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A beautiful head of hair is so important
an clement of woman's perfect beauty that
U is the desire of every woman and girl to
possess It, yet as many mistakes are made
in the efforts to attain it as in the care of
the complexion.
The hair is almost Invariably an Index of
the physical health, its vigor and abundance
depending upon the strength and Integrity
of the whole system, ai;d uo feminine charm
suffers more disastrously from disease and
6ickness. It is seldom that the nervous, ir
ritable woman has line hair, and overwork
and worry, everything that exhausts the vi
tality or depresses one, quickly impairs the
health of the hair, causing it to change in
color and quality and to fall out.
But mere abundance does not make beautl
t ful hair. Some characteristics, as gloss,
suppleness and a certain liveliness of color,
no matter what its shade, are the result of
fastidious care and cultivation. In nothing
Is personal neglect so manifest as in un
kempt hnir, and some modes of hnirdresslug
in recent years have made these "touselly"
mops flagrantly offensive.
Absolute cleanliness is as necessary for
the health and beauty of the hair as for that
of the skin, but there is such a "disagree
ment of doctors" as to what is required to
insure this that the lay mind is naturally
befogged, and many a fine chevelure has
been sacrificed to a method of treatment pro
claimed so authoritatively as to invite con
fidence, yet which was iniquitous In practice
and based upon entire ignorance of the struc
ture of the hair, which is extremely delicate
and will bear no harsh measures nor any
form of irritation. Then, too, constitutional
peculiarities make it imperative that the
wisest, most hygienic rules be accepted
merely as guides to be adapted or modified
according to individual idiosyncrasies.
Don't Overslinmpoo.
It Is ettsy to carry shampooing to the point
of harmful excess, but, perhaps, no other
regimen ever did so much harm as that
dictum launched upon the credulous which
prescribed K>o strokes of the brush, niuht
and morning, as a sovereign remedy for
scanty, dry or falling locks. When these
strokes were administered with a wire hair
brush it became a destroying rake, pulling
out the hair and setting up an inflammation
In the hair follicles fatal to their health.
But these 100 strokes, even when given
■■, with bristle brushes, if applied with the
Bearching strength commonly commended,
V. so as to penetrate to the scalp, are detri
- .mental to the integrity of the hair structure.
Fortunately, the practice of massage,
which stimulates by gentle, firm pressure,
without irritation, is generally taking the
place of overbrushing and the use of the
brush is being restored to its legitimate of
fice, which is that of a polisher, to .spread
over the hair natural oil exuding upon the
scalp, giving it a satin gloss and also to
cleanse it of the atmospheric dirt and dust.
If you will wipe your hair with a clean
towel after it has been exposed to the grime
of a railway Journey, or even to the atmos
phere of Manhattan's streets during this
sort coal summer, you will see how much
soil can be removed from rho hair itself by
gentle strokes with a brush of only medium
stiffness.
The brush should bo adapted to the thick
ness of the hair, a stiffer one being required
fn£ one head of hair than another, and it Is
poor economy to buy cheap brushes. If ex
pense must be considered, put the value in
the bristles, not In the back. The best
combs are ivory or shell, but the Indispensa
ble qualities of all should be smoothness
and regularity of well-rounded teeth A
single rough or broken tooth can inflict se
rious injury by splitting and breaking the
hair. Use. as few hairpins as possible, and
only those of shell or celluloid, to fasten the
weight of hair. The tiny invisible wire ones
do no harm when employed merely to fasten
a wayward, stray lock.
How to Treat Oily Hair.
The frequency of shampooing must bo reg
* .ulated by the exposure of the hair to dirt
- and by the characteristics of the hair as
well. Where the secretion of oil is scanty
there is usually, also, but slight perspiration,
and the hair is very dry. The atmospheric"
soil is, therefore, not held by it, as is the case
with oily hair, and a monthly shampoo la
usually all that is required or beneficial. In
a pure atmosphere six weeks might an
swer. Oily hair, however, may require a
fortnightly cleansing, with a special sham
poo when exposed to more than usual soil.
Tho color of the hair should be considered
in selecting a shampoo, because of the effect
of certain chemicals upon the color. Am
monia and soda brighten blond hair, but have
a tendency to whiten brown hair, and, as
U/l?ei? Ope <?omes Back To Tou/n.
, After a pleasant summer's outing, free
from sickness, many wonder why they get
ill just as soon as they return to town and
occupy their nouses, which have been closed
during the warm months. They throw open
«the windows to admit all the sunshine pos
sible, and think that air and light will uiuke
their homes "sweet and fresh," as they ex
press it. They forget that their grand
mothers did not have to take plumbing into
consideration, and it requires more than
open windows to undo the mischief that the
most modern variety may have accomplished
while the waste pipes were enjoying a dan
gerous holiday during the family's absence
„ . from town.
Kven If the exposed parts of these be
nickel plated, every pipe should be flushed
• the moment the house is unlocked, and not
for a few minutes only, but for at least half
an hour. In addition to this washing out of
pipes, some sulphate of iron, a solution of
carbolic acid or some, other good germicide
should be poured down each one, and the
drains in the yard and cellar treated in a
similar way. Do not trust their use to an
inexperienced person, however.
After the waste pipes have received atten
tion the rooms to be used at once, pending
-I the regular housecleauing, should be thor
oughly swept and dusted. Where there are
bare floors or matting sprinkle them with
gome disinfectant, otherwise place saucera
of it around the rooms.
This accomplished, the pillows, bolsters
nnd mattresses to be used the first night
should be laid across the clotheslines in the
yard or placed near the windows, where not
1' a ray of sun or a breath of air shall escape
them. They should be beaten well with a
rattan beater while taking their sunning.
Attention should next be given to the bed
steads and springs, which, after being tbor
eblv justed, should be washed with cold
■rate*. In a couple of hours the beds can
thus be prepared for the uighr, and will be
fresli and sweet smelling. Of course, no
housekeeper would think of using bed linen
•bleb has been packed away all summer
without airing It iv the sun. for a few hours,
vhieh. should also be done to the blankets
\j»e Ammonia In China Closet*.
In. the china closet dishes are apt to have
coating of dust, which may yield to a
•'wiping off," but only wlth danger to those
\ vho will use them. Every dish, glass, knife,
i fork and spoon should be thoroughly washed
•." i lot BU ds and rinsed afterward in hot
Alter and every pot, kettle and pan in the
- "kitchen also. While all these are being
cleaned tuc closet shelves should receive a
they are drying in their nature, they should
be used infrequently aud with care, observ
ing the effect closely, as what agrees with
one may not with auother. Light-colored
hair is also brightened by a shampoo made of
two ounces each of rhubarb stalks aud honey
steeped in six ounces of white wine. Let it
stand for 24 hours, then strain; put in a
bottle with a drop stopper; use as a lotion,
wetting the entire hair, massaging, wiping
and leaving to dry in.
For brunettes a cup of red wine, having an
egg and a snlispoonful of soda beaten up In
it, is pronounced an admirable shampoo, the
tannin in the wine, as also the egg. having a
tonic effect upon the scalp and the hair fol
licles.
A most agreeable shampoo for all hair, and
as beneficial as any, is> prepared by beating
up an egg in three tablespoonfuls of warm
water—not hot, that would cook the egg
adding to it a teaspoouful of diluted glycer
ine preferably with violet water) and a
pinch of chlorate of potash. Besides its
thorough cleansing properties, this shampoo
is tonic in its effect and strengthens the
hair structure. The iron and sulphur of
the yolk are nature foods for it, while the
white, being a mild alkali, mingles con
genially with the oil from the sebaceous
glands, forming a saponaceous lather.
In all shampooing, and especially when
the cleansing agent is tonic as well, the
scalp should be thoroughly massaged. This is
done with the tips of the fingers moving
in a rotary motion, and pressing the scalp
firmly, but gently, so you feel it move under
them. Begin lv front over the forehead and
go back to the crown, then forward to the
temples and back and forth till the fingers
of the two hands meet at the nape of the
neck. Finish by long, caressing strokes
down the sides of the head from the crown
to the neck to stimulate the venal circula
tion.
Massage for Dnby.
' Massage Is also very beneficial to the
Uaby's scalp, to which no comb and only the
good scrubbing with hot suds and ammonia.
The kitchen tables next call for attention,
and the butler's pantry and the icebox
should not be neglected. If possible, it should
be placed iv the yard, where it can be aired.
If it is stationary and has its drain pipe con
nected with the waste pipe it should receive
as much attention as ihe wash basins up
stairs and, like them, should be flushed and
disinfected. The inside of the box should
then be thoroughly washed with hot water
and ammonia, the racks and shelves treated
to a similar operation and all afterward
rinsed with cold water. Place a small piece
of charcoal on a saucer in one corner of the
box before It is used; in fact, no icebox
should ever be without a lump of it. As it
absorbs impurities, it should frequently be
renewed and the old charcoal burned.
Now the house may be occupied with
safety while the housewife prepares for the
fall cleaning. If this is done methodically
it need not be looked upon with dread.
First have the furniture covers washed.
They should be soaked iv cold water to re
move the dust from them, then well washed,
rough dried and packed away unstarched.
One room should be cleaned at a'time and
not the whole house upset, and if the fol
lowing hints are followed they witl simplify
the work:
Painted walls should be washed with luke
warm water and pure white soap. A sponge
or a flannel cloth should be used, never a
brush. As each place is washed it should
be rinsed off with clean water uud dried with,
a clean piece of flannel.
Where roaches or other insects are sus
pected sulphur should be burned. Of course
there should be no fire in the room during
that process. Every crack and crevice
should be stopped up with cotton or old
rags, the keyhole filled with cotton, the
windows closed and everything made as air
tight as possible. Make a foundation for
the sulphur pit by placing a few bricks on
the floor, upon which a dishpan with a little
water is placed. Into this put a small iron
kettle with the sulphur candles, light them
and leave the room for three or four hours.
Where it is possible at the end of that
time to open the windows from the outside
it is better to do so, but otherwise hold a
wet towel over the mouth and nose, run into
the room and throw open the windows as
quickly as possible and retire from it with
out delay, closing the door again. After an
hour or two all the sulphur fumes, which, It
should be remembered, are deadly if inhaled
too much, will have escaped.
Sulphur tarnishes gilt picture frames and
metal, so all pictures should be removed and
THE ST. PAUL GLOBE: SEPTEMBJSK lyua.
softest brush should be touched during the
first year of life. The fingers themselves
impart a vitality and electricity for which
there is no substitute, tending to stimulate
the healthful secretions of all the glands.
Indeed, massage may be said to do for the
scalp what physical culture does for the
body; it not only promotes the growth of
the hair through healthful activity of all
the cellular structure, but prevents the re
laxiug of the muscular layers forming the
scalp aud by promoting the circulation
stimulates the secretion and distribution of
coloring pigment.
Massage is also a remedy against that
condition of the scalp which causes dan
druff, winch in itself is not a disease, only
a mark of neglect; but which is hazardous to
the health of the scalp and may encourage
annoying disorders. There are certain con
ditions of the scalp following acute disease,
as typhoid fever, when the hair-growing
structure is so disordered that the hnir falls
out in handfuls, and the rubbing of the
gentlest massage loosens so much hair that
it is better to substitute a light tapping
movement for the rubbing. This is done
with the finger tips of both hands and a
loose or pianist's wrist. Begin at the crown
aud strike with alternating hands the finger
tips held so close together that they strike
nearly in the same place. Work forward and
downward from the crown till you have
gone over the entire scalp.
Braiding: the Hair.
It helps to keep long hair from tangling
when shampooing it if it be braided iv two
the chandeliers tightly covered with a thick
blanket, which may be securely fastened
over them.
Light velvet and Moquette carpets are
greatly improved by a dry cleaning with
cornmeal. Five or six pounds of the coarse,
yellow variety will not be too much for a
good-sized room. Remove as much of the
furniture as possible and have the carpet
well covered with the dry cornmeal. Let
this remain on It over night, and the next
morning have it swept off with a clean, new
broom. You will be surprised at the dirt
the meal will gather up and the grease it
will absorb. Now take some clean meal,
and with a new, stiff scrubbing brush give
the carpet a dry scrubbing, after which it
should be swept again. Should there be any
spots left, unless of ink, they will usually
yield to a little scrubbing soap scraped and
rubbed into the carpet with a small wet
brush. Rinse these spots off by scrubbing
them with the brush dipped into clean warm
water.
Dark carpets should be swept well with a
clean broom and plenty of salt. Afterward
scrub them with warm water and soap. Do
not use too much water, not enough to soak
through. Afterward wipe the carpet off
with a cloth dipped in hot water, with a
little good ammonia in it. This will brighten
and bring out the colors.
Kitchen tins may be brightened without
resorting to the old-time method of scouring
with sand. Boil them In strong borax water,
rinse in hot water and dry, and unless they
are very old and have been neglected they
will look like silver. Pots and pans which
have no solder about them may be boiled in
a solution of lye. This cleans them as noth
ing else will do, and removes the accumula
tions of grease and black crust which un
tidy cooks occasionally leave in dripping
pans. A large, strong skimmer should be
used in removing these pots and pans from
the lye, which Is very caustic and eats the
skin. As each article is taken out of the
lye kettle It should be dropped into a pan
of hot water to rinse it off, fished out from
that with the skimmer and scoured with sand
or scouring soap. Lye lessens the luster of
tinware, but this can be in a large measure
restored by boiling It again in borax.
Tea and Coffee for Curtains,
Ecru lace curtains may be laundered at
home and their deep tint preserved if the
starch is made with tea or coffee Instead
of water. Save the tea leaves or coffee
grounds for several days, stew them in
water and strain. 801 l this infusion and
make the starch wltb it. If a very deep
shade Is desired for the curtains use a good
deal, but if not, less will do. The best way
is to dip bits of muslin in the starch and
try the color ou them until the desired
shade has been obtained.
Curtain dryers are groat labor savers, but
if not at hand lace curtains may be dried
just as well by pinning them down on the
floor. Sweep the carpet well, stretch old
sheets over it, and upon these pin the cur
tains. Two people should do the pinning,
iv order to stretch the curtains well, and
get them nice and even aud into shape.
Select a cool, windy day for washing
blankets, and do not be sparing with either
soap or water. Soap should never be
rubbed on the blankets, or, in fact, on any
woolen material. Half fill a tub with warm
water, uot too hot, and make good suds,
preferably with a pure white soap, into
tnls put a blanket and with a clean new
wooden potato masher, which should be
kept from year to year for the purpose,
pouud it as you would potatoes. Pound and
pound, and turn, but do not rub. When
the water is dirty remove the blanket to
another tub of suds and repeat the same
process until It is clean. Rinse several
times in tepid water, but do not wring Tut
as this crushes the nap. Without wringing
hang the blanket across several clean
clothes lines in the yard, so that while it
is dripping the wind will blow through and
Dainty Oyster Dishes.
Remove the oysters from their liquor and
rinse. Strain the juice and put. them to
gether into a saucepan. ' For a quart of
oysters add a tablespoonful of butter four
taMespoonfu!* of rolled cracker crumbs,
one-half teaspoonful of salt, pne-fourth tea
water R °nn^ Per, ana KwUtofc cold
water.. Boil for two minutes and remove
from the fire. Just before serving 8 T
four tablespoonfuls of cream or milk -
For a milk stew scald two cupfuls of milk. ■
2ro?npT a^? nart °f Oysters rinsed and
strained. Add to the oysters a tablespoonful
of butter two tablespoonfrils of cracker
crumbs and a level teaspoonful of salt. Boil
for two minutes and add the hot milk. "
1: Coldslaw or cabbage salad' and crackers
are served with the stew^ - "ackers
Piss In a Blanket.
Rinse large oysters and season with salt
and pepper. ;. Wrap each oyster in a thin I
slice of bacon and pin .it securely with a'
toothpick; Have a hot frying pan ready and
fry until the bacon is crisp. It adds to the
flavor if the oysters are first cooked in butter
and lemon juice. '. - --
Kscalloped Oysters.
Butter a baking dish. Have at hand oys
ters that have been rinsed and juice that
has been strained. Put a layer of oysters in
the bottom of the dish. Cover with rolled
crumbs, dot with bits of butter and season
with salt aud pepper. Continue in this way
with alternate layers of oysters and crumbs
until all are used. Turn over the dish
enough oyster liquor or milk to moisten the
mixture. Cover the top of the dish with
buttered crumbs and bake until brown. It
will take about 20 minutes. Serve in the
baking dish. The escallop may also be baked
in shells or individual casseroles or rame
kins. If the small dishes are used, send
each to the table on a folded napkiu placed
on an individual plate.
Oystera an Gratln.
Prepare a quart of oysters. Put them in
a saucepan, but reserve part of their liquor.
Add a heaping tablespoonful of butter.
Cook until the oysters plump. Then turn
in a cupful of Madeira wine, a dash of black
pepper and another of paprika. Peel and
wash a quarter of a pound of fresh mush
rooms, chop and squeeze them dry in a
towel. Stir them Into the oysters and cook
two or three minutes longer. Then strain
out the mushrooms and oysters and arrange
them In baking shells. Keep the broth hot
and to it add the yolks of two eggs, with a
tablespoonful of butter, ctook for a minute,
6tirrlng well, and then pour it over the con
tents of the shells. Sprinkle each with
fresh bread crumbs and bake quickly in a
hot oven.
Oysters en Brochette.
Plump large oysters In butter and lemon
juice or in their own liquor. Fold over each
oyster a very thin slice of bacon, transfix
it with a skewer, and continue until all are
thus used. There should be four oysters
threaded on each skewer. Place the skew
ers on a double broiler and broil about two
minutes on each side.
Oyster Fritters.
Drain nnd chop a pint of oysters. Mix
with them the oyster liquor, adding enough
water to make about one and seven-eighths
cupfuls. Mix into batter, with two cupfuls
of flour and a heaping teaspoonful of salt.
When It is smooth stir in a tablespoonful of
olive oil and two eggs. Drop by small
spoonfuls into hot fat and fry until deli
cately browned. Drain on paper and serve
bot.
Broiled Oysters.
Plump oysters snouid be selected for the
purpose. Rinse and dry them with a towel.
Sprinkle each oyster with salt and paprika.
Have a griddle "hissing" hot. Butter it
thoroughly and cover it with the oysters.
As fast as they are brown on one side tnrn
them over. Remove to a hot dish In which
is melted butter.
Drain and season with salt and paprika
t
or more loose braids, according to Its thick
ness. These braids are then easily gath
ered up in coils on top of the head where
they can be well lathered. When using a
tonic shampoo it is best to allow the lather
to remain for ten or fifteen minutes before
rinsing. This last operatlou must be very
thorough, in several warm waters; then, if
preferred, in cool but not cold enough to
shock. If for this the head can be held
under running water, or sprayed with a
douche, all the better. Warm towels are an
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acakessing stroke.
25 large oystera. Grease an oysterbroller,
arrange the oysters on it, close It and' broil
over the coals until they are brown. Have
at hand a cupful of the oyster liquor sea
soned with a tablespoonful of butter, salt
and paprika. Add the oysters to it and
serve hot.
Panned Oysters.
Plump a quart of medium-sized oysters
in their own liquor, adding a tablespoonful
of butter, a tablespoouful of cracker crumbs,
a teaspoonful of lemon Juice and salt and
paprika to taste. Serve on toast.
To Boast Oysters.
Scrub the shells and dry them. Put them
aid iv drying the hair, and in warm weather
the task Is accelerated iv the open air aud
suulight.
Immediately after the shampoo, when the
hair is perfectly dry, is the time to apply
food or touic, according to the needs of the
scalp. Very dry hair may require some
bland oil, as olive, almond or co'oanut, and
the follwing mixture Is both nourishing and
stimulating:
ROSEMARY UNGUENT.
Oil of rosemary 1 ounce
O| of sweet almonds 3 ounces
Oil of uiace 35 drops
When oil is needed liquid substances are
best. Hard pomatums, containing wax and
spermaceti, are to be avoided. Care must
be exercised to put the oil only on the scalp
where it is required, cot on the bair. It Is,
of course, easier for a second person to do
this than to do It for one's self. The follow
ing is au excellent tonic for falling hair,
eltuer for acute conditions following ill
ness or when it is chronic:
yvv,«;FA?9I?ANDI HAIR TONIC.
Extract of Jaborandl 2 drachms
.llucture of cantuarides . 2 drachms
SSBStrtSfci::-: fHr
Glycerin .;...." .. 1 ounce
■Kftß-y^.;......:r^aj. :
■ *»<lerflower water....;.....;.. ounces
Dissolve the quinine ■in the alcoholic
"quids, theii add the other Ingredients, i
Snake before using, and apply every night r
rroui a drop-stoppered bottle, wetting the
scalp thoroughly; and massaging for live or
ten minutes. . , . : •. . ,
For a t relaxed condition of the scalp, ae
compared excessive secretions from the 1
elands and loss of hair, ttU herb lotion
nas proved remarkably effective:
Cr.* HERB TEA LOTION. - .
Grof n D ( , S M Sli (fresbly drled) 2 °«ncei
Bntii.'V -•• .2 ounce* :
I at in an iron pot that cau be closely cov
ered, and pour over the herbs three quarts I
of boiling water-preferably soft; let sim
mer till reduced one-third; then set one
side to stand in the pot 2\ hours; strain
and bottle; keep in cool place. Wet the
whole head very thoroughly every night and
massage the scalp for 10 minutes night and
£n rin ; , Th'8 tonlc has «ulckl y arrested
"'7. ha, lr Bnd greatly stimulated the
giowth of new/ in some cases it ha al«o
"stored the color. It has, however, the In
the hSr en hCf* Of ?' nlDg the pUIow UDles"
the hair be dry before retiring.
ELLA ADELIA FLETCHER. V
The Breezy Summer GirL
kow- is the time the summer maid
Irepares for her campaign.
And sallies forth, nil unafraid,
New victories to gain.
With all her war paint fresh and bright,
P»ew graces learned and charms,
6ne sceufs afar the coming light
And yearns to test her arms.
She fills her trunks (all 17)
With weapons for the chaso—
Garments galore of silken sheen
Ami miles of filmy lace;
The sweetest of embroidered hose,
Chapeaux of various styles;
And muses on the string of beaux
Who'll fall beneath her wiles.
And when a proper place she's found
Where men do congregate.
Convenient, near come golfing ground,
Or yacht club, situate. ■
Then is she ready for the fray
ADd starts with all bee might
To golf and sail or wheel all day.
And dance—and flirt—at night.
Her ehapL-ron will stand aghast,
Nor will It ease her mind
To hear "If I am going too fast,
Why. you can stay behind."
With many an inward <iualin she waits,
Bat needs not be afraid;
In these affairs propitious fates
Vv'ill always guard the maid.
When time has flown on rapid wing,
■ And summer'days are o'er, ■•:
The scalps which at her girdle swing
Are counted by the. score.
'Tis hers the joyful task will be .;*• ■ ■*-.
•The news alar to spread,: \. - ; ,Vw "?
"Engagements had I twenty-three,
And still lam not wed." • >
HELEN COMBES. • •
Her Kid Sieve Pillow,
A utilitarian girl has devised a pretty pil '
low, ami a sensible one as well. She uses the .
wrists and part of the backs of discarded
kid gloves for her purpose, as every woman
.well knows that when a glove is worn out its -
( wrists are still "as good as new."
Every woman, too, acquires sooner or later
a lot of wrinkled wrists of everything, from
party to walking gloves, and she wonders, If
she thinks about it at all, what they are
good for.
But the girl who makes everything do duty
in some way has made the coolest, smooth
est, nerve soothing pillow in the world.
She cut her glove wrists Into triangles and •
squares and whatever shapes she could to
• employ all of the clean parts to the best ad
vantage. These she basted down upon a
canvas lining, and then worked them with
"cat stitch" In yellow doss. The effect was
charming, with the warm autumnal shade*
and the.soft grays and ivories. To judge by ;
the looks of it after a good deal of hard and
thoughtless wear, it will outlast.any silk on
damask one that was ever made.
in a baking pan and place In a hot oven for
nbout 20 minutes. Serve on hot dishes or
turn the contents of the shells into a hot
tureen and season with butter, popper, salt
and lemon juice.
Pickled Oyster*.
Mince a cupful of vinegar, a cupful of
white wine, two tablespoonfuls of salt, three
tablespoonfuls of peppercorns and a little
mace. Strain the oyster juice and add it to
the liquid. Let it come to a boil. Then
pour it, hot, over the oysters. Let them
stand 10 minutes. Poor off the liquor.
When it and the oysters are cold put to
gether in a Jar and coyer tight
