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is SOME AUTUMN IDEAS. Tab English Tailor Costume Unique in Its Striking Design. tlegant Calling Gown of Rich Black Velvet, Fitting Closely. fee Redfern Walking Gown of Fancy French Cloth. Points on All the Fall Fash ions—Hints fop House keepers. Special to the Globe. New York, Sept. 4.— From its earli est conception the English tailor cos tume, as created by Redfern, has been something absolutely unique in its striking design, its perfection of fit and thorough attention to all details. And jnore than ever is this the case in this jfaUoflß9o, for the new models just Issued have received an extra amount of consideration at the hands of artists and designers, and in consequence are distinguished by some features which ■will make them a thing apart from the ■work of the ordinary dressmaker and from the 'imported' stock to be found in all the show parlors of the regular shops. A glance at the accompanying sketches will explain better than mere Vrords can do some of the characteris tics of the Redfern productions. In the £rst illustration we have An Elegant Calling Costume fcf rich black velvet, fitting closely over ihe front and sides, and hanging in long, itraight folds— as such a handsome fab ric should, to be effective. The lower lalf of the skirt is covered, except at he back, with an appliqued border fully ive-eighths of a yard wide, of white sorded silk, upon which is a close and Elaborate design in oxydized silver braid. The bodice opens in a narrow, kleep V, over a collar and folded vest of White china crepe; and each side of this opening is a wide, braided band of the fcilk which passes around the neck, and down the front under a braided girdle, end then hangs in scarf ends almost to the knee. Deep cuffs of the white crepe are upon the close velvet sleeves, and are buttoned on the inner seam with ft row of small silver buttons. The sec ond sketch is A Redfern Walking Gown, Of fancy French cloth, dark green with figures of wood-brown. Across the front and sides the skirt is cut in small square turrets, and those are bordered by narrow bands of mink, whjch makes a charming contrast Bgainst dark green. Similar turrets edge tlje basque which has also, length wise bands of ribbon velvet down the front and upon the shoulder puffs. A brown feather boa finishes this cos tume during the early fall, but is re placed alter by a mink cape. THE BELLE] OF SARATOGA. How the Sister of Victoria Moro sini Looks. From a Saratoga Letter. II E belle of Saratoga this year of 1890 is Miss Julia Morislni. She rides down Broadway in a tailor made habit of light gray, a silk hat sit ting squarely on the coil of her dark brown hair. 'Pliprn U nothing spirituelle about Miss Moro- sini. She is well put up, and there is plenty of avoirdupois. She sits her plump chestnut mare with great dignity and looks straight ahead between the mare's ears. At exactly the proper distance the groom, in a buff coat, corduroy knee breeches and top boots follows, upon n stout bay gelding. He has a cockade on his hat and he carries a rid ing whip braced against his side at just the correct angle. When Miss Moro sini trots the groom trots, and when Miss Morosini canters the groom can ters. The chestnut mare and the bay gelding are usually allowed to walk down Broadway, between the ho tels, at a dress parade gait. When she turns into a side street Miss Moroaina touches the mare and away the procession goes. Guests on the piazzas have noted that the groom is young and handsome, with a fine Hibernian tint on his smooth cheeks. Miss Morosini's elder sister is said to be traveling in Europe. Schilling, the ex coachman, when lust heard from, was conductor on a New York street car. The fresh-faced groom is in no danger. Miss Jnlia will never wound the family pride as Victoria did. Miss Julia is her father's own girl. At Mr. Morosini is usually referred to as "Jay Gould's partner " He has one of the finest cottages at the States, and he lives like a priuce. ICES AXD CREAMS. Good Things to Eat and How Women Can Make Them. TALIAN sher bet ice cream— Put the yolks of six eggs,, with a desert spoonful o f orange flower water, or crisped orange flowers in pow der, into two quarts of cream,and boil it up once in a covered sauce pau; then pass It through a sieve, add to it ' three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, aud as soon as it is perfectly dis solved pour the whole into an ice-pot, which place in a freezer. Tea ice cream — Pour over four table spoonfuls of old Hyson tea a pint of cream, scald in a custard kettle, or by plactiug the aish containing it in a kettle of boiling water: remove from the tire and let it stand five minutes, strain it into a pint of cold cream, put it on to scald again, and when hot, mix with four eggs and three-quarters of a pound of sugar well-beaten together, aud let it cool and freeze. Chocolate ice cream — Dissolve the chocolate six ounces in a little water on a slow fire: when properly done, mix it with a pint of cream, three yolks of new laid egf?s and about half pound of sugar. Alille Fruits Ice Cream— Halt a gallon of new milk, five eggs and four teacups ful of white sugar; strain and pour into the freezer; as soon as it begins to freeze add one pound of raisins, one pint preserved strawberries or cherries, one pound chopped almonds, one grated cocoanut, one pound of currants, and freeze . Rock Ice Cream— To each quart of milk use five eges and one-half pound of sugar; beat the eggs and sugar to gether (whites and yolks separately); after boiling the milk, pour it over the sugar and eggs, beating all at the same time, then put it on the fire again, and as soon as it thickens take off and strain into the freezer to cool ; when cold add one pint of cream, flavored with extract or essence of vanilla, rose, cinnamon, etc In places where cream is not abundant this recipe (though inferior in richness) will be found more economical than the pre ceding ones. It is, however, less easy and expeditious. Barberry Ice Cream.— Put a large spoonful of barberry jam into a pint of cream, add the juice of a lemon and a little cochineal, then put it into the ice pot to freeze. Economical Ice Cream.— A pint and a haif of rich cream, a quart and a half of new milk, one pound loaf sugar, two eggs, one tablespoonful of corn flour or arrowroot, two lemons or half a vanilla bean SDlit into small pieces. Take half of the milk and put it in the ingredient that is to flavor it, either the vanilla or the grated rinds of the lemons. Boil it, stirring gradually in the sugar. Hav ing beaten the eggs well, add to them two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and pour them into the boiling milk. Let them simmer two or three minutes, stirring them all the time. Then take the mixture off the fire and strain it through book muslin into a pan. Add the cream and the re mainder of the milk, and put the whole into the tin freezer or ice pot, which must be set in a tub filled with ice, among which must be scattered a great deal of salt. Squeeze the juice of the two lemons and stir it into the cream by degrees while it is freezing. If straw berry or raspberry flavoring is pre ferred, that, like the lemon juice, must be stirred gradually in while the cream is freezing. BREAKFASTS FOR A WEEK. Monday. Iced Cantaloupes. ORtmeal. Sugar and Cream. Lamb Chops. Hashed Potatoes. Graham Gems. Coffee. Tuesday. Blackberries aud Cream. Wheat Granules. Sugar and Cream. Ham Croquettes. Baked Potatoes. Sliced Tomatoes. Rolls. Coffee. Wednesday. Baked Apples. Oatmeal. Whipped Cream. Beefsteak. Saratoga Chips. Toast. Plain Lettuce. Coffee. Thursday. Assorted Fruit. Moulded Rice. Sugar and Cream. Fried Egg Plant. Fried Tomato. Rolls. Coffee. Friday. Fruit. Moulded Farina Sugar and Cream. Broiled Mackerel. Fried Potatoes. Toast. Sliced Cucumbers. Coffee. Saturday. Sliced Tomatoes. Moulded Farina. Sugar and Cream. Calf's Liver. Brown Sauce. French Fried Potatoes. Corn Griddle Cakes. Coffee. Sunday. Compote of Peaches. Wheat Granules. Sugar and Cream. Hamburg Steaks. Poached Eggs. Toast. Radtehea. Coffee. GOOD OL.D POSTURING. "Position is everything," murmured Rose Fitzsnuffer. "If 1 can only keep it up until Lord Snodhopper comes into the room I am sure I shall Lriu^ him to my feet." frHE EAINT TAVL DAILY GLOBE SUNDAY MOENESTG. SEPTEMBER 7, 1890. —SIXTEEN VAGftS. SKIRTS IN SEPTEMBER. How They Are Tacked, Frilled or Em broidered. MORE MEDICI COLLARS. Feather Boas Bring on Another Feather Craze— The Fashions in Paris. Paris Letter. _ gP^* HE gay world still disports itself at the watering places, but with the first cold winds of September they will hie them selves to cosy country homes or return to their beloved Paris. The milliners and dressmakers are bestirring themselves' i n season, in order to provide their patrons with startling nouveautes. Women are showing a marked predi lection for smothering themselves in the high Valois and Medici collars, which at this season of the year are of diaphanous lace wire to preserve the shape, or of pleated gauze or chiffon. In the later autumn days they will be made of velvet or of soft-piled plush in dark, rich colors. . Homely QueeH Elizabeth would be astonished could she . be resuscitated ' and behold her counterparts in the fash ionable dames of to-day. Ruffs are _ the novelty of the moment; they are of thickle-pleated net edged with narrow picot ribbon and strewn with chenille dots of chiffOn-tigured gauze or crepe lisse, of pinked surah, or in fact of al most anythi ng that fancy dictates. The silk ones are so thickly niched that they look very much like feathers, and are almost as expensive. The loveliest and costliest ones, however, are of cock feathers, curled ostrich tips, or of the breast plumage of Chinese pheasants. Those of ostrich feathers are infinitely becoming both in black, the natural gray tints and the lighter colors destined lor evening wear; they are tied at the back of the neck with long, narrow streamers of ribbon, which are caught up by every fragrant breeze," so that, added to the floating hat ribbons, a woman reminds one of a steam launch gay with holiday bunting. Feather boas are also worn, but are eminently unfitted for the seaside, as the damp atmosphere removes the curl and renders them bedraggled pieces of finery. These boas are expensive adorn ments, as fifty and sixty dollars is the price demanded for the perishable articles. No woman with a short neck should wear anything approaching a ruff, as they are solely intended for the swan-necked beauties with sloping shoulders and long English faces. The feather craze introduces the small toque to fashionable life. " It is com posed entirely of short, curled ; tips, close-fitting and with no extraneous or nament save perhaps a heron aigrette. The dressy ones for evening wear are guiltless of crowns, the softly curled hair appearing beneath. Then there are both toques and bonnets of the pheasant or of the more homely cock and partridge feathers. In fact feathers bid fair to be the feature of fall and winter hats. The slaughter of the in nocents still continues, and birds V of . startling plumage flutter . their gay wines on big hats and infinitesimal ca potes alike. ' No naturalist ever heard of a plumaged songster with wings of the most approved Parisian shade of heliotrope or with old rose breasts and baby blue tails. To render them still more extraordinary, these, same, tails and wings are jetted, set with mock jewels in a manner that would astonish ,a : meek-eyed thrush or demure black i bird or nest-loving robin. ~ ; Then the collection of butterflies would make an entomologist stare with envy of the new and strange freaks of insect life until he discovered that the novel specimens were evolved from the fertile brain of a Parisan manufacturer on the gui vive for something new and strange. » -v The coming woman is surely to be polka-dotted, pea-spotted, Tartan plaided in all sorts of bizarre combina tions. The cloths of the autumn re semble the shaggy coat of a Shetland pony, the rough back of the patient camel or the striped hide of the African zebra. Roughness of effect is aimed at, and many of the plaids resemble horse blankets and sleigh robes. The plaids are some of them at least a foot square and of all the colors of the rainbow, but so mingled and merged one into the other as to present a harmonious whole. The coming color is melon, a viva cious yellow akin to dead-ripe cante loupes, and simply atrocious on any but an olive-skinned brunette. With the falling of the green leaves that color will also disappear in a measure. The Parisian color syndicate have some- ' what tabooed .the varied shades of green, which have become vulgarized by too common use. The mauve and more delicate marguerite shades will again be fashionable, combined with the rich dark prunes, amaranths and dahlia tints. It is predicted : that blue will hold its own,, the deep marine shades, the soft royal blues and the paler old geld ana gobelins. Fawn gray and beige and colombe are among the favorite colors for street and traveling costumes. Lyons silks of rich regeuce cord are the newest things for costumes of high ceremony, and are both brocaded and plain. Some of the new skirts are fastened to bodices either of the material or of velvet or silk slashed in several places and laced ; across with silk cord passing over fancy ; buttons. This gives a pleasing finish to skirts for independent wear with the Stanley jackets, beneath which appear the omnipresent skirt of silk or linen. The bodice does away with the neglige appearance of the blouse waist, making it a more trim and elegant garment than it is in its present shape. * * Moyenage . costumes of stiff tinsel threaded brocades are taking the pre cedence for dinner and ball toilets; but little trimming is used in conjunction with them, and that little of leather, studded with agates, of gold and • silver passementerie in quaint designs, set with imitation jewels. The skirts are invariably, trained, the rich lengths sweeping the floor above a balayeuse of closely-crimped lace or net. ■.-.'. Russet, copper-colored and dead-leaf clothes are chosen for dresses for cool days, and with them are worn the small turban of folded or draped cloth, trim med with a bright-plumaged bird or the stiff er : English , bone turbans of dark straw, with velvet brim and a standing aigrette or a knot of velvet. " . Knock-about hats of stitched cheviots with a wide band of ribbon and & paint ed quill stuck in one side are much af fected by English .■ and . American tour ists. ■ Etelka, DECORATIVE DESIGNING. ' It Is an Employment That Offers a Certain Remuneration. MONG the many employments open to women there is none which offers 'more certain re muneration than de c o rative de signing. For some reason, however.schools in decorative de sign have not sprung up in any number, and those estab lished have not been remarka bly successful. In this work women learn very soon J that if they compete with men they j must do as eood work as men . do. - .The .designs which they sell can have no fie-' titious value attached to them. , ■ ■?,?; ; . The ; manufacturer of ' wall paper do not care where his designs come from,' so long as they are a success. Individ \ ual women who have taken ~ up : decora tive designing are receiving incomes ■ varying from $1,200 to $2,000 a year as heads of industrial training schools. A good i designer .in . wall ; paper can de i mand a reach higher ••• salary than then average teacher In the common schools. 1 The complaint has too . frequently been : made with justice * that we • are not an ' j artistic people.' There is no doubt that among us the very best designs are not. ■the most popular. /.. ■ ■■■■ '/__ .People of taste are {in the • minority, and must go to r English manufacturers for good designs in carpets and wall papers. For this i reason the designer' certainly lies . under double '- difficulties in this country.- He must originate de signs that are salable to the : masses, as well as ■: those : for " people of refined ' tastes.' This may be a reason why so many have been discouraged from un dertaking the work. A successful decorative design in carpet or wall paper may command $25, ) and any design . accepted will bring from 55 : upward. . Many people- who aim to be designers fail to realize * that -it is • necessary to go through a thorough technical training in order to be successful. v - - - : NOTES FOR THE" LADIES. They Are Short, but Each One Is of Great Interest, r New York World. . Use all the scented soap you like at the bath, but spare your face. Get a Blarney tweed if you want a fall dress that you can wear till spring time. Not only plaids and checks, but plain clothes, are cut on the bias for street costumes. -' You can get an . umbrella or parasol now with the stick and handle bound in kangaroo, Alligator or carved leather. If you succeed in carrying on a con versation without once using a question, you will be worthy of admission to the anti-interrogative set. Miniature pins are the rage, and old curio shops are being ransacked for an tiques painted on porcelain, with pow der and patches portrayed. There is no daintier house gown for a girl than a nainsook empire belted high up with a three-yard sash of rose, green or brown china crepe. There are fifty different kinds of ice cream in the market, thirty-five styles in dos collars," nineteen novelty wed dins rings, six baby bibs and five shades of canary-colored hair dye: You can pay 825 for a yard of black : armure silk if you don't know what else to do with your money. This magnifi cent fabric is flowered with branches of La France roses as artistically wrought ; as those of a flower painting. Traveling flasks for salts, stimulants and medicines are made after the antique lanterns, mock gems ornament ing the blackened -silver. The glass brandy bottle is fitted into a silver cup, the upper half being colored with bull's eye effects. There are two characteristics of the aristocratic toilet. Easy fitting gloves and long shoes with sensible heels. Only the raw element of society squeezes her hands in pattened-fastened gloves and pinches her feet in narrow soles to steeple heels. The low, flaring collar is not a com plete success. Worn by a thick-necked or fleshy women, it gives her a hard look and makes her face hard. Like the cap and tarpauline hat, the round, low collar is an institution for youth, grace* and beauty. In brief it is girly, and not designed for maturity or bulk. . ; Watches are not worn any more. Fashion and philosophy agree that time ', was made for slaves and "railroad peo ple. Another ornament that has van ished from popularity is the earring. Only the possessors of solitaires worth losing are worn any more, and then only the women who can . afford detec tive service. " The nosegay brocade in small design on a black, pink or blue giound, is used j for entire dresses. They are very lovely 'and have" the v charm of -rarity. The black are worn on the street, and the high tints indoors. Some of these boutonnieres are painted, some are printed, and others embroidered in hand relief. vr;- .^ X -"' « - r — Helping Her Out. He kissed her. "Well I never," she exclaimed. <- Of course. I should be angry with you, Mr. Fresh, and it's too pleasant to get altogether mad about,' so—" "I don't like to upset a lady's feel ings," he interrupted, apologetically, "so I'll do it again to help you make lip your mind." ONE BJVJOY® Both the method and results when Syrup of Figs is taken; it is pleasant and refreshing to the taste, and acts gently yet promptly on the Kidneys, Liver and Bowels, cleanses the sys tem effectually, dispels colds, head aches and fevers, and enres habitual constipation. Syrup of Figs is the enly remedy of its kind ever pro duced, pleasing to the taste and ac ceptable to the stomach, prompt in : Its action and truly beneficial in its effects; prepared only from the most healthy and agreeable substances, its many excellent qualities ■ com mend it to all and have made it the most popular remedy known, Syrup of Figs is for : sale in 500 and $1 bottles by all leading drag gists. Any reliable druggist who may not have it on hand will pro cure it promptly for any one who : wishes to try it. Do not accept any substitute. CALIFORNIA FIG SYRUP CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL J LOUISVILLE. KY. NEW YORK. M.Y. A GREAT COMFORT. Mad'm. Strong's v y^^ HEALTH Has self-sustaining "Trlcora" busts Is Unequalled for perfectiou of shape, and Comfort, Wear and Finish. Is Boned witli Waterproof • 4 Tricora" Stays that are pliable, vnpportiug ajid absolutely ui.br eatable. ; DUROCHER & WESSEL. ; FINCH, VAN a LY4j X & GO. !> SPECIAL OFFERINGS I ;§§ :. ii|3;o!Ri:NGl|||l|i^ii FAIR WEEK. :? Turcoman Portieres at $4.50 Per Pair. \\;~c These are fringed top and bottom, are in solid colors, and worth $6.00 per pair. Lace Curtains, from 50c Per Pair Upward. We have 2,000 pairs which have just been im ported, which we will sell at a very small ad vance. Furniture Coverings at 50c, 75c, $1 Per Yard. ..We show this season the most remarkable effects in low-price fabrics. Table Covers at $3 Each. Two lots of 5-4 Fringed Chenille Covers in choice colorings. CARPET DEPARTMENT. We have selected a line of Tapestries, Ingrains and Body Brussels, on which .we have placed the following low prices: . Tapestries at 50 cents per yard. j Ingrains at 60 cents per yard. Body Brussels at $1.00 per yard. ' These prices include making, laying and lining. Art Squares in desirable patterns and colorings at lower prices than have ever been quoted in ' this- city. SMYRNA RUGS. Our assortment is more complete than ever in .. all sizes, and all prices have been revised for this week. — — — OF $10,000 WORTH OF REYMOLDS BROS.' HNESHQES To Be Sold at Unheard-of Lew Prices. I will place on sale at my Auction and Commission Rooms, 254 and 256 East Seventh, Monday morning, Sept. Bth, and continuing until all are sold, $10,000 worth of the well known Reynolds Bros.' Fine Shoes for Ladies only. Every pair warranted to be Reynolds Bros.' own make, and are without doubt one of the best lines of ladies' shoes made in America. I have contracted to sell the lot of goods in 30 days, and the only way I can accomplish this is by spiling them at private sale at the remarkably low prices as follows : Reynolds Bros.' $6 French Kid I will sell at this sale for $3.50. v- Reynolds Bros.' $5 French Kid I will sell at this sale for $3. %- Reynolds Bros.' $4.50 French Don^ola I will sell at this sale for $2.75. -. Reynolds Bros.' $4 French Dongola I will sell at this sale for $2.50. Reynolds Bros.' $4 American French Kid I will sell at this sale for $2.50. \ Reynolds Bros.' $3.50 Best Pebble Goat I will sell at this sale for $2.25. i_: . Reynolds Bros.' $3 Best Pebble Goat I will sell at this sale for $2. . r : The goods and prices I guarantee to be as represented. All sizes and widths from AA to EE. This will be the greatest I slaughter sale of ladies' fine shoes that has ever taken place in j St. Paul, and likely will never occur again, so don't fail to i take advantage and buy now while the sizes are complete. Mail orders promptly attended to and satisfaction guar anteed. _ Remember, I will open this sale Monday morning, Sept. 8, at 254 and 256 East Seventh Street. ': Auction and Commission. ■■-'" v >^t . H t&Fi Bo IsHv En 659 fff f£^t w&t ■chiffonier™ FOLDING BED! — -INCLUDING--— Fine Springs and Soft Mattresses. See if it °/ 0 you. See it anyway ! It will interest you. We have a number of Folding Beds on hand which we pro pose to let go off. —THE — r Furniture Co., 264-286 East Seventh St. OT7R— We have arranged with the pub fishers of the ST. I PAUL GLOBE to give a ticket entitling the hold er to two consecutive in sertions of a 25 -Word advertisement in the want columns of the Daily and Sunday Globe with every purchase of $2 or over. The Shoe Man, 384 and 386 Wabasha Street. • ' ■• ■ I FOR UN ONLY! A DfKITIVE £ o* lost or Sailing MANHOOD; A r UOI lift General and Kervo.-a Debility; ViTTTJ X* "WeakasMof Body &Hijid:a£eotsi \J %J JtXiJLd of Error or Excesses in Old-Toung. Kohail. Soble Hanhonri futlv lU.,.irr-i. How to Fnl»rve and Strengthen Wnk, UndcTdapod Or^aM am) Parts of Kodj. I Abcslutehr uofallins iUme Trntwnl-BwDU la a <1«t. ■jMTeitlr/from 1~. I TfTrltori»»AForfltnir<rantrl»a. roaecn-Triletho -. Kook.Knl!rx,.linnlloii* prooranaHe4 •.ca!ii;!r«e. Address ERIE MEOICAL CO..3Df FALO.N.I. M T. L BLOOD & CO.'S -- ; RBADY-MIXfiD MnOUSE, BAKN, FLOOR & CARRIAGE ■ ■Are the Best. SaUsfactiou Guaranteed!) B ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA. B