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DuffGordon's New Winter Designs
New Tendencies of Fashion. By Lady Duff-Gorcfcn
"tvyTHAT aro the newest tendencies In tho Winter
. fashions? Nover have there been so few
changes In the general trend of the fashions
as at this season. Tho gowns themsolvos remain prac
tically the samo; tho nowost tendencies are shown In
tho little touches tho way a girdle Is draped, tho way
a nock Is flnlshod, tho way a scarf Is adjusted.
In very truth, this year It Is tho little touches that
count I can soo very little chango In the hats. Tho
Bhapos nre practically tho samo as last year, but tho
trimming is docldedly different.
For instance, I havo croatod a butterfly hat that is
absolutely novol. Tho hat is a wido-brlmmod, low-
"THE ADORER OF BEAUTY," an Afternoon
Costume of Green Velvet Trimmed with Skunk
Fur to Match the "Pipe" Muff. Thla Costume
Shows the New Length Coat and One of My New
GRAi' vt-LVET RECEPTION GOWN (on the left), lKKI UlfllH
Exemplifying the Newest Draped Effect Gray Fox fur MiT ' 4S&T Jt m9HHjbV
Used on Hem and as Cuffs -to Match th'e Large Muff. SfSfT' $1 4 f ' Wfl&BBEBM
Small Ha with Cockade In Two Shades of Gray. MaVoY lis TOOIbHSPH
THE "ALLTOGETHER" COSTUME (on the riflbt), of fWMrJ, $ 3 wffl&SS&M
White Satin Charmeuse, with Extremely Lona Skirt nd ' lSSl.A - tffi . TEWwtflZWM t
ths Latest Cutaway Coat of Black Satin.
crowned affair of brown silk plush. On the very Up ot
tho brim, just as though resting tor n moment. Is a
golden brown butterfly, with its large wings opened
just a trifle.
This typifies tho now hat decoration. Tho top of the
hat Is loft unadorned all tho trimming Is either on the
tip edge of tho brim or underneath it ,
It is no unusual thing to soo a hat with a wholo bird
of paradise underneath the brim or a spreading osproy
foatber. Than I havo used plastrons ot roses In this
way. When feathers are put, under the brim In thla
way tho ends either stand' out beyond tho edge or curl
down backward over the ear.
Tho smart women of Pnrls have adopted the small
velour hat that was Introduced last Winter for tho mas
culine soz and for small chlldron. Thla Winter the
mondalnes have seized upon it and invariably wear it
with their morning tailored costumos.
And the newest" aklrtsT Skirts, like tho hats, show
few changes. Thoy nro narrower than over, and that
Is tho most that can be Bald. In tailored costumes,
whoro tho skirts aro short, thoy aro not more than a
yard and a half around tho hem. They aro no longer
gored. Gored skirts aro absolutely out.
Tho newest sklrtB aro cut In two pieces. A narrow
circular front and a back of tho same width. Thoso two
pieces are Joined on the hips over an Inset ,of tho same
matorlal or of Bomo different fabric For Instance, a
blue sorgo skirt will havo side Insets of blue brocade,
bluo volvet or bluo corded silk, matching exactly tho
sorgo, of course. ' .
A now Idea that has captivated many of tho mon
tlalnos who aro dovoted to short skirts Is tho bunched
fulness Just above tho ankles at tho back. This 'fulness
does not mako tho skirt any fullor at tho hem, as It Is
laid In two pleats or foldB on tho sldo.
CoatB aro longor, slightly fuller below, tho hips and
very plain. Buttons of cloth rather than the fancy but
tons of last yoar are the smartest this Boaoon.
Tho ono bit ot decoration that can bo used with lm-
punlty this Winter Is a touch of brocade. Brocade col-
lars and cuffs havo displaced the elaborate braiding.
Nover before has soverlty been so absolutely vital
In tailored costumes. Parisians ot tne Bmart world
have practically adoptod a morning uniform, so plain
aro their clothes.
But what a contrast is presented in their ovonlng
gowns and "at homo" costumes! Over-elaboration is
tho tendency in those costumes, and the one-color cos
tume la absolutely out. Eight or ten color tonos are
frequently used in ono evonlng gown.
Every ago Is represented in theso smart costumes
for formal affairs. Wo havo robbed tho Orient, wo havo
takon ideas from tho days of Pharaoh, ot Cleopatra and
evon ot Eve.
With tho over-elaboration of decoration has como a
craze for transparency tbat is startling, ovon In Paris.
But tho Parisian woman of fashion ana social standing
wears her transparencies only in hor own home.' Bho
nover wears thorn when sho Is herself a guost, and sho
nover wears them In public places.
Girdles were nover so elaborate, and scarves are a
necessary par.t of ovory formal costume. The present
scarf does double duty. It frequently forma the girdle,
or perhaps, drapod over tho left shoulder, forma a
Muffs aro largor and very elaborate. Thoy aro made
ot brocade, of volvet and of chiffon, with bands of fur,
and when brocade Is uBod the hat must match. Tho
volvet and brocade muffs are shirred In five or six sec
tions. The muffs aro now in Bhapo. Thoy are practi
cally plpo shape. Tho pipe that Is usod for tho carry
ing of water and goal Thoy aro long and round. Tho
drapod muff and tho muff that Is wider than it Is long
no more find favor with tho mondalnos.
Tho keynote of beauty la, absoluto simplicity.
Whothor In houso docoration or fominlne fashions, I
believe that abBoluto simplicity should rule. Person
ally, I think that it 1b within every woman's power to
mako herself beautiful. And not by means ot paint
and powder, but by her clothos. To bo chic, to bo
exquisitely gowned and groomed Is to be beautiful.
Manners may mako tho man, but dress makes the woman. The
woman of plain features can mako horself beautiful It sho chooses her
gowns with an eye to hor defects as well as to her good points.
No woman who dooa not know her defects can dress herself as I
think she should. Tho woman who does not realize that her left shoul
der Is a bit higher than her right la hopeless. Tho woman who does not
realizo that hor pale bluo oyos can be darkened by the colors she wears
is equally bopolosB.
I do wish tbat I could Impress on all women that clothes mean more
than anything else to them. Women of acknowledged beauty havo been
called "homely" when it was their clothos that were homely and not
their faces. Beauty and smartness are twin sisters.
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cf High Rank. Trie Unllned Wrap of Gold Chlffea
Is One of My Latest Models.
could also wear it The overdress Is of sheer, coarse-meshed black net
embroidered with roses ot many snadea. 1 am particularly pleased with
the Bcarf on this gown. It is draped so as to form the left sleeve, Tiny
roses in garlands give a charming touch to this frock.
The Latest Creations.
IN tho fashions that I am discussing this week are many and varied
models. In the picture at the extreme loft corner is my Ideal street
costume, the "Curate." The Curate Is my exclusive creation; it is
suitable for all ages ot womon tho debutante, tho bride and the matron.
Thla model Is built of bluo serge. The skirt is one ot the two-piece affairs
that aro fastened over on side pieces on each hip. In the Curate the hip
pieces must be ot the material that the skirt is made of.
The long soml-close coat Is absolutely plain, tho only true femlnlno
touch Is given by the high collar and lace tie. The many buttons are cov
ered with tho cloth. The hat is ono ot those small velour affairs that
Paris Is Just wild about this season.
In the next "picture Is the gown I call the "Adorer of Beauty." The
skirt Is one of my new one-piece models, and the coat, as you will notice,
is longer than those we wore last Winter. Skunk fur is used on the coat
and also on tho small bat. The bunch qt tiny roses on tho tip ot the
brim Is one of the now ideas in trimming.
Next, I am showing; you two afternoon gowns that aro very chic. The
gray velvet and fox costume shows to great advantage the newest draped
effect. A gray and silver brocade waistcoat Is a distinctive feature ot
the bodlco. The gray find white fox muff is the lateet shape and size.
A contrast is given by the gown on the seated figure. This I call an "All
Together" costume. I call It by this name because it is a costume that
is all together. Tho gown Is of white satin charmeuse and the cutaway
coat of black velvet has a waUtcoat ot the satin.
The large figure on the right ot tho page Is .wearing the "Wine ot
Love" evening gown. This Is an elaborate costume ot gold chiffons and
spangled green net It la very transparent, for there is no lining under
neath the net skirt. The wrap of the gold chiffon is unllned and is
trimmed with Bkunk fur. Notice- the novel arrangement of the scarf. It
hangs from tho left Bhoulder In a manner especially Turkish.
My "Mascot" Is suitable for a dobutante, but a woman ot any age