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The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, June 26, 1904, Image 6

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TAKING TOGGERY FOR HALF-HOLIDAY GIRTS— -by katherine anderson
i ■■:-■■ CW« ifßiiiirfF"'' N -^ I m
Florette straw with pastel lavender ribbons in two tones.
THE Saturday half-holiday has
become a recognized feature
from the Atlantic to the Pa-
cific, and with the coming of
warm weather, pretty girls all over the
land are a-flutter at thought of the
week-end frolic.
The girl who is in town for the
summer knows that on Saturday af
ternoons there will be a plentitude of
young men, free from business ties,
to take her to some nearby resort for
the afternoon and evening, while the
girl who is employed in the business
section finds her half-holidays spoken
for long in advance. Even the most
staid of husbands catches the fever,
and drags his not unwilling helpmeet
off for a ride on the river, a picnic
supper in the park or a run to the
nearest beach or lake resort.
Next to the question of the invita
tion—from the right person—the av
erage girl is absorbed in the prob
lem of "What shall I wear?"
Oddly enough, the man who is tak
ing her out on the jaunt takes the
question almost as seriously as she
does. The American man is keenly
observant, and he is apt to gauge a
girl's good sense, tact and adaptability
by her dress. This does not mean
that he likes to see her over-dressed.
STORY OF ONE WOMAN'S
SUCCESS
HERE'S the story of one wo
man's work in life. It is a
bit of real achievement, too,
though most devotees of the
"great god Success" wouldn't say so,
and the achievement has nothing of
brilliancy to recommend it to the
worldly wise.
Rather more than thirty years ago
a family of strangers moved into a
suburban town on the Atlantic coast.
They were English, and the father had
been a sea captain. There were five
children—three boys and two girls.
The youngest girl was a cripple. Her
back was humped and her narrow,
childish shoulders were sadly mis
shapen. For all that she was the first
of the family to make friends with the
neighbors, since, in spite of her de
formity, she was always merry and
her plain, round face was always a
laughing one.
The other children, and the parents,
in fact, were strangely aloof, but
"Baby," as she was known, was al
ways playing about, as happy as the
day is long. From her it was learned
after a while that the family was
really in straitened circumstances.
Through her the father got a job as a
common laborer in one of the fac
tories that fringe the place.* Little by
little it leaked out that after he had
quit the sea he had made two or three
business ventures —one in India, one
in South America and one in Virginia.
When he began he was well to do,
but now he was penniless.
Little by little, too, it came out that
only one of the children, the oldest
son, was normal. Two of the broth
ers and one of the girls were weak
minded, and it was because of their
sensitiveness, owing to these circum
stances, that the family had held
themselves apart from the neighbors.
The strong and healthy son soon
left the place, struck out for himself,
and has never been seen with his fam
ily since then. Upon the mother and
the hump-backed "Baby" developed
the care of the three weak-minded
children. "Baby" was sent to school,
though, where she proved bright arid
quick to learn, and where her circle
of friends widened, so as to take in
everybody, the children of the rich
and the children of the p<*pr alike.
The average man has a proper sense
of the fitness of things. In his busi
ness dealing he comes in contact with
women who do know how to dress,
and he wants the girl of his choice
to live up to his standards of good
dressing, within her means.
Here are some of the things a man
does not like to see the half-holiday
girl do:
Wear the best gown she owns on a
trip to the beach, where he must spend
the entire time guarding it from stain
and harm.
Wear white shoes on a dirty river
boat.
Wear a trained dress when they are
going for a long walk.
Wear a hat trimmed with feathers,
to wilt and droop in salt air.
Wear a party dress when they are
invited to the suburbs to play tennis.
No one would think the half-holi
day girl would be guilty of such of
fenses, but she sometimes is, thereby
trying the soul of the man who enter
tains her.
The semi-tailored effects in summer
gowns are so pretty this year that,
with ingenuity and good taste, the
half-holiday girl can transform her
self for a few hours into a real sum
mer girl and yet keep within the nar
row pathway of common sense.
For a beach trip there is nothing
more economical and in better taste
than all-white wash material—what
She was always busy, both at home
and in school, and though her outlook
and surroundings would have seemed
discouraging enough to most children,
she appeared always to be having the
best of times.
When she was through with the
public school some of her rich friends
suggested that they be allowed to
pay the expenses of further schooling
for her. But she shook her head
wisely.
"My father is getting to be an old
man," she said, "by and by he will die
and then I shall have to earn the
money. I am going to be a dress
maker, and I'm going to begin learn
ing the trade at once. I'm going to be
a first-class dressmaker, too, and you
can help me by giving work to me."
Learn the dressmaking trade she
did, and by the time she was nineteen,
when her father died, she was the best
dressmaker in the place, and quite
able to earn enough money to keep
the family going. Everybody sym
pathized with her, of course, and that
counted, but her work was really su
perior, and that helped her still more.
She was busy every day in every
week the year around, and often she
earned the wages of a day and a half
in one day by taking work home at
night.
As the suburb grew, many rich fam
ilies came out from the big city near
by and built fine country. houses on
the ridge of hills overlooking the
place. Soon the women folk of these
families heard of her skill, her pluck
and her never-failing cheerfulness, and
her wages went up. By the time her
mother went blind, some eight or ten
years ago, "Baby"—she is still known
by the old pet name—was able to
Keep a servant, and whenever she was
wanted at one of the millionaire
houses a carriage was sent for her.
/ To-day, at 40, she is one of the
most highly respected members of the
whole community. Alike in the homes
of the rich and the well-to-do she is
treated as "one of the family" wher
ever she is asked to work. Only
once was she ever asked to eat with
the servants, and then she complied
as cheerfully as if she had been asked
to dine with the President. The ser
vants told about it, though, and the
employer who had put a slight upon
the community's favorite "Baby" was
advised by her friends not to repeat
the mistake, which she didn't.
Whether "Baby" has saved a bank
SUNDAY MOKNING, JUNE 2(>, IMH.
might best be described as the tailored
tub frock. A linen or duck skirt, laid
in stitched plaits and trimmed with
white buttons, and a smart reefer or
eton jacket to match, constitute a
good foundation on which to build.
With this can be worn a shirt waist
of madras or cheviot in damask, with
a linen collar and a crimson tie, ascot,
four-in-hand or string.
A rolling brim sailor, bound with
crimson velvet and trimmed with a
roll and choux of velvet ribbon, a
crush girdle of leather or ribbon to
match the crimson in the tie and hat,
and a crimson handbag, will call forth
the^ admiration of the half-holiday
girl's escort, for the average man loves
a dash of color. Moisture cannot hurt
this costume, because it will rise tri
umphant from the suds.
If the girl and the man are fond of
aquatic sports and expect to sail, she
will do better to wear her pedestrian
suit of cloth, a mixed fabric to shed
dust or sand, with a tailored shirt waist
in one of the heavier materials. A
account out of her earnings or not
nobody seems to know, but probably
she has. Anyway, she is understood
to have a remarkably shrewd business
head on her weazened shoulders, and
it is not at all unusual for one or
other of her humble friends to go to
her for sound advice as to the conduct
of some intricate business affair.
She still has the care of one insane
brother, her blind mother and her
insane sister on her hands, and if she
ever repines no one knows about it,
her face still being as frank and her
smile as contagious as when she was
a child.
"Baby" has surely won "success hi
life" of the real sort and against odds
that would have made most folk stand
aghast at the difficulties to be en
countered.
Women Graduates' Invasion.
About now every year the editors
and the art managers in the big cities
begin to look for the annual invasion
of the woman graduates. From every
state and every territory they come;
from every college, co-educational and
solely for women alike. There will
be tall girls and short girls, blonde
girls and brune girls, pretty girls and
otherwise, all sorts and conditions of
girls, in fact.
Each of them wishes either to write
or to edit or to draw, and the fact
that, though trained with the training
of the schools they have no technical
training whatever, makes not the
slightest difference to them. Most of
the editors and art managers will turn
most of them down, and most of the
graduates will discover, alas, sooner
or later, that they cannot break in.
But some of them—a patient, resource
ful, clever remnant —will win, and a
year from now you Will see their
names here and there in the weeklies
and monthlies.
But the remnant will not be large,
and the keen disappointment of the
great majority who could not win will
overbalance many times the joy of
those who shaft secure the success for
which they crave.
Smartest Facing for Hats.
By all odds the smartest facing for
hats to be worn with tailored dresses
is that built from narrow lingerie
frills. A facing of net is cut to fit the
hat, then covered with innumerable
ruffles of narrow lace, either gathered
or accordion-pleated. Valenciennes
lace lends itself best to this sort of
facing, and if a vest, collar and half
sleeves of lace edged flouncing are
worn with the linen suit, the harmo
nious effect with the hat is very good.
Green linen with heavy linen lace an ideal "tub" frock.
smart stock, in a shade of silk which
combines well with the cloth suit, and
topped with a dainty lawn turn-over,
and a hat in stout straw, with straw
trimmings which will not droop from
salt air, will complete the natty beach
costume.
A word about shoes for the semi
summer girl. Tan stockings now come
to match every shade of leather. They
are not expensive' and they give the
finishing touch to an outdoor costume.
Blue, green, red and black stockings
are worn with black Oxfords, but con
trasts are not considered good form
for street wear, though Yale blue
hosiery with black patent leathers is
permissible.
In the matter of gloves, a washable
suede lisle is satisfactory for the half
holiday jaunt. Kid gloves are an
abomination in hot weather, and it is
a fad this year to keep the hands cov
ered whenever one is out doors. The
distinctly feminine, delicate hand is
coming into vogue once more.
The same may be said about veils.
— -—: ; —Q
A CHILD'S WILD
FLOWER GARDEN
———■ »
The child's wild flower garden was
in a cool, damp corner of the yard.
Each trip to the woods added to her
collection and each addition gave the
garden greater variety. By the brick
walls of the house' there were tall
ferns, and out in the sunshine were
violets.
Moss, put on in patches of different
dates, covered the bare spaces be
tween the spring beauties and wild
flowers.
A few hepaticas and adders' tongues
gave a touch of color. There was one
Solomon's seal, but the child pulled
it up so often to count the lumps on
the root and to see whether any more
had grown that it was always in an
unhealthy condition.
Scattered plentifully through the
flowers, and more prominent because
they never died, were little sticks. On
them she wrote the datjes of the
plants' collection. To the dates she
added their common names and also
the botanical name, copied laborious
ly, word for word, from a popular
book on wild flowers.
The child has planted many more
pretentious gardens since then, but
none from which she has had so much
real pleasure—none from which she
has learned as much.
New Pique and Linen Collar.
The girl who clings to tailored ef
fects even in summer will be pleased
with some new pique and linen turn
over collars fresh from English shops.
They are as deep as the ordinary linen
collar and open in front. At intervals,
around the entire collar and about
midway between its two edges, are
slits or broad eyelets, finished in but
tonhole stitching. Through these slits
a Windsor tie to match the costume,
or for wear with white linen gowns a
black or red tie is run and fastened in
a big bow in the front.
Modifying Electric Light Glare.
The old objection to electric lights
in the living-room, because of their
injury to the eyesight, has been en
tirely removed by the invention of a
peculiar opaque shade, which throws
the light down, instead of radiating it
in every direction. These electroliers
for reading purposes come in a variety
of shapes, and are especially pretty
when finished with bead or glass
fringe.
The half-holiday girl who would be
in line with Dame Fashion's followers
has a veil, preferably washable chiffon.
If she wears an all-white costume,
with blue tie, belt and hat, her veil
should be blue, shirred snugly around
the crown of the hat, drooping over
the face, then crossed in the back and
tied under her chin in a fluffy bow.
A new veil is accordion-plaited chiffon,
but the plaiting is not proof against
moisture and dampness. Therefore
the plain veil is preferable.
Trolleying is a favorite half-holiday
occupation, and the long trips made
possible by connecting electric lines
open a wide vista of pleasure for
young people fond of country life. Tire
hat is an important feature of the
trolley trip, as the girl who ducks her
head and holds fast to her hat with
tired, aching arms is seldom an agree
able conversationalist. A small toque
tight-fitting to the head and held in
place by a trim veil, is desirable. As
swift runs through the open country
create a powerful current of cool air,
A Newsboy's Politeness.
"Take my seat, lady," the young
woman shopper heard in a weak,
hoarse voice. Its owner, standing by
her side, with his torn cap in one
bony hand, and his bundle of papers
clutched under his arm, was a grimy
newsboy. As he spoke he motioned
to the small space in which he had
been sitting.
"He is tired," she thought. And she
answered, "I can easily stand."
A charming and overwhelming
smile broke on his pinched and tear
stained face, and he answered, "Do
take my seat, lady, do sit down here."
As the young woman squeezed into
it he said, "Don't suppose you want
a paper?" And she bought one. -
At the next corner a man got out.
The newsboy was watching and he
took what was left of the seat after a
woman had sat down. Then he look
ed for a newcomer. When in a block
or two a middle-aged woman entered
the car he jumped up, jerked off his
cap and said, with the same smile he
had bestowed upon the woman:
"Lady, here's a seat for you." Then,
when she was settled, "Want a pa
per?"
Then the other passengers under
stood his politeness.
Ingenious Luncheon Place Cards.
Some place cards at a recent lunch
eon contained each a conundrum and
a small pen-and-ink sketch. The pic
ture gave a hint of the answer to the
conundrum. One card, for instance,
had on it a picture of a cake, and the
question "Why is the letter X like
iiour?" The answer was "Because you
cannot make cake without it." Any
riddle book will furnish the questions,
and a little thinking will suggest sub
jects for the sketches.
Glass Knobs in Vogue Again.
Glass knobs are coming into vogue,
and are seen not only on reproduc
tions of old-fashioned furniture, but
also on doors. A summer home re
cently thrown open for inspection was
finished in Colonial style, with white
wood and massive glass door knobs.
Glass knobs on mahogany furniture,
particularly chests of drawers, are
quaint and effective.
Ins and Outs of Married Life.
It is harder to get out of matrimony
than to get in—and it isn't so much
fun.
Tailored waist of soielaine with stock of blue taffetas.
no matter how warm it may be in
town, the half-holiday girl would do
well to take along her silk eton.
The invitation which brings keenest
anxiety and uncertainty to the half
holiday girl comes from a suburban
hostess. This involves the selection
of a frock which will not be too con
spicuous for traveling on the suburban
train and which will yet answer for
the afternoon function, dinner or even
ing affair to which she may be bidden.
A semi-tailored costume in wash
able material, silk or very light woo!
fabric offers the best possibilities. For
instance, a porcelain-blue cotton voile
with white boucle can be admirably
combined with a lingerie blouse tint
is summery and dainty. The voile
skirt is laid in stitched plaits on side
gores and back and falls gracefully
to a broad tuck above the hem. The
front gore is outlined by heavy lace,
which follows the hip lines, forming
a yoke of the voile.
The jacket is outlined with bands
of the lace, finished with strips of the
voile, done in French knots, and has
straps to expose the dainty blouse be-
Vieath. The puffs of the sleeves are
finished with lace bands, gathered in
to a tight-fitting cuff which has a
flounce of lingerie ruffling. The blouse
is of linen batiste, trimmed with tiny
ruffles, edged with narrow valen
ciennes.
For wear with this costume comes
COOKING AND SERVING
SHELL FISH
WITH the exception of oys
ters, shell fish are better
now than at any time of
the year. Clams, lobsters
and crabs, both soft and hard shell,
are delicious.
When buying lobsters, select small
or medium-sized ones, and always
get them alive. If the dealer cannot
assure you that they will be sent home
immediately and while still alive,
have them put in a basket and take
them home yourself or get a messen
ger boy to take them for you.
Never buy a boiled lobster, for it
is a well-known fact that no dealer
ever boils a lobster for sale until af
ter it is dead.
Always buy soft shell and hard
shell crabs alive and get them home
from the market as soon as possible.
In selecting clams to be served on
the half shell, choose the small Little
Necks of even size. Wash them
very-clean in cold water, and just be
fore serving them open them as you
would raw oysters, leaving each clam
in one of the shells with its liquor,
after entirely loosening it from the
shell. Fill a deep plate with chopped
ice, arrange six clams on the ice. put
half a lemon in the center and serve
at the beginning of the luncheon or
dinner.
Accompany the service of clams
with thin slices of brown bread and
butter, or little crisp biscuits, and
with tabasco sauce, horseradish, pep
per and salt.
Fresh raw clams are an excellent
tonic and appetizer and their liquor is
one of the most valuable stimulants
for invalids.
To Cook Lobsters.
As soon as lobsters are brought
home from market have a kettle of
boiling water highly salted over the
fire, plump the lobsters into the kettle
and let them boil not over twenty
minutes. At the end of that time re
move them from the water, drop them
in cold water and set them to cool.
As soon as the lobsters are cool
enough to handle, open each one by
cutting the shell down the back. Then
with the hands wrench them open and
lay them out flat. Crack the claws
with a mallet.
If they are to be served in the shell,
leave the me^at in the shell, and after
they are quite cold put the lobsters
a hat of white straw, trimmed with
porcelain-blue ribbons and white gull
breasts. White lisle gloves, black
patent leather oxfords and black lace
hosiery complete a costume that is
sufficiently dressy for an afternoon
function and not too conspicuous for
travel on the suburban train.
The shirt-waist suit is hardly dressy
enough for the suburban dinner, un
less made with a vest and half sleeves
of lace, when it is not, properly speak
ing, a shirt-waist suit. A frock of
figured organdie or lace-trimmed
mousseline is far too fancy for the
suburban trip, much as its owner
would like to wear it at the dinner
table or during the evening on the
porch.
A safe gown for suburban wear is
the fine wool voile, canvas or mohair,
with vest and half sleeves of net and
an infinitesimal jacket effect.
If the suburban hostess is known to
indulge in out-door sports, such as
walking, driving and tennis playing,
the guest must prepare accordingly
with a pedestrian skirt, not too short,
and a dressy blouse to slip on for din
ner. A golf vest and other athletic
paraphernalia is not necessary for the
casual visitor, and unless a girl goes
in heavily for out-door sports she is
foolish to invest in its trappings for a
single half holiday. A trim pedestrian
suit and a natty shirt waist will be
sufficient.
in the refrigerator. If the lobster is
to be made into a salad or cooked ''a
la Newburg." or in some other way,
remove all the meat from the shells
and, laying it nicely on a plate, put
it in the refrigerator till ready for use.
By removing the meat from the
shells as soon as possible after they
are boiled, or opening the shells for
the gases to escape and the water to
drain out. the lobsters will be sweet
and fresh for a couple of days. But
when kept confined in the closed shell
after boiling, a lobster is really not fit
to eat six hours after boiling.
To Cook Crabs.
To cook soft shell crabs, wash
them first in cold water, then rinse
the pockets at the sides and the apron
as well of the female crab, and re
move the beard beneath. Drop them
in boiling water and let them boil for
five minutes, then remove, put in a
colander, and let the cold water run
over them a moment. This process
is called blanching. Drain them for
an hour, then stand in the refrigerator
till ready to fry.
Have a kettle over the fire with
enough smoking hot fat for the crabs
to swim in. Dry them well in a fold
ed cheese cloth, roll in flour and drop
the crabs one at a time in the hot
fat. and let fry till a nice brown. Re
move with a skimmer, drain them a
moment on white paper, to free them
of fat, and serve on a folded napkin.
or a hot platter with sprigs of parsley
around the edge and quarters of
lemons over the top.
Many folks fry the crabs, after clean
ing them, without blanching, but
they are not nearly so delicate.
Boil hard shell crabs after the same
manner as lobsters, and as soon as
they are cool enough to handle
crack the shells and eat them from
the shell; or remove the meat from
the shells and keep it for future use.
JULE DE RYTHER.
Black and White Combinations.
Among the smartest suits worn by
boys at the shore this summer are the
striking 'black and white combina
tions. The popular suit is of severely
plain white pique in "Buster Brown"
shape, with a belt and small sailor
hat of black patent leather, and a
Windsor tie of black taffeta. Short
white stockings and black patent
leather slippers complete the suit.

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