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8 GOODWIN'S' WEEKLY 1
H . . ' rTh& figure treatment of the coming season wlU; reveal.. an$:'emphasIzo
1 kfye beautiful curves" of "the natural kbodyi The (utiUpmont Straight XlgurouUnNJa: "
WM fprSvaU" tsnn .Absolute contradiction of the real f.act; befdautfd what natural
B ifigure Is really straight? On the oontrary. It is'thiS'ourVinrflufe'Ulia'nh.'ur
B al and "beautiful-line's of the body, which is retained and1 expressed" in the
H ( f', It tht'trci5ht'Vt.lsjj'ea, to IknttSfc ' thTr.'hkQWaV lirio", .tn,-toftitfttx
H :tl JI 6dn tl 0 iti nf 1 y tUminlfihcid JvlfrnrfSuTofit -tt Wel?6" lrtr5he"d
H 'itn't-io'Qkf oL. thA.Tfrgtft'e' "TStireoted. according' to' tiie ' decadent 'standard "of- ten
years agbV'tiie presont figure IS '.'straight," 'bub- lt!isistrrtlght"8nly in that B
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Since' the departuro from the "wasp?.' waist Very 'mirriyjS forward steps B
in' corseting have been taken. Unfortunately,.- most of the devices, pre-
vlously employed by the corsetiore havo been for the giving of a wholly un- B
natural line. Now the work is to bo directed toward maintaining the natural, B
bqautlfiirilnesoflhe body. ' "" ! .,.... I
.The pronounced movement Mn skirt draperies, , however, is the lifting 1
' -of tho'fu'lness'ln the, front' TDHis drapfery accords perfectly with, the eastern i ft.
Idoa, ami" It gives a hew figure line as well,- as the effect is"to -hoightert tho ; ft
abdomen and. depress" the diaphragm, giving the bowllke .curve -ndw dominant j ft
i -. ..-.-j..-" l ,-m . .: . ...v i .:...... ! m
in the fashionable figure. .-.. . ' i ft
In all. .of the new "draped effects the skirt Is close about the -feet,- and' ' ft
tho .fullness spre'adsoust below the curve of tho hips, giving. another bow- M
? like curvo to tho figure.. This is very characteristic-of the' season's,, form, ( ft
I and this figure outlining Will bo obtained lil'every. possible way. - " ; H
Thls.JsJci oomplbto "departure from tho' figure lines that have heretofore B
, prevailed,, and is a .djgressiop. both from the panier of .the artificial modes '. V
. and from the drttperyiafTihV oriental or classic form.' ' '' . 1
' -All; tho narrowness of 'the. skirt has beon retained , at the hem, arid yo 1
fullness' has -boon -'put. In at abovt midway its length.- This'fullnoss is oftpn i
let in- in the form of- hoodlike -or-loop draperies hanging from, the belt. . , ,
Such "a" thing as a"' dart for fitting a skirt 'is' pract"lcally unknown. ,If
- the matoriur cannot' be adjusted "to the belt through tlie dropping down of a
; part of the, fabric f ullnoss, it is laid in irregular plaits or gathered, but quite
without regard to any -hitherto existing rule In skirt fitting.
: As for tho :bodice, quite as many new and extraordinary ideas prevail
as in tho skirt. The jackets of tho day and coats of tho day also come in
for their share of eccentricity In cut. They defy all rules, having seams where
seams are least expected to be and having no seam where heretofore one
was seen.
In some of tho nowost bodices and coats the under arm seam no longer
exists. . The shaping, if any is done, is in the shoulder seam or through the
application of a curving yoke which extends down to form tho top of tho
sloove. The basques of the coat, cut in most interesting now ways, are at
tached to the seamless body, n contradistinction to tho kimono ,cut of tho
ordinary form, which has no shoulder seam nor under arm seam, likewise
no nrmholo seam, the new bodice now has no under arm acam, but has an.
armhole and a shoulder seam.
Another vital point in designs Is the bulging or thick nook collar applied
to so many of the bodices and coats. This is an effect taken wholly from.'
the dress of the east, which, as will be readily recalled,- is finished- at the
neck with a straight, curveless piece which rolls or bulges at will across -tho
back of the nock, there being no attempt at fitting. This is just what is be
ing attempted In the fashionable neck finish of the day. "'-
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Sleeves, generally speaking, will bo long that Is, tho fashionable 'offoot
for general street wear Is tho long sloove. Separate waists as well-'as-'costumes
of tho simpler charactor will have full length sloovos, but there also
will be very many of the more drossy gowns with long sleeves.
, , Tho kimono form has beon retained to a very considerable oxtent, but
. lt.ls the. kimono sot on the dropping or oxtonded shotildor'and brought down
. into. fittod form. ' " --.
. There .are a hundred variations of this style of sleove, some of which are
straight .hanging, othors flaring and open,' and still others in the bell shape.
Designers; will, bo 'allow,ed much leeway in 'sleeves, and it looks" very much. '
as if thoro .would be a strong representation of fancy stylos".
. To describe In detail tho various forms would bo difficult, but a glance
at. tho forms shown In the garments Imported for illustrating this spring's
fashions affords conclusive evidence of tho sloove variation that will be found
in forthcoming fashions.
Tho Paris market shows considerable variation in suit 'coat lengths.
Sovoral of the Important houses, notably Paquln and Chorult, are ompha
: sizing tho long'jaokote
Most significant) howovor, is- the faot that Callot, who, as- ovorybody
' knows.-is-'a great loador, sfrowsomany veay short coats of Jljo bolero or short
blouse' stylo. Thus-it Is evident that Paris, makers have no intention of con-
fining thomsolvos specifically to one length. -
- However- for- the -general-line of morchandjso the rocommondatipns that
have boon made by the loading factors in the Amorjcan garment. trade aro
absolutely corrbct. -..,.,,
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- Coats, of twdnty-slx ' and twpnty-seyon, Inoh' lengths will make up tha
bulk of .linos, whilo.-rtO.VQlty,.offaotsjvillrlur'r t)"6tff kndWJer, andldnrf'- '
- Ar point ;to..bo-takort.4ntQ. ponsidera'liri in the present1 so'a'soii'H" sh'Swlng-
Is tho-,dqvojbpmonitowardvaielted ooat a"ri frlotfso effect's.'" Thisl? slfouidhavo l
Eop'resentatlon' ''among' hovolfcyistylos; Jmaivhlle" tntf b"6ltod or Bl6ttsSwcoat
' perhaps does not eem-so desirable -ah arttclaf j
ik rsbmb-reason to owpoot there .may bei&$fof(' tQ ,
bolted' and'bl6usQ-coatstfor the coming "Auturrfh. -: l- r '"' '
" bJiastr6ilgife'wfeatUro'-iri separate coats Is tho quite gdnoriatdtifitlon. of ,
three-quarters' and:severi-eIghthslongtha.-Tho-Jew)st-wraps ace- In this style. '
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