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Waterloo No Longer Tourists' Goal; Ypres Visited- By EDWARD SGHULER pP Waterloo, June (By Mail). WATERLOO as an historic and interesting site has been dethroned by Ypres. This battle field of the war of the nations with its fa mous Cloth Hall, or rather what is left of it, is at tracting American, English and other tourists, and even Belgian! who have not yet seen Waterloo. The result is incidentally some discontentment on the part of those who at Waterloo are more or less dependent on visitors for their daily bread. To tome of them it has been a financial Waterloo. The guides, who Speak English and who have told hundreds of tourists how Napoleon met his defeat and everything connected with it, have dwindled in numbers. They have gone elsewhere, to Ypres or to Flanders, prepared to tell Americans and other visitors how the Prussians of a century later there met their Waterloo. The restaurant and saloon keepers at Waterloo, from their windows, cast dis consolate looks at the big Belgian lion on the butte near-by showing his teeth to the then vanquished but the now victorious France. They are wondering: when Irs Amcricains arc coming ; the English, they come no more, say these people, and for lis Bilffii la has (yonder) Ypres, e'est plus intcrcssant. It was raining when a representative of The DBAI horn Indkpkndent visited Waterloo, the rain well known to the doughboy who saw service overseas, and doubtless not unlike the kind at the time of the famous battle. It was Sunday but the peasants in the neigh borhood were at their tasks, as were the couple who are now keeping the famous Hougomont farm which is owned by a Brussels nobleman. From here cows could be seen grazing on the slopes of the monument of the lion. The visitor was given an unduly cordial welcome it had been long since les Amcricains had come and Us A;:;;!ais had been equally scarce. The register in the chapel of Hougomont farm confirmed this. A few Englishmen and Americans visited Hougomont since the Great War. The number before then was large. On the register were noted the names of William Stev enson and wife, 4759 Lake Park avenue, Chicago, tin date of their visit being July 22, 1914, which date marked the opening phase in the World War. Th( keepers showed the caller the interesting parts of the farm and expressed the opinion that from a tourist standpoint Hougomont farm and Waterloo had seen their best days. Several other shopkeepers were nclined to be of a different opinion and while some of them said that Flanders surely would draw many visitors, Waterloo would always get its share. The English have always been partial to Waterloo a the preponderance of names on the register in the chapel of Hougomont farm testifies, but the persons visiting Waterloo compared with Ypres now are few. This is only natural in view of the fact that thousands of Englishmen are buried there, and furthermore England considers ypres as a place where she has some rights although this attitude is displeasing to some of the Belgians located there. It can be understood that when a people has made such a sacrifice in men to check the German offensive the vicinity should be for them a sacred one. The Ypres residents who were forced to quitheir city and have come back to rt build their destroyed homes are discontented, feeling that the city belongs to them and that they alone have the right to say how it shall be r built. The British desired that the center of the city be conserved in its present state which they already call a "zone of quietude," that the ruins of the Cloth Hall and the Church of St. Martin and the ensemble of the ruined houses be left as they are. The question resolved itself into a growing con troversy until the government finally decided to con serve and inclose the ruins of the Cloth Hall, the St. Martin Church, and so on, thus giving satisfaction to the English who had in the meantime strengthened their influence in the matter by buying up all the property they could at Ypres and vicinity. One of the famous mansions of Brussels, whose proprietor, the Marquise d'Assche, was a famous beauty at the time of Waterloo and whose home was the Belle Alliance, farm on the road of Chat leroi, famous hv the meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the battle. The Lion Mountain hns been erected on the spot where the Prince of Orange, afterward king of Pays-Bas, was wound ed. The full forms a cone 125 feet high (up to the base of the lion). It has a circumference of 1,612 feet at the base. Begun in 1K24, it was finished two years later, paid for by the Allies. Below The Belgian Monument at Waterloo. rendezvous of the Allied sovereigns and the Czar Alex ander, is about to disappear under the pick of the house wrecker. The Marquise has left some curious memoirs of the time. Like OlOSt of the grandes dame- of tin old regime she wrote her recollections and kept the cult of the famous nun she had received in the privacy of her salons and these memoirs today will do much toward knowing and understanding this epoch. Wellington was a faithful friend of the Marquise and seldom a day passed that he did not go to the man sion of the Marquise d'Assche where high society al ways was to be found, as well as foreigners of dis tinction. Among the recollections which the Marquise left, one may be recalled. She had attended the famous ball organized by the Duke of Richmond where Wellington learned of the startling arrival of Napoleon. On the day of Water loo, while the cannon was roaring, impatient to have immediate news, she went in a coach, accompanied by the Prussian minister, along the road to Waterloo. She had seen the armies in rout, the frightful mass of wounded, regiments without arms fleeing before Bulow. On her return to Brr.el she found m the vesti bule of her home the first wounded who had been brought there, all bloody, among them Captain Brown, General Alton and the Marquis of Anglesey, whose leg had been amputated The Marquise had danced with the latter at the famous ball. Seeing him lying livid on the stretcher, she was greatly moved. Tears were in her eyes. The Marquis, with a sickly smile, sought to reassure her and said: "Well, Marquise, I cannot dance with you now except with a wooden leg." ifl jEhI Ha r 1 tBiS jig . gS 9h2 IPsmHi America's Oldest Church SWT A FE, NEW MEXICO, next to St. Augustine has the honor of being the oldest city of the United States, excepting, of course, the prehistoric cliff dwellings. But in the matter of churches Santa Fe takes first place with her hjlcsia dc San Miguel (Church of Saint Michael) built by Spanish priests about 1605. Inside the building are sacred paintings from the brushes of the Spanish masters. Although used each Sunday for services, the Church of San Miguel is principally a Mecca for tourists who pay their quarter for a glimpse of old Spain transplanted to our own country before the landing of the Pilgrims. Money thus taken in is used for the relief of the poor.