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and Return only
Includes all meals en route.
Double berth both ways.
"Sea Girt Fairy Isle"
and Return only
Tuesday and Friday. Good
Leave St. Paul at 6:45 P- M.
Leave Minneapolis at
7:20 P. H.
Arrive Mackinac next
Daily S. S. Express connects
at Soo with every Lake
Steamer for Points East.
ST. PAUL OFFICE:
No. 398 Robert Street (Ryan Hotel).
No. 127 S. Third St. (Guaranty Bldg.)
THE SAINT PAUL GLOBE: SUNDAY, AUGUST 2, 1896.
STYLES OF AUTUJWN
ItISSET, Rl STY AXD DUSTY
SHADES AHK POPVLAK I.\
AN ENGLISH WALKING HAT.
POINTS FOR THOSE! WHO MAY NOT
WEAR SI'RIX<i HATS UNTIL
NEW GOWNS AND FABRICS.
Striped and Tufted Canvas
Make Very Pretty Dresnes for
Special Correspondence of the Globe.
NEW YORK, July 30.— 1t is by no
means too late for new summer hats,
though they show, in a subdued color
ing, the wane of the glory of the first
June days. These have straws of rus
set shades and rusty and dusty looking
braids. The flowers, too, are generally
those that bloom at this season. There
are pond lilies, hollyhocks, nasturtiums
and hedge roses. Verbenas in all their
rich coloring we see now — sometimes
five or six colors all grouped together —
and on one hat I saw just bunches of
the beautiful velvety French marigold
without its unpleasant smell. Phlox,
too, is among the flowers, mingled with
spikes of mignonette. On one hat of
dull russet green chip I saw pond lilies
in front — three of them and a bud —
and at one side there was a bunch of
pink roses — small ones — mignonette and
fine smilax vine. There were loops of
bottle green taffeta ribbon forming a
background for these flowers. Another
flat brimmed hat with a cleft crown
had a very full wreath of pink hedge
roses without foliage and a twist of
pale pink silk mull around the corwn,
ending in an upright bow. The straw
was wood brown and moss green. Some
of the rough straw hats are trimmed
with pffings of silk mull or maline,
though the latter is slightly passee
now. I noticed one straw hat where
the brim was quite flat and round. The
crown was cut away, and a soft mob
cap crown was put In its place, with
a ruffle of the same lying on the brim.
There was a couple of smallish bows
of the white silk mull. A roll of moss
green velvet was drawn around the
crown, and a few loops were put upon
the back, in with three white empire
plumes. This was very pretty and
most becoming to the young wearer.
For a little girl I saw such a dainty
little bonnet. The back part and crown
were of ivory batiste. There was a
quilling of the same close around the
face, and just behind that there was
an upright plaiting of nainsook em
broidery. There was a short cape of
the same, with a pink bow in the back.
A pink bow tied it.
Some very beautiful new hats for
very grand occasions are made of rich.:
and heavy lace laid over some soft,
neutral color to enhance its effect. One
superb garden party hat was of heavy
maltese lace over yellow silk, with
maize velvet to give it the needful
A SEASHORE COSTUME.
touch of color. There was a moss
green velvet with a row of point de
venise all around the brim and a double
fan bow of the same lace held by a dia
mond and emerald buckle. The Eng
lish walking hat continues to suit many
persons, one hat being so odd that I
will describe It. It was of brown straw,
with a band of tan-colored velvet bind
ing the edge all around. Directly in
front there was a flat windmill bow of
the same. At the back there were an
empire tuft of black plumes and a bow
with a long end of velvet, and this end
curled around the brim of the left side.
Ordinarily the walking hat is very se
Gowns are of everything, and each
new one is the prettiest until another
Is made. A shepherds plaid in light
browns and creams was very neat.
The skirt was slashed at the sides over
a plaited tan silk fan. The waist was
an opened blouse, with a tan silk plait
ed vest and guimpe. The sleeves were
Striped and tufted canvas made an
other very pretty dress for summer
wear. The skirt was entirely plain.
The waist was slashed over an under
corsage of white lace over ntle green
taffeta. The material was gray, with
dark green and white tufted lines
There were wide caps to the sleeves,
and these were of white lace over the
nile green and had a border of nar
row dark green ribbon. A narrow gilt
belt finished the costume. Many
dresses are made rather low at the
throat, particularly for the young
ladies of, say. sixteen to twenty. These
waists look cool and dressy. One had
a blouse cut square in the neck and
finished with a pointed collar of lace.
The sleeves were puffed to the elbow
and there finished with a deep fall of
lace. A quaint and very pretty dress
was of white elairette. with two nar
row lace ruffles at the bottom headed
by rows of myrtle green velvet studded
with steel facets. In the front there
AFTER^I ' USE
SPIN jj[_ SOAP
Th« must effective sktu punrylng nod bmn<
tifjing soap In the world, as well ■■ pur
est «Dfl sweetest for tlalet, bath, nnd nurs
ery. It is so because It strikes at tbe causa
of bad compiexims. falling balr, and baby
blemisbeg. viz.: Tbe Clogged, Irritated. In
flamed Sluggish, or Overworked Pores of th.«
Skin. - •■
Sold throaghont the world. British depot: B".
Newbery & Sons, 1 X Mtg' • Edward st., Lou
dno. "How to Prevent Facia! Blemjthes."
pout free. Potter Drug e.zi Cbem. Corp.,
Sale Props.. Botstun. 07 3. 'A
were .two , large bovte Q.f wld,er velvet.
The sash belt" had ends of the same.
The. .waist, wsas laid in, the-, surplice
folds. The sleeves were tight, but
there we-re double caps at the "tup trim
med with the velvet ribbon and nar
rower lacef. A wide; flat collar turned
away, leaving the .front open in V
shape, and a narrow frill of lace soft
ened the outline at the throat and made
the whole gown look bright and festive.
There is little new this week In fab
rics except the challies with woven
Persian borders. These, I am told, will
robin's egg blue patera, with a border
will be for flounces or overskirts, as the
wearer may prefer. There was one
robin's egg blue patern, with a boderr
of regular Persian design all along
the selvage, intended to be cut off and
used for trimming. A cream white had
a border of the same design, only that
there was a little more black in it.
There are many new designs in grena
dines. One of the most showy has sil
ver stars woven on the black gTound.
DOMESTIC TYRItA^'X IX ENGLAND.
One Who Is Hired to '.'Coolc to*
Domestic tyranny : is" felt in England
as well as in the United States, and
pugnacious John. Bull takes matters
Into court as the ( Ajnerican does not
An amusing case has'done some
thing to settle the duties of the cook
was heard by an English magistrate
the other day. i»i<
The tyrant of the Mtchen had in this
case ruled the houseJteW of sji excellent
middle-class citizen * for two years.
Then arose a domestic crisis. Her em
ployer owned some pet animals and
birds of which Im* - was particularly
fond, and Phyllis wae required to cook
some vegetables for these creatures. At
this her nose went up Into the air, and.
observing that "she was not engaged
to cook food for fowls and pigs, but for
Christians," she retired from her situa
tion and promptly "summoned" her
employer for one month's salary in lieu
of notice. The master of the house and
the cook both took the witness stand
for the expression of personal opinions
,as to the proper duties of a cook. Tb*
IWE WILL NOT FOLLOW I
UJ The lead of competitors and betray confidences by publishing- the names (jp
W) of and referring* to our cures, but — tft
8 WE PUBLICLY GUARANTEE TO CURE ANY CASE OF THE »
' } DRINK, DRUG OR TOBACCO DISEASES. ! '
: Which we treat without leaving any bad effects, or we will refund all
\ money paid. Our remedies are strictly vegetable and build up, instead of
\ breaking down the system.
For the next ten days special inducements will be given any one need
ing a cure. & #
i] '! We Positively Guarantee. |!
S WE CHALLENGE. ' I 1 REMEMBER.
• ji To eradicate all desire for intoxicating < I 1
> Any and all other CURES to drink, tobacco or drugs from the system. ', ttt~ - I]; , nnf .. i A
], discover and publish a SINGLE ! Our treatment varies and is made to fit ]• a cure. ,
,l case of a BORTON GRADU- . '! the case.aud in treatinK the patient ac- < Tn Imw th. «.«toi -f.,,,,.14.- !
\ ATE whose health, mental or cordin* to the requirements of his j! To lea J e th e mental faculties
|i physical, has been impaired, or disease and constitutioii, iv eliminatiug ij clear and unimpaired.
; (' who has lost any of the bodily ' the CAUSE, restores him to his normal ( ! rrv. ttmilA +t, ''
j, functions through the BORTON ! condition, ana la grading the treatment !' P system, in- ,
) TREATMENT. 'I we avoid all danger to the BRAIN, a <\ stead of breaking- it down, and [<
i i. Will other cures issue a simi- !' result that cannot be avoided in a]i not to destroy or impair any
ji lar challenge? i mechanical cure— where the same treat- l! bodily function. '
l! r- ' ment is accorded each patienti ( i i 1
' ! ;
We solicit investigation. All correspondence strictly confidential.
Fop further information apply to or address
I JN©. WEIGEL, 8
g MANAGER BORTON INSTITUTE, g
g 340 West Third St., St. Paul, Minn. g
0) N. B. -We Make Relapses of Other Cures a Specialty. f)
employer executed a truly masterly
manoeuvre in calling as a witness a
woman who had been cook to the Duke
of Bedford, and in that capacity "had
prepared potatoes and rice for pigs and
poultry, and did not think it beneath
her position to do so." This annihi
lated the case, for if the cook in a ducal
household did not object to boiling
things for fowls, it was plain to see that
the cook in a commoner's family had
no ground for complaint when request
ed to perform a similar duty. The
magistrate gave judgment in favor of
the employer, and Phyllis retired in
dudgeon, but helpless.
THE STICK PIN.
It Grows In Popularity and la the
Fad of the Girl Collector.
More stick-ptns are being used than
ever, and I don't know where the end
of the craze is to be," said a jeweler
lately. "There are all sorts of freak
things in the market and they are mul
tiplying daily, too. Of course, the
wealthy folks don't run much to queer
things — they like stick-pins all right
enough, but they want jewels in them
and variety is expected there; it is in
the cheaper grade of pins that sell
amongst the small buyers that you can
see a new design about once a week,
and sometimes oftener. Down in my
shop I've got a lot of catalogues that
show all sorts of styles; there are trot
ting horses, Trilby feet, shoe buckles,
baby's heads, revolvers, daggers, box
ing gloves, death's heads, dumb-bells,
skates, guns, ships, fishing rods, bicy
cles, nursing bottles, beer glasses and
base balls. I sell a lot of them, but the
big department stores in Boston and
the fakirs of the street dispose of the
most of them; they bring a tremendous
profit, and I have heard of at least
two concerns that are making them
that are growing wealthy out of the
THE WHOLESOME GOOSEBERRY.
A jVesrleetert Fralt Whose Good
Qualities Are Bne Little Known.
A much neglected fruit is the whole
some gooseberry. The la,ge variety
makes an excellent breakfast fruit, and
is regarded as healthy. Gooseberries,
like cranberries, may be preserved in
water and used in the winter for plea
and sauces. Pick over the fruit, reject
the poor ones, and remove the stem and
blow. Put the fruit into jars, filling
them nearly to the top; then pour in
clear, cold water, allowing it to over
flow the jar. Screw the covers down so
the jars will be airtight, and keep t the
jars in a dark, cool place. Gooseberry
sauce is appetizing, and is an excellent
relish to serve with roast meats.
Measure the fruit and have two-thirds
of a bowl of sugar for every bowl of
fruit; put in a porcelain-lined kettle
and pour over the fire and allow them
to cook very slowly until every berry
is soft. This sauce will make delicious
A SIMMER NOVELTY.
pies, using it with an upper and under
crust. In making with a lower crust
only cover the top when baked with a
Novelties in Paper Stump* and Per-
There are a half dozen new quaint
C a°,? °!l tS ln P urel >' summer stationery.
All the simple conventional sizes of
linen and bank note paper, in the
standard tints and monograms, are
still used by conservative women and
for serious occasions, but nearly every
owner of a prettily-appointed escretoire
Sf^fi a d r awer and Pigeon-hole con
stantly refreshed with the whimsical
little modes in cards, sheets and en
tv.? n £° f tl \ e most a "ractive notions is
the big pale blue and very thin sheet
on only one side of which one writes. A
Tnd ,* e "tK 1S PUt on that one side
and then the sheet is folded square
FASHIOXABLE SUMMER FOOTWEAR.
P L^ther. Tan. Blcycle . Canvag f
two of its edges stuck down, and be
hold! an old style letter, without an
envelope, is ready. On the broad blank
side, left by folding, the address and
stamp are placed, and the effect is
very similar to old family letters
hoarded in attic trunks. The faded
blue in thinnest linen paper is sup
posed to be used for foreign cor
respondence only, while a very odd,
thick-ridged sheet, in waves and
blotches of brown and yellow, is called
IS3O paper, since it is cleverly stained
in exact imitation of time's ravages
among epistles sixty years old. The
IS3O paper comes in big doubled square
sheets and very smart persons do not
mucilage down the folded edges, but
liberally splash .on plenty of sealing
wax and stamp with a huge ring
As is so frequently the case, fashion
temporarily adopts two extremes, and
one either writes on very large or very
small sheets, and a tiny, perfectly
square envelope of the new nut-brown
ov Jersey cream cartridge papeT is very
modish, indeed. The cream is such a
deep ivory tint as to be almost yellow,
and the brown is the shade of a dried
English wainut shell. The texture of
the paper is thick and fibrous, looking
like the cartridge paper on one's walls,
«£ fin. * urface ls quite agreeable for
the finest pen. Instead of a coat-of
arms or monogram stamped on the
pages of this paper, it is thVcustom iS
clear, raised, red printed letters to
have the date-July 4. 1896, clekrl?
wntten out, is, for example what tops
the page, and one buys of this sort of
fne ?n e Z>? T 1 ?" 1 ' 8 Suppl y- calculat
ing to write at least one note a day
Only red or black lettering fc used for
this special purpose. With the ttnted
paper ln ordinary colors aad showing
an initial name of country house, or
?hTt 6 nn f 2ti tl l la tamping is doS on
the top of the inside of the first page
The whole note is written on the inside
bS fhV^?' diFeCtly lt lB Wished
before the ink is dry, a sintrle sheet of
Japanese blotting piper is dropped t^f
¥hfs n hi h t e t- tW ° P** 6B Of stlll wet w Or £.
Th ls blotting paper is. of course, Just
the size of the note leaves, and ls really
a piece of tissue paper woven thick
soft and printed with the prettiest lit
tle shadowy-colored Japanese designs.
Some authors of tiny flying notes del-
ieately perfume their blotting leaves
and on opening one's billet a whiff of
sweet odor falls out with the fairy blot
Women who feel that their year* or dig
mty will not permit the cotton shirt waft
find an admirable substitute in. the ow>l silk
waists of taffetas or India that are offered a
the shops. These are made of black or gray
exactly like the shirt waist, with pfalts'
bishop sleeves and cuffs, fastened with gold
or silver studs and, worn with a linen collar
f-» T c ° ol - 1 «» k lnß ««*<! .tylishly neat as tha
SSSSi.'VaV.SJ many women £eel ™*
f.,T™f ra f fSS whlte J: »P an e3o trilks are use
ful made in this way, and to hava one ir twj
pf these waists packed in the iummer trur.k
is a great saving of laundry bills, as well es
a pleasant variety even to the women wha
much affect the cotton wai<u».
A Picturesque Idea.
furnth^t e , USefu1 ' butr «-ely ornamental,
furnishings. In a certain summer home
however, the clever mistress has made her
most decorative effects with these affairs,
rod^wh^"^ "I* nd i>"«» * bra "a
Jrf rfntt I k Bhlrred r att»er full a sweep
of dotted muslin or scrim curtain. The
drapery falls to the floor and extends out bet
yond the stand sufficiently far to form a.
d tOT , the 3ar - T** P°°« Sus
pended by a picture wire from a decorative
brass nail, or in some of the rooms from he
picture molding, and the airy effect of thesa
splasher curtains is quite 7 feature of the
home. They are easily laundered and are
teftion sufficiently full t0 ample pr™
The Feminine Observer. r «
Bonnet stringß are coming back. ■• t,
Will there ever be a bicycle hearse?
A fine pillow Is a delightful wooer of sleep.
sihfir 7 S " CerS * F0 obtalnable *a «©ld and
Never eat a full meal when bodily ex
Taffeta ribbons take the lead for stock col
lars and belts.
There is a marked fancy for loose fronts in
Would life be any happier if every couple
were really mated.
The very fanolful belt is relegated to tha
realm of shoddydom.
The baby's biography is a book all young
mothers ought to keep.
When tired you more easily take cold than
when fresh and invigorated.
My lady of fashion employs a dainty es
sence, never a heavy perfume.
Long satin bags for carrying fans" have tha
fair owner's monogram on them embroidered.
It is well to remember that bathing suits
are made to wear in tha water, not for
beach lounging. *
It is said this year that the exodus' to th«
?£T^L[ B J;ZoT-y •" -*■*»"«
Something new in salads Is stowed 'cherries
or currant* served on lottuco leave*, witk
Wives of Veteran a
Will be fnrntehed free raftroafl fare to
the G. A. R. encampment by th«
Globe. See page 18 for the explana