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14 IN THE LAND OF THE MOORS. • A Population of Fifteen Million •'.'. People, Made -Up of Moors, ■. * . .': Arabs and Berbers* .•WOMEN WITH HANDSOME FACES. '" The Peculiar Style of Dress Worn ..-..'■■ by Both Sexes- Flowing Robes ■" of Snowy Hue Adopted by the Better Class- Public Baths. Description of the Palace of the Sultan. FJ5' nE Empire of Morocco is a country • .f i^ larger Until SP. ain * Dis known to ' •' J-Isp the Inhabitants as llagrit-el-Aksa, or tlyf "extreme west," and has an area of . J ,000 square miles. Within these limits ."are tlie three former kingdoms of Fez, Mo ■ ! Jocco and Tablet. The two first were . '. mica by twenty provinces in the north ern and middle regions, with Tafilet oe .' ■curving the southern portion. Tlie whole ' 4>j;tent of the country is traversed from *•:•."". the northeast to the southwest by the •"..-Atlas Mountains, with numerous rivers • •':-. and streams between the different mountain '..•'-. chains. There are 550. miles bordering on • ; tlie" Atlantic Ocean, mid 250 on the Medi terranean Sea. The population Is esti- The Sultan of Morocco. mated anywhere from 10,000,000 to 15,000.- DOO, made up of Arabs, Moors and Berbers. J The women of the three races have fine figures and handsome faces. They are a coOl leal secluded, and partially cover the ice when rut, but there is no difficulty in getting a good idea of their looks. The '. color of the face of the women suggests bronze with eyes dark and luminous and tlie teeth white and even. The negro . population of Morocco is large, with many slaves. The Sultan's black bodyguard is composed of free negroes, who enjoy as many privileges as the Moor in the ordinary walks of life. The Jews are also well rep resented. They come from the Israelites expelled from Spain in 1492, and Portugal in l-lOG. The Anierica'ns aid Europeans in Morocco arc few, and they live in the sea ports, especially Tangier. The national color is white, both sexes wearing flowing robes of snowy hue. In its detail the dress of the men consists of a finely worked skirt (kumja) fastened down the Breast by numerous small buttons and loops, and oi very loose drawers. Over this is sometimes worn a coat with large sleeves (caftau) buttoned closely in front. For out . door wear the haik is indispensable. This garment is a wide piece of thin cotton, woolen, or occasionally silk material, about j six yards in length. It is arranged about the Cody, as also the head, in a series of ar tistic folds, which in our own case rendered dressing without assistance an utterly hope less process. Stockings are not used, aud the feet are thrust into a pair of loose-fitting yellow slippers, to walk in which with out fatigue the wearer must be to the manner born. A red fez cap is worn on the A tcoman of rank. ! head; and round this' a turban made of a many-folded length of muslin. In cold or rainy .weather a cloak of thick woollen ma t-rial (jelabeer) is worn instead of the haik. This bus a pointed hood which, placed over tlie head, gives the figure a cone-like ap pearance. When not in use this hood hangs d-jwn.Uie back. The jelabeer has holes for the arms to pass through, and descends low enough to cover the knees. Many of the poorer classes always wear the jelabeer. j .•sometimes, and especially in the north of Morocco, the jelabeer is of a dark color. In this part jackets and loose trousers of cherry , or some other colored cloth, are also a . good deal worn, and striped materials in various textures are favored by the Moors. The dress of the women is much the same ' as that of the men; butthehaik is arranged 'differently, and is employed in concealing ' the features when any of the opposite sex ire- present. ' The hair is carefully covered by a handkerchief of black silk, over which . another of gay colors is coquettishly ar ranged. The women wear red slippers, and these are often handsomely embroid " ered in gold. The ladies are very partial to jewelry. The wealthy wear finger-rings and huge ear-rings of gold set with precious ■ ' -tones, necklaces of amber or coral and massive bracelets of gold, armlets and anklets of silver inlaid with gold. Diamonds are not much in use, but ru bies,-emeralds, generally uncut," and pearls of interior quality are often seen. The Moors consider that the risk of fraud by -'. " -^s^^S^ea^S Women from the. country. imitation is lessened by not having precious .stones submitted to the art of the lapidary. . The Moorish and Jewish ladies are much given to fictitious improvement of their - -, charms 'by the use of rouge. Both also . stain their hands' and feet with henna, and ."■ blacken tlieir eyelids with kohl. Tattooing ". is also practiced by the Moors. '. * Throughout the provinces of Morocco are a few water-mills of the most primitive . kind for grinding corn, and' In the large towns are a considerable number of corn milrs, each one turned by a horse; but the " • labor - of grinding corn and preparing meal .-= talis mainly on tne women. A small hand mill is to be found in almost every dwelling. Good bread in the form of flat cakes is made and sold in the - towns; but the na tional dish of Morocco la kitskkussoo. This resembles granulated macaroni, and is pal atable as well as nutritious. It is often cook**-} with pieces of meat, and butter is -.usually added; but the latter is, generally speaking, so rancid as to make the mess un endurable to foreigners, unless under the pressure of hunger. The city of Morocco is called " Mar akech "by the Moors. It was founded In 1072 of the Christian era, and the situatiou and surroundings are beautiful. The city is on a great plain, flanked at the north and part of the way on the east and west sides by luxurious woods of date palms. Gar dens, fields and distant mountains fill in the remainder and the southern bound ary. The northern part of the place con tains ilie sanctuary of Sidi Bel Abbesand many remnants of old walls built of "labia." At a distance the city has a solid, compact appearance. The houses of the In the Sullan't Palace-court, better classes are built with a central court, surrounded by long, narrow rooms. One serves fur a kitchen, where the cooking is done by charcoal fires. The other apart ments are for general family use. Near the entrance door a narrow stair case leads to the first floor. This is called the tlotierin. and here it is that the master of the house receives his friends. Each house has a well which supplies water for the laundry, and for ordinary use, but drinking water is obtained from the public fountains, in some instances the horses of the owner divide with the ladies the occu pation of the ground floor; in other words, one room is used as a stable. The narrowness of the apartments in tlie best houses of this country cannot fail to attract the attention of strangers. They are, generally speaking of good height, but are very long in pro portion to their breadth. This arises from the difficulty experienced in obtaining native wood of sufficient length for the floors. 'Xhe width of the room, in conse quence, seldom exceeds ten or twelve feet. The tower of the Katonbia is the only building of stone in the city, there being a great scarcity of this material in its vi cinity. A feature of Morocco is the public baths, there being over twenty. The bath is simi lar to what is known as the Turkish, with men admitted from sunrise up to noon and women In the afternoon and evening. The 1 7be.ee of the Kalcmbia, price for a bath is about 1 cent There are three prisons, with the prisoners fed by their friends or left without food, none being supplied by the Government. All prisoners hive irons riveted about their legs and connected by chains with an iron ban about the neck. The palace of the Sultan is outside the city surrounded by high walls. It covers a space of 1300 yards long by 600 wide, and this is divided Into gardens, attached to which are pavilions. There are two large courts, mchotiar, or places of audience, around which are arranged apartments for Ministers, Secretaries and guards. Tne treasury, containing, it is said, a iarge amount of specie, adjoins tbe house inhab ited by the Sultan whenever he visits his capital city. The floors of these palace rooms are paved with vain colored tiles; but with the exception of mats, carpets and cushions, the apartments contain no furni ture. The southern part of the city is occu pied by the Jews. A section nearly two miles in circuit is inclosed in high walls. It is called "El Melah," meaning the "silted place," and referred to in derision as "hi Messi us," the "nlaee without salt."— St. Louis Globe-Democrat OLD LEGENDS. Some Too Marvelous to Be Be- Moved Are Nevertheless True. ItT has not infrequently been discovered S of late that some of the statements of _f ancient writers which we have regard ed in our fancied wisdom as too marvelous to be believed, are nevertheless true. The geographer, Ptolemy, for instance, wrote that the source of the Nile was in a moun tain range known as the Mountains of the Moon, because ol the snow upon them. M idem geographers, says the Youth's Com panion, tied at the idea that there could be such lofty mountains under the equator, bat Stanley, in his now famous "march to the sea," skirted the foot of a range of snow-clad mountains, called by him Kti wenzori, from whose streams is formed the newly discovered Lake Albert Edward, the extremes! source of the Nile. So Herodotus, the father of history, re peatedly asserted that the Phoenicians thought they originally came from the Eryihnean Sea, or Persian Gulf. This state ment modern scholars have found very dif ficult to believe— the writers of the article Phoenicia in the last edition of the Encyclo pedia Britannica style it "a mere blunder." An English traveler, however, has very re cently made discoveries in the Bahrein Islands in the Persian Gulf which render it almost certain that the great historian was right. These islands are a small group, lying about twenty miles off the Arabian coast, and were formerly of great commercial im portance. The inhabitants, besides pos sessing a pearl fishery which was noted in the days ol Alexander the Great, and now produces the finest pearls in the world, car ried on an important trade wilh Arabia and Persia. This they have almost entirely lost, but with the construction of the Euphrates Railway it will doubtless spring un again. One of the two principal towns has a sin gular water supply in a spring which at high water Is six feet below tbe surface of the sea. "Water is brought up either by divers who go down witli skins or by push ing a hollow bamboo down into it. At low tide there is very little water over it, and women with large amphora and goat-skins, which look very real and life-like though headless, wade out and fetch what water they require." The Arabs believe that this and" several other similar springs on the coast come from the Euphrates, which they think flows beneath the Peisian Gulf in an underground channel, a legend as old as the days of Pliny. In the northern part of the largest island, Which is twenty-seven miles long by ten broad, there is a very remarkable collection of sepulchral mounds, covering an area of many miles. Some of these are elevated only afew feet above the level of the desert. Others are more than forty feet high and about 400 feet in circumference, Several of these, have recently been excavated by Mr. J. Theodore Bent, a well-known En glish traveler, who has given an account of his discoveries to the Royal Geographical Society." lie says that they consist of two cham bers, the one above the other, as is the case with some some Phoenician tombs just un covered in unci' nt Carthage. In the upper chamber of one which he examined were the bones of an annual, presumably a horse, and Innumerable fragments i f ivory boxes, ornament*, bits of small statues. Many of these fragments were ornamented with pat terns which bear a close and unmistakable resemolaiico to ivories found in Phoenician tombs on the Mediterranean. Our readers will doubtless renumber that King Solomon got ivory by means of the ships of Hiram, the Phoenician King of Tyre. The lower chamber was more carefully constructed than the upper and contained human bones, together with the remains of drapery which had- been hung around the walls, another Phoenician custom. The ivory fragments have been deposited in the British Museum, and one of its officials has recently publicly -.aid that "as far as the evidence went at present ho thought the Museum were prepared to admit that the Bahrein Islands probably represented a primitive site of the Phoenician race." - The probable confirmation of the state ment of Herodotus is certainly more satis factory than the favorite occupation of some modern writers, the proving the fals ity of stories which have always been con fidently believed— stories, tor Instance, as that of the Swiss hero, William Tell. THE MORNING CALL. SAN FRANCISCO, SUNDAY. JULY 27. 1890-FOURTEEN PAGES. NEAT, SIMPLE FURNISHINGS. How to Make a Homo look At- tractive by a Small Outlay. Hints That Are Worth Considering by These Who Are Intending to Renovate the Interior of Iheir House]. T£-:T^E read now and then of "how to ai\ir% live on 10 a weelt " or "how to fur wJLlli-^ nish a heme on S3000," but smile pityingly, especially if we've tried it. Any man who ever attempted to build a house on an architect's calculations, and has learned that a SoCOO plan ate Into a £7000 bank balance, knows with what utter con tempt such things as the average "hints on suburban home building" or "furnishing" can be regarded. The one great barrier to economic house furnishing is this: People who are most interested in the subject are usually in no position to attempt it, for to properly exercise any economy in inte rior decoration one should at least have money enough to make a proper start. What ruins the appearance of many homes is the picked tin look about them. They have no char acter. Picked nil things may be cheap, but if they fail as a collection to harmonize, then they cense to be decorative, and the motive is lost. In the first place, then, your rooms must possess a character. If a person should nsk me "What style of house decoration is the most elabo rate, luxurious, and necessarily the most costly?" writes C. K. Clifford in the Pittsburg Dispatch, 1 would say "the Louis XV style." If asked "What is the most sensible, simple and neces sarily the most inex pensive." I would aw mjMJjJs Tlie Corner Shelf. say "fifteenth century style." If asked "Would you furnish an entire house in one style?" I would say "So, I would no more think of haying every apart ment dressed alike than I would put my family in livery. The monotony of such a home would be unbearable— enough to put a man In the mad-house." I would select my furnishing from the most simple styles, for three reasons: First, because the cheapest; second, because lv simple tilings you run the least risk of get ting slop work, and third, because simple pieces, especially of furniture, are more easily taken care of. more easily dusted or varnished. During the past few years wo have had in chairs nud a few other odd pieces the sixteenth century style— a style you will recognize by the worn look of the a\ \\i\Jl\ hooping a curtain. wood. A dark, brown-stained clothes-chest, for instance, shows natural wood on the edges, and wherever there is any carving the natural wood grains are disclosed at prominent points as though the finish had been worn away. Now back a century be fore this sixteenth century period, the fur niture used was still more primitive; the artistic lines were all there, with the charm and richness of good taste; but the resources of the cabinet-maker were limited and the work was by necessity severely simple. We show here a sideboard of the lifteenth cen tury and it can be seen that while the style is good, it is decidedly cheap. Take this, then, as the style for your dining-room and you can proceed on safe and inexpensive grounds. Folks s*iy, "Oh, yes, but the fabrics cost so much." Nonsense. It's simply because you d n't know what to ask for. Tell a friend that yon have at your parlor windows a pair of genuine antique lace curtains and it will sound very grand, yet 1 know a re tailer who is right now selling beauties, simple, of course, for 63 a pair. Here is a list of (heal) upholstery stuffs, all of which are shown in styles just as refined and cor rect, though possibly not in every case as elaborate as the best class goods. SUE • • * ;♦."*♦ i * * '**■'■ b .n. Muslins for curtains, shown in striped and checked ground with beautifully embroider ed designs; madras for curtains, sold by the yard or pair; cotton tapestries for curtains or coverings, finest col oring and effects, many of them direct copies of the most expensive goods; cotton pongees for draperies imitations of the Chinese and India silks, same de signs.colors and weight, but cotton chenille stud's curtains, plain or figured, by the yard or pair; denim for dra peries, same as overalls arc made of; cretonnes, petit points, ramies, spun silks, Canton Man uel draperies, and cot- Fifteenth Century Sideboard, ton plush. All of these goods are inexpensive but artistic. Drawing back or "looping" a curtain is almost invariably done by carrying your cord or gimp from the hook on tlw window casement clear round the curtain. The latest fashion is entirely different. A ro sette, cap or tuft is affixed to the curtain, somewhere about a foot from the inner edge, and the cord is attached to this, both front and back of the curtain. Endless in novation can be introduced upon this idea. Tin- tuft can be covered by a bunch of arti ficial flowers or a heavy bow. If the drapery is on the Japanese order you can cover the tuft with a crab or some such de vice from the Japanese country. I Yellow is the color now that the deco rators are all running — yellow walls, yel low curtains, yellow carpets, with now and then just enough black to relieve it. . -1! women with artistic taste would drop their ambitions studio life and their daubs of landscape and get right down to work for the upholstery trade, they would make more money. But somehow or other, art ists, like actors, go on struggling year after year, apparently fascinated by their pre carious calling, all awaiting patiently and hopefully the master stroke, wliicli will ele vate them iii a night. If Dora Wheeler had allowed her ambitions to rob her of her sound sense she never would have made the money she has or hell the position she now occu pies in the decorative held. I know artists who would nourish if they would get down to book covers, but they soar to cloud paint ing. If they would do a coiling their cof fers would fill up, but they prefer babbling brook*, and canvas bits, dust covered, ne glected, unrcmunerative. They wont work for the trade. Hand-painted wall hangings were some years ago only mado by Mrs. Wheeler and the associated artists, but to day other women have gone into the field and the upholstery stores gladly take all their work. They had the courage of their convictions and worked hard for the trade and the trade's necessities, and many of them have in consequence made the sala ries of bank Presidents, while their bohe inn brethren are still sitting by the bab bling brook. A corner shelf canopy, one of the most universally decorative things that can be used in a house. is made by draping silken curtains from it. - The old-time corner shelf is thus made exceedingly rich looking. The edge of the shelf is dressed off by a narrow brass railing. The illustration shows the treatment. Among tbe very latest decorative oddities which have come to ns from all the world over are Japanese straw mats above live feet long, made In the same way as matting, only designed in colored straw in mat sizes. Bamboo • fish poles are split up and make excellent moldings for wall panels. The fish poles cost about % cent each In India. For every pole 1% cents freight is charged, and then incidental profits do the rest till 25 cents is charged fur the mere rent of the things at the seashore. You never know nowadays when you arc buying Chinese, Turkish or Japanese em broideries; for the decorative craze has encouraged the manufacture of table covers, scarfs, and tidies in this country— copied in the native colorings, designs and textures of the Eastern weaver. The copy Is gener ally - remarkable true. The story of sending warming-pans to the Hottentot?, where they wire ft dead failure as warming-pans but a glorious suc cess as stew-pots, finds a repetition in the big importation of lately of a job lot of Japanese chair-cushions. They were of straw and coarse and entirely unfitted for the purpose intended, but hung on the wall they make excellent memorandum cush ions. They are fringed all round, the edge ornamented by three or four Chinese spiders, and long pins with a tassel on the head ends are used to attach cards, letters or "mems" to it. \ '.-;' STANLEY'S BOOK. " In Darkest Africa," the Latest Work of tlie Great Explorer. ■"TT^-IIE public has awaited with interest •f. B - the authentic account of the expe cjljfff dition for the relief of Emm Pasha and their journey! through the dense jungles of the Dark Continent. Stanley's return, his public receptions and the inter esting romances woven into his life have recently made him a conspicuous figure in the public eye, and now conies the "Quest, Rescue and Belief of Ktnin, Governor of Eiinatorin," before this interest is allowed to subside. Undoubtedly the publication is well timed, and while an erroneous im pression obtains that the publishers by ex pediting the work have shorn it of high literary finish there is abundant evidence in the book that Stanley still wields the same dexterous pen as in the days of yore. The first volume opens with a prefatory letter to Sir William Mackinnon. Bart., Chairman of the Emlri Pasha Belief Com mittee, to whom the work is dedicated, giv ing a succinct review of the expedition with reflections on its successes and its fail ures and lite causes to which they are to be attributed. Following the dedication is an introductory chapter reciting the various political events leading up to the beleaKuerment of Emm, Including the downfall of Khartoum ami tlio massacre of Gordon. The massacre is de scribed as lasting throe hours, during which time 1000 persons at least were killed. The Bashi Bazouks and white regulars, numbering 33-17, and the Shaigiair regulars, numbering 2330, were mostly ail killed in cold blood after they had surrendered and been disarmed. A Greek merchant who es caped from Kartoiuii, reported that the town was betrayed by the merchants there, who desired to make terms with the enemy and not with Farag Pasha. Tlio prepara tions for the expedition are minutely de scribed, lite Impedimenta of the journey, the cost of each article and the amounts subscribed are detailed seriatim. The offi cers and men, with tlieir various traits ot character and idiosyncracies, are sketched in such vivid aud lifelike colors that as the expedition starts ou its long and eventful pilgrimage the tout ensemble seems to be directly under our eye. Hav ing decided ou the Congo route, the expe dition left Zanzibar on the '-'oth ot Feb ruary, 1887, for the Congo Kiver, which they navigated a distance of one thousand miles to Yam buy a, whence the journey through Darkest Africa properly began. I "Naturally penetrating a trackless wild ; for the first time the march was at a lv- , neral pace in some places at the rate of -It 0 yards an hour. At 4 o'clock in the after noon of this day we were still on' the march, having passed through a wilderness of creeks, mud, thick scum-faced quag mires green with duck-weed, into which we sank knee-deep, aim the blench exhaled from the fetid slough was most sickening. We had just emerged out of this baneful stretch of marshy ground, intersected by lazy creeks and shallow long stream-shaped pools, when the forest became suddenly darkened, so that 1 could scarcely read the compass, and a distant murmur, increasing into loud soughing and wrestling and toss ing of branches and groaning of mighty trees warned us of the approach of a tempest. As the ground around about us was' most uninviting we. had to press on through the increasing gloom, aud then as the rain began to drip we commenced to form camp. The tents were hastily pitched over the short, scrubby brush, while bill hooks crashed and axes rang, clearing a space for the camp. The rain was cold and heavily dripped, and every drop large as a dollar on the cotton clothes scut a shiver through the men. 'Ihe thunder roared above, the lightning Hushed a vivid Unlit of fire through the darkness, and still the weary, hungry caravan li.cd in until 9 o'clock. • The rain was so heavy that fires could not be lit, and until li o'clock in the morn ing we sat huddled and crouching amid the cold, damp and reeking exhalation and minute spray. Then bon-fires were kin dled, and around these scores of naming pyramids the people sat to be warmed Into hilarious animation, to roast the bitter manioc and to still the gnawing pain of their stomachs.'' For months through forests primeval they journeyed much of the time without food, subject to the attacks of hostile tribes and cannibals, enduring privations and suf ferings from which deliverance seems a miracle. '• At last on the 29th of April, 1888, at 8 o'clock, amid great rejoicing and after re peated salutes from rifles Emln Pasha him self walked into camn accompanied by Cap tain Casati and Mr. Jepbson uud one of the Pasha's officers. 1 shook hands with all and asked which was Emm I'asha. Then one lather small, slight figure, wearing glasses, arrested my attention by saying in excellent English, 'I owe you a thousand thanks, Mr. Stanley; I really do not know how to express my thanks to you.' " 'Ah ! you are Emm Pasha. Do not men tion thanks, but come in and sit down. It is so dark out here we cannot see one an other.' "At tho door of tiic tent we sat, and a wax candle threw light upon the scene. I expected to see a tall, thin military-looking figure, in faded Egyptian uniform, but in stead of it 1 saw a small, spare figure in a welt-kept fez and a clean suit of snowy cot ton drilling, well-ironed and of perfect fit. A dark, grizzled beard bordered a face of Magyar cast, though a pair of spectacles lent it somewhat an Italian or Spanish ap pearance. There was not a trace on it of ill-health or anxiety; it rather indicated good condition of body and peace of mind." The remaining chapters of the first vol ume are devoted to verbatim accounts of conversation with Etnin, the consideration of tlie situation and of their future pro ceedings. From first to last the book maintains its interest, every page containing something new and startling. Presenting, as it does, the only authentic description of a country soon to be opened to modern civilization, the book cannot fail to be extensively read. For sale only by subscription by A. E. Bancroft & Co., 132 Post street, general agents for the Pacific Coast. Sadie (after the visitors had gone)— " Say, mamma, keep them on a little while." "Keep what on, dear?" - "Your company manners." Life. DESPAIRING ARISTOCRACY. Wealthy Husband* Pang by the Faubourg St. Germain; I\T is becoming more and more hard for r'jFaubourg St. Germain mothers to find rich J husbands for their daughters. As there is no court here, the connect!' n which mar riage with one of these young ladies might open to a nonvel enrich I would be of small value. She could not endow her husband with a title and her pretensions to be better than his faintly would be unendurable. As her forefathers and foremotbers all married for money, she has not the recommenda tion of beauty. The sons of noble families, as such, are not nearly so much prized as tbey used to be by the magnates of the French .lewery. Still, they can pick up in all directions the daughters of men who have made money in business. For instance, a match is contemplated between the heiress of a manufacturer of corsets and a descend ant of Marshal de Grouchy, who was a man of ancient family. Her father is glad to buy a title fur her, and she is delighted at the prospect of hearing a stylish maitre d'hatel announce that "Madame la Marquise est service." A Belgian Prince of a non royal house was able some eight •or nine years ago to get hold of £100,000 by going to Hymen's altar with the daughter of a man who rose from being a street-sweeper , to having a contract for sweeping the streets of Paris. v But his sisters, who were penni less, had to marry poor widowers.— London Truth. AT ASCOT AND THE GRAND PRIX. Attractive Gowns Worn at the Great European Ilaces. A Checked Summer Silk on Pale Tea-Colored Ground Barred With Turquoise Blue and Scarlet— A Light Cashmere. Special Fashion Letter to The Sc-sday Call. Wfjtfl JEW YORK, July 21, 1890.— Among JXI.i the many events of the fashionable JynM season there are hardly any more important and more eagerly anticipated than the great races in the summer. In Paris it is the Grand Prix which men and women alike look forward to; while across the channel Ascot week sets hearts a-flut terlng with the hope of gain or conquest, and sends all the smart people of society out to the race-tracks. There it is that cot tages are rented, begged and borrowed, house-parties made up, and for weeks and weeks beforehand modistes and tailors are busy inventing and bringing into being the most marvelous and dashing toilets for the. important occasion. Kedfern is one of the busiest of the firms thus occupied, and his racing costumes aro as strikingly success ful as his world-famous yachting gowns, without which even royalty is unsatisfied. The first sketch gives an idea of one of these gowns, which was worn at the Ascot meeting. A < 3|Sf^^^ Ascot Gorcn. It is mainly of checked summer silk, a pale tea-colored ground, barred witli many narrow lines of dull; turquoise blue and scarlet. Across the front of the bodice, just above the bust line, thus giving a yoke effect to the tipper part, is a width of pon gee in its natural color, which is closely shirred to cover the bast and Is then drawn across and fastened in a point over the left hip. Another width la draped across just below the waist, passes under a large enamel buckle on the hip and hangs like a sash to the foot of the skirt. Tho sleeves are of the pongee, in the close coat shape, and have cuffs of the plaid silk, with rows of small buttons enameled in blue and scarlet on a silver foundation like the buckle. The other gown, which was worn Worn at the Grand Prix. Paris, at the Grand Prix do Paris, and designed by lied fern specially for one of his most swagger patrons, is a light fawn-colored cashmere witli appliqucd panels of striped satin small around the foot of the skirt. These are in bronze-brown with narrow diagonal lines of light blue and maize-color, find are bordered with a loop pattern done in gold braid. The bodice is a full vest of maize-colored China crepe, confined by a corset girdle of silk and braid; over this is an open jacket of the cashmere with braided collar and silk lapels mid cuffs. The sleeves are in melon puffs, high on the shoulder. ~ ■'.'■ IX* GEMS IN vERSE. Written for The Scndav Cam. THE MISANTHROPE. --^r EEN through the dark medium of hate, BEEN to him held nothing good or groat. l.lie to him beid nothing good or great. j^% To his wilfully self-blinded eyes aT^"' A deepest black seemed the bluest skies; Gold was copper anil diamonds wore glass; Earth's best was naught lint tinsel and brass. Love, the sanctified, the true, the pure, Did not exist, he was very sure. Not immortal nor divine the flame Which mankind called by tbat hallow'd name, But a flickering, delusive light, Like will-o'-lhe wisps that dance at night - o'er the deep morass and lonely moor. And the unwary to ruin here. Friendship was cringing hypocrisy And sycophantic servility. ■ Damon and Pythias were mythic men Who had never lived In mortal ken; Self-sacriß.ce and self-denial Were empty words that stood no trial. Tbe romanc er's and the poet's brain ' The foolish tales might still retain, But rational beings such as lie Could clearly through their Illusions see. Into holy mysteries he pried. All that was noble and pure denied; For every act of human kind Some evil motive be sure would And. In short, be held It beyond dispute That man was » most Ignoble brute: The prowling beasts of the jungle-den Were not more fierce, more cruel than men, • To tbe Idol, self, their knees were bent In adoration most reverent; . ,5 To this Moloch were their ofTrlngs made, And on his altars the first fruits laid: The earth was veiled by the mist-clouds dim Of Incense burnt In honor of him. Thus ran the one, universal creed— ' Do thou minister to thine own need; Let thy brother of himself take care, It concerns then not how be sa. li fare! Grasp I'v'rythlng that the hands can hold; ''- Life is worth living but to the bold 1 No matter what means help then ascend, '." If by prosperity blest the end, ' Only failure no pardon can win; That Is the Inexcusable sin. ; . Down with the weak! Success to the strong ! To them alone does the prize belong! - " And these call themselves, forsooth," said he, ' •' The great heirs of immortality!" ; .; i So this philosopher from his throne Passed Judgment on earth; himself alone Did he deem Infallible throughout, Nor ever harbored one little doubt s That his most acute analysts Might yet somehow, somewhere, be amiss, 1 No, though he claimed himself fo despise As well as the world, he was more wise Than his fellows who refused to see Behind the veil— the reality. , From all human sympathy estranged, • The fleeting years found him still unchanged; Ev'ry tie that doth the soul sustain He rudely loosened or rent in twain: Feeling but hatred and discontent, He was o'er his own worst punishment; In life no faith, and in death no hope, Oh, what greater curse— poor misanthrope 1 San Francisco, July, /«.'*/. _ Selha SCHMIDT. A I'RATEB. God keep all who travel to-night. By sen or by land. Father In heaven, hold them Close with thy powerful hand. Keep them. O Father, from danger, Danger by land and sea: Safe for those who love them, This la my prayer to thee. l.l! i I. Hibbabd. STREET REMINISCENCES, I bear the hum of voices, And the steady tramp of feet; I find that I am passing through A wide and crowded street. I muse o'er all tbo change I see. Each place so altered grown, And pass along in solitude . • Unnoticed aud unknown. I've been for years In foreign lands. And now but seek to trace . Amid tlie throng or human forms Home well-remembered face, lint all I see are faces new, Nor place can I behold, lv here once I would not fail to sea Some sturdy friend of old. Where now that place of choice resort, Where many went to dine — Where oft I found a genial friend With merriment and nine'? Alas! the diners meet no mure, The table d'hote has tied. And in tne place where long It stood There is a bane instead. And gone the shop so bright and gay Of the cbaroilng milliner's; Ail other shops were dull to see While she mis still in hers. Her charming bonnets all have fled, No longer there they dwell, For now, built high la greatest style, There stands ft grand hotel. Gone the shops and many a stand Attractive on the street— Kemovcd by wealth's Imposing band lias made a change complete. The streets themselves scarce now I know. So overrun with bars Tor the unknown of long ago, Tlie gliding cable-cars. And far and near the scene is bright When shades of night prevail— The lamp of oil, the light of gas, At the electric pale. The many colors are displayed, Bewilder as l gaze, And oh! I miss 'mid all the glare The light of other days. Once desert hills rich domes possess, Wttta wealth's abode displayed. While newer streets are opening still, And newer homes are made. In wide expanse the city spreads, With population vast. Hut I who find what time has changed Sigh o'er a buried past. B. L. OCR NEIGUIJOIt'S WAYS. How easy 'twould be for us to act In a much wiser way than ha. "If we were In Ids place," we say, . "How much different things would be." If w.e were In his place no weeds should grow Along the tenet: or In the grain. That troublesome gate should be Hied straightway And the bogs kept out of the lane. The house should have a new coat of paint, The stock should be better fed, And the farm Implements ou the place Should be kept under a she. l. We'd treat the neighbors socially And enjoy life as it passed. And lay by money for a rainy day, Which is apt to como at last. If we had his chances la the race, We'd let the world all know That man can live so as to be Missed when he's called logo. "If we were In bis place," there's the rub. We bad not thought that he might say That if be were In our humble sphere He'd manage things in a wiser way. His mistakes might not be ours. But It his lot our on conlil be, I fear we'd fall to accomplish mora lor the world's good than be. We are apt to estimate our powers ■ Much Higher than our neighbors do And blame our poor success la lite "To oar chances being lew.'' But if we want to know our worth. The best way li to cast Our successes and our failures up And see how they balance last. To Judge a neighbor by one's self Is hardly the fair thing to do, Because we're almost always sure "To profit by his failures," too. 9Bsta Nellie c. Davis. Lakeporl, Lake County, Oat IN A HAMMOCK. At eve, as the sun was setting, . In a molten halo of gold, I dropt me Into a hammock And dreamed of a laud oft-told. And as I lay in this tranced langour. Fair visions In varied array Presented themselves before me, 'Till mcthought 'twas sunny day. 1 1 seemed that my soul was floating . Away on leathery clouds of light. Ami my heart in Its rhythmic pulses Was happy at the sight. When lo: from out filmy ctoudland. ('aim- trooping in happy array A host of dimpled cherubs, And each lv his sportive play Brought forth In his chubby lingers A shell of pearly white, With the heart or the tint of the rosebud And all so shiny and bright. And as they trooped before me They droptfrom their pearly vasa A rose, a pink and a lily, And leaves of delicate trace. Fruits iv abundance and blossoms, And ropy strands or gold, >'uts and splay perfumes. And gems both rare and old. My eyes were filled with amazement, And I asked the name of this land Wh* re all the night seemed daylight, Ami nature lavished witn genel-r.iis. band. And they whispered to streaming " Its name Is the ' Golden State, ' " Where graceful ships come sailing •' ln.at lis • Golden Gate'— " The • Earthly Paradise.' " San Francisco, July is, lSi/it. aluaAldek, AMONG TIIK DAISIES. Out on the meadows, so sunny and broad, Millions or daisies are growing— Golden-hearted anil white as snow- Where the skylarks* nests are lying low, Meek little flowers of God, With llic warm winds over them blowing. Blossoms of purple and beautiful reds, Tall, proud Sowers of blue and gold. 'Monger the masses of daisies pale. Shine resplendent, while cloud-ships sail The azure over their heads. , To lands whose story uo man has told. But the little white daisies no envy know; Each lilts up to the glowing sun ' ltsgobten heart with a loving grace, And Its Innocent, bumble face. Each doing Its est below. Till Its bloom is withered. Its course Is done. And might we not then from the daisies try To learn this lesson, although in part — For our days Are passing so qnlckly by— , "He always sunny and pure in heart." Alameda, (HI.. July SO. ISOO. . A -.n.i it. BY THE BROOK. On to the sea ! on to the sea ! Sang the laughing brook to me; Eddied around and whirled. As a flag to the breeze unfurled; Sported awhile with glee, Then jlnkled on to the sea. . * Over the narrow fall, Over the rocks and all. Shot 'neath the willows old, Then tumbled along and rolled. With musical chime and glee, Its' winding course to the sea.' Was ever a being so bright. Was ever a voice so light, • Ever a song so thrilling, Ever a heart so lithe and gay, Ever a youth so sportive la play, - Ever a mind from care so tree, ---"-'. . As this musical brook In its path to the seat July. 1890. JOHKPH T. I'oeKTiroKNß. Fii*ltt!iif> the Moths. The moth's good time is just commenc ing. The hot weather makes him active and industrious, nnd last winter's furs and wraps, and the regular ' spring clothing scattered up and down in drawers and on pegs, afford him ample scope for work. The preparations sold at drug-stores are effective, but they smell so atrociously that they make rooms uninhabitable. Camphor and . turpentine, placing a little of each in every drawer is a simple preventive, and if a moth : can stand the combination ■it de serves > all , it < can get— St, Louis Globe- Democrat. '^k^^^^^B^LW^^m MINISTER PHELPS' FAVORITE. It Is an Oniou Tart Specially Prepared by Herr Friedrich. At the Minister's Splendid Sinners It Is the Piece da Resistance— A Poetic Trib ute in Praise Thereof. IrtT seems that the favorite native viand i of the Hon. William Walter Phelps, our _J, Minister at Berlin, is an onion tart, the savory viand which I told you about some time ago. As 1 understand, the onion tart is, property, a product of Southern Ger many, and people elsewhere affect to dis dain the delicacy— in fact, since Prussia's ascendency, those dishes which other folk have always regarded as essentially Ger man have gradually passed out of favor, writes Eugene Field to the Chicago News. The onion is now comparatively seldom met with, and he who fancies that he can get beefsteak and onions in Germany is most sadly In error. Outside of the hotels there seems to be little beef consumed, and whenever beef is served it ls cooked almost to tho dryness of a chip. Veal is the popular meat; you get it dished up everywhere and in every style. Even phy sicians commend veal as a suitable diet for Invalids. But veal in Germany is not tlie "born-and-killed-yesterday" article which is served as veal in the States; it is fairly mature meat; that which we should call veal is known as "calf's flesh," and it is pretty generally tabooed. 1 have no idea where the grazing grounds of Germany are located. I suppose I might find out if I were to buy a guide-book, but it has oc curred to me that there could not be any very extensive grazing grounds in Germany for the reason that there are no fences here nor any hedges, There are practi cally no cattle hereabouts. Cow's flesh Is considered abominable food, and there are laws prohibiting (or 1 should say regulating) its sale. And I don't wonder at it, for in Germany the cow is used as a beast of burden; hers is a hard life; she does service at the plow and iv harness. A sorry-looking beast she is. Butter, such as it is, is a costly luxury. The price of it averages all the year round about 40 cents. In this we Dud an explanation lor the German theory that butter is not whole some. . The wholesome butter— which Is to say the butter commonly served In Germany —averages auout'Jo cents a pound, and it is viler than the vilest butterine. They color it a sort of orange-yellow, and flavor it with something or other that appears to be a cross between the essence of a vanilla beau and the AIIOMA OF A COKDUKOT COAT. To return, however, to the subject of Mr. Phelps and his favorite German edible. It seems that the chef employed in Mr. Phelps' kitchen is a native of Southern Germany, and, although he was graduated from one of toe Parisian cookery-schools, he retains a hankering after and skill for the composition of those dishes which tickled hi i palate as a lad. An onion tart is Hen Friedrich's chef d'eeuvre, and Mr. Phelps is as proud of lierr Friedrich's onion tarts as lierr Friedrich himself is. At every one ol those splendid dinners with which Air. Phelps regales, delights aud astounds diplomatic and society circles at Berliu, the onion tart figures conspicu ously—is, in short, the piece de resistance. Having tasted of the viand I aju quali fied to testify to its exceeding merits, but it requires the facile eloquence of Mr. Phelps himself lo set forth in full exposition the surpassing qualities of the delicacy. "For a long lime," said Mr. Phelps to me last week, "I have been trying to in duce my friend, Whitelaw Held, to run over from Paris lor a week's visit. lie hes itates about coming because he fears that the object of his, visit might be miscon strued. "Are the Germans so chary, then, about receiving visitors from France?" I asked. "That is riot what I mean," answered Mr. Phelps. "Mr. Beid lears that if he were to come to Berlin tlio folks at home might suspect that he nnd 1 were hatching up a conspiracy involving the political cam paign at home in is: 1 -. But the truth sim ply is that what I want to get Mr. Beid here for is to initiate him Into the delights of onion tart." C oou Air. Phelps' fable in his private room iv the United Stales Legation at Ber liu there is exposed to the view of the fa vored few the following tribute to the em inent diplomate's favorite viand: THE TOEM. - Of tarts there be a thousand kinds— So versatile the art— And. as we all have different minds. Each has Ins favorite tart: Put those which most delight the rest Met m should suit me uot: The onion tart doth please me best Ach, Golt ! mem lieber Gotl ! ■ Where but In Detttschland can be found This boon or which 1 sing ? Who but a Teuton could compound This sui gt nerls thing? None with the German fran can vie I In arts cuisine, I wot, Whose sninmum bonum breeds the sigh; ••Ach, Gott: mem lieber Goltt" You slice tie fruit upon tbe dough And season to the taste. Then In an oven (not too slow) The viand should be placed; And ft ben 'lis done, v; on a plate Yon serve it piping hot— Your nostrils and your eyes dilate — Acb, Gott : mem lieber Goit ! It sweeps upon the sight and smell In overwhelming tide. And then the sense of taste, as well. Betimes is gratified; f Three noble senses drowned In bliss, 1 prithee tell me what Is there beside compares with this— Ach, l. ott I mem lieber Gott '. For, If the fruit be proper young And if the crest be good. How shall they melt upon the tongue Into a savory flood ! How seek tbe Mecca down below And linger round the spot. Entailing wees and months of woe— Ach, Gott: mem lieber Gott: If nature gives men appetites For things that wont digest, Why let them eat what so delights. And let her stand the rest! Ami though the sin involve the cost i 'I Carlsbad, like as not, "i is better to have loved and lost— Ach, Gott! mem lienor Gott! Beyond the vast, the billowy tide. Where my compatriots dwell. All kinds or victuals have I tried- All kinds of drinks, as well; Hut nothing known to Yankee art Appears to reach the spot Like this teutonic onion tart— A- b. Gott ! mem lieber Gotl ! ! So. thou -b 1 quaff or Carlsbad's tide As full as 1 can hold, ' , And for complete ie mm Inside * Plank down my horde of gold. Itemorse shall not consume my heart Nor sorrow vex my lot. For 1 have eaten onion tart— Ach, Gott! mem lieber Gott ! riTTlNij CHILDRBM TO BED. Arivlre That Every Mother Should Care- fully s'oiittlri fi*. TT" HE mother who puts the timid child CI ' to bed, and takes away the light, and c9i?^ goes downstairs and leaves him to his conjuring, careless and indifferent and dis believing, or bent on overcoming the mis chief forcibly, is destroying something that one would think of small worth to her— only his nervous fiber, but his love of her self; and the day will come when fate will have its revenge on her in his own indiffer ence to her, and she will recognize it, even it he behave is all outward respects like a dutiful son. It is her part to examine the matter, to reason with the child, to comfort him, to see how far it is possi ble with him tn subdue the fear. If she cannot stay with him herself, she can nt least leave the door open so that he may hear the cheerful downstairs voices, the hum of life, not to be shut into his tomb, as the unformulated thought of his desperate little mind manes it: she rati leave a lamn on the hearth and so let there be some light to dispel ills fancies and to keep back the dark and its uusliaped visions. Sue may regard It as trifling, but to him it is tre mendous, and if she is wise either in mother love or human kindness she will not let the Imaginative and, sensitive child suffer more than It must, remembering that that temperament, if it has more to enjoy through life than others, has also much, much more to suffer. When a few nights have failed to bring calm to the little being out of the experi ence/and the last going to bed alone is as bad as the first, and all threats bave only made the matter worse, and : all reasoning has produced no good result; when he has tried to conquer, and tbe effort bas left him trembling as violently as If Ihe had an ague— then it is something not to be overcome by harsh or rough or : peremptory measures, nnd the mother should see to it that tllis child has some active physical exercise just before going to bed that will make his little body glad of rest, and she would ■ best lie down beside him, or find some work that she can do upstairs till he falls asleep, in order Ito afford him the comfort of companionship and the sense of her embracing love, and soothe bis irritable nerves to repose instead of rousing ' them : to . action. -These nerves would never have been irritable had she not insisted on her own way too long In the be ginning, if she had given them no chance to get on lire, and then go on exciting them selves. II she had put the child to bed alone from the very outset of his career, SO that it was the natural order of things to him, and ho had had the habit estab lished of quiet sleep and absence of fear from the first, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred there would never have been any trouble of the" Sort. But If through any idiosyncrasy of the child, or any remissness of her own, the fear has come upon him, she will never in nil the years remain ing have greater love outpoured upon her than that child will give her who sees her hovering over his pillow, moving about his room, or feels her pressure on the bed be side him till the drowsy warmth steals over and wraps senses and imagination and all together, and Jets iter off again to the duties that are less imperative than care of that child's nerves, to the pleasures that are less pleasaut than the love he gives her in return.— Bazaar. LITEKAIIY AOTKS. gPay^nMßNKß'a MAGAZINE tor August Is a - Ttmfmi fiction number containing six short -esa-s|IS stories, live of them illustrated. As is •aaVaV.Q usii.il m this magazine, a number or en tirety new writers are brought forward with stories ol striking originality. Tbey show great variety o[ scene and subject, and include a news paper story, a tale Bi army lite, a Callforula story, a Name woods story, ami a New \oru Cilv story, besides Mr. Bonner's capital bur. lesque modernization of Sterne's 'iiiiiiiiiital Journey." There Is also the beginning ol l'liu Second ot the remarkable anonymous a rial, "Jerry," which brings the hero to manhood and opens his adventurous career. A abort lime ago there was considerable dis cussion in the newspapers as to which Ot Ibe various editions of Mr. .lames Pnyn's novel. " The I'liuit Million." was* the legitimate and authorized edition. Mr. .lames I'nyu bimsell seules i lit* question in a letter to the EuglUli representative of the John W. Lovell Company. He says: IMeln me "Critic" that it Is stated by Messrs. Harper tlsir tliev sent me a check f^r "Tlie Isurur .Million." They have omitted to add that I returned it. '1 bo world is not yet so happily managed that an author cau get paid twice over lor the same work. -Jam its Pay***. This statement from Mr. Payn himself will doubtless remove whatever erroneous Impres sion may have ariscu in the minds of some as to Uie rlgbt of the John W. Lovell Company to issue the book bearing I lie legend so hi lei esllug to the author, "published by arrangement." Dauuet's "f'oit Taraseon: the Lust Adven* tuies of the Illustrious Tin ln," continues lv be one of the leading inunctions In Harper's Ma gazine. Tbo third Installment of tins "largely. hugely laughable taie," which will appear in the August number, Introduces us to tli • Taraseon lan colonists in Hietr new homes; and we are treated lo au account ot their occupations and amusement., their trials during the rainy season, their entities and combats wild tlio natives ill all ol which Tariarin. the illustrious Governor, appears as tbe central and dominant ligiiie. Numerous Illustrations from drawings by Rossi, isij'ibacb, Montegut and Mouleuatd con untie to add lo i lie uiteic-i and attractive ness ol the story. Perhaps the most extraordinary article ever published upon " Hypnotism" will appear in the "Cosmopolitan Magazine*' for Auitust. It was secured Irom one of the two most celebrued prolessors of ibe weird air, the Frenchman Do iiiilo, and the lllusliations were seemed by hav ing a number ol subjects taken to the ptioio graph gallery ol Mr. Kuilz in New York and theie hypnotized under the camera of Donate himself. The illustrations show very fairly ihe frightful powers which the bypuottser exerts, and me whole article makes plain a subject which Is exciting much attention all over ihe world at tins time. For midsummer reading the August "Ladies' Home Journal" is like a cimlina breeze. All me stoi les savoi of the sea aud country, and Julian Hawthorne, Maud Howe, Louise Chandler .Monl lon. Kale Upson (laiK, Jenny June, Dr. Tai mage, all vi.- with each oilier in story, poem and article. The article uu ''Promiscuous Bathing," lor Kills, is specially timely. The hie of the fashionables, at Newport Is delightfully told tv an article. Dr. mintage tells bow lie preached his nisi sermon, while ten ol our most famous women try lo answer Ibe question, "Whlcn is Ihe happiest hour in a woman's life?" "Jleizeiolt, Shoe-maker," lias been published by T. V. CTowell & Co. of New York. This is Ihe work of Katharine Pearson Woods, a wilier of considerable fame aud author of "Scenes from Clerical Life." In her ucwwoik the au thor has blended the grace of romauc* with Ibe stem features of icality. Of tins bookEd ward Bellamy recently wmie: "I have read it with great luleiesl, and have done ail In my Power to commend It to my fellow .Nationalists as a most admirable pinuiiclioii, and highly valu able lor our educational propaganda." The " Seven Modern Eugineeriiu; Wonders of Uie World," described by Ailhur V. Abbott, with' elaborate Illustrations, In Ibe Aucusi number of "Frank Leslie's Popular Monthly" are: The new I'm Hi ldge. Scotland; the Eillel Tower, Farts; Ihe new l.roloii Aqueduct, .New York; the blowing up ol the Hell (lite obstructions, Mew York; the Lads Jetties at the mouth ol tun Mississippi; Ihe St. Uuthard Tunnel. Switzer land, ami ilie liiooklyu or East ldvei Brlttg ■. The August number of "The Forum" will con lain a leinaikable. essay by Prince I. Kr.iimtKiu, ou "The Possibilities ol Agriculture." Hollas made a thorough Investigation o! the fabulous results of the scientific cultivation ol land iv the most densely populated portions of Europe, and be -hows the ease with which me number ot acies now cultivated in the civilized parts ol lh» woild can be made lo yield sustenance tor many limes the number of people now alive. Lee & bbeuard of Huston have just l.«sual a neat-boiiud volume, eniilled ".Edward Kurtuil," by Henry Wood. lie author of "Natural Laws of the business World." ''Edward loll" is .1 work ol licllon, written by one who believes 111 the whoiesomruess of Idealism and optlinism, and I: is not construcied upon eooveDtioual, realistic lines. It Is devoted to Idealization of cbaracier, and ls woili) a careful perusal. •' Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper " for the week ending July l'Jih contains an able ar ticle from Hon. Henry Watterson on toe political Situation fiom a Democratic point of view. Mr. Watteisou criticizes uolicy of the Republicans In Congress, and his article will be sure to at tract a great deal of attention. I his number also illustrates the State Mlli.aiy Camp at Peek skill. A review by Colonel A. G. Bracken, I. S. A., ot the "Untied states Cavalry, Past and Pres ent," a translation from the French by Lieuten ant John J. Bierelou of an article on "The ■ bi uese Army," and Captain Charles Hint's ••Trials of Staff Officers," are among I lie many Interesting art Ides presented in the August num ber of " Culled Service." H. C. Bunner, author of "The Midge" ami "Airs From Atcady," has wrltteu for the nellou number (August) of "Scribner's" a sketch in the style of Sterne's "Seutitneniiil Journey," in which the famous satirist aud wit visits modern New Yoik and comments on "The Vestibule Train," "The Opera Comlque," and has au ad venture in a studio. The Almost number of the "Forum" will con tain an essay on "The Decollete in Modern Life," by Elizabeth Stuart Phelps, which is ■ [cxi from which the writer argues an alarming decay In delicacy lv American society; aud she traces the effects of ibis decay in our art, In our literature. In politics, and throughout the whole range of American activity. '• The Speaker's Error." by X. M. C, one of the leading articles in tbe July number or the " North American Review," was ordered pi luted In the "Congressional Record" a* part of the reg ular business of the Mouse ot Representatives on the 11 Hi. This Is ihe first lime In the history of Congress such a distinction has been accorded to auy periodical. Tbe "Critic" of July 101b contain* the Dames of the nine "Immortals" recently chosen by tbe surviving members of the "American Academy" elected by Us readers In 1881 to succeed the Academicians deceased since that dale. Witn the curreut volume (July-December) the paper will complete Its tenth year. The Bedford Company of New York announces the publication of "A "Sentimental Journey," by Laurence Sterne, "Bel Ami," by tiuy de Mau passant, "The Days of My Youth," by Kate Kearney, "How a Husband Forgave," by Edgar law cell, and "A l'aiisiau Pair," by Ciiulsly, a French writer. In " Wide Awake" for August juvenile read ers are treated to a great variety of articles th t are calculated to please as well as Instruct. Tbey are on almost every subject from a fairy lale to sketches of travel. The leading article Is " Prin cess liosetta aud ibe Pop-corn Man." Klchard Harding Davis, the sod of Ihe editor of Ilie Philadelphia Inquirer and of Mrs. Rebecca din-.' Davis, the novelist, has written a news paper story which will appear la the Augus (action) number of "Scrlbner's." The Baker & Taylor Company of New Yorl announce tbe early publication of a new Km son book, entitled, " Talks With Ralph YVald Kinerson." This book Is largely addressed I tbe youth of Ibis country. "Following the lluidon" is tbe title of anew v lime of army and froutier ieininlscen*es, 1 Mrs. Elizabeth Custer, soon to be published Messrs. Harper & others. . The leading article In the August number Ihe "Domestic Monthly," published In Nt York, is a finely illustrated and interesting « on Chautauqua. j '•The Cosmopolitan Magazine" offers th l prizes ot S2OO each for best drawings and sp mentions lor public oaths and a public laundr The census returns show the population Untie, Mont., to be 22.000. A Skin of Beauty is a Joy rover. DR. T. FELIX OtlbllAt.ll'S ©Oriental Cream, or Magical Beautifle —a J WTSR-S- Removes Tan. Pun f-r'CZ %,— afiaaaX^aaaV Freckles. Moth - Fat< K< „ "•§ BaasasacFM ** a "'' and Skl,i ' h "' *--;-= — SHs^'^& *nd every ble. mis I •aid ti^alaoyo^nt^rti^rroiita ratient): "At .-, « ladies xcill use them, Irecomm.n* •l^ooraiirf'-* 0 ■■ . ■• at the. least harmful of all ski. preparation*." ■ 0 bottle will last six months, oslmt « every day. Poudre Subtile removes superfluous hair wl'..* * Injury to skin. - " ' FF;RO T. HOPKINS, 37 Great Jones st, For sale by all Druitfls" and Fancy Moods Di ..i s throughout the V. St. Canadas and Europe. «- Beware of Base imitations. *1000 Be-n.l > •or arrest and proof of any one soiling the sur - mr3o SaMo 6p ly ROADWAY'} PILLS, M An excellent and mild < :it liartlc. Purely Teirotable. Taken according tn direction* restore health and renew vitality. Price . 800 a Box. Sold by all driig-r.'sts. - sel ly Su'g