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'"I u V l 3 , I IS FASHION TO TAKE UP SHEATH SKIRT? GARMENT CAUSES CONTROVERSY Many Varieties and Shades of Opin ion OfferedManagers of Moun tain Resorts Welcome innovation "Expert Denies There Is Psy chology in Dress. New York. MUctl In with all the other burning questions of the hour In the problem, to sheathe or not to ahoutlie? To can get as many dlf ftft( opinions aa there are people to consult. It does not Mem to a.Tct the -MMlio hotel m meh. As Ion a tfcer are beaches and bathing tho Im 1irtaitri of the feminine costume with JGftl to the succesi of the oeason is HWlt Hut with the managers of the moun tain ivsorts it is (liferent. To quote on of them: "it nil very Well to talk aeenory nnd MAitAtfon. lite lovely views and the good fcoi Hmi usod to go. but when a man can lake a Urat or an auto uml get nil these ia an hour or two fmm Broadway lie Isn't going to tnko -n hot, dnaty ride for tho same result. If we ooHitl apriuklc a few of these Shaath skirts along the mountain verandas there Ik no doubt that tho oxtivmely painful sight, so familiar to tho manager at present, of an Adnm- lens Wden without even a serpent would mwi away." Otw of them with Imagination pic wr the scene as he has witnessed it and as it ml?:.: ha: At Affecting Women. "Did yim ever watch a lot of wom en trying; to make out that they are Twltetty haj py. sewing and playing WrJdw and gossiping on the hotel bnl Xoft; every one wad as a hatter be Sanae thv has been hoguiled there In the belief either that she would have n flirtation hcr.ieK or the opportunity SffM&? " of miiktng remarks about one? Not" thiMo same wtmion whon a man is tm nppror.chltig. pioleudlntc to be in different if they are unmarried, and If married leveling opera glast.es to it if it may iwsslbly be husband ivfug them a surprise. ' ""If you hare not had this oxperienaet you know nothing about the happy jMOMients of a hotel proprietor's life, who is confident from past knowledge iliat when the ct.?ud of dust rcsolvo 'itself Into a human figure It will be 'the iiertocked swain of the moat un- tfulere' at woman In the bunch and ! wko an iters from tho thousand and one complaints which can at! be traced to Hint source. "Unless the sheath skirt gets too common I am Inclined to believe that it might do a great deal to relieve (this situation, but mind, I any might, mot will. I'd be willing to furnish some iflkirt? on spec if I could get the wom en to do their port-" When It Strikes the Kitchen. The woman of the domestic variety, whom magazine editors study oloscly to find "tit what to give the world to rend, asks with deep wrinkle be Iweon the eyes that denotes unaccus tomed thought: "What will happen when the style strikes tho kitchen?" "It always does." she says, "net something new and next week Aggie or Norn or Mary has it in an exag gerated form. "Our maid at present wears striped stockings, not strips runnlug up and down but round and round. Those sho variitf with largo plnldn and iter visible menus .of support look like dropsical harder polos. "I agree with my husband, who suys that theie Is nothing more attractive than the sight of a charming le-m-b-g costumod in cllk openwork through n Aide opening, but not the cook'a 1-e-m-h-g, If you please. I look forward with horror to tho tlmo whon she will . ,pasthoNtsof t shell crabs and tho char 'JAloUo'ruASgJu n costume of that de scription. No split skirts in my house hold. If you please." Tho physical ctilturist puts It on tho Ground' of economics. "Anything," says she, "that will save tins expenditure of nervous forco Is to be commended. From time Imme morial women have held their drosses up from the ground apparently to pro tect them. In reality for other reasons. If the same result can Imj attained with half the onergy. naturally tho new fashion should bo recommended to every lody." Mcde a Sensstlon. To one of the conservative storoa downtown a young woman enmo the other day. quietly appareled as to color and cut of her drees, but with her navy bluo gown coquottlshly silt to the luire. displaying a dark bluo silk stocking and n Louis Qulnze slipper of small proportions. She began to buy some veiling with nonchnlant case, and the girl behind the counter wait ed upon her. Ignorant of the distinc tion conferred. Not for long. First n cash girl makes the discovery and brings a twin to sec that she has not made a mistake. The news files about tho shop; It reacho3 the bargain counter and oilier places. Thero is a sudden stampede, and In the midst of it tho patron, with a scorching look nt tho crushing crowd, which will hardly allow her to move, mnkes her way to the entrance and thence with a (lying leap enters a taxi, whoso driver looks down open mouthed and eyed to get hor directions. Disap pointed faces framo tho door, and one middle aged woman ssys cattily "What did she expect?" In this same store n buyer, n woman of many years' experience, I3 In tho fceo?r fefotff cfSj "ijFP fF-.: talent? Litfr SDMP&CflL 8f?8RP0lU sc::. uncertainty as to tho sheath sklit as every ono else, but sho has some Information to glvo about It. Invention of Paquln, "When Pnquiu died," sho oxplalns, "he told his wifo on his deathbed that the sheath skirt, already known in tho irado as the Paquln skirt, would bo popular, and Paquln mado few mis takes. Hut tho shenth skirt of which ho spoko did not have tho latest im provement if you call It that. It was simply a sheath, not a dircctolre sheath, and was not slit. Tho first skirts made at his estab lishment had an unusual effect In tho front, just u slight looseness of the material below tho wnist, known to day as tho Paquln cut. Tho success of the shenth, then as now, dopendod on its clinging to tho flguro, showing every lino and curve, and ending nt tho foot with n fad of drapery suggest ed by tho sculptured draperies of tho Grcok statues. If you noto a cnrofully modo sheath uklrt turned out at tho Paquln establishment, or at any other of the Parisian houseo, you will easily traco tho Hellonlc rcromblnnce, and In fact, In somo places the shenth Is known as the Ionian skirt on this nc-. count. "To niakartho sheath a success groat attention must bo given to tho undergarments. Paquln designed for It a new stylo of bloomers, so that sffisvsa' A'iJ(aKV v iss i fy'v MP ffMxv?; V,.k i kt V V vtSCJCL. s ca&eSE icttlcoats need not be worn and the waist and hip lines si ould not be destroyed by a lot of un necessary material. These bloom ers fit closely to the figure and are fulled slightly above the knee not too much, mind and have a few rows of lace pwt on without very much surplus, just sufficient to give the dainty and feminine touch to a gar ment which is not essentially attrac tive. "All the models In ids place wore thce bloomers at first with the sheath skirts. Now ailk tights or fleshings are worn If required, a many women who wear the sheaths prefer them, just as many prefer to spoil their shapo with tho Intrusion of the ohi style petticoat or drop, which should never be worn with them. Producing the Seft Fall. "The soft fall aoout the feet which Is so muchadmlted by the aesthetical ly Inclined Is produced by various de vices, usually small shot which arc sowed to a band of tape, which In t'jrn Is fastened to the edge of the skir. or a few inches from the edge, as pre ferred. Paquln used a rubber band at the knee which went around the skirt and drew It in to give the required ef fect when walking, and some of the sheath skirts have two mbber loops through which the foot iMtsse, but this style, although it gives the sheath walk all right. Is very trying to an ac tive minded woman, as she must never forget them, and while she may not mind the self-consciousness she does mind the discomfort. "I remember one of my first views of the new sheath skirt was at the I'aquln establishment, and a model ono of those lovely girls they have there; bft?an joking and luughlng and Insisted that she could step just as far In a sheath skirt as In other kind. She tried it and tore the costume all to pieces along the sides. After that the sheath walk was adopted, which is the nccossory result of the bands and shot." Another buyer thought there had been unnecessary fuss over the sheath skirt. Puritanical Ideas Criticised. "Tho very people who will sit on a beach and watch the short skirted swimmers, standing, sitting and run ning about, displaying lines and curves with generous abandon, are the very people who have these Puritanical out bursts at the mero Idea of showing tho same amount of figure on the street. Why is It?" she asked. The pulpit has denounced tho sheath skirt, which ought to encourage the makers, and one of the leading lights 7M U': &Y T&Xm ' UJrvh v c ::wmsl s-- it k. in the suffrage cause has como boldly forward In its favor. The stage backs and fills. A club woman Interviewed on tho subject says that sho considers tho new stylo to have a distinctly psycho logic significance, as nil fashions have. "I consider it tremendously Impor tant as showing tho trend of modern thought," sho says. "Every epoch of transition nnd change In political and religious matters has had a corre sponding reflection In tho sartorial. "Look about tho streets today and In other public placoa and you will notico that tho tailor made girl Is conspicuous by her absence. If n sailor hat Is worn or a Panama mascu line In severity, like as not it Is swathed with a chiffon veil and plumes nnd wings arc added. "All along tho line you will notico n frantic effort on tho part of the wom en to nhow tho world that they aro clinging fast to tho womanly charms of seductive dress, to tho frills and fancies nnd fads that woman has been taught to belluve are the symbols of her power, and that she has little real sympathy with tho republican sim plicity ttat would he foisted upon1 her by n minority of her sex. She eschews ovorythlng that Is severe, rigid, mas culine, nnd riots In tho distinction drawn between hor gowning and that of women who aro trying to waken their sex to something moro Important than chiffons. Simply Swing of Pendulum. "Paris showed the samo tendencies right nftor tho simplicity enforced by tho French revolution, nnd every crisis of history thero has had n similar ef fect. Tho prevalent fashions of to-day aro tho fashions of tho boudoir, of tho drawing room, of the auto, not of the business or the professional world. "A few years ago business and pro fessional women saw In the adoption of the tailor mades, tho short walking skirt and various other utilitarian modes a disappearance of the lines of demarcation between classes. To-day they are looking with dismay at tho chasm that is opening. "Take tho sheath skirt as example. A working woman must eliminate that from her wardrobe. She could not ap pear in court, at hor business desk in it. not only because It would bo physically Impossible fcr her to do her work so swathed, but al because It would bring Into business and profes sional life tho very feminine element she Is trying to keep away. "Tho sheath skirt woman Is opposed body and soul to her sex's freedom. The gowning of today I3 a challenge. Use all tho arguments you have at your disposal, one woman says to her sister of tho other world, and we will destroy them with tho waving of a scarf and tho curve of a figure In a clinging grtwn." An expert on woman's dress who has given 37 years of his life to Its study poohpoohs the Idea that there Is any such psychology In dress. "Nothing of tho kind," he says, firm ly. Ho says It as one who knows. "I do not think it is necessary to find occult explanations for each obvious facts. Faris Needed the Money. "Tho truth of tho matter Is that Paris is hard up. She has suffered severely frqm our little panic. Russia too, one of her wealthy patrons, has also fallen off in her orders. Paris hasn't known what to do and has put her wi;s to work to evolve something to appeal to a jaded taste and above all to the American market. "Whether we will prove gullible I cannot say, for It Is as dlfllcult to prognosticate here as in the publish ing or the theatrical world. When 'Tho Old Homestead' runs a thousand nights you are surprised when tho people suddenly demand 'Tho Soul Kiss;' when the romantic drama seems to be absorbing the literary world and writers are busy studying history, the taste veers and nothing but 'Dolly Dialogues' will sell: when you think women arc at last cutting out the futile and adhering more close ly to utilitarian stundards they shriek for sheath skirts with rubber bands to hamper their walk, as a Chinese wom an's shoes bind her feet. "Ono thing we do know. Fashions never really present anything new. There Is only a continual turning of the wheel. The sheath skirt is not any n y .-i M J 0-aK' 6lGC5TOH FOR ZV SlftW ,?F50?r AFfFR. 0M V JMIW newer than a gray hair or a wrinkle. During the Directory It was ono of a thousand styles. Paris was mad, crazy at that time. License reigned In everything, especially In dress and manners, but even Paris did not caro for the style any longer than tho threo months, nnd If dear old naughty Paris drew the lino It would seem that wo ought to cut It out." New Problem of Watchmakers. H. C. Carpenter, a repo3entatlvo of a watch company of South Hend, Ind., held up a camplo watch as ho stood la his room nt tho Hotel Haltlmoro yes terday. "And now tho Jewelers hnvo a now job that of Inventing something that will mako watches usod In skyscrapers koep correct time," ho said. "Don't suppose you know It, but tho pcrpon dlcular steel construction of theso high buildings forms a magnet that acts on tho wheels of tho watches, ac celerating or rotnrdlng tho balanco wheel. That's why so many watches In skyscrapers won't keep tho correct time. Now tho manufacturers must remedy that defect If It's possible" Kansas City Times. Glaes-Bottomed Boats. At tho popular seasldo resort of Avalou, Santa Catallnn Islands, oft tho coast of Southern California, thero Is now a regular tleet of glass-bottomed boats. They aro specially designed to onnblo passengers to seo not only the fish, but tho wonderful submarine growths In tho Pacific ocean. In build , theso craft resemble ordinary row -boats, and they hold from eight to a dozen persons, who sit round the "woll" and gaio through its glass win dows into tho ocean below. Wide World Magazine BOLERO AND BLOUSE :3 ! .1 feis Boftro BOLERO. Thin is a most useful skirt; blue and white striped tweed of white cloth stitched at the edge. sldo of front and back, with a small with buttons; buttons also ornament 1 &BM& s 11 0M IPC Wfl lllil limv 1 HLOUSE OF SILK AND LACE. This little blouso is quite a novel idea i and would be very smart when made; the bodice part Is of the saniomate . rial as skirt, glace silk would be most suitable; It fastens down tho front, and is trimmed along the outer edge with a piece of velvet, tho little lloovoi 1 collar is also trimmed with velvet, the under-arm parts and the sleeves are j cut all In one, in plcco lace, the sleeve Is finished at tho elbow with a bund and curt of the silk, tho cuff Is trimmed with velvet. I1L0USE TO MATCH SKIRT This blouse would mako up well In the Eamo material as the skirt, providing the material is something soft; tho yoke Is of piece lace, piped with silk to match tho material, which is tucked to lit the yoke, the tucks are about one-quarter inch In width, and are carried down threo Inches, tho sleove Is a simple puff, gathered at tho elbow and put into a shaped band which Is piped with silk,, a little bow of silk is worn at the neck; tho waist-band also is of silk. STRIPES AND POLKA DOTS. Methods of Trimming That Will Make Any Simple Frock Ornamental. Ono of the pretty ways of making a simple frock ornamental I3 trim ming it with nn opposite design in the same coloring. To bo explicit, polka dots aro in fashion and frocks in this design are trimmed with wide bias bands of plaid or striped material in the same color. A striped frock is trimmed with a wide straight band of polka dot mate rial. A plain surface Is trimmed with both tho polka dot and the striped fabric, and when the combination is well done H does not really look like a patchwork quilt It can oven be carried out In yokes and stocks, a3 nets In fashionable col ors now come with a tiny iolka dot of white. It is usually in a small open circle instead of a real polka dot, but it gives the same effect. These nets are put In tiny tucks and used Instead of lace, embroidery or muslin. Placing a Couch. Couches aro now ko much used in sitting rooms that any arrangement that has even a spice of novelty should bo welcomed. So try putting the couch In tho corner of tho room so that It touches the wall at one end and behind It. At the other end, with its back against the divan, stand a bookcase, which Is a complete screen to tho couch. The latter piece fronts out toward tho room, so that any one entering sees the Iwokcaso at once, nnd on going farther Into the room the couch comes Into view. Ivory and Gold in Scissors. Ivory handled sclssore are so pretty thev may form a now Incentive to feminine industry- A girl ha3 just brought home from Enron a dainty pair of snippers that aro attractive enough to mako even an athletic maiden' sit down and sow. They aro made of tho finest steel, of course. Tho Ivory holes for thumb nnd finger are inlaid with gold. Nothing just like them has been seen even In the bags of gorgeous brocaded silks which contain tho fascinutlng sewing Imple ments. New York Press. INDOOR GOVN. Plain white lawn was used to mako this Indoor gown. Tho surpllco waist has a broad trimming band mado of triangular sections of tucking put to gether with a narrow beading nnd edged with lace. At each sldo are folds of lavender satin nnd a bow of ribbon with long ends conceals tho ! closing in the waisL Z&M a iDlouie to Maeb Skirt. llttJe coat, In tho same material a3 thu is need here, tho revcrs and cuffs are There Is n wrapped seam down each opening at the end of onoh, ornamented the cuff. LITTLE ERRORS THAT WORRY. How Some of Them May Be Avoided by the Home Dressmaker. It is usually the little errors In dressmaking that are tho most Irri tating nnd annoying to tho woman who does her own dressmaking. Tho unllned waist is one of the hardest garments to fit correctly. When wrinkles come at the base of the arm hole, tho trouble usually Is that the armholo has been made ' too small. If it is, do not cut it out, but simply snip It with the point of tho scissors to see if the wrinkles are removed. If the wrinkles are not removed, then trim tho nrmhole. If the waist wrinkles at tho base of tho collar line In the back, seo If your belt Is In tho proper placo exactly nt the waist line and that tho lino from tho center back of the belt Is plumb. If you me sure that the belt Is cor rectly placed, then snip tho collar with the point of tho scissors at each side of the center back of tho collar and wrinkles In all probability will bo removed. Hosiery Decorations. Since the fad for decoration ha? he como so widespread, tho girl with a talent for fashioning flowers and bow knots with her needle Is decoratlns the fronts of her hosiery from too to ankle with quaint designs. These are of natural flower tints on the dclfcata hosiery worn with evening gowns nnd In self tints for those matching street costumes. Sometimes laco butter flio3 and bow knots are used as In sorts, first being appllqued upon the webbing which is then cut away from tho underside. Faded hosiery of a first-class quality may be successful! home-dyed, nnd thrifty young wom en overloaded with passo evonlug ho. iery may easily transform it Into a sort suitable for street wear by dyeing it tan, taupe, brown cr blue. Ribbons Must Match. Dobutantes-to-bo aro most particular about their ribbon accessories, and gorgeous, indeed, nro some of tho sashes, coiffures nnd blouse bows no ticed at tho week-end society fcstlvl ties to which members of tho younger generation aro somotlmes admitted. With her Dutch-necked dinner frock of girlish white Swiss or point d'esprit tho Jouno fillo wears a flowered sash tlod trimly about her slender waist and nrranged at the hack lp hutterilv loops, two of which may bo drawn hal way to tho shoulders. Tho hnlr bow and sleovo rosettes may bo of softest chiffon satin, matching tho grounding of tho sash, hut her opora glass hag Is preferably of tho figured sash ribbon lined to match Its satin bordering. ' A Pleasant Economy. This Is tho tlmo of year when the mother with a small daughter may ay In a supply of hair ribbons, for thoy can bo bought at this season of tho year very cheap, and a ribbon is always of uso whoro a llttlo girl Is concerned, cither for hnlr ribbon or sashes. To put nway a ribbon when ono finds It for salo cheap Is a ve-y wlso thing to do. and will savo a lot of oxpenso when school begins In the fall. Geld Bands for the Hair. Gold bands aro decldoly more chic than ribbon ones for tho hnlr nnd como in single, double, triple ami ovon quadruple forms. Thesa combiner with tortoise shell or amber are ttt," tremely handsome. Voguo. a a kK 'W-N.