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6 SPRING WRAPS AND ATTRACTIVE HATS-BY ADELAIDE SAMSON yx ' -*• maaaaaaaa\ " -xx ■•£. ..-^Si****r>«JF- | |i^. i ... j^-** .iiaiypßl': :^S^e«-s^sf^^fll :'*«PK;- --? BF? ujajawf **? • Mm^mmW^ aa&sa BB? '* A^B W^S mam afl Bk%. si fl? - "& irt"- * SB IB HH*bL Some Delicious Custards^By Mme. de Ryther ABOUT this time the price of eggs ought to be much lower than during the winter, so that it will be possible for persons in moderate circumstances to indulge in custards and other dishes largely composed of eggs. In making custards never use the whites of the eggs, as they are sure to make the custards thin and watery. Just use the yolks in the. body of the custard and whip up the whites with sugar to make an ornamental mer ingue over the top of . a pie or pud ding; or keep them for making angel or white sponge cake. Custards should be very sweet. , To make a delicious custard pie, first make a rich paste, roll it out and fold it., and then put it on a plate on the ice as directed in all good, rules for making pastry. While the pastry is getting properly chilled in the re frigerator, mix the custard after the following directions: For one medium-sized pie baked in rather a deep tin, beat to a cream the yolks of three fresh' eggs and four heaping tablespoonfuls 'of granulated sugar. Add a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter of a nutmeg grated. Stir these ingredients well through, then add enough milk and cream mixed in THE waist illustrated in the accompanying sketch looks as if it might be a formidable task for an amateur to ven ture on. As a matter of fact, it is really no more difficult, although re quiring considerably more work, than making a plain shirt-waist. " X ' '' ' X :-.*'..**'- *'"" "?\ "■ -r ' ' - '. X Light blue straw in new pipe design equal portions to nearly fill the pan in which the pie is to be baked. Stir all the ingredients till well blended, then roll out the paste, line the pie tin, and put a little border around the edge of the paste by cutting a thin strip, wetting it and laying it on carefully. Fill the dish half full of the custard mixture, then stand it in a quick oven. Be sure that it sets perfectly level, so the contents do not spill out at one side. . With a cup, or ladle put in the re mainder of the custard mixture, filling the pie dish almost to the brim. Let it : bake for about eight minutes with ) the heat; well v turned 'oh; then moderate the heat so that the pie bakes rather slowly till done. ;Do not let the pie bake till the custard cracks across the top. Watch it close ly, and when it is a nice light brown over ' the surface, the pie is done and should be carefully removed from the oven and placed where it will cool gradually. ; Boiled Custard. one quart of boiled custard, beat to a cream the yolks of four eggs, five heaping table spoonfuls -of granulated sugar, one teaspoonful of corn starch, one salt spoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of extract of vanilla. Add enough rich milk to make a quart of the whole mixture. Put it in a double boiler and let it cook slowly till it is the con sistency of a thick cream. Then re move it from the stove, and after it Up*to*Date Tips for the Home Bressmaker****Waists With Lace****By Rosa E. Payne= It is for making in any soft texture that will look well full. The bands are strips of insertion bordered with narrow stitched bands of panne, silk, line cloth, or anything suitable for the material of which the waist is com posed. Lace appliques are set in at inter- SUNDAY MOKNING, MAY 1, 1904. has stood in a cool place for five min utes, pour it in a glass dish. Grate a little nutmeg over the top and let it get quite cold. Then stand it in the refrigerator or in a large pan of chipped ice till ready to serve. This form of. custard may be orna mented over the surface - with little flecks of currant jelly and with the whites of the eggs whipped up lightly and put in little mounds over the sur face. It is then called floating island. By. the addition of a small cupful of grated chocolate, well stirred through the mixture before adding the milk, a fine custard chocolate may be made. Preserved strawberries or raspber ries- stirred through the custard just before removing it from the fire makes a delicious fruit custard. ; A 'delicate flavoring for a custard may be obtained by crushing a leaf of a rose geranium plant and dropping it into the custard when it is put over to cook. Remove the leaf before the custard thickens. Baked Custard.—Prepare the mix ture as for boiled custard, leaving out the corn starch. After mixing pour the custard preparation in an earthen baking dish. Grate nutmeg over the top, stand the sh in a dripping pan half filled with water in a hot oven, and let the custard cook till slightly brown over the surface. Or pour the mixture in custard,-cups, stand them in a dripping pan half filled with water and bake in a quick oven. Ivals, and the tucking is of chiffon, crepe de chine, or an all-over lace may be substituted for the tucks. The sleeve has an upper part which is practically a continuation of the shoul der tucking, and the lower part gath ered under the trimming band is also edged with one. If desired very light, the whole sleeve may be of the thin material, and if that is too full or light for the stitched band trimming, it may be finished by some tucks along the lower edge. The fastenings are in the back, and by means of hooks and eyes down the center, the division being hidden amcng the folds. Either a well-fitted plain shirt-waist or plain bodice pattern may be used with a fitting sleeve for cutting the pattern. If a bodice, join the parts of the back together, to have the half-back all in one piece, and leave the darts open in the front. Join the shoulders together and lay this out on a piece of stiff wrapping paper to cut it all in one piece, plac ing the middle back edge to a straight one of the paper, and cutting the front edge by a fold and to the old pattern from the neck corner to several inches down only, and then continuing it straight down. If from a plain shirt-waist pattern, it is only necessary to put the shoul ders together and cut the new pattern all, in one with a fold down the center front. On this make lines where the divisions of the plain setting parts are to come. Any kind of a design may be mark ed out in - this way, and. then carried out on the paper, just as lace is work ed on a foundation of linen. .- X X/- In Diagram *I. the lines - are mark ed, dividing the tucked sections. The next thing is to cut each of . these out on separate ; pieces of paper by laying a ' piece under the pattern and THE dressy hats of the new sea son are, as a matter of tra ditional fact, in an alto gether tentative condition. In shape, coloring and general effect they are exquisitely dainty and verge to ward the picturesque. And as the picturesque can never be applied by a single article of dress, the odd coat is used to bring about an appearance of harmony. The new straws are delicately tinted in combinations of color that are quite indescribable. For instance, pastel shades of green are trimmed with shades of blue, purple and hyacinth without the slightest suggestion of in congruity. As an example of the possibilities of green, there are the new shades of tea green, moss green, sedge and young leaf, made up with contrasts drawn from the purple and blue of the grape and plum. Indeed, it may be said that all the new colors can be traced to shades and tints of the grape and plum, varying from green, crimson, purple, to the faintest green blue, and purple pink. These delicate colors naturally call for delicate materials. Thus, the new straws are lace patterned and are elaborately decorated with chiffons, tinted ruchings, laces and ribbons, with the addition of rich medallion ef- i jBl »;■ 'Pi a B An odd coat showing tucked design TO LAUNDER LACES. In laundering Battenburg and Re naissance laces, it is better not to iron them. Instead, pin a white flannel cloth to the ironing board, and over this put a clean, white piece of cheese cloth. Pin the lace down carefully at all the scallops and points, and stand the board near a radiator or register where the heat will dry it quickly. The results are far more satisfactory than using an iron, and the lace will last twice as long. tracing through the lines v/lth a wheel, then cutting by the perforations made. Now each one must be enlarged to allow for the tucking in the following manner: Measure the smaller curve and decide how many tucks it will take. The edge must be enlarged to allow double the width of a tuck for each one. For example, if the half neck edge measures seven inches and there are to be quarter-inch tucks with a quarter-inch between each tuck edge and the next running, there will be fourteen tucks, which will take up seven inches. Therefore, that amount must be added to the original size, making it fourteen instead of seven. L ** \-* V /-; O \. 3 £ > S I / >!* ,/ Place your tape measures carefully around the small pattern to find where it measures the required amount, and is yet parallel with the neck edge. It is an easy matter to throw the outer edge out to the same distance. fects and streamers of either ribbon, chiffon or lace. Outside of the Goergette turban, which somewhat resembles a saucer with an all around rolling brim, the new hats are characterized by broad and eccentric brims, whether they flare over the face, with a sort of shepherdess effect, or are posed on the coiffure with an inner crown, the brim rising in high flutes or ruffles that completely hide the crown. Military shapes of every variety give every promise of attaining popu larity. They are not essentially pic turesque, but they are neat, coquet tish and jaunty. The crownless hat, fitting closely at the back and shading the face with a gracefully curved flare, is seen constructed of alternate straps of ribbon and lace, or of all over foliage and small flowers. Full blown flowers are not in evi dence, and for the first time in years fruits and berries are tabooed as being incorrect for any style of headgear. As already suggested, the odd coat has evolved from the present mode of picturesque hat. For instance, a charming jacket of pale blue cloth is worn with a straw of almost the same shade of blue, the under brim laid in soft folds of blue chiffon looking into a border ruche. The hat is a Parisian model, with a large crown, and an eccentric brim, that flares over the face in flutes, curls backward and diminishes gradually in An Odd Hat Conceit. A hat recently seen in the window of an importer was a combination of art and oddity. It was built entirely of violet chiffon shirred exquisitely on a turban frame. At the left side were <._ cc soft, fluffy owl heads of light violet feathers. First and Last Love. Women never want to forget their first love, but they.have no difficulties in forgetting their last. ';'XyVy Diagram 11. shows the pieces in their original and enlarged sizes. Do not forget that the front edge of the neck piece is put to a fold of the ma terial. To insure the tucks being parallel on a rounded piece of material, di vide the lower marking it with pencil—into as many equal spaces, as there/are to be tucks, and slope them from the top edge accordingly. A quicker but less finished way is to tuck a straight strip to the size of the larger edge, and draw it up to the .size of the smaller one.- This is some times advisable in using very clear material, such as maline, in which it would be almost impossible to tuck to shape. To cut out the lower parts of front ] £.nd back, allow six inches for the ful ness in the front and four at the back, cutting the top edges straight across by the highest points, as indicated by the dotted lines on Diagram I. Diagram 111. shows the cutting of the sleeve, allowing for the tucks. If the lower part is of heavier material, it may be desirable to make it a little less wide; otherwise, the lower part of the enlarged pattern forms the frill, and the upper the tucked portion. .To make the waist, run first the insertion strips on to the wrong sides of the back and front materials. Cut this latter away over the insertions, leaving a turning to each running, which fold back, and cover with the narrow stitched band. If there is any difficulty in correctly placing the insertions, gather the top edges first, place , them on the paper, then run new threads through the fullness to the shape required, and cut off the superfluous material, leaving only a small turning above the running. Then it will be quite easy to place the- insertions; and do not forget to leave room for the lace appliques at the top, unless mitred ends to the trimming bands are preferred. Secure the appliques on quite firmly, cut away the texture from underneath, and make ; the edges secure by hemming with eight-inch wide tape or ribbon. When the lower parts are complete, tack them firmly .on to the paper. Next, place and tack the tucked parts, put V the. appliques in * place, and tack | the bands on to extend just a turning width until it reaches . the back, where it fits"like a cape. Blue ribbon is twisted in fantastic puckers around the brim, decorates and "ruches"; the crown, and falls in generous bows and streamers at the back. The pretty cloth jacket is con structed with a : yoke, rolling fronts and shirred upper sleeves. The fronts are faced with white cloth embroid ered in two. shades of gold. Gold cord and embroideries outline the yoke, and a chou of blue chiffon and gold cord pendants finish the neck. The open coat displays another touch of collar in the Persian trimmings of a white batiste inside waist. A beautiful bronze tuscan straw, with medallion decorated brims, and trimmings of brilliant green ostrich plumes, is worn with a lustrous linen coat, quite silky in texture and cham pagne tinted. These new weave linen coats, more effective even than pon gee, are one of the novelties of the season, and are elaborately designed for dress occasions. The coat, which reaches half way to the knees, falls in tucks from a lace pelerine or cape, over which is applied an artistically slashed colla*rette. The soft material is allowed to fall in nat ural lines without any attempt at fit ting the figure. The sleeves are ar ranged in tucks over the sloping shoulders and upper arm for a short distance, then fall into a loose nun's sleeve finished with bouffant lace lin- X~^ '* -aaSmmmaaW^l'^'^' sf \"*%" SH K. '" intaT'^'i mmf'' * /} y^ ?maW&am^aam^*imamVm\ BflT "lis [*X? a Wmw-' aj In m - SHfef *P Jh rL«ntte Waw&:i*-ii*.' MM **£i. Kl'tl ffe >-*^S-?f"^M-M. ■ .*>» H ********^*******B# '^.****** i *******^CT. .T*L -. i^- 'V^****H ******D<WTf ■!>-t m\ B i~9i B#^**j'aj&<v:'^Hl KyrA HI *"tH! *****f-^*** c^jm^ >**b**i X.** - • \ x "*■ *?-• -? v.-'.-* r >?'.'*'- , .... '-.-'.'-* s' - ? .-^ -:■-..'.- :'- ..-X-?'" ■■,-"■ '.'--.vr-''■.""':■":'■'.■ y *j >\ New dolman wrap, turquoise blue, of black net MADRAS CURTAINS NATURE STUDIES The newest Madras curtaining for summer cottages shows an all-over lattice work woven in wood browns. Over this lattice work trail climbing roses,'with buds, blossoms, stems and foliage in natural colorings all woven in the goods. The thin white ground of the Madras is almost invisible when suspended at a window, leaving only the roses and foliage visible. under the applique edges in each case. Remove the appliques and stitch the bands through paper as well, which can easily be torn away afterwards. Replace and secure the appliques and add the insertion to the neck edge. Then remove it all from the paper, *\ Y\■ \» \ui \V-\ V^i \ \ O \ovi\ I 0:\ I ■//&■/ (** // ? / --.:'■:> -■*■;-■ w.X ■*■ ■-- ?—* cut away the material where there are more than small turnings, and from under the appliques, and make neat and trim with ribbon or tape as be fore. Join the side by French seams; that is, running, or stitching, first with small turnups to the right side, then to the wrong, the second turning en closing the first one. Do not forget to make the edges turned in for the hooks and eyes firm with tape to sup port the sewing on of the fastenings. Otherwise they will soon pull out of shape and probably also tear. The sleeves, after doing the other part, will offer no difficulty. .Let them into the armhole, but finish off the top part by joining under the inser tions, as the other parts have been done, as it is not desirable to have an armhole seam there. Bind the under part of the armhole with ribbon or silk binding. For .smart waists it is an excellent plan to arrange the waist fulness on the figure, closely pinning it to a web bing band set around the waist under neath. When removed, tack.the mate rial to the webbing along the latter's lower edge. Stitch it there; then at about a quarter of an inch above, but not on any account along the top edge. X , y gerie draperies, both puffed and ruf fled. The coat is fastened with lace agraffes, and a handsome parasol of emerald and, tan stripes gives a finish ing i touch to the hat and coat, which can be worn, :by the way, with any spring gown not too pronounced in color. yyX The old-fashioned dolman of our grandmothers has returned construct ed on more graceful lines, and is truly admirable in contour. > I noted among the Viennese models a black net dolman made over tur quoise moire silk. The mantle reached below the hip lines, sloping gracefully from the front over the tucked shoul ders, and was finished by a heavy black chiffon band and chiffon ruf fles, the former ornamented by hand some seed pearl ornaments, and the latter topped by a narrow band of fancy jet. Jet epaulets were poised on the shoulders, and the turnover col lar of turquoise blue moire was also touched with jet fantasies. This coat was to be worn with a hat of dull white fancy straw, with an inside band of black velvet, a chou of blush rose pink and a feather shading from turquoise to, tinted white. A long parasol gave an artistic fin ish to the coat and hat. It was of white silk and chiffon, with alternate stripes of turquoise and a blush rose design. Both parasol and dolman were lined throughout with blush rose pink. To Mark Lingerie. The ready-made medallions, mono grams 'and initial letters for marking lingerie are handy for this purpose. They save hours of hand embroidery, and are as effective as anything that can be done at home. A Good Rule. ; Maude— had no business to kiss me. y" Aleck—No, I never combine busi ness with pleasure. The material below the waist may be cut off as short as desired, and the band, if not stitched higher than specified, will hold the garment well down, giving it a smart, taut appear ance. It is an excellent plan to have one or two nicely fitting silk slip bodices, and skirts also, in different shades to serve in turn under various outer dresses. It is not only much more economical than having the skirts and waists made with foundations, but it permits of a greater varying, and also greatly simplifies the cleaning of thin gowns. It may be readily seen that the paper foundation to work upon makes it quite an easy matter to work out the most mosaic of designs. There is one thing that is of importance, and that is that the paper must be abso lutely correct as to fit and ">ize. It would be worth while for anyone making many fancy blouses to cut the foundation in thin oilcloth; only in that case any machine stitching must be done after the whole has been firmly tacked over the oilcloth and then removed. Do not attempt to carry out this idea with half a pattern any more than you would work a Battenberg collar over half a foundation of linen. Have the whole pattern open only at the sides and where the fastenings are to be arranged, always remember-, ing that wraps must be allowed for the latter. * ■'■-..;•.- yy y / EXTRA I iym .Width 1- -0 EXTRA WIDTH | Pf* -lj T(Jc"ksq DIACR^^^ I**^!