OCR Interpretation


The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, July 10, 1904, Image 6

Image and text provided by Minnesota Historical Society; Saint Paul, MN

Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn90059523/1904-07-10/ed-1/seq-6/

What is OCR?


Thumbnail for 6

(>
S^PSeS T^A 1? iTB
:OMDWCTED BY MARGARET GBEEMLEAF 111
CASHMERE DESi&N 1M -BRUSSELS WEAVE.
MANY women have long suf- 1
fered from an antique Orien
tal rug taste and an imita-
tion Smyrna rug pocket
book. The result of this unfortunate
combination is often despair about
making their homes as they wish
them, and a determination to "keep
the house clean and give up all ideas
of its being otherwise attractive."
It is a mystery why it has for so
long been the policy of many shop
keepers to offer the New Jersey
Smyrna rug as the only attractive sub
stitute to the house furnisher who
wants rugs and cannot afford the'real
thing. Now,; however, there is a
change. This season's offerings in
carpet rugs of Wilton and Brussels,
and in cotton and fibre rugs of all
sizes and grades, afford a wide and
delightful field from which to choose.
Excellent and suitable de
signs are reproduced, showing the
subdued, rich color which makes the
real article so desirable.
The Brussels rug shown on the
SUMMER STYLES FOR DOWAGER AND CHAPERONE-BY KATHERINE ANDERSON
Calling gown of messaline.
THIS year the dowager may en
joy a sartorial triumph over
the debutante. For every
weave that lends itself to girl
ish wear, there are five that suggest
sxrandmothers and great-grandmothers.
For every mode in frock building that
is youthful, there are ten which add
years to the most slender and girl
ish figure. And as for wraps, they
are distinctly evolved for the woman
who is in the full flush of maturity, if
not verging on the silvery hair age.
In the matter of weaves the dowa
ger has a bewildering array spread
before her. The white linens, shot
with black or trimmed with embroid
ered bands, exquisitely colored, but
still dignified, are above reproach for
left hand side of the picture is a
9x12 size, and sells for $25. The color
ing is beautiful and the design a care
ful reproduction of- the well-known
Cashmere rugs. Old red, dull blue,
ivory and orange are its colors.
This rug' could be properly used in
almost any room, and would tone well
with walls of dull blue, Indian red,
yellow or green. Few color combina
tions are impossible with it. The rug
shown on the right is known as a bou
doir rug. It is of the same weave as
the Brussels, but is made from cot
ton instead of wool. These rugs are
offered for. the first time this year.
They show clear green on white, blue
on white, and red on white effects.
They are said to clean readily and
wear .well, and' they .come in various
sizes, the largest being 9x12 and cost
ing $20.
The fibre matting rugs are recom
mended for mountain cabins, seaside
cottages, or any place where rough
wear is likely. Some of these rugs
have strong colors and pronounced
Indian designs; others show a quiet
mingling of green and brown, yellow
morning wear. Fine black voiles, shot
with white, may be made into dressy
traveling gowns. All the colored veil
ings cling well to the figuro and give
slender lines, if properly cut. In silks
the dowager has the field almost to
herself, for the glace silks have a way
of making the girl who wants to look
young acquire a year in spite of the
most girlish colorings she may select.
Even the pin-striped silks, the small
checks and daintily figured grounds
all have that sheen of silver which is
admirable for the woman of advancing
years.
In the effort secure quaintness
in weaves, manufacturers have made
much of colors favorable to the wom
an in the prime of life, or somewliat
ion the other side of it. Changeable
SUNDAY MORNING, JULY 10, 1904.
and brown, etc. The prices run from
$2 to $12, according to si#. The long
runners, for veranda use, are popular.
. Still another cotton rug is shown
this season. It is called the fermosa.
It shows Indian patterns, blue and
white and green and white coloring,
and costs about; the same as the bou
doir rug, but is much lighter in weight
and less likely to wear well, although
the colors and designs are pleasing.
The central photograph shows a
portion of a hallway wherfi the rugs
are made the motif for a perfect
Oriental scheme of furnishing. The
carved teakwood, Algerian brasses
and embroideries and East Indian
furniture are gorgeous and beautiful.
The central rug is an excellent ex
ample of antique Tabriz, und shows
the floral suggestion in it? pattern
which is characteristic of these • rugs.
The field is old ivory and rich rose,
with misfy blues and reds and pink
showing in it.
Rugs are again used on the wide
treads of the stair. For this" purpose
some exceedingly choice "runners," or
long and narrow rugs, have been se
lected.
Comparatively few householders
have th« means to carry out in such
detail the Oriental scheme suggested
■ t ' ■ \» <j. A v V» ' ''<• )* * '■■."'-'■' -"'■■-■'■■'.' ■-* v
'TjS-.fli' -irf3Wf -".:■-::>' v-^^^Ky" *
•:'^BB- - :■:•■: :■:■;• ■■.. . .■.-. x^flV' '
v .-.•■• A
JHI niilßill
silks, shading from vio-
I let or laverrder to sil-
I ver, in peculiar mauve
tones in glace taffetas, and countless
Other weaves, sue^esting a thread of
nietal in-the woof, distract the woman
of moderate purse, who is torn De
tween the desire to possess -dainty
garments and yet to maintain her dig
nity in dressing-. >■ •
For afternoon frocks there are ex
quisite colorings in crepe de chine,
veiling,- silks, batistes, organdies! and
lawns, far removed- from the wee,
prim model's Qhce considered the only
things suitable for the woman past
her prime. 'For evening wear there is
an equally large range of weaves,
from almost transparent grenadines,
with satin figures, dots or stripes, to
all-over lace robes, that are not near
ly so expensive as the inexperienced
shopper might imagine.
by these rare old pieces. While the
effect is rich and beautiful, it is by
no means necessary to live up so
completely to the character of the
fine rugs. Oftentimes when only one
Turkish or Persian rug is used in a
room it is so placed as: to lose noth
ing in beauty or richness by reason
of less costly surroundings But it is
not a good plan to use imitation
Oriental rugs and the real article in
the same room. Where there is even
one Oriental rug, so much must be
conceded to it. If the floor is bare,
one or two rugs of plain color or two
toned Brussels can be used. A black
fur rug is always as it*
allows the figures and colors of the
Oriental article to claim full attention.
A Hong Kong chair used in a room
where a rug of this kind if featured
should have cushions covered in plain
colored silk,-the £olor being "selected'
from-some tone in the rug. An Orien
tal lantern or an East Indian tabour
ette may bear it,company.
Oriental ritgs have a wonderful
quality of seeming to take on the lead
ing color of their environment. For
instance, if a rug in which soft old
blues seem to predominate is placed
in a room where the walls are yellow,
the yellow in it will come forward
The ever practical shirt-waist suit in silk.
• There is nothing more serviceable
for a summer dinner or evening dress
than one of the black silk nets, or a
dotted net, for which a woman may
have a variety of silk slips, and an
equal variety of berthas, tuckers,
fichus, etc.
When selecting the drop^kirt and
waist lining for a net dress, the mid
dle-aged woman is not confined to
white and. lavender, for there are sil
very greens, blues and pinks that are
none too gay for the woman of forty
five. With a bertha of real lace, or
one of the less expensive berthas of
repousse or point de venise. a simple
black net becomes an elegant and
dignified confection.
When the net is worn over a drop
skirt and lining of white taffeta it is
not unusual to see a bertha or fichu
effect evolved from a combination of
white and black lace. birirk chantilly
being used over a heavier cream or
most prominently. This is true of
any other color, and in a measure ac
counts for the remarkable way in
which these rugs seem to adjust them
selves to all surroundings. The house
holder should, th^efore, acquire an
Oriental rug whenever possible, and
not be deterred by the feeling that it
is too handsome for the simplest,sur
roundings.
It is unwise to buy these rugs with
out knowing something of them.
There are so many good handbooks
now to be had that "rug lore" is
within the range of most people. In
all ci.ties of any size, and in many
of the smaller towns, auction sales
of- these rugs are held annually or
semi-annually by some thrifty Armen
ian or traveling Turk. Attending these
sales and visiting the rug-importing
houses in large cities are excellent
kways to cultivate a knowledge of these
fascinating creations of Oriental art.
It is usual, in speaking of Oriental
rugs, to apply the general term "an
tique" to them. This is largely a mis
nomer. There are comparatively few
real antiques upon the market to-day,
and the amateur enthusiast, who tries
to prove real antiquity for his newly
acquired Royal Kazak, Sarabund or
Tabriz by the worn nap. frayed edges
pure white lace; or a silk
lace, like black Spanish, be
ing draped over accordion
plaited white lisse.
Organdies and printed chiffons'for
evening wear show such delicate col
orings that, with plenty of white lack,
they can be worn by women well .ad
vanced in years, provided colored.rib
bons and girdles are avoided.
An organdy costume sent out by a
smart eastern shop for a Newport
dowager shows a pale yellow ros?
pattern on a white ground. The skirt
is shirred on the sides and in the
back, leaving the front gore plain,
with the effect of a panel outlined
on either side by three rows of ex
quisite Valenciennes insertion. The
latter turns just above the hem and
runs entirely around the full 1830
skirt. The blouse closes, surplice
fashion, in the front, with a tucker
of pure white organdy tucking, alter-
'*— "a-
A. GORGEOUS ORIENTAL /
■;■:■. ;^—- interior. "^s- v%. ■:[
and actual holes, shows himself to be
an amateur indeed. So devious are
th? methods by which our rugs are
faded, rotted and frayed that it would
require much time and space to speak
of them. No veritable antique is al
lowed to reach a state of ravelled
edges or gaping rents; it is much too
valuable. The real Oriental rug, aside
from its age, is a most desirable pos
session. It is hand-woven, and the
finer ones are of exquisitely soft col
ors and wonderful designs.
Much of the patient, painstaking
weaving in Asia is still producing the
patterns and qualities of the rugs
made in the days before Christ. And
by some peculiar gift, the people of
Turkey, Persia and India are the only
ones in the world who can weave
them in their fullest beauty. An ac
cepted authority on all matters per
taining to these rugs gives this excel
lent advice:
"On the whole, the wisest course in
selecting Oriental rugs for all save
the most opulent buyer—the collector
—is to abandon the rather useless
search for genuine antiques and pur
chase fabrics, confessedly new, but
which conform minutely to the high
est standards; which have in the
weaving the requisite number of knots
Jib. / — fvmr '&*9t >4*fISWBL
Net and lace combined on dressy blouses.
nating with Valenciennes insertion.
The bishop sleeves are gathered into
a deep cuff of the tucked white or
gandy and narrow insertion, and the
girdle is of white messaline.
For the silk shirt-waist suit there is
nothing more practical than the small
check or the hair-stripe. Piping and
cording are not much used this sum
mer, but stitched bands and straps,
embroidered bands in harmonious
tints, and coarse laces are much used
in trimming the indispensable shirt
waist suit.
There is nothing mure effective than
a voile or etamine dress for a cool
day frock. Here, again, the dowager
has the best of it. Veiling is essenti
ally a dignified fabric, and, if prop
erly draped, gives height and an "air."
to the square inch; the color o^whicii
will not run when attacked by water;
the patterns of which are purely the
patterns of the East."
Of Indian rugs, the Kis-Khelin is
the one ordinarily sought. It is not
a heavy weave and is chiefly used for
couch covers and hangings. Great
care should be taken in choosing these
rugs. Those of soft, dull tones are
far preferable to those more highly
colored, and in the former the pur
chaser is sure of securing a rug in
which vegetable dyes are used .and
which will stand washing. The Ana
tolian rugs are of splendid strength
and thickness and show beautiful com
binations. Frequently they are "pray
er rugs" in design—that is, a pattern
shown in plain color forms the centre,
with a kind of pointed arch at one
end. On this the devout worshipper
kneels and strikes his head upon the
ground covered by the arch in the
pattern. This design is seen in a
variety of other rugs.
Daghestan, or camel's hair, and a
Khiva Bokhara, or an Iran, are among
the weaves most to be desired as a
beginning in purchasing. The Daghe
stan always shows a mosaic or jew
eled design. The Khiva Bokharas are
made in moderately large sizes. The
field is always a rich, deep crimson,
showing a large Bokhara pattern in
dark green or ink-blue, ivory and
yellow.
The woman whose , figure is no
longer slender should, avoid quantities
of shirring, but if she must indulge
her fancy in this direction, there is a
fan-model skirt which will give her
some leeway. Between each of the
seven gores, just below the hip, a
shirred piece is inset, starting*at a pin
point width and .widening gradually
until it reaches the knee, where it
is perhaps two inches and a half wide.
From this point the skirt flares out
broadly, giving almost the effect of a
flounce. There are about ten of twelve
shin-ings between the hip and the
knee, each finished with a fancy tail
ored stitch. No . other trimming is
used on the skirt, and it ,is one of the
most graceful effects seen this* sea
son.;- .;-.-/ ,•: ■: , ■-. . -

xml | txt