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7 Once Paris ' Rival; Now Hungry and Cold Something of the Tragedy of Vienna, Told by a Traveler Through That City of Sadness Manchester, ting . I . h., 19JU. Oes to Vienna nowadays with thc feeling kvever bad conditions are, they cannot be k as they are painted All over Europe tlu. dirg I Vienna i sun : tlu- lament of a broken city, th i,f hungr) children, tlu- ceaseless pleading 0f a : less people. The rest of the world stands with the kind oi reverence which makes , from a Kreat grief. It seemi theatrical. link rdone somehow, until one has been there. 1 r( Vienna early in December, when a spell 0 COm 1 warm weather had eased tile tension sihtl hind me, at the end of a two days1 railway Paris debonair, lovely and buoyant, with jur . its healed and the pin pricks of industrial strik- hurting her calm. Vienna is very con- fans, once her rival in gaiety. When you come ' ' from there, she asks yon wistfully how Paris 'king an(l 'l she is laughing again. You have t,, re I) ' Paris i as gay as ever, but you ko on to (ell p aiming Vienna that not Paris or London ,,r ,i' " place is more beautiful than she. Vf 1 first 'lay or two, when the grandeur of Vieni had time to obliterate the more facile im pressi Paris, tin city definitely takes its place in .i- the queen of European capitals. She is almost rwhelmingly beautiful. There is nothing small oi awdry in the design of her. Every building seems l a palace, with art in the finish of each exqun letail I did not see a house that looked cheaply built r garish: even the poorest parts of the city ha a l certain dignity and a purity of line in their construct r Often there is a shop quite an ordinary shop witli wonderful inlaid work over the doorway, or a i monplace dwelling house with its entrance guarded b beautifully carved stone figures. All through the cit) is struck by the love and care that has gone t tin hioning of it. The contrasts in it are tar less ma i d than in London, say, or Paris; there are no abrupt descents in grandeur from important buildings to trivial The Cathedral is a glorious thing, but s,. on a SI .ile. ate half a dozen other churches. The palace ' ihi ex-emperor, the town hall, opera house, and the Mouses of Parliament are splendidly dupli cated i d over again in miniature. Part i the wonder of Vienna is due just now to tin terrible Hon of the city: her beauty is enhanced, a- it w by the tears iu her eyes. All the factories r lack of fuel and raw material, and this makes ,: ity amazingly clean. There is very little '' days, and so the wide Streets seem even Wider tl they are. About a hundred thousand people and many of them are helped by being piifl si ms to sweep the pavements. But issible to walk fifty yards iu Vienna thhoui realizing the tragedy of the city. One learns iciatcd and listless people who pass with ut evei g at one another r speaking, I do not "ink tl ' heard laughter in Vienna streets last De mber. CC it was the gayest city in the world. pit are very poorly dressed, and. with an occasional Hungarian, 1 never saw a "': iring smart or conspicuous clothes. It is form in Vienna to flaunt fur coats or JCWelry far ,.t t....i1.. -li. 1 wL- hniIm m ' uV, l.tvrv .vii until I it is dangerous. Begging is appallingly I and ragged children petition for alms With dreadful, desperate intensity, and 1 I have ever seen anything more terrible "t the mutilated ex-soldiers crouchinc F1 Tiny are everywhere, these broken men "( "(ted bodies and haunted eyes. Even J ' OUgh to draw tiny pensions cannot live ' ,N unpossible to find work. I asked an a n' at! how the people could endure to see '1 fought and suffered for them brought ltLm,s a pass. I , ( 1 find it dreadful." she Mid, "hut some jujj' '! hardened to it now. often I have as afJ a.v discharged soldiers begging for food 9 one morning." Misery Follows Luck of Fuel return 1n , n'utt(' every day in Vienna is the "r odgatherers. The fuel problem is al U tliilr j ' a ute of all, for coal is unobtainable downfo'1! '! '"u,t outside the city are being cut tfo -Jr. ' d Parties of police go out to regulate hajjnlng' ! 1" Plte of them accidents are daily Special t nm,M(' ln the felling of trees, being u ' J jtboul glatS in the window frames, are yet each d . ng back thc Btherera and their wood, foentnd s,rt'ts are a vit dolotOH of men. w 1 an IH " tMmbIinK brokenly under their loads. torii 111,111 iTOVirttj on the pavement, un Nrentj i ' s' nt the burden on her back, and not ,r(b!,n' ;Tom ,lt r I a little bos with thin legs bo '"' T 1 kl of at least a hundred p Hinds J gfc ' ,,; RJl place on a tram have lo walk thc whoL ,ro,n he forests; the others trudge 's tti'.iri' . -, wy, atany k out m the evening, garment prevail i n the st do not ti thin the By MADELINE LIN FORD Spend all night felling and return in time for the day" work. It is tnot ghastly, a most heart-rending thing, to watch these people most of them very old or verj young toiling along with then cruel load's, it reaches just that intensity of tragedy when to look at it seems sacrilege. 1 he fuel shortage is the greatest factor in the misery of life in Vienna. It is the thing that has robbed thc City Oi all its color As result of it. all shops are closed at five o'clock, and the trams stop at eight. The lights m the restaurants are turned out at eight, and places of entertainment are allowed only three hours of electricity. Opera, which is still going bravely on, lasts each night from half past five till half past eight. Every building that one enters is full of thc settled, penetrating chill that comes from a long-standing lack oi heating. The bare Boors of the churches, the hos pitals, and splendid art galleries are so cold that they are exquisitely painful to walk on and one's breath hangs around one like a mist. In the houses of middle class people great porcelain stoves Kit'am like cenotaphs in memory of long-dead fires, and the owners wear indoors just the same amount of clothing, even to gloves, that they wear in the street, it i- practically impossible to obtain enough hot water for a bath. When I was m Vienna I was told that a return of tin bitter weather that had ravaged tin city in November would mean the death of thousands of 1 If I1 I IM UNFORD, a votte woman of 1 24, has just made a journey to investigate the distress in ienna and Voland. I he Manchester (,uardian, of Man hester, i.nland, n 1 1 fitly raised a fund for the relief of the suffer ers in the war area, and trusted its funds to The H ar I i, tints Relief Committee of the f riends. and Miss f in ford, of the (iuardian staff, went to msfitet and deserihe eonditions. She has made this speeial report for The Dearborn Independent. people. On one or two days during my stay a cruel wind swept tip the Street! and the sky looked heaw with snow, and on thes,- days the city seemed quieter than ever and the faces of the people the thin, thin people with just one layer of cotton garment over their limbs were haunted with fear. All Are Hungry The other rcat terror of Vienna is starvation. The lost of living there is ten times the pre-war rate as regards the cheaper articles and higher still iu the ease of the others. Bread costs five kronen for the ration loaf of two pounds, unrationed bread is very much dearer. A piece ot bad. dark brown margarine, about the sie of a small cup, COStS six kronen. And besides being expensive, all food is terribly scarce. I could not even in the restaurants get a reall good and satisfying meal, and at the present rate of exchange with ''' kronen to the English pound, instead of pr wai twent) four I could afford the most high!) priced dishes while the Viennese had to choose cheap concoctions of vege tables, and only one course of them. The suar ra tion for AugUSt had just been distributed, and I often -aw queues "t women waiting outside sweetshops in the hope ot buying sweets as a substitute. The only other queues in ienna are the lines of people waiting tor the itee OT eheap meals of soup which are given b charitable organisations and are in most eases the only food that the) get in the day. In Warsaw one can hardly walk along the pavements tor the people lined up outside shops; iu Vienna there is nothing to wait for. The greatest sufferer i of all in Vienna are the chil- dren, It is estimated that the) are two vears behind the normal development of childhood and hundreds of them are hopelessly diseased and crippled by privation I never saw one that was rosy, and I never law one playing or running. In every ease when I asked the ae of a child it has proved to be much older than I expected. They are suffering from the lack of all the necessities ot health. There is a milk ration for babies under twelve months; after that ae there is nothing at all tor them but the horrible, ill -nourishing food that serves for adults. I do not think that anyone who has not witnessed it can imagine the utter horror of watch ing, as I did over and over again, a tiny, emaciated baby drink spmaeh SOup through a feeding bottle and of knowing that on that diet alone the bab) had to fighi its way to maturity and health. At hast eighty per cent ot the children in Vienna are. as a result of under feeding, in an advanced stage of rickets; a very lanc percentage of them will never be able to walk ll this is more terrible because Vienna ran provide n remedies tor them. There l- a complete lack of all drugs and hospital sup. lies. The morning I arrived in Vienna I saw a baby having an operation to its head without an anaesthetic. That was in a wonderfully well organized clinic, yet each small patient, infectious or not. had to be laid on the same sheet and there were no drugs to spare for this poor little mite with its head all covered with boil from unsuitable feeding. In one "rnhanaue whieh I iit. il tUm . ... i i children I had ever seen were just starting their only meal in the day a bowl of thin soup and a small T)jecc oi black bread. They wore one cotton garment each, and their hands were scarred with chilblains. In an other the ingenuity that manages to provide a weekly hath for thirty children cannot supply more than one towel for all of them. Hy U ay of Relief 1 he only way to endure a visit to this pale and desolate city is to concentrate one's attention on what i being done to alleviate her misery. The two out standing channels of help are the American feeding scheme inaugurated b) Mr. Hoover which gives a mid day meal each noon to over a hundred thousand school children, and the Relief Mission or Society of Friends. It was the work of the latter, a body of British and Vmerkan workers, which I went t Vienna to see. Most of the efforts of the Friends' Relief Mission are directed toward the unhappy babies between one and five years of age, who have lot their milk ra tion and are not yet old enough to benefit by the benevolence of Mr. Hoover. This time is the most critical of all m the lives of Vienna children. The Mission's help reaches them through the infant wel fare centers, of which there are a great number in ienna. They are better equipped and organized than any that I have seen in England, but just now they are absolutely destitute of material of all kinds. Some that I visited were s() cod that, in my thick outdoor clothes. I felt chilled through hi them and all round me little naked babies were waiting their turn to be weighed To these places the Mission sells for below cost price or gives outright if the institution i particularly poor fuel, milk, clothes, cocoa, drills and fresh butter tor tuberculous children. To one of them titty small chil dren are brought each morning for a drink ot cocoa supplied by the Mission, and ery well made with con densed milk. It is tin only food that these babies Met. To watch them drinking it with an intense eager ness which one never sees in normal children at this ae when toocis an object of less interest than at anv other period of childhood was one of the prettiest and saddest things 1 saw. Much the same kind of relief is given to hospitals and maternity homes. Just before I left Vienna the Friends' Mission bad started a new scheme for helping middle class people. While the pa) of workmen has increased lix or seven hundred per cent, the salaries of professional people have increased only about two or three or very occasionally four hundred per cent, and hundreds of men and women are living on pensions or small unearned incomes which have not risen at all. To the last there is practically no alternative other than a slow death by starvation or a tpiick one by suicide. They are the most difficult classes ,,t all to reach with help, more difficult perhaps in proud, aristocratic Vienna than anywhere else, but the Mission is trying to miKc one of their problems b starting the sale of clothes to them Teachers were the tirst to he helped in this ua On Sunday before Christinas Da) I watched a sale ot clothes to professional men and women at prices which wet, about a quarter of tlu sums charged for them in shops, and in many uses Unobtainable in the ordman waj Tin i were all either thus sent from England and America where kind working parties had madi them or else had been made in the work rooms opened m ienna by the Mission for tin purpose of Kiun; employment to poor women Tor the Vien nese people the Krietids' Relief UbsioTi has Softened both the bitterness of their defeat and the hardness of their suffering