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The Pickens sentinel-journal. (Pickens, S.C.) 1909-1911, July 06, 1911, Image 3

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/2012218673/1911-07-06/ed-1/seq-3/

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TIN wardrobes
of the past are
thrown open,
the language
of other days,
the manners,
of other times
hold sway. 'r
quick, eager,
hurrying world of today stands still for one
moment to perform a great and solemn cere
mony, and cream-colored horses perform
the work now done by fiery motor-cars, and
stately walking takes the place of rush and
bustle. Letters commence "We greet you
well," and request in sonorous terms the pres
ence of great people with ancient names, "fur
nished and appointed as Your rank and qual
ity appertaineth," and end with "And so we
bid you most hearty iarewell."
Claims of rank, of past service, of old rights
and privileges pour in. In the midst of quick,
active 'ife, in a mechanical, colorless time,
suddenly, blazing like the pages of an Illumi
nated Missal, come claims of people who as
pire to the titles of the King's Larderer, the
Herbstrewer, the lutler, Carver, Waferer, to
carry up the Courses, to bear the Silver Cup,
to carry the Orb or one of the Sceptres, or
perform some office as Sergeant of the Silver
It is a proof of the powerful charm that ap
peals to all people in dressing ip, in relieving
the dull monotony of this black-garbed day by
the crimson and scarlet of the past.
Even the Dean and Chapter of Westminster
are affected by this appeal. They put in a
claims for, 'among other things, "Six eils of
dark-colored cloth. Ten yards of scarlet. Six
yards of Sarcenet. Two pieces of double
worsted." The.se for the Dean. And the third
part of a Ttin of Wine and Fish according to
the Bounty of His Royal Majesty for the Dean
and Chapte s Repast. Scarlet cloth and
crimson vel t, cups of gold and silver and
all manner o perquisites are claimed by those
holding office.,
A tangle of,- -v begins to unwind slowly;
the Garter E kird the rhird, the white
satin trunk )se of the Elizabethans, the
atrophied re Iains of hoods, of insignia; man
ties swollen ior diminished, crowns and cor
onets of sh1aes set do wn hard and fast by
rule, colors .inalterable, costumes laid down
by law. Notiing is forgotten. The strangest
'mixture of tlgie ages.
In this will be
found echoes of old
sumptuary laws, as,
for example: Ed
ward Ill. 1363._Lfuy,
of ermine and let
tice and embellish
ments of pearls, ex
cepting for a head
- , ~ ~ dress, were forbid
, den to all but Roy
alty, or nobles pos
sessing over' one
thousand pounds a
year. Today the
length of every
train, the arrange
ment of the ermine,
the forbidding of
The Queen in Coronation Regali
pearls in coronets will be found in the orders
for the Coronation. Youtths, for example, must
wear a costutme of black velvet with knicker
bockers, black silk stockings, shtoes wvith steel
buckles, and a glengarrty cap of black velvet,
For the King matny things must be ptrepared.
The ct-own must be alter-ed, the mantle and
Supertunica fitted, scelptres, swords, gir-dles,
spurs must all be got in readiness,
The King atrrives. lie must wvear a kirtle,
or surcoat, of critmsotn velvet with a large
mantle and 1hood of the same, furred with
ermine and bor-dered with rich gold lace, This
is worn over the white underdress and white
stockings of the Garter Robes, On his head
he wears the Cal) of State of purplle velvet
turned up with ermtine. T1ho mantle, of hugo
propor-tions, is held up by a numnber of pages
who wore, on the last occasion, a mnodifled
Georgian coat with big cuffs, rutflles at the
wrist, lacee cravats, shoulder-knots and swords,
From the mnoment of the King's entrance to
his exit the solemn process of dIressing and
undr-essing him in garmuents symbolical of
various virtues goes on.
After he has been Recognized as King and
Anointed, tihe Cap of State, the Mantle and
the Surcoat are removed, For this anointing
an Ampulla and a Spoon for the oil, of gold,
have boon provided, as has also a Pall of
cloth of gold embroidered with eagles and held
over the King's head by four silver supports,
these being held by foutr Knights of the Gar
ter' in thteir robes. After this anointing the
Pall is delivered back to the Lord Chamber
lain, and is by him redelivered to tihe Groom
of the Robes.
The robes worn by the Knights of the Gar
ter are of particular Interest. Originally the
full dress consisted of a tunic, a mantle and a
capuchon of blue woolen cloth, all thmese pow
dotred with garters in gold, the mantle having
,one larger than the rest to enclose a shlield
with the cross of St. George. Tis larger gar
ter and shi~eld still remain. In the time of
Richard the Second the garter
color was in turn violet, white and
blue. In Henry the Fifth's reign
the color changed from white to
scarlet, and back to white. Ini
Henry the Sixth's reign the num
ber of garters on the mantle
Showed the degree of the rank of
the wearer, just as the ermine spots show It
today on the fur of the peers' hoods. It was
an hundred-and-twenty garters for a duke, an
hundred-and-ten for a marquis, ninety for an
earl, and sixty for a knight bachelor. In this
reign the material was changed from cloth to
velvet lined with satin. Henry the Seventh
abolished the powdering of
garters, changed the color to
purple and added the collar.
In the reign of Henry the
Eighth the habit was made
to the fashion of the time
and a flat cap added; the
hood remained, but the chap
eron was worn hung over
the right shoulder and was
called the huinerale. The
color changed to crimson.
Also the jewel called the ./
Lesser George was added to
the collar, or chain, and was
suspended on the
breast by a chain
or riband of
black. At the
present day the
full dress of the
Knights of the
Garter consists
in the mantle,
hood, collar and
surcoat, and
trunks of white
and white hose, WE
shoes and ros
ettes all of gold
spangled gymp,/
with the collar The King, Holding
tied back by big Is Crowned in St
shoulder ros
ettes of ribbon, and the garter round the right
leg under the knee. The mantle is without a
collar and is drawn together at the neck by
long cordons of blue silk ending in big tas
sels of mixed blue silk and gold thread.
The Mantles of other Orders are, for the
Thistle, rich green velvet lined with white.
For the Order of the Bath, rich crimson satin.
The Order of St. Patrick, sky-blue satin. St.
Michael and St. George, Saxon-blue satin.
The King, having been Anointed, seats him
s-l9ft In. King''4mws~r- Chat, then, after the
Knights of the Garter have *j.Asumfled their
seats, he again rises and is invested with two
garments of ecclesiastical signincance, the
Coloblim Sindonis, and the Supertunica. The
first vestment is In shape like a sleeveless
mnonk's frock, or an alb, and is made of fine
wvhite linen with an edging of lace round the
border, and a flounce of lace, nine inches deep),
at the bottom. This v estment is the second
of a priest's Mass vestments, the Hirst being
the Amice, which Kings do not wear.
The Supertunica Is of the nature of a
priest's Dalmatic and the privilege of wearing
it was gr-anted to Abbots, and to Kings andt
Emper'ors. It Is made of cloth of gold and Is
wvoven with the signs of tihe Imiperilal Eagle,
the Palm Blranch, the Rose, the Shamrock and
Thistle. The Rose Is for England, England's
flower dating far beyond the
Tudor- Rose as it is repre
sented, and beyond the York
1st and Lancastrian r-ose,
and having more aninity
with the golden rose Ed
war-d thle First wore in his
- . helmet. The Shanmrock is
that plant used by St. Pat
-- riek to illustr-ate the lesson
of' the Tr-inity to his follow
er-s. And the Thistle is a
reminder of the salvation of thle Scots tso
legend says) from the D~anes, who, walking
barefoot to Sulrprise the enemy, tr'od on the
spikes of Scottish thilstles and, (crying out,
were betr-ayed.
After these have been put on, thle two spurls
are taken from the Altar by the Sub-Dean,
who hands them to the Lord Greai~t Chambller
lain, who, kneeling dlownl, touchles tile lKing's
heels with them.
Then tile Swor-d of State is girt about tihe
King after lhe has reeived it into hIs r-ight
hland. Tisi
sw~or'd Is in
a purple
Afer hye / e
ac abbard. 4
a nd h as - ---'
been e x-\'
hlorted to
do justice -1
wvIth it, he
rises and
is ulngird
ed, and the
noble mn a n
w ho first ,
receivedl it
r'edeems it
from the
where i t - '
placedl, for
the sum of The King Arrives, His
o ne hun
dIred shillings, and then carries it bare during
theO rest of the ceremnony.
The King is then invested1 with the Armilla
or Stole, of cloth of gold. suitbhly embroidered,
and then with tile Impleri~l .\antle, or Pall of
bloth of Gold delivered by the Mas
ter of the Robes; the Lord Great
Chamberlain fastening the clasps of
the Morse that buckles it. This Man
tie is of great length and beauty, and
is significant, as are all mantles frot
Elijah's tnantle onwards to St. Mar
tin, who divided his mantle out of
charity. The mantle completts the ecclesias
tical portion of the King's vestments, being an
exaggerated form of the vope or chasuble
worn by offlelating priests, and remaining in
efligy on the tombs of some kings, notably on
the tomb of Richard the First.
After this the King again seats himself and
receives the Orb into his
right hand, this Orb being a
symbol of the world over
which the rules, and the
Cross to show that his king
dom is Christian.
Then the Archbishop
places the Ruby Ring on the
fourth finger of the King's
hand. It is a Table Ruby,
having the Cross of St.
George cut upon it, and is
the Ensign of Kingly Dig.
- nity. Then the two great
Sceptres are given to the
King after he has put on the
Glove presented to him by
the Lord of the Manor of
the Worksop. The one is
-- : the Sceptre with the Cross,
and the other the Sceptre
with the Dove. The first
into his right hand, support
ed by the Lord of the Manor
of Workson, this being the
Kingly Sceptre, and the oth
er being the Rod
of Equity and
At last, fully
equipped, the
the Two Scepters, King is crowned
Edward's Chair. with St. Ed
ward's Crown of
pure gold encruste(I with jewels. There
are about three hundred diamonds in the
crown, and about three hundred pearls be
sides a quantity of other precious stones. The
great South African diamond, the Cullinan,
which was cut into two parts, is now, the one
part, called the Star of Africa, in the King's
Sceptre, the lesser part being set into the
crown beneath the Black Prince Ruby, a stone
said to have been worn in the Black Prince's
helmet at Crecy and Poictiers. There is,
moreover, the huge oblong sapphire placed in
the crown in 1820 by the-Prince Regent. Also
the two pear-shaped pearls which were worn
as earrings by Queen Elizabeth on her corona
tion in 1558, and were added to the Crown by
King Edward's special order.
After the Coronation, in the language of
the Rtubric, "the people with loud and repeat
ed shouts, cry-: 'God save the King;' and hm
mediately the Peers put on their Coronets:
and the Kings of Arms their Crowns; the
Trumpets sounding, the Dr-ums beating, the
Great Guns of the Tower and the guns in the
Park being shot off."
When the acclamation enses the Arch
bishop pronounces the Exhortation and then
presents the Bible to the King, saying: "Our
Gracious King, we present you with this Book,
the most valuable thing that this world af'
fords. Here is Wisdom. This is the Royal
Law. These are the lively Oracles of God."
The Archbishop now pronounces the Benie
diction and the King goes ito the Theatr-e,
where arec all the Great Oflicers of State, the
two Bishops his Supporters' the Noblemen
car-rying the Swords, the Swvord of State, the
Pointed Sword of Spiritual Jhustice, the Point
edl Sword of Temporal Justice, and the Cur
tana, the blunt-ended Sword of Mer-cy.
The King being then enthroned and the Ex
hortation beginning, ''Stand fi rm and hold
fast'' having beeni said, the Kinug delivers the
Sceptre with the Cross andl tho Sceptre with
the Dove to those noblemen who hear thema,
andl receives the H omnage, flrst of the Ilishtops,
after which the Arclhishop hisses him on t he
left cheek. A fter- wle h conmc those of thle
11lood Iloyal to do the samte, and after that
the Senior of eaich (degree (10 likewise, the
Sentior' of thle Duikes, of the Mar-quesses, the
Earls, the Viscounts atnd the ilarouns. Then
the Printcesses pny I oma~ge and after them
the Peetresses.i
After the
1Homiage is
A c e hama
1/ tion. This
is followed
by theo
A no inting,
- C tr o wuting
a nd En
thle Queen.
:.e King
- and1 Queen
receive the
having tak
en offthieir
crowns, lie
fotre this,
as they
kneel, the
King makes
Train Borne by Pages, his offeritng
of a Pail or
Altar ('loth of ten yat-ds in length offered in a
roll, atnd an Ingot ot gold of a rioundt weight,
Then the Queen ma~kes her offering; of a Pall,
and a Mark weight of gold in like antner as
the Kfing.
The Service being
concluded, His Majesty
is disrobed of His Roy
al imperial Mantle.
and is arrayed in Ils
Royal Robe of Purple
Velvet and receives his
Crown of State, and
the Queen likewise. After which they pass to
the West doer of the Abbey, their Majesties
wearing the'r crowns, the King bearing in his
right hand the Sceptre with the Cross, and in
his left the Orb. and the Queen bearing in her
right hanr her Sceptre with the Cross, and in
her left the Ivory Rod with the Dove.
A glowing, glorious and moving spectacle
which words cannot convey. The blaze and
sparkle of colors and jewels, the sea of crim.
son velvet and white ermine like wave-crests.
The huge Standards of England, Ireland and
Scotland, and the Standard of the Union; the
Eibroidered Cushions for the Crowns and
Rings; the Knights of the Orders in full dress;
the Ileralds with their Tabards and their fan
tastic titles, Unicorn Pursuivant, Portcullis
and Rouge Dragon Pursuivants, and the Kings
of Aris, Garter, Lyon, Clarenceux, Ulster and
Norroy, a host of quaint and curious names
and offices.
Nor is this all. No detail but is carefully
arranged as, for example, this list of what the
Peers and Peeresses must wear whereby their
rank is shown.
For all: A mantle of crimson velvet edged
with miniver. The cape furred with miniver
pure, and powdered with bars or rows of er
mine (i.e., narrow pieces of Islack fiu-) accord
ing to their degree. The use of this fu-, mini
Yetr, or vair, for persons of high degree, is of
very ancient origin, dating fron the time in
the Middle Ages when persons of all ranks
wore hoods of sonie kind of skins. One could
tell in the fourteenth century who were
knights or nobles at a tourniamnent by the min
iver of their hoods. Sable, er-mine, vair and
gris were reserved for the use of the kings
and nobles; other ranks wore squir-el and
lamb, peasants woic badger and cat skins.
The cape worn today o: the Peers' mantle is
the remains of this custom.
Ilarons wear two rows of ermio.
Viscounts weat- two rows and a hial.
Earls wear three rows.
Marquesses wear three rows and a halt.
Dukes wear four rows.
These Robes are worn over full Court
dress, Uniform or Regimentals.
Their Coronets are to be of silver gilt; the
Caps of crimson velvet turned up with ermine,
with a gold tassel on the top; and no jewels
'II ,
The Archbishop Preparing to Crown
the King.
or preciouts stones atre to be set or utsed in the
(-oronets5, otr couniterfeit peat-Is i nsteadl of nllvar
Tihe ('ap of crimsoni velvet and fur once
w~or-n by peers itn i'arliatment Islte sigtn of
thitr right to the ipeerage, the metal (-rowni
showing the dlegtree of tho wearer -4thus:
A I lar oi's Cotron'-t h as otn the rimi six ilv 'or
balls sot at equal distances.
A Viscount's Cor-onet hais sixteen silver
Anm Eatrl's ('oronet has eightt silver haills
raLised onl p)oints, with goldt strawberrty leaves
between the points.
A Mairiuess' Corone t has foiur gold str-aw
berry leaves, and( fotur silve'r boils ait(-tnat ely.
A Dutke's Coronet has eight goldi st rawberry
For all: A mantle of crimson velvet, with
a ('ape furtred with miniver pure, and pow
dered with tows of ermine.
Fot' a tar-oness: The Mantle to be edlged
r-outnd with miniver putre two inches in~
breadlthi, and the train to be thtree feet on the
ground. Tihe ('ape to have twvo rows of ermins.
Fotr a Viscoutntess: The edge of the Matntie
as before; the tr-an to be a yar-d and a qumar-ter
oin the ground.
For a Countess: The edging of fur to ito
three inches in breadth, and the train a yardi
and a half,
For a Marchioness: The edging to be four
inches in breadtht, and the train a yard aid
three- q uart Iers.
Fot- a Dumchess: The edging to be five
inches bro-ad, and the train two yards on ths
ground. Their dIress consists of a Kirtlo of
crlmnson velvet bordered all rotnd, wvtih a nuar
row edging of miniver scalloped in front, plain
other-wis". The Kimrtie opens from thit wai.at
and wideons gradually down to tile gromud. it
may als~o be gathered back in three restmoon.
each tied back with a how oftinsel,
A od dish for
a Luncheon
or Supper.
Brown the con.
tents of a tin of
Libby's Vienna
Sausages in the
frying pan and
serve with baked
Easy to serve
--fine to eat
Look for the Libby
label which means
Libby, McNeill d& Libby
CIAULI Ug. Xnllsiem, hulea Agenty, 109 Broad 8i4,9 New bNorl
Mr. Ientton ilome--Why, where's
the new chambermaid?
M rs. lienton Ilolme--I told her to
dust this morning, and an hour later I
found that she had dusted.
Showed Tact of King.
It was the ardor of the day at a
laite shoot. at Sadringham that when
phelasants should not be shot, and one
oif the guests brought down a hen
whieh fell near King Edward's place
ini the line. Anxious not to hurt the
offender's feelings by an over rebuke,
the king pointed to the corplus delicti
and~ sld: "Alh, (Gurney, what a man
you are for the ladies! "-Life of Ed
ward VII.
Curious That a Tired Preacher Should
Have Such Desire.
A minister speaks of the curious ef
feet. of Grape-Nuts food on himt and
how it has relieved himii.
"You will doubtless understand how
the suffering from Indigestion with
which I usedi to be t roubhled made my
work an almi tost unendu trable burden;
:inid why it. was that aifter my Sabbath
Jut i's had beeni iertormed, sleep was
El ttranger to my 1)1llow till nearly
"I had to bet very careful as to what
I ate, and even with all my care I ex
pierienceed ignMran t physical dist ress
after meals, andi my food never satla.
!ledi me.
"Since I be'gan I the use of Grape.
Nu1ts thei benefits I have derived from
it ar:e very dlefinite, I no longer suffer
'roml 1( in!gest ion, and I began to im
prove~ from thle time Grape-Nuts ap
"I indl that. by eating a dish of this
food after imy Sabbath work Is done,
(anid I always do no now) my nerves
ire qluleted and rent and refreshing
-leep are ensured me.
"'I feel t hat I Could not possibly do
wt ouGrape-Nuts food, now that I
kniow its valuie. It is invariably on our
.able--we feel that we need It to make
the meal complete and our children
will eat Uralie-Nuts when they cannot
be plersuadehid to touch anything else."
Namuo givent by Postum Co., Battle
Creek1 Mic higan.
lteadl the famous booklet, "The Road
to Wellville," in pkgs. "There's a
!Nver rend thme above letter? A new
e1ut'iNfrom time to time. They

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