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The Omaha-Sunday Bee Magazine Page
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Copyright 1913. by the Btnr Company. Great Britain nights Reserve.
costume ot Hian
By the Train
and the Close
Fitting Cap with
"Purplo Shadows," Elaborate Evening Costume for Young Matron,
Created in White Satin Charmcuse and Orchid Net Tunic,
Embroidered in Shades of Deep Rose and Purple.
By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile")
THIS week It is a pleasure to
bo able to show you threo
distinctive evening cos
tumes, cno for tho debutante, ono
for her married sister and ono for
her stately mother. Each ono Is
perfect In Its way, and I am of tho
opinion they ar3 among my most
delightful creations. In tho doublo
plcturo you1 will see tho older
matron as tho foremost figure. Tho
lines of this black velvet costumo
are simply Ideal for tho woman
who Is past her first youth. Any
girl would bo. .only too happy to
havo her mother wear such a cos
tume.' I adoro designing black vel
vet costumes. To my mind thoro
u"s no fabric so perfect for any
woman over twenty-five.
In this design you will observe
that the entire gown is of tho vel
vet. The Bkirt is delightfully
draped at the aides- Tho now long
lino is given by the train that Is
fastened at the top ot the bodlco a
llttlo to tho left of the centre back.
This train la very long and is a
feature of many of tho newest
opora gowns. It is, in this instance,
lined with rich rose red satin. The
tiny sleeves are of crystal net. Tho
decoration across the front is dup
. Heated In tho back. It la a mag
nificent motif of crystals and largo
garnets, cut flat. The hand ex
tending from the left shoulder to
tho right aide Is of rose red velvet
Tho cap .head-dress Is of rare
Persian embroidery with an orna
ment of crystals and garnets match
ing tho bodice decoration. The
ospreya are whlto and black. 1b It
any wonder that I call this "La
The flguro In the background Is
"MY wlfe-" Ba,- young Benedict
"Is so exceedingly nervous at
nJght that she scarcely sleeps at all."
"Burglars?" asked an old married
"Woll, you have to expect that. My
wire was like that. Every tlmo she
heard a nolso downstairs ahe'd rout
me out and send me down to Investi
gate. After a time, however, I con
vinced her that If a burglar did get
Into ilit) house ho wouldn't make any
noise ut all."
'That's rather goodl" exclaimed .e
j'ng one. "Jll try that."
"Don't do it," pleaded the other; "for
It your wife's anything like mine shell
worry every time she doesn't hear a
that ot the young matron. 1 call
this my purplo shadow gown. The
lines of this aro particularly grace
ful for a young married woman,
who must portray Just a bit of dig
nity without resigning her girl
hood entlroly. I think that I have
caught just the spirit hore. The
under-robe is' of whlto satin, eupplo
and lustrous. It barely touches the
floor In the back. The deep em
broidered band la a delightful grape
design In shades of purple and
deep rose that Just vergea on the
purplo. In the front the grapea are
marvellously natural. The tiny
tunic Is moro like an apron than
anything else. It is of orchid net,
edged with a band of amethysts.
Tho bodlco shows the matronly
touch. It Is a deep rose satin af-
"Spring Flowers," Charming Costume for Debutante, Created
in White Charmeuse Satin and Crystal Net. New Soft
Girdle of Pale Pink Satin.
Lady Duff' Gordon Describes Three Distinctive
Costumes for the Three Ages of Women"
Spring, Summer and Autumn
fair, toned down with tho orchid
not. In her hnlr this older sister
woara a wreath of purplo grapes.
;n "Spring Flowors" 1 have
shown my ldoal young girl's gown.
It Is slmplo In lino and design and
fairly brcathos tho spirit of youth.
Over tho whlto satin slip Is a
charming short tunic of crystal not.
Around tho o(1ro of tho tunic Is n
band of palo pink satin forming a
background for tho crystal band.
Tho bodlco Is almost entlroly of
tho crystal not. Tho straight line
across tho bust Is vory novel and
Is bocomlng to tho average girlish
figure. It Is too trying a lino for a
plump flguro. Tho folded glrdlo
with tho now tassel end on tho
left sldq in of tho pink satin.
Careful study will show that the
designs and linos of those throo
costumes differ widely; thoy nro
Individual, but Uioro Is no hint of
frcaklshnesB In them. Hut this Is
enough of frivolous costumes. I
want to talk about othor things.
Sometimes I wonder it I shall
over get tired of arranging now
schemes for bluo sorgothat most
simple and serviceable fabric,
which, whon rightly mado and
worn, can bo so entlroly and dis
tinctively smart. And I havo como
to tho conclusion that I shall bo
faithful to my favorite to tho end,
for I scorn, this soason, to havo
dovoted more of my attention and
my designs to sorvo than ovor, and
this notwithstanding that never bo-
4A 75 "
i f. .t, i
fore, perhaps, has It had qulto so
many formldnblo and fashlonablo
rivals In tho way of materials of
exquisite and unusual tono and
In fact, this Winter of 1912 is
going to bo rod-lettormnrked in tho
annals of clothes for its posltlvo
marvols In tho way of rich fabrics.
But, at the Bamo tlmo. it will
further proclaim tho contlnuod su
premacy of bluo sorgo, and for this
fact aud fashion I am proud to
think that I may consider mysolf
to a certain extent rosponBlblo.
For I would wish and always
ndvlso ovory woman to Includo at
least two bluo sorgo models In her
outfit alllto for Autumn, Winter
and Spring and then, ns one or
tho othor ot these can probably,
and oven certainly, bo worn at somo
tlmo or tho othor during tho Sum
mer, 8ho will bo sorgo-clad and
smart all tho year round.
Ono such modol will, of course,
tako coat and skirt form, and, for
prefcronco, will bo of that "Curato"
stylo whoso simplicity Is so su
premely and universally becoming
that, year In nnd yoar out, I go" on
making It for nil my clients and.
Incidentally, wearing it mysolf.
For it ropresonts tho very gospol
of my creed of slothes, and, by
thuB practising what I proaoh, I
must provo to ovory qno tho dopth
and sincerity ot my bellofs,
Tho next necosslty 1b a ono-plecn
sorgo dress, which shall bo slmplo
No. 208 Brittle Hair, Baldness and the First Gray Locks
By Mmc. Una Cavalieri.
THIS iB tho .season ot brlttlo
hair. A month or two ago
wna vho time ot falling hair,
a time that may havo boon extended
in somo cases, and all seasons, alaB,
are tho time ot fading, whitening
What shall bo dono for all theso
scalp allmentB7 Wo Bhould first
ascertain tho cause, then romovo or
corroct it. Hair growo brlttlo
usually In tho Winter. Tho cnuao
Is that tho cold drlos tho oil, and
tho hair, deprived ot tho nourish
ment by that oil, grown dry nnd
breaks. Brokon hair not only
glvos tho head a frowsy, unkempt
nppearanco, but tho hair that la
broken generally dloB.
For brokon hair, massage with
this preparation Is a good remedy:
Beef marrow, 150 grams.
Balsam'of Peru, 60 grama.
Oil of sweet almonds, 40 grama.
Alcoholic extract of cantharldes,
Alcohol (30 per cent), 4 grams.
Brokon hair Bhould bo shampooed
with tho following'
Filtered water, 700 grams.
Castile soap (shaved), 350 grams.
Bicarbonate of soda, 200 grams.
Falling hair, most troublesomo In
tho Autumn, bocnuse the dust ot
tho Summer has usually deposited a
microbe which causes tho root to
shrink and the hair to fall out, may
bo treated in various ways. It were
better to prevent Its falling by ap
plying during the summor, when the
danger Is greatest, strong black tea
mixed 'with half the quantity of
alcohol. Apply this every other
night before retiring. After rub
bing It well Into the scalp, soften
the harsh treatment by rubbing Into
the scalp castor oil or arnica oil,
If you permit dandruff to form on
tho acalp in unduo quantities tho
hair la sure to fall, for tho Jandruff,
duat-llkc, fills and chokes tho
pores. Stop Its formation by first
massaging, then brushing tho scalp
to remove the scales, then washing
it with a weak decoction ot Panama
wood. After the shampoo rub Into
tho (tcalp a. Halve mado ot
Lanolin, 30 grams.
Borax, 3 grams.
Oil of birch, 3 grams.
Oil of sandal, 12 drops.
This salvo la also a dandruff de
stroyer: Beef of marrow, 25 grams.
Castor oil, 15 grams.
Pulverized sulphur, 1 gram.
Oil of bergamot or other, 5 drops.
Theso are also highly 'recom
mended drandruff cures:
Boiling water, pint.
Borax, 1 tablespoonful.
Wash the scalp with tho resulting
Distilled water of sweet clover, 25
Eau de cologne, 3 grams.
Bicarbonate of soda, 3 grams.
Saponlne, 1 gram.
Part th- hair many times and In
many directions and apply with a
This la a valuable tonlo for tho
acalp that has grown dry, a state
and ensy enough for wear during
tho next month or two bonoath a
long fur coat and at the somo tlmo
well worthy of full display when
this coat Is laid aside In restau
rant or theatre Stir, ngnlM, It must
bo ot such "advanco" stylo that It
will bo ready and able to provo Us
possessor up to dato In tho early
days of Spring, whon It shall Juot
bo completed by fur stole nnd
muff. Aud all this I havo, I think,
secured for you In n certain vory
favorite now modol, whoro tho dark
bluo coating scrgo Is bordered at
tho skirt hem with a band of black
Ottoman silk, this in its turn be
ing bound with black braid, whoso
ribbed patterning Imitates the tex
turo of tho Bilk. Tho skirt Is qulto
narrow nnd strntghtly hanging, but,
to tnnko It Immediately and no
ticeably different from tho merely
ordinary straight nnd scanty skirt,
which you can sco every day In Its
hundreds, I havo Introduced, low
down at tho left side, a queer lit
tlo drapery, whoso slight fulness is
caught into tho sldo scam just
nbovo tho closely encircling band
of Bilk. Thero aro straps of tho
braid, too, ' Carried down from tho
waist lino nt olthor Bide and' end
ing with llttlo pockot flaps whoro
tho, openwork dovlco of tho braid
shows tho soft, nnttlor bluo ot tho
velvdt beneath, ono dull gold but
ton being sot In tho centre to em
phasize 'and complete a color con
trast which I always love. At the
Mme. Lina Cavalieri, the
that will certainly causo falling
Beef marrow, 180 grams.
OI of sweet almonds, 100 grams,
Thick oil of nutmeg, 120 grams.
Alcohol (30 per cent.) 30 grams.
Oil of cloves, 15 grams.
OH of lavender, 15 grams.
Oil of thyme, 15 grams.
Oil of sage, 16 jrams.
OH of rosemary, 15 grams.
Oil of peppermint, 15 grams.
Camphor, 3 grams,
Balsam of tolu, 12 grama.
Math the marrow nnd nix It with
the oil of nutmeg. Let the balsam
dissolve In t!e alcohol and add the
ols and camphor. Blend the mar
row and oil of nutmeg by heating
them. Pass this mixture through a
cloth. Let It cool, then mix with
the alcoholic mixture.
Two remedies for falllns hair are
those, used respectively by Spanish
and English womon:
Make a mild decoction of cocoa
bark by letting one teaspoonful of
cocoa bark dissolve In a pint of boil
Rub well Into the scalp.
Make a decoction of rosemary
leaves from 1 pint water and 1
heaping handful cf rosemary leaves.
After bringing It to a boll, let it
stand In a stone Jar for six hours.
Orop Into It bicarbonate of soda
the slzo of a hickory nut Dampen
the hair with this every night
waist and almost &t the natural
waist lino thoro Is a vory beauti
ful belt, formed ot nltcrnnto square
medallions of tho bluo velvet and
black braid, and a chnln-work do
vlco of little dull gold circlets
sown with soft bluo and black Bilk,
tho Anal medallion In front bolng
flnlshed off with long Btrands of the
narrow sllkon braid, which aro all
caught together eventually In a
woo flowcr-llko cup ot bluo volvet
Lines ot braiding cross tho Ghoul
dor nnd end tholr career In llttlo
gold-buttoned motifs, with just a,
peep and a piping of bluo vol
vot to follow their protty pointed
outline and then fur down on tho
arm (this low shoulder lino la so
becoming, you will find) tho tight,
long alcoves of black Ottoman silk
aro sot into tho serge with a bind
ing ot braid, while at tho wnlst
they nro finished off with braiding
and gold buttons and a frill ot
whlto embroidered unmlln. A turn
down collar ot this same dainty
muslin forms a deep V-shapccl
opening nt tho neck nnd fastens
with soft bow loops, this being an
addition to a llttlo pearl-buttoned
gllot of whlto lawn, nnd tho sorgo
benoath, bolng in Its turn provided
with a roll collar of nattier bluo
velvet which eventually morgos
Into tho black Ottom n silk. Add
threo gold buttons for tho faston
jng of tho bodlco nt tho left side,
and hero you have, complote. my
ideal bluo serge dress.
Most Famous Living Beauty.
I KNOW somo day It will all conn
You, :n your place I, In mine.
That somehow, through a rift In tin
Tho Summor nun will shine.
That roses '11 bloom where the
thorns are now
That the day Will rcplaco tho night,
Voiv In your place, I. In mine,
Homo day It wilt all como right
I know somehow It will nil corns
Your Ufa there, and my life here.
Tliut, somo day, the stony path will
Tim smile wipe away the tear.
Juno's red rose for December snows
Bo lot us ho patient dear,
I know somehow It will all come
Your life thoro, unci my life here.
Uotl, Home day may It all como right,
llu In his place. 1 In ;nlnc
May the sky above him be over blue.
May your glory ovor shine:
For. If his pathway be smooth for hla
And his soul keep strong and Hne.
p God. that way it will all be right
For him In his place, and me In mine.