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NEW STYLES OUT
CF OLD FABRICS
American Designers Exploiting
Fresh Fashions by Use of
m OUTSIDE HELP NECESSARY
Country No Longer Must Ask What Is
the Fashion, but Is Enabled to Pro
duce Sufficient to Supply
New York. Purls is never handi
capped In creating fashions by the
actions of other designers. That Is
why she Is powerful. America has nl
ways Buffered under this handicap be
cause she hits followed Paris, asserts
i prominent fashion authority. She
Bias never been Inclined to risk the
exploitation of fabrics, fashions and
colorings that were not sponsored by
the mother of fashions.
It Is said of us that we acknowledge
the besl In every nation und bring; it
to our shores. We know the best in
every department of art, science and
literature. If we are compelled to put
our knowledge to practical use, we at
least have the best te go on. We are
The time lias come for this experi
ment, as we all know, and the observer
thinks that a few medals of honor
should be distributed to those who
have gone "over the tf.p" in designing
clothes In this country. It took great
commercial courage and It required n
sound knowledge of the American
What France Did America Does.
Here are two anecdotes which ac
centuate the point. They happened a
dozen years apart. Mme. Paquln saw
several bolts of checked silk In a man
ufacturer's hands. Neither the weave,
the coloring nor the design was In
fashion, to quote her own phrase. The
manufacturer complained that he had
no cull for this quantity of material
and that he would sell It for about
a franc and a half a yard. Mme. Pa
quln took It all, went to her salons
on the Rue de la Palx, turned the
cheap check silk into an alluring frock
f her own design,' and then wore it
at Trouvllle-by-the-Sea. She made the
frock, the design, the color and the
fabric fashionable. Everyone wanted
to wear what she were. She sold
every Inch of the material nt a price
that brought her unmeasured profit
on the transaction. ,
Last month an American designer
was looking over the stock of a lace
Here's a blue serge coat split. up the
back to make commonplace blue
serge less Insignificant There Is a
long cuirass of colored embroidery
on blue tricot, and the coat is
slashed to a deep V back and front
to display the vivid undergarment
Importer. "Nothing new," said the
Importer. "Here I ara held up with
about fifty Spanish lnce scarfs which
I bought at a venture, thinking I could
distribute them in the trnde In Amer
ica, but no one took them. The one
answer was that they are not In
The designer said that If the Im
porter would give hlra one he would
turn it Into a gown that would sell
all the other scarfs, on condition that
he received a commission on their sale.
The bargain was closed. The gown
was designed. It sold Immediately.
It was copied so fast tliRt the other
49 scarfs melted away like flukes
eonp In hot water. Spanish lace was
offered as a first fashion.
That Is a good example of the
change that has come over the Ameri
can merchant and the American de
signer. We no longer have to nsk
what Is the fashion, but are probably
enabled to make the fashion for our
Management of Black Taffeta.
It is easy to realize that taffeta hns
come Into a first summer fashion, al
though the popular mind does not re
gard it as one of the lovely weaves
One of the new black taffeta gowns
that Is far from commonplace. The
skirt Is a series of small ruffles
edged with white silk cord and cut
In peg-top fashion. The slim bodice
Is mounted on a yoke of taffeta
braided with white cord, and the
short sleeves are cut In one with the
yoke. There is a pink rose with
green leaves at the waist, and there
are green 6hoes and stockings.
of the world, because It Is plentiful.
There Is no trouble about getting all
the taffeta one wants, and it is best
that we model our wardrobes for the
near future on the materials that can
be bought in this country in sufficient
quantity to correspond to our needs.
Much can be done with this mate
rial that will result In a gown out of
the ordinary and conspicuous for
churra and cleverness. If you could
have seen n woman who came into a
restaurant for dinLer wearing a cer
tain black taffeta gown, you would
have been convinced In the twinkling
of an eye that the fabric matters noth
ing If the designer has cleverness.
The skirt was made of narrow
ruffles that extended from waist to
nnkles, each ruffle edged with a white
silk cord. The hem was excessively
narrow. The foundation for these
ruffles fitted the figure like a sheath.
There was a bodice, straight and sim
ple, and the major part of It was a
yoke with short sleeves which was
braided with white cord In a fantastic
design. At the side of the waist was
a deep pink satin rose with green vel
vet leaves. The slippers and stock
ings were green. There was nothing
demure about this black taffeta gown.
Treat Blue Serge in Various Ways.
Blue serge is a fabric that will al
ways be with us, as far as the manu
facturers and the war board can look
It Is usually midnight blue, and,
given a few yards of it in this color,
the designers do not want to sit down
and turn' it out into insignificant
frocks and inconspicuous suits.
A woman who came to u "defense"
luncheon one day wore a blue serge
gown that wns the product of a clever
designer ond it surely turned our
Ideas about suits topsy-turvy.
The coat was split up tin? back as
well as the front. It was worn over a
long cuirass blouse, the kind that
gains In Importance every day. The
blouse was made of a richly embroid
ered tricot In blue, blnck and dashes
of dull red. It did not cling tightly to
the figure, but outlined It more than
usual. Over It hung the loose blue
serge coat, opening in a deep V In the
middle of the front and the blnck. It
was closed at the neckline and had a
collar of the serge. There was a loose
belt of the material, and the skirt
was exceedingly narrow and short
By the way. It Is wise for any wom
an who orders a new suit today to see
that the skirt has a sizeable hem, for
the new order to the shoemakers,
given by the government, which de
mands low shoes for the duration of
the war, may change the skirt length.
I doubt It The length mny be
changed, but It will not be because of
the low shoes, for gaiters, which are
made of fabric, may be as high as
desired, and women prefer them to
We may also adopt the French fash
ion of wearing serviceable Oxford ties
with straight heels and rounded toes.
The bootmakers say they hnve more
orders for these today than ever. With
such shoes the average woman does
not care whether her skirt is eight
or ten Inches from the ground, unless
she Is given to suffering from exposed
ACTS AMAZE ITALIAN!
Yankee Flyers Credited
Exploits Quickly Win Honors Given b,
King Victor Emmanuel
Italian Army Headquarters. Tin
. Italian commandant under whose di
rection the American flyers are work
ing on the Italian front has only on
fault to find with them. They nevel
want to remain on the ground.
The exploits which brought five oi
the American airmen decorations can
not yet be published, but the value oi
their services may be judged from tin
fact that King Victor Emmanuel trav
eled to the section held by the Amer
leans to make the presentation.
A few days ago Lieut. Alexander C
Craig of New York, while flying ovei
Austrian territory, was attacked by t
chaser plane. By skillfully hnndlln;
his own machine, after a few minutes
of jockeying lie nut his adversnrv n1
a' disadvantage and maneuvered his
own gunner into such a position thai
a burst of mnchine gunfire shot the
attacker dead and sent his plane to thi
ground In flames.
Lieut Harry L. Holtz of Burlpv
Idaho, showed he could combine great
coolness In danger with a thorough un
derstanding of Italian habits nnd cus
toms. On his way back over the Aus
trian lines after a deeo mid Into en.
emy territory his nlane was struck t
a burst of shrapnel from antl-atrernfl
guns. one fragment lodged In the
body of Holtz's machine, another tore
a hole in the right wing, while a third
splintered one of the left-wing spars
nt the same time cutting one of the
aileron control cables to such an ex
tent that a single strand of steel wire
Lieutenant Holtz calmly pointed out
the break to the Italinn mechanic ac
companying him. The mechanic, with
out a moment's hesitation, climbed out
and fought his way to the wing against
a tremendous wind i pressure. Then
lying flat on his face and bracing his
feet against the strut, he grasped tin
damaged cable with one hand on each
side of the break.
Just vt en lie was getting a grir
on Ihe last strand of the cable it parted
nnd the value of his daring action was
apparent With the cable gone, the
big airplane virtually was useless-.. Inn
he coolly clung lliere, substituting his
strength for It nnd enabling Lieuten
ant Holtz to bring the machine safeij
Into Italian territory.
FOOTBALL STAR IN SERVICE
An adept at tackling, Howard Barry,
once a captain of football and now a
lieutenant of war. Lieutenant Barry
was last year's captain of the Univer
sity of Pennsylvania's football team
and is now a lieutenant at Camp Gor
ItfSrfL- i it
The Diary of
July 1 This is the day when sugar
rationing begins. The Food Adminis
tration has announced everyone must
go on strict rations on account of a
shortage. That doesn't affect me any;
I'm prepared for it. I was wise and
bought a supply a couple of weeks ago,
as I saw this shortage coming. Limit
ing us to two-pound purchases doesn't
deter me from having plenty. I went
to six stores and bought two pounds
at each place. I thought that was rath
er clever. This business of asking us
to limit ourselves to three pounds a
month is all nonsense; I can't be both
ered. When we are put on sugar cards
will be time enough .to worry about
how much we are eating.
The Germans are still going strong,
the papers say. I wish there was some
thing I could do to help.
July 4 Independence Day. I shall
chow my independence by having Kilen
make a good old apple pie. The Food
Administration is mill harping on the
necessity of saving sugar. I don't see
vby. There is plenty of sugar to be
hadj I know that. Food officials tell
us there is no danger of a famine if we
limit ourselves to three pounds a
month. I'll let the other fellows do
that I've got plenty, so what's the
use in my depriving myself. I've got
to have lots of 'sugar; my system
The war situation lookB a little
brighter. We'll win yet, but It Is go
ing lo mean a lot of sacrifices. I'm
glad I'm too old to fight. I wish I
could help I i some other way here at
July 10 I bought 25 pounds of sugar
today by signing a certificate I would
use it for canning and preserving. I've
got it put away in the basement There
is danger of a real famine, I believe,
40 it Is best to be prepared. I'm going
to grab all I can. These rules and reg
ulations are only for those who will
follow them. There is nothing com
pulsory about them.
Submarines are busy again. This
war is a terrible thing.
July 16 Ellen wants to put up some
fruit with that 26 pounds of sugar I
bought; says I bought it for that pur
pose and it must be used for that. She
is strong for living up to the rules;
that's just like a woman. She says If
we have more than our share someone
else will suffer. I should worry about
that; I've got mine. I've quit buying
candy for the children; that is suffi
cient sacrifice for one family. '
I see the Belgians have only one
pound of sugar a month. That is a ter
rible condition. I don't see why some
thing isn't done to give them more.
War Is even worse than I had Imag
ined. July 25 Now we are being asked to
limit our sugar consumption to two
pounds a month, beginning Aug. 1.
That can't be done. I wonder what is
the matter with the Food Administra
tion, anyway, that it can't keep us sup
plied with sugar. I told Kilen not to
put any more sugar on the children's
cereal. We've got to make more sac
rifices, I guess, in these times
I hope the Kaiser if whipped soon.
I'd do anything to help win this war.
July 30 I was in a restaurant today
nnd asked for sugar Tor my ice tea.
It's a bore to have to ask for t u;.;ar, but
the Food Administration has put a ban
cn sugar bowls. The waitress would
let me have only two teaspoons. As
that wasn't enough, I took a little bag
out of my pocket and put in two more.
A man sitting at the same table locked
at me and said:
"You're a fine patriot, you are."
"What's the matter with you?"' I
"Do you think carrying your own
sugar around with you to add to your
allowance here is going to help mat
"It is none of your business," I re
plied. "There is plenty of sugar; if
the Food Administration knew what it
was doing there would be no sugar
shortage. This is a free country, any
how." The Blessing in Disguise.
Girl How much for a marrlnira II.
Registrar Ten shillings.
Girl I've only got five shillings with
Registrar Then vou're lnekv. T.nn.
Scientists have discovered an im.
mense amount of underground water
In Egypt and plans ure under way for
boring an extensive system of weiia
for use In dry seasons.
Set for About Five.
"What kind of an ulurm clock Tava
you. Smith 7"
Two years old, chubby, full of gin
ger and with lungs like n fire gong."
Boston Evening Transcript
"Speaking of vaulting ambition"
"Ferdy wants to be a champion at
the high Jump." Louisville Courier-JnnrnaL
a Sugar Hog
"Don't blame it on the Food Admin-',
istration; blame It on the German sub-,
marines; they're responsible. And you
and other sugar hogs are doing more
damage than the submarines by eating
If . M
mi you wuuu
Another man had sat down at the
table and heard part of our conversa
tion. He was rather a belligerent
"So you think you can use all the
sugar you want, do you? Von won't
deny ycurself a little while my two
sons are facing death on the front la
France to protect you and other bloom
ing slackers." And he called a.
waitress, had her take out the tea I
had sweetened and ordered her to
bring me some without any sugar.
"Shut up," he thundered. "I am go
ing to teach you right now to do with
Not wishing to cause a scene, I left
the restaurant. I believe I heard some
people hiss at me as I went out. War
seems to have changed conditions con
Aug. 5 A man came to my house
today and asked me how much sugar I
had. I told him three pounds for house
hold use. He had records showing I
had bought sugar at several stores and
fc&d 25 pounds for preserving purposes
which had not been used. He asked
me if Iknew the peaalty for hoarding
food. 1 told him I did not and did not
care to know. He left. No one can
meddle in my affairs.
Aug. 7 The Food Administrator for
this county was in to see me today.
He asked me if I would give up the
excess sugar I have on hand. 1 told
him I most certainly would not; that
the sugar I had bought was mine and I
intended to keep it. I'd like to sec the
government take It away from ue.
Aug. 131 gave 300 to the Eed
Cross today. And I have let a'.l my
sugar go. That $300 was given in lieu
of prosecution of a charge against me
of hoarding sugar. I seem to have lost
most of my friends since it became
known that I bad more sugar than was
coming to me. No one speaks to me
any more. Business is very bad. My
store is deserted. The women seem to'
prefer to buy dry goods elsewhere
now. I have been asked to resign
from my lodge. They say they want
no slackers and sugar hogs with them.'
Ellen is heart-broken; her friends are
treating her so coldly.
(Here the diary ends abruptly. The'
writer left town suddenly for an ex
tended vacation because of poor health.
This diary was found among his ef
fects.) STOP THE GRUMBLING.
Some dissatisfaction has been
caused by the recent regulations
concerning the consumption of
of sugar. The discontented
should remember that the Food
Administration is not to blame;
they should direct the'r criti-
cism at the German junksrs and
not at the Food Administration.
The shortage of sugar has been
caused by the U-boats. There is
sufficient sugar in the world,
but the lack of shipping and the
sinking of sugar cargoes has
caused all the trouble.
It is a small sacrifice that has
been asked of the people, and
there is no doubt it will be com-
piied wish, although there will
be some grumbling. gut ;et tnt
grumbler think of the ir.e.i at
the front who are giving all for
their country, who are enduring
cheerfully great hardh ps and
extreme danger, and t.ien look
at himself in the mirror when
he complains of being deprived
of the second teasp join.il of
sugar. One look s.iould be
MISSOURI DIVISION, U. S.
IN WATER 19 HOURS
IS SAVED BY COFFIN
Indiana, Pa. In the water for
19 hours und a portion of the
time clinging to a rough box
which coutained the casket of
an American soldier who had
died at sea was the experience
of Frank S. Kepple of Advance,
near here, following the sinking
of the steamer President Lin
coln, according to a letter from
Kepple to his folks here.
" Uplift of Coyote.
The despised coyote has lived to seo
the day when his pelt' is sought in the
fur markets of the world as one of
the prizes of the trapier's pack. The
skin of the prairie wolf toduy brings
a price up to $15, according to the
quotations In the fur buyer's list Up
till last year this fur was a drug oa
the market Duwsou News.