Newspaper Page Text
Copyright, 1902, Economist Camera.
The delicacy of the peach blossom, ths
purity of the lily, the grace and dignity
of the rose and the exotic loveliness of
the orchid—all are emphasized in the !
beautiful, filmy summer gowns of mulls, ;
organdies, mousselines, grenadines, and :
other chiffons with which womankind is
preparing to array herself at the first
breath of hot weather. She is to go forth ;
upon her all-conquering way robed in
gowns of surpassing loveliness, whose !
daintiness and finesse of charm will only ;
lend additional fascination to the exhales
in her passing.
The shirtwaist girl, Miss Athlete—she of ■
tii manis'li stride —is at last outshone by |
Mademoiselle Dolly Varden. Maid Marian. :
la pompadour and Dv Barry. After all, \
it Is masculine taste and desire that rule ,
rorld of womanhood, and while the ,
Imitators of masculine habits have receiv
ed hearty admiration, still the mind mas.-
Bdmlres most truly softness, rlufn
n< aa and femininity in the attire of the
woman it sets upon the pedestal for per- I
petual adoration. i
A plmpse into the atelier of some of our !
gownmakers is the most convincing \
that for the eye of mankind is now
being prepared a feast beyond compari
son with that of any hitherto set out in
the history of fashion. Not that the shirt- !
waist girl is to be a nonentity—a thing !
of the past; far from it. For she has !
very i leverly found cut that she must bow
to the inevitable if she would retain a
urn df the homage so lately hers.
She is. therefore, donning the shirtwaist
of essentially feminine qualities, dainty
things that the masses of tucks, lace-em- I
broidery, medallions and insertions—all of \
these she appropriates to her use and not '
only that, (but she has also discovered j
that the shirtwaist—that most useful and !
long-suffering of garment—ls only suit
able at c.-rtain times and seasons; there
fore she intends to likewise array herself ;
in the dainty dimities and gay gauzes of
la mode elegante.
Fresh e\idcnce of the passing of the
masculine type of womanhood is given
in the current gossip regarding the wed
ceremony of a noted Philadelphia
belle. Her brisk, athletic stride altar
wards has come In for no small share of
amused criticism, some of the guests
- •-! 60 far as to say that the
i choir, which preceded her, was
in danger of being run down. Every one
had become so accustomed to seeing her
■I in the severe tailor-mades and
ii, cts at all hours of the day, that
naturally her elaborate and expensive
white satin and duche&se lace gown,
with the vti! of airy tulle, seamed de
cidedly out o€ place, coupled as it was
with her masculine stride. The pic
tiueness of the bridal group was,
however, preserved by the dainty pink
and white chiffon and satin gowns and
tlj pretty shepherdess hats of the
l"-\y of young Baltimore beauties who
in !>ri.u's chosen attendants.
IJul to return to the beautiful wash
gowns which arc being, or are about to
nade for the coming summ« r. Ever
the New Year the members of the
Bet have been planning and con
sulting with their couteiierea concerning
irrangementa of these beautiful fab
rications. It depends entirely where the
fair wearer intends to spend the sum
mer and to what use she means to put
her gowns, as to what the foundation 13
I > be made of. If the climate be cool
or damp, as is most generally the case
at thi seashore, then a silk lining is
ted, because of the added warmth
and protection it gives. But the lead
ins mediated say that even such rich
women as Mrs. Astor and Mrs. Vander
bilt are oftentimes choosing a lining of
lawn, because; first and foremost, as such
gowns me only worn by the fashionable
woman one season, she inclines to the
al .Mid tightest material obtainable,
knowing well that it adds to the charm
ing daintiness of he: picturesque attire.
Also, it must be whispered, that the mil
lionairess is oftlimes of a frugal turn of
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* j**' .-■'.■ ■ ■ --'""fry
The atrongr poJnt of the new reason Is the tailored silk eown. The coat h» al way* a tailored coat today, for no woman
BUTTONED-UP-THE-BACK LINEN SUIT.
\ &£> a , IfeMßm. \\ V *
«H| *-:■.. £&?¥ ' * * * if ' 9Hc '1 i * ' '
■ "in' - ■■.:.■..' ||H .J±jmL— ___^_-:---
This costume is the acme of simple, tasteful, beautiful gowning. The tucked
waist, trimmed with medallions, with its short sleeves, is admirably a^lapted to
show the figure at its best, as is also th c simple, graceful and tastefully trimmed
skirt. Costumes of this description are made to retail at $12 and $15 and are
marvelou&ly well finished and artistically cut.
mind, and she has c >me to learn that
whereas for ten silk-lined g';wns she must
pay quite $750, she will be a'de to S"t ju.Tt
about twice that number of the delight
fully artistic and pictutesque gowns lined
Softness, delicacy, airiness, is the key
note of the summer gown and most har
moniously it is sounded in the various
pompadour, Dv Barry Dolly Varde^i,
LOUIS XV. COAT OF BLACK MOIRE.
THE ST. PAUL GLOBEJ, SUNDAY, APRIL 6, 1902.
■-.-■.-■ _. ■ . ■
The Rose, the Lily, the Peach Blossom
and the Orchid All Contribute to Add
to Her Charms. **-*&• $* &
and eighteenth century effects. The
Quintessence of quaintness and demure
ness is the ideal to be attained in all
modes. If the fair wearer is to be in
some sense ihe originator of her own
gowns, then she must seek for the true
inspiration from such pictures as Sir
Joshua Reynolds' dear little "Miss Pen
elope,' 1 Gainsborough's famous "Duchess
tf Devonshire," from Watteau's frail
■Shepherdess." An earnest study of old
prints is an equally wfe^ thing. In fact
any style which appeals to her own in
nate sense of artistic, refinement will be
well chosen, and thus afce will readily at
. tain the somethin S A-thir je ne sais quoi,
which the Parisienhe \ s pleased to call
chic, or in the latest argot, the dernier
cri dv mode.
The skirts of thin* gowns are not beings
made with so much of the serpentine
effect as is to be seen in those of cloth
and silk., but rathe* O f the straight front
variety—a style which is more adaptable
to the needs of the thin, gauzy fa.brics,
and which lends itself more readily to
the embellishment afforded by many
ruffles, frills and furbelows. Laces and
embroideries, especially the haute nou
vcatue, the blind embroidery, are be
ing much emp-loyed, and in profusion, for
the adornment of such gowns. Today
It Is not so much the material of which
a gown is composed that one pays for
as the trimmings end the style, and, after
all, the style's the thing.
Of coloring- there is such a variety to
choose from that it would be an endless
task to even attempt a description. They
are indicated by the old-time embroider
ies seen in the museums, but which have
attained their perfection of tone and shape
by the soft touch of time while the color
ing of the muslins of "today owe their
chief beauty to the wonderful knowledge
of chemistry evinced in their manufac
ture. Never before in the hi?tory of the
world has woman gloried in such beauti
ful colors, never before have such artistic
designs and materials been manufactur
ed for her delight, and, en passant, the
delight of man. The shop windows are
one mass of beauty. Delicate morning
glories trail gracefully over a white mull,
and in beauty of coloring vie with the
tints painted upon the originals by Dame
Nature. Wreaths of tiny pink roses in
the set designs, so much affected by
Madame de Pompdour, are strewn upon
another white background, while still an
other attracts by the dainty bunches of
June roses through which a slender rib
bon effect in ciel blu« twines in and out,
a la Louis XVI.
The black and white combinations are
most fetchingly trinaned galloons, and
touched off at the neck with a yoke or
other trimming in which the most becom
ing shade of yellow, blue or pink plays a
prominent part. The pretty china-blue
mulls make up at once into both dainty
and useful gowns, trimmed with white
embroidery or lace, and a bit of soft yel
low liberty satin in the front of the
bodice. The yellow shades found in the
cotton goods this season are marvels of
becomingwess, while the white em
broidered robea executed in all manner of
designs and weavings, with combinations
of lace effects artfully introduced, make
up into most stunning creations.
Many beautiful combinations in Per
sian, Japanese and Chinese color
ings are being used, and they give the
Oriental tinge of color to the gowns that
is so much to he desired by the brunette
of olive-hued complexion, for they tone
in so exquisitely with the glowing color
of her skin Nor are the same color
ings unbecoming to the blonde beauty,
since they very generally enhance the
gaiety and sprightlinesa of her com
The elbow sleeve finds many adherents
for wash gowns, and the fashion has
called forth an unusual demand for the
beautiful old-fashioned lace mitt of the
days of our grandmother. They are now
made in the most attractive patterns and
while shielding a part of the arm
not always desirable to exhibit, yet still
they reveal enough of its soft creamy
hue-3 to give added charm to one so
gowned. Then, too, is there any more
satisfactory way of showing off the \>e
jeweled fingert, than by means of a lace
mitt? For these who do not care for tne
mitt the lower part of the sleeve is often
made of some sheer embroidery or lace,
corresponding in style to the trimming
of the neck.
Pique, marseilles and linen are to be
used chiefly for the morning gown for
general utility wear. A smart linen
frock in robin's egg blue is trimmed with
needlework, thro-ugh which is run a nar
row black velvet ribbon. The waist is
made with narrow box plaits, between
■which are graduated stripes of the em
broidery and velvet. With this is to be
worn a coarse atraw hat of deep yellow
shade, covered with the bluest of blue
corn flowers, among which r.estles a black
velvet shepherdess bow. This is cer
tainly a costume to attract all eyes as
■■ miladi strolls through the village street,
upon marketing errands intent.
The mercerized cottons which are so
profusely shown this season Jjave given
new impetus to the vogue of wash mate-..
rials, and it depends entirely upoi' the
thickness or thinness of the goi as as
to the time and place of their exhibition.
For morning wear at the Newport casino,
or at a Bar Harbor concert, nothing can
be lovelier than these sheer mulls and I
gauzes with their glittering sheen as of |
finest silk, and elaborately ornamented |
with the newest imported trimmings. :
Mrs. Beimont has just ordered a host of
such gowns in the various tones of red
and yellow so much affected by her, and
which are so intensely becoming to her
brunette beauty. The cendre locks of
Mrs. Alfred Vanderbilt ;are to be thrown
in relief by the yellows and greens dis
played in the many ruffles and frills of
mousselines and cotton grenadines, while
her intimate friend, Miss Edith Gray, i
will dance through the season in blues !
of cerulean hue, and the cerise and noir
combinations of color so much in vogue
with the Parisienne of smart proclivities
The accessories of the?e simple little
morning gowns of daintiest hue and ma
terial are important points to consider,
and the jewelry in Tart nouveau designs
has been pronounced just the thing for
belt buckles, chains and pendants. They
are in all shade of'gokt'and studded with
many precious or ..semi-precious stones.
The posy in her* hair, the knot of rib
bons, or the bejeweled comb that keep
rebellious locks from straying—all are
to be carefully considered as the final
touches that go to make up the artistic
whole and proclaim the woman of fasn
km as distinct from the woman wno
copies. The American woman who ha 3
hitherto lisp-d in sweetest accents wnen
complimented on the beauty of h<n- gown
that "it is so easy to be well gowned in
Paris," is now changing somewhat of her
tuner and adds New York to her list of
places where one can gain the perfection
of style so much to be desiiTd of all ,
Lady met a brigand
Captive she was took;
People raised n ransom—
Goin' to write a book.
Love-sick girl not jilted
Sought a distant nook;
Brooded on her troubles—
Goin' to write a book.
Man, he thought he'tf travel,
Took a. flying look
At some foreign countries—
Goin' to write a book.
Fellow torvk a fancy
To be turning crook; ~*
Trarnpin' didn't pay him—
Gcin' to write a book.
Millionaire an" pauper,
Valet, maid an' cook,
Everybody's sot; it—
Goin' to write a book.
—H asnington «siar.
Come! we are sickened of dearth,
Tired of the bareness'of earth.
Worn by the winter'^ long s;~.ite;
Come! that our eyes may oehold
EV.zon of purple ar.rl g">U.
Carpet of shimmering white.
Come! for the waiting was long.
Come! for the thrush tunes his song,
Calling thee forth to the day!
Hailing the dim, laggard dawn.
Flaunting from flower-bed and lawn,
Crocus, come, darling as gay!
Come ere the asphodel dare,
Ere to these regions of air
Prosperine steals from below!
Come for our senses' delight.
Purple and golden and white!
Burgeon and blossom and blow!
Com«! for thy time it at hand.
Come! as broad through the land
News of thy coming takes wing.
And In thy little, thy clear
Rustle of brown petals here
"Whisper the promise of Spring!
—Fan Mall Uazette.
Bound to Conceal Hta Identity.
It is ?ald that at the court ball of the
coronation William Waldorf Aator will go
disguised aCs'an American citUen.—Ltfe.
> __ ' (
1 ~~~~ ; ~~~ ■••;
! •' —OF ELEGANT .
i Monday morning we will give you a chance at some of the best
[ bargains ever shown in St. Paul. You will have a chance to
, compare goods and values on this sale with the many that have
[ been put in front of you lately. Draw your own conclusions. If
i these goods and prices don't appeal to you there is no ''string on
[you" to make you buy. Every Suit in this sale is new. only re
, ceived by us on Saturday. We don't intend or expect to make
[ money (nor shall we lose any), but merely to do a little personal
i advertising. ::::::::•• : : : : : :
[ This is the story—which only is good if the Suits are what WE
i say and what YOU want. We have 178 Suits, sizes 32, 34, 36
[ and a few 38; regular retail price, $15 to $20 and $22.50 to $35
--i one of a kind only—no duplicates in St. Paul. We divide
[ these into two lots,
> You will see samples of the Si©.©© Lot in one of our win
| dows, and there is no Suit in the lot worth less than $15, and
> some of them $20. In our other window you will see samples
[of the SI 5.00 Lot ß The cheapest Suit in the lot was $12.50
i wholesale, and many of them $22.50, or $1875 and $30.00
| retail. Use your eyes; come and look and if you want a Suit
i and can wear 32, 34, 36 or 38 size, "its up to you" to take or
[ leave the chance.^ Any Suit not sold by Wednesday night will
i go in our stock at regular prices, so here's your chance. We
If want you to see that when we advertise a "sale" it's what we
i? advertise- Alterations will be made without charge.
i , ( •_. . .— __—. _
99 and 101 East Sixth Street.
TEE BLUE AHD WHITE LAWN.
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.., This gown is of navy blue lawn of the finest quality, dotted with minute! but
clearly white.. printed rain-spots, thrown in irregularly, but completely covering
the fabric. The combination, .with white in the sleeves, and the narrow, black
lace-edges in the blouse, as: well as the insertions, combine to give an tffactlr" ,
and. simple dress, tasteful and individual at the same time. These costumes i«»
tail from $15 to $25. . ..... \ »
Jl STIFIt \TIOX.
You say I love him best.
While shines on me from out your
strong, true eyes,
Of anger not a trace.
But Just a look of doubt and hurt sur
You say I love him best,
Though he cares neither for mv woe no.*
And slack' not Ms p a r P
Though he must know that at his char.
He drag's my poor, sore heart.
Which needs must follow him to d>-pthci
The tares that he has sown.
His mother's aged hands mug) help him
I love you, love you both;
I cannot bear that look' of hurt sur
You are my staff and hope;
To him my heart in long ever cries.
You both lay on my breast;
Each baby face was equally my pride;
The song 1 sang to you
Expressed the life my babes had glori
While with full heart 1 crooned,
.Like two .soft doves yoi aril ro
When from his eyes there nicked
An evil thing, 'twas gone Ik
I caught him to my •
I sought to stifle it with ftei
But eon, 'tis true the while
I kissed you not, 1 loved you non I
And so through all these years
He's been to me afflicted sick of soul.
I pray to Thee, dear Lord,
Oh cast the evil out ana make Him
I do not love him best;
Each day I see him die a mortal death.
And mother-love must guard
And save him from himself, with every
I know not whence it came;
Bui "sin is death," 1
Oh. aching mother-love?
That cannot say, but bell
H- is my silent shame;
With your true life you are my 3ile.it
Begrudge hjm not this love;
My poor afflicted on< he need it n
—Cora L. Hazard in Boston Transcript.
"Twin Ever i'liun.
The weather bureau soon will change
■ It 3 ever-melancholy song;
Instead of blizzards, twill predict
The super-heated wave, ere long.
A I'oi-m »■ Fat*.
You cannot choose your earthly lot,
Nor right all seeming wrongs.
The clam likes not
The chowder hot;
But that's" where he belongs.
• • — Washington War.