to a partial grade, between Maria
Avenue and Hoffman Avenue in said city,"
according' to plans and specifications on file
in the office of said Board.
A bond in with at least two (2) sureties in
a sum of at least twenty (~0) per cent, of the
gross amount bid must accompany each bid.
The said Board reserves the right to reject
any or all bids.
WILLIAM BARRETT, President.
Official:
R. L. Gorman, Clerk Board of Public Work*,
250-60
i
CONTRACT WORK.
i
Grading JacSson Street.
Office of thk Board of Public Works, 1
City of St. Paul,, Minn., Sept. 2, 1888. l
Sealed bids will be received by the Board of
Public Works in and for the corporation of
the City of St. Paul, Minnesota, at their office
: in said city, until 12 m. on the 13th day of
September, A. D. 1886, for the grading of
Jackson street, from Arch street to Pennsyl
vania Avenue, together with the necessary
approaches to the bridge now being con
structed over the tracks of the St. Paul, Min
neapolis & Manitoba Railway company in
said city, according to plans and specifications
on file in the office of said Board.
A bond with at least two (2) sureties in a
Bum of. at least twenty (20) per cent, of the
gross amount bid must accompany each bid.
The said Board reserves the right to reject
any or all bids. .. .
WILLIAM BARRETT, President,
Official: , >
E. L. Gorman, Clerk Board of Public Works.
*;; :.■ ■ ■■'-- '.. 246-56 ■;.'.-:. :.;'; -
